Thank-you so much for this great video series. By knowing the neck concentricity (runout) and concentric wall thickness on your new case (sinclair, neko, 21 century concentricity gauges and a redding wall thickness gauge), we can cull any case say above 2,500 on both measurments, then measure again after being once fired to make sure we are comparing apples with apples. We want to see runout at or below 2,000 on all cases. Then we know we are compairing simular cases. You-all could be comparing cases that are very different (some with 1,000 and some with 3,000 or more neck runout) and not even know it and potentially get uneven results and distortions in the final data set, or maybe not. Because an RCBS Matchmaster seating die on a co-ax press loading a nosler balistic tip bullet could still give you a final bullet runout that will go strait down the barrel out to say 100 yards and so maybe everything I just said doesn't even matter. The redding expander ball can cause neck distortions and needs to be replaced with a sinclair carbide expander mandrel which can be run before and after resizing. I have found it is easier to straiten up the neck when they are warm especially on problem cases say out beyond 3,000 in the neck. I will warm them up before I resize them whether once fired or new. With the co-ax and a Lee seating die or a wilson arbor press die on my k and m press loading Nosler balistic tip bullets I can have as much as 3,000 runout in the neck and still get a 1,000 runout on the bullet. The thing I want to know is... Are my dies improving the neck concentricity or my cases gona be the same or are they gona get worse after sizing... so I just keep trying and testing new dies until I get a die that can straiten a case neck that is say 2,000 or 3,000 out down to 1,000. I sort my new and once fired brass by neck concentricity runout using ziplock freezer bags. (Lapua, norma, nosler, starline, remengton, lake city and winchester, then I load nosler balistic tip bullets. Lapua dosn't tumble polish their brass and so I get a larger percentage of strait cases from them then say from starline. The goal is to align the tip of the bullet with the imaginary line running down the center of the barrel and get this line to run through the center of the flash hole in the back of the cartridge. Next I want the trim length between the max length and the trim length and I want the shoulder set back so there is no resistance when closing the bolt. I want the bullet to stay in place without having the bullet resize the brass when I load it. I have been leaving the dry lube on the outside of the case... so now I'm going to start wiping it off before running the expander inside the case. I use 0000 steel wool to true up and clean up the cases and I clean up my cases by soaking them in Lemi Shine and dawn soap after removing the primer. I also leave the case in the die when atempting to true up the neck to allow the die enough dwell time to straiten the neck. Sometimes on problem cases for extended periods of time. 80 percent of the accuracy is in the bullet, powder, and primer, the rest is in the case. Without regard to the shooter, his rifle and scope. Before we see the results... I see proper anealing as a way to straiten the case neck and tune the neck tension on the bullet for optimizing long range accuracy.
I deprime and clean the cases before I anneal , it seems to help the inside of the case to resize better because the powder residue is not baked on the case from annealing.😉
Thank-you so much for this great video series.
By knowing the neck concentricity (runout) and concentric wall thickness on your new case (sinclair, neko, 21 century concentricity gauges and a redding wall thickness gauge), we can cull any case say above 2,500 on both measurments, then measure again after being once fired to make sure we are comparing apples with apples.
We want to see runout at or below 2,000 on all cases. Then we know we are compairing simular cases. You-all could be comparing cases that are very different (some with 1,000 and some with 3,000 or more neck runout) and not even know it and potentially get uneven results and distortions in the final data set, or maybe not. Because an RCBS Matchmaster seating die on a co-ax press loading a nosler balistic tip bullet could still give you a final bullet runout that will go strait down the barrel out to say 100 yards and so maybe everything I just said doesn't even matter.
The redding expander ball can cause neck distortions and needs to be replaced with a sinclair carbide expander mandrel which can be run before and after resizing. I have found it is easier to straiten up the neck when they are warm especially on problem cases say out beyond 3,000 in the neck.
I will warm them up before I resize them whether once fired or new. With the co-ax and a Lee seating die or a wilson arbor press die on my k and m press loading Nosler balistic tip bullets I can have as much as 3,000 runout in the neck and still get a 1,000 runout on the bullet.
The thing I want to know is... Are my dies improving the neck concentricity or my cases gona be the same or are they gona get worse after sizing... so I just keep trying and testing new dies until I get a die that can straiten a case neck that is say 2,000 or 3,000 out down to 1,000.
I sort my new and once fired brass by neck concentricity runout using ziplock freezer bags. (Lapua, norma, nosler, starline, remengton, lake city and winchester, then I load nosler balistic tip bullets. Lapua dosn't tumble polish their brass and so I get a larger percentage of strait cases from them then say from starline.
The goal is to align the tip of the bullet with the imaginary line running down the center of the barrel and get this line to run through the center of the flash hole in the back of the cartridge. Next I want the trim length between the max length and the trim length and I want the shoulder set back so there is no resistance when closing the bolt. I want the bullet to stay in place without having the bullet resize the brass when I load it.
I have been leaving the dry lube on the outside of the case... so now I'm going to start wiping it off before running the expander inside the case. I use 0000 steel wool to true up and clean up the cases and I clean up my cases by soaking them in Lemi Shine and dawn soap after removing the primer. I also leave the case in the die when atempting to true up the neck to allow the die enough dwell time to straiten the neck. Sometimes on problem cases for extended periods of time.
80 percent of the accuracy is in the bullet, powder, and primer, the rest is in the case. Without regard to the shooter, his rifle and scope. Before we see the results... I see proper anealing as a way to straiten the case neck and tune the neck tension on the bullet for optimizing long range accuracy.
I deprime and clean the cases before I anneal , it seems to help the inside of the case to resize better because the powder residue is not baked on the case from annealing.😉
Those Kiwis are clever gents.