It was really nice of you to fix that for him. Most people would not do that on an old tractor. When you were pumping that oil out it looked like Ross had been there…without his funnel of course 😂
Great video! We still use our 1550 on the farm and not many Oliver mechanics left so always learning how to keep the old girls going. Hands down one of the handiest tractors.
soab. i believe the same thing happened today on my 16. no steering, no remotes, no 3pt lift/drop, and pto still chuggin. was a pita driving back to the shed from the field. difference tho--when i shut off for a bit and restart, the hydraulics come back. lose them again after a couple minutes turning the steering and fiddling with remote levers. they go out with a very brief "whine" from either the unit or the steering valve. came out of nowhere--no prior hydraulic issues/weakness and plenty of oil. never had to pull a hydraulic unit from an Oliver yet, but you made it look easy aside from oil everywhere. trick is always putting it back together well enough to avoid getting a quick lesson 2.
It sounds like the same problem. If i removed the relief valve this one would get enough "traction" in the drive to pump some oil. Put the relief back in and nothing.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris i saw that--able to hold pressure back w ur fingertip! was surprised at the amount of rusty crud on&around what was left of the pump drive shaft on your 15. must be very low clean oil flow through there. mine has 5300h, 1500 w me. probably the original pump. creates some good timing tho--will probably replace the final input shaft due to spline slop/wear at the coupler. and check that gear oil pump chain in the final.
Thanks for the memories (cue Bob Hope's theme music). The pump striping in the gear was my first guess as we had seen it a couple or more times. I use Permatex Ultra and just a light smear. We started using an RTV that we bought from the GM dealer when they started using it for valve cover gaskets. The Aviation Permatex was also plenty good. In the oil field shop, one of the most common repairs was rebuilding the magnetos that were used on the pump jack motors. The impulse assembly would stick, which only required unscrewing the oil fill pipe assembly, squirting some gasoline down on the impulse, screwing the fill pipe back in, and then starting hand cranking. But there was another way and that was to use the crank to beat on the top of the magneto in hopes of jarring the impulse lever loose. Repeated hammering would dent the magneto housing in and crack it. Then when it rained water could leak into the magneto and stop its operation. When I had to repair magnetos I started coating the tops of the magnetos with a 1/4" layer of the GM RTV. It stopped the breaking of the magneto cases as it was stopping the pumper guys hammering by absorbing the blows from the crank handle. A simple fix that saved several hundred $$ a month and cut labor costs. Of course, some of the pumpers did not like having to remove the oil fill pipe and "gas the mag". They would try to peel the RTV off but found that labor-intensive and just "Gassed the mag" to get it to start impulsing.
RTV is handy stuff, when used in moderation. When he first sent me a video of the noise it was making I figured the idler gear bearing went out and the gear was bouncing around. Must have been the last of the splines giving up.
Hey I commented about two years ago about how I was restoring a 66 but now I have already restored that and a 77 and plan on restoring some other tractors that I would get money for so I can restore some more Oliver’s. I’m only 15
That's awesome! I was in my early 20s when my dad and I started restoring Olivers. I sure learned a lot about them in the process. I'm sure you have too.
Very interesting video. Last year, I noticed that my 1550 had a hard time picking up my White 5100 planter. I had to rev the engine to lift it with any speed at all. So, late last summer my Oliver mechanic friend Joe replaced the hydraulic pump. You are correct that the 1550 hydraulic pumps are not available. Joe put a 1650 pump in mine and like you explained, he had to change out that one gear to make it work. What a difference now. I enjoyed this video. I understand the process a whole lot better now. Had never seen it done. Thank you!
Great vid Chris. You're doing the right thing. Good to know there are still people out there that know what :the "right thing" is. Amazing engineering to make all that happen under your seat.
I done this to the neighbors 1650 it had striped the pump splines also . Great job on showing the diagnosis, knowledge is about learning 👌 from turkey creek farms be safe n thankful
Well you certainly called it Chris. I'd like to get me a working shop, I've done most of my work on tractors and equipment outside. I guess through the years I got the horse before the cart, or got the equipment before I had the shop to fix them. Good job on explaining each step, I followed along on each step. I have a Massey Ferguson 65 that I need to do some work on, you've inspired me to get it back up and running. It was down for several years, oh and it was my first tractor that I got when I bought some land. Thanks for the video, I hope you have a great week.
Hi Chris, really like your videos and teaching me about Olivers , mine are projects which I have trouble getting to lately, keep a eye out for that Rosssquatch.
