𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀 3/4" SharkBite Valve: geni.us/B9zRr Compression Ball Valve: geni.us/hYezHE Sweat Ball Valve: geni.us/tmrWAAG Deburring Tool: geni.us/xHbWY 3/4" Superior Tube Cutter: geni.us/T4Ib Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
I’m going to try this. Had a water disaster and my shut off didn’t work so I had to have the water company shut off my water for me. Wish me luck. You make it look so easy!
Agree, very straightforward. But additional narrative would be helpful. Like, instructions to hold the valve via a collar while tightening the compression collar; instructions to turn clockwise relative to the threads. Use or don’t use Teflon tape. The guy said don’t over tighten to not deform the ferrule, but how? By “feeling” resistance and then turn 1/4 to 1/2 turn. In real life, it may the first time a DIY installs a shutoff valve, so additional instructions would avoid racing to tighten in case if a compression spray leak if not tightened enough or a disastrous spray leak if ferrule is deformed. Finally, advise the DIY to buy a ball valve (not a gate valve) and most likely 3/4 inch, maybe with a bleeder. Make sure valve is lead free for potable water use.
I envy guys like you. Very simple to do but I know if I did it, something would go wrong. I have no confidence in me when it comes to stuff like this. Music...that's a different story. I have total confidence when I play. Great video and subscribed and rang the little bell too!
What I'm really curious about is whether the common practice is to install the handle (for when valve is open) to be pointing in the direction of the flow. The valve is bi-directional so the handle could point up or down in this video, but you pointed it up. I heard that's the common practice, but cannot find confirmation of this on UA-cam or Google.
I'm curious why more people don't use comprehension ball valves. Seems easier than soldering and probably more reliable than Sharkbite push ball valves.
Hi Snow G, That is an excellent question. A ball valve has no direction of flow and can be installed either way. It is common trade practice though to install a vertical and horizontal valve in the direction that the valve closes by turning the handle downwards. This would mean when the valve is in the open position, that the handle would be facing up on a vertically installed ball valve and to the right on a horizontally installed ball valve. One reason behind this is that in an emergency situation it is easier to pull a handle to close than to push. This is especially the case if the valve is above your head or anything over 1" in size. Thanks for the question! Take care!
To get the most accurate measurement you can insert a piece of copper into the valve, then mark the copper at the end of the valve(at the start of the threads). This will give you the length of copper that inserts into the valve. Do this for both sides of the valve. Then subtract these two measurements from the total length of the valve (thread to thread, not nut to nut). This will leave you with the amount of copper to cut out. Hope this helps. Cheers!
Personally...I always put just a dab of pipe dope on the threads...brass or pvc. It helps it tighten smoothly during...and after if you ever need to tighten it later.
Does this need to be a lead-free valve assembly since it is delivering potable water to all of the house? I've got an old 1960s gate valve that is slowly failing. Trying to find a lead-free ball valve assembly with male NPT ends on both sides.
No that is not recommended. The compression ring is designed to make direct contact with the copper. Teflon tape can cause an improper seal and a false sense of being tight. Thanks for the great question!
I am about to replace a ball valve but I can't remove the old nut because that old ring stuck inside. Can you make a video on how to replace a ball valve? Many thanks.
How did you know if this was copper or brass? I have a tube just like this and wanted to put in a main water shut off BUT I was told when measuring the size of the tube that the material matters when measuring is that true?
I’m install a tee valve for an icemaker but it has the same kind of compression fitting. How much of the original copper line do I remove to make room for the fitting. Appx 1” or is there a proper way to measure?
Different manufactures of valve will have a slightly different amounts to cut out. I usually just eyeball it lol. To get the most accurate measurement though you can insert a piece of copper into the tee, then mark the copper at the end of the tee(at the start of the threads). This will give you the length of copper that inserts into the valve. Do this for both sides of the tee. Then subtract these two measurements from the total length of the tee (thread to thread, not nut to nut). This will leave you with the amount of copper to cut out. Hope this helps. Cheers!
