I see where you are going, except I did not do it to gain fuel mileage. Any fuel mileage gain was just a bonus. I did it so that I could run a full time locker in the front axle for off road, and unlock the hubs and still drive it daily. And now if I break an axle, I can just unlock the hubs and limp it home in 2wd without grinding everything in the front axle together like the factory setup.
Less wear on front driveshaft, and able to use a spartan locker in the front and still daily drive it with the Hubs unlocked and in 2wd nothing is spinning. That and very slightly better mileage.
@@ksenkow honestly it’s kind of hard to say. I replaced a leaking exhaust manifold at around the same time. I had a noticeable increase in mileage, but not sure if it was the hubs or the exhaust that most contributed to it. It’s still sluggish, but on mine that is more a need to change out my gears than anything else. Like I said, my main goal was to be able to run in 2wd and take the spartan locker out of the equation for on the street, and it does that with flying colors.
Did you have any problem with outer seals (the red pieces at the end of the tube)? The reason I am asking is that I read somewhere that this kit messes up the outer seals to change in the geometry
The kit pushes the front wheels out, but less than 1 inch, about 3/4 of an inch. I did not bother with spacers since I am running the Jeep Liberty disc brakes on the rear, and they push the wheel out about 1/2 inch, so you can not tell by looking at the XJ. Even without the rear discs, I don't think it would be noticeable enough to bother with spacers.
So I can partially answer your question. What I know is the difference between the factory XJ rotor and the rotor for the free spin kit is the inner diameter for the free spin kit is larger. So all you would have to do is chuck up a new XJ rotor and open up the hub hole to fit the free spin hub. The kit does come with a set of rotors already machined. with the free spin kit, the rotor is held to the rear side of the hub with the pressed in wheel studs, instead of slip fitting over the outside of the studs like factory. What I don't know is how the kit would work on the WJ knuckles, as I have not done that conversion and don't know if the WJ knuckles use the same bearing set up as the XJ. I know the WJ brake rotors are larger in outer diameter, but I don't know any of the other measurements for a WJ rotor, so you would have to dig into that to see if it would fit.
I’m also curious about the rotors, did you try and slip the hub into your stock ones to see how tight it is? I run Grand Cherokee rotors and dual piston calipers, this setup still uses stock hubs but I did have to slightly (just barely) grind the unit bearing down to fit the rotors. I wonder if it’s small enough it could be done with a dremel and a lot of patience or if it definitely needs to be lathes.
If I recall, and it has been a while, the stock rotors would not fit over the manual locking hub at all. The rotors that came in the kit are stock rotors, but they opened up the center to fit the locking hub. Not sure of the exact dimension, but I think it was more than just a hair, not sure how well it would work trying with hand held power tools. I am hoping to change my oil and rotate tires this weekend, and I will try to remember to get a comparison if I have time.
So I looked at it today while I was rotating my tires and there is no way for me to get a measurement without pulling the hubs and axles because I forgot that the rotors go on the back of the hub and are held on by the back side of the studs. I will be re-rearing that axle in the next few months, so that will be when I can get an actual measurement.
@@ludercoarmsaccording to Yukon the opening is 3.575. And if I remember correctly it was about 3/4” larger than stock. I’ve been asking around and people say the bearings like to wear out so I’m kinda on the fence.
@@Digitydan The kit comes with good Timkin bearings, each hub takes a set47 and a set45 (if you need to buy a spare set). In the kit they come in a blister pack like most Grizzly kits. You have to be very careful about checking that the proper bearing and race get matched up in each set. I know this because I assumed that they would be matched in the package, but found that they were not. I had all the proper pieces, but they were packed mixed, and are very close in size. Don't know if that's what happened to them. So far knock on wood I have had no bearing failures.
Good info! I’ve been asking around on FB on I get a lot of responses that the 07 kit is weak. However, I have yet to get one response from someone who actually has the kit on their own rig and regrets it. I guess I’ll just have to give it a shot, or put 60’s under my rig instead 😂
Very little noticeable change in mileage for me, maybe 1 mile per gallon. But I was not really looking for much in that department. My main purpose was to be able to run a Spartan locker in the front axle for off road without it effecting my daily driving.
Very little, about 1 MPG. But way less wear and tear on the front drivetrain, and the ability to run a spartan locker in the front axle was why I did it.
Thank you so much for your video. It's very well made and well explain, I'm thinking. On doing this on my 2001 Xj thank you.
Thank you, glad it can help you out!!
Awesome job! How is it holding up? I’m looking at this kit and one from The Ram Man Inc.
So far no problems, I am very happy with it. Thanks!!
Thank you for the detailed install. I can’t find this info anywhere else.
That's why I did the video, I could not find any details on the kit when I looked. Thanks for watching!!
You changed out 355 gears to 488, then installed hubs on the front and you gain 1 mpg ? You see where I’m going with this?
I see where you are going, except I did not do it to gain fuel mileage. Any fuel mileage gain was just a bonus. I did it so that I could run a full time locker in the front axle for off road, and unlock the hubs and still drive it daily. And now if I break an axle, I can just unlock the hubs and limp it home in 2wd without grinding everything in the front axle together like the factory setup.
