Measuring and adjusting the length of an OMC shift rod
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- In this video I measure and adjust the length of the shift rod on the Evinrude 150 to being diagnosing why it won't go into reverse.
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Hey Stu.. matt here (from Geelong).. I'm your missing man in the pic with the apache.. you may notice that the shirt might be slightly more familiar to you as I believe you took it off your back and posted to my pregnant wife who was desperate to have it for Xmas! Had to be the best present I've been given in years!! Loving the videos mate.
Hi Matt, ah, I remember that. Sorry, I'm not sure I even got to wash it! She did sound a bit stressed, I hope everything went well with your new family member. I'll put your photo up on the board properly next video, thanks for getting back in touch. :)
It's great to see people who are not afraid to fashion a "tool" for a job, rather than fork over huge dollars to buy one. I remember about 33yrs ago having to change the clutch discs/pads in a 'newly acquired' used 400cc Honda m/c. I had ordered in and waited for and finally acquired the pads, opened up the side case and was stunned to see a proprietary nut on the end of the shaft which brought the project to a screeching halt. Fortunately, a neighbor (about my Dad's age) was visiting and he saw said nut, and in a flash of brilliance, told me to take a piece of square stock that was lying on the floor, cut off about 5 or 6 inches of it, then make 4 cuts into one end, which ended up leaving 4 perfectly positioned "dogs" sticking out, which perfectly fit into the 4 slots of this end nut, and was more than ample to break the nut free, and then fasten it again after the pad swap had been completed. Sadly in this case, a one-time-only use, as the entire time I owned that bike, it never again needed clutch discs replaced.
Hey Stan, I do like making custom tools (not that this taped drill bit really counts!), particularly when you know you are going to get repeat use out of them. It is frustrating though that they are needed in the first place when a surely a standard nut would do just nicely. It always seems like a way of stopping DIY. Co-incidentally I went on a 1600km ride over easter and I felt like the clutch on my bike was slipping a bit, but it could have just been the extra load of camping gear. If they do need changing I guess I'll find out soon enough what type of nut Suzuki has used!
Thanks for taking the time to show this procedure. Excellent job.
Just what I needed. My Johnson 130 has trouble going into reverse after replacing the pinion and forward gears. I counted turns of the linkage rod when I took it out but that wasn't good enough. Very helpful knowing push is reverse. Thanks
I have a 1995 Johnson 130hp. What length is the shift rod?
Thanks for showing this and an easy method to measure that distance
I had to do this exact adjustment today. I use a rule and a small square, but I'm going to "borrow" your tape idea. I really enjoy your strong problem-solving ability!
Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing.
Good luck with the adjustment Tony. I quite like Fireship's suggestion of drilling through a timber yardstick. If you use a drill press you should end up with a nice perpendicular hole that can't be bumped like the tape.
Great video. Been following the whole series. The manual recommends shifting to forward prior to disassembly to get at the linkage pin easier. Ive found a useful trick at re assembly (when the case is bolted back up) you can make minute rod height adjustments with a long set of needle nose pliers grabbing the shift rod just under the lower cowling prior to pinning. You can use the pliers to twist the rod to needed height. This prevents having to drop the case and reinserting both the drive shaft and shift linkage again and again....
I'm with you there, anything that saves you from having to take the leg off again is a good thing!
That suggestion has to be one of the most useful I’ve even read !! Thanks !!
AMEN to that!!@@alangrant5278
Hi Stu, thanks for the videos, you are a good educator mate. Keep up the good work, it is greatly appreciated. Looking forward to the next one too.
Thanks Bruce!
After replacing my water pump and reinstalling it I couldn't get it to catch the gears in reverse. I believe this is my issue, thank you very much for the detailed advice. I'll be pulling the foot and trying this.
This method solved my problem, thank you very much for the great and very informative content!
