Agree, the actual wood block used makes it a much better calculation for density. I have cut blanks from a plain sawn board. It is amazing how the density can varies.
I'm loving your videos and this one is right what I need. I target Northern Bluefin tuna (Longtails) with both lure & fly gear and tuna stickbaits are what I'm having fun building ... the technical details are very helpful. Thanks.
I’m an extremely novice lure maker and your videos are very helpful. Thank you for explaining things so well and showing the steps instead of just telling us what you did. Keep up the great work!!
Awesome to see such a variaty of lures getting build . From swimbaits to topwater and an amazing stickbait! Thanks for sharing! I will stay tuned for the next build!
Nice job. I have used same material, but it’s not cheap I Brazil, so I do when I get some remain material from any friend who works in sign and poster project. Congratulation to you channel and nice videos.
My god Man, I love your videos so much! I'm basing my baits and my channel on your advices! I just wanted to let you know that you are one of my master and I really appreciate the passion you put in it and the high knowledge you share with us! Thanks. (Sorry for my english, I come from Pasta)
Enjoyed your testing of home-made lures from your boat and actually got strikes and fish on. Would love to see more actual fishing vids on home made lures. Also what about surf fishing lures. In the Midwest we don’t get a chance to do much of this except on the Great Lakes beaches.
So interesting. You can post any (all) days of the week. I am notified of your posts and like this morning. I made my coffee and just sat down to watch full screen. Always enjoy your clear explanations and techniques. Thanks.
Ive been using Azek (PVC) trim boards. It has a specific gravity right around 0.5 which makes it ideal for gliders and baits that benefit from a higher SG. The trim board has no texture and thus no extra sanding. The trim board is easy to drill with very little drift when traditional through wiring. Simply draw your center and square it up to the drill press and then finish off with a hand drill. Nearly perfect every time unlike some of the softer woods where drill drift can be a problem. Ive been priming with epoxy but am going to test a plastic adhesion promotor in a spray can that would be a lot faster.
One thing about that PVC, do not make the lure too thin. The pvc has a tendency to snap when it is too thin. Cedar would be much stronger, and you can soak it in a number of things to make it even harder. Also, the pvc will stretch under pressure, so screw eyes will eventually pull out. The wire harness is a good idea.
Great video. I’ve been doing the harness slot on the bottom for all of my through wire baits but I’m definitely going to use the top. You made a lot of sense about the durability of having the wire tucked into the drill hole. Thanks!
Another great video, and i”m always looking forward to your next one. For me, any day you upload is fine as I usually watch in the mornings before work. Thanks again, Fran in NC
Lately I made some one piece gliding lures. For what I saw in the internet, the weight can be placed on the center of the lure, on two spots(if you divide the lure in two, one weight in each middle part of each side), and more or less all along the botom of the lure. I would like an explanation if you can, of the phyisics behind each of these 3 configurations and which action will be achieved with each. Regards, great video!!!
You should watch this video I made a while ago...it's a good introduction to weight/balance and hydrodynamic forces. ua-cam.com/video/acqIYMolH6s/v-deo.html
I hear ya on "the least favorite part" Glad to see you try out the PVC trim. I've often wondered if it would work and now I know it's probably not the best medium, especially if you're planning to do any detail carving.
Good upload buddy 👍 interesting information as always, the info on the weighting, density & hook eye placement was really helpful, will be good to see how the new material works in the water, Sunday uploads get a thumbs up too 👍 keep up the good work
The gliders (jerk baits) using AZEK trim board can be simply shaped with a router and round-over bit. What brand PVC trim board are you using? I want to try the lower SG board you featured for surface lures. I'm going to try using the AZEK glue to join two boards together to obtain a thicker working stock for lathe use. It is refreshing to visit a lure building site that explains things from a science/engineering perspective.
I'm not sure who makes the PVC...I had it left over from a house project. I've been using PVC plumbing glue to make thicker stock...clamp it overnight.
Hey there, I just know you as engineer, don’t know your name but I see you are in Florida I make lures my self and live in Florida myself I learn a lot from you, thanks for all the good tips Jesse
@@EngineeredAngler hello Franco, I want to ask you what kind of epoxy you use to make hard body crank baits?.....I see yours have a white finish before you paint them. thanks.....Jesse
I love your idea of the wire through the top. It makes for a much stronger section when the fish is pulling on the bottom hook. Just a thought, and I don't know if you've ever tried it, but, what about a straight wire with a heavy 80 or so lb swivel through the hole and the straight wire going through it. My thought is that it would aid in preventing a fish from throwing the lure off. Thoughts?
