You might try 1/8" or 3mm PTFE (Teflon) plastic rod and see if you can skip the wax entirely while getting the same hydrophobic effect. Otherwise, rain-x applied to smooth nails, dowels, etc. could be worth trying as long as it wouldn't foul any of the nearby surfaces.
Dipping your aluminum pins into liquid silicone (used for mould-making) and letting them drip dry might give a good result that would be more permanent, as well as more slip-repellent than using wax. You'd be able to make pins with very small diameters using this technique, whereas my previous suggestion of using a plastic straw as a mould for silicone caulk would limit you to somewhat larger, though probably more uniform diameters.
It might be worth 3d printing some dowels instead of using metal pins. The textured surface of the printed dowels might allow for the wax to better adhere to them.
That's an interesting thought. I guess it could also be modeled with extra texture if needed. My intuition is the final waxed surface should be smooth, but maybe if the wax is doing the right thing that wouldn't be needed?
It was one of the first things I tested, but it could be worth revisiting now that I am using the wax. The thought is by pulling them quickly, then the slip still has a chance to flow down and away. If I wait, any slip still on the pin will be deposited on the edge of the hole when I pull them out (which is what happened the first time I tried it). There is less clay on the waxed pins, but there still is some.
What about pushing through than pulling out? So that the excess slip goes with the pin, than pulled back towards the hole and sticking? Only thing then is you need like a basket to collect all the pushed in pins at the end. This is entirely just a guess though.
For a different form, I think that could work. But I can't pull them from the inside of my sphere form since I can't reach inside. If I pushed them and they fell inside they'd likely leave marks where they touch the very soft clay.
In my last video, someone suggested silicone spray, which I do have. However I'm thinking it would have the same issue sticking to the pins. Silicone pins would be interesting - I wonder if I can find those.
Wood would like absorb the wax better. It would need to be fully coated though since if it absorbed water from the slip it would have the opposite effect than desired.
I watched this with the sound off and I really don't know what the guy was doing. I mean, I get the clay and stuff, but not the goal. I'm not complaining -- I decided to turn the sound off and I enjoyed watching, despite having no idea. Just thought it was funny.
Thank you for posting your progress
Thanks for following along!
You might try 1/8" or 3mm PTFE (Teflon) plastic rod and see if you can skip the wax entirely while getting the same hydrophobic effect. Otherwise, rain-x applied to smooth nails, dowels, etc. could be worth trying as long as it wouldn't foul any of the nearby surfaces.
A PTFE rod would seem like a great option! Thanks for the suggestion!
Dipping your aluminum pins into liquid silicone (used for mould-making) and letting them drip dry might give a good result that would be more permanent, as well as more slip-repellent than using wax. You'd be able to make pins with very small diameters using this technique, whereas my previous suggestion of using a plastic straw as a mould for silicone caulk would limit you to somewhat larger, though probably more uniform diameters.
Thanks for following this journey!
It might be worth 3d printing some dowels instead of using metal pins. The textured surface of the printed dowels might allow for the wax to better adhere to them.
That's an interesting thought. I guess it could also be modeled with extra texture if needed. My intuition is the final waxed surface should be smooth, but maybe if the wax is doing the right thing that wouldn't be needed?
why not leave the pins longer? its still runny when you take them out.... not sure if this was in another video or not
It was one of the first things I tested, but it could be worth revisiting now that I am using the wax. The thought is by pulling them quickly, then the slip still has a chance to flow down and away. If I wait, any slip still on the pin will be deposited on the edge of the hole when I pull them out (which is what happened the first time I tried it). There is less clay on the waxed pins, but there still is some.
What about pushing through than pulling out? So that the excess slip goes with the pin, than pulled back towards the hole and sticking? Only thing then is you need like a basket to collect all the pushed in pins at the end. This is entirely just a guess though.
For a different form, I think that could work. But I can't pull them from the inside of my sphere form since I can't reach inside. If I pushed them and they fell inside they'd likely leave marks where they touch the very soft clay.
Will using silicone pins and/or hydrophobic spray used to impregnate textiles be helpful?
In my last video, someone suggested silicone spray, which I do have. However I'm thinking it would have the same issue sticking to the pins. Silicone pins would be interesting - I wonder if I can find those.
Coating the nail with silicone designed for bathroom or kitchen use would likely be the easiest method to create silicone pins.
@@alodin11 seen others 3d print silicone molds. Could just use the molds to make a set of multiple pins, but that would be $$$.
Yes, I think if I were to go this route I'd need to make a mold and use a 2 part silicone. Otherwise I'm not sure I have the skill to make it smooth!
i imagine that a wooden pin would work better due to water absorption
Wood would like absorb the wax better. It would need to be fully coated though since if it absorbed water from the slip it would have the opposite effect than desired.
I watched this with the sound off and I really don't know what the guy was doing. I mean, I get the clay and stuff, but not the goal. I'm not complaining -- I decided to turn the sound off and I enjoyed watching, despite having no idea. Just thought it was funny.
Much of the story is indeed in my talking along what I'm doing and why I'm doing it
Why not drill the holes after this step? Just by hand with the tiny 3mm drill. Now you know where the holes are, this will just take a minute.
Because the clay breaks out as I showed near the beginning of the video. Locating the holes isn't the issue - it's the chipping.