"Texas", your compassion for metal work really shows, your skills are catching up inclusive of your camera and editing / content...tanks for continuing sharing
this is the dream patina! I love this redish tones of oxidation. Mine has patina, but not like this. Iv sanded with 1200grit and did some clearcoat all over.. looks amazing
Thanks man! Yes, I'm trying to preserve as much as possible. It's not easy with all the metal work that needs to be done but I think we can save most of it.
I’ve spent countless hours, researching ways to remove the death foam from my 73 sports bug. I’ve been considering removing sections of sheet metal to make easier access; welding the sheet metal back in place after removing the death foam and thoroughly cleaning the cavity. My beetle is a family owned California survivor and it’s currently in dry storage, so I’m not too worried about severe rust, but I need to take measures to prevent it. My gratefulness to anyone willing to share their wisdom and knowledge with me, please! I’m a newbie with automotive restoration.
I'm planning on cutting access panels from the inside. I'll flange the edges and make covers plates from the same area of a parts car, then drill and dimple holes for countersunk screws. That way I can have access from behind for any bodywork and foam remediation and can paint, treat, even place some sort of non-absorbent substitute for the foam if desired, and nothing will get burned or melted from welding it back together in the end.
You got my attention! I've been watching your videos for a few days now. I have a 65 that I'm going to be redoing for my daughter. Your skills are mad! Keep it up. Oh I believe VW put that foam in the window corners to keep exhaust gasses from entering the interior spaces. I know it has its dark side, but they had a pretty good reason. I don't think you will have an issue with it as long as your exhaust is in good shape and most should vent out the louvers anyway.
Nice repair, that was tough with the vents! Like the others I just wanted to say I would of used the coat hanger technique, even though I have no flippin' idea wth that is 😆
Man CT! I gotta handed to you! That’s some impressive metal work there! Specially when dealing with metal trim around the window trim! 😮wow! Great job overall! Looking forward to seeing the next chapter!👌😎👍
Try practicing laying down a continuous bead instead of hundreds of tacks. I understand that you are trying to be careful, but a continuous need will not only look better, but it will be a stronger more reliable weld Also, tacking the part down is to keep the part from pulling away from the work as you weld from one end to the other. In this case tacking each end and also in the middle both inside as well as outside would be sufficient to stabalize the work so you could then lay down a nice continuous uniform bead. Once grinded you can't see the difference, but every time you stop and start the weldyou are causing a weak spot in your weld. Your weld if done properly should have the appearance of a leaned over roll of dimes. What you've got, (no offense) looks like goat pellets, and I'm not talking about what they eat. I applaud you for learning as you go, but take a moment to watch a skilled welder or two on UA-cam demonstrate a good bead and listen when he explains the purpose behind tacking the ends first. You shouldn't start from one end and tack every inch or two until you get to the other end. That defeats the purpose. By the time you get to the other end, the price gas heated, warped, and pulled away from where you had it positioned. Tacking each end first will stabalize the part to the work so that warping is minimized.
I am enjoying watching you and Jason learning metal working at the same time. You guys should get together and take some lessons from Larry and/or Mike F. Onward!
Thanks man! Yes, it's great to have guys that are willing to share their knowledge with others. Larry, Mike, Darrin and so many others putting it out there. It helps everyone grow! =)
Wow didn't know that windows were that bad 😳..you did a great job 👏 doesn't matter what the welds look like CT They grind down...just have to make sure no holes or warping 😢
For the wider gaps use a coat hanger to fill in the gap. Secondly I would have left more material at the top of the louvers. You created a very tough scenario by cutting so close to the louver itself
@@CTmoog If the louvers are even slightly distorted by heat, or get any weld splatter onto them it will be very hard to make them look right again. I would have left at least half an inch of metal above the tops and tried to cover the louvers to avoid splatter. Hope you get lucky. Otherwise really enjoyed seeing the results of your work.