This was what I was warned of and did find my measurements page in the manual, excellent drill bit method, I needs longer ruler but know I bloody well learnt some trick, I too took a long hard look at bent tip shift rod but didn’t touch it, I was given my Johnson 150 half apart so anything before me was possible- , my drive shaft seal land wore out top seal of Wpump housing, so a sleeve was used, there’s an idea on speeding-sleeve episode for you,cheers 🍺
This is great information and solved one of my issues. Any tips on reconnecting he shift rod to the Pin?
Quite helpful to an old outboard owner... Thanks!
Great info as always. I drop the lower sides off and don’t need to mess with the carb. Otherwise the same steps. Getting it back on is a bit tricky on your lonesome.
Very informative videos thank you so much. Love the cutaway and your explanation of how the gears work from the drive shaft operation to going from forward to reverse on one of your other video's. Thank You great video's.
Thanks mate. Glad you are enjoying the vids. :)
Another great video Stu. The tool evinrude sells to do this job is expensive! I took a wooden yardstick and bored a hole in it with a drill press at the proper measurement. It works just like the tool you made to adjust your shifter. I have to replace the water pump on my evinrude 48spl soon, so I'll be using this tool again soon!
Hey Jack, that's a good idea. With the hole drilled there is no risk of bumping the drill bit and you could drill multiple holes all labelled for the model of outboard they correspond to. Nice one! :)
Excellent vid again , friend! I just picked up a Ranger bass boat that has the FastStrike 150 (1991 model) and I have to say, these carbs are very easy to work on and who would have thought using plastic carbs would be a good idea? All six of mine were very clean, esp with this ethanol gas that destroys metal. Mine aren't warped like some ppl have had to deal with. Engine seems to be well thought out compared to some other units.
This vid will help when I make the adjustments/checks. Thanks Stu!
Great video!! This was a big help and I do thank you.
You're welcome. :)
Have a great Easter stu , enjoy the blues fest and I'll catch you when you get back from Byron , still love watching your videos and look forward to seeing more , cheers 🍻
Thanks Mate, Bluesfest was great. Had a nice ride up and back without any rain too which was nice.
Hey Stu! You need more merch, dude! I like the shirts, but I also like hats and bags and stuff too- maybe a Dangar Marine custom boat cover? You make it, I'll buy it! I love what you're doing here- why haven't you gotten a network TV show yet? Like, "This Old House"-- only with boats! Keep up the good work, buddy- I love watching.
Hi mate, I do have a couple of other items in mind but I just need to get some time off to finish designing them. I like the idea of This Old House with boats. A full hull restoration has got to be on the cards one day soon. Thanks for watching! :)
Nice! Like I said, you make it, I'll buy it- I've got a wife and 3 kids, and we're all big fans. And my kids mentioned stickers...
my 1998 40 Hp Evinrude shift rod is 21 and 15/16
Bahahahha. Need to add “sarcasm loading” to that t short motto. Love it
Hi - love your videos. I have a 1998 Johnson 115 Faststrike (j115glecm). Do you have a video or section of this where you reconnect the shift rod? I dropped the lower without removing the cowling or the carbs but there’s even less access on the V4 than this and I can’t get the pin to align with the rod. Should the lower and the pin both be in the FWD position - neutral or reverse? Without h disassembly the only position that allows releasing the pin is forward. Half the time it gets knocked back down to neutral while installing the lower and I try to push it back up with pliers. To confirm, the bent portion of the rob faces forward too, yes? Is there a trick to reconnecting without partial disassembly of the cowling and carb? No detail is too much! Spent hours on this today.
Excellent video appreciate the content
Good video, great information just what I was looking for.
Glad the video helped you Jose.
very interesting.....great vid. Looks like your about to have a great time getting to and being at the Blues Festival. Might take you a few days to recover when you get back :)
Thanks Jim. Did enjoy the festival, but the ride probably even more. We were very lucky with the weather for a change!
