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Hey Monty, that's a very methodic step-by-step tutorial! I will be removing my Saginaw four speed trans on my 1968 Camaro to swap in a Muncie M21. There are only minor differences vs. your car like the starter on the opposite side ... thanks for sharing!
I'm enjoying your videos. Better than Netflix. I notice you take the bottom bolts out last. I like to take the top bolts out last if I can. That way you don't have to hold to keep from tilting outward. Also, if you had a Grand Prix you wouldn't probably need to pull the engine to replace the cam. I know, small price to have the real deal. LOL
Ha! Thanks John! Been a while since I filmed this... maybe I had a support under the tail of the transmission, hence the bottom bolts last? Anyway, yeah, more than one way to skin the cat, right? Since this video, I installed a TKO... then took that out, and installed a TKX... and I still don't remember which bolts I pulled last. HA, ha... thanks for the comment!
I had so many questions about my shifter and muncie transmission. Its awesome to see one together and how everything is supposed to be connected. I wish more people would show close ups of stuff like this.
Thanks Jose! So glad my video helped... it took me forever to figure out all of the shifter mechanism components. If you have any other questions, let us know! Thanks again for the comment.
The sliding jack, or the jack stand trays? They're steel... I like the jack trays, but the sliding jack is terrible. Check out Advantage Lifts, they seem to have some great ideas for lift accessories.
Those Hurst locking shifter clips or as you called them, C clips will eat the rubber bushing on a stock factory shifter. I went back to using the factory lock clips. If I use my aftermarket Hurst Comp Plus shifter with the stop bolts then I use the nylon bushings cause the metal ones break from hard shifts in my 70 Z/28. 5:43 are not factory but available in a Hurst Pit Pack with nylon bushings.
Hi Monty, Awesome video. Just a couple of questions. How heavy is the Muncie? I believe the Muncie has an aluminum case. I have a Saginaw which is cast lead. :) No one man job for me...not Arnold. 2. When you installed the new TKO/TKX transmissions you no longer had the reverse lockout mechanism. Did that require any additional part removal from the steering column or from the engine? Any ill effects on removing all that hardware? Have a good Memorial Day!
Thanks Danno... yeah, it weighs around 90 pounds. Good question about the reverse lock out. I removed the hardware, and the steering column still has that bracket hanging off of it. No ill effects from doing so. Have a great weekend!
@@FastMonty Thank you Monty. So with the original Muncie when you wanted to lock the steering column and remove the key from the ignition one would have to stop the engine push the clutch in and put the transmission in reverse. (been awhile) column is locked. Now your column still locks but the new 5 speed can be in any state, say first and the column will still lock? Or am I wrong?
Hi Monty, A quick question. I may be missing something here so correct me. When removing the Muncie from the car why did you remove the Hurst Shifter and 3 linkage bars that go forward that attach to the side of the transmission? Can't one just leave that alone and remove the shifter handle, speedo cable and reverse light wire as the first operation. Then the driveshaft and cross member. Next the 4 bolts that secure the tranny to the bell housing. I would like to keep all the linkage attached to the transmission. Can I do that? What roadblocks will I run in too? Thanks in Advance.
Hey Danno, good question. A couple things... one, getting at that top left bolt might be more of a challenge with all of the shift linkages in the way. Two, if I'm not mistaken, the shifter assembly will not allow you to pull the transmission back 8 inches. So, there's that. Give it a shot and let us know. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you for the response. Those two items you mentioned must be the reason people remove the linkage. To much of a PITA leaving it on and trying to remove it especially something that heavy.
Great question... the four big bolts? I have no idea. But, I would suggest reaching out to @silversporttransmissions I'm sure they know exactly what bolt to use. Thanks, and good luck!
Good question Russ... I tried that, and couldn't do it. (The Radiator/housing, was in the way, as I couldn't tilt the motor/trans enough) I suspect you can do it, but the front clip probably needs to be removed. OR, get a hoist that will allow you more angle? If you figure it out, let us know!
Hey Justin, congrats on your upgrade! I still have my original 10 bolt with 3:55 gears. I'm still saving my money for a new transmission, then one day, I might be able to upgrade the rear end. But, it's holding up fine so far.
thanks again Im going to remove my trans. tommorrow, if you havent, check out Nitemare Performance, all Pontiac. Anyone else here check it out if you need parts. Great detail BTW really helps. Did my front end today
Be sure to subscribe for more, click here; ua-cam.com/users/fastmontysgarage Then get your FMG hat here; three color combos www.etsy.com/shop/fastmontysgarage
Hey Monty, that's a very methodic step-by-step tutorial! I will be removing my Saginaw four speed trans on my 1968 Camaro to swap in a Muncie M21. There are only minor differences vs. your car like the starter on the opposite side ... thanks for sharing!
Glad I could help, Steve! When you're ready to upgrade to a TKX, I did that install too. (Same as a TKO) Have fun!
