A couple tips. It’s been a while but melt and pour does t stick to its self. U have to spray alcohol in between layers. To mix colors use 1/4 - 1/2 tap of alcohol and put ur oxide or mica in that. N yes spraying the bottom or the top will get rid of bubbles and make it smooth. A melt n pour goddess is Koala Soap’s. They are on UA-cam and Dean from Aussie Soap’s Supplies. He’s amazing. His melt n pours are like art! And Koala Soap she does beautiful elegant soap’s. She made a red rose from melt n pour then she took crystal clear melt n pour and put a tiny amount in the clear and the rose was in the clear melt n pour with the slightest sparkle. It was beautiful. I thought of Beauty n the Beast withe the enchanted rose in the glass. Or a winter red rose snow globe. U gotta check her and Dean out. They are the best MnP that I’ve ever seen!
Lol! So well said Matthew and isn't it sad?? Man, if only people would put all their negative energy into themselves the world would be SUCH a better place!
@@christeef6840 it is quite the bizarre world we live in isn't it where people seem to enjoy what divides us rather than unites. Thank you for your comment 😊
Pretty cool. I started with M&P. Then did HP because I wasn't sure of how to do CP. So far, I've done 2 successful batches of CP. They all have their place!
I do cold process for most of my soap and liquid soap. But I started with melt and pour and like how you get clear soap or my favorite, icy blue, that you can't with CP or HP
If you are a seasoned soap maker and familiar with all the various methods of soap making, you can absolutely make your own M&P from scratch to have on hand for projects. That way YOU control the ingredients in YOUR M&P and then yes, YOU are still the soap MAKER! It's all real soap...CP, HP, M&P, Soap paste, Liquid Soap.....
I do both and actually enjoy doing the M&P more because I can make my own molds using different shapes. Plus I like doing multiple colors and it's ready to use almost right away. Having everything prepped is best so I can go from one step to the next fairly seamlessly.
You are right. I’m making small thin dragons and only MP will work to create something like that. But suggest waiting longer like they say. 4-6 hours works really well to get a good hard MP soap bar or decorated soap. Great job.
SFIC is true melt and pour soap as it is made from oils and lye it is the cleanest one out there. There are Bases being sold as soap that are detergents, no lye. SFIC does not have the nasty chemicals most soap makers avoid. All the the “rules” we use for cp and hp don’t work for m&p. Temperature is the key to success with m&p. If your only doing 1 color put the color in the same bowl and your soap and it will somewhat mix as it melts. Also you can put your color in with your fragrance to get lumps out. Your cup was cold that is why soap set up so fast. Also as you saw the alcohol cause a skin to form faster on the hot soap. You could have microwaved the cup the get some of the soap out but it won’t get it all. Clean up is easy you can let it cool and then just peel it out of cup. M&P can only accept 5-6% (fragrance, clays, ground oats etc) of additional additives before you compromise the quality of the soap. The moisture was due to too much fragrance in that small amount of soap. I started with m&p then went on to CP then HP. They each have different ways to work them to get optimal results, there is a learning curve for sure. 4-6 hours sounds right for a loaf of m&p but single cavity molds set up faster. Love the skulls btw, and your videos!
Yer killin' me in this video Jon! And that monkey!! 😂🤣 #dead I've been making M&P for a long time and you most definitely can and should stir - esp when heating - so it doesn't burn or scald at the bottom (which microwaves are famous for). Just don't stir vigorously and you'll be fine. 30 sec bursts are correct and adding your colors and FO/EO's around 140* is ideal so you can pour around 130*. Mix well and pour right away. Also, if you are layering or adding more as you did here - always spray soap in the mold with alcohol first so the new soap pour adheres well to the soap already in the mold. Even with the learning curve these turned out great! ;)
I love the skulls!!!! I'm an HP and CP soap maker...I too get tired of doing the same thing all the time.i got too big for my britches and made clear M & P. It turned out okay but decided to buy it from the pro's out there. Thank you for sharing this video. Blessed Be!
