FYI suggesting to wear rubber gloves is terrible advise. I'm an electrical engineer and I can tell you that unless those rubber gloves are electrically rated you are asking for major issues. Something like latex gloves will MELT TO YOUR SKIN. Please, for the safety of others, change or remove your statement
Not true. Touch the tubes and save yourself wearing socks on your hands for no real reason other than old misinformation that continues to spread from old pre-internet days when it was hard to ask a real amp tech. Even in this video you see the man changing tubes without covering his hands.
This advice comes from the knowledge that oils on skin negatively affect car headlamp bulbs. Tubes are not subject to these issues since the glass surrounding the filament is thicker and also not made of the same type of glass. You’re safe to handle tubes without protection assuming they’re cold. When dicking around INSIDE a tube amp however, different story.
@@ATSaale To a certain extent, you're correct.......the Tubes, although not "IN THE AMP, " what you have to be aware of is the Heat from the Tubes, Oils from your skin can, although rarely, help to speed up the aging of your tubes and WILL DETERIORATE the Glass surrounding the Plates inside your aTubes then, MOST IMPORTANTLY, THE CAPS......OR CAPACITORS LOCATED INSIDE. These Capacitors, can and will hold an ELECTRICAL CHARGE powerful enough to knock you across the street, make your Hair as Curly and Frizzy as mine not to mention, if not given enough time to TOTALLY DISCHARGE, NOT ONLY AFTER YOU TURN THE AMP OFF BUT ALSO UNPLUG FROM THE WALL, there is a very good chance of this Organ/Muscle inside your Chest, called YOUR HEART, WILL ALLOW ENOUGH CURRENT, VOLTAGE OR A COMBINED AMÒUNT TO PASS THROUGH. Thuss making your Heart..........well, you can figure it out......if you live!! MOST Tube Amps are designed and built to not only operate here, in the USA off of 120 Volts, if you read your manual these Amps and their Components like the Power Transformer can withstand the 220 Volts required overseas!!! Thank you for taking the time to read this. It could save your life!!!!
My 2 cents when dealing with snap crackle pops noise etc. May seem like Duh but its common. Plug directly into the amp. Try 2-3 different cords. I don't care if they are brand new $60. Try 2 guitars. Plug amp directly into the wall with nothing else in the outlet. Try different outlets.Many warranties are generous so do not void it. Check first before replacing things.
Stop. "Wait 15 minutes to discharge your amplifier". That is a pretty good way to get zapped. Capacitors in amplifiers can store high voltage for weeks. You need to properly discharge all the capacitors before poking your bare fingers in the chassis. This is pretty basic protocol and if you question how or why it needs to be done, please take your amp to a professional. This video does not apply to all amplifiers. If you are using this to troubleshoot a vintage amp, the information in this video will more than likely result in you damaging your amp, yourself, or your wallet by paying way too much in new vacuum tubes. I have no idea why Sweetwater would put this out or why it has been up this long. It takes a lot of study and work to get to a point where you can safely repair an amplifier correctly. Not saying you might not luck out and fix it replacing a tube, but without proper diagnostics(that don't include repeatedly blowing fuses until you figure it out) you could make your problem a lot worse. What caused your tube to fail in the first place? Do you know what a bias setting actually is? Are you using a current limiting device? Are you using an isolation transformer? Curiosity is good, but it also killed the cat. This endeavor should be approached with a lot of caution that does not seem to be addressed in this content. Learn the basics before you attempt repairs on a device that can stop your heart.
In all my years of playing fulltime through tube amps, the only tubes that failed on me were preamp tubes. The other tubes were routinely checked during maintenance with no sudden surprises during a performance.
How long do tubes usually last on average? I have an EVH 50 watt and yesterday so all 3 channels were working and now today the first channel that has the green and blue channels combined isn't working but the red high gain channel is working. I think though when I was playing that the sound on the red channel was lowering.
Very informative and detail explanation, I have a Carvin power amp TS100, and the volume drops when playing, it's good then suddenly volume gets less, any idea you think is causing this, Thanks for your time and hope to hear from you!
So I've stopped playing for awhile and have a Peavy 6505 112 combo turned it on and it's just static, plug my guitar in and you have to turn post and pre up stupid high to actually get sound and when you do it's just the most dull strumming sound ever. Anyone have suggestions?
Great! Clear deductions where the problem area lies. But what if this is the scenario:my Blackstar HT-5 (only 1 preamp tube, and only 1 power amp tube) makes funny noises when playing over the clean channel. Additionally, the amp seems to have lost both some highs and some lows, some punch, too, particularly when playing through the clean channel. The volume of the noise increases when turning the volume pot up. When playing through the overdrive channel, there is less funny noise, and the amp seems to have some more "life" in it. What is most likely the problem? Best regards from The Netherlands.
No help. I have a Bugera 6262 Infinium 120 watt head. Suddenly lost all power while playing. Power switch and standby switch light up - no tubes do. It's only 1.5 years old. What a drag. It's in the shop (now for a week - they haven't even looked at it yet).
I have a vox vt30, but now there is a problem. if I play for 30 minutes, the sound suddenly decreases and hoarse. what's the problem?? Please help me. Thank you
Thank you! It was even more helpful for me, because I needed to diagnose Mesa Boogie Mark V head :D In my case, the problem were 2 capacitors that were bulked and had to be changed, but the video helped me realize that the tubes weren't causing the hiss (it kinda seems rare that problem was not tube-related, don't you think?). And if Mark V users have any electronics-related problems, I advise that you try to isolate the problem with Triode/Pentode switch, Hard Bypass switch, EQ, Reverb and FX Loop switches and check if the problem still occur after switching those parts of the circuit off.
Can somebody explain 3:30 to me? He says "and the signal will be weak," but if you plug into the FX return (straight into the power section), shouldn't the signal be really loud, since that's what the power amp's purpose is?
a power amp running a signal that doesn't have a pre amp will be very weak. there are 3 levels of electirc signal: Insturment level (weakest and what a guitar puts out), mic level (mid level and what mics put out), and line level (strongest and what cd players/keyboards/cell phones etc put out). power amps are built to work from a line level input only. if you send them an instrument level signal, they won't do much with it. plugging into the send bypasses the preamp, sending your instrument level signal directly to the power amp. hence weak.
I have one blown power tube mesa now down to 3 mesa tubes. Can I put 1 tung sol power tube in or I need to take another mesa power tube out and replace it with another tung sol.
so my amps light is on but none of my tubes are getting warm and i have absolutely no signal going to the speaker. Im certain my power outlet is fine, my guitar and cable are fine. Im at a loss.
