Titan Fitness Wall Mounted Pull-up Bar: Modifications and Installation
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- Опубліковано 2 січ 2021
- This video highlights modifications and the installation of the Titan Fitness Wall Mounted Pull-up Bar.
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The modifications highlight yielding the areas around the mounting holes with a 4" C-clamp in order to make the mounting surface flat.
The installation highlights changing out the lag screws with 3/8" instead of the 5/16" lag screws that are supplied. As well as changing out the washers for the appropriate line screw diameter.
Pilot holes were drilled before torquing down the lag screws. I stepped up my pilot holes with three different diameters using the first drill bit of 9/64" then using a 3/16" and then finally arriving at a 1/4" pilot hole. The step up was used to ensure that I had a straight pilot hole to avoid splitting the studs.
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Great explanation of the mechanics behind the installation.
The amount of effort you put into fixing the flaws was more than $100 of trouble.
Kelso coming in hot with the expert advice. Thank you! 🙏🏻
I am engineer myself, love the math on those bolt loads! Im looking into making my own pull up bar based on this general shape! Thanks! Great video!
Sure thing! Glad someone else liked the numbers. Most of the time people aren't concerned with the numbers, but it's good to know your rigs capability. Good luck with yours.
Great video. Did you use 4in deck screws as well? How many deck screws did you use for each 2x6's?
I read in your comments that you suggested bracing the studs with a sheet of plywood. Would using horizontal 2x6s that cover the height of the pull up bar do the same? Thanks in advance!
Yes it would be similar. And it would be better than the way I braced in my video.
@@UnconventionalThinker thank you for sharing your knowledge. I will try this approach.
Hello and thank you for this video. My studs are unevenly spaced, so my plan is to install 2x4s horizontally across 3 or 4 studs and mount the pull up bar onto the 2x4s instead of drilling the Titan lag bolts into the studs. Will this idea work? And what screws do you recommend I use to mount the 2x4s to the studs?
It might work. Here are my concerns. I would use something bigger than a 2x4, maybe a 2x10 or 2x12, just because I would want as much out-of-plane bending capability as possible. You are reducing your out-of-plane stiffness by almost a factor of 10 by mounting the way you have to. So however you can get that stiffness back you'll notice less movement in your pull up bar the stiffer it is. I would also caution the use of lag screws in this situation and try to use a bolt and nut. Going into a stud you pick up more threads of the screw, you will be reducing your thread engagement and increase the chance of pulling out. It will be harder to install with the nut and bolt, as it would need to be installed to the 2x10/12 on the ground and then I would lag that to the studs, but it will ensure you have enough strength. Also when you install you will want your titan wall mounts to be as close to the studs as possible, this will make it stiffer. Hope this helps
@@UnconventionalThinker Thank you, friend!
@@UnconventionalThinker Perhaps I should take the safe route and mount this into the studs as intended. It will make the Titan mounts a little closer together, but that should be alright.
@unconventionalthinker ... I see wall mounted pull up bars that do not have the 2 extra angled support beams that run down the sides. Can those be mounted safely into a wood beam without ripping out? I always thought they need the extra support but based on this video it seems they don't take on too much of the pulling pressure. I have a huge horizontal wood beam I can attach to, but it is not wide (height wise) enough to fit a set up like this. So was wondering it the other style could work safely. Please let me know. Thanks
So the angled members help react the bending that is occurring from your weight being that distance from the wall. The top bolts are in tension and the bottom bolts are in compression. So that's why they are spread out. So far apart is due to the the cantilever beam that is occurring from you pulling up on that bar. I like this setup better, but it doesn't mean that other systems wouldn't work depending on what you want to do with your pull-up bar system. If you wanted to send me a picture of what you were thinking in my email that's listed on my profile I can let you know my thoughts on that
@@UnconventionalThinker ok sounds good I'll send an email over with some pics. Thanks so much for the reply
Great Video....Are your studs steel or wood ? Mine are steel and I'm not sure what kind of Anchors will work to anchor my 2x6's to the metal studs ?
I have wood studs. Yeah for metal studs you may want to research what works best on them as they are a bit different from wood.
I'm 5'11 and weigh between 255-260 lbs. Do you think that I would rip this bar out of a 2x4 stud wall while doing strict pull-ups, or should this be good to go? Thanks.
I think it would be fine. Strict is no problem. And the lag screws aren't really loaded to highly. If you tie the studs together by bracing the wall with plywood and then mount to that and the studs then you would have less movement in your wall, which would help with potential lag tear-out
@@UnconventionalThinker Sounds good. Thanks!