Alcohol will cool it down. You want to pour it at around 125 to 130 degrees. Also, if it doesn't turn out right, wait until it completely cools, take it out of the mold and melt it down again. If you are adding to the top, spray it with alcohol to make it adhere to the other soap
Forgot to say that I’m very impatient also.I make cold process all the time and I keep unwrapping it and Peeking at it,I get so excited. I also tend to unmold them too soon at times so they’re kind of funny looking.
There is a place for M&P … and making specialty pieces like these skulls is definitely one of them. I think there are a ton of embeds that are best done with M&P as well. I love my CP and HP soap, but am certainly not a purist. I just haven’t had the opportunity to use it too much … but my business is less than a year old, so I’m sure I’ll get there lol … Great video Jon
M&P is real soap, it's just made by a different process...like HP, CP and CPOP. You can actually make your own M&P from scratch. You want to start stirring your chunks after the first blast so the soap continues to met evenly, elsewise you will end up burning your soap. Do NOT heat it to bubbling...it's soap, NOT soup. And just like with CP or HP, you need to mix your scent in well or you end up with those oil spots you saw on the surface. I haven't done a lot of M&P soap myself, but I made mistakes and learned from them.
What does annoy me is when people put ingredients that are going to go rancid (like breast milk) in MP soap and pretend it will cure skin issues somehow and other often unsafe 5 Minute Crafts type projects being advised. MP is great for intricate or fun designs and I don't believe syndet surfactants are somehow bad for skin either. It's just a shame how a lot of people spread misinformation about what soap can do in general and what you can put in already made MP soap (which aside from color and fragrance is very little).
Embeds with m&p are great. I'll still use m&p for little quick favors or rush orders for events when there's not enough time for cp. I stir when it's melting. But I will leave out a bit to see how the heat is before sticking backing into the micro. I did start with M&P before CP. Love both but am tired of the lovely gatekeepers that look down their noses at m&p. And yes, spray alcohol before and after pouring. Dean Wilson and Koala Soaps have a lot of great m&p videos here on UA-cam 🥰🧼
M&P you can put water in the molds then pour it into the container to measure the amount that you will need. Yeah there are elitists among the soap types.. its crazy. I used to only like hot process soap lol.
You really do have to stir. Have been making M&P a long time and if ya don't stir it can burn or scald very easily so surprised a big soap maker would say that - not good advice. And you have to stir in FO's, EO's, etc... There is some who think stirring will release bubbles which will affect the lather but that is false as well - at least the difference is so small that I have never seen it. ;)
Uncle John.. Lmao.. I COULDNT get trace in beginning.. Recently light bulb came on.. I was using potassium not sodium.. Sodium makes bars. Potassium is for liquid. Back then what did I do to succed. I watched you. You said something about salt.. So I added few grains. Boom hit trace immediately.. Lolol. I felt so stupid
First of all I NEVER use a microwave in my house I purchased a antique double boiler and it works the best I do this with my rebatch I make for curtain reasons I make my own melt and pour not buy from others. Jon make your own
I’ve done all 3 and cold process is my favorite for it’s flexibility. M&P just isn’t as satisfying for me… and I don’t like the part where I can’t fully control the ingredients in m&p. I’m not going to disparage anyone who uses m&p, but for me, personally, I just prefer cold process the best.
I started out with m p switched to cp even made my own mp. But it is not the same as cp I find it doesn't last as long as CP bar does. If you selling MP it should be listed as MP not handmade unless you make your own MP base Those are my big stinks with it
I know melt and pour is real soap. I just wish more people that use it wouldn’t call it “making soap”. Because they aren’t making soap…it’s already made. All they are doing is scenting, coloring…decorating soap.
@@unclejonssoap it's not important if your doing just one colour 👍 but multiple colours, taking temps saves your design from being screwed up... otherwise the colours morph together.
@@unclejonssoap The ideal pour temperature is 140°F. If you are doing a layered soap or embed soap, the ideal pour temperature is from 125°-130°F. Step 5: Spray with 99% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to pop any bubbles that have formed on the surface.
