+Jamie Buckley For inches and feet per minute, yes. To get rpm, speed (surface feet per minute) x 12 (inches per foot) / (diameter x pi (inches)), or sfm x 3.82 / diameter. In his example, you have 50x3.82/0.75=254.7 rpm.
Adam I really appreciate the content you are putting out. I watch your videos EVERY day. I'm a fabricator and tig welder by trade, but love to machine when I can. I have learned a lot watching your videos. Just wanted to say thank you. There aren't a whole lot of tradesmen left. You're definitely one of the best. Can't find many with the hunger for knowledge like you. Cheers man. - Dean
Nice Shop talk topic .............as a Tool and die maker apprentice trained over 40yrs I was told at 16yrs old for reaming as you say.......half speed twice feed. love your channel
Adam, A few years ago, one of my co-workers found that his smart phone calculator app was faulty. It took him and another guy with _his_ smart phone to determine that whoever programmed the first guy's calculator app had goofed on the trig functions by not converting from radians to degrees. I just thought I'd mention that anyone that uses an app for real work needs to check their calculator app against something they _know_ is correct. And I use the old copies of the Machinists Handbook & Machinery's Handbook too because the new versions of the Machinery's Handbook have left out info that was in the older ones like spindle tapers, etc., that apply to older machines. I had to bring in a very old edition to work to use to design tooling for an old machine because the then-newer version that work provided didn't have the old info on the spindle tapers/specs. Thanks for great videos!
Adam, I've been an avid watcher of Tubalcain, Tom Lipton, Wranglestar & Kieth Rucker for years now and have heard your name come up a few times but never payed too much attention. Anyway when I saw the episode where you met Mr. Pete at your shop I figured I check out your channel. I have been laid up for the last two days with a bad back and have watched your entire series on the Rotary Welding Table and many others as well. I have to compliment you for your close attention to details (rarely seen anymore these days) exacting specifications, neat clean shop, no use of profanity, and you seem like a genuine type of guy that takes pride in what you are doing! That table will come in quite handy for many things other than just welding!! I am a guy who is VERY detail oriented and people who I do work for complain I am TOO much of a perfectionist and I take too long to do things. I suppose they are correct, but when I do something - it is done RIGHT - so I REALLY appreciate the way you work. Most jobs I do, I do more for me then for the people I do them for. I am not a Machinist by trade but have really gotten into it over the last 8 years. I did take a few Machinist Shop classes in H.S. but never thought I'd be into at that time. I have a pretty complete workshop but do NOT have a Milling Machine or a Lathe yet. Still looking for an American made lathe but all the ones I have seen so far are either to beat up, missing too many parts, or to large for my needs. My Dad had an Atlas bench lathe but sold it without asking me if I wanted just before he died. Anyway, I am glad I found your channel and keep up all your good work, thorough videos, and excellent attitude. I have another few days to get my back in shape so I will be watching many more of your vids. Regards! BobbyW
Good lesson. I think you're a naturally good teacher because you're not convinced you know everything in the entire civilized universe. Unlike some others.
Adam, really enjoy your videos. I am a hobby machinist which means I just pick up machine processes by trial and error, lots of reading and pestering the real machinists that I know. I have learned much from your videos,,thanks a lot!!!!! Steve Rich from Illinois.
just a few words about old books: I love them !! because they cover more aspect of the process that now are hided behind the capabilities of the new improved machines. I have a lot of books like that of electronics subject for example and even if i have to choose a chip to do a complex thing.. knowing in detail what's inside the chip, make you a better designer. At the same way is for every aspect of manufacturing !!! your video are great !!! greetings from Italy
I learned 8m/min speeds for reamers and 25m/min on drills rule of thumb, and in and out in cutting direction on machines. Hand reaming is another beast by itself. In the rules 0.2mm left over from the drill bore. (sorry I learned the metric system). I asked you on a previous video of yours about having combination systems standardized. Thanks for the video.