CT, I have a Porsche 914 with its engine and trans that was good when it was parked. A young girl had the car and parked it in her father's barn when she got married. Years went by and the farm was sold. The new owners did not want the Porsche which was in pristine shape and pushed it out of the barn into the paddock. They moved it around a few times before I found out they had it. Somehow they dented every quarter panel. You know that they had no rust protection so the tin worm started its brutal business. When I found out about it (3 or 4 years later I believe) I made arrangements with the people to purchase it I have had it on my dad's trailer for the last three years as I have been recovering from getting hit on my 1957 Harley and nearly having my right leg taken off as well as learning how to walk again and fighting off the blood clots that went from my leg to my heart and lungs making me feel like I was drowning every time they closed off my ability to assimilate blood in my lungs. When I got the hospital the surgeons said I had less than six minutes if I did nt go right into surgery.I am doing much better and can walk without assistance. My dad wants his trailer back and I do not have a place for my beloved Porsche. I am coming back down to Florida in a few months to stay hopefully but I would like to find a good home for my beloved yellow 914.Do you think we might be able to work something out as either a collaborative venture or possibly you might want it. Your brother has that awesome place you do your builds in. I know that it really sucks to work on stuff alone and I would love to join forces and do some great things. message me and I will give you my number . I have a full mobile welding operation with an extra Miller Roughneck 2e that is an AC welder that I have DC conversion kit for. I have almost a full machine shop and will have a full machine shop soon We need to talk. Thanks-John P.S. I have a lot of glass for many years of bugs including wheel spacers and conversion 4 lug to five lug kits including an air-conditioning kit with a dashboard for a bug or a Kharmann Ghia.
VW was 1 of my Best cars, I restored a 65 Convertible back in 1980, It came out Beautiful, I payed 150 dollars, I was a body man for Mercedes Benz When I was done I drove the car, for 2 years and sold it for a 68 dodge charger rt 440 4 speed, The Man that Bought the car Took it to have it checked out by VW they Told him the Motor ran like Brand new ,I puy a complete new floor pan it Actually had working Heat, What a great car for snow, , If ct Stands for CT that's were I live, Danbury at the Time, Good luck with your Build, Hope it turns out to be everything you Hoped for GOD Bless
As always, doing an excellent job of welding, and I ask, why didn't you cut the entire back part where the grilles are and take advantage of it to clean the part that does not have easy access both for cleaning and painting, and likewise you would have cut the entire back of the donor car and thus remains in one piece since it looks like it is in good condition? Greetings from the Southeast of Mexico. Blessings.
Just two suggestions. First, I think that you would have saved yourself a lot of trouble if you repaired the replacement patch before welding it into the car. Second, I suggest that you make a template of the whole window aperture before cutting out the other corner: that will make it easier and more accurate to align the replacement corner after you cut it out. Thanks for the videos and best wishes.
Thanks for the tips! I like the idea of making a template before cutting. I wonder if I could make one out of tape on the good window and transfer the lines onto the rusted window... um....that might work.
I've made a plywood template for a flat window on a bus. It could either be screwed to the pinchweld or you can make a serious of holes with a hole saw to feed clamps through. When I added an extra Westfalia jalousie window to the right rear section of my '74 bus, I cut a donor section from a sliding door to change the asymmetrical rear side window to a rectangle. I trimmed away the curved rear section of the window, screwed the jalousie window to the pinchweld of what remained of the window opening, then screwed it to the donor section, using the actual window as the jig to tack it in place, a perk of a metal-framed window.
Talk about precise surgery! You cut it really close! That foam inside always rusts everything out in those more modern models. Somehow my impression was that bodies were the same from ‘58 to ‘64 and then ‘65 to ‘72. If the ‘73 is the same you got lucky. When you reinstall the glass make sure you use black butyl sealant inside the new rubber seal channels. That way you prevent that rust there in those window channels and especially that rear package tray. We’re getting there; like you say 😉👍
I was conserned with you welding that close to the vent holes but after you cleaned up the welds it does not look that bad. I bet with a little clean up with a round file you can get them to look factory.
The way you’re doing it now you’ve got to worry about all kinds of warpage and distortion onto mention affective penetration at every one of those vent louvers!!
