Man you guys make the most detailed videos and suggestions that benefit us as owners in restoring my 68 cougar xr7 and I’m like a sponge with these videos I bought parts in the past money has been tight but I will be buying more in the future thank you guys
Great video, nice summary of how to improve a lot of the deficient areas in the originals. It's not necessary to fit a high dollar aftermarket suspension to make these cars drive and handle well.
Excellent video! Highly informative and very nice to see a how-to video that doesn’t insult my ears with a bunch of unnecessary heavy metal background noise that some sadly misinformed individual thought they needed to be cool. I’m restoring a 67 Mustang and I learn a lot from your videos...including some great additions to my shopping list!
17:12 when putting the front coil spring in if using this type of spring compressor. put the top shock tower mount bolts back in and locate top shock bracket onto them. that will stop compressor from slipping and allow everything to seat in correct position. great video and very informative
Un maestro Andrew 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Excelente trabajo 👍🏻 En Argentina algunas piezas del Mustang/Cougar coinciden con el Falcón (argentino) así que tus trabajos me dan buenas ideas. Saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷
Great job making this video, and I agree with all your suggestions. I bought my 1969-70 Mustang Boss 302 Chassis Modification Manual from Bill Maier at Maier Racing in 1980, and still have it.
thanks to this video I found hope to my aging mustang suspension. I believe all the upgrades mentioned in this video will improve the performance of the suspension and stiffness of the chassis so much that it will give a run for its money to any other aftermarket set up. and hopefully I will prove it in the autocross.
Nice to see some guidance videos on '67-'68 Cats. I've been out of the wrench turning scene (restoring) for about 22 years now. Looking forward to tearing into my '67 XR7 Dan Gurney. Thanks for the info. Keep 'em coming.
I used Competition Engineering subframe connectors for my 1965 Mustang Fastback in 1982. Maier Racing and Total Control Suspension also has even better subframe connectors now, they really help stiffen up the chassis.
While I had mine tore down that far took the vent cowl off and sealed the vent leaks FOREVER, fenders have to be off, bit of new sheet metal I'm thinking, was early 90s, some Bondo and much undercoating, terrible design. Luckily car was only outside off and on for 15yrs or so so floor pans were in fine shape somehow. Wish there was a UA-cam back then, did have a mustang restoration book and Dad's phone book size factory service manual. Was able to buy a 110v Miller gas mig for $600 and learned to weld, had to section in part of right rear quarter that had gallon of Bondo and brazing done to it. Could find a nice entire interior, and did in the boneyard for $50, those were good times to restore 60s hot rods. Too bad I didn't keep my 69 Ranchero I paid $100 for, still have the chrome rally wheels with GT ctr caps that were on it, don't know what there worth lately, anyway happy wrenching & restoring.
i want to thank you guys for the shock tower reinforcement plate idea found in the boss 302 manual. i also boxed my lower control arms as well, maybe you should of mentioned the shelby upper control arm drop trick as well?, or the roller spring perches from open track racing, open track racing has a lot of those parts mentioned in the boss 302 modification manual, i cant stress enough how much great info is in that low cost manual,
One thing you might try is to put your jack under the front crossmember and jack it up a little at a time until the brace fits. But be careful, it's hollow and might bend / dent if you put too much weight on it. You could also try under the core support, since that's more solid.
@@l.munnier9658 Be careful if you try to lift under the oil pan. We see a lot of dented oil pans because of this. Make sure the block of wood is wider than the oil pan and that you are very careful about the placement of it as you lift. One slip can really dent the oil pan.
love to own a mercury cougar,owning a mustang has a been a thing in our country so far like a sign of status.if i could have a chance to own one ill be a different type of animal on their neck of the woods.
these are some really good videos that you guys make, lemme tell you. so much insight to mercury cougars, and i dont even own one! hahaha i have a falcon
Do you guy’s happen to have a video using a safe method to using a compressor tool fo remove front coil springs? It looked like there was a video snippet on this video, showing you guy’s doing that. Thx
We do not have a videos about the different types of compressors and how to use them safely currently. Here is a video that talks about what Ford used, and some do's and don'ts: ua-cam.com/video/p67IU0GvAII/v-deo.html
After replacing the uppers arms what would make the front end sit few inches to high? Restored it yrs back, been in storage. Didn't have some of those parts back then, I'm running over 400hp, set for strip right now. Made Frame connectors, made a huge difference.
