Update: my laser unit just died, BUT - you can totally just use a flashlight or your phone's flashlight as the light source - it doesn't have to be red, or a laser. In fact a flashlight is easier to align with the detector, and it gives more accurate/consistent readings (that aren't so sensitive to beam centering errors).
I just made this, and it is super useful. This is a great tool. Of course, I've now verified that so many of my old cameras have slow shutters at the higher speeds. Thanks for doing all of this work and posting it online.
Thank you for this tutorial. I don't think I've ever seen a tutorial where I could sit down watch the video and get all the information I need from the tutorial. Also I'm surprised this video only has 9000 views considering how useful it is
It will work well, Thank you for this!!! Small tip: If you using big format lenses shutter (leaf shutter), just change last 8 line to this: void CLOCK(){ if(digitalRead(2) == LOW){ Risingflag = 1; } if(digitalRead(2) == HIGH){ Fallingflag =1; } }
Great little project, thank you. I modified the script to pulse the laser on/off in order to test it at higher speeds. According to my script the "Speed" reported is 30 or 40 microseconds long. I can't tell if that's because of inaccuracies in the delay function or overhead somewhere else.
Found the parts on eBay in the UK and was able to get this working nicely. Now I can mod the shutter in my Brownie to be something more useful than 1/45 sec.
Something odd with my setup. I had to reverse the "Clock," "Low" and "High." It was giving me time measurements for the time between shutter firing. e.i. If I waited 10 seconds between each firing, It would return a microsecond count of 10000000. I am pretty new to all of this, but I am guessing my sensor is acting opposite of yours, lowering the voltage when it is getting light. That is my best guess. Hopefully that helps someone else that might be running into this problem. Thank You for the awesome tutorial. I have built a rough framework that holds the lasor and sensor about 10" apart. You just set the camera over the laser and fire. Still somekinks to work out as it is not so great for fixed lens cameras. Works great for camera bodies. Thanks again.
I just made this and a few things to note: The sensor lens needs to face the input/output pins otherwise it will burn up instantly. The sensors I got signal backwards. When lit the signal voltage goes low so I had to go in and change the interrupt values, then it worked fine. The sensors are also sensitive to all light, not just the laser so ambient lights can mess up your readings
Nice use of simple components for sure! I'll build one of these for sure and put it inside my "box of many arduinos" containing other camera and darkroom related stuff :) I would really like to see the code updated with a standalone monitor function though, but I might be able to add it myself. I am not a programmer at all, but I have found to be able to do small bits and pieces when I'm in desperate need of something I feel the need to have :) Thank you lots!
I don't quite understand why you where not satisfied with photo diode - photo transistor basically opto-coupler pair. They are in use for quite a long time, also monitoring fast changes in different speed or position encoders. Ok, if laser pairs are so available and cheap, probably easy to achieve measurement at bigger distance few centimeters e.g. Distance may be main reason, I can agree with that.
The main loop() is entered every 2500 microseconds or so when using the Arduino IDE to compile and run the code. At least for me. That means if you break up the start and stop functions (which is how this is coded) so that you use more than one call into the loop() then any shutter speed faster than about 1/125 could be erroneous For certain this code will never read 1/1000 and I would not trust any 1/250 or 1/500 readings. Perhaps the Microchip Studio has different looping code. I am just learning how to use that. But, if you want to see accurate faster shutter speeds, then you need to redesign this to do all calculations inside the current loop when the trigger has fired off the ISR. And even that may not work because of the potential delay between the ISR and the loop() code.
muy bueno, sencillamente explicado... consulta que tan difícil es agregar al código que exporte las mediciones, los tiempos tomas a una txt.. un abrazo...
The problem with using a laser is that it can only measure at one point, when the shutter speed exceeds the flash sync it is a problem since it only measures the fraction of time of the shutter windows that passes through the center.
I've never tried Arduino stuff before. This looks like it might be a nice starting point. Question on the programming: is there a reason you used ints instead of booleans for the flags?
Thanks so much, put this together and tested my camera collection, quite a few were out particularly at 500th and 1000th, interesting to note that the Nikons (FE2 and FM) were the best. Although there's no way i can tell what kind of life each camera had had before me. And a very little used Praktica PLC3 was very good still. Great device though, thank you. One thought, do you think the faster speeds (1000th to 4000th) are still easily within the accuracy of this device? I'm thinking yes, but wonder if anyone has any thoughts on this as most of my cameras had poor performance on these speeds.
