I love all of your videos, so much intellectual, easy to understand information ! Well explained, and thorough. Quick question, based on this video. With ripple being "alive" in the wires from esc to motor, is it more logical to have shorter wires or longer wires? Is it a matter of less current being present in shorter wires, so less of an impact to the capacitors upon the backflow (off power current flow direction)? Shorter wires/less current heading back to the caps seems logical to extend the caps life or am i backwards in my thinking and longer motor wires are the way to go? Thank you and I really do appreciate your vids !!!
Thanks for the comment Mike! When it comes to wire length, shorter is always better. ESC to motor wires are not as critical as Battery to ESC. Current is not the critical component that destroys the caps in an ESC. It's ripple voltage that does. To reduce ripple voltage keep wires from the battery to ESC as short as possible. Factory wire lengths are acceptable. Also, use an appropriately selected LiPo battery for your power system. ua-cam.com/video/54bb9zpDdZU/v-deo.html
Thank you for sharing. I suggest next time, you explain it together with the actual ESC and motor. Also, may I request on your next video about timing angle and start mode punch on a ESC. I am your follower by the way. Can you greet me on next video? Thank you. Keep safe.
Tq for all information on ur channel.. ive just started into this hobby.. it helped me a lot.. i can compare ur channel quality is like engineeringexplained but rc version
In my case, the ESCs were destroyed as the motor was too weak(2215 motor for a 400 brushed class-doesn't work) or the multicopter prop hit the ground as I couldn't get a suitable prop fence.
You forgot the most common way to destroy an ESC. * Plugging the ESC to the battery with the poles reversed! Believe it or not you can force polarized plugs together just enough for current to flow, SPARKS FLY, and VOILA, instant SMOKE!!
I've accidently pushed an XT-60 connector in close to a battery. If you don't realize the poles reversed, you can force the connectors close, but not into the other gender, and if they only connect for a split second, the ESC is destroyed. It's happened when I was in a hurry and the battery was in an awkward position. It wouldn't fit so I tried to force it.
I've been watching video about destroy the ESC I've connected the battery to ESC the wrong way will it ditroy ESC strait away I'm new to this I no positive and negative I was not thinking so yes does it damage the ESC will motor be OK
I own a Traxxas Spartan and it has an esc with 2 connectors. I recently received 2 lipo 6s battery packs and when I first plugged them in the esc started to smoke a little and now the rudder works, but not the motor. Do you know anything about that?
iv been charge my lipo maybe over charge, and then my esc just blink blink, and dont have power supply to reciever, the reciever is off, is that mean the esc damage or just error?
Rayan, I've watched most of your videos. Just getting into Electric Brushless Motors for RC BOATS..... I really don't know how to match up the 3 components Motor, ESC, & Battery. For the most part I'll be using the 150A-180A Marine Water Cooled ESC.... the issue I have is determining the Motor Size and Battery. Boats like a good range of BURST, so as a Minimum I looking a 50C which I believe is a 100C BURST, and up. The motor selection is the real issue,,, Do I go for HIGHEST RPM UNLOADED, or what? I try and see what other people are using as a general guide, but monkey see monkey do, isn't ALWAYS advisable, and as far as I know there isn't a Boat Motor Scale that's published for general reference. Like is it better to run 3S 11.1 volt or 4s 14.8 volts, etc., Also the Motor Mgf. show the Motor operating Voltage, do I try and get as close to it as possible? There you have it, I believe Planes and Cars have motor size recommendations... where as a 38" Boat kit has no motor recommendation single or twin motor. Any help in Selecting a motor for RC BOATING would be helpful, I realize 35,000-45,000 RPM is allot unloaded, but the Weight & Drag on the boat in the water in real term problem is actually running of of what maybe 50% of that unloaded rpm once it's in the water? Any assistance would really help for those of us, starting out in RC Electric Boating. Thanks, really enjoy your Video.
Hello. Thank you for your comment. Please visit the radiocontrolinfo website. I have there plenty of information for selecting a proper power system for an RC boat. There's definitely charted information to help make selections easier. Check it out and let me know if it helps. There will be videos on power system selection in the future.