Our friends have saw mill and we get the sawdust for floor dry i spill lots of oil tearing stuff apart that sawdust is the best floor dry ever then burns great nice job 👍
That's a great idea. I have this fantasy that I change oil and not a drop ends up on the floor. If it happens at this point in my life I think I'll hang up my hat knowing it will never get better than that moment.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris hey brother put new gear oil in rear and not getting 1655 got filter loose and fired off not getting oil at filter it should run constantly with imput shaft I thought it has no 3 point I want 2 upgrade it some kind of problem with no flow I got plenty time this winter to rebuild some stuff only turns half way left to but that pump is strong with dual hydraulics thanks for your imput I need hit few junk yards find some goodies
@@slickdoglong3669 most 1655s ran the lube pump off the back of the transmission counter shaft, so they will have lube pressure whenever the transmission is turning. Late ones were a chain drive off the pto drive line and had pressure whenever the engine is running. If you're not getting oil at the filter, I wouldn't run it more than necessary. The low range gear could sieze to the input shaft. As long as you keep it in low range, the part of the pattern with 1st and R1, you'll be fine moving it around. 3 point can be added on. You'll need a hydraulic unit and the lower shaft anchors and spring that go inside the rear end.
Right on brother I just got it home and stripped it down to see what's going on I'm going to pull top off and see what I got there was 1 front planetary center gear missing the rest looks great I found a gear and thrust washer I have only trailered it home then into shop pretty ruff ol gal it looks way better already with a bunch of fun stuff fenders completely shot lots of fun wrenching now I'm into getting up at 5 again might even rebuild gear box this winter thanks Chris
Hi, Chris. Nice to see your a diagnosis was right not look to bad to rebuild. I was wondering you was restoration on two other tractors did you put them off and outside until winter. Sure like to see them when done. Thx for the videos
what a timely video! i am going to do the hyd pump and lift cylinder on my 1555. so to up date my pump to the 1655 i will need a new gear with larger splines? any part numbers you have would be a great help thanks again chris for all your time and help.
The gear is a 155741A. It is the same in a 1600, 1650, and a 1655. The larger tractors use a helical cut gear, so those won't work. It's not available new, so you'll need to find a used one.
LIke others, how timely. I’ve been procrastinating for a couple of years on overhauling our 1550 hydraulics. Everything works fine, hence the procrastination. It just slobbers from every joint; the hydraulic levers, the rockshaft seals, the three-point leaks down in a couple of days, and blah blah. Then it becomes what all you do while you’re in there, how far do you go? Didn’t know a 1550 hydraulic pump was NLA but not surprised, I had assumed the 15xx and 16xx would be the same as so many other things are. Assume you just get more GPM with a 16xx pump?
Yes as it so happens I need to get my 1550 diesel hydraulic pump switched out I didn’t know that u could put a 1650 pump in its place good to know thanks
Hey Chris I watch your videos all the time and I enjoy watching all of them. I have a hydraulic problem with my 1650 gas. I had the whole top cover off to reseal everything and replace the hydraulic pump and do some updates to the servo valve. Put everything back together and went to check the hydraulic relief valve pressure and I am getting full pressure to the remotes(2000psi) when I go to raise the 3 point up. Not sure if there’s an o-ring blown out somewhere or what’s going on. If you have any suggestions I’d appreciate it. Thanks-Evan
So if I follow correctly, the remotes are energized when you raise the 3 point, even though you haven't moved the levers. That can happen when there is a heavy load on the 3 point, but just raising it with nothing on shouldn't do it. My guess is something is causing a restriction in the servo, and the back pressure is feeding into the remotes.
I forgot to mention that the 3 point does actually go up. Just when I move the 3 point quadrant back it builds pressure on the remotes and puts a load on the pump until the 3 point is raised all the way up then the load goes away.
I took the servo valve out and took it apart and found the pin for the lowering spool had a chunk broke off of it. Installed a new pin and checked all the spools and everything seemed to move good. Put it back together and still does the same thing. Could it be something with the flow divider valve. Power steering seems to work great. Gauge doesn’t move when I use the steering. I only have remotes on the LH side of the tractor but when I move the RH lever I’ll get pressure to the LH remote. It really has me scratching my head lol.
The 3 digits are quite a bit different. The long shaft from the engine goes right through the pump to drive it. You have to pull it that shaft to take the unit out, but once it is out the pump is on the bottom of the unit and easy to get to.