I've been having a problem with my Dual Rectifier amp and I believe it's a tube issue but I'm not sure. When I turn on the clean channel I get breakup in the signal way too early. I've tried adjusting the gain and master volume settings as well as the EQ to try to get rid of it but it yields minimal results. A friend of mine suggested that perhaps it's the preamp tube rather than a damaged speaker as I previously thought. I was just curious if a bad preamp tube could cause early breakup in a signal. It's only noticeable in the clean channel but it could likely be happening in all the others as well, it's difficult to tell.
+Perry D I suspect you may have a bad tube or a bad tube connection, or even a bad switch. I suspect that the symptom is there only when you are in tube mode, and not solid-state mode. You might have a malfunctioning rectifier tube, or the tube sockets may need cleaning and/or retensioning, and may be causing a tube to not operate. This model of amp has been produced for twenty years, and it started as a rather less complex design, so I can't be sure which features yours has. But if you can switch power and are running at fifty watts and a rectifier tube isn't operating, you won't have as much headroom as when both rectifier tubes are functioning. Perhaps your amp automatically switches to a low-power mode when you switch it to the clean channel? I honestly know know, but for the purpose of this fix, it's largely irrelevant. You'd have less power & headroom in 100-watt mode as well, but you may not notice unless you're playing at a higher volume setting. Over time, tube socket contacts can develop both corrosion on their contact surfaces and looseness, "losing their grip" on the pins of the tubes and in some cases breaking the connection between the tube pins and the contacts altogether, mimicking a failed tube. Operate the amp in full-power mode using the tube rectifier and try to determine that you are, or are not, hearing the problem. Try it in 50-watt mode, if you have that feature. Give the amp about 15 minutes to warm up, and then try to see if both 5U4 tubes are hot and slightly glowing. There's a quick-and-dirty method that isn't thorough, but it may help. Here's what you can try if one of the tubes looks dead, or even if you suspect it is (you can do this with all the tubes, as a regular yearly or twice-yearly maintenance step): With the amp in tube recto mode, using a clean cloth for burn prevention, grasp the top of the tube and CAREFULLY rock it in a circle, but don't tilt the tube very much, so as to avoid bending (or breaking) a tube pin or a socket contact. You're trying to loosen up any corrosion and/or dirt between the tube pins and the socket contacts, and hopefully restore a secure metal-to-metal connection. You might hear some loud noises when you do this, especially if you indeed have a dirty socket. Try to see if you can hear any difference when you resume playing. If the symptom seems to have vanished, you just may have temporarily cured the problem. If not, go ahead and try a substitute 5U4 tube. If you have a spare pair, replace both tubes. If you only have one spare, try it in both positions and test it each time for the symptom. It's also possible that you do have a bad preamp tube, and you can substitute a new one (or a known good one) in each location, one at a time, and see if that resolves anything. A 12AX7 will work as a TEMPORARY substitute in about every preamp-tube location in the amp. So will a 12AT7, 12AY7, 7025, 5751, ECC81, ECC82, and ECC83. But if you find a bad preamp tube, you must then install the recommended tube for that socket for best performance. This is most critical for the first tube in the signal path, usually either a 7025, a 12AX7 that is suffixed with one or more letters (12AX7A, 12AX7WB, etc.), or an ECC83, followed by the preamp socket located closest to the 6L6 (or EL34) output tubes, which is actually the driver in the output section and is sometimes a 12AT7. You need a high-quality preamp tube in the first position for low noise and lack of microphonics. This is only one basic step in determining if there's a "mechanical" cause for the symptom you've described. If all the connections in the circuit are known to be clean & tight, they can be ruled out as causes. It does no good to replace good tubes with more good tubes, if a bad contact is the problem. If you want me to discuss additional options, please feel free to reply, or just reply to let me know if you already know this stuff, and I'm all washed up or something. Either way, I'll be notified in my email and can then respond. If you want, I can give more details on how a more complete tube socket servicing is done. Finally, for safety's sake, you must be aware that LETHAL VOLTAGES are present at certain places inside the amp, whether it is plugged in or not. Try to work with only one hand, and keep the other away from the amp, or any grounded surface. Stand on a thick rubber mat or rug, and don't wear any metal jewelry or anything that might snag or dangle on any part of the amp. And keep pets and children out of the room. I hope to hear from you.
So i laid down my blackstar HT 60 2x12 down gently on it's face to change out the speakers and when I put everything back together and turned it on it started humming which it never did before and now the clean channel's volume is low but the overdrive channels seem to have their same volume but it feeds back like crazy now. It only hums when I have my guitar plugged in , if the amp is just on with no guitar I can crank up each channel volume but there is no humming or sound only when guitar is plugged in .
He pointed at the tube pairs wrong. The pairs are the 2 outer tubes and the 2 inner tubes. Also, Mesa amps don't have a bias adjustment. They are fixed bias.
I've got a monoprice tube amp with 5 tubes. 2 large and 3 smaller. I play 1 to 3 hrs a day. I recently started using the effects loop and a couple days of playing I turned it on one day to zero volume. I can turn on my op amp pedal and crank the volume and you can barely hear the guitar. Anyone have any ideas? Should I just swap them all out and if so what tubes does anyone recommend? I play blues classic rock, get a little dirty Jimi in there as well. Thanks for any advice.
Did you get your amp repaired? I have a Monoprice tube amp as well and found this video looking for a way to diagnose my problem. I tried the effects loop for the first time last week. After about 15 minutes of playing, the main fuse blew. Now the fuse blows immediately every time the amp is turned on with no guitar or effects pedal connected to any input. It does the same with all tubes removed, so I don't think any of the tubes are the problem. I'm guessing I'll have to track down a local amp repair shop.
@@poit57 TN, I have always used solid state amps and this Mono was my first toe in the tube amp pool. I rarely used the effects loop on the SS so I wasn't sure about using it. I've read that the Mono is the same wiring as the Laney Cub. I upgraded the tubes and swapped them out with the old ones when they arrived. Have not had any problems since I put them in. I'm buying a Fender 68 custom twin in a couple months so I'm truly upgrading in the tube amps dept. Just bought a Peter Frampton LP copy so I'm using that through the Mono and it sounds great. Am also using the loop and have zero problems with the amp.