Our rig rolls for about 5 secs, then cuts out. Thought it was lv cut-out. Got new batteries with larger reserve. Same problem. :sigh: not sure what has cooked it. Maybe the hammer effect. Maybe from sitting unused.
@rcexplained Just a thought, surely a 40A ESC having 38A load will get hotter than say a 50A ESC. Thus reducing the risk of failure and better performance? Or is the difference minimal? Come to think of it, the physics would be the same, same voltage, current = same dissipation of heat?
40A ESC will theoretically get hotter than a 50A ESC with a 38A load. GEnerally, larger capacity ESC's are physically bigger in size adding to the surface area to dissipate heat. This alone keeps them at a lower temperature. In addition larger capacity ESC's have lower internal resistance thus decreasing the losses at the same current level vs a smaller rated ESC.
Halo man. Thanks for making and sharing this videos with us. Am having trouble with my esc and wondering if u can help. Its a quicrun 1060 runing a rc4wd 80t brushed motor on 3s. The thing is am geting almost 40 degrees celcius on the esc just beeing turn on not even mooving.. Its hoocked on a fly sky 3ch fs-a3 reciver with a standard servo and a gc301 gyro. Thats it. Do you know what could be wrong?
@@RCexplained At 100 celcius goes to protection mode. I thing i found the problem.. whenever i connect the powerfull external fan i have for the esc to the receiver it makes the esc hot. 54 celcius without moving the car.. I think the fan draws to much current from the receiver making the esc struggling to keep up the operating voltage making it hot.. What do you think? maybe an external bec or a second battery just for the fan and led's? Any recommended bec's that are cheap easy to use and tunable to multible voltage?
@@RCexplained Yes, I agree! The BEC circuit seems to generate a lot of heat ESPECIALLY if it is a linear circuit (not a switching one). Maybe you want to measure the amp draw and compare it to your ESC data sheet.
I have a question. I have a 45a esc and 4300kv motor currently running on 1500mah 35c 2s lipo. I was thinking to plug in 3s since my esc is compatible. What if i use 2500mah 60c 3s , will it damage my esc because my esc just 45a
It will only destroy the ESC if you draw more than 45A. What you will need to do is load your setup correctly to make certain you do not exceed the 45A rating.
Having a battery that can deliver more current then the ESC can handle is okay because the ESC can only pull the Amps it needs and will never be overloaded within normal operation. It becomes dangerous when the battery is not up to spec to the esc and motor needs...
I'm not sure I understand your question. What are you trying to do with forward and reverse? A car ESC will be able to run in both directions. Most ESC's can reverse the motors direction of rotation through programming if it is spinning in the wrong direction.
RCexplained my application is for slow speed boat which needs forward and backward movement with brushless motor with ESC. I need forward in slow to fast speed with the help of ESC and backward direction same as about just to push throttle stick in TX. I see some brushless motor specify CCW in spec. Is this meaning that motor only runs CCW direction?
Hi there! I have a wltoys A959-B and these things are fast and fun. But the thing is they break pretty easily. I was playing with mine in the snow and then a puff of smoke and car would not drive anymore, servo not working. The only thing showing is on light on esc. I don't know what to replace to get it running
It seems that the 3 elemets that can cause degradation could EASILY br monitored by electronic means thus preventing damge to an ESC ! WHY HASN"t the manufacturer provided such protection ?
Thank you for the very informative video! I recently started building RC plane and I want to know whether I chose a right combination of the power system. I have a brushless motor with a maximum current draw of 11 V (using 7 in prop, according to manual,) 20A ESC, and 2S 450mAh 25C LiPo battery. Using a formula, 450mAh/1000 * 25C = 11.25 A can be drawn from battery, right? If I am using 6 inch prop, is the battery current too small for ESC and motor?