That's actually a configuration that I have seen on really big heavy lures, for tuna and GT's, its strong. I never thought about it keeping the fish from throwing the hook...but I think you're right. Anything that "softens" the connection between the hook and the lure mass will help. Thank you...good question.
How did you manage to make that perfect harness, with all the hairpin turns, to fit perfect in the lure? That’s incredible work dude!! It’s great to see your home made lures and videos on any given day. 👊
I use a few different wire diameters but mostly I use .035 inch stainless. I always dig through the Internet for the best price, so my source changes. I buy my plastic bibs pre-made from lure parts online. Thanks for watching.
So I am making/testing a typical swim bait lure where the cross section that is basically oval shape. The lure suppose to float. Rather than at 90 at the upright position, it floats at a slight tilt . Say about 15 deg to one side. So the center of buoyancy is off from the center of gravity of the lure, where the center of gravity should be along the centerline of the vertical oval. To correct: I need to add weight on the opposite side to try balance it out. It will likely be a trial and error. Also I will need to avoid adding weight, in an amount exceeding the overall lure density of 1 g/cm3 w some margin to avoid having it not float anymore. Does that make sense?
Very interesting, could you go into more detail on how you calculate the density and buoyancy of different materials. I did come across something once on density of different timber but would it be too much to ask ? for something downloadable, just for future reference as it would take a lot of guess work of the equation. 👍👍👍👍👍
Posting on Sundays is fine. Working from home to make a living is time consuming as we all are putting more than 8 hrs a day. Like that you are trying different common materials.
I totally know what you're saying I'v been working from home, running an engineering office...the phone calls never stop. Thank you so much for spending some of your precocious time watching my videos, cheers.
Great video as always!!! thank you for sharing. Instead of using epoxy to fill the groove can you use baking soda and superglue? is it a good method? I ask because im in the process of making bigger stickbaits with thicker wire and the amount of epoxy needed would be costly on multiple pieces.
I make a lot of lures and use baking soda and super glue for sealing throughwire slots and I’ve never had any issues with it coming out. Just make sure you use a really thin super glue so it seeps down into the baking soda. Thick super glue will only make a skin on the top.
The baking soda/super glue trick is excellent, I learned it back when I was making model boats... 40 years ago... and it's still an excellent trick. The limitation for this application is that it's hard to be sure that you have filled a cavity or drilled out hole. The baking soda acts as an accelerator to the CA glue since it is alkaline, has a high PH. This means that even really thin glue can create a cap and not penetrate. So for this lure I wanted to use epoxy so that I could be sure the entire cavity was filled and the wire is fully encapsulated.
Agree, the actual wood block used makes it a much better calculation for density. I have cut blanks from a plain sawn board. It is amazing how the density can varies.
That’s slick using the little baggie to mix the epoxy, all kinds of applications for that.
The little plastic ziplock bag trick is great! The lure is looking good too..
Thanks 👍
Seconded. Brilliant.
Sunday is fine, great tips for stick baits. Never thought of placing wire harness from the top. 👍
Thanks.
I'm loving your videos and this one is right what I need. I target Northern Bluefin tuna (Longtails) with both lure & fly gear and tuna stickbaits are what I'm having fun building ... the technical details are very helpful. Thanks.
Happy that you find it helpful
Hi Franco, any day of the week is great for me as what is important is the good material you will share with all of us!!!
Cool, thanks
I’m an extremely novice lure maker and your videos are very helpful. Thank you for explaining things so well and showing the steps instead of just telling us what you did. Keep up the great work!!
Glad it helps...
your wire slot design is super clever, I may have to try it myself.
Sunday uploads are excellent.
Awesome to see such a variaty of lures getting build . From swimbaits to topwater and an amazing stickbait! Thanks for sharing! I will stay tuned for the next build!
Glad you enjoyed! Thank you.
Nice job. I have used same material, but it’s not cheap I Brazil, so I do when I get some remain material from any friend who works in sign and poster project.
Congratulation to you channel and nice videos.
Thank you,
Boa pesca.
My god Man, I love your videos so much! I'm basing my baits and my channel on your advices! I just wanted to let you know that you are one of my master and I really appreciate the passion you put in it and the high knowledge you share with us!
Thanks. (Sorry for my english, I come from Pasta)
Your English is very good 👍 thanks for the kind words.
So interesting way to calculate the final weight of the lure!! Thanks a lot!