What brand is that ball valve and where do you buy that one you used in the video? It looks to be way higher quality than the Eastman ball valve that you provided in the Amazon link in the description.
They are made by M. A. Stewart & Sons Ltd. or MAS. I was unable to find an online distributor. They were purchased at a local plumbing distributor in Alberta, Canada. Here's their website: www.mastewart.com/product/b-5-c-mas/ Thanks for the question!
Great simple video. Thanks! I have a question. If I want to change out an old compression valve, I just have to unscrew the nuts, right? Meaning, there isn't a special tool to use because of the ferrule, is there? Thanks!
You might need a ferrule removal tool. Depending how old and how tight it was installed. If you don't have one you'll have too cut them out. Hope this helps.
Not necessarily the direction of water flow but if the water is on or off. Handle parallel to piping is on and perpendicular is off. It's an industry standard that allows someone to look at the valve and quickly determine if it's on or off.
Nope it doesn't matter. There are some hydronic heating plumbers that will install them in the direction of flow, this can help service techs quickly determine direction of flow (important when pumps/circulators are involved. This is far less important for residential plumbing though as direction of flow is rarely needed. I would install it in which ever way is more convenient and easiest to access/operate.
They are made by M. A. Stewart & Sons Ltd. or MAS. I was unable to find an online distributor. They were purchased at a local plumbing distributor in Alberta, Canada. Here's their website: www.mastewart.com/product/b-5-c-mas/ Thanks for the question!
A slip coupling may help out in your scenario. Slip couplings are designed for areas where you can't separate the piping far enough apart to install a valve or fitting. Sharkbite also makes a 1" slip valve. 1" Sharkbite slip ball valve: amzn.to/35p76ER 1" Sharkbite slip coupling: amzn.to/38Et2xG If soldering, slip couplings are available as well in copper. Hopefully these fittings can help you out. Good luck!
this is where a stop cock should be..... where you can see it and where you can get a spanner on it. In the UK they are usually absolutely knackered, growing, rotten, bricked into a wall, hidden, no one ever touches them or looks at them and every time you actually want to use it it is rock solid and breaks when you use it..... that's if you can find it. Usually kitchen fitters cover them up, sometimes drill a little hole with sharp edges you can just het your hand through. Houses and the construction workers are all a bodge up
Man nobody ever shows how to do this in a limited space.. I have to install a 1" valve where my old water main valve is fked. Its about 2ft deep by 2ft and my big box store doesnt have the slip type ball valve in 1" so I have a regular sharkbite and another sharkbite coupling but i cant move the pipes because of the limited space.
It's unfortunate that you have such limited space. I'm trying to picture the scenario that you're in. I'm wondering if you might have enough room for a slip coupling. Slip couplings are designed for areas where you can't separate the piping far enough apart to install a valve or fitting. Sharkbite also makes a 1" slip valve. 1" Sharkbite slip ball valve: amzn.to/35p76ER 1" Sharkbite slip coupling: amzn.to/38Et2xG Hopefully these fittings can help you out. Good luck! *What is a slip ball valve?* "Push-to-Connect Slip Ball Valve is an innovative valve that allows you to make a quick repair or add in ball valve to rigid Copper or CPVC Pipe. The slip ball valve allows up to 2 in. of pipe to be removed allowing for easy installation where rigid pipes do not allow movement."
Hi Kevin, Unfortunately this isn't a universal dimension. Each brand of ball valve will be slightly different. I use a B-5C ball valve in this video which has it's specs online: www.mastewart.com/pdf/MAS/Technical/B-5C-LF.pdf . You can stick a piece of copper in each side of the valve, mark the copper at the end of the threads on the valve, and take these 2 measurements and subtract them from the overall length of the valve (thread to thread of the valve, not nut to nut). This will give you the exact amount of copper to cut out. Good luck on your project and let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!
if you are replacing a old valve, would you need to add extra pipe after cutting it off? i think so if the pipe can't be pulled down right? how would you add extra piping, do you recommend doing it without soldering?