Nice Video mate, you are very knowledgeable, I wish you were close to where I live so you could fix my engines.....hard to find good shops like yours around here.....I got a Johnson 90hp 1995 ocean runner, shift rod was so stiff that I could not change gears, I ordered new o-rings and gasket. the lower unit was lowered and got to the point of removing the casing screws and by little turning, pushing I was able to get the rod out but the casing is still attached to the rod, I am afraid of heating the casing and by looking at it it seems it'd be difficult to remove/insert the new o-ring..I cannot see it.....any chances you have a vid on how to do it?...or how push/slide the casing out of the rod?,,I have tried spraying BP, WD-40..oil.etc....overnight it... and yet it wouldn't move..
any advice would be greatly appreciated...thanks
Thanks mate. I think this video might go through changing the shift rod seal as well. I need to run now but check it out and let me know if you are still stuck. ua-cam.com/video/_PnpoEDPqMA/v-deo.html
Thank you mate...I finally got the enclosure out with some Blaster penetrating lubricant and lots and lots of "elbow" grease...lol, the orings inside the bushing were totally busted, hard and deformed...thanks one more time .I appreciate your response and your video...you are the best!
Glad to hear you got it sorted. :)
Thanks! This measuring works for 55 hp evinrude 1977 too? The number is 55773D
Very informative video. Could you please show what you are measuring off of, though? Or did I miss it?
- Joe
Nice work Stu!
Thanks Will, hope you are well. :)
Great video! Thanks for your help.
Question. I have adjusted the shift rod fine but still hard to engage the gears (shifting manually are fine). How to tell if the cable (or the housing) is too slacky? There is no visible damages or corrosion.
If my motor won't go in reverse, can I adjust the linkage without taking the bottom off?
Great stuff as usual.
Thanks John!
Your videos has helped me alot with my engines last years. Now I'm trying to find the measurements for shift rod to my evinrude 1987 long rig v6. What I find is 54 cm but it seams to be to low down in gearbox. The shift rod goes to far down and won't get reverse fully in. Do you know if 54 cm should be correct?
Unfortunately I'm not sure, I only have the service manual for this '97 model. When I was working on this one somebody mentioned in a comment below that it was important for the rod to be directly vertical when attached to the linkage, and that there was generally enough room to spin it while the gearbox was in place. Maybe this technique could help you get yours in the right place without knowing the exact measurement.
How many tanks to Byron and back on the 250 Stu ? Good journey mate...My longest on the old KLR250 was about 4 hours !! Well done mate...hope the Blues were smooth
I think I used about 4 tanks each way roughly, about 70 litres all up maybe. I've done plenty of long trips on that bike and it is surprisingly comfortable. One trip I videoed was through Bourke to the Birdsville races then down the Birdsville track to Lake Eyre then back past Menindee Lakes to Sydney. ua-cam.com/video/PmbHgDf0ekU/v-deo.html
Great tour mate..your single banger definitely looks more comfortable than mine did..Love the long rides though. Have to get back into it
STU.... thanks for all the vids, totally helping me out. Question for you... have you done, or know of a video that shows how to replace the shift rod from the upper unit? I have a 40hp Suzuki and noticed the barrel coupler was stripped and so was the shaft from upper unit. Thanks, and appreciate it. w
I don't have a video specifically on that yet, and it does vary greatly between different brands of outboard unfortunately. If you are referring to the shift rod attaching to the gear selector mechanism under the powerhead, often you do need to remove the powerhead to be able to get to it unfortunately.
Dangar Marine Thanks!
02 40hp Johnson shift push rod assembly
THANK YOUUUUUU!!! I think this will fix my problem! :)
You're welcome, good luck!
Could you please make a video of the 55 hp Evinrude took it apart to rebuild the water pump and put new gaskets and seals in the lower unit and now it won't go in reverse. Don't know the shift rod length. Model number 55773D please and thank you I would appreciate it.
Very helpful, thanks. question, what would be the measurement for 25" 1998 johnson 200hp V6 oceaanrunner? thank you again
Happy Easter mate
Thank Matt. :)
can you tell me what length SHIFT ROD is in a 1974 85 hp Johnson outboard and what the adjusted length is.thinks in advance
by Johnson
So I did this, and it sure feels sloppy on my shifting. It doesn’t always go back into neutral well from forward gear. I’ve adjusted the shift cable far but I think there is a lot of slop in the gearbox itself. What is the troubleshooting for this, and would it be a gearbox replacement after taking the gear cage out?