Hi CT, good work on that side so far. Like you said as long as the window fits all the rest is how you get there. You need to try Mike overlap cut and weld the gap trick. Probably not on this but a larger area when you get to one. try it out on your parts bug for practice
Hey there, Mr. CT.. Tricky, ah? Hehe.. You cut soooo close to the louvers (grilles) it became difficult to weld.. One tip - when welding, try to cut on a good spot, which is accessible for later planishing work.. Avoid cutting next to corners or other difficult parts. Also I see rot damage to the border of the window, which you need to have smooth and precise as it's the thing on which the rubber seals. Well, if things go too south, then you have still the option of modifying the seat and use some polyurethane adhesive, but that's another story. Defective or plasticised rubbers are also mostly the cause of window channels rot, because those retain water in the channel. Other than that, I'm glad to see you making some serious metal work. Don't loose too much time in fiddling with the patches, just cut an approximate dimension a bit bigger than the hole, mark it on the car, dress the hole according to the marking, insert the patch and "glue" it. 😁It's easier. Cheers, keep on!
Not being as good at body work as you have become over the past few years, I would have removed the entire area around the window, which should have insured the glass would fit. That leaves you with some butt joints to weld. Since you already have a panel flanger/punch, it would be easier to make a lap joint, which is easier to finish. Yeah, I know that's the easy way out, but I'm an electrician not a metal worker! I used the flange method in replacing the entire roof line on a Gremlin. In that case, I joined it at the area aft of the B pillar. The original joint was welded and finished with solder. Mine looked OK, but wasn't really as pretty before filling and paint. You have learned some amazing skills, and are willing to attack projects which I wouldn't have done in the middle sixties.
Hey mate you're doing great. I was watching through my hands though, when you welded that corner in - you were so close to those vents!! Did you consider cutting out the whole rear window from the donor, say an inch or so around, then just cutting the 3 inches from its height? You could've fixed the whole thing in one go, and got rid of all that rusted metal on the lip. You could've even taken the vents - cut right down the the top of the engine lid and taken the vents from the donor as well. However the rust and patina on the '65s vents are lovely - maybe it was best to keep them.
Hey Ozzy, for this project I'm trying to retain as much of the original "rust" patina as possible. Also, there are a lot of welded sections that hold everything together. It would have opened a whole bunch of can of worms if you know what I mean.
I would cut your patch panel over cutting that close to the grilles.... less chance of disaster or some warping.... leave as much metal as you can away from something that detailed... alot less finish work later too and easier to sand/grind if you have your joint farther away.. and put those repair pieces ( small rust areas and gaps ) in before you weld this piece in...again it is easier to do when it is off vehicle and you can add the metal and trim it easier ...
I will spray everything inside once it's all welded up. There is plenty of access through the vents and inside the roof line. Makes a cleaner weld without all that stuff on it. Best to spray it after if you have access.
When cutting it to size, cut less off and trim it in bit by bit with a grinder otherwise you'll over cut and end up with huge gaps like you had at the top. Also would have primered inside while you had it open
Hey Jim, VW Darrin built the 360 FE engine and it's 90% done. Waiting for a few small bits. The frame was blasted and painted. Lot of parts needed to complete and $$$...Have enjoyed the Beetle build? I've really been learning a lot on this one.
Hate to say it, but I think you just screwed the pooch!! It would’ve been a lot easier to cut it all the way down to the rear hatch seam , and use the vent louvers from the donor car!!!! That way you would’ve had a lot more metal to work with and also to make a better weld!!!
Im just wondering why you didnt just cut out the entire window from the parts body and weld the entire thing in the one you are working on. Looking at it, it may have been easier and fixed a lot of the pitted seams on the rest of the window.
Ct I wish I would Have seen Your Video sooner, I would not have cut it the way you did, Extra welding for know reason, You should have cut it haft way up center of back window, And spit the seam, at bottom of vent, so All you had to weld was the 2 seams down the side,s and spot welded or mig in engine bay at vent bottom..Just my opinion., the vent looked great on parts car.Would have been easier to line up.