Thank you for watching
Enjoyed your testing of home-made lures from your boat and actually got strikes and fish on. Would love to see more actual fishing vids on home made lures. Also what about surf fishing lures. In the Midwest we don’t get a chance to do much of this except on the Great Lakes beaches.
Coming soon! I'm a total novice surf fishing with lures but, I'm totally stocked to make lures for that exact purpose.
At 8:30, I thought you might put it on a lathe and take it down some. Great job showing us each step!
I thought abut the lathe...that will be another experiment.
The backwards forstner...brilliant!
So interesting. You can post any (all) days of the week. I am notified of your posts and like this morning. I made my coffee and just sat down to watch full screen. Always enjoy your clear explanations and techniques. Thanks.
Thanks so much!
Ive been using Azek (PVC) trim boards. It has a specific gravity right around 0.5 which makes it ideal for gliders and baits that benefit from a higher SG. The trim board has no texture and thus no extra sanding.
The trim board is easy to drill with very little drift when traditional through wiring. Simply draw your center and square it up to the drill press and then finish off with a hand drill. Nearly perfect every time unlike some of the softer woods where drill drift can be a problem.
Ive been priming with epoxy but am going to test a plastic adhesion promotor in a spray can that would be a lot faster.
Good info...thank you
Thanks for all your video's can you show how to put wire through with out cutting in half and lure be broken back thanks
I have a few videos where I show that technique.
Another fantastic tutorial.
Thank you
One thing about that PVC, do not make the lure too thin. The pvc has a tendency to snap when it is too thin. Cedar would be much stronger, and you can soak it in a number of things to make it even harder. Also, the pvc will stretch under pressure, so screw eyes will eventually pull out. The wire harness is a good idea.
Great video. I’ve been doing the harness slot on the bottom for all of my through wire baits but I’m definitely going to use the top. You made a lot of sense about the durability of having the wire tucked into the drill hole. Thanks!
Glad it helped
Another great video, and i”m always looking forward to your next one. For me, any day you upload is fine as I usually watch in the mornings before work. Thanks again, Fran in NC
I appreciate that!
Lately I made some one piece gliding lures. For what I saw in the internet, the weight can be placed on the center of the lure, on two spots(if you divide the lure in two, one weight in each middle part of each side), and more or less all along the botom of the lure.
I would like an explanation if you can, of the phyisics behind each of these 3 configurations and which action will be achieved with each. Regards, great video!!!
You should watch this video I made a while ago...it's a good introduction to weight/balance and hydrodynamic forces.
ua-cam.com/video/acqIYMolH6s/v-deo.html
Cool trick for applying the epoxy. Have to remember that one
Thank you! Cheers!
I use the pvc foam board for my one offs and my models!.... great stuff, being a builder I get it free, well left over free....
Can you do a video of making the internal wire and what wire do you use. That’s if you haven’t done one already
Here are some videos I made on the wire harness...enjoy.
ua-cam.com/play/PLEVBv_zywucR1daeR5wwkcZeqU-GomrKd.html
another great video. coming in from the top makes sense. ill be doing that.
Nice work and Sundays are good
Cool, thank you.
I hear ya on "the least favorite part"
Glad to see you try out the PVC trim. I've often wondered if it would work and now I know it's probably not the best medium, especially if you're planning to do any detail carving.
thanks for all the brilliant tips! they are very usefull
I'm glad to share.
Good upload buddy 👍 interesting information as always, the info on the weighting, density & hook eye placement was really helpful, will be good to see how the new material works in the water, Sunday uploads get a thumbs up too 👍 keep up the good work
Thanks 👍
The gliders (jerk baits) using AZEK trim board can be simply shaped with a router and round-over bit.
What brand PVC trim board are you using? I want to try the lower SG board you featured for surface lures.
I'm going to try using the AZEK glue to join two boards together to obtain a thicker working stock for lathe use.
It is refreshing to visit a lure building site that explains things from a science/engineering perspective.
I'm not sure who makes the PVC...I had it left over from a house project. I've been using PVC plumbing glue to make thicker stock...clamp it overnight.
Hey there, I just know you as engineer, don’t know your name but I see you are in Florida
I make lures my self and live in Florida myself
I learn a lot from you, thanks for all the good tips
Jesse
Most of my buddies call my Franco....I live north Florida.