I have a tube amp that produces a raspy bass sound if I turn the bass control up. I'm using 6L6 tubes. Could it be because the screen grid and the center tap on the output Transformer primary are hooked up together? What if I hook the two screen grids together and then put an electrolytic capacitor between the screen grids and the ground, then between the screen grids and the power supply a 1500 Ohm resistor?
my dad's old Fender amp, its been working for many years and its been an long time since it's seen any repairs since he's owned it I'm the only one who's been using it since he's owned it I did carry it over to my house and it still worked after I'd brought it inside from the backseat of my truck I don't think it fell when It was into my truck I can' t figure out why help
Hello. Can anyone help me? My Tube Amp suddenly stopped amplifying my guitar. It can be turned on and makes some noise because of the tubes (so thats how I know nothing is wrong with the tubes) I never dropped it and always turned it on properly. It never caught dust, water, moist, extreme weather changes, etc. It just that it doesnt amplify my guitar... If anyone can help I would apreciate it
Should you turn the amp on again after it is unplugged, and wait for the power LED to fade out? That will discharge most of the capacitors, and prevent yourself from getting bit. Of course, they may not discharge all of them, but it would discharge most of them.
I have a small amp with just one tube for each section. I turned it on today then i plugged in a my effects chain and then the amp went out. Its a stage right 5w. My power tube looks fine but my light doesn't come on and seems dead. I guess ill order a new power tube since I have no light coming on
My amp is super dark unless the presence in cranked but you can still hear it unless i eq like - 8 db of 400hz and also boost the 1.6 and 3.2 also by like +8. I'm lost. Tried 100 different eqing options all moderate loudness
Hi, I have a 65 Princeton Reverb Amp which does not power up. the mains fuse is ok and the fuse at the back of the amp. can any help with this issue? Reeves
The valves don't light up in my amp (Hiwatt custom 100 dr103), I have changed the fuse that was blown, it turns on but the tubes don't warm up (light up). What could the problem be? should I send it to a professional to get it repaired? I got the amp from my dad and I know he's had problems with the amp before but no one really knew what the problem was and now it just "died"
I'm not much of an amp tech. but my trainer tube amp just stopped making any nose. but if i plug headphones into the headphone jack, I can hear it and control it fine. it was working great and just cut out.
Any amp heads have a suggestion? My amp turns on but the jewel light won't turn on so I have to check manually to see if its on. anybody know whats the cause? I bought this amp about a month ago.
im running through a marshall Ma50h, was playing and all of a sudden there was a pop and no more sound was coming out, all the lights are still coming on fine, i've changed the power tubes and still nothing, is this a fuse problem, or the pre amp tubes? any feedback is much appreciated!!!!!!!!
Turn the amp off before ...turn the amp off. Unplug it and let it think about what it has done for 12 minutes. Turn the amp off turn the amp off turn the amp off...with the power off...and I'm outta here. jeeeeez.
I have an Ampeg vl1002 50/100w head through a 1/12 Marshall speaker and there was a slight burning small and now the amp light comes on but no sound at all to the speaker and the name plate in the front doesn't light up either. Any ideas please? Thank you.
So I just got a tube amp. With the master volume on 8 I can barely hear my guitar. When i turn the amp off i can hear it really loud for a second then the amp is off. It does have a standby switch but it doesnt make any difference when I turn it off or on. It has two different channels and they dont change and light doesnt come on. It's a marshall and the cab I have is new and cords are new and guitar is good as well
i have a mesa boogie nomad 100...i get this crackling sound out of it after i warm tubes up...my tubes are new...its not my cords nor is it my effects...what is causing this?
I have an OR15 head that I haven't played in over a year. Last time I played it, it was doing fine, not really playing loud at all, but then it started to get quiet. Slowly it would get quiet, until there was no more sound coming from the amp. In both 7 and 15 watt mode it was doing the same thing, and nothing changed after turning it off and trying again later. I cannot remember if there is a hum now or not. The fuse is not blown. It powers up just fine, just no sound coming out. Does this mean my power tubes are bad?
I have a question! I have a marshall jvm210H and when I wait 15 minutes to active the standby it makes a lot of noise and louder but sometimes it is fine and works perfectly but most of the times I can't use it because of that, any idea what is the problem? And what is the of the valves? Blue with red and something like that?
I have a fender super 210 (red Knob )amp.was playing one day and it just went dead with no signs of anything wrong. replaced fuse and all tubes and still no power. any suggestions..please help
My HT fuse keeps blowing. I'm using a Marshall Bluesbreaker 2017 Reissue, volume on 7, with an attenuator on -16dB. Is this problem due to the attenuator? If I turn on the amp, while the settings are as described above, the HT fuse blows immediately. But when I turn on the amp when its volume is on 2, and the attenuator is on -4dB, it doesn't blow... When I keep turning the volume and attenuator up until it hits volume on 7 and attenuator on -16dB, I also doens't blow. But when I then put my amp in standby, I hear a crackling sound. When I then check my HT fuse, it's blown.
I have Orange Dual terror head, pracicaly new and I think the gain is weaker last days, I could be biased. Also I hear considerable hum when amp is on, on one channel louder than the other. And I think it's getting louder when I crank up the volume. I thought it was because guitar but seeing thi video makes me think of it as a malfunction right?
Hey. I own a 50 watt HIWATT custom signature series. After warming up my amp and switching on the amplifier, I heard a loud popping sound and one of my powertubes lit up. Since then I have had no sound coming from the amp. I worried that it might be a circuit board problem, but all of the valves still warm up and the power switch still lights up. Ive just noticed the Ht switch has also blown. Can you give me any advice on how to solve this problem.
indeed. good info, and not trying to be a "chop buster". however, there are certain kinds of "hum" and crackle caused specifically by capacitors. of course, replacing a cap can be dangerous, and the user may want to refer to a pro amp tech.
i have a question i hope you can help me with. i have a kustom hv65, its a great lil amp and i only paid 100 for it. problem is when i turn on power sometimes immediately turns on other times it can sit for up to 30 min before it pops and turns on. didnt do this before, any ideas what could be? im thinking power supply because once amp is on everything works great
Hello there, for whoever that can help me please, I have a Peavey JSX, recently i was playing my guitar at a moderate volume (not more than 2) and it was all fine but suddenly sound volume went to almost silent, i can still get sound but i have to crank it up and i get noise... is this pre-amp tube issue or power tube issue?
Leaving a comment in case someone answers, cuz I've got the same problem. The thing is if i crank up the gain, it sounds fine, i dont know what's wrong. Amp doesn't play clean anymore.
Found the solution: found a local amp tech, he said there was an issue with the carbon flim underneath the volume, reverb and gain knobs. He replaced those films. Amp sounds just as it did new. Didn't charge much. Great guy.
@@tusharkakshapati7610 I took mine to a tech yesterday, hope it will be something easy too, doesnt look like mine is having tour issue but we will see, enjoy your amp!!!
