ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY BASICS and How To Photograph STAR TRAILS
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- I FORGOT TO MENTION: If you're going to do the long exposure, like more than a few minutes long, drop your ISO to as low as it can go!
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I'm new to astrophotography...and I appreciate the video! One thing I have run into so far tonight is light pollution getting worse the longer I have the shutter set. I suppose the only way I'm going to get around this is by doing a timelapse. Awesome video helps me alot!
Dude thank you so much for the shoutout!!! You are awesome! And another great tutorial!
It's the least I could do to support my bestest homie!
You literally just saved me $20 bucks because I was just about to buy an intervalometer right before i clicked on your video then i saw how bad it looks like if i took it with the remote. Now I'm definately going to stick with the timelapse method.
You had me at tea
YAS! lol
Although I only have a nikon d5600 with a kit lens, hopefully I can take a few dope night shots. Thanks for the tips 🤙
You should definitely be able to get some great shots like this from that camera. It just takes a little experimenting and some effort and time!
Get the Rokinon lens! It makes my d3400 great
Can u also make a video on how to use built in introvalometer for taking multiple shots...had checked some videos but wasn't quite helpful...thanks in advance.
Thanks for the video! I actually have my camera set up shooting the stars now! So what kind of tea should I be drinking to get the best astro images?
I'm partial to Jasmine pearls, but I also really love a good Earl Grey (which is what I had the other night)! 😜😁🎩🎩🎩
No, no, no, no, no. Everyone knows your astro images come out much more sharp when the photographer drinks coffee, not tea.......... armatures. :D
I guess that means I'll never have sharp astro images then...😭...lol
Thanks
I know I comment all the time, but it’s ironic how I never used to watch photography videos when I used my iPhone for taking pictures, but now since I have a camera, that’s literally all I watch on UA-cam now😂
Thank you for the video. I tried to do star trails and although it was blurry the picture was gray with the stars. I don’t know how it happened. I did the trail for 15 minutes, my ISO was 200, and F3.1. I use the 14mm Rokinon lens as well. I’m going to try the info you gave in the video for my settings tonight. Thank you
Wow awesome.
Love this. I'm a recent subscriber and will keep following your stuff. Great work and thank you for the education :)
Hey thanks, I really appreciate that!
Fujifilm X-T20, F/2.8, 18mm, ISO 1000, taking 99 images, over 90 minutes, 20 second exposures each, 40 second pause between images, timer was set to 1 minute cycles. This worked well on my first try at star trails.
That's awesome! Glad it worked out.
@@BrentHall practicing for my April 2020 Yellowstone trip.
@@timwildey7974 that will be amazing! It'll probably still be pretty cold at night up there though!
I'm going to try this out tonight.
btw, look up "bahtinov mask" if you need help getting your stars pinpoint sharp. There's also a new formula to determine how long you can keep your shutter open based on your latitude. There's a website that will do the calculations for you, it's in French though so Google will have to translate the page. Check out "Nebula Photos' " channel for the link. I think it's in his "How to shoot Orion without a tracker" video.
hey man, I just found your channel and your amazing, I just got an A7iii and I'm just getting into astrophotography, Im actually looking to get a tripod haha
That's awesome! Definitely get a tripod though. . . :P
lots of great tips as always - GRACIAS
Hey thanks Doug, I really appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Hello, will Samyang 135mm f/2.0 gonna be good for astro or Samyang AF 14mm F2.8 is way better for timelaps and star trails?
This was very helpful.. is these similar possible in basic cameras? Like 1300d or something? Also i would like to know how to convert timelapse videos into photographs..
Thankyou
Yes, you can definitely do this with that camera, as long as you have an intervalometer for the timelapse or a shutter control for the long exposure in bulb mode. To convert a timelapse video into still images you would probably have to save the video as jpegs in your video editor. I know premiere does it, but it's only jpeg, you wouldn't be able to get raw images out of it.
@@BrentHall thankyou so much for your reply i will try this tips as soon as possible
So for the timelapse method, do I just use the 500 rule?
If you have a camera with about 18mp or less then it's probably okay, but nowadays I tend to stay away from the 500 rule because it doesn't work with higher mp. I tend to use the npf rule, and photo pills has a handy npf rule calculator. If I don't have access to that then I'd just use the 300 rule to be super safe, and then check the images to see where the star trails are starting and then back it down from there.
What's the size of your camera's sensor? Does len's size matter? Do I use prime, zoom or telephoto?
I am using full frame cameras. The focal length does matter. It doesn't matter whether you use a prime or a zoom, though primes are usually faster (bigger max apertures, e.g. f/1.4) I use both primes and zooms for astro.