Clearly showed a DIY person how to do this. It's great that no sweating pipes are required.
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
3/4" SharkBite Valve: geni.us/B9zRr
Compression Ball Valve: geni.us/hYezHE
Sweat Ball Valve: geni.us/tmrWAAG
Deburring Tool: geni.us/xHbWY
3/4" Superior Tube Cutter: geni.us/T4Ib
Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
Not too much talk, right to the point
I love it 👍
Good Job...... u brought the procedure to a Sesame Street level.....bravo.....
I’m going to try this. Had a water disaster and my shut off didn’t work so I had to have the water company shut off my water for me. Wish me luck. You make it look so easy!
How did it go?
Wow, this was the most straightforward and entertaining video I've seen on the subject! Well done.
Thanks for the kind words! Take care.
Agree, very straightforward. But additional narrative would be helpful. Like, instructions to hold the valve via a collar while tightening the compression collar; instructions to turn clockwise relative to the threads. Use or don’t use Teflon tape. The guy said don’t over tighten to not deform the ferrule, but how? By “feeling” resistance and then turn 1/4 to 1/2 turn. In real life, it may the first time a DIY installs a shutoff valve, so additional instructions would avoid racing to tighten in case if a compression spray leak if not tightened enough or a disastrous spray leak if ferrule is deformed. Finally, advise the DIY to buy a ball valve (not a gate valve) and most likely 3/4 inch, maybe with a bleeder. Make sure valve is lead free for potable water use.
the dogs are the stars of the show !
Lol! I agree.
I recommend the compression over solder. Too much heat will damage the valve. At least it did for me. I only used propane too. I was surprised.
Great little video! Does the trick and the dogs are a pleasant distraction. Thanks!
I envy guys like you. Very simple to do but I know if I did it, something would go wrong. I have no confidence in me when it comes to stuff like this. Music...that's a different story. I have total confidence when I play. Great video and subscribed and rang the little bell too!
Could use a brace against the wall with clamp to make pulling on the handle a little more secure.
Your install was clear and concise not a wasted moment. Thanks.
Thanks Matt! Take care!
Great video, you deserve the American plumbers national Medal of Honor!
Even the Dog love the good job u did
Excellent video!!! Very succinct and thorough - Thank You! 🙂👍
What I'm really curious about is whether the common practice is to install the handle (for when valve is open) to be pointing in the direction of the flow. The valve is bi-directional so the handle could point up or down in this video, but you pointed it up. I heard that's the common practice, but cannot find confirmation of this on UA-cam or Google.
I like your straight install.Lot of pros add putty on olive part.It looks unnecessary.
Nice job on that. Thank you for making & posting this video.
I'm curious why more people don't use comprehension ball valves. Seems easier than soldering and probably more reliable than Sharkbite push ball valves.
Valves that understand. What a concept! 😊
Great job young man!!! More power to you!!!
Very helpful and direct. Thank you.
Awesome vid. The dogs are so cute!
Thanks for the video. One question, does ball valve have markings for inlet and outlet, or you can use either end as in or out?
Hi Snow G, That is an excellent question. A ball valve has no direction of flow and can be installed either way. It is common trade practice though to install a vertical and horizontal valve in the direction that the valve closes by turning the handle downwards. This would mean when the valve is in the open position, that the handle would be facing up on a vertically installed ball valve and to the right on a horizontally installed ball valve. One reason behind this is that in an emergency situation it is easier to pull a handle to close than to push. This is especially the case if the valve is above your head or anything over 1" in size. Thanks for the question! Take care!
Very good job. Keep helping others with your tutorial.
Thanks buddy!
Very informative tutorial indeed. Thank you. I am about to do the same thing but not sure how many inches of the pipe are to be cut off.