Another great video as always. I recently took my grandfathers old 30hp Merc out for a spin after its been sitting in the garage for a couple of years (I did all the basic prep) but out on the water after it'd been running for a while, when I went to neutral it'd stall and was very hard to restart. When it finally did restart, it'd stall when selecting gear. Any ideas where to start? I'm thinking carbys probably need taking off and cleaning right out?
Skit Dog I think it's not giting gass and it's clogged some where
My guess would be to start looking at the carbs, but I'd suspect a vacuum leak where it tends to lean out too much at idle. Have a look at all vacuum line for evidence of the tubing beginning to crumble apart and replace as necessary. If you are sure there are no other ways that excess air could be getting in, then go look at the carbs and try adjusting idle speed, then your low speed air-fuel mixture. I'm assuming that when you first started it up, it seemed to be fine, and once it warmed up it began to act funny? Oh, and are you sure the tank isn't contaminated? If it's rusty in there, a flake of rust or some crud may have gotten sucked into the supply line.... so check the tank and the supply line too.
Stan Patterson Thanks Stan, I'll have a look mate. Yes spot on, it's fine when it first starts but runs into problems after its warmed up a bit. Cheers.
I have a Johnson 140hp TXENS-G03125599 a 1993 engine, with a quick start,, the quick start will rev to around 1100 rpm every time I start it up,, but the quick start hold's the rev's up for nearly 3 minuets every time up!,, can this quick start be disabled by fitting in a switch? and if so,, how do I disabled it?,, thanks for any help you can offer me
I have a 2002 90 hp evinrude ficht E90fplsnf..do you know the measurement for the shit rod?
Hey mate how do I separate the gear shift joining bolt on a old Yamaha mariner it's siezed
Hey Stu Larry here from the U.S. I have a problem with a 1976 mariner 60 for what I can come up with it is a Yamaha Mariner 60 E or EL # 675 309763 it started out on a sailboat. most parts are obsolete here in US. thought maybe in Aussie land there may be cross references for parts. I cannot get the shift to work in neutral or reverse. prop will spin by hand it seems to be stuck in forward .Motor is not seized shift cables are free If I remove cable from shift box controller it ( the box works like it should) Got any ideas? and hey keep up the good work I really like the way you instruct concise, clear, and fun.
It could be jammed in the gearbox itself. I would take the gearbox off and try to move the shifter directly at the gearbox while someone slowly turn the prop. If it doesn't change gears then it will have to come apart and see what is going on inside.
Stu my motor is The Yamaha Mariner made for Mercury.They were first on market in AU. It is a 60 hp twin looks like the head of the monster in the Movie Alien. Very few made it to U.S . Mine came off a sailboat .(update) looks to be last year made which is 1981.Are you familiar with the 77-89 60 HP Mariner twin made in Japan? it has the rotating shift cam. Do I have to take off carbs to drop the lower unit or is there a way I can get it off otherwise. Any info would be appreciated . THX in advance Larry in TN U.S.A
Do a video on the bike (Suzuki?) that you are leaning on at the end! Looks like it is a smallish dual purpose? bike set up for some camping/ overlanding. Is it yours or a customers? I see ammo can/ storage peeking out please sh,ow how it (they?) are attached and that sort of thing :) Not a boat, but has a motor and I'm guessing it could handle SOME water crossings! LOL
Hi Mike, yes, that is my bike. I like going bike camping so that is mostly what I have it set up for. I've actually been toying with the idea of setting up a separate side channel for biking stuff, but in the mean time here is a video from when we went on a boys trip with that bike. ua-cam.com/video/PmbHgDf0ekU/v-deo.html This is from before the ammo boxes where were attached by grinding a groove in the head of some bolts and then welding them to the frame pointing out. I then drilled holes in the boxes and put lock nuts on the inside of them.
Mate , love ya vids helps alot. Got an issue finding shift rod height on my 89 Johnson 50 VRO. If u can help or advise would be greatly appreciated. Also looking for manual without getting ripped haha cheers mate!
