That was the best explanation of oliver 50 series hydraulics. That will help alot of people. It took me years of trial and error to figured all that stuff out. 👍👍
I've been trying to figure this out for a year researching online. I couldn't figure out what was right and what was a hack. Not anyone in Florida to go to for help.
Don't have any Olivers here anymore, but I enjoy these tech videos very much. I know you commented on other ones that these don't get the views, probably the case for most of the public watching, but alot of us do appreciate them very much, please continue with them! Thanks, I am sure they will help alot of us in the future.
I don't plan on stopping them. I find it interesting that the type of videos I started the channel for are typically my least watched. Lately that trend seems to be changing and the repair videos are doing well. I'm really impressed with how well this one has done already.
Beautiful 1650 there. I have one too hope to get it looking that good again. Glad to see someone else added more lights to it like i am on mine just got a set of oem oliver light housings for it. the hydraulics on mine are no where near as quiet when you deadhead them, mine almost growl, that one is a whine like every other tractor I've ran, until now thought it was just an Oliver thing or the hydraulic pump was just tired. Still has plenty of power, steers easy, and as long as youre not deadheading them theyre reasonably quiet.
That power beyond in the loader valve keeps the back pressure off the seals . should remain leak free for a long time. I've seen guys blow the side out of the valve working the tank line at pressure! Prince is a very good quality valve,you may have to replace linkage on the joystick if it gets a lot of use!
I really like that valve. It can be open or closed center, with power beyond, has a built in adjustable relief valve, float on the one valve, and made in the USA. I took it out and pushed some brush back along a field, and it is so much smoother than using the remotes, and easy to run with the joystick. I'm thinking I need to switch my 1750 to this setup.
Good explanation of the hydraulic system. That tractor will be nice with all those upgrades. When we bought our 2-70 there was a piece of plastic from an oil jug that was plugging the steering.
Years ago when dad got our loader, he used, bent Quicke that was off a Deere. So, dad took it to an industrial welder not too far away and he modified thw mounts to fit the Massey Ferguson and fixed the loader to a state that was probably better then new(the only way to tell his welds from the factory is his welds don't have paint). But he hooked up the hydraulics up a bit goofy so the loader worked fine untill the system warmed up, then it stopped working. So a few phone calls later the dealer that originally sold the tractor said "bring it here, we think we know what's up". So an hour in the shop and a few fittings latter the loader is working perfectly. Swear that the loader was one thing that you wonder what you ever did with out!
From a novice standpoint this is a very informative video. You should be a teacher you made a complicated system easy to understand. Visually it seemed like that bucket wasn’t big enough for the loader.
Careful with those reducers, I've snapped so many of those things. For stubborn plugs, I use a similar method except, I'm using break over bars, no ratchets, no reducers. Water in the hydraulic oil? Looks milky. You're right about the bucket control, it's backwards but, if he likes it that way... Oliver's the most easiest, simplest of all tractors to work on. Cheers :)
Watching this reminds me of an event when I was young. Around 1976 my dad worked for a White dealer driving their over the road semi. They had another small semi with a wet line that they used to pull a roll off trailer. This truck was down so they had my dad deliver a couple tractors with his truck pulling the roll off trailer. The problem was his truck did not have a wet line to run the trailer. I was about 10 years old and I went with him. We hooked hoses from the trailer to one of the tractors and used the tractor hydraulics to roll the trailer back. We unloaded the tractors and then hooked the hoses to the other tractor to roll the trailer back on. I was sitting in the seat holding the remote lever while dad was running the levers on the trailer. The reservoir on the tractor I was on got too full and blew off the fill cap and blew oil all over me and all over that tractor. Dad thought it was pretty funny. I didnt think so at the time. lol
Tat reminds me of when I bought my 2255. I had sold our semi with wet kit, but still had the Landol trailer. I hired a neighbor to haul the trailer and took a long set of hoses we had, coupled up to the 2255 and used it to roll and tilt the trailer and get the tractor loaded. I didn't get an oil bath, though!