@@RCexplained Yes, I meant 11A, thank you for the correction. The motor I used is EMAX MT1806 2280KV. I saw the spec on Altitude Hobbies website. In the spec sheet, it was using 3 blade 7x4.5 prop and it draws 11.2A. Is the power system okay to use?
@@RCexplained I see, thanks for the info! So how much the battery amperage has to be stronger to be safe? Like 15A or more, or even 20 A? Can the battery current larger than ESC rating? I am building the plane to aim under 0.55 lbs, so I would like to keep the battery weight as low as possible.
The rated continuous current output of the battery can be much higher then the rating of any other component. I try to aim for 50 to 100% more current then what is planned to be drawn. To do this you would need to know your system is going to draw 11A for example. Then multiply by 1.5 to 2.0 to get max current for the battery pack. Then divide by the capacity of your pack to get the C rating. Hopefully all of this is easy to follow.
I have a question, i purchased two identical esc's for my plane. The amp rating on the esc was 30 amps continuous and it could take 4s max. I used a 3500mAh 60c 3s lipo in both and one burnt out instantly. i purchased a third one with identical specs thinking that it was a fault, and after plugging in the same battery for the second time, it burnt out too. Is it the c rating on the battery thats doing this or is it just 2 unlucky esc's. THanks.
@@RCexplained So im running to EDF's with a seperate ESC for each, one works fine, ive tried both motors with the working ESC and it fine, just gets a little hot on full throttle. The ESC burnt up after plugging it in to the battery. I'm guessing its two faulty ESC's
@@RCexplained im not actually sure, it says goolrc, I ordered another one, it works fine, it was just two unlucky ones, if anything goes wtong again ill just use a hobbywing skywalker,
Hey guys here's an open invitation to participate in a virtual Fun Fly in Real Flight Multiplayer 1/25/22 field "Montana Madness" every Tuesday night 9pm-10:15pm. It's a lot of fun with RC pilots from all over the world. Spread the word.
You need to go back to basic electrical theory. Electron flow is nothing like the flow of a mass of water and does not do anything like you are saying about destroying your esc if the flow continuously stops suddenly, repeatedly. Ripple can damage capacitors if it exceeds their limits for voltage. Nothing to do with a current hammer effect. While I am being a pain in the arse. You should stop saying current causes the heating in wires and motors. It is actually the resistance to the flow that causes the heating. It is incorrect. If the conductor is sufficiently big enough and short enough (i.e little resistance) there is negligible heating from a very large current flow.
Inductance is a very well-known and taught phenomenon in electronics. It is very much considered a basic. The water hammer analogy is often used in engineering to describe this effect as it is quite easy to understand.
i just appreciate the hard work to make a video.....because i do understand.
Thanks for the comment!
Man this is music to my ears I watched a lots of videos, nothing comes close to the way you have explained ripple voltage
Hey Rajesh Pais, Thanks a ton for you comment, it means a lot to me!
I love all of your videos, so much intellectual, easy to understand information ! Well explained, and thorough. Quick question, based on this video. With ripple being "alive" in the wires from esc to motor, is it more logical to have shorter wires or longer wires? Is it a matter of less current being present in shorter wires, so less of an impact to the capacitors upon the backflow (off power current flow direction)?
Shorter wires/less current heading back to the caps seems logical to extend the caps life or am i backwards in my thinking and longer motor wires are the way to go? Thank you and I really do appreciate your vids !!!
Thanks for the comment Mike! When it comes to wire length, shorter is always better. ESC to motor wires are not as critical as Battery to ESC. Current is not the critical component that destroys the caps in an ESC. It's ripple voltage that does. To reduce ripple voltage keep wires from the battery to ESC as short as possible. Factory wire lengths are acceptable. Also, use an appropriately selected LiPo battery for your power system.
ua-cam.com/video/54bb9zpDdZU/v-deo.html
Thank you for sharing. I suggest next time, you explain it together with the actual ESC and motor.
Also, may I request on your next video about timing angle and start mode punch on a ESC. I am your follower by the way. Can you greet me on next video? Thank you. Keep safe.