You're one of the few youtubers (along with both Keiths and some of the other bigger guys) that actually use a reamer properly. Even in person, I see people misusing them so much. Just me personally. When I see a guy go to make a "precision" 3/8" hole and they grab a nicked up 5/16" bit to get the pre-reamed hole size.....I like to sit back and smile because I know shortly afterwards, they are going to try and cram that nice new reamer through that hole thats 50thou too small, through that piece of steel at 1000 rpm.....while using tap magic nonetheless. 5seconds into the cut, the smoke arises, then you see the cutter taking on a nice straw color.....then they dump on more tap magic.....more smoke......then you begin to wonder if they realize the reamer is fucked right off and they're now onto trying to burnish a hole through the material. Not having high school machine shop around anymore is one of the biggest tragedies in this country. If I would have done that in HS machine shop, Mr Beckett would have literally hit me in the back of my head and made me buy a new reamer for the cabinet. Then again, I wouldn't have, because I knew better and I respected the machine shop tool cabinet and everything in it.
Great comments Brian! Always a pleasure to hear from you. You painted a picture about the ill informed shop guy trying to ream a hole. Maybe go by them and mention to watch my Shop Talk's. :)
Interesting observation Brian. If folks had to pay out of pocket for their tools, they would take care of them better. A lot is to be said on how they were taught. A smack in the back of the head or a boot in the arse taught us a lot before the world became PC.
Hello Adam, Gotta love that Audel series of books. Everything under the sun from boilers to hydraulics. I still have several of them. That was our source if you couldn't find someone who knew it before TV, CDs, You Tube, etc. They were an invaluable source. There must have been way over a hundred in their series. Very practical for the guys whose hands were dirty. Another great video. Take care. Doug
Hi Adam, last month ordered MACHINERY'S HANDBOOK 23rd edition from Amazon from USA, price including delivery to UK cost me £33.50, which was very reasonable. Book is great, I like it.
Thanks Adam, I took you advice and went out and practised on some drops I had. The speeds part of this skill seems to be much easier to grasp than the feeds part. I don't have power down feed on my mill and my elbow is hard to calibrate.. lol
+Billy T Billy, way to get out there and practice. When hand feeding, which is normally how I do it, just feel it, you can feel the reamer feeding in by keeping some down pressure on the handle. Just takes some practice.
I was always taught a good starting point is half the speed double the feed. When I ream stainless with HSS I cant get a good finish unless I spin it super slow. Was reaming lots of 3/8 and 7/32 in 17-4 and going 60RPM. Finish was perfection, and cutting on size. Lots of Rocoll Grease.
I always run my reamers at 50% or less of the drill speed as well. Same for counterbores, all though they are usually closer to 25%. Drills I judge by chip color. I run heavy pressure on drills, but light on reamers. I guess I could use heavier feed, but they always seem to cut plenty fast, no need to push it. Counterbores I use medium-heavy pressure.
Adam, what amazes me is how old some of your tooling is, yet how accurate it is to this day. You pointed to the Monarch which was made in what, the 1940s? What kind of maintenance is needed to keep it as precise as it is today, and does anything ever break on it? Maybe a short video on maintenance would be cool.
It was built in 1942. It's still a great machine, but it does have it worn areas. Most machinists know how to work around those and they won't prevent you from using the machine and getting good work done.
I have been in a factory maintaining, Improving and developing dies for at-lease 10 years now, but I enjoy to work in a jobbing shop ( under the table) to keep my skills up. Your Videos are enjoyable to watch and you have a talent for teaching as well as doing, It has helped me with learning new ways of holding work pieces, or reminding me of the proper speeds and feeds, please keep it up. Myself i never cuddle the machinery's handbook, its all feel, but reminders are nice. Is it proper to stop the spindle after finishing reaming a hole, Then extracting the reamer, so a reamer does not cut the hole oversize?
