Parts used in this video available on Amazon YITAMOTOR Led Light Bar: amzn.to/3aAwVWF Quentacy 19mm 3/4" Metal Latching Pushbutton Switch: amzn.to/3lLiSEh The URLs above are affiliate links. If you purchase a product via these links, the channel will receive a small commission. Thank you for your support.
New subscriber. Initial impression is, yea, I like this guy! He knows his stuff, considers multiple solutions to issues, and MAN, did I get some chuckles outta this video!!👍🏻🤣 Looking forward to checking out some your other content! Thanks for a great video! The welded nut I suspect is intended for exactly the use you found! My Kioti had them on both sides and came standard with bolts and a second nut to lock it in place. It’s a shame your orange 🍊 tractor didn’t provide both sides and bolts…but at least they set it up for you!
The night test caught me by surprise. Good one! Looks like a useful set of lights. Good job. Nice trees, too. I'm hoping ours will look that good in 6 or 7 years. Take care!
Tip: On the ROPS, you can use the BX series tightening knob (same thread) to stop the rattles and no need for a wrench. Kubota Part # 53721-61533 Rail Clamp
They actually have some T type screws at Kubota that you put into those screw holes that keeps your ROPs from banging around. I heard about them on UA-cam from another person, but forgot to get some installed when I bought my Kubota yesterday.
@@thecountrylivingproject3263 Putting more Lights on Lawn mower tractor,... ..... Will it drain Battery Faster.... ???? Since there's no Alternator in the mover...
You what might work and be stronger and last longer than zip ties? SS hose clamps, they can usually be bent to go around squares and clamp things and they're pretty thin for clearance.
Thanks for the great video. Tie wrapping the light to the rop was pure genius. That way you don't scratch the rop and expose it to rusting. One question I have is, "can you rotate the light bar to aim behind the tractor in case you have a tractor with a backhoe"? Thanks.
You could probably get another inch or so headroom if you redrill the Light bracket. You could have used push on connectors instead of the socket to give you more room if needed. Nice install, I have to do it next spring.
So far no problems with the height, but I haven't tried it while wearing a winter hat. It may turn out that a hat makes all the difference and I'll need to do as you suggested and drill new holes a little higher up on the brackets.
The Welded Nut on the ROPS is in fact designed for a bolt to go through to take out the ROPS rattle. Most units ship with the bolt installed. you assumed correctly.
@@thecountrylivingproject3263 The part number for the Clamp Rail Cover is 53721-61533. They come standard on the BX series. www.messicks.com/part/53721-61533/clamp-rail-cove
The only thing I would change if I were to do it over again would be to run the wire inside the ROPS. There is a factory hole in the middle of the top where probably I could fish the power wire though all the way down where the ROPS terminate under the fender.
Hose clamps would probably work quite well. I'm surprised I didn't think of that as I've probably used hose clamps on more non-hose things than on actual hoses. Probably most recently while constructing a bucket level indicator.
Per my testing on the light bar in the video it was only pulling a little over 2 amps. My guess is that the manufacturer overstates the power output/wattage in their listing. Kinda like the mileage you get on your car is never the mileage they claim on the window sticker.
@@thecountrylivingproject3263 Thankyou for the quick reply. That seems grossly overstated, but as long as it works, I'm good with it. I purchased one to try out. Do you happen to know what size/gauge those bullet connectors are on work light wiring on the Kubota tractor? I could not find it in my manual.
I am currently working on getting my derelict, commercially sized irrigation system up and running, so no fire hoses right now. But I do have a Katana. Good luck with your light bar.
The wiring diagram comes with the switch but it is a multi-generation photocopy and difficult to read. Fortunately, the page on Amazon where the switch is listed includes a very clear diagram in color that you can click on and download and/or print yourself. That downloadable diagram shows everything from the power source to the switch to the light bar. If you have trouble downloading that diagram let me know and I can email it to you. If you are going to use the work light connections under the fender you'll also need 4mm bullet connectors, 1 male and 1 female (or cut the connectors off the tractor and pigtail the wires instead).