Tq for all information on ur channel.. ive just started into this hobby.. it helped me a lot.. i can compare ur channel quality is like engineeringexplained but rc version
Thanks for the comment Aliff!
In my case, the ESCs were destroyed as the motor was too weak(2215 motor for a 400 brushed class-doesn't work) or the multicopter prop hit the ground as I couldn't get a suitable prop fence.
You forgot the most common way to destroy an ESC. * Plugging the ESC to the battery with the poles reversed! Believe it or not you can force polarized plugs together just enough for current to flow, SPARKS FLY, and VOILA, instant SMOKE!!
Can you list the connectors this is possible for? This could be a video topic as I've never seen this happen.
I've accidently pushed an XT-60 connector in close to a battery. If you don't realize the poles reversed, you can force the connectors close, but not into the other gender, and if they only connect for a split second, the ESC is destroyed. It's happened when I was in a hurry and the battery was in an awkward position. It wouldn't fit so I tried to force it.
I like your videos. You explain shit well. Thumbs up 👍🍻
I've been watching video about destroy the ESC I've connected the battery to ESC the wrong way will it ditroy ESC strait away I'm new to this I no positive and negative I was not thinking so yes does it damage the ESC will motor be OK
I own a Traxxas Spartan and it has an esc with 2 connectors. I recently received 2 lipo 6s battery packs and when I first plugged them in the esc started to smoke a little and now the rudder works, but not the motor. Do you know anything about that?
Without seeing how everything has been plugged in, it's tough to say. Smoke does suggest something is permanently damaged.
I fried a esc by attempting to plug in battery but plug was reversed and even though it didn't fit, it arked just enough to fry it.
how do I stop 6s esc from burning even with a 4s battery? I burned 4 esc and I burned them when I changed batterys
iv been charge my lipo maybe over charge, and then my esc just blink blink, and dont have power supply to reciever, the reciever is off, is that mean the esc damage or just error?
Rayan, I've watched most of your videos. Just getting into Electric Brushless Motors for RC BOATS..... I really don't know how to match up the 3 components Motor, ESC, & Battery.
For the most part I'll be using the 150A-180A Marine Water Cooled ESC.... the issue I have is determining the Motor Size and Battery. Boats like a good range of BURST, so as a Minimum I looking a 50C which I believe is a 100C BURST, and up. The motor selection is the real issue,,, Do I go for HIGHEST RPM UNLOADED, or what? I try and see what other people are using as a general guide, but monkey see monkey do, isn't ALWAYS advisable, and as far as I know there isn't a Boat Motor Scale that's published for general reference. Like is it better to run 3S 11.1 volt or 4s 14.8 volts, etc.,
Also the Motor Mgf. show the Motor operating Voltage, do I try and get as close to it as possible? There you have it, I believe Planes and Cars have motor size recommendations... where as a 38" Boat kit has no motor recommendation single or twin motor. Any help in Selecting a motor for RC BOATING would be helpful, I realize 35,000-45,000 RPM is allot unloaded, but the Weight & Drag on the boat in the water in real term problem is actually running of of what maybe 50% of that unloaded rpm once it's in the water? Any assistance would really help for those of us, starting out in RC Electric Boating. Thanks, really enjoy your Video.
Hello. Thank you for your comment. Please visit the radiocontrolinfo website. I have there plenty of information for selecting a proper power system for an RC boat. There's definitely charted information to help make selections easier. Check it out and let me know if it helps.
There will be videos on power system selection in the future.
Our rig rolls for about 5 secs, then cuts out. Thought it was lv cut-out. Got new batteries with larger reserve. Same problem. :sigh: not sure what has cooked it. Maybe the hammer effect. Maybe from sitting unused.
There are many possible reasons as to why it cuts out. have you tried another ESC to rule this out?
@rcexplained Just a thought, surely a 40A ESC having 38A load will get hotter than say a 50A ESC. Thus reducing the risk of failure and better performance? Or is the difference minimal?
Come to think of it, the physics would be the same, same voltage, current = same dissipation of heat?