Thanks Chris 😉 I did know that but had an attack of CRS. The pump has a seal on each side to seal the shaft then correct? Your videos sure make a guy think, and demonstrate what Ross mumbles about somedays🤣🤣
That'll teach you to sell a tractor… It's supposed to be Loseys home for wayward Olivers.. haha although if there was anybody I would completely trust buying a tractor from it would be yourself
Nah the main reason is because you use one battery in between all the tractors so the chance of buying something from you that has battery box corrosion damage is pretty unlikely
In 1956 my dad bought a Oliver super 77 it's still on the family farm my brother did a complete over haul on it but it start right up and runs for 45 minutes then dies and won't restart do you have any guesses why
You can't get one for the 1550 any more. Good news is if you get a pump gear from a 1650 or 1600, you can put the 1650 hydraulic pump in. Those are available aftermarket. Agpartsfirst.com has the pump as well as the gaskets that you'll need, give them a call. The pump gear you'll have to find used. Maibach tractor might have the gear, and they will definitely have the pump and gaskets. I found the gear for this 1550 on eBay. The part number is 155741A. Some sellers don't list the part number, so searching can take awhile to get the right one. LaGesse Tractor might have one. Google any of those names and you'll find their contact info
@ThatOliverGuyChris well if you wouldn't mind me asking some questions so my grandpa is getting pretty old and wanting to retire but I aint got the capital or money to take it over was wondering how yall did that I've looked into fsa thank you
@@Rossandhinklefarms the FSA is a good place. They have programs to help young farmers get started, and I think that includes loans. Having someone that is willing to cosign on loans is a big plus, but not always an option. It's a tough business to get into, but I hear about young people doing it. Would your grandfather be willing to set up some kind of payment plan? That's the easiest loan to get. Just put it in writing
@ThatOliverGuyChris he was talking about him keeping the note of equipment and I pay him yearly for the equipment to farm his 1000 acre farm but the only issue is getting the money to put crops into the ground and I've never had my name on any of the leased land to show I've been managing a farm even tho I've helped him most my life doing it so I wasn't thinking fsa would fund me
@@Rossandhinklefarms I have a line of credit through Greenstone Farm Credit for such things. As the name implies, they specialize in farm credit and understand the business better than most banks. I don't know if they are in your area, but they would definitely be a good place to look into.
@@larryfrey1283 I don't think there is physically enough room for the 55 series closed center pump on the front of that unit. A guy would have to do some measuring to see what might fit, and then getting the same shaft splines could be a challenge. There's lots of pumps out there, but finding just the right one might take some time.
I'm kinda spoiled because I have auxiliary closed center on my 1600 and it sure would be nice to figure out a way to reto fit my 1850 to use on my tye drill. When you can engineer a system please bless us all with a video
It was really nice of you to fix that for him. Most people would not do that on an old tractor. When you were pumping that oil out it looked like Ross had been there…without his funnel of course 😂
😂😂😂 Ross works over nature's oil dry.
Chris so did your wife check you to see if you was an impostor when you sold the tractor? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 thanks Michael
😂😂😂 I think cashing the check blinded her to the fact that I was really a clone.
Great video! We still use our 1550 on the farm and not many Oliver mechanics left so always learning how to keep the old girls going. Hands down one of the handiest tractors.
They are. The transmission looks great in this one, but the spur gear transmission was always reliable setup.
I love how some people are experts at "boogering" things up! LOL
As a friend recently told me, some guys could break a crowbar in a sandbox.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. You make the difficult look easy. 👍
Thanks!
Love your repair videos and the way you cover how each part operates/functions
Thank you!
soab.
i believe the same thing happened today on my 16.
no steering, no remotes, no 3pt lift/drop, and pto still chuggin.
was a pita driving back to the shed from the field.
difference tho--when i shut off for a bit and restart, the hydraulics come back.
lose them again after a couple minutes turning the steering and fiddling with remote levers.
they go out with a very brief "whine" from either the unit or the steering valve.
came out of nowhere--no prior hydraulic issues/weakness and plenty of oil.
never had to pull a hydraulic unit from an Oliver yet, but you made it look easy aside from oil everywhere.
trick is always putting it back together well enough to avoid getting a quick lesson 2.
It sounds like the same problem. If i removed the relief valve this one would get enough "traction" in the drive to pump some oil. Put the relief back in and nothing.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris i saw that--able to hold pressure back w ur fingertip!
was surprised at the amount of rusty crud on&around what was left of the pump drive shaft on your 15.
must be very low clean oil flow through there.
mine has 5300h, 1500 w me. probably the original pump.
creates some good timing tho--will probably replace the final input shaft due to spline slop/wear at the coupler.
and check that gear oil pump chain in the final.