Bonsoir une amélioration des soudures par points très bien mais pour une greffe de précision d'une partie de la lunette arrière il vaut mieux utiliser un poste argon pour réaliser des soudures précises en continu sur de la tôle peu épaisse CT préciser vôtre profession si cela vous dérange pas merci
"Texas", your compassion for metal work really shows, your skills are catching up inclusive of your camera and editing / content...tanks for continuing sharing
Thank you! I do enjoy the metal work. It can be a bit scary at first but I think I'm starting to get the hang of it. =)
perfect. the seam you made where the glass goes, simply sensational, I never get tired of watching your videos. real surgery. great job CT. 👏👏👏👏👏
WOW! =) Thank you! =)
Outstanding CT!! You and Jason are both on the metal work!! What you’re doing is pretty serious fab work!!
Thanks man! I appreciate that! =)
Looking good, CT! Getting there...
Thanks Darryl! 👍
very hard piece to put in. Great job
You have good metal working skills and your work is meticulous.That window will fit perfectly.
Way to go CT. Glad to see you pushing forward on completing this project. Cant wait to see you driving it. God Bless friend
Thats the plan Mark! Thanks buddy! 👍
Heck yeah buddy! That looked really tough and as far I could tell you did great.
I love watching the progress of things.
Thank you! =)
this is the dream patina! I love this redish tones of oxidation. Mine has patina, but not like this. Iv sanded with 1200grit and did some clearcoat all over.. looks amazing
Thanks man! Yes, I'm trying to preserve as much as possible. It's not easy with all the metal work that needs to be done but I think we can save most of it.
@@CTmoog its looking awesome already... keep on moving! amazing work. Ill definitly watch it till its done.
I’ve spent countless hours, researching ways to remove the death foam from my 73 sports bug. I’ve been considering removing sections of sheet metal to make easier access; welding the sheet metal back in place after removing the death foam and thoroughly cleaning the cavity.
My beetle is a family owned California survivor and it’s currently in dry storage, so I’m not too worried about severe rust, but I need to take measures to prevent it.
My gratefulness to anyone willing to share their wisdom and knowledge with me, please! I’m a newbie with automotive restoration.
I'm planning on cutting access panels from the inside. I'll flange the edges and make covers plates from the same area of a parts car, then drill and dimple holes for countersunk screws. That way I can have access from behind for any bodywork and foam remediation and can paint, treat, even place some sort of non-absorbent substitute for the foam if desired, and nothing will get burned or melted from welding it back together in the end.
You’re a legend, I love this project
WOW! =) Thanks Daniel!
You got my attention! I've been watching your videos for a few days now. I have a 65 that I'm going to be redoing for my daughter. Your skills are mad! Keep it up. Oh I believe VW put that foam in the window corners to keep exhaust gasses from entering the interior spaces. I know it has its dark side, but they had a pretty good reason. I don't think you will have an issue with it as long as your exhaust is in good shape and most should vent out the louvers anyway.
DUDE !! YOURE KILLIN IT!! this video is awesome! your fab skills are getting really good. I feel like im learning a bunch from you
Thanks man! =)
Man it looks like brand new! Perfect work! 👍
Great. About time you drive a vintage VW product as a daily driver soon, probably beeing the biggest VW collector in your area. :)
Yes, hopefully soon! =)
There you go CT. Making progress on one project. Slow and steady wins the race. Consistent. I hope to start trying my hand at welding this summer!😊
Thanks my friend! =)
Nice repair, that was tough with the vents! Like the others I just wanted to say I would of used the coat hanger technique, even though I have no flippin' idea wth that is 😆
Thanks buddy! You're getting there. 👍 Bad Chad does it all the time. I couldn't find a coat hanger! =)
Pretty complicated job there and looks like you pulled it off admirably.
Thanks buddy! Yes, it was a bit of a challenge!
A grinder and paint - make you the welder you ain't! That is my motto for body panel repair! Your graft looked good there in the end.
