So good ,you have made me so much better in my little farm shop. I am now being nice to my drill press and use it in so many more ways .Your teachings are so hands on ,thank you many times !
Thank you for generously sharing your knowledge and experience. Life has taught me that there are two kinds of people: those that take and those that give. It's obvious which you are. Thank you for giving so generously of your time and expertise! One video at a time, you are making the world a better place. Thanks!
Just to follow up. I went home and did exactly as you recommended, center drilled, no.7 pilot hole, drilled to .4960" with a D bit, then reamed at 950 rpm with .2500" chucking reamer using fluid and backing the tool out a few times to clear chips with compressed air. Checked my hole with the pin gauges and nailed it, stayed within .0005" of the desired .2500". Thanks again MrPete! Material was 6061-T6 Al.
Outstanding video. To have someone with your knowledge offering this series of tutorials is remarkable.. I had a few questions about the correct use of reamers on my centre lathe. You answered them all and taught me so much more than I could find in a dozen books. Thank you so much All best D. Stuart York
This is an unbelievably good set of videos. Thank you Mr Pete for providing such a range of subjects, each treated with just the right amount of detail to properly learn the technique under consideration. I studied 'metalwork' as it was called at school (now 40+ years ago) and to this day use all the techniques learned there in my hobby workshop. Your videos have extended my skills way beyond that level. Just great! From another 'Mr Pete' in UK
Thanks allot for the info. I have just started to use reamers and have been using ok but these videos 1&2 explained the reason I had some problems in the past.
@mrpete222 Mr. Pete sometimes when I need a part to "float" so that it automatically finds it's own center I will attach it solidly to my drill table but leave the table loose so the table can move a little. Of course I will get the part as close to center as possible before drilling. This method has worked well for me in the past and it is also a safe method. And thank you so much for all your great videos. I have really learned a lot from you.
When reaming blind holes--back out reamer several times & blow chips out of hole--they sometimes pack in the hole. Also, reamers have a chamfer or taper on the end, so allow for that. I like to drill & ream extra deep to allow for all that.
floating reamer holders are used for chambering new gun barrels. The reamer itself is typically piloted to the caliber of the bore. When the reamer enters the barrel it follows the pilot which follows the axis of the bore, that way you get a chamber precisely aligned with the bore. Pacific Tool & Guage has both piloted reamers and floating reamer holders, as do most of the gun parts suppliers
Awesome videos, can't wait to watch more. It makes perfect sense to do what you are doing with the drill press. However, it probably deserves more explanation such as, why it's ok to do what you are doing and when maybe you should be using a vise. I only bring it up because I just about lost the tip of my finger doing something very similar on a drill press. ;) Your reaction time is much slower when you're tensed up holding a piece of work like that. Anyhow, thanks again for the videos!
If you are reaming while this shaft is in the wood lathe, just support it with the tailstock center & use plenty of oil. beginning with the roughing & then smoothing with the finishing. A lot of funny things happen ina school shop.
Thank You for this series on reamers it was very good. I must admit I got a bit scared when you were on the drill press and having the part free floating. You have the touch though!
@mrpete222 I remember this from the toolroom quite clearly, that feeling of having just reamed out a hole looking down the bore and realising the drill has cut slightly larger than the reamer, I used to get around it by using two pilot drills i.e for a 12mm hole I would drill 6mm, then 10mm, then finally 11.5mm followed by the 12mm reamer it takes a couple more minutes but the final drill removing just 1.5mm gives a accurate hole pre reaming. By the way nice videos keep them coming. All the best
Thanks so much for the video. I learned a lot about reamers. Will the hand reamers do stainless pipe? I need a 7/8” bearing to go into 3/4” schedule 40 stainless pipe. Very little to bore.