Oops! Funny now, but not at the time. Reminded me of a time I was checking engine oil on jet engines. The quicker we got it done, the sooner we could go back to drinking. I opened the cap on one engine that was still winding down. It was off but still rotating. I took a nice shower with very warm jet engine oil.
Wow this was awesome thank you for taking the time to do this! I run a loader on my 1800FWA but just a plow blade for packing trench silo and snow removal etc. It’s always been off the remotes but want to add power beyond. I never completely understood the entire hydraulic unit until I watched this video thanks again. Very impressive your knowledge on these things Chris. The tractor has always steered hard, I always just thought because I have large tires on the front and it had the steering motor that wasn’t that good. Maybe it’s some thing else
Power beyond is a different setup on the 1800. I was recently trying to help someone with an 1800 C, and I haven't been able to figure that one out. The A and B have provisions, but you have to pull the entire hydraulic unit to put a plug in the housing. My 1800 FWA steers easy, you might need to shim that relief valve in the priority valve body to get the pressure up.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris it’s funny because I just got back inside. I went out to look at my tractor after watching the video, and yes your right it does look different. I think you are right on the relief valve needing shimmed up. I notice the hydraulics chatter a little when I steer left and right, especially if I steer all the way one direction.
You might want to check the system pressure as well. Alan had someone else put a hydraulic pump in this before he knew me very well, and the system pressure was only 1,100 psi. Once I got that back up to the 2,050 psi the steering was much better. I should have made a video on that, but didn't have the gopro in the shop that day.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris That’s a good idea I will do that. I’m going to get it in the shop this winter. I’ve had a little bit of trouble with engine oil in the radiator, it’s probably time for another head gasket but I really think it needs the block decked. I keep procrastinating on the whole project because if I bring it into the shop I really want to go through and fix everything. It’s hard to justify the time because we don’t use the tractor anymore I do a little bit of work around the yards with it, but it will never have to work hard again. My dream is to completely restore it, as it really is not in very rough condition right now to begin with. Someday..
I am 99% sure the tractor is pretty much original I don’t think anyone has even touched the hydraulics. I suspect if anything the pump could be getting tired like you said in the video. I think the most disassembly that tractor has seen has been engine work over the years.
Very informative Chris. Our JD 4020 loader tractor that we use to own was set up this way as well. We always called it being plumbed in live. The part that we liked about it was that it kept the hydraulic remotes free for other jobs. I really like the joy stick we have in our New Holland now it is in a very handy spot. I always got a sore bag with the old loader tractor as it had three separate levers to run it and they were at the front of the cab. However they always worked when you pushed on them. The only down side to the joy stick we have now is that it has a computer in it. It went out this spring and it cost $600 for the new one.
I'm seriously considering doing this on my 1750. The ease of use, the smoothness of the valve, plus having the remotes open make it very tempting. The new valve was about $350, most everything else is already there. My loader is a quick attach, so having the hydraulic couplers up front would make it easier to move remove as well. Not that I do that very often. Lol.
Just watched Paul's latest video. I'm kind of surprised you guys don't use the skid steer for more loader chores. We loaned our skid steer out to a customer years ago while their skid steer was in for service. Boy did I learn to appreciate that Gehl during that time!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris We would use it more often if it stayed here full time. Our cousin Matt owns half of it so we get to share the use of it. Someday we need to sell our half out and buy our own.
Wonderful video. Great tutorial which I must watch again.. The plug that was giving you trouble with the ratchet and the pipe, when you had help hit the socket wrench at the same time may help.. Great video... 👍👍
Great video Chris. I still have a 1810 loader here that I adapted a Westendorf quick attach system on 40 years ago and replaced the bucket with a John Deere 7' bucket. Also had a set of forks, bale spear, and a bale hugger that I adapted to the quick attach. Seems that I had to plumb my 1855 a little different than you did. If I am not mistaken my 1855 has a closed hyd. system on it.
An automotive machine shop showed me a trick on getting out those stuck pipe plugs. Just heat the plug itself red hot and then allow it cool completely. Then it will come out with your fingers.