Respect for your patience to get it to fit ...
Massive undertaking ….. can’t wait to see the completion
CT the metal surgeon, you rock!
Thanks Jeff! =)
Looking forward to you getting back on the Ghia.
Man CT! I gotta handed to you! That’s some impressive metal work there! Specially when dealing with metal trim around the window trim! 😮wow! Great job overall! Looking forward to seeing the next chapter!👌😎👍
Thanks man! =) It was a big challenge. It could have gone real bad....but I got lucky on this one. =)
Well done can’t wait for the next episode 👍
Thank you!
Nice job on the window patch. Check out the "coat hanger" technique to fill large gaps Bad Chad used recently on his Hudson project.
Thanks man! I will do that! Bad Chad is awesome! =)
Really good job. I admire your determination -
Fun times my friend, smart move cutting out those pieces. That has to save you a LOT of fabrication time 🫵🏻👍🏻
Thanks Stew👍 Yes, it saved a ton! I was considering doing it but I'm glad I didn't. I think it would have opened all kinds of problems.
Try practicing laying down a continuous bead instead of hundreds of tacks. I understand that you are trying to be careful, but a continuous need will not only look better, but it will be a stronger more reliable weld
Also, tacking the part down is to keep the part from pulling away from the work as you weld from one end to the other. In this case tacking each end and also in the middle both inside as well as outside would be sufficient to stabalize the work so you could then lay down a nice continuous uniform bead. Once grinded you can't see the difference, but every time you stop and start the weldyou are causing a weak spot in your weld. Your weld if done properly should have the appearance of a leaned over roll of dimes. What you've got, (no offense) looks like goat pellets, and I'm not talking about what they eat. I applaud you for learning as you go, but take a moment to watch a skilled welder or two on UA-cam demonstrate a good bead and listen when he explains the purpose behind tacking the ends first. You shouldn't start from one end and tack every inch or two until you get to the other end. That defeats the purpose. By the time you get to the other end, the price gas heated, warped, and pulled away from where you had it positioned. Tacking each end first will stabalize the part to the work so that warping is minimized.
Cómo siempre excelente trabajo amigo Saludos desde Argentina
👍😎👍
Getting stuck in! looking good and solid.
Thanks David! It turned out ok. =)
I am enjoying watching you and Jason learning metal working at the same time. You guys should get together and take some lessons from Larry and/or Mike F.
Onward!
Thanks man! Yes, it's great to have guys that are willing to share their knowledge with others. Larry, Mike, Darrin and so many others putting it out there. It helps everyone grow! =)
Cool! Same color, don't even need to paint it! LOL Nice job!
HAHA! =)
Excelente trabajo maestro.
Great job - you sure have come a long way!!!
Yay another beetle video 😊😊
Thank you! =)
I really believe you has improved your metal work skills. And I wish you keep on the path and evolve all about it, because I can see this future.
awesome work man lovin this build
Thanks man! I really appreciate that!
Oh yeah another beetle video hello CT !!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Justin! =)
@@CTmoog you got it man
That fit much better than I thought it would, seeing as how the windows are different heights. It's going to almost look too good to keep the patina.
Wow didn't know that windows were that bad 😳..you did a great job 👏 doesn't matter what the welds look like CT
They grind down...just have to make sure no holes or warping 😢
For gaps use coat hanger told ya this before ..Bad Chad technique
Yes, I've seen him do that. I was looking for one in the shop but couldn't find any.
Great job ! 👍 Thank's for the video .
Thank you! 👍 =)
For the wider gaps use a coat hanger to fill in the gap. Secondly I would have left more material at the top of the louvers. You created a very tough scenario by cutting so close to the louver itself
Yes it was a bit too close...
@@CTmoog If the louvers are even slightly distorted by heat, or get any weld splatter onto them it will be very hard to make them look right again. I would have left at least half an inch of metal above the tops and tried to cover the louvers to avoid splatter. Hope you get lucky. Otherwise really enjoyed seeing the results of your work.