Good catch on the amps etc, what the what? I did HVAC for a career and we found a lot of discrepancies from Asian to American translation in directions, some of them were horrible. Volts x Amps = watts, Watts -: Volts = amps, 5 amps at 12volts = 60 watts , what you did was perfect, power it up and test the actual, the rating on products for amps is always top, max peak, real world is less and you want to be under that especially for motors, so if a motor says it's rated at 5amps that means maxed out fully loaded over that damage starts to occur, usually over heating in the windings.
Should have used the wiring and switch harbor freight has 95 lbs magnets that do a great job or use the square u bolts from ace to hold brackets. Factory light can upgrade to led and would be a lot bettet
Wiring harness not needed. The light bar only pulls 2 amps (6:08) so no need for a relay. That would just add unnecessary complexity. U-Bolts wouldn't work for my application as explained at 7:00. I considered the HF magnet approach but explained why I didn't at 7:43.
So what would happen if you just plug the light directly into those factory pigtails on the tractor. Mine has those but I didn't even know about them until I already wired my light
The factory auxiliary light leads are powered when the key is turned on, which is why I needed to add a separate switch between the pigtails and the light bar.
I didn't use the relay. The light bar only pulls 2 amps (24 to 28 watts depending on battery voltage) so I hooked it directly to the rear aux work light connections through a separate switch that is rated for 5 amps.
Great video, was in a situation last night in which I realized how inadequate the stock lights can be - how are the zip ties holding up? I would be afraid my overgrowth would snag and rip some of the cabling or the zip ties would fail and require me to use hard hats on the tractor :) Ps- great trees!
The zip ties are quite large so they are holding up well. Nothing that I've driven through or under have any chance of pulling them off. There is actually a factory hole in the front of the ROPS on top. You could run the wires into that hole and thus run the wires inside the ROPS where they exit underneath the fender. No need for a hard hat!
Thanks for taking the time to video your light install a while back. It looks like it has been about a year now, I'd love to hear your thoughts now that you have some seat-time.. 1) How are the white zip ties holding up? 2) How do you like the switch location you chose? (I'm looking at identical switches!) 3) What, if anything, would you do different if you were to do it again? I want to add both front and rear lights either with separate switches or waterproof rotary switch (if I can find one). I will be doing a lot of snow blowing this winter and auxiliary lights are a necessity. I may even have to add an amber flash bar, I hope not. We'll see what the local authorities say... Anyway, I really enjoyed your video, the play acting (I hope ;) ) and am a new subscriber! I'm looking forward to seeing what else is on your channel!
Parts used in this video available on Amazon
YITAMOTOR Led Light Bar: amzn.to/3aAwVWF
Quentacy 19mm 3/4" Metal Latching Pushbutton Switch: amzn.to/3lLiSEh
The URLs above are affiliate links. If you purchase a product via these links, the channel will receive a small commission. Thank you for your support.
I love the humour at 15:22 ... good thing you had lights
Thank you for making this! Your experiences will really help me on my B2301!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome touch with the people running across, loved it!!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for your comment.
Nice video.
The 2 kids being chased by the sword wielding limping zombie made me chuckle.
That's Chet, our resident farm psycho. He shows up randomly in a couple of my videos. Nice guy.
New subscriber. Initial impression is, yea, I like this guy! He knows his stuff, considers multiple solutions to issues, and MAN, did I get some chuckles outta this video!!👍🏻🤣
Looking forward to checking out some your other content! Thanks for a great video!
The welded nut I suspect is intended for exactly the use you found! My Kioti had them on both sides and came standard with bolts and a second nut to lock it in place. It’s a shame your orange 🍊 tractor didn’t provide both sides and bolts…but at least they set it up for you!
The night test caught me by surprise. Good one! Looks like a useful set of lights. Good job. Nice trees, too. I'm hoping ours will look that good in 6 or 7 years. Take care!
Good luck with your trees. I'll be following their progress on your channel.
Tip: On the ROPS, you can use the BX series tightening knob (same thread) to stop the rattles and no need for a wrench. Kubota Part # 53721-61533 Rail Clamp
Excellent. Thanks for the tip.