When machine reaming I always stop rotation and just pull straight out so there's no more cutting while you're backing out. On CNC mills I've run a reaming operation is usually set up this way too. Half the speed twice the feed
Just arrived in the mail today. I've try drilling to as close as I can, but from that reply, I'm guessing that I need a wider array of tools. Closest I can get is to drill to .2500 with my drill set
My engineering teacher would have your life for holding the piece in your hand while drilling, I had a drill bit get caught in brass before and hit my hand
First off, Mr. Pete, thank you for all your machining videos, learned alot that I can use in my shop. Question, when you were drilling the casting on the drill press and holding it with your hand (VERY DANGEROUS), you said you did it because you wanted the part to float and no to get a bell hole, couldnt you center punch, then use center drill to pinch the part to your bed then clamp it down, then do your drilling and reaming?
@mrpete222 Sorry for the question. I realize now that you answered the question in the video. The first time I watched it it locked up and I didnt see the whole thing.
I've had a heck of a time avoiding chatter when hand reaming with a straight fluted reamer and tap wrench - every time I try I end up with light consistent chatter, despite the reamer being new, sharp, well lubricated, frequently cleaned and never turned in reverse. I've tried with two separate reamers in a variety of mild steels and always get the same result, so I feel like it's something I'm doing.
mrpete222 In this case it's reaming chambers for a revolver - reamers are commercial 45acp chamber reamers - I've tried only doing a turn or two per cleaning and using almost no pressure all the way to putting heavy pressure to break through the chatter but result always seems the same. I suspect a spiral flute would help, however I have yet to encounter them as chamber reamers. I've read some discussions on putting more pressure on a reamer when being run in a lathe to break through the chatter, but I don't have access to a lathe at the moment so am somewhat stuck. Thanks for the quick reply as well!
Mr. Pete,I love all of these great videos you've posted. I've watched all of your videos I could find on reamers (Hand, Chucking, Expandable, straight/spiral, etc.), but in looking through a catalog last night, I see "Drill / Reamer" combination bits. What exactly are these and are they any good? I'm assuming they are just hardened drill bits essentially, but with a narrower cutting head and the Flutes on the shaft expand the hole to the correct diameter... If so, what spindle speed would be appropriate?I am assuming quite a bit regarding these hybrids; I wouldn't be surprised if all my assumptions were wrong though. Thank you Sir for sharing your knowledge with all of us.M.
Hey tubalcain, another great video. This might be basic to you, but for novices like me just starting out, the basics are needed. One question I have is how did you feel confident that the piece would not spin on you when you were drilling on the drill press. I am always concerned about that and will continue to play it safe, but was just wondering was it becaus it was aluminum that you didnt hold it with a clamp or other?
awesome videos,thank you for teaching. I do have a question, would it be best practice to size holes for tapping with a reamer? obviously drilling an undersized hole then enlarging it to specs based on tap size.
I'm reaming a brass tube with an ID of .2490 with a 6.5mm (.2559) reamer, but it has repeatedly caused my lathe to seize. any suggestions? I use cutting fluid, I peck, I clear chips, I do everything I can think of, but it is causing me so many problems... My supplier sent me tubing with an incorrect ID and I need to find a quick way to resize it with a smooth ID. 150 Parts needing processing, 4 days to do it
Thank you very much for your reply and advice. I am going to try that out tonight on some test pieces, center drill, pilot to 1/8, drill to .2460 (D bit), ream to .2500" and see what the pin gauges tell me. I might also try using a 15/62 end mill and finishing with the .2500" reamer. Can you ream in the mill as long as you keep your setup or is the drill press always preferred to allow reamer to self center? The work is with Al 6061 and my lowest RPM setting is 270, maybe that's too high?
Notice the drills are pulling chips, where I usually get spirals on aluminum. Is this due to drilling a casting, or is it the shape of the edge on the bits?
Purchased some huge ( long) reemers at a show and tried to use them in the 10" lathe. 1 inch for reaming a model engine cylinder. The flutes would catch in the work every time. Didn't know you weren't supposed to use power! Any special technique other than what you showed for larger sized reamers? One inch up to 1-1/8 ?
