Single Acting Hydraulic Cylinder tips for Oliver Tractors
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- It's a common question, what's the best way to make single acting cylinders work on my Oliver tractor. This covers most of the Charles City built models. I also open up the hydraulic cover and show how it works, and how to adjust it for best performance.
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As always, Thanks for watching!
I make those long restrictor caps by buying an off the shelf rod connector nut and welding one end shut. A little grinding and it looks exactly like the originals.
That would do the trick. Thanks for the tip!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris just a heads up some one is trying to scam people following your channel. Check the reply in the comment that I left .
@@welder78s7 thanks, I'll get right on it
I blocked them. The jerks even used my logo.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I seen that too. You have a good weekend.
Great video, I have a 1600 with a single acting cylinder. Now I know how to adjust the return with the 3-point arms will work
Thank you! I’ve been running a single acting cylinder on my 1550 following the method in the book. Turning that bolt by your right foot in and out is tedious and a pain. Now I need to see why one of my remotes only works in one direction. Your video is a great resource.
I'd start with the couplers, they can go bad. From there, I'd suspect the interlock spool is sticking. It could also be a hydraulic hose. I had one that had an internal bubble in the rubber that allowed hydraulic oil between the layers. One way the oil could get through, but the other way, it would fill that bubble and close off the hose. It looked fine from the outside. That was a head scratcher.
My experience with single acting cylinders and Olivers has been with my Hardi sprayer. It has a built in single acting cylinder that raises and lowers the boom height when you spray. I asked my Oliver mechanic buddy Joe about how to plumb the left side of the hydraulics of my Oliver 77 for a single acting cylinder and he pointed me to the shop manual, which showed a pretty easy to follow diagram. You did a very detailed explanation of this topic which I'm sure will be helpful to a lot of people with fleetlines, 3 digit series, 50 and 55 series tractors.
Shhh! If everyone read the manual, I'd be out of a job. LOL.
Thanks, Charlie!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Ooooops! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great information for future generations of Oliver owners. I learned most of this the hard way through trial and error before the internet. Thanks again on their behalf.
Chris, thanks for the video. You did a great job explaining the system. In fact, such a great job that I will just send my dad the link instead of driving over and adjusting the 1850 myself.
Cool!
You are a wealth of knowledge
Great explanation and demonstration.
Thanks!
Thanks for showing how Oliver hydraulics work and how to use, service and adjust them.
Was looking forward to using the content on our 1555
My 1850 has the cap nuts. They work great when you screw the screw in for double acting, but almost impossible to use with them screwed out for single acting, because there is no way to hold the screw from screwing back in when you install the cap nut. You end up having to install another jam nut to hold the screw, and then screw the cap nut on top of that.
I have to wonder why Oliver had the remote hydraulics like they did. All they had to do was have a float position on each spool (like almost all other brands have), then there would be no need to switch between single and double acting. The best modification I made was to add a Prince double acting with float valve to my power beyond circuit. Only thing I wish I had done was to got a dual remote, and I'd never use the factory remotes again. With the Pince valve I have a float position and can feather them up and down by moving the spool slowly, and not have to worry about adjusting restrictor vlaves. I also don't have to worry about the residual pressure raising the implement when in use. I love Olivers for the most part, but their factory remote hydraulics suck.
Wow that was hands-down a perfect explanation of that entire thing. I really could've used that 10 years ago when we were packing silage with the 1800, we had a blade on it just plugged into the remotes and it used to chatter when it was coming down violently. I would just Rev the tractor up like you said here, but then we would go to unload something off of a trailer with that same loader and it would be one of the most dangerous things you've ever witnessed haha
We had a no till drill come in that was too heavy for just the forklift, so we used that and the 1750 to lift it off the semi. That was a bit nerve wracking lowering the 1750 end of things.
Thank you for the video! I'll have to do a little plumbing on my 770 and give it a try. Looks like it'll be awhile before I'll be raking hay with it since it's been so dry here
Great tutorial...
Keep up the great videos...