My tech school instructors specifically told us not to stop the reamer before withdrawing it. Some said it was to avoid vertical scratches / galling from chips, others said anyone who didn't back the reamer out at the feed in rate didn't really want a nice finish anyway. Even in my CNC programs, I feed in and out with the reamer spinning.
The rule of thumb that I remember is RPM = 4 *CS (FPM)/DIA (Inches) * Cutting edges. Since a reamer has more cutting edges than a drill it makes sense to run it slower. I would probably say 1/3 drilling rpm if you are drilling at close to the max drill RPM. The 4 comes from dividing 12 /pi rounded down to 3.
I think that 3 or 4 times slower speeds and 3 or 4 times higher feed for reamer is much better than 1/2 and x2. Anyway carbide drills and reamers are more heat resistant and allow higher speeds, also they cut straighter holes than HSS tools. Also important is amount of material to remove by reamer. There are also roughing reamers and finishing reamers. Roughing reamers can remove more but after this you need to run finishing reamer. To get a good concentricity it is necessary to counter bore the hole by using boring bar (this have to be done after drilling and before reaming).
Franklin D. Jones,an author of machine shop books that sticks out. You cannot go wrong buying his books!He coauthored the first edition of Machinery's Handbook in 1914. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franklin_D._Jones en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machinery%27s_Handbook
Hmmmm, I worked at Boeing in the 60's on the wing line for the 727 and we used two step reamers every day. Weird, that book didn't show them at all :--))))
Oops. One more thing for you to add for the next go-round: How much do you leave in the hole to ream. Because It's easy, using my set of 1/16 to 1/2 by 64ths drills I usually just drill one size under and ream the rest. (so 1/64th). Does that sound about right ?
Good information. I was in the shop earlier tonight and saw the arbor that the jumbo 3 3/4" shell reamer was on. Not something that'd do you any good, as it's about 16" long with a 1 1/2" drive spindle.
How much of a difference would it make interms of time and tool wear would it make if you could superhumanly know all your speeds and feeds for every operation? I know whatever response I might get would be just as good of a guess as the next guy, but I mean it's interesting to think about how many more holes could be drilled if you were going 10% faster, or running X amount more coolant. Not just the number of holes in a day, but also the number of holes you could get out of that drill bit before needing to regrind it. Just something I was taking the time to ponder. Ow and on an interesting fun fact we don't really have a way of measuring sharpness... Seems sort of crazy when it's something so crucial to pretty much everyone's daily life.
Have you ever tried Stefan's technique of using coolant on reaming for close fits? In a couple of his vids he claims that it is the best way to prevent going oversize with reamers instead of cutting oil, which tends to give you a loose fit...thanks for the video as always, it's appreciated. P.S. I am in the middle of a series on Taper Pin Hole Drilling and Reaming, so this is great timing.
Is that a future Shop Talk subject knocking? I'd like to see a careful side by side comparison, just to know whether it's a consistent difference or just a personal preference. Hole size / quality with oil, coolant, dry; for both drilling and reaming actually. I wonder if you and the other UA-cam Machining veterans even agree on it.
Thanks Abom. Now, how do I get my co-worker to accept he's been reaming way too fast?! all of our reamers are completely worn out or the tips are literally burnt to a nice purple blue. 😬
Kiruna mine used to be a hill, now it's a pit but from the start (1898) it produced the finest steels and is the largest iron ore mine in the world today. Pronouncing Luossavaara-Kiirunavaara Aktiebolag as the company name however lead to the use of Norway Iron instead, hope that is ok. If Germany had won the war it would have been because of the iron from this mine although they sourced half their source from inside Germany. 60% iron in this ore and high quality at that makes for an exceptional resource.
speaking of handbooks, i've noticed over the years how the Machineries handbook has gradually been sliding into a poorly designed book. Not the information inside it, but the pages themselves. So very thin and near transparent and difficult to read at times. The text, formulas, tables and pictorial graphics "bleeding" through from the other side of the page.