I agree, excellent videos and channel... im actually teaching myself some minor lathe work for some projects i have, which leads me to the following question.... if i wanted to drill some half inch stock half the way through would a reamer give me a flat bottom hole and get rid of the cone shape bottom that a drill bit would leave behind, if not, how would i go about getting a flat bottom in the hole, thanks,...btw keep up with the videos, i want to be at pro level too some day ... haha
Hi MrPete, thanks a million for sharing these informative videos, I have learned a great deal from your channel. I have a question about reaming blind holes. I want to bore a hole to a .900" depth and clean it up to within .0005" of .2500". Ive been trying to do my research on reaming blind holes and the information on the procedure varies quite a bit from person to person, enough to make me question the straightforwardness of the procedure, do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Hi mrpete222, I'm modifying an OLD wood lathe to accept Morse taper tools. This involves using a set of reamers (coarse and finishing) tapered to create a MT#1 tapered hole in the arbor. It was originally .500 bar that I replaced with .500 x .120 wall tubing. Do you have any suggestions on how to proceed? I'm a retired Vocational Agriculture instructor and really appreciate your videos, particularly the humor about students. Thank you for the well done videos, a feel like I'm back in school.
You shouldn't withdraw a reamer under power. Turn off the power, then withdraw the reamer. Reaming should also be done at roughly a third of the speed for an equivalent sized drill bit.
My students have noticed that you don't clamp the work to the table. Our instruction is to always lag your part to the machine to avoid injury.. What are your thoughts?
Primitive Pete, Crescent wrench used backwards 😆 Seriously these are great videos but I am always surprised at the misuse of tools and the disregard for safety coming from a teacher.
You mention that the 'hand' reamers must not be used under power. Why? Visually the difference just seems to be the square end on a hand reamer, but is there some other fundamental difference that dictates how they can be used?
They are usually a little shorter & more ridgid. Hand reamers are tapered for he first 1'2 inch or so and that is where they do their cutting. Power reamers do most of the cutting on the chamfer.
Mr. Pete, I know you are terribly busy and have loads on your plate, but am hoping you can point me in the right direction. I was recently given a Burke #4 horizontal milling machine. The spindle of this machine is a B&S #9 taper. I would like to make a arbor for it with a MT2 socket. The reason I would like to make this arbor is because I have a set of MT2 collets I would like to use on the machine to hold end mills. I have watched your reamers videos and taper turning videos. I have also ordered a pair of MT2 reamers (Roughing and Finishing). To make the MT2 socket, will I need to rough bore the hole close to MT2 then Rough Ream and then Finish ream? Or can I drill a hole close to the small end size of the MT2 and rough the taper out with the roughing reamer, then finish it with the finishing reamer? Any advise would be appreciated if you have time. Regards, Joe
Now that your question, is in the form of a comment, I am able to dictate the answer rather than type it. And makes it much easier for me. Although sometimes when I dictate, there will be errors in the wording. They do not have the voice recognition fully developed yet.
Thank you Mr. Pete for the help with my question. I appreciate it. So as a follow up, I guess the purpose of the roughing reamer is to get the correct taper if your bored taper is a little off? Joe
Drilling like that on a drill press is a bit dangerous. I've had the drill bit get caught in the material, causing the material to spin rapidly or fly off. I know you are experienced with this, but perhaps some new people who are looking for guidance might get hurt trying it.
Holding the work with your hand is very dangerous and you should know better. Ask me how I know? Plenty of stiches and near broken bones to prove it. I would expect better from you.
@@mrpete222 Not a good example to "teach" beginners though. Very bad practice. I've seen many people injured this way particularly with steel and hungry metals like brass and bronze that will grab the drill bit. Also when the drill breaks through thin sheet material.
So good ,you have made me so much better in my little farm shop. I am now being nice to my drill press and use it in so many more ways .Your teachings are so hands on ,thank you many times !
Thank you for generously sharing your knowledge and experience. Life has taught me that there are two kinds of people: those that take and those that give. It's obvious which you are. Thank you for giving so generously of your time and expertise! One video at a time, you are making the world a better place. Thanks!
Just to follow up. I went home and did exactly as you recommended, center drilled, no.7 pilot hole, drilled to .4960" with a D bit, then reamed at 950 rpm with .2500" chucking reamer using fluid and backing the tool out a few times to clear chips with compressed air. Checked my hole with the pin gauges and nailed it, stayed within .0005" of the desired .2500". Thanks again MrPete! Material was 6061-T6 Al.