Thanks for the memories (cue Bob Hope's theme music). The pump striping in the gear was my first guess as we had seen it a couple or more times. I use Permatex Ultra and just a light smear. We started using an RTV that we bought from the GM dealer when they started using it for valve cover gaskets. The Aviation Permatex was also plenty good.
In the oil field shop, one of the most common repairs was rebuilding the magnetos that were used on the pump jack motors. The impulse assembly would stick, which only required unscrewing the oil fill pipe assembly, squirting some gasoline down on the impulse, screwing the fill pipe back in, and then starting hand cranking. But there was another way and that was to use the crank to beat on the top of the magneto in hopes of jarring the impulse lever loose. Repeated hammering would dent the magneto housing in and crack it. Then when it rained water could leak into the magneto and stop its operation. When I had to repair magnetos I started coating the tops of the magnetos with a 1/4" layer of the GM RTV. It stopped the breaking of the magneto cases as it was stopping the pumper guys hammering by absorbing the blows from the crank handle. A simple fix that saved several hundred $$ a month and cut labor costs. Of course, some of the pumpers did not like having to remove the oil fill pipe and "gas the mag". They would try to peel the RTV off but found that labor-intensive and just "Gassed the mag" to get it to start impulsing.
RTV is handy stuff, when used in moderation. When he first sent me a video of the noise it was making I figured the idler gear bearing went out and the gear was bouncing around. Must have been the last of the splines giving up.
Hey I commented about two years ago about how I was restoring a 66 but now I have already restored that and a 77 and plan on restoring some other tractors that I would get money for so I can restore some more Oliver’s. I’m only 15
That's awesome! I was in my early 20s when my dad and I started restoring Olivers. I sure learned a lot about them in the process. I'm sure you have too.
Very interesting video. Last year, I noticed that my 1550 had a hard time picking up my White 5100 planter. I had to rev the engine to lift it with any speed at all. So, late last summer my Oliver mechanic friend Joe replaced the hydraulic pump. You are correct that the 1550 hydraulic pumps are not available. Joe put a 1650 pump in mine and like you explained, he had to change out that one gear to make it work. What a difference now. I enjoyed this video. I understand the process a whole lot better now. Had never seen it done. Thank you!
Thanks Charlie!
Where can a man get a replacement pump for the 1550 ?
Great vid Chris. You're doing the right thing. Good to know there are still people out there that know what :the "right thing" is. Amazing engineering to make all that happen under your seat.
Thanks.
I done this to the neighbors 1650 it had striped the pump splines also . Great job on showing the diagnosis, knowledge is about learning 👌 from turkey creek farms be safe n thankful
Great information and views we got couple days of rain lately miami County Ohio
We have had off and on (more on, as Ross the Oliver Man would say) Very little harvesting going on in Michigan.
Thanks for sharing ,i can remember doing all of that kind of stuff.
Well you certainly called it Chris. I'd like to get me a working shop, I've done most of my work on tractors and equipment outside. I guess through the years I got the horse before the cart, or got the equipment before I had the shop to fix them. Good job on explaining each step, I followed along on each step. I have a Massey Ferguson 65 that I need to do some work on, you've inspired me to get it back up and running. It was down for several years, oh and it was my first tractor that I got when I bought some land. Thanks for the video, I hope you have a great week.
Thanks!
Very glad you made this video, I have a 2-70 diesel and one set of my remotes only goes up. Seeing how the linkages are is a major help. 😁
It's pretty easy to miss the roll pins on the spools when putting the cover back on. A little lift up and try again is usually all it takes.
Hi Chris, really like your videos and teaching me about Olivers , mine are projects which I have trouble getting to lately, keep a eye out for that Rosssquatch.
It's getting that time of year when the hunters drive the RossSquatch out of the woods. 😂
Our friends have saw mill and we get the sawdust for floor dry i spill lots of oil tearing stuff apart that sawdust is the best floor dry ever then burns great nice job 👍
That's a great idea. I have this fantasy that I change oil and not a drop ends up on the floor. If it happens at this point in my life I think I'll hang up my hat knowing it will never get better than that moment.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris hey brother put new gear oil in rear and not getting 1655 got filter loose and fired off not getting oil at filter it should run constantly with imput shaft I thought it has no 3 point I want 2 upgrade it some kind of problem with no flow I got plenty time this winter to rebuild some stuff only turns half way left to but that pump is strong with dual hydraulics thanks for your imput I need hit few junk yards find some goodies
@@slickdoglong3669 most 1655s ran the lube pump off the back of the transmission counter shaft, so they will have lube pressure whenever the transmission is turning. Late ones were a chain drive off the pto drive line and had pressure whenever the engine is running. If you're not getting oil at the filter, I wouldn't run it more than necessary. The low range gear could sieze to the input shaft. As long as you keep it in low range, the part of the pattern with 1st and R1, you'll be fine moving it around.