Whether it's math, climbing, or machining, I've found that the best books have that plain, single color binding. Quiet on the outside, quality on the inside.
You can get a CD now so you can use it on your shop PC. Agree the latest MHB are very fragile and do not contain as much of the "old" info they used to. regards
The birds are getting ticked off that you have not built their Abom size automatic seed feeder!!! Better get on it before they eat all your paperback books!!!
Couple of those house wrens built a nest on top of my battery charger which was sitting on a shelf and a coupe of times I needed to use it but just borrowed the neighbors.
Hey Adam, where does the number 3.82 come from? Why that number? EDIT: Thank you everyone. Yup, it makes sense when you know where the number comes from. (I'm not a machinist, just an interested lay-person and wasn't familiar with the value)
Barry Gerbracht Mentioned in the comments somewhere. It's just 12 divided by Pi to convert inches into feet. Easy way to cancel out two constants so you're not scratching your noggin all day
Actually I have two of them. They always like to come in the shop and nosy around when I'm working and have the big door open. It's funny watching them hop around and look at everything.
You need to make you a book cradle for your beautiful vintage machining books. If you don't know what I mean here's a good article on what I mean. It's just something that is done for books that are anywhere from a couple hundred years old to a couple thousand. libraries.mit.edu/news/tag/book-rest/
Much of that answer would be a bit personal to explain here. I'd love to have my own full time shop but right now I am comfortable with how things are.
For anyone wondering where 3.82 came from, it is 12/pi to convert diameter to circumference and inches to feet.
Thanks Barry!
Barry Gerbracht Thanks for letting us know. I was wondering, but I figured I better read all of them comments first before I made my own.
so 3.82 is a constand for figuring all rps on all reamer speeds?
+Jamie Buckley For inches and feet per minute, yes. To get rpm, speed (surface feet per minute) x 12 (inches per foot) / (diameter x pi (inches)), or sfm x 3.82 / diameter. In his example, you have 50x3.82/0.75=254.7 rpm.
Adam I really appreciate the content you are putting out. I watch your videos EVERY day. I'm a fabricator and tig welder by trade, but love to machine when I can. I have learned a lot watching your videos. Just wanted to say thank you. There aren't a whole lot of tradesmen left. You're definitely one of the best. Can't find many with the hunger for knowledge like you. Cheers man. - Dean
Thanks Dean, good to hear the videos are helping you out too.
Nice Shop talk topic .............as a Tool and die maker apprentice trained over 40yrs I was told at 16yrs old for reaming as you say.......half speed twice feed.
love your channel
Great, thanks. Love your stuff, it helps a lot.
Adam, A few years ago, one of my co-workers found that his smart phone calculator app was faulty. It took him and another guy with _his_ smart phone to determine that whoever programmed the first guy's calculator app had goofed on the trig functions by not converting from radians to degrees. I just thought I'd mention that anyone that uses an app for real work needs to check their calculator app against something they _know_ is correct.
And I use the old copies of the Machinists Handbook & Machinery's Handbook too because the new versions of the Machinery's Handbook have left out info that was in the older ones like spindle tapers, etc., that apply to older machines. I had to bring in a very old edition to work to use to design tooling for an old machine because the then-newer version that work provided didn't have the old info on the spindle tapers/specs. Thanks for great videos!
Your very intelligent, you don't meet too many ppl who know as much as you do about machining. Thanks for the knowlege adam you da man!
Adam,
I've been an avid watcher of Tubalcain, Tom Lipton, Wranglestar & Kieth Rucker for years now and have heard your name come up a few times but never payed too much attention. Anyway when I saw the episode where you met Mr. Pete at your shop I figured I check out your channel. I have been laid up for the last two days with a bad back and have watched your entire series on the Rotary Welding Table and many others as well. I have to compliment you for your close attention to details (rarely seen anymore these days) exacting specifications, neat clean shop, no use of profanity, and you seem like a genuine type of guy that takes pride in what you are doing! That table will come in quite handy for many things other than just welding!!