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Now I know why my 1655 dose what it does. Lol I have a hesston 1410 and it tends to drift up. I do know that the hillier ground or rougher ground it will drift more. I do know that if you put the single action cylinder on the left side remotes the hydraulics will do goofy things .
Thanks for the video Chris good job of explaining the flow. I have flow charts from an Oliver service school that can be hung on the wall. I think I'll dig it out and rewatch this video. Have a blessed day
Hopefully I got it right. 👍
Pioneer also has a coupling that can be hooked up and unhooked under pressure They don't have a lever. They are only $40 a piece, I have them on my 1850 Wheatland and they work great. Thought I'd share my experience. Thanks for the info !
Pioneer 8250s don't have levers and do connect under pressure. Last set it bought eere more than $40 though
Another good training video
My 1555 has the external hydraulic valve setup. My OMC haybine (same as a Gehl) has single acting hydraulics and it works good. I never hear the relief when I lower but it might be weak anyways...
Hooray, it is Sunday again. The answer is simply the farmer complains and you have to tell him "Sorry, it is just the nature of the beast".
That's been my answer. When it starts coming up, push it back down. The whack a mole solution.
Oliver 7 bottom semi mount plow on a steffes auction. It is listed as a john Deere but it is an Oliver. It is on the hay trust auction. It is in nice shape and I am think someone needs to save it.
After note. I just realized this auction is 30 days later that I thought it was.
I'll look it up.
I knew you had to have a video on the restrictor. I am having issues with my cultipacker on my 1650 amd bouncing going down. I tried adjusting the restrictor and it didn’t work so I thought I had the wrong one. So now I’m not sure what I need to do. Will have to do some checking on it. I screwed the restrictor in as far as it would go and didn’t notice any difference. Hmm
You want the lift side of the cylinder going through the restrictor, that way when it is lowering the restrictor can slow that oil down. If you have it the other way, it won't be as effective. Also, those restrictors should be able to all but stop the oil flow when all the way in. So if your packer is still moving, something is not right in the restrictor. Or the hose aren't connected to the side you are adjusting.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thanks. I’ll check it out. I have it where pulling the lever back raises and pushing forward lowers. I’ll double check that closer now that i know for sure I have the right thing. Can the restrictor fail and just not work?
I've never heard of one failing, but most guys don't even mess with them. There's a spring and a plunger in there, the spring may have broke, or something might be wrong with the plunger. The whole assembly screws out with the hex nut that the adjustment screw comes out of. Amazingly enough, the screw and plunger are still available from Agco, but the spring is not.
Chris great video. But totally off subject I have a “1956” Oliver super 88 row crop and was wondering if you knew of anywhere I could get the center brake pedal or the design of it. Thank you
Justin Meyer has one, as well as many other Oliver parts. Give him a call 651-380-3892
Thank you so much. Very much appreciated
Thanks for the informative video Chris. Is there a way to add power beyond to the fleet line and 3 digit tractors. Grandpa is wanting to add a charrlynn power steering unit using power beyond rather than using the charlynn pump He has seen it once before but doesn’t remember how to do it.
There is, but I haven't made that video yet. It is covered in the service manual if you have one.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris okay I don’t think grandpa has any service manuals only the i&t and it doesn’t cover it that I have seen.
I'll try to get to that in the near future.
That could be a little more involved than just tying power steering into the power beyond port. On a open center system (which the Fleetline and 3 digits are) if you just plumb in you can only do one function at a time. This means if you are steering and say trying to raise the 3 point at the same time, one of them won't work properly (the oil will take the path of least resistance). That is why most power steering systems either use a sperate pump or a flow divider to the steering. My 1850 power steering uses a flow divider that sends the first few gpm to the power steering before it goes anywhere else, this assures you always have power steering.
@@m16ty , yes, he would need to add a flow divider to make it work properly.
Hello, I have a 1600 and the hydraulics were not working when I bought it. The street does not respond, hydra power did not function and the 3 point didn’t have the power to lift itself. We removed the hydraulic pump, it seems fine. We are stumped. I would love to ask you questions!!! I am also in Michigan. Is it possible to contact you?