Dennis Martin have you been able to test at higher speeds? How accurate is it? I put one together last night and it works with an LDR sensor as well (I don’t have a laser sensor on hand). It showed pretty accurate at lower speeds but once you reach 1/125 and up, it gets more and more off the mark. Not sure if it’s just the camera or if it’s the sensor, I’ll try another camera tonight to see if there’s any difference.
@@zammykoo I believe the response time of LDR's are way too slow, somewhere in the 20-40ms. That will only help you up to about 1/60 I believe. These laser sensors, which are transistors, measure in microseconds (us), much faster. At least that is my understanding.
The true shutter speed, in the case of for example a Nikon FM2 is not 1/4000, that is the total exposure time, the maximum speed is always 1/200 or 1/250 in the case of the FM2n which is the flash sync speed.
This is interesting, but what I'm actually interested in knowing is how reliable it is at fast speeds? A few months ago I built one that uses white light and I can't seem to be able to get a proper reading at any speed over 1/250th... I do get data on my LCD screen (yep, I went the overly complicated route 😉) but the numbers are obviously off.
Thank you for sharing the guide. It is useful. Just wondering since this uses laser, will it damage old shutters? especially the cloth shutters. Thank you again and keep up the great work.
Wow just came across this and immediately ordered parts to build one.. This will be great for LF vintage shutters... BTW did you or anyone come up with some code to add a screen to this little unit..
Hi, first off, thanks for the tutorial. I have set it up and got it working but am now trying to add a LCD via i2c to display the serial output so I dont need to connect to a PC, I have VERY limited Arduino skills and I cant seem to integrate the sample serial output sketches to your sketch, any chance you might give it a go? Seeing as a 32 x 4 character LCD is only a few bucks and would output the results perfectly, It seems like a great upgrade.
How good will this work on curtain shutters? I have a minolta (SRT 101b) with a bit of shutter capping (left side of the picture is darker at high speeds) and this could help to check if speeds are right.
@@CAMERADACTYLCameras Nice, thanks for the reply. I'll try then getting a laser emitter and detector then and see if I can adjust the speed even if so slightly. If I can't do much, I'll wait for that product you mentioned.
So this set up will not work on Leica's? so a zorki4 is out then too?. Why won't this work with their shutter? thanks for the video parts in the cart for $8 but I need it for my zorki.
well, you can tell what the shutter speed is, but to calibrate a focal plane shutter like a leica or zorki, you need to take a measurement at both sides of the film gate, so that you can tell if one curtain is moving faster than the other. I need to make a video and post an update on the dual sensor version, but have my hands full at present. for now, buy a second laser and second laser sensor, that's the only hardware difference, the rest is software which I'll make available eventually
@@CAMERADACTYLCameras Thanks Chad ;) I will order the extra parts. I m not really trying to calibrate it just make sure the speeds are close right now anyway. I think your plate is stack pretty high! thanks!
Hi, I found this comment on another video: "Hello Keigo, I put together my shutter tester using Cameradactyl's hardware suggestions, but I found (like you) that fast shutter speeds were giving me some weird results. I think part of the issue is that on his code, he uses the interrupt to set flags, but he does the time capture inside the loop. I rewrote the code so the clock count (=time) is captured INSIDE the interrupt, and set a flag. Inside the loop I just check to see if that flag is set (i.e. there was a valid time measurement), and show the test results if that's the case. Hopefully it makes sense." Any info about this?
Anyone here in 2024? I bought an arduino uno, laser, phototransistor and LCD display. The code (cameradactyl) does not work! It freezes, crashes, the shutter speeds are inaccurate, it only shows 40-60/sec. Someone wrote here (Luigi, Javier) that it was modified since then, is there any new, updated code? Also, the video doesn't even mention the lcd oled display, is it already included in the code? (no). Please share recent information who has done it recently, don't let anyone tell me that it works! 3 years old code, my Arduino doesn't work! Someone help me please
Perhaps I am missing something, but I can't understand how this can be accurate at all, The processing speed of the Arduino isn't anywhere fast enough to execute every instruction without introducing latency far longer than a millisecond, let alone a microsecond. Perhaps this can explain why users think their shutter speeds are being measured slower than expected at the faster speeds? Has anyone tested this against a commercial shutter speed tester? Can the code be modified to compensate for latency by subtracting it from the measured time?
very nice, thank you! i'm eager to try this out but don't have the laser sensor available locally. do you think i could use an IR sensor/transmittor combo instead? or did you specifically choose laser for precision?