I am a guy who is VERY detail oriented and people who I do work for complain I am TOO much of a perfectionist and I take too long to do things. I suppose they are correct, but when I do something - it is done RIGHT - so I REALLY appreciate the way you work. Most jobs I do, I do more for me then for the people I do them for. I am not a Machinist by trade but have really gotten into it over the last 8 years. I did take a few Machinist Shop classes in H.S. but never thought I'd be into at that time. I have a pretty complete workshop but do NOT have a Milling Machine or a Lathe yet. Still looking for an American made lathe but all the ones I have seen so far are either to beat up, missing too many parts, or to large for my needs. My Dad had an Atlas bench lathe but sold it without asking me if I wanted just before he died.
Anyway, I am glad I found your channel and keep up all your good work, thorough videos, and excellent attitude. I have another few days to get my back in shape so I will be watching many more of your vids.
Regards!
BobbyW
Good lesson. I think you're a naturally good teacher because you're not convinced you know everything in the entire civilized universe. Unlike some others.
Adam, really enjoy your videos. I am a hobby machinist which means I just pick up machine processes by trial and error, lots of reading and pestering the real machinists that I know. I have learned much from your videos,,thanks a lot!!!!! Steve Rich from Illinois.
i love those old books. I need to keep my eye out for one of those books.
just a few words about old books: I love them !! because they cover more aspect of the process that now are hided behind the capabilities of the new improved machines. I have a lot of books like that of electronics subject for example and even if i have to choose a chip to do a complex thing.. knowing in detail what's inside the chip, make you a better designer. At the same way is for every aspect of manufacturing !!! your video are great !!! greetings from Italy
Always a pleasure to watch
Adam, thanks for you giving this real world proven to work knowledge. I always learn a nugget each time I watch you and several others.
Really enjoy the extra content you have been putting out lately.
I learned 8m/min speeds for reamers and 25m/min on drills rule of thumb, and in and out in cutting direction on machines. Hand reaming is another beast by itself. In the rules 0.2mm left over from the drill bore. (sorry I learned the metric system).
I asked you on a previous video of yours about having combination systems standardized.
Thanks for the video.
You're one of the few youtubers (along with both Keiths and some of the other bigger guys) that actually use a reamer properly. Even in person, I see people misusing them so much.
Just me personally. When I see a guy go to make a "precision" 3/8" hole and they grab a nicked up 5/16" bit to get the pre-reamed hole size.....I like to sit back and smile because I know shortly afterwards, they are going to try and cram that nice new reamer through that hole thats 50thou too small, through that piece of steel at 1000 rpm.....while using tap magic nonetheless. 5seconds into the cut, the smoke arises, then you see the cutter taking on a nice straw color.....then they dump on more tap magic.....more smoke......then you begin to wonder if they realize the reamer is fucked right off and they're now onto trying to burnish a hole through the material.
Not having high school machine shop around anymore is one of the biggest tragedies in this country. If I would have done that in HS machine shop, Mr Beckett would have literally hit me in the back of my head and made me buy a new reamer for the cabinet. Then again, I wouldn't have, because I knew better and I respected the machine shop tool cabinet and everything in it.
Great comments Brian! Always a pleasure to hear from you. You painted a picture about the ill informed shop guy trying to ream a hole. Maybe go by them and mention to watch my Shop Talk's. :)
Interesting observation Brian. If folks had to pay out of pocket for their tools, they would take care of them better. A lot is to be said on how they were taught. A smack in the back of the head or a boot in the arse taught us a lot before the world became PC.
Hello Adam, Gotta love that Audel series of books. Everything under the sun from boilers to hydraulics. I still have several of them. That was our source if you couldn't find someone who knew it before TV, CDs, You Tube, etc. They were an invaluable source. There must have been way over a hundred in their series. Very practical for the guys whose hands were dirty. Another great video. Take care. Doug
Hi Adam, last month ordered MACHINERY'S HANDBOOK 23rd edition from Amazon from USA, price including delivery to UK cost me £33.50, which was very reasonable. Book is great, I like it.