I asked around our shop, and everyone basically just scratched their head and said, "not sure". Might want to post this on www.ClassicCougarCommunity.com with some pictures and see if any of the other Cougar owners have experienced anything like that.
@@WestCoastClassicCougar did do it while swapping on some 73 Granada discs on a lift, loosened and tightened them while on the ground but didn't do anything. Maybe the spindle is bit lower, pretty sure I checked all that well tho. Getting close to retirement, gonna go through it add few finishing touches and strengthen the front end. Thanks for asking around, I'll check that link too.
If people do drop the front with new coils that are shorter. Make a note that warns them to always have the head lights re-aimed for the correct distance at night for both low-beams and high-beams . I would also watch for any deviation in the fuel tank Sending Unit that give a false reading in the last 1/4 tank of gas because the Tank angle has also been lowered . Everything is calibrated at the factory for the Cougar that came off the assembly line with new coils, rear leaf springs and a 160 lb weight in the drivers seat to simulate daily use for the bumper heights and the weight FOB with a full tank of gas and the Spare Tire .
I have a 1970 cougar that I'm restoring and wanted to ask about the front sway bar. What is a good size for replacing the factory one I have purchased a few products from you like the rear seat plate that goes across and the shock tower plates along with the export brace just trying to see what is a good size for that sway bar?
What metal prep did you do before welding the show tower reinforcement plate ? do you spray weld through primer on the backside of it and on the section of the shock tower that will be boxed in ?
We only carry factory style suspension components. So, we cannot really speak to what is the best options for getting rid of the shock towers. You could try asking on classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/ and see what feedback other owners have.
Hey, love the video. I noticed you didn’t say anything about the Shelby Drop. I’m currently restoring a 66 Mustang and I was wondering what you think about doing the Shelby Drop. It does sound easier (and probably more effective) to use the shorter springs instead.
That's a pretty popular mod that basically achieves the same thing. Agreed that changing the springs is easier. If you want to go even lower in the front (around 2" total) you could do both.
if i put on the 15/16 front sway bar, do you recommend putting on a rear sway bar as well. or should i just go with just the 7/8 sway bar? i dont see anything on your sight to stiffen up the rear, besides the rear seat plate?
Justin Bowtell Good question! The one that we sell is made specifically for the Cougar, but some of the Mustang parts vendors do sell a Mustang version of the divider panel.
Do away with the shock towers. First gen Mustang body's are 68.2" inches wide. A C4 Corvette (84-96) is 71" inches would work well. But they've become popular transplants for everything, so they're not cheap unless you get lucky. I've thought about trying to hack up and weld one out of a late model Crown Vic. But they're 77.3" wide. Point is you want a rack n pinion K member setup because it's independent of the body, flex wise. Plus it also makes room for a double overhead cam setup (Coyote engine).
Where do you jack the car up to shift the shock towers? I tried to fit this part to an undamaged, all-original sheet metal 69 Cougar, and it does not fit by about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. I figure I can jack the car up in different places to twist the car to get it to fit, but wonder if anyone has experience doing this.
It now runs and drives! A video on the disc brake conversion is coming soon. 1968 Cougar 289-2V - First Start After Rebuild 1968 Mercury Cougar - First Drive After Rebuild
It's still in progress but nearing completion! Andrew has been chronicling his progress here: classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=1096
I hate to say this but , Scott drake comes from overseas too, my front suspension is Scott drake and it fail on the lower control arms , came apart , cheep , too sad
Scott Drake, which was purchased by Holley Performance Parts when Scott retired, offers 2 different versions. Economy: www.holley.com/products/restoration/suspension/front_control_arms/parts/D7DZ-3078-A Premium: www.holley.com/products/restoration/suspension/front_control_arms/parts/C8OZ-3078-A The premium version used to say Made in USA, but I have not noticed if that is still on there since Holley took over. There is definitely a reason why they charge more for the premium version, and it ain't just the paint....