I'm enjoying your videos. Better than Netflix. I notice you take the bottom bolts out last. I like to take the top bolts out last if I can. That way you don't have to hold to keep from tilting outward. Also, if you had a Grand Prix you wouldn't probably need to pull the engine to replace the cam. I know, small price to have the real deal. LOL
Ha! Thanks John! Been a while since I filmed this... maybe I had a support under the tail of the transmission, hence the bottom bolts last? Anyway, yeah, more than one way to skin the cat, right? Since this video, I installed a TKO... then took that out, and installed a TKX... and I still don't remember which bolts I pulled last. HA, ha... thanks for the comment!
Very helpful!!! Thanks Mike
Welcome! Glad to hear it helped. See ya!
I had so many questions about my shifter and muncie transmission. Its awesome to see one together and how everything is supposed to be connected. I wish more people would show close ups of stuff like this.
Thanks Jose! So glad my video helped... it took me forever to figure out all of the shifter mechanism components. If you have any other questions, let us know! Thanks again for the comment.
Was just wondering dimensions of your alluminum plate inbetween your lift ramps, looks like a great idea,thanks
The sliding jack, or the jack stand trays? They're steel... I like the jack trays, but the sliding jack is terrible. Check out Advantage Lifts, they seem to have some great ideas for lift accessories.
Thanks!
Thanks Danno!
Wow I live off 54 in New Port Richey,FL.. do you guys have a shop in Dunedin..?
Thanks Paul... I wish I had a shop. This is my home garage, in San Diego. Just a short drive from you. ha, ha...
Those Hurst locking shifter clips or as you called them, C clips will eat the rubber bushing on a stock factory shifter. I went back to using the factory lock clips. If I use my aftermarket Hurst Comp Plus shifter with the stop bolts then I use the nylon bushings cause the metal ones break from hard shifts in my 70 Z/28. 5:43 are not factory but available in a Hurst Pit Pack with nylon bushings.
Thanks for the clarity on this one... been a long time since I've seen "original parts" on this beast.
Hi Monty, Awesome video. Just a couple of questions. How heavy is the Muncie? I believe the Muncie has an aluminum case. I have a Saginaw which is cast lead. :) No one man job for me...not Arnold. 2. When you installed the new TKO/TKX transmissions you no longer had the reverse lockout mechanism. Did that require any additional part removal from the steering column or from the engine? Any ill effects on removing all that hardware? Have a good Memorial Day!
Thanks Danno... yeah, it weighs around 90 pounds. Good question about the reverse lock out. I removed the hardware, and the steering column still has that bracket hanging off of it. No ill effects from doing so. Have a great weekend!
@@FastMonty Thank you Monty. So with the original Muncie when you wanted to lock the steering column and remove the key from the ignition one would have to stop the engine push the clutch in and put the transmission in reverse. (been awhile) column is locked. Now your column still locks but the new 5 speed can be in any state, say first and the column will still lock? Or am I wrong?
@@Danno74Z exactly right. Steering wheel can still lock, but has nothing to do with what Gear I'm in.
@@FastMonty Great and thanks again for the information and the videos!!
@@Danno74Z No, Thank you!
Hi Monty, A quick question. I may be missing something here so correct me. When removing the Muncie from the car why did you remove the Hurst Shifter and 3 linkage bars that go forward that attach to the side of the transmission? Can't one just leave that alone and remove the shifter handle, speedo cable and reverse light wire as the first operation. Then the driveshaft and cross member. Next the 4 bolts that secure the tranny to the bell housing. I would like to keep all the linkage attached to the transmission. Can I do that? What roadblocks will I run in too? Thanks in Advance.
Hey Danno, good question. A couple things... one, getting at that top left bolt might be more of a challenge with all of the shift linkages in the way. Two, if I'm not mistaken, the shifter assembly will not allow you to pull the transmission back 8 inches. So, there's that. Give it a shot and let us know. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you for the response. Those two items you mentioned must be the reason people remove the linkage. To much of a PITA leaving it on and trying to remove it especially something that heavy.
Agreed! Good luck!@@Danno74Z
Any idea where to get the bolts that hold the trans to the bell housing your holding up?
Great question... the four big bolts? I have no idea. But, I would suggest reaching out to @silversporttransmissions I'm sure they know exactly what bolt to use. Thanks, and good luck!
can you remove and replace the engine while the muncie is still in place?
Good question Russ... I tried that, and couldn't do it. (The Radiator/housing, was in the way, as I couldn't tilt the motor/trans enough) I suspect you can do it, but the front clip probably needs to be removed. OR, get a hoist that will allow you more angle? If you figure it out, let us know!
hey man just wondering what rear end do you have. tomorrow or more like today i am picking up a Pontiac 400 to replace my 350.
Hey Justin, congrats on your upgrade! I still have my original 10 bolt with 3:55 gears. I'm still saving my money for a new transmission, then one day, I might be able to upgrade the rear end. But, it's holding up fine so far.
thanks again Im going to remove my trans. tommorrow, if you havent, check out Nitemare Performance, all Pontiac. Anyone else here check it out if you need parts. Great detail BTW really helps. Did my front end today
Thanks Dan! And congrats on the front end.
Does Cameron want to make $30 hr to help me? Hahaha! Thanks for this it really helps
Ha! You might need to double that... I think he's now in training to be a Toyota Mechanic. Thanks Dan!