To get the most accurate measurement you can insert a piece of copper into the valve, then mark the copper at the end of the valve(at the start of the threads). This will give you the length of copper that inserts into the valve. Do this for both sides of the valve. Then subtract these two measurements from the total length of the valve (thread to thread, not nut to nut). This will leave you with the amount of copper to cut out. Hope this helps. Cheers!
@@PROSDIY appreciated. Thanks
You didn't use any pipe dope? That whitish paste around the olive??
Thank you short and to the point
Personally...I always put just a dab of pipe dope on the threads...brass or pvc. It helps it tighten smoothly during...and after if you ever need to tighten it later.
watched vid for information, liked for doggo
Dude I loved this video, insanely helpful for the amatuer. Well detailed. MANY THANKS
Thanks Ken. Much appreciated! Cheers!
Very well done. Thanks dude.
can u install this on say a water line for a shower for the bathroom just in case of a leak in the bath tub.
Love your very helpful video. Thank you very much
How do you know where to mark the pipe?
what you do if the pipe is is not moving after the cut
Quality video. Concise. Thank you!
Thanks Paul!
Does this need to be a lead-free valve assembly since it is delivering potable water to all of the house? I've got an old 1960s gate valve that is slowly failing. Trying to find a lead-free ball valve assembly with male NPT ends on both sides.
Ferule can be easily damaged? Isn’t that the purpose of the ferule?
compression is awsome
Can I get the main water shut off valve at home depot?I heard they don't have good quality parts
The dog made the video that much better lol
Hm, tightened less than half a turn; not sure if this is enough. I aim for a full turn. PTFE paste can make it easier.
Great video.
Very well explained, thank you for your vid.
Thanks for the information Boss..
excellent video. thank you.
Would you recommend putting some teflon tape around the compression ring?
No that is not recommended. The compression ring is designed to make direct contact with the copper. Teflon tape can cause an improper seal and a false sense of being tight. Thanks for the great question!
@@PROSDIY Thank you
I use pipe dope on the compression rings works well
I am about to replace a ball valve but I can't remove the old nut because that old ring stuck inside. Can you make a video on how to replace a ball valve? Many thanks.
How did you know if this was copper or brass? I have a tube just like this and wanted to put in a main water shut off BUT I was told when measuring the size of the tube that the material matters when measuring is that true?
I’m install a tee valve for an icemaker but it has the same kind of compression fitting. How much of the original copper line do I remove to make room for the fitting. Appx 1” or is there a proper way to measure?
Different manufactures of valve will have a slightly different amounts to cut out. I usually just eyeball it lol. To get the most accurate measurement though you can insert a piece of copper into the tee, then mark the copper at the end of the tee(at the start of the threads). This will give you the length of copper that inserts into the valve. Do this for both sides of the tee. Then subtract these two measurements from the total length of the tee (thread to thread, not nut to nut). This will leave you with the amount of copper to cut out. Hope this helps. Cheers!
Great, thank you!
What brand is that ball valve and where do you buy that one you used in the video? It looks to be way higher quality than the Eastman ball valve that you provided in the Amazon link in the description.
They are made by M. A. Stewart & Sons Ltd. or MAS. I was unable to find an online distributor. They were purchased at a local plumbing distributor in Alberta, Canada. Here's their website: www.mastewart.com/product/b-5-c-mas/
Thanks for the question!
Now the kids can mess with each others showers.
Great simple video. Thanks! I have a question. If I want to change out an old compression valve, I just have to unscrew the nuts, right? Meaning, there isn't a special tool to use because of the ferrule, is there? Thanks!
You might need a ferrule removal tool. Depending how old and how tight it was installed. If you don't have one you'll have too cut them out. Hope this helps.
@@f3arful Thanks!
The best of all plumbers
Good stuff!
Dog wants to get his valve knowledge on
Lol! I agree.
Great vid..thx!
So in the open position, the red handle always points in the direction of water flow? Is there a reason for that?
Not necessarily the direction of water flow but if the water is on or off. Handle parallel to piping is on and perpendicular is off. It's an industry standard that allows someone to look at the valve and quickly determine if it's on or off.