CT, I have a Porsche 914 with its engine and trans that was good when it was parked. A young girl had the car and parked it in her father's barn when she got married. Years went by and the farm was sold. The new owners did not want the Porsche which was in pristine shape and pushed it out of the barn into the paddock. They moved it around a few times before I found out they had it. Somehow they dented every quarter panel. You know that they had no rust protection so the tin worm started its brutal business. When I found out about it (3 or 4 years later I believe) I made arrangements with the people to purchase it I have had it on my dad's trailer for the last three years as I have been recovering from getting hit on my 1957 Harley and nearly having my right leg taken off as well as learning how to walk again and fighting off the blood clots that went from my leg to my heart and lungs making me feel like I was drowning every time they closed off my ability to assimilate blood in my lungs. When I got the hospital the surgeons said I had less than six minutes if I did nt go right into surgery.I am doing much better and can walk without assistance. My dad wants his trailer back and I do not have a place for my beloved Porsche. I am coming back down to Florida in a few months to stay hopefully but I would like to find a good home for my beloved yellow 914.Do you think we might be able to work something out as either a collaborative venture or possibly you might want it. Your brother has that awesome place you do your builds in. I know that it really sucks to work on stuff alone and I would love to join forces and do some great things. message me and I will give you my number . I have a full mobile welding operation with an extra Miller Roughneck 2e that is an AC welder that I have DC conversion kit for. I have almost a full machine shop and will have a full machine shop soon We need to talk. Thanks-John P.S. I have a lot of glass for many years of bugs including wheel spacers and conversion 4 lug to five lug kits including an air-conditioning kit with a dashboard for a bug or a Kharmann Ghia.
VW was 1 of my Best cars, I restored a 65 Convertible back in 1980, It came out Beautiful, I payed 150 dollars, I was a body man for Mercedes Benz When I was done I drove the car, for 2 years and sold it for a 68 dodge charger rt 440 4 speed, The Man that Bought the car Took it to have it checked out by VW they Told him the Motor ran like Brand new ,I puy a complete new floor pan it Actually had working Heat, What a great car for snow, , If ct Stands for CT that's were I live, Danbury at the Time, Good luck with your Build, Hope it turns out to be everything you Hoped for GOD Bless
As always, doing an excellent job of welding, and I ask, why didn't you cut the entire back part where the grilles are and take advantage of it to clean the part that does not have easy access both for cleaning and painting, and likewise you would have cut the entire back of the donor car and thus remains in one piece since it looks like it is in good condition? Greetings from the Southeast of Mexico. Blessings.
Hi CT Great Work Not Bad CT Keep Going CT Perfect Work Done And It Will Look Great After The Final Work Done Super Work CT Nice 👌👌👍
Thank you!!! =) 👍
Just two suggestions. First, I think that you would have saved yourself a lot of trouble if you repaired the replacement patch before welding it into the car. Second, I suggest that you make a template of the whole window aperture before cutting out the other corner: that will make it easier and more accurate to align the replacement corner after you cut it out. Thanks for the videos and best wishes.
Thanks for the tips! I like the idea of making a template before cutting. I wonder if I could make one out of tape on the good window and transfer the lines onto the rusted window... um....that might work.
I've made a plywood template for a flat window on a bus. It could either be screwed to the pinchweld or you can make a serious of holes with a hole saw to feed clamps through.
When I added an extra Westfalia jalousie window to the right rear section of my '74 bus, I cut a donor section from a sliding door to change the asymmetrical rear side window to a rectangle. I trimmed away the curved rear section of the window, screwed the jalousie window to the pinchweld of what remained of the window opening, then screwed it to the donor section, using the actual window as the jig to tack it in place, a perk of a metal-framed window.
Correction: left rear jalousie, driver side.
Nice work Ct 👍
Thanks Andy! 👍
Talk about precise surgery! You cut it really close! That foam inside always rusts everything out in those more modern models. Somehow my impression was that bodies were the same from ‘58 to ‘64 and then ‘65 to ‘72. If the ‘73 is the same you got lucky. When you reinstall the glass make sure you use black butyl sealant inside the new rubber seal channels. That way you prevent that rust there in those window channels and especially that rear package tray. We’re getting there; like you say 😉👍
Thanks man! Yes, I guess the rear wind is the same from 65 to 71. It got taller in 72 but the bottom section appears to be the same size.