Hi, I have a fender super sonic 22 and it has a noise, it sounds like rain, it's not to loud, but I went to this studio record and when they set up all the mics the noise was just loud to record. Please tell me what can I do. By the way, it still make the noise with the reverb off.
Can I test my Peavey ValveKing tubes with this techinque: one at the time, or is there different kind of circuitry in ValveKing which would damage the amp if I try to narrow down the valve problem like this? Thanks!
This video is about tubes. Not all musicians are handy with a soldering iron. And then, there would need to be a discussion on how to ascertain the value of the capacitor. For most guitarists, that would be a long, long video. In which case, it would probably be better to just have a tech deal with it.
I was searching, Why is the clean channel so much louder than the lead channel on my tube amp? Best I got was this video. Any ideas how to adjust that? I was thinking of a lower gain preamp tube in V1 slot. Any tech-heads out there?
My amp doesn’t even power on how do I trouble shoot that? It’s not the outlet or the power chord. It powered off while playing it and I can’t get it to power back on. Help?
I have a question! I have a marshall jvm210H and when I wait 15 minutes to active the standby it makes a lot of noise and louder but sometimes it is fine and works perfectly but most of the times I can't use it because of that, any idea what is the problem? And what is the of the valves? Blue with red and something like that?
My tube amp is fine, but plugging the guitar into the send input on the back is the only way i can get sound out of it. the input on the front isn't working, but the input looks and feels fine when plugging in the chord. I'm not sure what's up with it. It's a really old marshal amp and the tube and fuse are both fine
I have an older Mesa 50/50 power amp and its been causing so much trouble. i know one sockets bad at least and have been running it on one channel only. now i cant get that one channel to work. i hate that ill have to send it in to a tech. poor person problems.
Any idea what it might mean if the STANDBY doesn't actually mute the sound? All the sudden today my STANDBY position isn't muting my sound. I have a Hughes & Kettner TubeMeister18 and the TSC LEDs on the back are normally on when in standby and turn off when switched to play but now when in standby the lights are now off and I can hear my guitar. Actually, TSC indicates a tube needs to be replaced because one LED is on so I'm figuring I just need to replace the tubes but with the standby not working, it makes me think something else is going on...
Hello, Norman! That doesn't sound normal at all! The Standby switch should mute the speaker level output of your amp (it may not mute other things like the silent recording output). The good news is, if you bought your TubeMeister from us here at Sweetwater, you're entitled to free Technical Support from our dedicated team of in-house technicians. Give me a call if you'd like as, I'd be happy to help any way I can. Thanks for the question! Brandt Miller, Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 1628, brandt_miller@sweetwater.com
Hi Sweetwater, I hope you can help me. I have a 71 Traynor YSR1, bought recently and gigged 2 or 3 times. Bought it from the original owner. After returning from a gig to the jamspace, it now only makes quiet electronic sounding fart noise, and has hardly any volume. Does this sound like a tube problem? Your help is greatly appreciated, thanks! JDD
+Jim Dan Dee Hope you've gotten it fixed by now. If not, try substituting tubes, one at a time, using a known good tube, and see if you find the cause. Or else, you may have a bad capacitor in the power supply section of the amp. Does the amp do it all the time, or does it just make the noise as you play it? You may try it your self or get a tech to do it, but you may need to look at almost every connection on the amp to see if you have a bad solder joint somewhere. Don't do it yourself if you don't feel safe, you can die from lethal voltages stored in amps, even if they've sat unplugged for long periods. They don't need to be powered up to kill you. You can try running it through an external speaker that's known to be good, to rule out a bad speaker. I'm clutching at straws now, since I can't hear the amp. Plug the guitar straight into the amp with a known good cord, too, and you can rule out anything in your effects arsenal as a possible cause if the problem persists. Check to see if the speaker leads are securely attached to the speaker.
crackling and popping is quite often loose tube sockets that need to be retensioned. and having to replace all your power tubes when only one of them is bad means that you have a poorly designed amplifier that doesn't allow you to adjust the bias of the power tubes individually.....indeed this kind of poor design is meant to sell more tubes, what a waste! there's really no need for "matched" tubes....anyway, power tubes wear out at different rates from each other. so even a matched pair (or quartet) is only matched when new and won't stay matched for long.
FYI suggesting to wear rubber gloves is terrible advise. I'm an electrical engineer and I can tell you that unless those rubber gloves are electrically rated you are asking for major issues. Something like latex gloves will MELT TO YOUR SKIN. Please, for the safety of others, change or remove your statement
put socks on your hands to replace tubes or wear cotton gloves. they're not meant to be touched by skin because of the fat fingerprints you'll leave.
Not true. Touch the tubes and save yourself wearing socks on your hands for no real reason other than old misinformation that continues to spread from old pre-internet days when it was hard to ask a real amp tech.
Even in this video you see the man changing tubes without covering his hands.
You a Gaylord you think you know I e but you pretend
Shut up I’m smarter than you lmao
This advice comes from the knowledge that oils on skin negatively affect car headlamp bulbs. Tubes are not subject to these issues since the glass surrounding the filament is thicker and also not made of the same type of glass. You’re safe to handle tubes without protection assuming they’re cold. When dicking around INSIDE a tube amp however, different story.
"keep amplifier turned off and unplugged when touching anything inside the amp"
First instruction: tap on the inside of the amp with the amp on.
inside is the key word, the tubes aren't really 'inside' the amp
@@ATSaale
To a certain extent, you're correct.......the Tubes, although not "IN THE AMP, " what you have to be aware of is the Heat from the Tubes, Oils from your skin can, although rarely, help to speed up the aging of your tubes and WILL DETERIORATE the Glass surrounding the Plates inside your aTubes then, MOST IMPORTANTLY, THE CAPS......OR CAPACITORS LOCATED INSIDE.
These Capacitors, can and will hold an ELECTRICAL CHARGE powerful enough to knock you across the street, make your Hair as Curly and Frizzy as mine not to mention, if not given enough time to TOTALLY DISCHARGE, NOT ONLY AFTER YOU TURN THE AMP OFF BUT ALSO UNPLUG FROM THE WALL, there is a very good chance of this Organ/Muscle inside your Chest, called YOUR HEART, WILL ALLOW ENOUGH CURRENT, VOLTAGE OR A COMBINED AMÒUNT TO PASS THROUGH. Thuss making your Heart..........well, you can figure it out......if you live!!
MOST Tube Amps are designed and built to not only operate here, in the USA off of 120 Volts, if you read your manual these Amps and their Components like the Power Transformer can withstand the 220 Volts required overseas!!!
Thank you for taking the time to read this.
It could save your life!!!!