Man you guys make the most detailed videos and suggestions that benefit us as owners in restoring my 68 cougar xr7 and I’m like a sponge with these videos I bought parts in the past money has been tight but I will be buying more in the future thank you guys
I just stumbled across your video I like how you left the mess ups in. Keep it real.
Great video, nice summary of how to improve a lot of the deficient areas in the originals. It's not necessary to fit a high dollar aftermarket suspension to make these cars drive and handle well.
Excellent video! Highly informative and very nice to see a how-to video that doesn’t insult my ears with a bunch of unnecessary heavy metal background noise that some sadly misinformed individual thought they needed to be cool.
I’m restoring a 67 Mustang and I learn a lot from your videos...including some great additions to my shopping list!
17:12 when putting the front coil spring in if using this type of spring compressor. put the top shock tower mount bolts back in and locate top shock bracket onto them. that will stop compressor from slipping and allow everything to seat in correct position. great video and very informative
Great job on enlightening us on the Mustang /Cougar improvements
The spring compressor tool is available on eBay. Around $70. I have one, it's a great tool and a safe one for working around coil springs.
Un maestro Andrew 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Excelente trabajo 👍🏻
En Argentina algunas piezas del Mustang/Cougar coinciden con el Falcón (argentino) así que tus trabajos me dan buenas ideas.
Saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷
Great job making this video, and I agree with all your suggestions. I bought my 1969-70 Mustang Boss 302 Chassis Modification Manual from Bill Maier at Maier Racing in 1980, and still have it.
thanks to this video I found hope to my aging mustang suspension. I believe all the upgrades mentioned in this video will improve the performance of the suspension and stiffness of the chassis so much that it will give a run for its money to any other aftermarket set up. and hopefully I will prove it in the autocross.
Working on my mustang glad I found you guys . Thanks for the very useful information.
Nice to see some guidance videos on '67-'68 Cats. I've been out of the wrench turning scene (restoring) for about 22 years now. Looking forward to tearing into my '67 XR7 Dan Gurney. Thanks for the info. Keep 'em coming.
Good information. Great tips. Subscribed.
I have a 67 Mustang, thanks for the tips, looking forward to using these upgrades.
Working on a 1979 Mustang GT everything (and more) also applies too the 'stang lots of great ideas and low buck keep up the excellent, Thanks.
work.
Great video! Thanks. I'm doing a lot to reinforce my 65 fastback unibody. Your information was very helpful.
I used Competition Engineering subframe connectors for my 1965 Mustang Fastback in 1982. Maier Racing and Total Control Suspension also has even better subframe connectors now, they really help stiffen up the chassis.
Great video, I really like the DIY way you do things, not just bolting on somebodies kit. Top Notch!
I just did those shock tower reinforcements using those parts (bought from you!) and they look great. Thanks!
Thank you. great info for a beginner. Happy Holidays.
While I had mine tore down that far took the vent cowl off and sealed the vent leaks FOREVER, fenders have to be off, bit of new sheet metal I'm thinking, was early 90s, some Bondo and much undercoating, terrible design. Luckily car was only outside off and on for 15yrs or so so floor pans were in fine shape somehow. Wish there was a UA-cam back then, did have a mustang restoration book and Dad's phone book size factory service manual. Was able to buy a 110v Miller gas mig for $600 and learned to weld, had to section in part of right rear quarter that had gallon of Bondo and brazing done to it. Could find a nice entire interior, and did in the boneyard for $50, those were good times to restore 60s hot rods. Too bad I didn't keep my 69 Ranchero I paid $100 for, still have the chrome rally wheels with GT ctr caps that were on it, don't know what there worth lately, anyway happy wrenching & restoring.
i want to thank you guys for the shock tower reinforcement plate idea found in the boss 302 manual. i also boxed my lower control arms as well, maybe you should of mentioned the shelby upper control arm drop trick as well?, or the roller spring perches from open track racing, open track racing has a lot of those parts mentioned in the boss 302 modification manual, i cant stress enough how much great info is in that low cost manual,
Nice easy to understand videos. Thanks a lot. I have a 69 mustang “raven”. Just subscribed!