Wow!!! This is great 👍👌
Many thanks! 😀🙏
What about LONG Exposure? Is it necessary to be on or off ???
I've a question
How much gap should be between each images during start trail timelapse? Is it fine to keep it 1 second?
It depends. If you're doing it to get an actual timelapse out of it, you could do more of an interval, like 2-3 sec. This will make the overall shoot time longer. If you're doing the timelapse just to take the stills and blend them together for a star trail shot then you want the least amount of time in between shots to lessen the gap in the stars, so 1 sec will be good for that.
Another great video a+
thanks for your concepts!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Hi Brent, I own a Samsung Galaxy S20+. I want to achieve some nice Astro shots. I know there aren't any Universal settings so to speak but can you give me an idea of what the best settings are for Astro on S20+ Pro Mode ? Thanks bro BTW love your videos bro !
Wait I didn't hear how long you set your interval timer to take the photos to get those 200 photos? shoot every 30 seconds or what?
I usually do around 2-5 sec intervals if is just on a tripod. If it's on a motion control system then I do it for like 45-55 sec intervals.
@@BrentHall Motion control system like a star tracker?
Great vid! Just visited Joshua Tree National Park, tried to get some pics when dark, but the wind was too strong, all pics are blurry 😭
Thanks Marshall! Yeah, I;ve been out there on plenty of super windy days, definitely makes it harder for long exposures!
Nice tutorial. I did my first "successful" star trails photo a couple weeks back. I used a Canon 5d4, 11-24 f/4 lens @18mm, f/4, iso 1600 and 180 20" exposures. It came out really well other than lots of light pollution and a few clouds on the horizon. I'm still scouting for some compositions/areas with less light pollution. I'm going to do another one on the 29th of this month as we will have something like 8 hours of moonless sky according to Photo Pills. Can't wait to do another one and some Milky Way shots when it's MW season again. flic.kr/p/2cHdgVF
Thanks Mike! You got some nice trails in that shot. You definitely have lots of flat space out there.😁
How did you take the 180 photos? Do you stand there for an hour pressing the shutter every time it's finished the exposure? or do you have some kind of special trigger?
Is it possible to photograph the stars, or the galaxy, with an iPhone XS?
Don't know, I've never used one.
so, I should abandon the idea of doing it with my iPhone!!! :( Nevertheless, very good tips on how to do it with a dslr (which I sold for my iPhone).
I mean, it might technically be possible to pull off with some phones, but it wouldn't be easy. You'd need a phone that can do a 30 sec exposure and had a higher iso than 800 (like on the samsungs) and then you'd either need to take at least 100 shots manually or find a way to take high res timelapses and then blend them the same way in post.
Should the timer for a 90 mins star trail shot for example be 30 sec exposure x 5 sec delay x 180 timed?
Hey Karl, sorry the delayed response, it's been an intense week on my end. Sure, if you want an actual 90 min of exposure time, but that will definitely be longer than 90 mins total for being out there. If you're doing one single exposure then I feel like longer is better for nice star trails, but if you blend the timelapse images, then I think you could get away with whatever you wanted for the exposure duration since its blended. When I shoot astro lapses I usually do like 15-25 sec exposures (depending on which lens I use) with around a 2-3 sec interval time, and do between 200-400 shots, but that's specifically for my astro lapses. If I wanted to make a star trail out of that, I'd take probably bio more than 150 of those images for it to blend. And when you blend that many images it will take a while, even if you have a powerful computer, cause that's a lot of processing.
I have only sony dsc h300 i hope te get some good shots like these that you meda you are best photographer in vorld i love you💜💜💝💝.love from croatia😘😘😘😘
I don't know, I've never used that camera. Looks like it has a manual mode and up to 30 sec max shutter speed and 3200 ISO. You could certainly try to get some regular star shots, but you'd have to have a trigger or intervalometer of some sort to get a timelapse or make a super long exposure.
so once you set up your settings, let's say 30 secs @ 3200 ISO, how many shots you need and how much time in between the shots? to have a similar effect to your 90 min exposure? tks!
You'd probably want a second or 2 in between, cause that's about as short as you can go. then if you wanted a 90 min exposure you'd need to timelapse for at least 90-100 mins.
Great video on the introduction to doing star trail shots. I haven't really tried too many star trails attempts and had a question on the timelapse method. Is it better to do more shorter exposure images (30-35 seconds each) or doing a less longer exposure images (3-4 minutes each)? And if there is an advantage to either, what is the reasoning behind it? Happy shooting.