The best channel on UA-cam!
Well made videos that answer all of our machining and foundry questions.
Please keep them coming!
Outstanding video. To have someone with your knowledge offering this series of tutorials is remarkable.. I had a few questions about the correct use of reamers on my centre lathe. You answered them all and taught me so much more than I could find in a dozen books.
Thank you so much
All best
D. Stuart York
+Stuart York THANK you very much
This is an unbelievably good set of videos.
Thank you Mr Pete for providing such a range of subjects, each treated with just the right amount of detail to properly learn the technique under consideration.
I studied 'metalwork' as it was called at school (now 40+ years ago) and to this day use all the techniques learned there in my hobby workshop. Your videos have extended my skills way beyond that level. Just great! From another 'Mr Pete' in UK
Peter Worrall thanks--glad I helped
I've always wondered about the correct way to use a hand reamer, now I know.
Thank you for making the videos, they've been very helpful.
Just watched all 3 videos on reamers. Thank you.
Thank you so very much for your showing your years of skill sets! I bought a bunch of reamers and was unsure if I was using them right! Thanks again!
Lot's of good tips and advice. I will never finish a product with a drill again.
Thanks
Interesting note, I was cleaning up in the shop the other day and found your book on metal heat treating that was purchased before UA-cam was around.
That is not my book. That was written by the long a dead tubalcain From England. I think his name was Tom Walsh
Thanks allot for the info. I have just started to use reamers and have been using ok but these videos 1&2 explained the reason I had some problems in the past.
Great series! Very useful personally as I am just embarking on a bunch of old motor and machine rebuild. Thanks
Thanks for the complement---glad I was of help. Good luck on your new career.
Thank you for your videos. I was cringing while I watched you hold that part by hand while drilling on the drill press.
@mrpete222 Mr. Pete sometimes when I need a part to "float" so that it automatically finds it's own center I will attach it solidly to my drill table but leave the table loose so the table can move a little. Of course I will get the part as close to center as possible before drilling. This method has worked well for me in the past and it is also a safe method. And thank you so much for all your great videos. I have really learned a lot from you.
+floyd green good idea
When reaming blind holes--back out reamer several times & blow chips out of hole--they sometimes pack in the hole. Also, reamers have a chamfer or taper on the end, so allow for that. I like to drill & ream extra deep to allow for all that.
mrpete222 thank you sir excellent teaching! God bless
floating reamer holders are used for chambering new gun barrels. The reamer itself is typically piloted to the caliber of the bore. When the reamer enters the barrel it follows the pilot which follows the axis of the bore, that way you get a chamber precisely aligned with the bore. Pacific Tool & Guage has both piloted reamers and floating reamer holders, as do most of the gun parts suppliers
Enjoyed the little series especially #3. Keep up the good work.
Thank you. I'm learning all the time.
Awesome videos, can't wait to watch more. It makes perfect sense to do what you are doing with the drill press. However, it probably deserves more explanation such as, why it's ok to do what you are doing and when maybe you should be using a vise. I only bring it up because I just about lost the tip of my finger doing something very similar on a drill press. ;) Your reaction time is much slower when you're tensed up holding a piece of work like that. Anyhow, thanks again for the videos!
Thanks for putting this together. I need to hand ream some bushings on a ROSS steering box and this video helped a lot.
2011Topper thanks
Wow. Excellent set of videos on Reamers.
Thank you.
10:17 Yaba-Daba- DOOOOOOOO........ Mr Pete I always end up back on your channel when I have obscure questions about the trade. You da man
🤙
Damn it, now I have to go and spend more money, thanks a lot Mr Pete
Such a beauty. Mr Pete very informative videos. Thank you 👍
Thanks
Had me wincing holding it by hand and going up to the big drill bit.
great ending for this series. thank you ever so much for publishing.
Great video.Thank you very much for sharing your very valuable experiences with us.