Did your pto turn ok? The shaft that drives the pto also drives the hydraulic pump, and the splines where it meets the engine flywheel can wear out to the point where the shaft doesn't turn. Then you lose all hydraulics and pto. So if the pto works, that's one problem we can eliminate
That should say, steering does not respond. Autocorrect got me!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thanks for responding. I am sorry to say that I do not know if the PTO worked. We never checked it. We trailered it to our place and tore into it. The guy I got it from said that he would be driving it and suddenly the steering would just not respond. We noticed that the 3 point was so weak that it wouldn’t lift itself.
Have you pulled the filter? If they get dirty enough the hydraulic pressure will crush them down and block the passge.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris yes, we did pull the filter before we tore it down. Is it possible for the servo to cause the entire hydraulic system to fail? I also have a picture I would like to send you. This is the first time I have ever torn into a tractor and I am finding things that I don’t see in my shop manual.
It is much cheaper to just put ball valves in line with the couplers, especially when there are tons of 1/2 ball valves just laying around.
Thanks Chris!
I was under the impression that both the bypass valve and the interlock bleed screw had to be turned out to operate a single acting cylinder? So after watching your video it's one or the other? I made the adjustments to operate a case IH 950 corn planter. My only complaint is it would be nice if the planter lowered faster. I'm going to try some new coupler tips first before next season. Any suggestions on the tractor side to allow the planter to lower faster? This is on an early 1650 BTW
Thanks
I've done it without turning out the bypass screw and it worked.
Do you have that restrictor turned out? Couplers could be the problem. I'm assuming you have 1/2" hose?
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I didn't mess with the restrictor, it may be turned in some? I'll have to check that. To my knowledge this tractor never used a one way cylinder before. Actually the planter may have 3/8" hoses they seem too small to be 1/2". Thanks for the reply I'll definitely check that restrictor
The restrictor can't come out without pulling the whole assembly, so loosen the jam nut and turn it out until it stops, then tighten the jam nut. I did a service call on a 2-70, no pressure at the remotes. Someone had been adjusting screws and turn the restrictors all the way in, and they totally stopped the flow. So it can really slow things down if it's in too far.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris great info! Much appreciated
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Do you think that some hired hand decides that if you turn it a tiny bit, you turn it till it bottoms. Then when the problem is figured out, the hand throws up his hands and says "Not Me"
Chris, I have a question! My White American 80 has 3 set's of scv's, two for my loader and one set for my external. We normally use my son's tractor cutting on his Case IH 8309, which he has his loader off, with two set's of scv's. His cutter needs 1 set for the swing and another single for his raise and lower. His tractor lost power and was overheating and that forced us to use the White, which made me have to unplug my tip for the loader, when we run the cutter. Then, when we go to load hay, we have to unplug the tip and plug the point back in. What would you suggest for a cure if any? A lot of good information, some a little harder to understand, but I get most of the single action use for return flow. Thanks for the info, have a great remainder of Sunday and the rest of the week too.
The easiest solution is to get a hydraulic doubler. Ive got one I use, just pop it into the remote and run a wire to power it. There's also an electric switch you put wherever and flip that to switch between the 2 functions. I did a Google search for 'hydraulic doubler valve' and found several. They run around $500.
Another option would be to set up a power beyond, get a joystick valve for the loader and then all 3 remotes will be available for other functions.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Sounds like a good idea, I will have to look into it, thanks!
The nice thing about the solenoid doubler is it's easy to move to another tractor if you need it.
What would be the symptoms of a thermal relief valve being open?
I sent you a message the other day, about not having any pressure, won't even wiggle the needle on the gauge, at the flow divider,(priority valve). Illustration F1-115 in the Oliver Shop Manual. So no steering at all, but I have 2000psi at the remotes and 2000psi at the pressure relief valve. F1-108
The hydraulic pump is working, but there is not enough pressure to register on the gauge at the flow divider?