They actually have some T type screws at Kubota that you put into those screw holes that keeps your ROPs from banging around. I heard about them on UA-cam from another person, but forgot to get some installed when I bought my Kubota yesterday.
Finished my install using all of your suggestions and links. Works perfectly. Thanks for the video!
Excellent! Reading that totally made my day.
You gave me a good idea about the zip ties
nice job. Looks great.
Looking to do something similar for my Kubota L2501
Great video! Better keep those lights off! Those monsters came out when the lights were on.
Oh wow, that actually scared me when you turned the light on and there were people in the woods 😂! Please make more videos man, I love them!
Sure thing.
@@thecountrylivingproject3263 Putting more Lights on Lawn mower tractor,...
..... Will it drain Battery Faster.... ???? Since there's no Alternator in the mover...
You what might work and be stronger and last longer than zip ties? SS hose clamps, they can usually be bent to go around squares and clamp things and they're pretty thin for clearance.
Nice Christine soundbite in the beginning
Thanks. I thought it was most appropriate. Also cool that this comment came from somebody with username of horror fan. Love it!
Drill holes towards the base of the brackets...thus raising the light an inch or so and helping keep the dome from casting shadows!
Thanks for the great video. Tie wrapping the light to the rop was pure genius. That way you don't scratch the rop and expose it to rusting. One question I have is, "can you rotate the light bar to aim behind the tractor in case you have a tractor with a backhoe"? Thanks.
Yes, that can be rotated by loosening the mounting screws on each end of the bracket.
Drill and Tap your ROPs! UA-camrs be Damned!
I'll give that comment a thumbs up.
You could probably get another inch or so headroom if you redrill the Light bracket.
You could have used push on connectors instead of the socket to give you more room if needed. Nice install, I have to do it next spring.
So far no problems with the height, but I haven't tried it while wearing a winter hat. It may turn out that a hat makes all the difference and I'll need to do as you suggested and drill new holes a little higher up on the brackets.
@@thecountrylivingproject3263
Do forget to use flame retardant hairspray while wearing a winter hat up close to your light bar. 🤪
The Welded Nut on the ROPS is in fact designed for a bolt to go through to take out the ROPS rattle. Most units ship with the bolt installed. you assumed correctly.
Thanks for the confirmation. That's another item to add to my list of things my Kubota dealer missed.
@@thecountrylivingproject3263 The part number for the Clamp Rail Cover is 53721-61533. They come standard on the BX series. www.messicks.com/part/53721-61533/clamp-rail-cove
Not going to lie. This made me laugh my ass off. Great video
Thanks for watching.
@@thecountrylivingproject3263 Will the Lawn mower tractor drain Battery power Faster....????
Thank you for this video! How has the been working for you? Anything you would have done different? Any other comments or suggestions?
The only thing I would change if I were to do it over again would be to run the wire inside the ROPS. There is a factory hole in the middle of the top where probably I could fish the power wire though all the way down where the ROPS terminate under the fender.
Nice work. Subscribed.
Thanks for the sub!
Just another thought, screw clamps (hose clamps)instead of zip ties.
Hose clamps would probably work quite well. I'm surprised I didn't think of that as I've probably used hose clamps on more non-hose things than on actual hoses. Probably most recently while constructing a bucket level indicator.
I’m confused. The link you provided for the light is rated at 72W. That should be drawing 6 amps at 12 volts. How is this light not blowing a fuse?
Per my testing on the light bar in the video it was only pulling a little over 2 amps. My guess is that the manufacturer overstates the power output/wattage in their listing. Kinda like the mileage you get on your car is never the mileage they claim on the window sticker.
@@thecountrylivingproject3263 Thankyou for the quick reply. That seems grossly overstated, but as long as it works, I'm good with it. I purchased one to try out. Do you happen to know what size/gauge those bullet connectors are on work light wiring on the Kubota tractor? I could not find it in my manual.
@@michaelsullivan1216 I'm 99% sure they are 4mm.
Great video, I'm Curious if the lights are still doing good after a couple of years of use. They seem to have gotten some bad reviews lately.
I don't need them too often, but when I do they are still working perfectly.