How would you go about it if you could only get one side of the pull-up bar to line up with a stud behind the wall? The other side would only have the timber brace or plywood to bite into as there would be nothing behind the drywall at that point? Thanks!
I don't think I would do that. Can you mount it to the ceiling? Or there any other studs in the area, you can make it narrower.
So I bought this pull-up bar and plan on installing it this weekend. I plan on using 2x6 boards like you did but horizontally. Question for you that I have to ask......Why wouldn't you use lag screws for the 2x6's for the extra support? It look's like you just used wood screws? Can you clarify why you chose that route VS. additional lag screws into the 2x6's? Thank you.
You could do that too. I did use lag screws after I used the decking screws to mount the 2x6s to the wall studs mainly to just hold it to the wall so I could put the lag screws in by hand; I wanted to torque them in by hand to ensure I wasn't shooting out the side of the stud. The lag screws were the main fasteners that transfer the load to the studs. The decking screws see a little bit of load, but the lag screws will see a majority of the load likely since they are much stiffer. All the decking screws could have failed in my setup and the whole assembly would have still been held to the wall by the lag screws.
Great informative video!
Just purchased same pull bar. Gonna make room in garage and mount in the same manner.
Should’ve shown your stress calcs
Haha I could have.
Is a piece of wood behind the pull up mounts necessary? Does it provide any additional support? I just got a pull up bar and have been looking for ways to mount it in my garage. I see some videos where people lay boards horizontal behind the mounts. Some videos with the mounts directly touching the drywall. Just trying to figure out what is best.
It would be best to lay them horizontal. The wall is generally pretty stable but doing it horizontal will add stability to your wall. Some folks even use plywood. I just had them vertical as to not crush the drywall.
@@UnconventionalThinker Awesome, thank you!
@@UnconventionalThinker
Question. I have the same bar and installing in my garage. My plan is to go directly into the studs. I’m just wondering if the studs would be strong enough to hold a big guy. I’m 6’8” tall 290lbs and in shape so I would definitely put lots of load on those studs.😂
Thanks
You should be fine as the lag screws can handle a good amount of load if installed correctly. If you plan on doing kipping pullups I would do some test to insure they're installed correctly. By test I would do a few kipping pullups, make sure nothing has tried to pull out, and some times going back and torquing the screws again to make sure they have the same tightness you had when originally installed.
@@UnconventionalThinker thanks for the quick reply.
Just standard pull-ups nothing out of the ordinary. I’ll buy larger bolts to make sure they are solid. I know the bar handles 500lbs. I was mostly concern if the home framing of the studs would not give up. 😂 I thinking I’m just too paranoid.
Would it be bad or risky to not use that plywood backing?
You can install this without any wood backing (plywood or in my case 2x6s) but I didn't want to possibly crush the drywall behind the bar frame. If you plan on kipping I would definitely suggest using plywood as it acts as a stiff brace between your studs. Mine is not braced, it still feels safe kipping but I currently only primarily do strict. But you would probably be fine without it, but when it comes to structural stuff I prefer to go overkill simply as to not cause damage to the house or myself ;). Hope this helps.
How do you measure it to be even between the 2? Frames?
I used a stud finder to find the studs and then used a level to make sure they were square
what's the advantage of screwing into the timber rather than directly into the wall?
The primary reason for the timber was to disperse the compressive load across the drywall better. I didn't want to crush or dent the drywall with the pull-up bar.
Thanks so much for making this! The comments have been really helpful too. I'm going to mount mine with the plywood. You mentioned to someone else that you'd use decking screws and then use the 4" lag bolts to secure the actual pull-up bar. So if mounting the plywood first with decking screws, where would you drill those in (and what size?) to secure the plywood first? Would it need to have several mount/screw points on the plywood's surface to make sure it's the most secure? Or just in the corners?
Glad it was helpful. So the decking screws would go through your plywood into your studs. These hold the plywood in place to help with stability of your studs (think of the horizontal line in the letter "H"), meaning you should feel your wall deflecting less or moving side to side when doing pullups. It will make everything more rigid. I think decking screws are a standard diameter, they just vary in length. A 2.5" length should be good enough. I would put enough (maybe 1 every 2 inches) in there so that the plywood feels very secured and tied into your studs (in a structural sense it's a shear panel). The 4" lag bolts will go through the plywood and your studs, the studs will be the primary structure your lag bolts are connected to. Hope this helps.