@@EngineeredAngler hello Franco, I want to ask you what kind of epoxy you use to make hard body crank baits?.....I see yours have a white finish before you paint them. thanks.....Jesse
I love your idea of the wire through the top. It makes for a much stronger section when the fish is pulling on the bottom hook. Just a thought, and I don't know if you've ever tried it, but, what about a straight wire with a heavy 80 or so lb swivel through the hole and the straight wire going through it. My thought is that it would aid in preventing a fish from throwing the lure off. Thoughts?
That's actually a configuration that I have seen on really big heavy lures, for tuna and GT's, its strong. I never thought about it keeping the fish from throwing the hook...but I think you're right. Anything that "softens" the connection between the hook and the lure mass will help.
Thank you...good question.
awesome....beautiful work
Thank you! Cheers!
funny i was working with the same pvc today (actually making a mount for my spray chrome air manifold) and was think that i might work for lures..
Give it a shot.
Just great, I m waiting for the next vid!.!!
Thanks. ..working on the next one right now.
How did you manage to make that perfect harness, with all the hairpin turns, to fit perfect in the lure? That’s incredible work dude!! It’s great to see your home made lures and videos on any given day. 👊
I made it in a hurry with that titanium wire and was super revealed when it actually fit...Thanks bro.
Sunday’s are fine
Where do you get your wire for a Thru wire and what gauge? and where do you get your lexan polycarbonate and what thickness?
I use a few different wire diameters but mostly I use .035 inch stainless. I always dig through the Internet for the best price, so my source changes.
I buy my plastic bibs pre-made from lure parts online.
Thanks for watching.
How do you determine what the minimum weight on the lure to ensure that the lure will turn right side up once it hits the water?
The key is a buoyant lure weighted low in the body
So I am making/testing a typical swim bait lure where the cross section that is basically oval shape. The lure suppose to float. Rather than at 90 at the upright position, it floats at a slight tilt . Say about 15 deg to one side.
So the center of buoyancy is off from the center of gravity of the lure, where the center of gravity should be along the centerline of the vertical oval.
To correct: I need to add weight on the opposite side to try balance it out. It will likely be a trial and error. Also I will need to avoid adding weight, in an amount exceeding the overall lure density of 1 g/cm3 w some margin to avoid having it not float anymore. Does that make sense?
Отличное видео! 👍
Very interesting, could you go into more detail on how you calculate the density and buoyancy of different materials. I did come across something once on density of different timber but would it be too much to ask ? for something downloadable, just for future reference as it would take a lot of guess work of the equation. 👍👍👍👍👍
Great suggestion!
that would be a fantastic video on how you do your calculations ...
Where can I buy lure blanks (bulk) with top eye - thank you !
Sorry, I don't know...I make my own.
I learn from you🙏
How do you build a bait to suspend?
I'll do a video soon.
New subscriber, post when it works for you. I'll be there any day.. Unless they're biting! Thanks nice video.
Thank you
Posting on Sundays is fine. Working from home to make a living is time consuming as we all are putting more than 8 hrs a day. Like that you are trying different common materials.
I totally know what you're saying I'v been working from home, running an engineering office...the phone calls never stop. Thank you so much for spending some of your precocious time watching my videos, cheers.
Watch out for that pvc dust 🏴☠️🏴☠️🏴☠️
Great video as always!!! thank you for sharing. Instead of using epoxy to fill the groove can you use baking soda and superglue? is it a good method? I ask because im in the process of making bigger stickbaits with thicker wire and the amount of epoxy needed would be costly on multiple pieces.
I make a lot of lures and use baking soda and super glue for sealing throughwire slots and I’ve never had any issues with it coming out. Just make sure you use a really thin super glue so it seeps down into the baking soda. Thick super glue will only make a skin on the top.
The baking soda/super glue trick is excellent, I learned it back when I was making model boats... 40 years ago... and it's still an excellent trick. The limitation for this application is that it's hard to be sure that you have filled a cavity or drilled out hole. The baking soda acts as an accelerator to the CA glue since it is alkaline, has a high PH. This means that even really thin glue can create a cap and not penetrate. So for this lure I wanted to use epoxy so that I could be sure the entire cavity was filled and the wire is fully encapsulated.
EA is right about the capping. If I need to fill a deeper area I build it up in layers. However in this situation the epoxy would be much more precise
👍👍👍
What drill is used to pierce the eyes?
It is called a forstner bit.
@@EngineeredAngler thanks...
Thanks, help me full
Happy to help
what hour epoxy are you using?, cant find online
In the description...I went in and added a link in case anyone else wants it.
Thank you for watching.