3 point can be added on. You'll need a hydraulic unit and the lower shaft anchors and spring that go inside the rear end.
Right on brother I just got it home and stripped it down to see what's going on I'm going to pull top off and see what I got there was 1 front planetary center gear missing the rest looks great I found a gear and thrust washer I have only trailered it home then into shop pretty ruff ol gal it looks way better already with a bunch of fun stuff fenders completely shot lots of fun wrenching now I'm into getting up at 5 again might even rebuild gear box this winter thanks Chris
@@slickdoglong3669 I've got a video on rebuilding the 1855 transfer case, it's almost identical to the 1655.
great timing on this video, I am in the process of doing this on my 2-70, thanks
Glad it helped
Hi, Chris. Nice to see your a diagnosis was right not look to bad to rebuild. I was wondering you was restoration on two other tractors did you put them off and outside until winter. Sure like to see them when done. Thx for the videos
They got moved to another building so we could have my daughter's graduation party in my shop. They'll be getting moved back in the near future.
Hey, since you're in the selling mood, how about selling me the 2050? 🤣
😂 The selling mood came and went a few months ago.
Dang it!
I have a 2150 with 3 point problems and hydraulic issues. At least i now know where to start . Thanks
Other than size, it's the same system
what a timely video! i am going to do the hyd pump and lift cylinder on my 1555. so to up date my pump to the 1655 i will need a new gear with larger splines? any part numbers you have would be a great help thanks again chris for all your time and help.
The gear is a 155741A. It is the same in a 1600, 1650, and a 1655. The larger tractors use a helical cut gear, so those won't work. It's not available new, so you'll need to find a used one.
LIke others, how timely. I’ve been procrastinating for a couple of years on overhauling our 1550 hydraulics. Everything works fine, hence the procrastination. It just slobbers from every joint; the hydraulic levers, the rockshaft seals, the three-point leaks down in a couple of days, and blah blah. Then it becomes what all you do while you’re in there, how far do you go? Didn’t know a 1550 hydraulic pump was NLA but not surprised, I had assumed the 15xx and 16xx would be the same as so many other things are. Assume you just get more GPM with a 16xx pump?
Yes, more gpm with the 1650 pump. They both have a relief pressure of 2050 psi
Yes as it so happens I need to get my 1550 diesel hydraulic pump switched out I didn’t know that u could put a 1650 pump in its place good to know thanks
Glad I could help
Hey Chris I watch your videos all the time and I enjoy watching all of them. I have a hydraulic problem with my 1650 gas. I had the whole top cover off to reseal everything and replace the hydraulic pump and do some updates to the servo valve. Put everything back together and went to check the hydraulic relief valve pressure and I am getting full pressure to the remotes(2000psi) when I go to raise the 3 point up. Not sure if there’s an o-ring blown out somewhere or what’s going on. If you have any suggestions I’d appreciate it. Thanks-Evan
So if I follow correctly, the remotes are energized when you raise the 3 point, even though you haven't moved the levers. That can happen when there is a heavy load on the 3 point, but just raising it with nothing on shouldn't do it. My guess is something is causing a restriction in the servo, and the back pressure is feeding into the remotes.
I will take the servo out and take a look at it. I will keep you updated with what I find. Thanks Chris!
I forgot to mention that the 3 point does actually go up. Just when I move the 3 point quadrant back it builds pressure on the remotes and puts a load on the pump until the 3 point is raised all the way up then the load goes away.
@@evangill8433 it sounds like some kind of restriction in the servo valve. Maybe a sticking spool.
I took the servo valve out and took it apart and found the pin for the lowering spool had a chunk broke off of it. Installed a new pin and checked all the spools and everything seemed to move good. Put it back together and still does the same thing. Could it be something with the flow divider valve. Power steering seems to work great. Gauge doesn’t move when I use the steering. I only have remotes on the LH side of the tractor but when I move the RH lever I’ll get pressure to the LH remote. It really has me scratching my head lol.
