The connection between the model and designer has been cut off by the emergence of the casting director ecosystem. Casting directors’ views have heavily infiltrated the storytelling process of these brand’s shows and campaigns. They have their favorites (based on what agents they are close to) and will usually cast models based on the “on trend look” in the industry for a specific race. As a model myself, when I started getting into the international runway circuit, I was told to stop being theatrical with my walk or even using hip swaying by the top casting directors and to instead walk “powerful” (aka straight posture and robotic). Casting directors aren’t casting models for their personalities and a lot of these shows because these shows have lost a part of their theatrical focus. I’ve had situations where I haven’t been able to return to walk for a designer or stylist that I had a pretty close relationship with because of a new Casting Director wanting to assert their vision or authority. They also aren’t really casting models or introducing designers to models for their personality unless they already have an established/lucrative personality that is establishing their career in the industry. If they want personality on the runway, they will use a musician or an influencer or some of our type of public figure for that extra wow factor or instead of relying of models who can embody the world the designer/brand is creating. I truly believe if you remove the Casting Director out of the ecosystem of the fashion industry, you could probably see the emergence of supermodels continue. But unfortunately, with their presence, they become a lethal gatekeeper lowering the possibility of a model being able to sincerely create their career based off of their artistry, personality, interest, and collaboration with a designer.
Absolutely. Those who are not models or directly in the industry won't understand this disconnect. There is a middleman between these ideas. And many designers are not the ones actively bringing in the models for their designs.
Thanks for your great comment, you brought up an amazing point about the casting directors. I definitely agree from what i've seen first hand working for brands and seeing the process of how they picked the models for campaigns and shows. It really is a symptom of a bigger problem. It's like if I said "luxury is worse now than before" - it would expand into a conversation of luxury fashion going mass market and it leading to a heap of sustainability and quality control issues but the fact would still remain that luxury is now worse.
It's so sad that this fast-fashion/influencer culture has replaced the interactive salesperson and models-as-muses approaches supermodels embodied. That casting director seems like a shake-down for money and prestige once the purview of modeling agencies. Is this position a result of the new over-leveraged private equity investors? As you indicated, this shift also detracts from recognition of designers as artists.
Another reason why smaller designers shouldn't consider doing a runway show if they're just gonna phone it in along with the models who they choose. Big houses should be ashamed of themselves for watering down the runway and relying on celebs to sell the show
👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿 fantastic comment, pharell really needs to read this comment. Pharell LV menswear casting is terrible instead of just choosing models whose job it is to make the looks good he keeps picking his celebrity friends 🙄
I have to blame ms Prada lol. When she did the whole whiteout we got an influx of emotionless models on the runway. I’m probably biased but my favorite era was the 90s. These women looked like they genuinely loved to wear the clothes and they sold the lifestyle and vibes. Thinking of how Yasmeen sashayed and swayed when she would come down the runway. I do see *some* of that today but the girls who have it aren’t pushed out to us the same way *certain* 👀 other models are lol.
Yeah unfortunately nepo babies are our current top models instead of the models who are actual models physically and are able actually model. Whether it be runway or print
One thing I'll say about the models in their defence they're being told how to model. If the CD just wants a boring walk its the models job to produce that. So I'll give models a little bit of grace in that regard
This is exactly why I put the responsibility on the designers as well. Very hard to model with emotion and character when the clothes are emotionless and void
Selfie culture, too many brands, instagram. Models back then brought elements of acting to the table because they were told to dabble in acting in case modeling did not work, those seemed to be the 2 options acting being the harder one so they put more effort into it I think.
@@Jerrard1983 Also, besides whether I caught it in person or not. It’s very easy to watch runway videos from the 80s and 90s and compare the way the models walked and performed to now.
I feel like the utility of models has shifted to prioritize the aesthetic of the designer and how the model's look can be used as an accesory in the show over the actual conventional beauty of the "supermodel". In that sense I welcome the change cause it leads to more interesting runways and lookbooks
Models look like groupies at a show to me. They're so damn grateful to be seen and it shows. The old supermodels made you believe you liked them, girls having fun. These new ones you are convinced wouldn't talk to you. It may be completely wrong considering they invented "model behavior" but IDC about your behavior on a plane (😉Naomi Campbell) just do your job right.