Thanks Adam, I took you advice and went out and practised on some drops I had. The speeds part of this skill seems to be much easier to grasp than the feeds part. I don't have power down feed on my mill and my elbow is hard to calibrate.. lol
+Billy T Billy, way to get out there and practice. When hand feeding, which is normally how I do it, just feel it, you can feel the reamer feeding in by keeping some down pressure on the handle. Just takes some practice.
YAY Shop Talks, LOVE EM !!!
"I've seen some people running drills way too fast"
AvE? lol.
LazerLord10 my thoughts exactly
Yea but that makes for some great comic relief for us machinists!
High sulfur cutting oil smoke is part of the food pyramid, is it not?
He's got great recipes for carbide chowder ! :p
warp factor 11, mr. sulu!
i just found a copy of audels machinists and tool makers handbook. i can't wait until it gets here.
I had to pause for that bird because I was sure it was coming from inside my house haha.
LOL...it sure was loud on that mic!
I picked up that book a while back, it does have a ton of good info.
this dude is wise beyond his years
I was always taught a good starting point is half the speed double the feed.
When I ream stainless with HSS I cant get a good finish unless I spin it super slow. Was reaming lots of 3/8 and 7/32 in 17-4 and going 60RPM. Finish was perfection, and cutting on size. Lots of Rocoll Grease.
Nice shop talk video Adam I enjoyed it a lot .
Adam your videos are getting so good.
This is why words like "geek" and "nerd should never ever be an insult. Nerd out on stuff and you'll screw up less.
I agree
I love the sharing of your knowledge.....
Thanks for your videos You and Keith Fenner are my favorite UA-camrs.
I always run my reamers at 50% or less of the drill speed as well. Same for counterbores, all though they are usually closer to 25%. Drills I judge by chip color. I run heavy pressure on drills, but light on reamers. I guess I could use heavier feed, but they always seem to cut plenty fast, no need to push it. Counterbores I use medium-heavy pressure.
Great video, Adam. At this rate, you will have to change your handle to "Mr Adam222!
Now that is some EPIC GREAT info .. Thanks Adam !! Thumbs up man..
Adam, what amazes me is how old some of your tooling is, yet how accurate it is to this day. You pointed to the Monarch which was made in what, the 1940s? What kind of maintenance is needed to keep it as precise as it is today, and does anything ever break on it? Maybe a short video on maintenance would be cool.
It was built in 1942. It's still a great machine, but it does have it worn areas. Most machinists know how to work around those and they won't prevent you from using the machine and getting good work done.
Excellent video Adam ;)
Thanks for sharing
I have been in a factory maintaining, Improving and developing dies for at-lease 10 years now, but I enjoy to work in a jobbing shop ( under the table) to keep my skills up.
Your Videos are enjoyable to watch and you have a talent for teaching as well as doing, It has helped me with learning new ways of holding work pieces, or reminding me of the proper speeds and feeds, please keep it up.
Myself i never cuddle the machinery's handbook, its all feel, but reminders are nice.
Is it proper to stop the spindle after finishing reaming a hole, Then extracting the reamer, so a reamer does not cut the hole oversize?
I have never heard of or been told to do that trick, so I can't say for sure. I always just retract the tool after it clears the hole all the way.
My tech school instructors specifically told us not to stop the reamer before withdrawing it. Some said it was to avoid vertical scratches / galling from chips, others said anyone who didn't back the reamer out at the feed in rate didn't really want a nice finish anyway.
Even in my CNC programs, I feed in and out with the reamer spinning.
un petit bonjours de france
super video
merci pour toute les video
The rule of thumb that I remember is RPM = 4 *CS (FPM)/DIA (Inches) * Cutting edges. Since a reamer has more cutting edges than a drill it makes sense to run it slower. I would probably say 1/3 drilling rpm if you are drilling at close to the max drill RPM.