Hey, thanks for watching! I didnt try an IR sensor, but I did try a photodiode, which worked ok but not as well. I am specifically using lasers for a future project, where I will add another sensor to measure shutter speed on the leading and the trailing edge of the frame separately, allowing me to calibrate a dual curtain focal plane shutter that I am working on. I happen to have lasers and laser sensors around for other electronics projects, so that's what I used. check out ali-express, usually there's worldwide shipping, it just takes a bit of patience. If you try it with IR, let me know how it works!
@@CAMERADACTYLCameras ah yes, you mentioned the dual laser setup at the end. being able to measure dual curtain focal plane shutters is quite interesting indeed... i might as well test my patience and get both IR and laser modules on Ali and test them both back to back. will report back once i've tried. thanks again!
just about anything will do. breadboard wires are really fine gauge. I wouldn't use super fine magnet wire or anything like that, but it should work fine with anything you've got laying around.
Noobs may not know you are plugging into a USB not serial port, BTW. I get all my parts from www.Banggood.com. Back in the '80s, I did a bit of database programming so I'm curious why you are setting the variable FIRED and the Rising/Falling Flags to numbers (0/1) rather than logical TRUE or FALSE. Of course, both ways work but I am learning Arduino / Pi programming so just wondered... Or is that how Arduino code handles logical True/False? How does your code handle shutter speeds longer than one second? How accurate have you found this project to be? I ask because I have focal plane shutters (Nikon) that will go up to 1/1000th of a second. (Yes, you did mention dual focal plane shutters near the end.) Thank you for this. Now I can test all of my old large format camera shutters! Terry Thomas... the photographer Atlanta, Georgia USA
Yes, absolutely. You would need an LCD (or I prefer OLED) screen, the pin connections, and you're almost there. I would choose an I2C OLED for simplicity, and an appropriate driver library, and do an include (of the library) at the top, an initialization of the screen object in the void setup() section, and then instead of (or on top of) outputting the data to the serial monitor, you can output to the OLED/lcd screen by using whatever library appropriate command to output to your internal monitor. I've been hard at work on a few more camera related prototypes, but maybe when I am done with these in a few months I will update the github to take a dual sensor reading for calibrating dual curtain focal plane shutters (read: leicas and nikons and tigers and bears, oh my...) and I'll add an OLED component and maybe a battery charger and regulator to the project.
Anyone here in 2024? I bought an arduino uno, laser, phototransistor and LCD display. The code (cameradactyl) does not work! It freezes, crashes, the shutter speeds are inaccurate, it only shows 40-60/sec. Someone wrote here (Luigi, Javier) that it was modified since then, is there any new, updated code? Also, the video doesn't even mention the lcd oled display, is it already included in the code? (no). Please share recent information who has done it recently, don't let anyone tell me that it works! 3 years old code, my Arduino doesn't work! Someone help me please
Update: my laser unit just died, BUT - you can totally just use a flashlight or your phone's flashlight as the light source - it doesn't have to be red, or a laser. In fact a flashlight is easier to align with the detector, and it gives more accurate/consistent readings (that aren't so sensitive to beam centering errors).
I just made this, and it is super useful. This is a great tool. Of course, I've now verified that so many of my old cameras have slow shutters at the higher speeds. Thanks for doing all of this work and posting it online.
glad to be of service!
I go this to work today, I want to add a 16x2 Lcd display to use it as a stand-alone tool. Thanks for the code Ethan!
Thank you for this tutorial. I don't think I've ever seen a
tutorial where I could sit down watch the video
and get all the information I need from the tutorial. Also I'm surprised this
video only has 9000 views considering how useful it is
It will work well, Thank you for this!!!
Small tip: If you using big format lenses shutter (leaf shutter), just change last 8 line to this:
void CLOCK(){
if(digitalRead(2) == LOW){
Risingflag = 1;
}
if(digitalRead(2) == HIGH){
Fallingflag =1;
}
}
Great little project, thank you.
I modified the script to pulse the laser on/off in order to test it at higher speeds. According to my script the "Speed" reported is 30 or 40 microseconds long. I can't tell if that's because of inaccuracies in the delay function or overhead somewhere else.
Found the parts on eBay in the UK and was able to get this working nicely. Now I can mod the shutter in my Brownie to be something more useful than 1/45 sec.