Take a look on tradebit.com and readmanual.co
Hay my friend I got a 93 evinrude 50 ve50tletf I just rebuilt the gear case and it will not go in to gear with out a lot of force what do u think
So, what would you do if you set the proper shift rod height, put the lower unit on, and the pin from the remote control cable and linkage doesn't line up with the hole at the top of the shift rod by about 5 mm?
Do you lengthen the cable from the remote control?
Yes, the cable must be out of adjustment then.
What is the correct hight on a 1989 110 v4 Johnson outboard
Do by chance know the height for an 88 evinrude 40 hp? I can't find the manual online, so its hard to adjust. Thanks in advance.
I have a 2000 Johnson Ocean Pro 130. How would I determine the rod length?
It looks like that hole is even with the drive shaft,is that true?
My mariner outboard has 3 carburetors. If I have to replace the main jet in one of them, should I replace the other two?
It wouldn't hurt to keep the outboard running smoothly with even power on all cylinders. Having said that, if they are all the same size and clean it shouldn't be a huge problem to just do the one.
great video. easy fix.
Thanks mate, hopefully there is nothing more to this one, but time will tell.
If the motor shifts fine before taking the lower unit off for service (which is generally the case), I will screw the shifter rod all the way in and count the turns before taking it out. On reassembly, I will screw the shifter in all the way then back it out the same number of turns I counted in the first place. Voilà !
Actually, this is a wonderful topic when it comes to the large OMC outboards...I am trying to remember if you had the gearcase off while doing the powerhead rebuild. I'm wishing you had, but fearing you did not. In any event, one of the best indicators of proper shift rod height is looking at the vertical shift lever (the one that is too close to the carb) before removing the gearcase/powerhead. Yes, the prescribed shift rod heights are in the manual, but sadly not always accurate. The vertical shift rod should just that, completely vertical when in neutral, in most cases. I tend to wind the shift rod down one more turn after achieving the vertical setting to favor full forward gear engagement. Once noting shift rod orientation, I then pull the gearcase and measure the height. Hopefully, this setting is inline with the book spec, but I tend to stick with my setting regardless of what the book says. The problem with this set up is that shift rod adjustment is often inadvertently messed with while the gearcase/powerhead is off. Techs accidentally turn the shift rod without knowing it, then once the gearcase is back on, the adjustment is messed up. That shift rod cover is another source of trouble on later models, corrosion builds up inside that pocket binding shift rod movement. I have always questioned that silly design that actually traps salt water in and around the shift rod and bushing. www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1994&hp=175&model=E175EXARC&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Gearcase+-+Standard+Rot.-+20%26quot%3B%28150%26amp%3B175sl+Only%29+All+25%26quot%3B+ModelsWere items: 36 and 71 in place on this engine? If not, they should be. It is a good idea to fill that cavity full of grease to keep the salt water away from that shift rod and bushing slowing down the corrosion build up. Once the gearcase is back on, it is a good idea to have a look at the vertical shift lever again in neutral to see if it is properly oriented. Oriented just slightly aft is best to ensure full forward engagement. On some of the OMCs, the shift rod can be turned in or out while on the engine instead of removing the gearcase again. I'm trying to remember, it has been a few years, but that vertical shift lever might clear the carb if shifted into forward gear while trying to push the shift linkage in to release the pin. Nonetheless, it is surely easy to just remove that one carb. There are several other issues that cause shifting troubles, one of which is that darn shift interrupt switch. Sloppy/stiff cables, control box problems, sloppy engine shift linkages all contribute to these problems. Sounds to me like you have figured out what went wrong here, which like you say, is that you inadvertently messed with that shift rod while working on the engine. Again, this is a great topic, and one not understood or addressed by many techs. Keep in mind that every time that gearcase jumps/ratchets due to shift system problems, the clutch dog and gear lugs are being damaged. I cringe everytime I hear ratcheting while shifting on the OMCs, because I know this will eventually lead to expensive repairs that could have been avoided. Owners need to be educated in proper shift procedures and warn that ratcheting while shifting will lead to big trouble. Just one last note before I get tossed off my soap box. The driveshaft splines/oring must be properly serviced lubricated before gearcase installation. On this engine, the driveshaft oring seal is up inside the crankshaft so nothing can be done about it during routine servicing. But, on older engines, that oring should be replaced, and the splines must be cleaned and lubed with the OMC moly lube. Just ask any tech who has been faced with the problem of crank/driveshaft splines seized/corroded together. This is a big mess that usually requires destroying the exhaust housing or driveshaft in order to get the gearcase off. I'm hoping you will replace the water pump while the gearcase is off if you have not done that already. I'm sorry this engine is being such a bugger for you, they really are pretty nice engines. I don't know what to tell you about resealing the gearcase, proper seal installer tools really should be used. I'm hoping you will find some simple problem while pressure/vacuum testing, so you will not have to completely disassemble this unit. Again, this is a GREAT topic, and thankyou for posting it....