@@CTmoog Yes sir; you got lucky but hey! You’re getting into Mike F’n territory in terms of patch complexity 🤣😂. You’re doing great 👍
The CT drinking game. Everytime he says "alright guys, we're getting there" you have to take a drink.
I was conserned with you welding that close to the vent holes but after you cleaned up the welds it does not look that bad. I bet with a little clean up with a round file you can get them to look factory.
Yes, I know it was too close. I should have gone up just a bit. Yes, I think it will clean up ok. =)
excelente trabajo maestro.....
Hello Nice job ...from belgium
Thank you! =)
Отличная работа! Спасибо большое за ваши видео!
да ну нафиг. чувак жопорукий, почти как я )) смотрю это, только чтобы поржать. на самом деле он торопится. можно сделать с меньшими потерями.
Thank you! =)
Looking good CT😮👍💯
Thanks Atom! 👍
Can’t wait for the repaint video
Use coat hangar metal to fill in welding gap. That is what "Bad Chad" youtube car restorer does.
Saludos de Mexico CT
Little intense cutting close to the vents. But you’re doing good.
Yes it was a bit to close... =) Thank you!
@@CTmoog por que. N O terminas uno primero.
Great job 👍
Awesome job 👏 👍🏿
The way you’re doing it now you’ve got to worry about all kinds of warpage and distortion onto mention affective penetration at every one of those vent louvers!!
Hi CT, good work on that side so far. Like you said as long as the window fits all the rest is how you get there. You need to try Mike overlap cut and weld the gap trick. Probably not on this but a larger area when you get to one. try it out on your parts bug for practice
Thumbs up sir!
Thanks Richard! =)
Hey there, Mr. CT.. Tricky, ah? Hehe.. You cut soooo close to the louvers (grilles) it became difficult to weld.. One tip - when welding, try to cut on a good spot, which is accessible for later planishing work.. Avoid cutting next to corners or other difficult parts.
Also I see rot damage to the border of the window, which you need to have smooth and precise as it's the thing on which the rubber seals. Well, if things go too south, then you have still the option of modifying the seat and use some polyurethane adhesive, but that's another story. Defective or plasticised rubbers are also mostly the cause of window channels rot, because those retain water in the channel.
Other than that, I'm glad to see you making some serious metal work. Don't loose too much time in fiddling with the patches, just cut an approximate dimension a bit bigger than the hole, mark it on the car, dress the hole according to the marking, insert the patch and "glue" it. 😁It's easier. Cheers, keep on!
Not being as good at body work as you have become over the past few years, I would have removed the entire area around the window, which should have insured the glass would fit. That leaves you with some butt joints to weld. Since you already have a panel flanger/punch, it would be easier to make a lap joint, which is easier to finish. Yeah, I know that's the easy way out, but I'm an electrician not a metal worker! I used the flange method in replacing the entire roof line on a Gremlin. In that case, I joined it at the area aft of the B pillar. The original joint was welded and finished with solder. Mine looked OK, but wasn't really as pretty before filling and paint.
You have learned some amazing skills, and are willing to attack projects which I wouldn't have done in the middle sixties.
wow well done bro
good
Not easy work, but you done great. Keep CT
Thanks John! 👍
Hey mate you're doing great. I was watching through my hands though, when you welded that corner in - you were so close to those vents!!
Did you consider cutting out the whole rear window from the donor, say an inch or so around, then just cutting the 3 inches from its height? You could've fixed the whole thing in one go, and got rid of all that rusted metal on the lip. You could've even taken the vents - cut right down the the top of the engine lid and taken the vents from the donor as well. However the rust and patina on the '65s vents are lovely - maybe it was best to keep them.
I got that same gab in my back window.