The 4 comes from dividing 12 /pi rounded down to 3.
Many ways to get there, I just show what I use.
Abom, do you ever scratch bore a hole before reaming?
Zero dislikes (at this moment)... I like it
Great information!
I think that 3 or 4 times slower speeds and 3 or 4 times higher feed for reamer is much better than 1/2 and x2. Anyway carbide drills and reamers are more heat resistant and allow higher speeds, also they cut straighter holes than HSS tools. Also important is amount of material to remove by reamer. There are also roughing reamers and finishing reamers. Roughing reamers can remove more but after this you need to run finishing reamer. To get a good concentricity it is necessary to counter bore the hole by using boring bar (this have to be done after drilling and before reaming).
very informative video ABOM!!
wait what, extra abom? hell yeah
+tek413 Yessir
Adam great books, I would like to have the same. I seen both on Amazon. I will order at least one of them soon.
Franklin D. Jones,an author of machine shop books that sticks out.
You cannot go wrong buying his books!He coauthored the first edition of Machinery's Handbook in 1914.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franklin_D._Jones
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machinery%27s_Handbook
thanks Adam ilike2learn thank you very much
Hmmmm, I worked at Boeing in the 60's on the wing line for the 727 and we used two step reamers every day. Weird, that book didn't show them at all :--))))
Half the speed, twice the feed.
Thats it!
jkutnink87 tighten till you hear a crack, back off half a turn
LEXUS-RX300 No, no! Tighten until it just starts to feel loose and then back off a quarter turn.
jkutnink87 says: "Half the speed, twice the feed." Yup, that's the recipe for a growing boy! :)
"Half the speed, twice the feed." That's what she said.
Nice
Oops. One more thing for you to add for the next go-round: How much do you leave in the hole to ream. Because It's easy, using my set of 1/16 to 1/2 by 64ths drills I usually just drill one size under and ream the rest. (so 1/64th). Does that sound about right ?
Dave Sage it said to leave a couple thousands under.
+Dave Sage Yes for that set you can drill one size under, or remember about .010-.015 under.
Can you recommend a book that is up to date for a new home machinist to use. Great instructional videos. Thanks
Where did you get the "magic number" of 3.84? Was that in the book, or just gained from experience?
Thumbs up here,thanks
Good information. I was in the shop earlier tonight and saw the arbor that the jumbo 3 3/4" shell reamer was on. Not something that'd do you any good, as it's about 16" long with a 1 1/2" drive spindle.
+Jack Hoying In sure it's for some big boy machines.
How much of a difference would it make interms of time and tool wear would it make if you could superhumanly know all your speeds and feeds for every operation? I know whatever response I might get would be just as good of a guess as the next guy, but I mean it's interesting to think about how many more holes could be drilled if you were going 10% faster, or running X amount more coolant. Not just the number of holes in a day, but also the number of holes you could get out of that drill bit before needing to regrind it. Just something I was taking the time to ponder. Ow and on an interesting fun fact we don't really have a way of measuring sharpness... Seems sort of crazy when it's something so crucial to pretty much everyone's daily life.
Video looks nice.
Hi abom79 I got question I have a stuck reamer in spindle carrier what is the best and safe way to remove
Have you ever tried Stefan's technique of using coolant on reaming for close fits? In a couple of his vids he claims that it is the best way to prevent going oversize with reamers instead of cutting oil, which tends to give you a loose fit...thanks for the video as always, it's appreciated.
P.S. I am in the middle of a series on Taper Pin Hole Drilling and Reaming, so this is great timing.
I have not tested his theory no. I've heard some other viewers mention it too.
Is that a future Shop Talk subject knocking? I'd like to see a careful side by side comparison, just to know whether it's a consistent difference or just a personal preference. Hole size / quality with oil, coolant, dry; for both drilling and reaming actually.
I wonder if you and the other UA-cam Machining veterans even agree on it.