+huseyin4553427 Thanks for watching
Thanks for sharing - this is great. You answer every question I had!
Thank you for an enlightning series on reaming.
If you are reaming while this shaft is in the wood lathe, just support it with the tailstock center & use plenty of oil. beginning with the roughing & then smoothing with the finishing. A lot of funny things happen ina school shop.
Excellent videos!! Thank you so much!
Thank You for this series on reamers it was very good. I must admit I got a bit scared when you were on the drill press and having the part free floating. You have the touch though!
@gbowne1 A #3 is my fav. for med size holes. Pilot drill is 1 or 2 fractions under reamer size.
@mrpete222 I remember this from the toolroom quite clearly, that feeling of having just reamed out a hole looking down the bore and realising the drill has cut slightly larger than the reamer, I used to get around it by using two pilot drills i.e for a 12mm hole I would drill 6mm, then 10mm, then finally 11.5mm followed by the 12mm reamer it takes a couple more minutes but the final drill removing just 1.5mm gives a accurate hole pre reaming. By the way nice videos keep them coming. All the best
This is a great series!!
Sadly, it is also tax season, so we need to be prepared to get reamed. :(
+ShysterLawyer I loathe the IRS!!!!!
Thanks so much for the video. I learned a lot about reamers. Will the hand reamers do stainless pipe? I need a 7/8” bearing to go into 3/4” schedule 40 stainless pipe. Very little to bore.
Great information,Thankls for sharing!!
Wow! love this, your videos are teaching me a lot ,well done. thank you. 👍🏻👍🏻.
Fantastic video. Thank you for sharing.
When machine reaming I always stop rotation and just pull straight out so there's no more cutting while you're backing out.
On CNC mills I've run a reaming operation is usually set up this way too.
Half the speed twice the feed
A reamer cuts on its sides, not its end. Use a bottoming drill or and end mill to square up the bottom of a hole.
Thank you so much for explaining reamers to us.
Thanks for making the video! What RPM do you power ream at?
How do you grind a reamer, not sharpening but let's say you have a reamer in the correct size, but you need a certain profile (steps)
@tquinn51 --Thanks for your support--and get that degree.
Thank you for your video very helpful
Thank You, very helpful 😇🙏
Just arrived in the mail today. I've try drilling to as close as I can, but from that reply, I'm guessing that I need a wider array of tools.
Closest I can get is to drill to .2500 with my drill set
@gohuskies583 Yes--because it was alum, would not try it with steel.
My engineering teacher would have your life for holding the piece in your hand while drilling, I had a drill bit get caught in brass before and hit my hand
Agree. Hand holding is very bad practice particularly for a drill this size.
Thank you again...you answered l my question about dreamers...Regards.
another excellent series!
Mrpete222, thank you for this informative video, Sir. I appreciate it
Love this guy
First off, Mr. Pete, thank you for all your machining videos, learned alot that I can use in my shop. Question, when you were drilling the casting on the drill press and holding it with your hand (VERY DANGEROUS), you said you did it because you wanted the part to float and no to get a bell hole, couldnt you center punch, then use center drill to pinch the part to your bed then clamp it down, then do your drilling and reaming?
Excellent videos. Learned a lot. Thank you!
@mrpete222 Sorry for the question. I realize now that you answered the question in the video. The first time I watched it it locked up and I didnt see the whole thing.
Many Thanks
Gill
Thanks alot mr. Cain
Try drilling to within .oo2" & then reaming.
Also--the reamer must be brand new--never touch a piece of steel.
Great stuff Mr pete
I've had a heck of a time avoiding chatter when hand reaming with a straight fluted reamer and tap wrench - every time I try I end up with light consistent chatter, despite the reamer being new, sharp, well lubricated, frequently cleaned and never turned in reverse. I've tried with two separate reamers in a variety of mild steels and always get the same result, so I feel like it's something I'm doing.
Make sure you are removing only a few thou when reaming. Try different feed rates. Use spiral fluted reamers
mrpete222 In this case it's reaming chambers for a revolver - reamers are commercial 45acp chamber reamers - I've tried only doing a turn or two per cleaning and using almost no pressure all the way to putting heavy pressure to break through the chatter but result always seems the same. I suspect a spiral flute would help, however I have yet to encounter them as chamber reamers.