I agree with to each their own. You do you. THAT being said. We human people, pack animals and primitive brains and all created "language" as a better way to communicate. Just as paper money and coins are more convenient than having to trade items to get what you need or want. The human brain and also psychology understands what it knows, but if I hold up an item you don't know what it is and say a word you don't know, maybe in a foreign language, does that word mean the item ? - the color, shape, what it does? When words are used, the brain actually finds the related image, understanding happens, it's in micro-milliseconds, so you don't perceive it. But when someone else uses a word INCORRECT, confusion begins. This is the psychology of how arguments begin. To make something is understood as from scratch. A painting By an artist is an original, there's only one and it's price is based on it being rare. Reprints are Mass produced and cheaper because they are machine made and exactly the same. So by definition an organic artisanal Soap is made from scratch, using ingredients to create soap that even if they followed the exact same recipe and technique, EACH bar is going to be different, even in the same loaf batch. While Melt and Pour soap is a type of cleaner, depending on its components. So Let's Define cleaners. Originally we humans didn't use "sosp" we used Sand, Ash, and other abrasive stuff, there's what is believed how Soap was invented but this is not that debate. Making soap was done primarily to clean fabric and was too expensive for regular people because it was excessively taxed. Until it's usage and values were changed. There's that and the earlier settler's to the colonies that became the United States, figured out how to Mass make their own, it was inconsistent and not pleasant to use, and was all purpose used to bath with, clean dishes and laundry, But after machines and chemistry created the ability to replace costly ingredients the term or word SOAP stayed attached to things that are not true soap but detergent, what most non Soap making people buy to clean dishes, laundry, hands, body, hair and teeth, aren't soap but detergent. Hence the colloquial use of the word soap. This is also why there's an argument over terms applied for those who make or create some versions of cleaners. Organic Artisanal Soap is thought they make from scratch ingredients and molded however it's process is done. Melt and Pour might be soap but If it's your primary or only ingredient you didn't make it. To put it in understandable terms, a chef makes, prepared or cooked dinner. If you poured something out of a box you didn't make it, you reheated, rehydrated, or assembled dinner. Trust me. Ex husband asked for homemade mashed potatoes. I peeled, diced, sliced, and created the best mashed potatoes you ever had. His response, not like jis mother's. I called her. She used instant potatoes. IF you start out with ingredients careful prep, measure, and go through a process you made it. It's crafted. If you use Melt and Pour and you measure, put in scents, colors, and mold to create artistic designs that are more of a gift or display piece than is meant for everyday use, you get to claim artist status, because a painter or sculptor do not make the medium they created from. If you use a form of lye, that in measurements with a recipe for Oil or fat and Water and follow a process, you made soap. If you used a premade medium Such as Melt and Pour, you made Art. Maybe this will settle it. But just my thoughts and opinions.
Thanks for showing us all your mistakes we learn from our own and yours. Your the best❤️. My sons would love those I’m definitely going to try that
Love them!!!
Just spray with alcohol any bubbles for Melt and Pour. You are so good,you demystify soap making.😜😎
A couple tips. It’s been a while but melt and pour does t stick to its self. U have to spray alcohol in between layers. To mix colors use 1/4 - 1/2 tap of alcohol and put ur oxide or mica in that. N yes spraying the bottom or the top will get rid of bubbles and make it smooth. A melt n pour goddess is Koala Soap’s. They are on UA-cam and Dean from Aussie Soap’s Supplies. He’s amazing. His melt n pours are like art! And Koala Soap she does beautiful elegant soap’s. She made a red rose from melt n pour then she took crystal clear melt n pour and put a tiny amount in the clear and the rose was in the clear melt n pour with the slightest sparkle. It was beautiful. I thought of Beauty n the Beast withe the enchanted rose in the glass. Or a winter red rose snow globe. U gotta check her and Dean out. They are the best MnP that I’ve ever seen!
I just might have to give m&p a try!
I likes what I likes, they likes what they likes, I'm really not too worried, turns out the Internet can be a mean place, even when it comes to SOAP!
Lol! So well said Matthew and isn't it sad?? Man, if only people would put all their negative energy into themselves the world would be SUCH a better place!