40A ESC will theoretically get hotter than a 50A ESC with a 38A load. GEnerally, larger capacity ESC's are physically bigger in size adding to the surface area to dissipate heat. This alone keeps them at a lower temperature. In addition larger capacity ESC's have lower internal resistance thus decreasing the losses at the same current level vs a smaller rated ESC.
Halo man. Thanks for making and sharing this videos with us. Am having trouble with my esc and wondering if u can help. Its a quicrun 1060 runing a rc4wd 80t brushed motor on 3s. The thing is am geting almost 40 degrees celcius on the esc just beeing turn on not even mooving.. Its hoocked on a fly sky 3ch fs-a3 reciver with a standard servo and a gc301 gyro. Thats it. Do you know what could be wrong?
Hey Mike, thank you for your comment! Do you know what the maximum temperature of he ESC is? What temperature does the ESC get to when in normal use?
@@RCexplained At 100 celcius goes to protection mode. I thing i found the problem.. whenever i connect the powerfull external fan i have for the esc to the receiver it makes the esc hot. 54 celcius without moving the car.. I think the fan draws to much current from the receiver making the esc struggling to keep up the operating voltage making it hot.. What do you think? maybe an external bec or a second battery just for the fan and led's? Any recommended bec's that are cheap easy to use and tunable to multible voltage?
@@need4drift it sounds like your fan is placing too much stress on the BEC circuit in the ESC. If so I would use an external BEC.
@@RCexplained Ok then. Cheers!
@@RCexplained Yes, I agree! The BEC circuit seems to generate a lot of heat ESPECIALLY if it is a linear circuit (not a switching one). Maybe you want to measure the amp draw and compare it to your ESC data sheet.
I have a question. I have a 45a esc and 4300kv motor currently running on 1500mah 35c 2s lipo. I was thinking to plug in 3s since my esc is compatible. What if i use 2500mah 60c 3s , will it damage my esc because my esc just 45a
It will only destroy the ESC if you draw more than 45A. What you will need to do is load your setup correctly to make certain you do not exceed the 45A rating.
Having a battery that can deliver more current then the ESC can handle is okay because the ESC can only pull the Amps it needs and will never be overloaded within normal operation. It becomes dangerous when the battery is not up to spec to the esc and motor needs...
Can you put a 45+esc on a 20amp car ?
what about using a motor with a too big difference in the coils resistance
Hey Alex. That would not be a smooth running motor. Definitely not good in general.
Hi regarding tip 3 I have rc boat with water cooling in process, so esc to be closer to motor or batter , wiring thanks
Don't extend battery to esc leads
@@RCexplained thanks mate will do that
Great informative Vid 👌
Thanks Jason!
Does ESC need special programming for forward and reverse of brushless motor connect to? If so how is done? What to buy to do so?
I'm not sure I understand your question. What are you trying to do with forward and reverse? A car ESC will be able to run in both directions. Most ESC's can reverse the motors direction of rotation through programming if it is spinning in the wrong direction.
RCexplained my application is for slow speed boat which needs forward and backward movement with brushless motor with ESC. I need forward in slow to fast speed with the help of ESC and backward direction same as about just to push throttle stick in TX. I see some brushless motor specify CCW in spec. Is this meaning that motor only runs CCW direction?
A ccw motor more than likely means the shaft is designed to tighten the nut in a specific direction. Brushless motors will operate in both directions.
Hi there! I have a wltoys A959-B and these things are fast and fun. But the thing is they break pretty easily. I was playing with mine in the snow and then a puff of smoke and car would not drive anymore, servo not working. The only thing showing is on light on esc. I don't know what to replace to get it running
Esc i think
Mine got water damaged and the esc is flashing really fast
@@sigmamale900 thanks but this was 2 years ago...
It seems that the 3 elemets that can cause degradation could EASILY br monitored by electronic means thus preventing damge to an ESC ! WHY HASN"t the manufacturer provided such protection ?
Thank you for the very informative video! I recently started building RC plane and I want to know whether I chose a right combination of the power system.