Something odd with my setup. I had to reverse the "Clock," "Low" and "High." It was giving me time measurements for the time between shutter firing. e.i. If I waited 10 seconds between each firing, It would return a microsecond count of 10000000. I am pretty new to all of this, but I am guessing my sensor is acting opposite of yours, lowering the voltage when it is getting light. That is my best guess. Hopefully that helps someone else that might be running into this problem. Thank You for the awesome tutorial. I have built a rough framework that holds the lasor and sensor about 10" apart. You just set the camera over the laser and fire. Still somekinks to work out as it is not so great for fixed lens cameras. Works great for camera bodies. Thanks again.
Thank you! i did not understand why my results were strange but then i saw your comment and reversed HIGH and LOW and now it works perfectly
Had the same problem, followed your tip now it works but results above 1/60 seem a bit suspect.
Hi Matthew, I have the same problem, but I am not a programmer. How can I change them. Can you share the code as the cloc reversed. Thank you
I just made this and a few things to note: The sensor lens needs to face the input/output pins otherwise it will burn up instantly. The sensors I got signal backwards. When lit the signal voltage goes low so I had to go in and change the interrupt values, then it worked fine. The sensors are also sensitive to all light, not just the laser so ambient lights can mess up your readings
Hey man. I built it and it worked like a charm. I figured out that my bronica sq 80mm lens has a really inconsistent shutter so that was awesome!
Just completed my build and it works perfectly! Thanks for this very detailed build guide and tutorial.
Great job and thank you for sharing this. I guess precise alignment of laser and sensor is critical.
This is amazing, Thanks for taking the time to guide step by step!!!
Nice use of simple components for sure! I'll build one of these for sure and put it inside my "box of many arduinos" containing other camera and darkroom related stuff :)
I would really like to see the code updated with a standalone monitor function though, but I might be able to add it myself. I am not a programmer at all, but I have found to be able to do small bits and pieces when I'm in desperate need of something I feel the need to have :)
Thank you lots!
ua-cam.com/video/clALye887X4/v-deo.html i found this one
I don't quite understand why you where not satisfied with photo diode - photo transistor basically opto-coupler pair. They are in use for quite a long time, also monitoring fast changes in different speed or position encoders.
Ok, if laser pairs are so available and cheap, probably easy to achieve measurement at bigger distance few centimeters e.g.
Distance may be main reason, I can agree with that.
The main loop() is entered every 2500 microseconds or so when using the Arduino IDE to compile and run the code. At least for me. That means if you break up the start and stop functions (which is how this is coded) so that you use more than one call into the loop() then any shutter speed faster than about 1/125 could be erroneous For certain this code will never read 1/1000 and I would not trust any 1/250 or 1/500 readings. Perhaps the Microchip Studio has different looping code. I am just learning how to use that. But, if you want to see accurate faster shutter speeds, then you need to redesign this to do all calculations inside the current loop when the trigger has fired off the ISR. And even that may not work because of the potential delay between the ISR and the loop() code.
Thank you! This was easy to put together.
muy bueno, sencillamente explicado... consulta que tan difícil es agregar al código que exporte las mediciones, los tiempos tomas a una txt.. un abrazo...
The problem with using a laser is that it can only measure at one point, when the shutter speed exceeds the flash sync it is a problem since it only measures the fraction of time of the shutter windows that passes through the center.
This is proper good engineering, thank you for sharing. Looking forward to more cool boring shit!
I've never tried Arduino stuff before. This looks like it might be a nice starting point. Question on the programming: is there a reason you used ints instead of booleans for the flags?
Pretty sure that you could use either, no difference in this instance.
Thanks so much, put this together and tested my camera collection, quite a few were out particularly at 500th and 1000th, interesting to note that the Nikons (FE2 and FM) were the best. Although there's no way i can tell what kind of life each camera had had before me. And a very little used Praktica PLC3 was very good still. Great device though, thank you. One thought, do you think the faster speeds (1000th to 4000th) are still easily within the accuracy of this device? I'm thinking yes, but wonder if anyone has any thoughts on this as most of my cameras had poor performance on these speeds.
Dennis Martin have you been able to test at higher speeds? How accurate is it? I put one together last night and it works with an LDR sensor as well (I don’t have a laser sensor on hand). It showed pretty accurate at lower speeds but once you reach 1/125 and up, it gets more and more off the mark. Not sure if it’s just the camera or if it’s the sensor, I’ll try another camera tonight to see if there’s any difference.
@@zammykoo I believe the response time of LDR's are way too slow, somewhere in the 20-40ms. That will only help you up to about 1/60 I believe. These laser sensors, which are transistors, measure in microseconds (us), much faster. At least that is my understanding.