Also: "Wear rubber gloves for extra protection" - continues to not wear rubber gloves
Pat Wilson that had me scratching my head swell
Just enjoy the free tutorial, ingrate.
I like how this feels like a very dry video you watch in school. It's comforting to me.
or like a new work orientation video. I immediately get tired.
Educational though
Im back watching this video once again... 🤦🏼♂️
Lol
My 2 cents when dealing with snap crackle pops noise etc. May seem like Duh but its common. Plug directly into the amp. Try 2-3 different cords. I don't care if they are brand new $60. Try 2 guitars. Plug amp directly into the wall with nothing else in the outlet. Try different outlets.Many warranties are generous so do not void it. Check first before replacing things.
Stop. "Wait 15 minutes to discharge your amplifier". That is a pretty good way to get zapped. Capacitors in amplifiers can store high voltage for weeks. You need to properly discharge all the capacitors before poking your bare fingers in the chassis. This is pretty basic protocol and if you question how or why it needs to be done, please take your amp to a professional. This video does not apply to all amplifiers. If you are using this to troubleshoot a vintage amp, the information in this video will more than likely result in you damaging your amp, yourself, or your wallet by paying way too much in new vacuum tubes. I have no idea why Sweetwater would put this out or why it has been up this long. It takes a lot of study and work to get to a point where you can safely repair an amplifier correctly. Not saying you might not luck out and fix it replacing a tube, but without proper diagnostics(that don't include repeatedly blowing fuses until you figure it out) you could make your problem a lot worse. What caused your tube to fail in the first place? Do you know what a bias setting actually is? Are you using a current limiting device? Are you using an isolation transformer? Curiosity is good, but it also killed the cat. This endeavor should be approached with a lot of caution that does not seem to be addressed in this content. Learn the basics before you attempt repairs on a device that can stop your heart.
Okay boomer
All this talk about getting your amp biased as he works on a mesa, ironic.
In all my years of playing fulltime through tube amps, the only tubes that failed on me were preamp tubes. The other tubes were routinely checked during maintenance with no sudden surprises during a performance.
Look at your fuse.....you'll see if it's blown
1:24 dude... you might want to turn the amplifier on before running the volume control up or down listening for noise. Just a thought.
I'm an absolute beginner in this area. The video was very informative. But, I will leave this type of work to the pros.
After watching your video I now know I have a blown preamp tube. Thank you!
sound gets down and up?
Really cool that Mike Pence knows so much about guitar amps.
How long do tubes usually last on average? I have an EVH 50 watt and yesterday so all 3 channels were working and now today the first channel that has the green and blue channels combined isn't working but the red high gain channel is working. I think though when I was playing that the sound on the red channel was lowering.
Very informative and detail explanation, I have a Carvin power amp TS100, and the volume drops when playing, it's good then suddenly volume gets less, any idea you think is causing this, Thanks for your time and hope to hear from you!
What does it mean when there is a hissing/crackling sound when the amp is on standby but it goes away when you start playing?
So I've stopped playing for awhile and have a Peavy 6505 112 combo turned it on and it's just static, plug my guitar in and you have to turn post and pre up stupid high to actually get sound and when you do it's just the most dull strumming sound ever. Anyone have suggestions?
Helpful but it would have been nice to be able to actually hear the things that you are talking about.
Get you a good solid state or mosfett amp.... avoid All This.....Use a tube simulator... AIN'T IT JUST AIN'T IT 😜 lols
Great! Clear deductions where the problem area lies. But what if this is the scenario:my Blackstar HT-5 (only 1 preamp tube, and only 1 power amp tube) makes funny noises when playing over the clean channel. Additionally, the amp seems to have lost both some highs and some lows, some punch, too, particularly when playing through the clean channel. The volume of the noise increases when turning the volume pot up. When playing through the overdrive channel, there is less funny noise, and the amp seems to have some more "life" in it. What is most likely the problem? Best regards from The Netherlands.
Amazing, there are 49 switches, jacks, knobs on the front and 28 in back, that's 77 total. And I'm getting by with 13 on my Princeton Reverb.
No help. I have a Bugera 6262 Infinium 120 watt head. Suddenly lost all power while playing. Power switch and standby switch light up - no tubes do. It's only 1.5 years old. What a drag. It's in the shop (now for a week - they haven't even looked at it yet).
I have a vox vt30, but now there is a problem. if I play for 30 minutes, the sound suddenly decreases and hoarse. what's the problem?? Please help me. Thank you
Thank you! It was even more helpful for me, because I needed to diagnose Mesa Boogie Mark V head :D
In my case, the problem were 2 capacitors that were bulked and had to be changed, but the video helped me realize that the tubes weren't causing the hiss (it kinda seems rare that problem was not tube-related, don't you think?).
And if Mark V users have any electronics-related problems, I advise that you try to isolate the problem with Triode/Pentode switch, Hard Bypass switch, EQ, Reverb and FX Loop switches and check if the problem still occur after switching those parts of the circuit off.
Hi, my DCM 40 transistor amp makes a pop noise when i push the power button on or off, any ideas? Thanks!!! Great Videos.
but you didn't talk about discharging an electrolytic....15 minutes unplugged isn't gonna do it
Please check my vid of my new Marshall DSL 40 for some reason it keeps hissing suddenly! Plz help
Excellent demo. It is really useful!!!!
Can somebody explain 3:30 to me? He says "and the signal will be weak," but if you plug into the FX return (straight into the power section), shouldn't the signal be really loud, since that's what the power amp's purpose is?
a power amp running a signal that doesn't have a pre amp will be very weak. there are 3 levels of electirc signal: Insturment level (weakest and what a guitar puts out), mic level (mid level and what mics put out), and line level (strongest and what cd players/keyboards/cell phones etc put out). power amps are built to work from a line level input only. if you send them an instrument level signal, they won't do much with it. plugging into the send bypasses the preamp, sending your instrument level signal directly to the power amp. hence weak.
according to this video: If your amp fails, go for professiional asistance hahhaha, for not to damage the amp neather you
I have one blown power tube mesa now down to 3 mesa tubes. Can I put 1 tung sol power tube in or I need to take another mesa power tube out and replace it with another tung sol.
so my amps light is on but none of my tubes are getting warm and i have absolutely no signal going to the speaker. Im certain my power outlet is fine, my guitar and cable are fine. Im at a loss.
It's beautiful to see the amp on and powertubes 3 mm out of the socket
Tube amps suck. My Mesa has basically never worked for me because it blows tubes and fuses all the time.