I have a brushless motor with a maximum current draw of 11 V (using 7 in prop, according to manual,) 20A ESC, and 2S 450mAh 25C LiPo battery. Using a formula, 450mAh/1000 * 25C = 11.25 A can be drawn from battery, right? If I am using 6 inch prop, is the battery current too small for ESC and motor?
What are the details of the motor? kv? size? The current draw you listed has the units of volts, did you mean 11A?
@@RCexplained Yes, I meant 11A, thank you for the correction. The motor I used is EMAX MT1806 2280KV. I saw the spec on Altitude Hobbies website. In the spec sheet, it was using 3 blade 7x4.5 prop and it draws 11.2A. Is the power system okay to use?
@@ybraiders549 the battery is your weakest link and under full load will be pushed very hard.
@@RCexplained I see, thanks for the info! So how much the battery amperage has to be stronger to be safe? Like 15A or more, or even 20 A? Can the battery current larger than ESC rating? I am building the plane to aim under 0.55 lbs, so I would like to keep the battery weight as low as possible.
The rated continuous current output of the battery can be much higher then the rating of any other component. I try to aim for 50 to 100% more current then what is planned to be drawn. To do this you would need to know your system is going to draw 11A for example. Then multiply by 1.5 to 2.0 to get max current for the battery pack. Then divide by the capacity of your pack to get the C rating. Hopefully all of this is easy to follow.
I have a question, i purchased two identical esc's for my plane. The amp rating on the esc was 30 amps continuous and it could take 4s max. I used a 3500mAh 60c 3s lipo in both and one burnt out instantly. i purchased a third one with identical specs thinking that it was a fault, and after plugging in the same battery for the second time, it burnt out too. Is it the c rating on the battery thats doing this or is it just 2 unlucky esc's. THanks.
Is your plane a twin and one of the motor/ESC's is working well? Did the ESC burn up just when plugging it in before spinning up the motor?
@@RCexplained So im running to EDF's with a seperate ESC for each, one works fine, ive tried both motors with the working ESC and it fine, just gets a little hot on full throttle. The ESC burnt up after plugging it in to the battery. I'm guessing its two faulty ESC's
It's not common for an ESC to burn up after plugging it in. What ESC is it?
@@RCexplained im not actually sure, it says goolrc,
I ordered another one, it works fine, it was just two unlucky ones, if anything goes wtong again ill just use a hobbywing skywalker,
I would replace with an ESC that has reliability that you are comfortable with. ESC failures take jets out of the sky.
My motor cant throttle..servo can turn...is it esc problem?..i can feel the heat from my esc..
1st i use 1900kv motor, then i change with 3200kv motor and use the same esc..use lipo 3s 2200 mah..is it the root cause of esc overheat and fail..?
You apply throttle and the motor doesn't rotate at all?
I’m at my grandmas and my mini just burnt out while inside at 10:35 pm while everyone is asleeep
Hey guys here's an open invitation to participate in a virtual Fun Fly in Real Flight Multiplayer 1/25/22 field "Montana Madness" every Tuesday night 9pm-10:15pm. It's a lot of fun with RC pilots from all over the world. Spread the word.
Battery sorry
You need to go back to basic electrical theory. Electron flow is nothing like the flow of a mass of water and does not do anything like you are saying about destroying your esc if the flow continuously stops suddenly, repeatedly. Ripple can damage capacitors if it exceeds their limits for voltage. Nothing to do with a current hammer effect.
While I am being a pain in the arse. You should stop saying current causes the heating in wires and motors. It is actually the resistance to the flow that causes the heating. It is incorrect. If the conductor is sufficiently big enough and short enough (i.e little resistance) there is negligible heating from a very large current flow.
Inductance is a very well-known and taught phenomenon in electronics. It is very much considered a basic. The water hammer analogy is often used in engineering to describe this effect as it is quite easy to understand.
dont worry i will crash that before i make my esc suffer haha
Fck sake another bardwell.
I just destroyed one lol
Oh no!