I'm in shock you sold one are you sick? 😂
I'm going to get tested. My accountant is never going to believe it either. 😂
Are the 3 digit hydraulic systems similar, just kinda the other way around? Someday there will be a running 770 around here😊
The 3 digits are quite a bit different. The long shaft from the engine goes right through the pump to drive it. You have to pull it that shaft to take the unit out, but once it is out the pump is on the bottom of the unit and easy to get to.
Thanks Chris 😉 I did know that but had an attack of CRS. The pump has a seal on each side to seal the shaft then correct? Your videos sure make a guy think, and demonstrate what Ross mumbles about somedays🤣🤣
👍👍👍
Thanks!
That'll teach you to sell a tractor… It's supposed to be Loseys home for wayward Olivers.. haha although if there was anybody I would completely trust buying a tractor from it would be yourself
Because I have insane sense of responsibility? 😂
Nah the main reason is because you use one battery in between all the tractors so the chance of buying something from you that has battery box corrosion damage is pretty unlikely
@@Adam_Poirier 😂😂😂
In 1956 my dad bought a Oliver super 77 it's still on the family farm my brother did a complete over haul on it but it start right up and runs for 45 minutes then dies and won't restart do you have any guesses why
I'd replace the coil. When they go bad they will work when cool, but once they warm up they stop working. Let it cool off and it works again.
Did you upgrade the elbow for the rockshaft releif to schedule 80?
I have the new elbow, just need time to work on it again.
Don't let OSHA see the hook on that hoist!! They would just have kittens.
And maybe a couple of puppies.
Can I put a 1750 pump in my 1650?
Planning on a winter project
Yes.
Chris where can I find a replacement pump for a 1550 ?
You can't get one for the 1550 any more. Good news is if you get a pump gear from a 1650 or 1600, you can put the 1650 hydraulic pump in. Those are available aftermarket. Agpartsfirst.com has the pump as well as the gaskets that you'll need, give them a call. The pump gear you'll have to find used. Maibach tractor might have the gear, and they will definitely have the pump and gaskets. I found the gear for this 1550 on eBay. The part number is 155741A. Some sellers don't list the part number, so searching can take awhile to get the right one. LaGesse Tractor might have one. Google any of those names and you'll find their contact info
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thank you sir .
Hey i was wanting to ask you if you farmed all your life or retired then started to farm
I'm the 4th generation on my family farm.
@ThatOliverGuyChris well if you wouldn't mind me asking some questions so my grandpa is getting pretty old and wanting to retire but I aint got the capital or money to take it over was wondering how yall did that I've looked into fsa thank you
@@Rossandhinklefarms the FSA is a good place. They have programs to help young farmers get started, and I think that includes loans. Having someone that is willing to cosign on loans is a big plus, but not always an option. It's a tough business to get into, but I hear about young people doing it. Would your grandfather be willing to set up some kind of payment plan? That's the easiest loan to get. Just put it in writing
@ThatOliverGuyChris he was talking about him keeping the note of equipment and I pay him yearly for the equipment to farm his 1000 acre farm but the only issue is getting the money to put crops into the ground and I've never had my name on any of the leased land to show I've been managing a farm even tho I've helped him most my life doing it so I wasn't thinking fsa would fund me
@@Rossandhinklefarms I have a line of credit through Greenstone Farm Credit for such things. As the name implies, they specialize in farm credit and understand the business better than most banks. I don't know if they are in your area, but they would definitely be a good place to look into.
If you run an auxiliary pump on the other side through a different valve could you then have closed center hydraulics?
Yes, if the pump you used is a closed center pump.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris so a 55 series pump could be an auxiliary but would not fit on the inside
@@larryfrey1283 I don't think there is physically enough room for the 55 series closed center pump on the front of that unit. A guy would have to do some measuring to see what might fit, and then getting the same shaft splines could be a challenge. There's lots of pumps out there, but finding just the right one might take some time.
I'm kinda spoiled because I have auxiliary closed center on my 1600 and it sure would be nice to figure out a way to reto fit my 1850 to use on my tye drill. When you can engineer a system please bless us all with a video
what brand and model is that drill operated pump?
I got it off Amazon. Here's a link
amzn.to/45USFHF
How could you sell a 1550 and not to me!!! I better see that utility under restoration right after the 1855!!
I figured this would get you to comment. 😂 if I sold it to you, I wouldn't be fixing it right now.
RTV Ruins Tractors Vigorously .
Ross
Turns
Violent
@@ThatOliverGuyChris That happened long ago lol