Hi mate, appreciate the benefit of your experience as always, I will be sure to check the orientation of the linkage when it is in place in neutral. The gear case was off in an earlier video before this was first launched, hence my opportunity to foolishly mess with the angle of the top of the linkage never having seen one before. I know that feeing you have when you hear the dog clutch grinding away, you can feel the damage being done. :( Also agree completely on the cleaning and greasing of the driveshaft splines. I haven't had one badly stuck in before but it'd certainly not something you want, particularly on boats you were the last to work on! I'll look into the seal installing tools as getting them in straight is critical. OEM tools as a bit tricky for me to get but finding a good set on universal ones is something I'll look into. I used bits of PVC pipe and sockets in the past but it is all a bit hit and miss. I think I am also going to need a custom too to get he bearing carrier out on this outboard compared to the puller I use on the Yamahas and Hondas. I'll look into that too. I hope I can buy one somewhere...
Stu I just removed the bearing carrier on a 2005 90 and I think they are the same design, no special tools needed just two 5/16-18 threaded rods and I used a steering wheel type puller, I was surprised how little force it took to remove, I hope u have the same luck
OK, well I sure hope the gearcase leak turns out to be something simple, like a damaged/doubled up drain/fill screw seal....That two piece driveshaft design makes it tough to evaluate leaks when pressure testing as well....
What is the measuring for the 55 hp evinrude 1977?
For shift rod
grate vid man👍
Thanks mate. :)
I just bought a 1979 150 Evenrude and it doesn't go into reverse at all and makes noises when trying to do so. Do you think this is the same problem? It goes into forwards no problem
I would certainly start by checking the shift rod is in the correct position. It may not be the problem, but it is the easiest things to start with.
Dangar Marine thanks for the reply. I took it apart and the shift rod was in the correct position so I put it back together and noticed some play in the linkage that controls the shift rod so I messed with it a little bit at the lake and got it so the reverse and forwards works without any grinding!!
Nice one, glad you got it fixed up. :)
Measuring and adjusting the length of an OMC shift rod EVINRUDE 50hp (BE 50 ESECC) mm-??? thank you so much, from Russia
Dangar Marine
-Hi Stu did you get my letter a couple of weeks ago?
I sent him a youtube PM weeks ago, must have gone into a spam folder or something.
Hi guys, sorry, not only do I almost never check private messages, six all up had gone into the spam folder. I'll check them out when I get home tonight.
Hi Callum, I had a look and I can't see a message from you there, not sure what happened to it.
Ah, Callum, the penny has just dropped, the photo threw me. I did, and I tried to send you an email a few times but they all bounced. I'll give you a call this week.
No worries Stu
Request a video on installing an outboard temperature gauge
I do have it on my list. Soon!
How do I buy your t shirts
Hi MIke, link is in the description of each video.
Ah the joys of OMC shift rods....to my mind the ruler/drill bit method works way better than the Evinrude tool which is just a pain to use and read correctly..and replacing the shift shaft o ring is a royal PITA too, so fiddly.