I've been having a problem with my Dual Rectifier amp and I believe it's a tube issue but I'm not sure. When I turn on the clean channel I get breakup in the signal way too early. I've tried adjusting the gain and master volume settings as well as the EQ to try to get rid of it but it yields minimal results. A friend of mine suggested that perhaps it's the preamp tube rather than a damaged speaker as I previously thought. I was just curious if a bad preamp tube could cause early breakup in a signal. It's only noticeable in the clean channel but it could likely be happening in all the others as well, it's difficult to tell.
+Perry D I suspect you may have a bad tube or a bad tube connection, or even a bad switch. I suspect that the symptom is there only when you are in tube mode, and not solid-state mode. You might have a malfunctioning rectifier tube, or the tube sockets may need cleaning and/or retensioning, and may be causing a tube to not operate. This model of amp has been produced for twenty years, and it started as a rather less complex design, so I can't be sure which features yours has. But if you can switch power and are running at fifty watts and a rectifier tube isn't operating, you won't have as much headroom as when both rectifier tubes are functioning. Perhaps your amp automatically switches to a low-power mode when you switch it to the clean channel? I honestly know know, but for the purpose of this fix, it's largely irrelevant. You'd have less power & headroom in 100-watt mode as well, but you may not notice unless you're playing at a higher volume setting.
Over time, tube socket contacts can develop both corrosion on their contact surfaces and looseness, "losing their grip" on the pins of the tubes and in some cases breaking the connection between the tube pins and the contacts altogether, mimicking a failed tube. Operate the amp in full-power mode using the tube rectifier and try to determine that you are, or are not, hearing the problem. Try it in 50-watt mode, if you have that feature. Give the amp about 15 minutes to warm up, and then try to see if both 5U4 tubes are hot and slightly glowing.
There's a quick-and-dirty method that isn't thorough, but it may help. Here's what you can try if one of the tubes looks dead, or even if you suspect it is (you can do this with all the tubes, as a regular yearly or twice-yearly maintenance step): With the amp in tube recto mode, using a clean cloth for burn prevention, grasp the top of the tube and CAREFULLY rock it in a circle, but don't tilt the tube very much, so as to avoid bending (or breaking) a tube pin or a socket contact. You're trying to loosen up any corrosion and/or dirt between the tube pins and the socket contacts, and hopefully restore a secure metal-to-metal connection.
You might hear some loud noises when you do this, especially if you indeed have a dirty socket. Try to see if you can hear any difference when you resume playing. If the symptom seems to have vanished, you just may have temporarily cured the problem. If not, go ahead and try a substitute 5U4 tube. If you have a spare pair, replace both tubes. If you only have one spare, try it in both positions and test it each time for the symptom. It's also possible that you do have a bad preamp tube, and you can substitute a new one (or a known good one) in each location, one at a time, and see if that resolves anything.
A 12AX7 will work as a TEMPORARY substitute in about every preamp-tube location in the amp. So will a 12AT7, 12AY7, 7025, 5751, ECC81, ECC82, and ECC83. But if you find a bad preamp tube, you must then install the recommended tube for that socket for best performance. This is most critical for the first tube in the signal path, usually either a 7025, a 12AX7 that is suffixed with one or more letters (12AX7A, 12AX7WB, etc.), or an ECC83, followed by the preamp socket located closest to the 6L6 (or EL34) output tubes, which is actually the driver in the output section and is sometimes a 12AT7. You need a high-quality preamp tube in the first position for low noise and lack of microphonics.
This is only one basic step in determining if there's a "mechanical" cause for the symptom you've described. If all the connections in the circuit are known to be clean & tight, they can be ruled out as causes. It does no good to replace good tubes with more good tubes, if a bad contact is the problem. If you want me to discuss additional options, please feel free to reply, or just reply to let me know if you already know this stuff, and I'm all washed up or something. Either way, I'll be notified in my email and can then respond. If you want, I can give more details on how a more complete tube socket servicing is done.
Finally, for safety's sake, you must be aware that LETHAL VOLTAGES are present at certain places inside the amp, whether it is plugged in or not. Try to work with only one hand, and keep the other away from the amp, or any grounded surface. Stand on a thick rubber mat or rug, and don't wear any metal jewelry or anything that might snag or dangle on any part of the amp. And keep pets and children out of the room. I hope to hear from you.
Perry D, problem is, you need to upgrade to a Triple Rectifier.
Thanks guys.
So i laid down my blackstar HT 60 2x12 down gently on it's face to change out the speakers and when I put everything back together and turned it on it started humming which it never did before and now the clean channel's volume is low but the overdrive channels seem to have their same volume but it feeds back like crazy now. It only hums when I have my guitar plugged in , if the amp is just on with no guitar I can crank up each channel volume but there is no humming or sound only when guitar is plugged in .
You said turn it off and unplug .Then when you tap the tube of course no ping sound. Ha ha ha
I lost gain in my Mark IV. I thought it was the battery in my guitar but it’s not.
He pointed at the tube pairs wrong. The pairs are the 2 outer tubes and the 2 inner tubes.
Also, Mesa amps don't have a bias adjustment. They are fixed bias.
yup. weird.
Ah I see your problem, it’s a Mesa.
I've got a monoprice tube amp with 5 tubes. 2 large and 3 smaller. I play 1 to 3 hrs a day. I recently started using the effects loop and a couple days of playing I turned it on one day to zero volume. I can turn on my op amp pedal and crank the volume and you can barely hear the guitar. Anyone have any ideas? Should I just swap them all out and if so what tubes does anyone recommend? I play blues classic rock, get a little dirty Jimi in there as well. Thanks for any advice.
Did you get your amp repaired? I have a Monoprice tube amp as well and found this video looking for a way to diagnose my problem. I tried the effects loop for the first time last week. After about 15 minutes of playing, the main fuse blew. Now the fuse blows immediately every time the amp is turned on with no guitar or effects pedal connected to any input.
It does the same with all tubes removed, so I don't think any of the tubes are the problem. I'm guessing I'll have to track down a local amp repair shop.
@@poit57 TN, I have always used solid state amps and this Mono was my first toe in the tube amp pool. I rarely used the effects loop on the SS so I wasn't sure about using it. I've read that the Mono is the same wiring as the Laney Cub. I upgraded the tubes and swapped them out with the old ones when they arrived. Have not had any problems since I put them in. I'm buying a Fender 68 custom twin in a couple months so I'm truly upgrading in the tube amps dept. Just bought a Peter Frampton LP copy so I'm using that through the Mono and it sounds great. Am also using the loop and have zero problems with the amp.
This helped me diagnose and fix my Randall RD45H. Luckily, it came with a spare power fuse . Cheers!