Thanks! I personally prefer the shorter exposures and then blending them in post, because of hot pixels. I don't like them, and I don't like taking the time to heal them out in post. But that's just me.
@@BrentHall Thanks for replying. I think I have to test it out and figure out what works best in my situation. I'm mainly stacking and not using the shots for time lapses. I'm just not sure if it will be better to do a bit longer exposures and drop the ISO to get the least amount of noise but not too long where I start getting a lot of hot pixels. Trial and error I guess.
Math is good love that
Great video mate just wondering ive got the Sony a6300 with the 18mm is it going to make a difference with 14mm
Also any suggestions for the southern hemisphere
Yeah, 14 should definitely make a difference, especially because you're on a crop body. In the southern hemisphere, shoot for the the celestial south pole in the middle of the frame for some cool concentric trails. You can also aim east or west to get some crazy 3 way star trails that we can't get up here in the northern hemisphere.
Just starting out and am going to give this a go with my Huawei P30 Pro using the time lapse mode as well as the built in star trail setting. Should I use PhotoShop or something like the free DeepStarStacker or am I wrong to think they do the same thing? And should I use RAW or jpg or doesn't it make much difference.
I haven't used deep star stacker, but assume it's similar to the StartStaX program I use. Photoshop works too, if you just add the images as layers and then select all and set to lighten in the blend mode. I actually just made tutorial on how to do it on phones, you might check that one out. I always use raw if available, personally, but you certainly don't have to, since it's more time consuming.
Thanks. I'll check out the new video.
that was cool
Many thanks!
Hi. So uh, I have a crop sensor, should I multiply the focal length to the crop factor before dividing it to 500?
Yep! 😁
Hi,
Can I capture star trails with Canon EFS 10-18MM lens? What should be the shutter speed?
Yes you can the max shutter speed you could do would be 30 sec.
Is it possible to shot star trails or time lapse under full moon?
Yes it is. I do it quite often.
I find my ideal shutter speed to be about 4 minutes with low ISO, got to love tracking mounts 😁
I'd love to get a small tracking mount! Maybe someday. for now though, I did rig up a piggyback setup on one of my 10 in telescopes, so we'll see how well that works for some longer exposure astro images this summer.
@@BrentHall actually that's the same thing I do, I don't see the need to spend the extra for a stat adventurer when the thread on top of my scope is the same as the camera. I think it works just as good or even better because y0u have the hand controller with the scope mount.
5:03 how is the ISO so high but there is such little noise in photo?
3200 iso on my 5D4 is not terribly noisy, and then add in a little bit of noise reduction and it comes out pretty decent.
what constellation would that be? 5:03
Orion. :)
Nice video
Many thanks!
When using the 500 rule do I factor in cropped sensors? For example if I'm using a 25mm lens on a M4/3 body (x2 crop). Will I divide 500 by 25 or 50?
Yeah, if that lens is gonna be a 50mm equivalent, then you'd be safe with 10 sec or less max shutter speed.
@@BrentHall Thank you for the response! I have one more question, if I wanted to use the intervalometer method and add all the photos in Photoshop, would it be better for me to shoot @ 10 seconds or should I add a few extra seconds so that a small star trail starts to form in the photo (like 15sec)?
Yeah, so if you're going to be doing star trails, then it won't really matter, especially if you're doing a timelapse and blending them to get the longer trails. Doing slightly longer individual exposures will help make the blended shot a bit smoother looking. You only need to follow the 500 rule if you're wanting regular images with sharp pin-point like stars.
@@BrentHall ah ok that makes a lot of sense! Thank you for the response.
You bet man, good luck with it!
hi there.nice video. i just try for my first time to make a star trail photo. i have a nikkor 24mm 2.8f and i use this settings:2000 iso 2.8f 120sec. all goes great when i check it in some test. so i take 30 photo like this. but when i go but to my pc and try to fix this image in the LR, i realize 2 things.
1) first that the half images had different light exposure. (i believe that the only reasson that this could happens is bcz i change the battery in the middle ....so maybe i shake a bit the cammera) what you think?
2)and the second , and most importal is that when i try to fix the half photos (witi the same exposure) in PS, when i press "lighten" there was a lot of gaps. so i realize that happens bcz for 120sec my camera needs 120" to save the photo in memory. what can i do for that? any solutions?
3)also i try some photo just for test with 6400iso 10sec 2.8f but i have too much noisy
For your 2nd problem, you should be able to turn off the long exposure noise reduction feature and it will quit doing that. 6400 can definitely be a bit noisy depending on what camera you have, but it it might still be worth it to get the shot you're after. You can always use a bit of de-noising in post too.