Hey Paul, it seemed to work okay, that's for sure. I'm not looking forward to changing that o-ring, I can see exactly what you are saying about it being fiddly.
Ugh, I have a lower unit off a 1976 I think, but an upper from 1980, won't go into reverse. Was this way when I bought it (70hp 3cyl), just skips and bucks in reverse. Setting it to the 1980 length doesn't work. 1976 setting is different
How are you determining the rod length on this model as long, extra long, extra-extra....?
Just measure the distance between where the motor rests on the boat transom and the cavitation plate (the large flat plate above the propeller) and compare it with the values given for your specific motor.
I have a 1993 Johnson 90hp just wanted to know if you know the shift rod measurement for it
Unfortunately I don't have the manual for that motor. Take a look on tradebit.com, you may be able to get it there.
Thanks I will check it out
Hey by any chance can anyone Find a shift cable height for an 1999 90hp Johnson i cant seem to find the height anywhere this answer will help so much thanks in Advance 🙏🏼
I'd like to find a full list of lengths and put it in the description for this video. I'll start adding the ones I already know today.
If it helps I'm resealing a 2005 Johnson 90 lower unit and I counted 6 turns to remove the shift rod
HI i HAVE BEEN WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS FOR AWHILE NOW COULD YOU HELP ME
i have had trouble now with 3 gear boxes, ONE REPLACEMENT SEIZE COSTING AFORTUNE TO BE RESCUED. REVERSE HAS BEEN A PROBLEM WILL NOT STAY ENGAGED. i have have a 1984 j60TLCRE I DO NOT KNOW HEIGHT OF GEAR SHAFT. i have checked the length In NUETRAL AND I HAVE SET THE SHAFT MID WAY BETWEEN FULLY ON OFF IT IS NEUTRAL 20 7/8IN. F-21-1/4 R-20 1/2 THANKS COLIN QLD BRISSY
Thanks Stu..nothing worse than a short shift rod..
I preferred shaft rod. ;)
Hi i would like khow if you would know how much millimètres for à shift rod of à engin evinrode v4 vro 1987 m'y frist time doing it thanks you
Unfortunately not, you'd need to find the service manual for that motor to get the spec.
I have a 88 johnson where can I find the rod length measurements measurement
100 hp thanks
You'd have to track down the service manual for that motor.
Good day. I'm from Russia. Now I repair boat motor Johnson 150 forces. 2 tact 1987 year. (J150stlcur). We in Russia do not have a manual for these motors. I extend my leg. I would like to know how to adjust the clearance of the main shaft. can you help?
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1987&hp=150&model=J150STLCUR
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1987&hp=150&model=J150STLCUR&manufacturer=Johnson§ion=Gearcase
Something got lost in translation. Do you talk about the Propeller Shaft (#18) or the Driveshaft (#35).
Driveshaft MAY need shim(s)(may need more than one of different sizes) (#43); may not.
What is this about your leg? Clearance from what?
Hi! Sorry for bad question on this video but I whant buy Brand new engine 60 hp and the question Its yamaha,Honda,Mercury Or? I think about Yamaha... can you help me whit choice? I will use engine in salt water ☺️
They are all pretty good. To me it always comes down to which dealer you feel is going to look after you the best in the future, and to some degree which dealer is closer to you if there is a big difference. It all comes down to after sale service.
"Everything is easier than you think it's gunna be, and nothing usually ever goes wrong" 😂😂😂. Have replaced impeller numerous times over the years with no problems. Gear rod is out of wack after this last attempt and after 15 up and downs, think it's going to the shop...
Learn as you go....
Always lots to learn, that's for sure.
Adds 10 secs in???
at this point just bye a new moter save you trouble
Where's the fun in that!
Yeah, I agree Stu, no challenge in that is there. LOL
Cheers.
The real reason you're not familiar with the Johnson/Evinrude brand is because they don't break down like the other brands do!
why didn't you look at the cable and shifter first. rookie
Is that genuine question or just you hurling abuse?
@@DangarMarine it’s a 2 part toxic mix. Technically abuse in question form.