Diagnose Hard Start / No Start Chevy 305 Tuned Port Injection OBD1 Computer Control -
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- Your '80s to early '90s General Motors (GM) OBD-1 car won't start or is hard to start and you can't find anyone to work on it. What do you need to diagnose and repair it? I will explain the basic concepts using my 305 Tuned Port Injection (TPI) 3rd Gen Camaro IROC-Z. I will go though the tools and service information and then show the HEI ignition components ( cap / rotor / wires / ignition control module / pickup and discuss how they might fail. These basic techniques apply to Chevrolet, Buick, Cadillac, Oldsmobile and Pontiac cars with 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder or V8 engines. I will go through the Tuned Port Injection in depth walking through the trouble trees. and discuss some of the differences with computer controlled carburetors and throttle body injection (TBI). Each GM model will have its own specific details because they all have slightly different sensors and actuators.
DISCLAIMER: In my videos, I provide demonstrations, suggestions, and opinions on techniques, methods, and materials for various projects. While I try to be sure that what I share is accurate, there are no guarantees, expressed or implied, that my information is correct and will work for you. If you wish to use any of this information, you must check and verify that it is appropriate for your use - use it at your risk. Do-it-yourself projects are variable and there are risks in conducting them.
You're a godsend, my guy. There aren't any other channels on UA-cam that goes into proper details on the Tuned port injection-system and how it works. I think people are scared of what they don't understand, which is a plausible reason why so many people did a carb-conversion before. Or LS-swaps.
Loving these videos, they are a joy to watch early in the mornings with the first coffee of the day. Makes the noggin' thinking and going. Have a great day!
Thank you, glad that you enjoy them. I agree with you that they can scare people off. When I first looked at the tuned port package, it was a little intimidating, even with my past experience. But once you get down to the basic systems, it is actually easier in some ways than the carbs. The service manuals are a big help to the understanding.
Great confirming information. My 87 has very easy hand usable release wires on the injectors. Guess they upgraded the design. Can't wait for the next video! Thanks
On my '85, I tried everything to find an easy release mechanism. I'm glad they found a better connector.
I do have a couple of follow-ups in the works that I hope will help. A fair bit of editing and data crunching required, so it will take a little time. One is AIR system related and one has extensive scan tool data from cold start.
👍 Great!
I have to say thanks for these videos. I have owned a 1982 trans am since 1989 and your info is still useful to a simpler lg4 e4me set up that someone like myself has.
You're welcome. I was hoping that they would help with other engine combinations, because the general principles are very similar.
Thank you for taking the time to do these vids. They have helped me tremendously.
You are very welcome
Baby is waking up
Subbed!
I am glad I found your channel while searching YT for some info. I have an '89 350 TPI in a Formula Firebird. I used to do a ton of trouble shooting and repairs and mod's on this car that I have owned since 1993. But I stopped working on it around 20 years ago because A) it needed nothing and ran great and B) because I got injured pretty bad and that made it difficult to work on it.
This car got relegated to garage queen and I would take it out for a spin around once a month. Or to the ever lasting smog checks in Kalifornia. But around 3 years ago due to family illness I stopped everything. The car just sat, abandoned in the garage. Well, around 2 or 3 months ago I decided to get it going again. Of course the battery was stone dead. I tried jumping it with one of those "power bank" things (what a joke) and it barely cranked before it killed it. Next I tried on of my lithium battery's and it did crank a bit, but too much for the battery and within seconds it also got killed. The cranking was so slow the engine would not light. So lastly I got my truck and 30' of jumper cable and connected that and tried to start it. It cranked but would not light off. Fuel pressure good at 40 psi. I am wondering if I damaged an electrical device from the heavy current draw on those batteries. It has been so many years since I worked on this car, I have forgotten everything. And being disabled now, I know it will be a bear trying to crawl under the dash for the OBD and fuse panels, etc. But I am determined to get her going again. I will buy a new battery and go from there. I thank you for making this and other videos on the TPI system and I think they will be very helpful to jog my memory and also to learn new things. Cheers!