1 quick question: why didn't you replace the whole rear window+vent with the one from the donor car?
That is exactly what I would have done. The best way to avoid any issues with fitting the glass later.
Hey Ozzy, for this project I'm trying to retain as much of the original "rust" patina as possible. Also, there are a lot of welded sections that hold everything together. It would have opened a whole bunch of can of worms if you know what I mean.
Lookin' good 👍
Thanks Patrick! 👍
Looks like that '73 has been driven into the ocean at some point in its life.
Hey Rob, Yes I think so.... =)
I would cut your patch panel over cutting that close to the grilles.... less chance of disaster or some warping.... leave as much metal as you can away from something that detailed... alot less finish work later too and easier to sand/grind if you have your joint farther away.. and put those repair pieces ( small rust areas and gaps ) in before you weld this piece in...again it is easier to do when it is off vehicle and you can add the metal and trim it easier ...
Whatever happened to the weld through primer on the backside and spraying rust converter on the inside of the cavity that you opened up??????.
I will spray everything inside once it's all welded up. There is plenty of access through the vents and inside the roof line. Makes a cleaner weld without all that stuff on it. Best to spray it after if you have access.
lookin good
When cutting it to size, cut less off and trim it in bit by bit with a grinder otherwise you'll over cut and end up with huge gaps like you had at the top. Also would have primered inside while you had it open
Inbetween welding runs wire brush clean the welding tip any material inside the welding tip distorts decontamination field of the argon gas
I think you can do the same with the swamp dragon!
Hey Andrew, I feel like I'm getting there! =)
Nice work CT!
What settings are using on your welder? Are you using .030 or .035 wire?
Thanks!
As long as youre window still fits I see an old Window seal there on the top so it seems you might be checking that
Thanks Terry! Yes, it seems to fit ok.
Why not cut the whole base of the window including the vents sense you have to fix both sides?
I considered that but there are too many weld points that connect to a ton of other sections that would have opened pandora's box...
@@CTmoog okay gotcha.
Hi CT! What ever happened with your Karmann Ghia? I thought I saw her for a second.
Great videos!!! Dave
Nice work.But all those tacks?Tad more heat i think would of helped.
You should have taken the full bottom with the grid since the size is the same. Or there is something preventing this?
Hows the dragon coming? Finished casting the engine block yet?
Hey Jim, VW Darrin built the 360 FE engine and it's 90% done. Waiting for a few small bits. The frame was blasted and painted. Lot of parts needed to complete and $$$...Have enjoyed the Beetle build? I've really been learning a lot on this one.
W hile welding why do you use a short wire (on the tip of the tig welder)?
Bom dia serviço tá ficando melhor do que encomenda
Give the engine to your local technical college, and the apprentices could learn from its basic construction.
Servus CT, what do you think of replacing the tailgate?
Condition of the 73 body looks better than the 65.
Hate to say it, but I think you just screwed the pooch!!
It would’ve been a lot easier to cut it all the way down to the rear hatch seam , and use the vent louvers from the donor car!!!! That way you would’ve had a lot more metal to work with and also to make a better weld!!!
sorry I meant to say mainly Parts Place may have *used* bug cabs possibly their price might be high though.
Stop thinking about what we think do your thing
Im just wondering why you didnt just cut out the entire window from the parts body and weld the entire thing in the one you are working on. Looking at it, it may have been easier and fixed a lot of the pitted seams on the rest of the window.
Ct I wish I would Have seen Your Video sooner, I would not have cut it the way you did, Extra welding for know reason, You should have cut it haft way up center of back window, And spit the seam, at bottom of vent, so All you had to weld was the 2 seams down the side,s and spot welded or mig in engine bay at vent bottom..Just my opinion., the vent looked great on parts car.Would have been easier to line up.
Bonsoir une amélioration des soudures par points très bien
mais pour une greffe de précision d'une partie de la lunette arrière il vaut mieux utiliser
un poste argon pour réaliser des soudures précises en continu sur de la tôle peu épaisse
CT préciser vôtre profession si cela vous dérange pas merci