Відео

I'm not sure what you mean. I would have to do an in-person inspection to give you a specific answer. I am not available for that. Backsplashes are not all the same. The cap is usually glued on during the installation of the backsplash. Sometimes it is even nailed (old style). Usually, to get the metal off, you would have to remove the backsplash too. Thank you!

When I am working with a large piece on a vertical surface, I position the sheet while the adhesive is still soft, before it dries completely. I just get it in place without rolling it so the adhesive can still breathe. After the adhesive has a chance to set up, the sheet can be rolled. Water-based adhesive is more forgiving than solvent-based. That's how I do tub or shower surrounds, wainscot, and full-height backsplashes. Thank you!

@@elbowshots thank you so much!😊

Thank you! I have done a few countertops over the last 40 years.

Thank you! My preference is to be seamless as much as possible. Sometimes you can't get away from it. If the sub-top has a joint in it, and the laminate also requires a seam, it's best to keep at least 3 inches of separation. Stacking joints on top of each other creates a weak point. If the sub-top has a joint in it and the laminate is seamless, I give it a once-over with the belt sander to make sure it's flat. Thanks!

@elbowshots that's great! I wasn't sure if going over the tip of a joint on the sub surface might make the laminate crack easier.. my bench is in a caravan. Thanks!

Thank you! You might find this video interesting: ua-cam.com/video/eCiyDHyN92A/v-deo.html

It's my pleasure. Thank you!

Thank you! I'm happy you found it helpful.

Generally, I would leave an expansion gap and use a T-Moulding. When flooring expands and contracts, it moves in all directions with a lot of pressure. It may tend to buckle in areas where its movement is restricted. Hardwood installations that are butted to other floors, or door thresholds, are usually fastened to the sub-floor with nails/staples or glued down. Those are still subject to expansion but tend to have less lateral movement. Floating hardwood floors tend to move the most. There are some composite laminate floating floors that are very stable and can be installed with tighter tolerances. The size of the room plays a major role also. The bigger it is, the more it will expand. It is best to follow the manufacturers recommendations. They will usually know what people have not gotten away with. They have reps that go out in the field to investigate problems. So, they have a pretty good idea what works for their product and will put it in their literature. Thank you!

I'm not sure I understand your situation exactly. I have seen some older installations where the backsplash was installed before the decks, but they aren't usually too far below the sub-tops. Let's see if I can help you anyway. It may be possible to cut the laminate backsplash flush with the countertop by using the scoring tool and snapping it down. I have done that before. Then clean it up with a sharp chisel. I hope that helps. Thank you!

@@elbowshots Very kind of you to reply brother. That’s exactly what I’ll do. Thank you!

You're welcome. I was taught to place my straight-edge on my work and have the cut-off piece on the open side just in case that happens. Thank you!

Thank you! That's exciting to hear! You will absolutely love the shunting tool. The knee pads that I use are: ProKnee 0714 Custom Fit Knee Pads with 1 Inch Foam - amzn.to/3UvqmeA I resisted buying these for years because of the price. But when I started having more and more difficulty getting up from the floor, I decided to give them a try. From the very first day, I noticed the difference in the way my knees, ankles, and hips felt. Now, I won't wear anything else. Thanks again and good luck to you.

This is Armstrong Alterna tile. Color: Chalk Pattern: D4105 Thank you!

Thank you! Glad to hear it!

I haven't found anything that works as well as the two-inch slats. They give just the right amount of coverage and lift, and they stack nicely for storage. Some people use dowels or rods. In a pinch, I have cut strips of laminate. Another option might be to rip strips of vinyl plank. Whatever material you use, you want to make sure it will not leave any splinters or other debris behind. Thank you!

Thank you! Glad it was helpful!

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!

Thank you very much! I really appreciate it.

Thank you!

Thank you!

I cut my self-edge strips from the full sheets with a laminate slitter. I hope that answers your question. Thank you.

Thank you, Jakob! Yes, it is challenging to cut a miter seam. IMO, it also uses more material than necessary. Generally speaking, I only miter the corners if it will make a difference in the overall appearance of the countertop. An example would be if the laminate had a linear pattern, like a wood grain, that would look silly if quarter-turned. Whenever possible, I prefer to cut perpendicular seams. That said, what are some of the challenges you have had?

@@elbowshots I have found it tough to simply make the cut. Do you use your seaming board for that cut or some other method. Also, do you have any instruction on making a seaming board similar to the one that you use? Thanks again.

I definitely use my seaming board for seams longer than 6 inches. The longest seam I have cut was about 5 feet long. For that, I used my 6-foot straight-edge. Here is a reply to another viewer regarding miter seams: First, I would fit each piece to their respective wall. This will help give you fixed points to work from. It will stabilize each piece for marking. The walls may or may not be perpendicular to each other. Rather than try to cut a true 45, I usually run the miter from front corner to back corner. After the initial fit: If you are using a router with a half-inch bit, rough cut your sheets with one-quarter inch overhang past the diagonal line where your miter will be finished. One-quarter inch overhang on each piece allows for the half-inch path of the router bit. Once the seam is cut, you can do finer adjustments to the fit. The seaming board is simple enough. Two four-foot 1X3s, two nine-inch 2X4s. The 2X4s are glued and screwed 10 inches from the ends. Thank you!