4:50 I have an APS-C sensor, and I use my 18-55 kit lens. will the 500 rule apply the same way?
Yeah, but if you see any trails, then you might try adding in that crop factor to the equation. I'm not sure if the EF-S lenses need to account for that, but I think they might.
@@BrentHall thanks!
Hey man, question.
If you're doing a timelapse, why do you need an intervalometer if there is a timelapse video mode on the camera? There must be something I'm not getting.
The timelapse video mode converts the images into a video, so you wouldn't be able to edit them or blend them together. You need an actual intervalometer so you can use the still images. Some cameras have a full intervalometer built in, and some only have a timelapse movie mode, so make sure you check before you shoot!
@@BrentHall Yeah I was just playing around in the settings to see what my SL3 has. I guess I took it for granted and thought that it would have the timer function inside. Another thing I realize is that I can get good stills of the stars, however once I go into video mode for timelapse, it only goes as low as 1/30 of a second and I can't do anything else to the other settings to bring the stars into visibility. I suppose I will have to get the intervalometer to do timelapse. But how is it used though? Do you have a video on setup & such?
I only have two lens 50mm canon and tamron 18 - 400 mm on Canon 200 D. Can we work on this?
Yeah, you can use either of those.
How do you fix zippers (spaces between star movement) in photoshop ?
I don't think there's really a way, or at least an easy way, that I know about to do it in Photoshop, but StarStax does a good job.
Brent Hall can you please pass a link for mac download ?
Awesome video! 👍 Curious if you adjust the 500 rule downward, to say 400-450, for a higher MP sensor, like on a D850?
Thanks Richard! I don't think I'd change it for that reason. Higher megapixels aren't going to affect the physics, that's just due to the focal length and the rotation of the earth. The higher mp could definitely have an effect on longer shutter speeds though since it'd be much more prone to slight movements, so lowering it might help in that case. I've heard that D850 can be difficult with nailing longer exposures sometimes because of that though.
@@BrentHall Great video, spot on in most respects but the 500 rule is way out on full frame or higher MP. My D610 24 MP with a 20mm f1.8G at f2.2 starts to trail beyond 15 seconds. There's an excel chart online somewhere which uses a more accurate formula to calculate exposure times but the 300 rule is much better on my camera/lens combos.
Yeah, the 500 rule I did is for my full frame, but you can also just multiply your focal length by your crop factor and then divide 500 by that. So your 20mm on your nikon crop body with a 1.5x crop would be a 30mm full frame equivalent, stitch would give you a max shutter speed of about 16 sec, and that's also really close to your 300 rule. Either way works.
D610 is full frame, not crop.
Hi ..Am traveling to new Zealand ....so what star should i follow....also am facing an issue that during the trip there will be a full moon... need your help on the same...i have a d800 with a 12-24 lens. Also, is it ok if i try this after the moonset as during my trip there are days when the moonset is at 12 am
Well you definitely won't have the star trails around Polaris, lol. You can do it anywhere, to get star trails. If you still want the circumpolar trails then you'll need to point towards the south celestial pole, and if you point east or west toward the celestial equator then you will be able to get star trails in 3 different directions. so it's just up to how you want to compose your images. It's definitely okay to go after moonset! That's when the sky will be the darkest. You could also go a little before moonset and keep your camera in the same spot so you can get a shot with the landscape lit up a little more, then get the same shot after it goes down to get the darker sky and blend them in post.
@@BrentHall Dear . Brent...thanks so much for the prompt reply.Yes will definitely do as per your suggestions
Looks like we have different definitions of the word "cheap" lol. Then again it is when you compare that Rokinon 14mm against some $2k+ telephoto lens.
I found astrophotography interesting and wanted to try it with an old DSLR. But this is one expensive hobby.
Yeah, everyone's definition is different for sure. But that Rokinon lens is about as cheap as it gets for good quality lenses. You can of course start doing astro with whatever you have though, any dslr and kit lens will do. Just get out there and start messing around with whatever you have. :)
@@BrentHall I've just started getting into astrophotography/visual astronomy and that $2k telephoto lens might be considered cheap by some! lol
But yeah, basically what I'm doing is keeping it simple. Borrowed my sister's decade old Rebel T1i and bought an intervalometer.
I’m not sure what to think about this. You gave excellent instructions and then at the end of it all said that you don’t like doing this because the pictures are crap. You prefer to do time lapse. Could you give me a link to that lesson if it’s a better way to do this
I don't recall saying the single long exposure method produces crap images, though I'm pretty sure I did say that it has a tendency to create more hot pixels, and also that it is overall a much longer process for both capturing and editing, and a lot of people just don't want to put out that kind of effort. I don't have a complete tutorial on doing astrolapses yet, but I am working on it. I'm sorry the video frustrated you.