Looks like you need more than a light bar. Maybe a fire hose to ward off the farm zombies. Thanks for the video. I am going to do a light bar tonight.
I am currently working on getting my derelict, commercially sized irrigation system up and running, so no fire hoses right now. But I do have a Katana. Good luck with your light bar.
There is a lot going on in this farm lol Nice video.
Yes, I've been told that strange things are afoot out here. Personally, I haven't seen anything peculiar.
Do you happen to have a wiring diagram for that switch or can you show more details on how you connected the wiring, I'm ordering those parts..
The wiring diagram comes with the switch but it is a multi-generation photocopy and difficult to read. Fortunately, the page on Amazon where the switch is listed includes a very clear diagram in color that you can click on and download and/or print yourself.
That downloadable diagram shows everything from the power source to the switch to the light bar. If you have trouble downloading that diagram let me know and I can email it to you.
If you are going to use the work light connections under the fender you'll also need 4mm bullet connectors, 1 male and 1 female (or cut the connectors off the tractor and pigtail the wires instead).
Good catch on the amps etc, what the what? I did HVAC for a career and we found a lot of discrepancies from Asian to American translation in directions, some of them were horrible. Volts x Amps = watts, Watts -: Volts = amps, 5 amps at 12volts = 60 watts , what you did was perfect, power it up and test the actual, the rating on products for amps is always top, max peak, real world is less and you want to be under that especially for motors, so if a motor says it's rated at 5amps that means maxed out fully loaded over that damage starts to occur, usually over heating in the windings.
Should have used the wiring and switch harbor freight has 95 lbs magnets that do a great job or use the square u bolts from ace to hold brackets. Factory light can upgrade to led and would be a lot bettet
Wiring harness not needed. The light bar only pulls 2 amps (6:08) so no need for a relay. That would just add unnecessary complexity. U-Bolts wouldn't work for my application as explained at 7:00. I considered the HF magnet approach but explained why I didn't at 7:43.
So what would happen if you just plug the light directly into those factory pigtails on the tractor. Mine has those but I didn't even know about them until I already wired my light
The factory auxiliary light leads are powered when the key is turned on, which is why I needed to add a separate switch between the pigtails and the light bar.
@@thecountrylivingproject3263 oh I see. Ill keep that in mind. Thanks for the reply.
did you end up using the relay or eliminating it?
I didn't use the relay. The light bar only pulls 2 amps (24 to 28 watts depending on battery voltage) so I hooked it directly to the rear aux work light connections through a separate switch that is rated for 5 amps.
Green typically is 30 amp
Waz that video taken on Friday 13th? I thought I SAW Jason!!!
Actually that's Chet, our resident farm psycho. 2nd cousin twice removed from Jason.
Great video, was in a situation last night in which I realized how inadequate the stock lights can be - how are the zip ties holding up? I would be afraid my overgrowth would snag and rip some of the cabling or the zip ties would fail and require me to use hard hats on the tractor :)
Ps- great trees!
The zip ties are quite large so they are holding up well. Nothing that I've driven through or under have any chance of pulling them off. There is actually a factory hole in the front of the ROPS on top. You could run the wires into that hole and thus run the wires inside the ROPS where they exit underneath the fender. No need for a hard hat!
Thanks for taking the time to video your light install a while back. It looks like it has been about a year now, I'd love to hear your thoughts now that you have some seat-time..
1) How are the white zip ties holding up?
2) How do you like the switch location you chose? (I'm looking at identical switches!)
3) What, if anything, would you do different if you were to do it again?
I want to add both front and rear lights either with separate switches or waterproof rotary switch (if I can find one). I will be doing a lot of snow blowing this winter and auxiliary lights are a necessity. I may even have to add an amber flash bar, I hope not. We'll see what the local authorities say...
Anyway, I really enjoyed your video, the play acting (I hope ;) ) and am a new subscriber! I'm looking forward to seeing what else is on your channel!
Internet is a Terrible place.. Drill those holes. It wont make a difference in a rollover. If it ever happens.
Someone fell out in front
Would have been better if didn’t have a kubota