The true shutter speed, in the case of for example a Nikon FM2 is not 1/4000, that is the total exposure time, the maximum speed is always 1/200 or 1/250 in the case of the FM2n which is the flash sync speed.
@@marcelocampoamor4761 So, I’m guessing they get this briefer exposure speed by narrowing the band of light that slides across the frame?
This is interesting, but what I'm actually interested in knowing is how reliable it is at fast speeds?
A few months ago I built one that uses white light and I can't seem to be able to get a proper reading at any speed over 1/250th... I do get data on my LCD screen (yep, I went the overly complicated route 😉) but the numbers are obviously off.
Top project, many thanks
Thank you for sharing the guide. It is useful.
Just wondering since this uses laser, will it damage old shutters? especially the cloth shutters.
Thank you again and keep up the great work.
this is a SUPER low power laser. It will not damage a shutter. If we used my 1200lb laser cutter, it would be a different story!
@@CAMERADACTYLCameras
Thank you for prompt response 😃
Ok I understand that you 😁
Wow just came across this and immediately ordered parts to build one.. This will be great for LF vintage shutters... BTW did you or anyone come up with some code to add a screen to this little unit..
Thanks man ,I will try it today did you ever makes the 3d printed holder?
Hi, first off, thanks for the tutorial. I have set it up and got it working but am now trying to add a LCD via i2c to display the serial output so I dont need to connect to a PC, I have VERY limited Arduino skills and I cant seem to integrate the sample serial output sketches to your sketch, any chance you might give it a go? Seeing as a 32 x 4 character LCD is only a few bucks and would output the results perfectly, It seems like a great upgrade.
How good will this work on curtain shutters? I have a minolta (SRT 101b) with a bit of shutter capping (left side of the picture is darker at high speeds) and this could help to check if speeds are right.
works just fine on curtain shutters. I have a product in the works with a left and right sensor for calibrating focal plane shutters precisely.
@@CAMERADACTYLCameras Nice, thanks for the reply. I'll try then getting a laser emitter and detector then and see if I can adjust the speed even if so slightly. If I can't do much, I'll wait for that product you mentioned.
@@CAMERADACTYLCameras Hi, did you ever finished that project?
Interesting video. Brilliant idea.
Thank you! Very great idea!
So this set up will not work on Leica's? so a zorki4 is out then too?. Why won't this work with their shutter? thanks for the video parts in the cart for $8 but I need it for my zorki.
well, you can tell what the shutter speed is, but to calibrate a focal plane shutter like a leica or zorki, you need to take a measurement at both sides of the film gate, so that you can tell if one curtain is moving faster than the other. I need to make a video and post an update on the dual sensor version, but have my hands full at present. for now, buy a second laser and second laser sensor, that's the only hardware difference, the rest is software which I'll make available eventually
@@CAMERADACTYLCameras Thanks Chad ;) I will order the extra parts. I m not really trying to calibrate it just make sure the speeds are close right now anyway. I think your plate is stack pretty high! thanks!
Hi, if I add the oled display, how to modify the Arduino program?
Hi, I found this comment on another video: "Hello Keigo,
I put together my shutter tester using Cameradactyl's hardware suggestions, but I found (like you) that fast shutter speeds were giving me some weird results.
I think part of the issue is that on his code, he uses the interrupt to set flags, but he does the time capture inside the loop.
I rewrote the code so the clock count (=time) is captured INSIDE the interrupt, and set a flag. Inside the loop I just check to see if that flag is set (i.e. there was a valid time measurement), and show the test results if that's the case. Hopefully it makes sense." Any info about this?
Hi there coould you share the link to that video or code?
@@Living4enthernity a little late but I saw it in this video ua-cam.com/video/HJVZcg2dByw/v-deo.html a comment by user Javier Romero
@@Living4enthernity sorry for the long delay: ua-cam.com/video/HJVZcg2dByw/v-deo.html
Anyone here in 2024? I bought an arduino uno, laser, phototransistor and LCD display. The code (cameradactyl) does not work! It freezes, crashes, the shutter speeds are inaccurate, it only shows 40-60/sec. Someone wrote here (Luigi, Javier) that it was modified since then, is there any new, updated code? Also, the video doesn't even mention the lcd oled display, is it already included in the code? (no). Please share recent information who has done it recently, don't let anyone tell me that it works! 3 years old code, my Arduino doesn't work! Someone help me please
Hey! You cool men! Thank you.