A thermal relief opened would mean no remote function on the side that had popped. Sounds like there is a stuck spool in your priority valve. I'd be tearing that down and making sure both spools move freely.
I'm not finding an email, did you use hpocachris@gmail.com?
I've had the priority valve apart twice can't see anything physically wrong.
I'm kinda stumped on this one. Do you happen to have another Oliver that you could swap priority valves with? Maybe something inside the casting gave up and is letting the pressure bypass.
I don't have another tractor. I had the whole thing apart and put in a new pump. I found no visible defects. I did have to replace the tube that drops the oil down in beside the pump so it doesn't foam.
Sorry I am on my way church and I don't have the book in front of me.
The way the oil flows, it goes through the flow divider/priority valve, the flow divider takes about 5 gpm of that flow and sends it to the steering, and the priority part shuts off the flow to the rest of the system if it is less than 5 gpm. The other spool in there lowers the pressure for the steering. So the oil is going through the flow divider or the remotes wouldn't work. It's not opening up to let the 5 gpm flow to the steering, or the pressure reducing spool is not letting any pressure through to the steering. Long story short, there must be something wrong in the priority valve.
I have a 1650 and the hydraulics dont work at a idle you have to bring the rpms up to around 1200 before they work is this normal
That's a good sign that the pump is getting worn out. The priority valve makes sure the steering gets the first 5 gallons per minute of flow and when the pump is worn that might be all it is making at an idle. Once you rev up the flow increases and the valve starts letting oil go to the rest of the system.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thank you
When about was a 415 sickle bar made? Also I found an Oliver 8 bottom pull tipe buy me sooooooooooooopooooooooooooo ima try buy iylt
Thr 415 was in the 1960s.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I found one close to me. Rely nice shape
Sweet
I just bought a 1750 and it won’t lift the tailgate on the round baler more then 1/3 of the way and it struggles just to do that. Would that be a valve issue or a pump issue?
It could be a coupler issue. Try reversing the hoses and see if that makes a difference. Does the 3 point and remotes work at low rpm?
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I’ve switched them around with no luck, the 3 point worked when I first brought it home now it won’t go down and the steering acts like it’s got air in the system
I've seen broken relief valve springs, you could screw that out and make sure nothing is broken. It's the large hex cap just to the right of the filter.
The priority valve always makes sure there is pressure to the steering to the point it will turn off the flow to the remotes and 3 point. So if you only have steering at low rpm and have to rev it up to get the rest to work, that is a real good sign your hydraulic pump is worn. That's probably what you're looking at.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thank you Chris! I greatly appreciate it
I see a large plug on that oil tank.. Can you connect a post pounder!?
Yes. On the left side, just above the rear of the plaform is a large plug. I think it's 3/4" pipe, might be 1". That returns to reservoir. You'll want to pump the oil down before pulling the plug. We had a post pounder on my 1550 and returned there, worked great.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris we always did the post pounder on our grandpa's 2030 john deere. It worked great as well. Options are always great with the tractors, for all types of work. Great for maintaining property and home steading..
Do you know where I could find old Ford gaskets and tork specks its a old Ford tractor
I know it not a Oliver but it isn't my tractor it's my friends
I wish I could help, but I have roughly zero experience with Fords. You might try Olson's Gaskets, they make gaskets for older tractors. www.olsonsgaskets.com/
Thank you
Please explain " power beyond " . That losses me , I've heard it , but nobody explains it .
Ross the Oliver Man did a power beyond video
It's a way to route hydraulic pressure out of the factory system to power other hydraulic functions such as a loader valve. The flow is then routed back into the factory system to power the remotes and 3 point, and finally back into the reservoir.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thank you .
@@dankreoger611 thank you .
Here is the most consaversial thing I have ever said, I think Herman is kind of overrated. He is cool but we see so much of him. I think we should see more 1550 coming because they’re are the coolest tractors ever.
Et tu, Eli?
Lol
1st
Sweet