Sorry plus sizs models arent fashion models and they are apart of the downfall of modelling as well as nepotism. That persons comment was bang on. Modelling is a job its not about identity politics there's different modeling divisions and plus size models have their lane and its not fashion. The same way fashion models don't do commercial or lingerie modelling because they dont have that look
I may be wrong, but wasn't Versace the first one to create the "supermodel" by using cover models ( those in magazines ) and lingerie models and putting them on the catwalk ? I think Linda, Christy, Claudia etc were cover/commercial models because they had beautiful faces and Elle Macpherson was a swimsuit model, before that catwalk models were just very tall and thin and not necessarily classically beautiful ( eg Innes De La Fresange, the OG Chanel muse/model ) she was 35 yrs old, then, unheard of now for any model to be, outside of celebrities ) Versace was the first one to use stunningly beautiful commercial models on the catwalk, instead of regular catwalk models, and that started the trend, which of course later died. IMO, we should use lingerie models to do catwalk, after all they are between 5'7 and 5'9, curvy, not plus size and that's why the majority of non fashion people would consider beautiful - Hedi Klum, Naomi, Tyra Banks etc
The problem with the Plus Size model is they restrict the movement of a garment and the structure is greatly depreciated on the body type but now we have to ask if Plus Size is the new theatrical and performative runway, people would certainly be moved by it
I strongly disagree. I think plus size models can absolutely understand the designer’s vision, embody a character and bring a collection to life. I think you only need to look at the diverse bodies and personalities that Casey Cadwaller brings to Mugler’s shows and fashion films. You can look back further to Thierry’s collections for Mugler as well, and Jean Paul Gaultier. Both had a variety of women of different ages, sizes, races and expressions. And frankly I find this casting much more interesting and expressive than the sea of young, skinny, white women that make up the industry standard.
@@LeChevalierPourpre we're not talking about race we're talking about being a model. Being a model isn't subject to just white people you can find fashion models in all races and history has shown black models have always existed. Again there's different types of modelling and plus size models don't belong in fashion they're not able to pull it off in the same way as a tall slender person with the right body proportions. It just is what it is anyone that want a plus size person in fashion just wants to feel seen but again modelling is a job just like every other job and your identity shouldn't be attached to fashion modelling. Its funny because no one is complaining about the lack of plus size modelling in commercial modelling or lingerie modeling unless its VS of course for obvious reasons
Plus size modelling in fashion shouldn't have to have anythings to do with politics. I am sure fashion models do do lingerie. I am glad that yhere are more plus size models in fashion.
Nah, that's probably a bias for how you view Americans but it can be anywhere the ones here and I work within the industry from what I've seen they're always grateful while still trying to make a name for themselves, which ofc they need to be able to live.
The connection between the model and designer has been cut off by the emergence of the casting director ecosystem. Casting directors’ views have heavily infiltrated the storytelling process of these brand’s shows and campaigns. They have their favorites (based on what agents they are close to) and will usually cast models based on the “on trend look” in the industry for a specific race. As a model myself, when I started getting into the international runway circuit, I was told to stop being theatrical with my walk or even using hip swaying by the top casting directors and to instead walk “powerful” (aka straight posture and robotic). Casting directors aren’t casting models for their personalities and a lot of these shows because these shows have lost a part of their theatrical focus. I’ve had situations where I haven’t been able to return to walk for a designer or stylist that I had a pretty close relationship with because of a new Casting Director wanting to assert their vision or authority. They also aren’t really casting models or introducing designers to models for their personality unless they already have an established/lucrative personality that is establishing their career in the industry. If they want personality on the runway, they will use a musician or an influencer or some of our type of public figure for that extra wow factor or instead of relying of models who can embody the world the designer/brand is creating. I truly believe if you remove the Casting Director out of the ecosystem of the fashion industry, you could probably see the emergence of supermodels continue. But unfortunately, with their presence, they become a lethal gatekeeper lowering the possibility of a model being able to sincerely create their career based off of their artistry, personality, interest, and collaboration with a designer.
Absolutely. Those who are not models or directly in the industry won't understand this disconnect. There is a middleman between these ideas. And many designers are not the ones actively bringing in the models for their designs.
Thanks for your great comment, you brought up an amazing point about the casting directors. I definitely agree from what i've seen first hand working for brands and seeing the process of how they picked the models for campaigns and shows. It really is a symptom of a bigger problem. It's like if I said "luxury is worse now than before" - it would expand into a conversation of luxury fashion going mass market and it leading to a heap of sustainability and quality control issues but the fact would still remain that luxury is now worse.
It's so sad that this fast-fashion/influencer culture has replaced the interactive salesperson and models-as-muses approaches supermodels embodied. That casting director seems like a shake-down for money and prestige once the purview of modeling agencies. Is this position a result of the new over-leveraged private equity investors? As you indicated, this shift also detracts from recognition of designers as artists.
The industry has definitely lost the 'theater' aspect of fashion presentations
Another reason why smaller designers shouldn't consider doing a runway show if they're just gonna phone it in along with the models who they choose. Big houses should be ashamed of themselves for watering down the runway and relying on celebs to sell the show
👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿 fantastic comment, pharell really needs to read this comment. Pharell LV menswear casting is terrible instead of just choosing models whose job it is to make the looks good he keeps picking his celebrity friends 🙄
I have to blame ms Prada lol. When she did the whole whiteout we got an influx of emotionless models on the runway. I’m probably biased but my favorite era was the 90s. These women looked like they genuinely loved to wear the clothes and they sold the lifestyle and vibes. Thinking of how Yasmeen sashayed and swayed when she would come down the runway. I do see *some* of that today but the girls who have it aren’t pushed out to us the same way *certain* 👀 other models are lol.