Very well done videos thank you keep it up wish you could help with my sons 87 gta 😢
This made me chuckle, my 83 Z28 had an "electric" CPU controlled Rochester 4 Barrel, and actually it worked really well. Course the 6.0 LS now is much better. FYI. You can actually rent a set of Noid lights from Advance Auto parts.
I had one of the full size '85 Buicks with the 4 barrel V8 and it ran very well with the electronic carb. Thanks for the tip about Noid lights. I hadn't thought about renting them. I've done that a few times with Autozone and it's a good program.
Would love to see a video on how to most effectively diagnose an intermittant missfire in a TPI system.
Have you seen this one yet? It is a general diagnostic that may help. Let me know if you have, and provide some detail on your issue.
ua-cam.com/video/3j7R-EORcVU/v-deo.html
@@bitsofwisdom460
I did watch that one and it was very good. I have a shop manual and a good multimeter for my 89 IROC 5.7L. Issue is that I'm getting a horrible missfire only after the engine is hot, has been shut off for a period of time, and then restarted while still warm. Sometimes it is accompanied by a no crank situation. The car has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and ignition coil. I recently replaced the O2 sensor as well. I think I just need to roll up my sleeves and dig in to following the troubleshooting trees.
Love your videos. Great to see some dedicated TPI content.
@@sauldood3413 Yes, working the trouble trees can help. No crank is likely a separate issue. It could be a starter motor or solenoid that is failing when hot or something in the power feeds. Starts on a hot soak can have a number of causes. Just a couple of thoughts. It could be an ignition module. Also, i would look at the fuel system and evap / purge system. I had issues with that when the tank was not venting properly through the purge valve. You could also have a fuel pressure issue where something is causing low pressure on the restart. The injectors depend on good stable fuel pressure.
@@bitsofwisdom460 Thanks! I'll focus on those areas first.
Well, I found a problem with fuel pressure. It bleeds off very quickly after the 2 second prime. Pinching off the return hose stops the loss so it looks like a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Not sure if this is causing my missfire on warm starts but it is definitely an issue. Parts are ordered and fingers are crossed. Thanks for your help and your great videos. I also ordered the OTC version of your Actron scanner thanks to your other video.
Im having issues getting my 5.7 tpi fuel injected z28 camaro running and got spark and fuel pump come on and getting fuel but wont run only on starting fueled and i got power to the injecters i have checked everything im lost at this point
Remember that the fuel system needs to maintain after a start. When you crank, there is an extra rich cold start mixture that drop off when the engine starts. Watch to see if you're maintaining fuel pressure after it fires. Then you may need scan tool or ALDL cable to monitor parameters. I don't know your year. If it's early with MAF system you need to be sure mass air flow system is working correctly. If it is a later car (90-92?) you have speed density system and the MAP sensors and so forth must he correct. Remember that OBD1 diagnostics are not as sensitive and sensors can be off without setting codes. Be sure to check my other videos on diagnostics as I tried to to walk through the trouble trees and point out what to look for.
What manual is that? would like to purchase one.
The manual that I have is a loose leaf version that I bought on eBay. The loose leaf is often a dealer manual that can get mid year updates. There are also bound versions available. One source that I would suggest is books4cars.com. I know the owner, he once worked with me, and left to build this business specializing in service manuals.
I'm taking off my egr what do u recommend
I don't recommend it. EGR does help clean the air, and in most cases simply removing or disabling the EGR will reduce your engine performance and increase fuel usage. The reason is that EGR reduces combustion temperatures and allows more spark timing than is otherwise possible. On engines with electronic spark timing, the knock sensor will significantly limit timing and while the logic is complex, the net effect will be lower spark timing than optimum because the knock signal causes more retard when the knock is encountered and it takes time for the spark to be advanced again. On engines with mechanical / vacuum advance, the engine will likely knock. If the engine is for off road use and the spark timing curves are completely re-calibrated, it is possible to compensate for EGR being removed, but for street use, I don't see a benefit.