I have a tube amp that produces a raspy bass sound if I turn the bass control up. I'm using 6L6 tubes. Could it be because the screen grid and the center tap on the output Transformer primary are hooked up together? What if I hook the two screen grids together and then put an electrolytic capacitor between the screen grids and the ground, then between the screen grids and the power supply a 1500 Ohm resistor?
Hey just take it to technician
my dad's old Fender amp, its been working for many years and its been an long time since it's seen any repairs since he's owned it I'm the only one who's been using it since he's owned it I did carry it over to my house and it still worked after I'd brought it inside from the backseat of my truck I don't think it fell when It was into my truck I can' t figure out why help
Hello.
Can anyone help me?
My Tube Amp suddenly stopped amplifying my guitar. It can be turned on and makes some noise because of the tubes (so thats how I know nothing is wrong with the tubes)
I never dropped it and always turned it on properly. It never caught dust, water, moist, extreme weather changes, etc. It just that it doesnt amplify my guitar...
If anyone can help I would apreciate it
Should you turn the amp on again after it is unplugged, and wait for the power LED to fade out? That will discharge most of the capacitors, and prevent yourself from getting bit. Of course, they may not discharge all of them, but it would discharge most of them.
All these shiney tubes. I'm kind of used to tubes with blackened glass, barely readable lettering and a thick layer of dust stuck to them.
🤣🤣🤣
I have a small amp with just one tube for each section. I turned it on today then i plugged in a my effects chain and then the amp went out. Its a stage right 5w. My power tube looks fine but my light doesn't come on and seems dead. I guess ill order a new power tube since I have no light coming on
It was a blown capacitor. I ordered new ones and soldered them in along with a new slow burn fuse. Works like new.
My amp is super dark unless the presence in cranked but you can still hear it unless i eq like - 8 db of 400hz and also boost the 1.6 and 3.2 also by like +8. I'm lost. Tried 100 different eqing options all moderate loudness
Hi, I have a 65 Princeton Reverb Amp which does not power up. the mains fuse is ok and the fuse at the back of the amp. can any help with this issue? Reeves
The valves don't light up in my amp (Hiwatt custom 100 dr103), I have changed the fuse that was blown, it turns on but the tubes don't warm up (light up). What could the problem be? should I send it to a professional to get it repaired? I got the amp from my dad and I know he's had problems with the amp before but no one really knew what the problem was and now it just "died"
I'm not much of an amp tech. but my trainer tube amp just stopped making any nose. but if i plug headphones into the headphone jack, I can hear it and control it fine. it was working great and just cut out.
Any amp heads have a suggestion? My amp turns on but the jewel light won't turn on so I have to check manually to see if its on. anybody know whats the cause? I bought this amp about a month ago.
im running through a marshall Ma50h, was playing and all of a sudden there was a pop and no more sound was coming out, all the lights are still coming on fine, i've changed the power tubes and still nothing, is this a fuse problem, or the pre amp tubes? any feedback is much appreciated!!!!!!!!
Turn the amp off before ...turn the amp off. Unplug it and let it think about what it has done for 12 minutes. Turn the amp off turn the amp off turn the amp off...with the power off...and I'm outta here. jeeeeez.
my overdrive channel is really quite...but my clean channel is fine. what do you think the problem is?
Hope you've fixed this by now but I would say a preamp tube is worn or gone
Quite what?
I have an Ampeg vl1002 50/100w head through a 1/12 Marshall speaker and there was a slight burning small and now the amp light comes on but no sound at all to the speaker and the name plate in the front doesn't light up either. Any ideas please? Thank you.
My Marshall amp makes a rapid ticking noise and when turned halfway open gives looooots of feedback, please help!
So I just got a tube amp. With the master volume on 8 I can barely hear my guitar. When i turn the amp off i can hear it really loud for a second then the amp is off. It does have a standby switch but it doesnt make any difference when I turn it off or on. It has two different channels and they dont change and light doesnt come on. It's a marshall and the cab I have is new and cords are new and guitar is good as well
i have a mesa boogie nomad 100...i get this crackling sound out of it after i warm tubes up...my tubes are new...its not my cords nor is it my effects...what is causing this?
I have an OR15 head that I haven't played in over a year. Last time I played it, it was doing fine, not really playing loud at all, but then it started to get quiet. Slowly it would get quiet, until there was no more sound coming from the amp. In both 7 and 15 watt mode it was doing the same thing, and nothing changed after turning it off and trying again later. I cannot remember if there is a hum now or not. The fuse is not blown. It powers up just fine, just no sound coming out. Does this mean my power tubes are bad?
I have a question!
I have a marshall jvm210H and when I wait 15 minutes to active the standby it makes a lot of noise and louder but sometimes it is fine and works perfectly but most of the times I can't use it because of that, any idea what is the problem? And what is the of the valves? Blue with red and something like that?
I have a fender super 210 (red Knob )amp.was playing one day and it just went dead with no signs of anything wrong. replaced fuse and all tubes and still no power. any suggestions..please help
My HT fuse keeps blowing. I'm using a Marshall Bluesbreaker 2017 Reissue, volume on 7, with an attenuator on -16dB. Is this problem due to the attenuator?
If I turn on the amp, while the settings are as described above, the HT fuse blows immediately. But when I turn on the amp when its volume is on 2, and the attenuator is on -4dB, it doesn't blow... When I keep turning the volume and attenuator up until it hits volume on 7 and attenuator on -16dB, I also doens't blow. But when I then put my amp in standby, I hear a crackling sound. When I then check my HT fuse, it's blown.
I have Orange Dual terror head, pracicaly new and I think the gain is weaker last days, I could be biased. Also I hear considerable hum when amp is on, on one channel louder than the other. And I think it's getting louder when I crank up the volume. I thought it was because guitar but seeing thi video makes me think of it as a malfunction right?
Running a Carvin X-100B through a Crate half stack. Noticed the two right speakers are out. Any solutions...where do I start looking?
Hey. I own a 50 watt HIWATT custom signature series. After warming up my amp and switching on the amplifier, I heard a loud popping sound and one of my powertubes lit up. Since then I have had no sound coming from the amp. I worried that it might be a circuit board problem, but all of the valves still warm up and the power switch still lights up. Ive just noticed the Ht switch has also blown. Can you give me any advice on how to solve this problem.
my clean volume works but my master volume channel does not and my standby switch is not working
indeed. good info, and not trying to be a "chop buster". however, there are certain kinds of "hum" and crackle caused specifically by capacitors. of course, replacing a cap can be dangerous, and the user may want to refer to a pro amp tech.
My amp plays, but at a point it just goes silent. And after a while the sound comes back. Please help.