I agree! I remember Vogue did a good feature video about this.
@ is it on UA-cam?
@@Worldtraveler726 ua-cam.com/video/ObeHmWsyshM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Vogue
@ thank you!
Yeah unfortunately nepo babies are our current top models instead of the models who are actual models physically and are able actually model. Whether it be runway or print
💯💯 I’m so glad you addressed the state of modeling skills these days compared to yesteryear.
One thing I'll say about the models in their defence they're being told how to model. If the CD just wants a boring walk its the models job to produce that. So I'll give models a little bit of grace in that regard
This is exactly why I put the responsibility on the designers as well. Very hard to model with emotion and character when the clothes are emotionless and void
It's not the model's fault
It is coming from either the designer or the casting director or both
Selfie culture, too many brands, instagram. Models back then brought elements of acting to the table because they were told to dabble in acting in case modeling did not work, those seemed to be the 2 options acting being the harder one so they put more effort into it I think.
Friend you better talk like you were present for this era.😂❤
Haha, I caught the tail end
@ nooot even😂
@@Jerrard1983 Also, besides whether I caught it in person or not. It’s very easy to watch runway videos from the 80s and 90s and compare the way the models walked and performed to now.
I feel like the utility of models has shifted to prioritize the aesthetic of the designer and how the model's look can be used as an accesory in the show over the actual conventional beauty of the "supermodel". In that sense I welcome the change cause it leads to more interesting runways and lookbooks
Models look like groupies at a show to me. They're so damn grateful to be seen and it shows. The old supermodels made you believe you liked them, girls having fun. These new ones you are convinced wouldn't talk to you. It may be completely wrong considering they invented "model behavior" but IDC about your behavior on a plane (😉Naomi Campbell) just do your job right.
Sorry plus sizs models arent fashion models and they are apart of the downfall of modelling as well as nepotism. That persons comment was bang on. Modelling is a job its not about identity politics there's different modeling divisions and plus size models have their lane and its not fashion. The same way fashion models don't do commercial or lingerie modelling because they dont have that look
I may be wrong, but wasn't Versace the first one to create the "supermodel" by using cover models ( those in magazines ) and lingerie models and putting them on the catwalk ? I think Linda, Christy, Claudia etc were cover/commercial models because they had beautiful faces and Elle Macpherson was a swimsuit model, before that catwalk models were just very tall and thin and not necessarily classically beautiful ( eg Innes De La Fresange, the OG Chanel muse/model ) she was 35 yrs old, then, unheard of now for any model to be, outside of celebrities ) Versace was the first one to use stunningly beautiful commercial models on the catwalk, instead of regular catwalk models, and that started the trend, which of course later died. IMO, we should use lingerie models to do catwalk, after all they are between 5'7 and 5'9, curvy, not plus size and that's why the majority of non fashion people would consider beautiful - Hedi Klum, Naomi, Tyra Banks etc
The problem with the Plus Size model is they restrict the movement of a garment and the structure is greatly depreciated on the body type but now we have to ask if Plus Size is the new theatrical and performative runway, people would certainly be moved by it
I strongly disagree. I think plus size models can absolutely understand the designer’s vision, embody a character and bring a collection to life. I think you only need to look at the diverse bodies and personalities that Casey Cadwaller brings to Mugler’s shows and fashion films. You can look back further to Thierry’s collections for Mugler as well, and Jean Paul Gaultier. Both had a variety of women of different ages, sizes, races and expressions. And frankly I find this casting much more interesting and expressive than the sea of young, skinny, white women that make up the industry standard.
@@LeChevalierPourpre we're not talking about race we're talking about being a model. Being a model isn't subject to just white people you can find fashion models in all races and history has shown black models have always existed. Again there's different types of modelling and plus size models don't belong in fashion they're not able to pull it off in the same way as a tall slender person with the right body proportions. It just is what it is anyone that want a plus size person in fashion just wants to feel seen but again modelling is a job just like every other job and your identity shouldn't be attached to fashion modelling. Its funny because no one is complaining about the lack of plus size modelling in commercial modelling or lingerie modeling unless its VS of course for obvious reasons
Plus size modelling in fashion shouldn't have to have anythings to do with politics.
I am sure fashion models do do lingerie. I am glad that yhere are more plus size models in fashion.
Please leave the Kardashians out of this!
Just joined the Patreon! Woot
Woot
Welcome to the club!
@ thank you 🩵🩰
Models in America think they are bigger than the brand. Even when they first starting out they have no humility at allllll.
Nah, that's probably a bias for how you view Americans but it can be anywhere the ones here and I work within the industry from what I've seen they're always grateful while still trying to make a name for themselves, which ofc they need to be able to live.
well considering naomi campbell traveled to epstein island many many times i for one am glad the standard has changed
I'm no stan of Naomi, but your comment makes no sense, her individual behavior has no bearing on what model standards should be.