Did you notice any imporvements in drivability?
Less wear on front driveshaft, and able to use a spartan locker in the front and still daily drive it with the Hubs unlocked and in 2wd nothing is spinning. That and very slightly better mileage.
@@ludercoarms would you say 1-2 MPG or more like an extra 10 miles per tank lol.
I was wondering if it felt and less sluggish too.
@@ksenkow honestly it’s kind of hard to say. I replaced a leaking exhaust manifold at around the same time. I had a noticeable increase in mileage, but not sure if it was the hubs or the exhaust that most contributed to it. It’s still sluggish, but on mine that is more a need to change out my gears than anything else. Like I said, my main goal was to be able to run in 2wd and take the spartan locker out of the equation for on the street, and it does that with flying colors.
Do you recommend loctite on the bolts for spindle n dust shield? Thank you very much for video. You saved my life!
You can use loctite, but use the blue medium kind, if you use the red you will need to heat it with a torch to take it back off.
Awesome! Thank you for reply.
Did you have any problem with outer seals (the red pieces at the end of the tube)? The reason I am asking is that I read somewhere that this kit messes up the outer seals to change in the geometry
No, no problems at all with the tube seals, they have worked great
Does the front wheel offset change? Do you need to add spacers to the the rear wheels?
The kit pushes the front wheels out, but less than 1 inch, about 3/4 of an inch. I did not bother with spacers since I am running the Jeep Liberty disc brakes on the rear, and they push the wheel out about 1/2 inch, so you can not tell by looking at the XJ. Even without the rear discs, I don't think it would be noticeable enough to bother with spacers.
How would you set up your lathe to machine a set of new rotors? I’m looking at the Yukon YA WU-07 but setting it for the WJ knuckle swap on 5x4.5
So I can partially answer your question. What I know is the difference between the factory XJ rotor and the rotor for the free spin kit is the inner diameter for the free spin kit is larger. So all you would have to do is chuck up a new XJ rotor and open up the hub hole to fit the free spin hub. The kit does come with a set of rotors already machined. with the free spin kit, the rotor is held to the rear side of the hub with the pressed in wheel studs, instead of slip fitting over the outside of the studs like factory. What I don't know is how the kit would work on the WJ knuckles, as I have not done that conversion and don't know if the WJ knuckles use the same bearing set up as the XJ. I know the WJ brake rotors are larger in outer diameter, but I don't know any of the other measurements for a WJ rotor, so you would have to dig into that to see if it would fit.
Hello. Do you know if that kit will fit to a dana 30 on a jk 2013 ?
I don't know, I never had a JK, so I can't say what is different.
I’m also curious about the rotors, did you try and slip the hub into your stock ones to see how tight it is? I run Grand Cherokee rotors and dual piston calipers, this setup still uses stock hubs but I did have to slightly (just barely) grind the unit bearing down to fit the rotors. I wonder if it’s small enough it could be done with a dremel and a lot of patience or if it definitely needs to be lathes.
If I recall, and it has been a while, the stock rotors would not fit over the manual locking hub at all. The rotors that came in the kit are stock rotors, but they opened up the center to fit the locking hub. Not sure of the exact dimension, but I think it was more than just a hair, not sure how well it would work trying with hand held power tools. I am hoping to change my oil and rotate tires this weekend, and I will try to remember to get a comparison if I have time.
So I looked at it today while I was rotating my tires and there is no way for me to get a measurement without pulling the hubs and axles because I forgot that the rotors go on the back of the hub and are held on by the back side of the studs. I will be re-rearing that axle in the next few months, so that will be when I can get an actual measurement.
@@ludercoarmsaccording to Yukon the opening is 3.575. And if I remember correctly it was about 3/4” larger than stock.
I’ve been asking around and people say the bearings like to wear out so I’m kinda on the fence.
@@Digitydan The kit comes with good Timkin bearings, each hub takes a set47 and a set45 (if you need to buy a spare set). In the kit they come in a blister pack like most Grizzly kits. You have to be very careful about checking that the proper bearing and race get matched up in each set. I know this because I assumed that they would be matched in the package, but found that they were not. I had all the proper pieces, but they were packed mixed, and are very close in size. Don't know if that's what happened to them. So far knock on wood I have had no bearing failures.
Good info! I’ve been asking around on FB on I get a lot of responses that the 07 kit is weak. However, I have yet to get one response from someone who actually has the kit on their own rig and regrets it. I guess I’ll just have to give it a shot, or put 60’s under my rig instead 😂
Sorry one more question, did you notice any increase in gas mileage? Thanks
Very little noticeable change in mileage for me, maybe 1 mile per gallon. But I was not really looking for much in that department. My main purpose was to be able to run a Spartan locker in the front axle for off road without it effecting my daily driving.
What’s the part number on that kit you got, great video
Yukon part # YA WU-07. www.yukongear.com/shop/ya-wu-07
Axels parts number 🙏🏼
How much did this effect the gas mileage ?
Very little, about 1 MPG. But way less wear and tear on the front drivetrain, and the ability to run a spartan locker in the front axle was why I did it.