@@UnconventionalThinker Fantastic-- thank you so much!! Cheers to taking the extra time to not rip our walls down :)
Ok I'm back with another question 😅
I got 3/4" plywood cut to size and have measured and remeasured many times, making sure I know where the studs are. I pre-drilled into and marked the plywood and the wall to line everything up. But! I thought that I could have my husband hold the board up while I try to level it quickly and line it up with the studs but it's proving to be quite difficult to hold it and nudge it into place because it's so heavy. I'm wondering if I should just scrap the whole plywood thing and do 2x4's for more ease of installation. Will it be sturdy enough just in those 2 vertical studs? I know you said you'd use plywood if you had to redo it. I'm about 140lb and he's about 190lb, so not a ton of weight to support but I really don't want to rip the wall down (it's in a spare bedroom turned home gym...not a garage). It'll get a lot of use and pulling from the TRX straps and rings. Maybe hire someone to install the plywood for me? Or is there a better way to support it as you try to install it?
@NEdler22 I personally think the plywood would be much more superior to the 2x4 idea. But here's an idea, if you had 2 - 2x4 that were tall enough you could screw those into the front face of your plywood at the height you wish your plywood would be on your wall so that you can stand it up and the 2x4 will hold the weight like legs. Let me know if I can help any other way!
@@UnconventionalThinkerinteresting workaround! It might come to that. We need to try again and see if I can get it lined up and leveled more quickly and if not, I'll give that a try. Thanks for your response!
Hey @Unconventional Thinker. Thanks for the video!
I just got my Titan Fitness pull up bar today.
To clarify, you used the two 2x6s because you do not have studs in your wall? That might be a dumb question but I'm just making sure.
I plan to do the same or possibly use 3/4" Plywood with the same 4" Lag screws because the studs behind my drywall may be very old and of poor quality.
Thanks!
No worries. I had studs behind the drywall, but I didn't want to possibly crush the drywall by directly mounting to it, so I put the 2x6s up. I honestly think plywood might be the better option, because it will only reinforce your studs and brace them together. The studs are braced by an exterior sheet of plywood, but one interior such as the one you plan on putting up will only make your wall stronger, especially if you plan on kipping
Please tell me what length of the bolts us 3/8 x ?
They were 4" long
@@UnconventionalThinker thank you
What’s the size/measurements of those wood planks?
So they're 2 x 6's that are 48.5" long
@@UnconventionalThinker Thanks!
I think if I had to do it over I would have done a plywood sheet instead. This works but I should have framed out the studs better aka less movement of the studs
@@UnconventionalThinker - I"m not sure what you mean by using a plywood sheet. Would that be a 4x8 sheet or a 4x4 sheet? I can see where that would allow you to use more screws to anchor the whole chinup bar assembly to more studs instead of just the two vertical studs that you did use. Oh, and what thickness of plywood sheet would you have used - 1/2", 3/4", bigger? I just saw another video where the guy mounted his chinup bar on four horizontal planks that were mounted to the wall. But he was using lasers and levels and straight edges to make each plank line up correctly. Using a 4x4 sheet of plywood would have been a lot faster and easier. Now that I'm thinking about it, I wonder if a 4' width would be enough. Perhaps a 4x6 sheet of plywood would be better.
@@STBRetired1 yeah I was referring to a 4x8 3/4" plywood sheet. It would just create more stiffness between your studs. It would essentially be connecting all your studs together. Where I mounted mine there is an exterior wall so there was plywood on the other side essentially framing the studs together. If you don't plan on kipping it's really not a big deal I just like to create stiff connections.
What if you needed to install upside down?
Are you talking about on the wall upside down or putting it on the ceiling?
@@UnconventionalThinker on the wall upside down, due to a lower ceiling
I'm sure it would be fine upside down, you would be stressing the welds a bit differently but it's probably fine. I am unsure of what it buys you if the ceiling is limiting factor, are you unable to just lower it down on the wall and still keep it right side up?
Total weight of this pull up bar ?????
Maybe 25-30 lbs worth of steel
@00:48 the CCP thanks you for your service
what sort of wall do you have there?
It drywall on top of wooden studs.
you think I could mount the pull up bar on 2x4s mounted on a hollow brick wall?
or are your 2x4s bolted on the wooden studs through the drywall ?
@@cozminr they're bolted to the studs. If I could do it over again I would have done plywood instead.
The brick wall depends on whether it's a structural brick wall or if it's a veneer. I personally wouldn't mount to a brick veneer
@@UnconventionalThinker yeah it's only 1 layer of hollow brick. these new buildings suck you can't even hang a tv on a wall
I actually moved out of the house where I installed this, current house I'm installing one outside by put two 6x6 columns in the ground
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