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Room temperature is fine. Actually what matters most in drying your pots is to do so evenly. If you do accelerate the drying you need to be rather careful so it doesn't crack during firing. Slow is much easier.

It's so useful!

I looked at PTFE on McMaster - and it was way too expensive. The problem is the quality of holes and therefore material needed.

I use frit in my glazes. What do you mean by better though? Besides the colors, this came out as expected. I'd worry about putting anything like this on the inside of a pot that is to be functional.

I have thought about some other options, and want to get back to doing some experiments. The bolts and inserts are doing 2 things. First, they are attaching the parts together, and there might be other options. The second is that they are aligning the parts. For the outer mold, that alignment isn't very critical, but going into multipart molds it will become more so. BTW, threaded inserts are reusable, but much more annoying to do so.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Something glitched! But I love your content!

I do have videos on that. You want to look for "slip" which is liquid clay, and "slip casting slip" in particular. You don't make it from normal plastic throwing clay in general, the clay composition is different. As such, you start from dry clay.

Thanks for following along. Yes, it is nice how a bunch of small tests and iterations all add up over time!

Great to hear!

Indeed!

It chips out going in. By the time it is pulled out, it's already happened.

Ah saw you tested it. Watch the whole video where your put in spikes. This method, I can see via your videos is that any clay sticked on it has to be removed completely before dragging them out. Well will watch your even newer video ❤ you have on this topic.

Indeed I did - a couple of different ways!

I'm pretty sure the issue is my porcelain like clay body - it's just not plastic enough

It's been fun diving in to this space! There are a few ways to use 3d printing with pottery indeed.

You're welcome!

Yes. I think so. Although, I hadn't thought about the heat generated. I was going to try this again as some point controlling for air pressure and boiling, but the plaster's heat is something I hadn't thought of in doing so.

@@PotterybyKent Yeah, I found your video because I was searching the web for anyone who'd experimented with cured gypsum plaster forms in a vacuum. I was wondering if hard vacuum wouldn't dehydrate them enough to recycle back to powder. Something I'll have to try for myself.

Interesting. I have seen very little myself showing plaster in vacuum

Yes, that is correct.

People use silicone to make plaster molds. But you can't pour slip directly into silicone since you need to special properties of plaster.

Thanks! You should be active now. The mold walls are 2.4mm thick (except for the flanges which are thicker to accommodate the inserts). And the design proof is only 1.2mm thick so it can be printed quickly.

@@PotterybyKent Appreciate the quick reply and also activating my login so quickly. To be honest I was thinking it would take quite a while to activate so ended up replicating a lot of your work but in Fusion 360. No where near as refined as yours but think it's close to being functional. One thought that struck me that might be of interest to you is to allow for incorporating a stamp svg in the base. My partner (who's the potter) stamps her pieces afterwards with her brass stamp but thought since making a mould I would try and incorporate her logo straight into the mould. Not sure how well the resolution will come out but figured it would be worth a go. Thanks again.

Yes, stamps, and texture more broadly, are things I've been thinking about. One thing holding me back (besides being busy on other things like handles!) is I know potters will place stamps in a variety of locations on the foot, and I haven't thought of a good easy way to pick that location given the current workflow. There are also a bunch of other parameters to work out (depth, draft angle, minimum feature size, etc) but those probably just need some testing.

Thanks for watching! It is not - which is why the process has several steps. In short, the plaster is porous and transfers the water from the slip to deposit the clay. If you used a 3d print, it would be just like pouring the slip into a plastic bucket and back out. You'd get a dirty bucket, but no pot.

The pressure would be coming from all sides. It would really depend on the shape, but if it is solid, my guess is it would work out ok.

@@PotterybyKent Thank you so much for quick response. It is really appreciated as many people don't reply. All your videos are very informative, very efficient and professionally presented. Thank you for taking the time to help all of us beginners.

Happy to help and thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

That is the orientation it is printed in (in some of my videos you can see I don't even remove the supports). When you use Shape Cast, the parts are in that orientation already.

Interesting idea. I did that for a bit with my plate bucket - but it can get a tear that way so I stopped. And now, I much prefer my 3d printed molds!