@@PROSDIY So it doesn't matter if it's pointing upstream or downstream?
Nope it doesn't matter. There are some hydronic heating plumbers that will install them in the direction of flow, this can help service techs quickly determine direction of flow (important when pumps/circulators are involved. This is far less important for residential plumbing though as direction of flow is rarely needed. I would install it in which ever way is more convenient and easiest to access/operate.
@@PROSDIY OK.
in my case I cannot move the pipe ends...hmmmm
What is the copper pipe size?
In this video it is 3/4"
Who makes that valve
They are made by M. A. Stewart & Sons Ltd. or MAS. I was unable to find an online distributor. They were purchased at a local plumbing distributor in Alberta, Canada. Here's their website: www.mastewart.com/product/b-5-c-mas/
Thanks for the question!
What if you have no movement with pipes?
A slip coupling may help out in your scenario. Slip couplings are designed for areas where you can't separate the piping far enough apart to install a valve or fitting. Sharkbite also makes a 1" slip valve.
1" Sharkbite slip ball valve: amzn.to/35p76ER
1" Sharkbite slip coupling: amzn.to/38Et2xG
If soldering, slip couplings are available as well in copper.
Hopefully these fittings can help you out. Good luck!
thx
Great Video my friend, one subscription done.
Thank you! Cheers!
this is where a stop cock should be..... where you can see it and where you can get a spanner on it. In the UK they are usually absolutely knackered, growing, rotten, bricked into a wall, hidden, no one ever touches them or looks at them and every time you actually want to use it it is rock solid and breaks when you use it..... that's if you can find it. Usually kitchen fitters cover them up, sometimes drill a little hole with sharp edges you can just het your hand through. Houses and the construction workers are all a bodge up
Why water not leaking ..?!!
Nice
Updoot for the snoot
Man nobody ever shows how to do this in a limited space.. I have to install a 1" valve where my old water main valve is fked. Its about 2ft deep by 2ft and my big box store doesnt have the slip type ball valve in 1" so I have a regular sharkbite and another sharkbite coupling but i cant move the pipes because of the limited space.
It's unfortunate that you have such limited space. I'm trying to picture the scenario that you're in. I'm wondering if you might have enough room for a slip coupling. Slip couplings are designed for areas where you can't separate the piping far enough apart to install a valve or fitting. Sharkbite also makes a 1" slip valve.
1" Sharkbite slip ball valve: amzn.to/35p76ER
1" Sharkbite slip coupling: amzn.to/38Et2xG
Hopefully these fittings can help you out. Good luck!
*What is a slip ball valve?*
"Push-to-Connect Slip Ball Valve is an innovative valve that allows you to make a quick repair or add in ball valve to rigid Copper or CPVC Pipe. The slip ball valve allows up to 2 in. of pipe to be removed allowing for easy installation where rigid pipes do not allow movement."
well,from an economic standpoint,it makes totally sense!!!
Dogs like to learn plumbing.
I wish you would have said how much pipe you cut. I'm a noob and don't want to cut too much. No one in these videos ever say much they cut.
Hi Kevin, Unfortunately this isn't a universal dimension. Each brand of ball valve will be slightly different. I use a B-5C ball valve in this video which has it's specs online: www.mastewart.com/pdf/MAS/Technical/B-5C-LF.pdf . You can stick a piece of copper in each side of the valve, mark the copper at the end of the threads on the valve, and take these 2 measurements and subtract them from the overall length of the valve (thread to thread of the valve, not nut to nut). This will give you the exact amount of copper to cut out. Good luck on your project and let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!
I can This work
Lol at 2:44
And no pipe dope !
Noice vid
Almost as easy as sharkbite ball valve shutoff. Almost....
USA needs more plumbers!
if you are replacing a old valve, would you need to add extra pipe after cutting it off? i think so if the pipe can't be pulled down right? how would you add extra piping, do you recommend doing it without soldering?