I've read some discussions on putting more pressure on a reamer when being run in a lathe to break through the chatter, but I don't have access to a lathe at the moment so am somewhat stuck.
Thanks for the quick reply as well!
great video...cheers..
+RICHY MARK NORMAN Thanks for watching
Thanks again Tubl
Mr. Pete,I love all of these great videos you've posted. I've watched all of your videos I could find on reamers (Hand, Chucking, Expandable, straight/spiral, etc.), but in looking through a catalog last night, I see "Drill / Reamer" combination bits. What exactly are these and are they any good? I'm assuming they are just hardened drill bits essentially, but with a narrower cutting head and the Flutes on the shaft expand the hole to the correct diameter... If so, what spindle speed would be appropriate?I am assuming quite a bit regarding these hybrids; I wouldn't be surprised if all my assumptions were wrong though. Thank you Sir for sharing your knowledge with all of us.M.
Very helpful- Thanks!
Hey tubalcain, another great video. This might be basic to you, but for novices like me just starting out, the basics are needed. One question I have is how did you feel confident that the piece would not spin on you when you were drilling on the drill press. I am always concerned about that and will continue to play it safe, but was just wondering was it becaus it was aluminum that you didnt hold it with a clamp or other?
awesome videos,thank you for teaching. I do have a question, would it be best practice to size holes for tapping with a reamer? obviously drilling an undersized hole then enlarging it to specs based on tap size.
+Nate Cranmer THANKS for watching! No need to ream before tapping. A wasted effort
Do you always use a #3 center drill?
How do you select the size of your pilot drill?
I'm reaming a brass tube with an ID of .2490 with a 6.5mm (.2559) reamer, but it has repeatedly caused my lathe to seize. any suggestions?
I use cutting fluid, I peck, I clear chips, I do everything I can think of, but it is causing me so many problems...
My supplier sent me tubing with an incorrect ID and I need to find a quick way to resize it with a smooth ID. 150 Parts needing processing, 4 days to do it
Thank you!
Thank you very much for your reply and advice. I am going to try that out tonight on some test pieces, center drill, pilot to 1/8, drill to .2460 (D bit), ream to .2500" and see what the pin gauges tell me. I might also try using a 15/62 end mill and finishing with the .2500" reamer. Can you ream in the mill as long as you keep your setup or is the drill press always preferred to allow reamer to self center? The work is with Al 6061 and my lowest RPM setting is 270, maybe that's too high?
Notice the drills are pulling chips, where I usually get spirals on aluminum. Is this due to drilling a casting, or is it the shape of the edge on the bits?
+Robert Schulke I would say-different metals , produce different shaped chips
Purchased some huge ( long) reemers at a show and tried to use them in the 10" lathe.
1 inch for reaming a model engine cylinder. The flutes would catch in the work every time. Didn't know you weren't supposed to use power! Any special technique other than what you showed for larger sized reamers? One inch up to 1-1/8 ?
I would say just this. Avoid using those huge reamers on small work pieces. Use a boring bar. It takes a lot of power to turn a big reamer
I agree, excellent videos and channel... im actually teaching myself some minor lathe work for some projects i have, which leads me to the following question.... if i wanted to drill some half inch stock half the way through would a reamer give me a flat bottom hole and get rid of the cone shape bottom that a drill bit would leave behind, if not, how would i go about getting a flat bottom in the hole, thanks,...btw keep up with the videos, i want to be at pro level too some day ... haha
Hi MrPete, thanks a million for sharing these informative videos, I have learned a great deal from your channel. I have a question about reaming blind holes. I want to bore a hole to a .900" depth and clean it up to within .0005" of .2500". Ive been trying to do my research on reaming blind holes and the information on the procedure varies quite a bit from person to person, enough to make me question the straightforwardness of the procedure, do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Hi mrpete222, I'm modifying an OLD wood lathe to accept Morse taper tools. This involves using a set of reamers (coarse and finishing) tapered to create a MT#1 tapered hole in the arbor. It was originally .500 bar that I replaced with .500 x .120 wall tubing. Do you have any suggestions on how to proceed? I'm a retired Vocational Agriculture instructor and really appreciate your videos, particularly the humor about students. Thank you for the well done videos, a feel like I'm back in school.