@@christeef6840 it is quite the bizarre world we live in isn't it where people seem to enjoy what divides us rather than unites. Thank you for your comment 😊
Awesome! I’ve always wondered how molds like that would do with soap. Thanks for the tutorial 😊
Pretty cool. I started with M&P. Then did HP because I wasn't sure of how to do CP. So far, I've done 2 successful batches of CP. They all have their place!
Hey I just started with Melt and pour, I’m hoping to start selling soap! How is it going for you?
Yes, lol. When I use M & P, I stir between blasts. This was a very fun video!
I do cold process for most of my soap and liquid soap. But I started with melt and pour and like how you get clear soap or my favorite, icy blue, that you can't with CP or HP
If you are a seasoned soap maker and familiar with all the various methods of soap making, you can absolutely make your own M&P from scratch to have on hand for projects. That way YOU control the ingredients in YOUR M&P and then yes, YOU are still the soap MAKER! It's all real soap...CP, HP, M&P, Soap paste, Liquid Soap.....
I have been busy all day; thank you for your videos
I do both and actually enjoy doing the M&P more because I can make my own molds using different shapes. Plus I like doing multiple colors and it's ready to use almost right away. Having everything prepped is best so I can go from one step to the next fairly seamlessly.
You are right. I’m making small thin dragons and only MP will work to create something like that. But suggest waiting longer like they say. 4-6 hours works really well to get a good hard MP soap bar or decorated soap. Great job.
I love using M&P making embeds and using that with my C.P., its lots of fun
Love your videos and your humor! I use M&P for embeds on top of my CP...too cute!
SFIC is true melt and pour soap as it is made from oils and lye it is the cleanest one out there. There are Bases being sold as soap that are detergents, no lye. SFIC does not have the nasty chemicals most soap makers avoid. All the the “rules” we use for cp and hp don’t work for m&p. Temperature is the key to success with m&p. If your only doing 1 color put the color in the same bowl and your soap and it will somewhat mix as it melts. Also you can put your color in with your fragrance to get lumps out. Your cup was cold that is why soap set up so fast. Also as you saw the alcohol cause a skin to form faster on the hot soap. You could have microwaved the cup the get some of the soap out but it won’t get it all. Clean up is easy you can let it cool and then just peel it out of cup. M&P can only accept 5-6% (fragrance, clays, ground oats etc) of additional additives before you compromise the quality of the soap. The moisture was due to too much fragrance in that small amount of soap. I started with m&p then went on to CP then HP. They each have different ways to work them to get optimal results, there is a learning curve for sure. 4-6 hours sounds right for a loaf of m&p but single cavity molds set up faster. Love the skulls btw, and your videos!
Yer killin' me in this video Jon! And that monkey!! 😂🤣 #dead
I've been making M&P for a long time and you most definitely can and should stir - esp when heating - so it doesn't burn or scald at the bottom (which microwaves are famous for). Just don't stir vigorously and you'll be fine. 30 sec bursts are correct and adding your colors and FO/EO's around 140* is ideal so you can pour around 130*. Mix well and pour right away. Also, if you are layering or adding more as you did here - always spray soap in the mold with alcohol first so the new soap pour adheres well to the soap already in the mold. Even with the learning curve these turned out great! ;)
I love the skulls!!!! I'm an HP and CP soap maker...I too get tired of doing the same thing all the time.i got too big for my britches and made clear M & P. It turned out okay but decided to buy it from the pro's out there. Thank you for sharing this video. Blessed Be!
Alcohol will cool it down. You want to pour it at around 125 to 130 degrees.
Also, if it doesn't turn out right, wait until it completely cools, take it out of the mold and melt it down again. If you are adding to the top, spray it with alcohol to make it adhere to the other soap
Those skulls turned out amazing! Thanks for the video.
Forgot to say that I’m very impatient also.I make cold process all the time and I keep unwrapping it and Peeking at it,I get so excited. I also tend to unmold them too soon at times so they’re kind of funny looking.
There is a place for M&P … and making specialty pieces like these skulls is definitely one of them. I think there are a ton of embeds that are best done with M&P as well. I love my CP and HP soap, but am certainly not a purist. I just haven’t had the opportunity to use it too much … but my business is less than a year old, so I’m sure I’ll get there lol … Great video Jon
When I first started soap making I was very dismissive of M&P, but its great for novelty soaps so... stupid me...