Very informative and entertaining, had few laughs too. Thanks guys!
69 70, those plates plates are standard for the cougar platform. They were special order for boss 302 and big block mustangs.
my pop had a 67 cougar I remember so fun fast times in that car...great fix vid's bud
Great vid with great info! Hope you keep making them!
Parabéns brother, ótimo serviço.
One thing you might try is to put your jack under the front crossmember and jack it up a little at a time until the brace fits. But be careful, it's hollow and might bend / dent if you put too much weight on it. You could also try under the core support, since that's more solid.
Also you could try floor jack under the oil pan with a block of wood. It works with bottom cross brace.
@@l.munnier9658 Be careful if you try to lift under the oil pan. We see a lot of dented oil pans because of this. Make sure the block of wood is wider than the oil pan and that you are very careful about the placement of it as you lift. One slip can really dent the oil pan.
Great video. Thank you.
The Cougars in those years were notorious for the squeaky upper control arm bushings.
Awesomeness ✌ 😎
Great videos Don. What's your thought on seam welding the front end?
love to own a mercury cougar,owning a mustang has a been a thing in our country so far like a sign of status.if i could have a chance to own one ill be a different type of animal on their neck of the woods.
Every full blown restoration has almost always started off with, while im doing this, i might as well…. 😆
these are some really good videos that you guys make, lemme tell you. so much insight to mercury cougars, and i dont even own one! hahaha i have a falcon
Do you guy’s happen to have a video using a safe method to using a compressor tool fo remove front coil springs? It looked like there was a video snippet on this video, showing you guy’s doing that. Thx
We do not have a videos about the different types of compressors and how to use them safely currently. Here is a video that talks about what Ford used, and some do's and don'ts: ua-cam.com/video/p67IU0GvAII/v-deo.html
Global West negative roll kit. They Rock
100% Awesome!
After replacing the uppers arms what would make the front end sit few inches to high? Restored it yrs back, been in storage. Didn't have some of those parts back then, I'm running over 400hp, set for strip right now. Made Frame connectors, made a huge difference.
I asked around our shop, and everyone basically just scratched their head and said, "not sure". Might want to post this on www.ClassicCougarCommunity.com with some pictures and see if any of the other Cougar owners have experienced anything like that.
@@WestCoastClassicCougar did do it while swapping on some 73 Granada discs on a lift, loosened and tightened them while on the ground but didn't do anything. Maybe the spindle is bit lower, pretty sure I checked all that well tho. Getting close to retirement, gonna go through it add few finishing touches and strengthen the front end. Thanks for asking around, I'll check that link too.
have you made a disc brake conversion video yet I am interested in doing it
Just recently finished it! Here it is: ua-cam.com/video/H6959c6ayKI/v-deo.html
I want to see it complete and on the ground. I wouldn't be afraid to buy Scott Drake products.
If people do drop the front with new coils that are shorter. Make a note that warns them to always have the head lights re-aimed for the correct distance at night for both low-beams and high-beams . I would also watch for any deviation in the fuel tank Sending Unit that give a false reading in the last 1/4 tank of gas because the Tank angle has also been lowered .
Everything is calibrated at the factory for the Cougar that came off the assembly line with new coils, rear leaf springs and a 160 lb weight in the drivers seat to simulate daily use for the bumper heights and the weight FOB with a full tank of gas and the Spare Tire .
Why don't you recommend welding in the rear seat panel?
I have a 1970 cougar that I'm restoring and wanted to ask about the front sway bar. What is a good size for replacing the factory one I have purchased a few products from you like the rear seat plate that goes across and the shock tower plates along with the export brace just trying to see what is a good size for that sway bar?
im looking for subframe connectors for a 67 cougar any advice would be great.
i got really nice front and rear sway bars from Quickor garage good people/ great prices
What metal prep did you do before welding the show tower reinforcement plate ? do you spray weld through primer on the backside of it and on the section of the shock tower that will be boxed in ?