@@elbowshots thank you so much, I will definitely use this to my advantage. Thank you for all your help!

It's hard to tell in this video, but these are 2" from a set I bought at a thrift store in the early 80's. They're still in use. Thank you!

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.

Thank you very much! I value efficiency.

I usually put the ends on first, then the fronts, then the decks. This video lays out my process of sequencing: ua-cam.com/video/u-rLTH5U5yk/v-deo.html Thank you!

I use 1 1/2" finish nails for the self-edge. Thank you!

@@elbowshots good job trying to do one myself

Best wishes on your project!

The tool is called a laminate slitter. Here is a link to one on Amazon: Laminate Slitter - amzn.to/3caVICb There are links in the description to the specialty tools I use. Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you! I recognize that some people may not understand some of the terms and/or techniques. The information is invaluable to others. This channel is meant to preserve knowledge that might otherwise be lost.

Thank you very much! That is awesome to hear! Using the laminate shears and a file, I can usually get close enough that a fine bead of caulking will blend the laminate into the wall. In the "Basics" video, I demonstrate the method I use. ua-cam.com/video/Urm6V0KyNOE/v-deo.html You may find your answer in the 17:00 - 18:30 section. The wall in that video is very rough, so it causes a thick wiggly line. Scribing to a smooth wall should give you a better line. Thank you.

The short answer is Yes, I have used heat and/or solvent to defeat the adhesive to remove laminate. I'm not sure why you would want to separate the sheets, though. It is highly unlikely that the bottom sheet is salvageable. There are usually better options. It isn't easy to do what you are asking. Thank you!

Yes, as quickly as possible. But seriously, I have no idea what kind of mistake you are talking about.

7:40 you point out that you forgot to trim wood flush. You fixed it no big deal. Btw, I've found your laminate vids to be the most helpful I've found. I just finished watching them all. I do wonder if you'd rather glue the laminate on a countertop already installed or do you sometimes build the top, glue on the laminate, and then install it on the cabinets. I'm in the process of making an 11' L-shaped counter and it sure seems like laminating it on a workbench would make it easier to trim up the corners and whatnot if not installed on cabinets between two walls. But am a little concerned about something cracking or chipping trying to move that large of a countertop into place. Do you prefer to glue on laminate after base countertop has installed on cabs? @@elbowshots

LOL I'm glad you clarified that. As a general rule of thumb, I prefer to have the sub-tops secured to the cabinets. It's easier for me to work on them that way. Everything stays more stable. When I have worked on tops that are not secured, I feel like I have to chase it around too much. There are some tips for handling large sheets in this video: ua-cam.com/video/u-rLTH5U5yk/v-deo.html Thank you!

Thank you! It's good to hear from folks like you. I really appreciate it.

@@elbowshots Your welcome buddy, keep them videos coming 🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾

Thank you! That is called a shunting tool. One place that I have found them online is: www.tools4flooring.com/taylor-tools-375-03-power-shunting-device.html

I'm happy to hear that. Thank you!

Thank you for watching! Best wishes on your project.

Based on your description of the condition of the substrate, I would say yes, you are ready to install new laminate. Sometimes, removing laminate from plywood pulls up large splinters from the face. You are fortunate to have a smooth surface. Thank you!

True, most people will not attempt laminate fabrication, so some of the bigger stores may not find it worth their time to deal with it. I usually get my laminate through floor-covering stores, cabinet shops, or independent lumber yards. I have seen Formica brand selling 4 X 8 sheets on Amazon. Thank you!

Thank you! I'm glad you found it helpful.

Thank you! I usually cut my self-edge strips from the full sheets when I am cutting pieces for the job. They are not available as a stand-alone product. An option that may work for you is to use hardwood strips. I have done countertops with oak or maple edging. Here is a link to a video where I used teak: ua-cam.com/video/eCiyDHyN92A/v-deo.html

Thak you! I'm happy to hear that you like it.

Sure, that makes sense. I have installed those corners in different sequences. It doesn't seem to make much difference. If it is a very short run, like less than two inches, I have put those on first. Usually, I tend to stick with the sequence of working from back to front. So, that little corner piece would be second. As long as the joints are filed smooth, there shouldn't be an issue. Thank you!

Glad it was helpful! Thank you!

Thank you! I appreciate that. Glad you enjoyed it.

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it.

Thank you! They are cute.

The adhesive is dry before assembly. The laminate is in full contact with the substrate, so the caulking does not get in between the two. It is only between the two sheets of laminate. When I compress the joint, the wet caulking takes the path of least resistance, which is to ooze up. If I compress the joint first, it is more difficult to fill the joint. The caulking has adhesive properties itself. Thank you!

Thank you very much! Glad it helped!

Installing laminate is not for the average person. These videos are directed to people who have a certain level of skill and experience. This video presumes the viewer has seen the basic laminate installation video: ua-cam.com/video/Urm6V0KyNOE/v-deo.html Thank you!

Thank you kindly! I appreciate it.

Wow! 20X the cost. I didn't realize stone was that much more. Thank you for the update.