Thank you for breaking down some of the elitist/haters and it’s such a great way to jump in for skittish people.
No hago jabón pero me encanta verte 🌞🍻
M&P is real soap, it's just made by a different process...like HP, CP and CPOP. You can actually make your own M&P from scratch.
You want to start stirring your chunks after the first blast so the soap continues to met evenly, elsewise you will end up burning your soap. Do NOT heat it to bubbling...it's soap, NOT soup. And just like with CP or HP, you need to mix your scent in well or you end up with those oil spots you saw on the surface.
I haven't done a lot of M&P soap myself, but I made mistakes and learned from them.
Heh… “soap not soup” is gonna be my new catchphrase 😂
Nice
What does annoy me is when people put ingredients that are going to go rancid (like breast milk) in MP soap and pretend it will cure skin issues somehow and other often unsafe 5 Minute Crafts type projects being advised.
MP is great for intricate or fun designs and I don't believe syndet surfactants are somehow bad for skin either. It's just a shame how a lot of people spread misinformation about what soap can do in general and what you can put in already made MP soap (which aside from color and fragrance is very little).
Embeds with m&p are great. I'll still use m&p for little quick favors or rush orders for events when there's not enough time for cp.
I stir when it's melting. But I will leave out a bit to see how the heat is before sticking backing into the micro.
I did start with M&P before CP.
Love both but am tired of the lovely gatekeepers that look down their noses at m&p.
And yes, spray alcohol before and after pouring.
Dean Wilson and Koala Soaps have a lot of great m&p videos here on UA-cam 🥰🧼
M&P you can put water in the molds then pour it into the container to measure the amount that you will need. Yeah there are elitists among the soap types.. its crazy. I used to only like hot process soap lol.
neato, dude.
Make sure you use 99% alcohol or the higher water content in 70% will mark your soap
Nice!! How was the lather test?
It was nice! But nothing like my own soap🤣👍
According to a fairly big soaper I watch dont stir while heating. But I have I have never used it lol
You really do have to stir. Have been making M&P a long time and if ya don't stir it can burn or scald very easily so surprised a big soap maker would say that - not good advice. And you have to stir in FO's, EO's, etc... There is some who think stirring will release bubbles which will affect the lather but that is false as well - at least the difference is so small that I have never seen it. ;)
Hi, i am confused how to know the shelf life of soap after curing. I am unable to write expiry date on my batch.
I don't use expiration dates on mine. Soap lasts indefinitely. The only part that doesn't do well in the long term is scent strength.
Uncle John.. Lmao.. I COULDNT get trace in beginning.. Recently light bulb came on.. I was using potassium not sodium.. Sodium makes bars. Potassium is for liquid. Back then what did I do to succed. I watched you. You said something about salt.. So I added few grains. Boom hit trace immediately.. Lolol. I felt so stupid
You can also make bars with potassium. But it takes way longer to trace and usually requires external heat. And a long cure time.
First of all I NEVER use a microwave in my house I purchased a antique double boiler and it works the best I do this with my rebatch I make for curtain reasons
I make my own melt and pour not buy from others. Jon make your own
Idk how you'll get it out. Candles.. Yes
I have Buddha. No way ID try it
I’ve done all 3 and cold process is my favorite for it’s flexibility.
M&P just isn’t as satisfying for me… and I don’t like the part where I can’t fully control the ingredients in m&p.
I’m not going to disparage anyone who uses m&p, but for me, personally, I just prefer cold process the best.
If you had something to stir with that could be left in the cup in the microwave so it didn't cool off???
Maybe. I will say that I just learned that you want it to cool off when doing a swirl with this stuff. I'll let you know how it turns out..lol
I started out with m p switched to cp even made my own mp. But it is not the same as cp I find it doesn't last as long as CP bar does. If you selling MP it should be listed as MP not handmade unless you make your own MP base Those are my big stinks with it
I know melt and pour is real soap. I just wish more people that use it wouldn’t call it “making soap”. Because they aren’t making soap…it’s already made. All they are doing is scenting, coloring…decorating soap.