I have not used them. I played around with 3D printing some, but they didn't work in the way I wanted. I'm still on the fence about having keys vs not having any - there are tradeoffs.

I'm not sure I understand your question. Here I add masons stain to get the color

Pottery plaster

@@PotterybyKent thanks brother

I have not. I havent dug into the impact the different chemistries have.

@@PotterybyKent Well I am now, will let you know how it went in 48 hours 😁

Sounds great!

@@PotterybyKent Black iron(3) oxide came out pinkish from electric kiln, experiment successfully failed.

Thanks for sharing!

Since these are @oldforgecreation's glazes I've been using a modified version of his

You're most welcome

Thanks and great!. TPU has been suggested but a lot of Shape Cast users can't print TPU so it hasn't been a high priority. I do want to revisit the flanges though. In line with the second, some people have also asked for an insert to go into the soft clay so it doesn't deform. Forms the right size for plaster mixing and displacement dip glazing also seem like possible accessories. But next up is more handles!

Happy to help and answer questions! It's basically the same answer as normal plastic clay used for throwing or hand building. It depends on your clay body. You can get low, medium or high fire casting slips. I use medium fire - Cone 5/6. The firing profile is impacted by your glaze as much as the clay body. So use a profile recommended by whoever makes your glaze. I use a fair number of @oldforgecreations glaze recipes and use the firing schedule similar to what he posted on glazy.

Send me a email. It sounds like the scale of your SVG is wrong (wrong units). The 3D files should not be scaled at all - they will not print correctly if you scale them,

@@PotterybyKent yes, scaling does not work … So I will send the files as soon as possible. Thank you very much Kent!

It is indeed!

@@PotterybyKent I printed the larger tumbler with the 1 piece outter shell, rather than printing 4 pieces. Is there a way to remove the 3d print from the plaster? I got the middle piece out with the ice water alcohol combo, but I'm wondering if it would work if I heated up the outter part. I'm thinking a towel soaked in hot water? I totally forgot to add Murphy's wash on the inside.

That is exactly why the outer mold is multiple pieces. In early development I ended up cutting them off. I doubt hot water would do too much. And mold release really isn't needed since this isn't a plaster on plaster pour.

I don't use resin based printers, but from what I understand they're actually washed in alcohol pre-curing so I'm guessing it is no issue. Otherwise I'd imagine it would do the same thing in terms of shrinking the part just a bit to help with release.

@@PotterybyKent Thank you for your answer. We are looking forward to your new videos. Good work.

Yes,I'd imagine it would degrade slower due to the strength. I haven't actually tested the difference but that might be an interesting thing to do. Do the molds dry out as well? I'm guessing that might be another impact of the denser plaster.

@@PotterybyKent possibly a little slower to try, but I haven't tried to really push them either - I do 1 casting a day usually, and they are ready to go the next day - Granted I'm working in an insulated Metal workshop in North Carolina heat (but also high humidity)

Good to know. Thanks for sharing!

Not without some issues. My video from this past weekend talks about this.

That's great to hear!

Thanks and good luck with your pieces!

Interesting idea (although it would take a big oven!) I have seen people place their molds in front of fans, and I have a small dehumidifier I run in the winter to help control ambient moisture.

Ask your local pottery supply store. Often they have firing services. Or check with a local pottery studio. And another option is to check out kilnshare.com where people will rent out their kilns.

@@PotterybyKentThank you!

@@PotterybyKent if I wanted to cast a mug that is very wide at the bottom then tapers a lot to the top, do to think that could be cast with the handle? Or in your experience would it be easier/ more reliable to cast the handle separately?

I have seen a few molds with integrated handles, but I think they can be problematic if not done right (and limit form options). By doing the handle separately you can avoid those issues.

It really is fun!

Glad you enjoyed it!

My slip is made by my local pottery shop, so sharing the details isn't all that useful. It's a cone 6 porcelain like clay body. I get it as a dry powder and mix it myself.

It's been working great, and by chance, I actually give a quick update on it in the video for tomorrow.