What is the relation to norway iron in the machinery handbook.
Thanks Abom. Now, how do I get my co-worker to accept he's been reaming way too fast?! all of our reamers are completely worn out or the tips are literally burnt to a nice purple blue. 😬
That bird in the background audio. lol.
Does this change at all if I am using a metric system?
Sweet
Im from Norway but i've never heard of Norwegian Iron. Anyone care to explain?
Kiruna mine used to be a hill, now it's a pit but from the start (1898) it produced the finest steels and is the largest iron ore mine in the world today. Pronouncing Luossavaara-Kiirunavaara Aktiebolag as the company name however lead to the use of Norway Iron instead, hope that is ok. If Germany had won the war it would have been because of the iron from this mine although they sourced half their source from inside Germany. 60% iron in this ore and high quality at that makes for an exceptional resource.
Is there such a thing as an external reamer? Do they ever get used?
why is it contraindicated to use high speed with a reamer?
speaking of handbooks, i've noticed over the years how the Machineries handbook has gradually been sliding into a poorly designed book. Not the information inside it, but the pages themselves. So very thin and near transparent and difficult to read at times. The text, formulas, tables and pictorial graphics "bleeding" through from the other side of the page.
MLTomson I have my great grandfathers, I think 1918 edition, pages are like tissue paper.
I don't like the cover art on the newer editions.
They figured out pretty early that if they didn't use thin paper, it would be a foot thick.
Whether it's math, climbing, or machining, I've found that the best books have that plain, single color binding. Quiet on the outside, quality on the inside.
You can get a CD now so you can use it on your shop PC. Agree the latest MHB are very fragile and do not contain as much of the "old" info they used to. regards
Please, my friend what name he had used the book please respond
As a Hobbyist with a few machines, is there such a thing as Too slow when reaming?
+CarterCreekFarm Slow isn't going to hurt you, as long as you keep the reamer straight and the hole the proper size.
The birds are getting ticked off that you have not built their Abom size automatic seed feeder!!! Better get on it before they eat all your paperback books!!!
I've thought about getting them one. Theres a couple small birds that like to hang around the shop.
Couple of those house wrens built a nest on top of my battery charger which was sitting on a shelf and a coupe of times I needed to use it but just borrowed the neighbors.
Hey Adam, where does the number 3.82 come from? Why that number?
EDIT: Thank you everyone. Yup, it makes sense when you know where the number comes from. (I'm not a machinist, just an interested lay-person and wasn't familiar with the value)
w.A.f. This will answer your question: www.cnc-training.com/tandp/may07.htm
As +Barry Gerbracht said, " it is 12/pi to convert diameter to circumference and inches to feet."
Barry Gerbracht Mentioned in the comments somewhere.
It's just 12 divided by Pi to convert inches into feet.
Easy way to cancel out two constants so you're not scratching your noggin all day
U sick buddy, some rum would fix that lol.
What type of hook rule do you use?
Do you have to ask? This guy's middle name is Starrett, LOL! :)
Yes sir, it's a Starrett adjustable hook rule.
👍
5:11, did you get a pet bird?
Actually I have two of them. They always like to come in the shop and nosy around when I'm working and have the big door open. It's funny watching them hop around and look at everything.
You need to make you a book cradle for your beautiful vintage machining books. If you don't know what I mean here's a good article on what I mean. It's just something that is done for books that are anywhere from a couple hundred years old to a couple thousand. libraries.mit.edu/news/tag/book-rest/
How come you don't work full time from your own shop?
Much of that answer would be a bit personal to explain here. I'd love to have my own full time shop but right now I am comfortable with how things are.
Abom79 just curious cause your shop looks in good shape
I've got a reamer
I don't see a speed for titanium in that book
Don't think titanium was used back when those books where published, If it was, would have been very rare occasion.
Slow = ... 1 RPM! :)
whoa man you look like you shed some pounds
Ream your steel slow, ream your lady friend fast.