Best 6:20 minutes I've spent recently. Thanks for the crash curse!
Follow the advice in this video and you'll crash for certain.
i have a question i hope you can help me with. i have a kustom hv65, its a great lil amp and i only paid 100 for it. problem is when i turn on power sometimes immediately turns on other times it can sit for up to 30 min before it pops and turns on. didnt do this before, any ideas what could be? im thinking power supply because once amp is on everything works great
Hello there, for whoever that can help me please, I have a Peavey JSX, recently i was playing my guitar at a moderate volume (not more than 2) and it was all fine but suddenly sound volume went to almost silent, i can still get sound but i have to crank it up and i get noise... is this pre-amp tube issue or power tube issue?
Leaving a comment in case someone answers, cuz I've got the same problem. The thing is if i crank up the gain, it sounds fine, i dont know what's wrong. Amp doesn't play clean anymore.
Found the solution: found a local amp tech, he said there was an issue with the carbon flim underneath the volume, reverb and gain knobs. He replaced those films. Amp sounds just as it did new. Didn't charge much. Great guy.
@@tusharkakshapati7610 I took mine to a tech yesterday, hope it will be something easy too, doesnt look like mine is having tour issue but we will see, enjoy your amp!!!
@@hatespirit good luck!
Hi, I have a fender super sonic 22 and it has a noise, it sounds like rain, it's not to loud, but I went to this studio record and when they set up all the mics the noise was just loud to record. Please tell me what can I do. By the way, it still make the noise with the reverb off.
Can I test my Peavey ValveKing tubes with this techinque: one at the time, or is there different kind of circuitry in ValveKing which would damage the amp if I try to narrow down the valve problem like this? Thanks!
This video is about tubes. Not all musicians are handy with a soldering iron. And then, there would need to be a discussion on how to ascertain the value of the capacitor. For most guitarists, that would be a long, long video. In which case, it would probably be better to just have a tech deal with it.
Clean your valves with a alcohol glasses wipe and a clean rag, to remove the oil off the valves from your fingers !. Cheers
Tried that once. Looked cool but took off all the lettering.
I was searching, Why is the clean channel so much louder than the lead channel on my tube amp? Best I got was this video. Any ideas how to adjust that? I was thinking of a lower gain preamp tube in V1 slot. Any tech-heads out there?
My amp doesn’t even power on how do I trouble shoot that? It’s not the outlet or the power chord. It powered off while playing it and I can’t get it to power back on. Help?
So I have crackling and the crackling gets louder when I turn it up. I replaced all of the preamp tubes and still have the same problem. Thoughts?
I have a question!
I have a marshall jvm210H and when I wait 15 minutes to active the standby it makes a lot of noise and louder but sometimes it is fine and works perfectly but most of the times I can't use it because of that, any idea what is the problem? And what is the of the valves? Blue with red and something like that?
No volume but I had power. Turns out I had a blown HT fuse, thanks for the help!
Thank you, very helpful,now i know it's my preamp ,two tubes not lighting up ,I've switched them out ,but still no go ?
My tube amp is fine, but plugging the guitar into the send input on the back is the only way i can get sound out of it. the input on the front isn't working, but the input looks and feels fine when plugging in the chord. I'm not sure what's up with it. It's a really old marshal amp and the tube and fuse are both fine
I have an older Mesa 50/50 power amp and its been causing so much trouble. i know one sockets bad at least and have been running it on one channel only. now i cant get that one channel to work. i hate that ill have to send it in to a tech. poor person problems.
You said “replace the fuses”. Which fuses are you referring to?
I have a Laney GC-30V. It is making a steady humming noise, and one of the tube heats up so all of the inside components are orange hot.
I've got a vox night train g2 15w works great but I can't get it to turn off lol any suggestions why this might be happening ?
Those tubes are usually inside and outside pairs?
Things that are weirdly ASMR
Any idea what it might mean if the STANDBY doesn't actually mute the sound? All the sudden today my STANDBY position isn't muting my sound. I have a Hughes & Kettner TubeMeister18 and the TSC LEDs on the back are normally on when in standby and turn off when switched to play but now when in standby the lights are now off and I can hear my guitar. Actually, TSC indicates a tube needs to be replaced because one LED is on so I'm figuring I just need to replace the tubes but with the standby not working, it makes me think something else is going on...
Hello, Norman! That doesn't sound normal at all! The Standby switch should mute the speaker level output of your amp (it may not mute other things like the silent recording output). The good news is, if you bought your TubeMeister from us here at Sweetwater, you're entitled to free Technical Support from our dedicated team of in-house technicians. Give me a call if you'd like as, I'd be happy to help any way I can. Thanks for the question!
Brandt Miller, Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 1628, brandt_miller@sweetwater.com
Can any one help with regards to my issue?
Very helpful information! Thanks @SweetwaterSound!
COOL
Hi Sweetwater, I hope you can help me. I have a 71 Traynor YSR1, bought recently and gigged 2 or 3 times. Bought it from the original owner. After returning from a gig to the jamspace, it now only makes quiet electronic sounding fart noise, and has hardly any volume.
Does this sound like a tube problem? Your help is greatly appreciated, thanks!
JDD
+Jim Dan Dee Hope you've gotten it fixed by now. If not, try substituting tubes, one at a time, using a known good tube, and see if you find the cause. Or else, you may have a bad capacitor in the power supply section of the amp. Does the amp do it all the time, or does it just make the noise as you play it? You may try it your self or get a tech to do it, but you may need to look at almost every connection on the amp to see if you have a bad solder joint somewhere. Don't do it yourself if you don't feel safe, you can die from lethal voltages stored in amps, even if they've sat unplugged for long periods. They don't need to be powered up to kill you. You can try running it through an external speaker that's known to be good, to rule out a bad speaker. I'm clutching at straws now, since I can't hear the amp. Plug the guitar straight into the amp with a known good cord, too, and you can rule out anything in your effects arsenal as a possible cause if the problem persists. Check to see if the speaker leads are securely attached to the speaker.
Where do I find the fuse of my amp if it is not on the back panel?
Problem is that I want a M/B amp even MORE, now! Is this tattered-and-torn, used, beat-up demo available?!?
crackling and popping is quite often loose tube sockets that need to be retensioned.
and having to replace all your power tubes when only one of them is bad means that you have a poorly designed amplifier that doesn't allow you to adjust the bias of the power tubes individually.....indeed this kind of poor design is meant to sell more tubes, what a waste!
there's really no need for "matched" tubes....anyway, power tubes wear out at different rates from each other. so even a matched pair (or quartet) is only matched when new and won't stay matched for long.