Amazing idea
Perhaps I am missing something, but I can't understand how this can be accurate at all, The processing speed of the Arduino isn't anywhere fast enough to execute every instruction without introducing latency far longer than a millisecond, let alone a microsecond. Perhaps this can explain why users think their shutter speeds are being measured slower than expected at the faster speeds? Has anyone tested this against a commercial shutter speed tester? Can the code be modified to compensate for latency by subtracting it from the measured time?
What have you done to your yashica to allow manual shutter speed settings?
very nice, thank you! i'm eager to try this out but don't have the laser sensor available locally. do you think i could use an IR sensor/transmittor combo instead? or did you specifically choose laser for precision?
Hey, thanks for watching! I didnt try an IR sensor, but I did try a photodiode, which worked ok but not as well. I am specifically using lasers for a future project, where I will add another sensor to measure shutter speed on the leading and the trailing edge of the frame separately, allowing me to calibrate a dual curtain focal plane shutter that I am working on. I happen to have lasers and laser sensors around for other electronics projects, so that's what I used. check out ali-express, usually there's worldwide shipping, it just takes a bit of patience. If you try it with IR, let me know how it works!
@@CAMERADACTYLCameras ah yes, you mentioned the dual laser setup at the end. being able to measure dual curtain focal plane shutters is quite interesting indeed... i might as well test my patience and get both IR and laser modules on Ali and test them both back to back. will report back once i've tried. thanks again!
That is interesting! I’m going to build it! Do you think is possible to use without pc adding a monitor?
I know it is!
CAMERADACTYL Cameras do you have chance to explain how?
@@KeigoMoriyama maybe in another video, or maybe in a new product
Hello.. May I know what is max shutter speed that we can measure with this laser
thank you！
the early signs of chad
Do I need any special gauge of wire or will any do? Sorry for the newb question. I don't think I saw a link for them...
just about anything will do. breadboard wires are really fine gauge. I wouldn't use super fine magnet wire or anything like that, but it should work fine with anything you've got laying around.
Noobs may not know you are plugging into a USB not serial port, BTW.
I get all my parts from www.Banggood.com.
Back in the '80s, I did a bit of database programming so I'm curious why you are setting the variable FIRED and the Rising/Falling Flags to numbers (0/1) rather than logical TRUE or FALSE. Of course, both ways work but I am learning Arduino / Pi programming so just wondered... Or is that how Arduino code handles logical True/False?
How does your code handle shutter speeds longer than one second?
How accurate have you found this project to be? I ask because I have focal plane shutters (Nikon) that will go up to 1/1000th of a second. (Yes, you did mention dual focal plane shutters near the end.)
Thank you for this. Now I can test all of my old large format camera shutters!
Terry Thomas...
the photographer
Atlanta, Georgia USA
Would it be relatively simple to output the data to an LCD screen, so the whole thing could be made stand-alone?
Yes, absolutely. You would need an LCD (or I prefer OLED) screen, the pin connections, and you're almost there. I would choose an I2C OLED for simplicity, and an appropriate driver library, and do an include (of the library) at the top, an initialization of the screen object in the void setup() section, and then instead of (or on top of) outputting the data to the serial monitor, you can output to the OLED/lcd screen by using whatever library appropriate command to output to your internal monitor. I've been hard at work on a few more camera related prototypes, but maybe when I am done with these in a few months I will update the github to take a dual sensor reading for calibrating dual curtain focal plane shutters (read: leicas and nikons and tigers and bears, oh my...) and I'll add an OLED component and maybe a battery charger and regulator to the project.
@@CAMERADACTYLCameras any chance to have a modified sketch with I2C serial monitor?
Check out this other UA-cam video where an Arduino is used to display shutter speeds:
ua-cam.com/video/T6qAvnkU-c0/v-deo.html
can i use any microcontroler like ordinary arduino
yep
Anyone here in 2024? I bought an arduino uno, laser, phototransistor and LCD display. The code (cameradactyl) does not work! It freezes, crashes, the shutter speeds are inaccurate, it only shows 40-60/sec. Someone wrote here (Luigi, Javier) that it was modified since then, is there any new, updated code? Also, the video doesn't even mention the lcd oled display, is it already included in the code? (no). Please share recent information who has done it recently, don't let anyone tell me that it works! 3 years old code, my Arduino doesn't work! Someone help me please
What’s the purpose of “one-Mississippi” in all this 😂 ???
Such an electronic system gives a very, very inaccurate result. Laser + lens + photoresistor = bad combination. ;)
And where's your proof?
@@donniebunkerboi9975Not mine. This is physics. 😂