Soap working. Soaping. 🧼
16oz is one pound
Yep
Uncle Jon, it would also be better if you took temps.
Yeah.. I probably won't though..lol. I go more by feel.
@@unclejonssoap it's not important if your doing just one colour 👍 but multiple colours, taking temps saves your design from being screwed up... otherwise the colours morph together.
Gotcha! So... What's a good temp for just doing basic swirls with m&p?
@@unclejonssoap
The ideal pour temperature is 140°F. If you are doing a layered soap or embed soap, the ideal pour temperature is from 125°-130°F. Step 5: Spray with 99% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to pop any bubbles that have formed on the surface.
I always spray with the alcohol for sure. Just never tried different temps.
But the true craft of soap making starts starts with raw ingredients. Anyone can do "melt and pour". To each their own. In my opinion.
But not everyone can do some of the amazing designs I've seen. I think it's just as much an art. Just not starting from scratch.
@@unclejonssoap I just the natural soap you make. Less chemical
I agree with to each their own. You do you. THAT being said. We human people, pack animals and primitive brains and all created "language" as a better way to communicate. Just as paper money and coins are more convenient than having to trade items to get what you need or want. The human brain and also psychology understands what it knows, but if I hold up an item you don't know what it is and say a word you don't know, maybe in a foreign language, does that word mean the item ? - the color, shape, what it does? When words are used, the brain actually finds the related image, understanding happens, it's in micro-milliseconds, so you don't perceive it. But when someone else uses a word INCORRECT, confusion begins. This is the psychology of how arguments begin. To make something is understood as from scratch. A painting By an artist is an original, there's only one and it's price is based on it being rare. Reprints are Mass produced and cheaper because they are machine made and exactly the same. So by definition an organic artisanal Soap is made from scratch, using ingredients to create soap that even if they followed the exact same recipe and technique, EACH bar is going to be different, even in the same loaf batch. While Melt and Pour soap is a type of cleaner, depending on its components. So Let's Define cleaners. Originally we humans didn't use "sosp" we used Sand, Ash, and other abrasive stuff, there's what is believed how Soap was invented but this is not that debate. Making soap was done primarily to clean fabric and was too expensive for regular people because it was excessively taxed. Until it's usage and values were changed. There's that and the earlier settler's to the colonies that became the United States, figured out how to Mass make their own, it was inconsistent and not pleasant to use, and was all purpose used to bath with, clean dishes and laundry, But after machines and chemistry created the ability to replace costly ingredients the term or word SOAP stayed attached to things that are not true soap but detergent, what most non Soap making people buy to clean dishes, laundry, hands, body, hair and teeth, aren't soap but detergent. Hence the colloquial use of the word soap. This is also why there's an argument over terms applied for those who make or create some versions of cleaners. Organic Artisanal Soap is thought they make from scratch ingredients and molded however it's process is done. Melt and Pour might be soap but If it's your primary or only ingredient you didn't make it. To put it in understandable terms, a chef makes, prepared or cooked dinner. If you poured something out of a box you didn't make it, you reheated, rehydrated, or assembled dinner. Trust me. Ex husband asked for homemade mashed potatoes. I peeled, diced, sliced, and created the best mashed potatoes you ever had. His response, not like jis mother's. I called her. She used instant potatoes. IF you start out with ingredients careful prep, measure, and go through a process you made it. It's crafted. If you use Melt and Pour and you measure, put in scents, colors, and mold to create artistic designs that are more of a gift or display piece than is meant for everyday use, you get to claim artist status, because a painter or sculptor do not make the medium they created from. If you use a form of lye, that in measurements with a recipe for Oil or fat and Water and follow a process, you made soap. If you used a premade medium Such as Melt and Pour, you made Art. Maybe this will settle it. But just my thoughts and opinions.
Melt and Pour is real soap, you just didn't make it. Are you a soap maker if you microwave already made soap and pour it into a mold?
I would say soap artist maybe?
@@unclejonssoap That works! The detail in the end is really nice though, definitely has a place.