Can a flux core weld the shock tower brace?
What's the best after market front suspension to use and get rid of shock towers
We only carry factory style suspension components. So, we cannot really speak to what is the best options for getting rid of the shock towers. You could try asking on classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/ and see what feedback other owners have.
Why don't you recommend welding in the rear seat panel? Repost of williegates627.
Hey, love the video. I noticed you didn’t say anything about the Shelby Drop. I’m currently restoring a 66 Mustang and I was wondering what you think about doing the Shelby Drop. It does sound easier (and probably more effective) to use the shorter springs instead.
That's a pretty popular mod that basically achieves the same thing. Agreed that changing the springs is easier. If you want to go even lower in the front (around 2" total) you could do both.
@@WestCoastClassicCougar Thank you so much! You guys are awesome!
if i put on the 15/16 front sway bar, do you recommend putting on a rear sway bar as well. or should i just go with just the 7/8 sway bar?
i dont see anything on your sight to stiffen up the rear, besides the rear seat plate?
Want to add frame connector and 4 link suspension in rear end
Will the rear seat/trunk divider fit a 67 mustang as well?
Justin Bowtell Good question! The one that we sell is made specifically for the Cougar, but some of the Mustang parts vendors do sell a Mustang version of the divider panel.
Awesome thanks I really enjoyed the video keep up the great work .
I have a 73 maverick any ideas or recommendations on suspension
Do away with the shock towers. First gen Mustang body's are 68.2" inches wide. A C4 Corvette (84-96) is 71" inches would work well. But they've become popular transplants for everything, so they're not cheap unless you get lucky. I've thought about trying to hack up and weld one out of a late model Crown Vic. But they're 77.3" wide. Point is you want a rack n pinion K member setup because it's independent of the body, flex wise. Plus it also makes room for a double overhead cam setup (Coyote engine).
Where do you jack the car up to shift the shock towers? I tried to fit this part to an undamaged, all-original sheet metal 69 Cougar, and it does not fit by about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. I figure I can jack the car up in different places to twist the car to get it to fit, but wonder if anyone has experience doing this.
Another trick is to box the lower control arm. Weld a plate to the bottom.
Good grief! How many of us have fallen down this well? While we're at it....
How to install rear sway bars 1970 mustang
Any updates on Andrew's Cougar?
It now runs and drives! A video on the disc brake conversion is coming soon.
1968 Cougar 289-2V - First Start After Rebuild
1968 Mercury Cougar - First Drive After Rebuild
Will this work with a Torino or Fairlane?
There are some differences, so not everything shown here is cross-compatible.
Do you know what is is cross-compatible?
I would have done the Shelby-Drop modification since the uppers were already out of the car.
How about a video on how the car is now?
It's still in progress but nearing completion! Andrew has been chronicling his progress here: classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=1096
West Coast Classic Cougar Is
paint those inner fender wells with gloss black rust-o-leum paint and throw away the rattle cans. looks better and last much longer.
hey you guys , I'm in the process of working on a 1968 Dan Gurney. I have a question about a piece only a true professional can tell me about.
Okay... what piece?
I hate to say this but , Scott drake comes from overseas too, my front suspension is Scott drake and it fail on the lower control arms , came apart , cheep , too sad
Scott Drake, which was purchased by Holley Performance Parts when Scott retired, offers 2 different versions.
Economy: www.holley.com/products/restoration/suspension/front_control_arms/parts/D7DZ-3078-A
Premium: www.holley.com/products/restoration/suspension/front_control_arms/parts/C8OZ-3078-A
The premium version used to say Made in USA, but I have not noticed if that is still on there since Holley took over. There is definitely a reason why they charge more for the premium version, and it ain't just the paint....
You really don't need to change the camera angle every 10 seconds
domino effect love it or hate it .It always happens .
this makes me wish i didn't sell the cougar i had.. :/
O
:-)
What a crapper