Thank you. I look forward to seeing the time lapse video when you release it 😊
I can't get the images after I shoot the time lapse. My camera have already turned them into a movie . How can I fix it?
Have you found a solution? I have the same problem...
@@zoerossel3822 no I didn’t find the way to do it sorry.If you find the solution can you tell me how to do this please?
@@stef.791 Thanks for your answer. I'll tell you if I find the solution :)
where did you get the teapot?
It's a Jetboil. I got it at REI.
dude what is the iso aperture for 90 minute?
Since I was doing a timelapse, my aperture was wide open and my ISO was a bit higher, around 1600-2500 or so. If you're going to do a single long exposure though, you could definitely stop the aperture down a bit and set the iso to 100, or whatever your base ISO is for your camera.
Can I use a 50 mm Canon lens?
Sure.
I'm gonna take a wild guess, I think this guy likes to drink tea...
Some would say a little too much...lol, but aside from water, I don't drink anything else. :P
@@BrentHall Joking aside, how do you handle insects and dust leaving the shutter open for over 90 minutes in the forest?
Well I never do long exposures like that. I always do timelapses and then blend them in post for long exposure simulation.
@@BrentHallI guess with a timelapse, worst case scenario you'd lose a couple shots to an insect photobomb rather than the whole shot,... BTW, why Canon not Sony? I'm looking to purchase the Sony a7 RIV any pointers or advise? Great video.
@@Order-in-Chaos For me, because my wife and I have both been on Canon since like 2008, so we have a lot of glass investment, but also because I really like the way the Canons feel and perform. We're just the most comfortable with the Canons I guess. Sony makes some incredible cameras though, for sure!
WBDHJ3
Your not scared something going come up behind you ?
Not really. There definitely wouldn't be any other people out there, and the only other animal that would be considered any sort of threat is mountain lions, but they'd have to be pretty desperate. Mountains are extremely timid and almost never attack anything bigger than themselves, nor any creatures in numbers.
"super cheap" lens
13 minutes later and no clue on how to photography star trails. UA-cam has become such a shit show.
So which part of my 13 minute shit show did you not comprehend? You want to do start trails, then you have 2 options: do it in camera with a long exposure, for which depending on your camera, you will need a trigger or intervalometer. Option 2 is to do a timelapse and blend the images in post. Thanks for trashing my video, and my effort to help people though...
You labeled it wrong. Where in your video do you show how to shoot a 2 minute Bulb long exposure or longer? I expected to see some examples and results. You just babbled about nothing for 13 minutes.
Okay so I went back and watched it again, and I will admit that I definitely got sidetracked and turned it into more of an astro basics thing, but I did talk about how to do the star trails, or at least how I do them. I did not say anything about shooting a two minute exposure in bulb mode, but I did say that one of the 2 ways you could do a star trail shot was to do a long exposure, and for that I did say that you would still need a trigger of some sort to keep the shutter open for your desired length. I also displayed at least two image samples of star trails showing the lengths for which I left the shutter open. I then went on to show you how to do the star trails the way I normally do them, by taking multiple images via a timelapse and blend them in post to get the final star trail image. So I'm sorry for stealing 13 minutes of your time, though I will also say that just because you did not gain any useful information out of my video, does not mean that everyone else will share your negative view, and to say that I spent 13 minutes talking about nothing and that my video was a "shit show" is highly subjective and (in my opinion) pretty unwarranted, but that's cool, this is a public platform and I've been subjected to way worse. I will also apologize again though, as I did not mean to cause you or anyone else anger, I am simply trying to help people. So all I can do is to say sorry that my video wasn't helpful to you, and I'll try again (at some point) and make another video solely about star trails and go into more detail and try to keep it on track and as concise as possible. In any case, all the best to you and your star trails endeavors, and if you haven't already found better videos explaining it your liking, then feel free to DM or email me and I'll gladly give you some more tailored, written tips without any of the blabbing.
@@BrentHall The title says, "ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY BASICS and How To Photograph STAR TRAILS" I honestly expected to see/hear "This is a step by step tutorial on how to shoot star trails and a demo of your workflow." "Here's how to take shorter exposures and stack them and here's a step by step on how to take a single long exposure in Bulb mode." I didn't mean your video specifically was a shit show. It was the first result that popped up in the search because of the title and at no point did you demonstrate your work flow. My response wasn't a personal attack on you personally but more of UA-cam rant of how everyone is making videos and it's becoming more difficult to find a good material.