Excellent!!!
Thank you for teaching us
Why is it that hand reamers should not be powered..? tnx.
is there any difference between the types of reamers, like tapered reamer and straight reamer, shell reamers and rose reamers?
Excellent video... thanks..
You shouldn't withdraw a reamer under power. Turn off the power, then withdraw the reamer. Reaming should also be done at roughly a third of the speed for an equivalent sized drill bit.
YES--good idea
Do you think you could use hand reamers on a drill press using a VFD at extremely low rpm? Like your videos.
I suppose you could in a pinch
Some are cast iron--I suppose need no oil.
thank you for the educational vids. i am in need to ream a pulley with key way. i need to use a spiral fluted reamer, correct? thanks
YES-spiral
My students have noticed that you don't clamp the work to the table. Our instruction is to always lag your part to the machine to avoid injury.. What are your thoughts?
Agree. Very bad practice.
Primitive Pete, Crescent wrench used backwards 😆 Seriously these are great videos but I am always surprised at the misuse of tools and the disregard for safety coming from a teacher.
@mrpete222 OK Thanks. I figured there was a good reason.
Also thanks for the great video!
Thank you very much!
You mention that the 'hand' reamers must not be used under power. Why?
Visually the difference just seems to be the square end on a hand reamer, but is there some other fundamental difference that dictates how they can be used?
They are usually a little shorter & more ridgid. Hand reamers are tapered for he first 1'2 inch or so and that is where they do their cutting.
Power reamers do most of the cutting on the chamfer.
mrpete222 But with care, they could be used powered?
Ken Gillett
I suppose-- very slow speed
mrpete222 Thanks for this and all the other help you provide. Much appreciated.
Thanks great info.
Mr. Pete,
I know you are terribly busy and have loads on your plate, but am hoping you can point me in the right direction. I was recently given a Burke #4 horizontal milling machine. The spindle of this machine is a B&S #9 taper. I would like to make a arbor for it with a MT2 socket. The reason I would like to make this arbor is because I have a set of MT2 collets I would like to use on the machine to hold end mills. I have watched your reamers videos and taper turning videos. I have also ordered a pair of MT2 reamers (Roughing and Finishing). To make the MT2 socket, will I need to rough bore the hole close to MT2 then Rough Ream and then Finish ream? Or can I drill a hole close to the small end size of the MT2 and rough the taper out with the roughing reamer, then finish it with the finishing reamer?
Any advise would be appreciated if you have time.
Regards,
Joe
Now that your question, is in the form of a comment, I am able to dictate the answer rather than type it. And makes it much easier for me. Although sometimes when I dictate, there will be errors in the wording. They do not have the voice recognition fully developed yet.
To answer the question, I would say you need to bore it before reaming. Otherwise I would be too much material to remove even with a roughing reamer.
You know ... For a horse and buggy whip maker, you sure are leveraging the technology here lately!!! Keep up the great work!
Jeo
Thank you Mr. Pete for the help with my question. I appreciate it. So as a follow up, I guess the purpose of the roughing reamer is to get the correct taper if your bored taper is a little off?
Joe
Yes
Drilling like that on a drill press is a bit dangerous. I've had the drill bit get caught in the material, causing the material to spin rapidly or fly off.
I know you are experienced with this, but perhaps some new people who are looking for guidance might get hurt trying it.
T=up
Holding the work with your hand is very dangerous and you should know better. Ask me how I know? Plenty of stiches and near broken bones to prove it. I would expect better from you.
Been doing it for 50 years without injury.
@@mrpete222 Not a good example to "teach" beginners though. Very bad practice. I've seen many people injured this way particularly with steel and hungry metals like brass and bronze that will grab the drill bit. Also when the drill breaks through thin sheet material.