Great and informative video. I can't help but think maybe you should put a protective sleeve around that hydraulic line. Something to deflect a potential leak. Would hate to have it spray oil right under your leg. Otherwise great!
I like watching u I learned a lot u Im rebuilding my power steering under radiator oil all over place grease front wheel. Give me 1750 some love. Thanks i learned a lot from u.
Great video Have a 1550 with 1710 loader Dad just used tractor remotes for loader functions back in 1968, I've heard of the power beyond option and have read about it, But your video really simplified it , Our steering isn't what it should be ,if I test pressure and's it's low will I need to add shim's? I worked in a sugar factory for 36 years, When it come's to pipe fitting's try to tighten before you use heat, It works 90 % of time. Keep up the good work, Enjoy learning more about my tractors. My brother and I have a 1550g, 1555g loader special 1650g and a 1850d Wheatland . And several Whites a 2-105, 2-135 , 185, 6175 and a 6195. All but 1650 are used on regular basis, That's the tractor I learned to plow on when 6-7 years old.
Great video. Question, why didn’t Oliver use a detent on the hydraulic valves? I know on the early series they had the electric system but in the newer series that wasn’t there. I just like being able to raise at the end without holding the lever.
They did have a detent option, but it wasn't as common as the hydra lectric option. The 00 and 50 series hydra lectric worked just like the earlier system on the Supers and 3 digit tractors. So many had the wires snipped off you wouldn't know they were hydra lectric back in the day..
Same here. Only ones I've ever seen break are the ones Oliver put on the 3 point lift cylinder relief valve from the factory. Bad part about that one is you have to pull the hydraulic unit to fix it. Maybe I should start a betting pool on how long before someone points out those street elbows! LOL
Hey Chris I’m having trouble determining where the restrictor is for the remote hydraulics on my 1650. I have a cultipacker hooked up and when I let it down it does a lot of jumping. I’m sure there is a restrictor like on my white but I don’t know where it is. Any info on that?
Alan is a lucky guy lol. That tractor looks and sounds great! Really nice job guys. How much for me to throw mine on a truck headed to Losey’s home for wayward Olivers so you can breathe some new life into it 😄
@@ThatOliverGuyChris yes that’s a great running tractor. Alan must really like it. Trust me if something bad ever happened to me where I couldn’t keep my tractor around anymore I would be getting in touch with you to send it your way to a new safe home . Have a great night !
Thanks for taking the time to make a video on 50 series hydraulic systems. I have worked on a few had a basic knowledge of it. You explained it really good. When you replace those gear pumps what brand do you use?
Last one I replaced was the one in Herman, and I was lucky enough to find a nos Vickers pump for that. I go to my Agco dealer or one of the aftermarket places that specialize in Oliver so it's right the first time.
Why would my three point not work after doing this. Pretty sure followed the directions to a t. Loader works great, three point won’t lift now? Always was strong before?? Any help is appreciated
I don’t believe so have plugged them in yet. Three point will go down if tractor revs but won’t pick up with me standing on it. Loader works excellent, steering works, think the loader works better than before. Double checked everything and even tried switching hoses around but nothing. Was going to try and take plug back out and bypass power beyond and see if it works???? Always worked before at idle.
It's a Prince RD522GCGA5A4B6 Google that and you'll find a few retailers. If you want the power beyond sleeve, that's Prince part number 660312004. (if your Massey is closed center hydraulics, there's a different sleeve for that.)
Visit www.korvesoliver.com they have replacement seat cushions and parts to rebuild the seat suspensions. Don't hesitate to give them a call if you have questions, they are very knowledgeable and helpful
Another awesome video thanks. Your video on the steering column helped me repair my cockshutt 1650. Now I've messed up my hydraulics as I have one set of remotes and I didn't realize they are single acting I hooked up a round baler with two hydraulic hoses , it worked for 7 bales now it wont lift end gate and the pressure wont release I had to drive the coupler apart and remove pressure by driving a hitch pin into coupler. Your video has been the best I've seen about 1650 hydraulics. Any suggestions would be great thanks. Graham
If it worked for 7 bales, the tractor is probably fine. Those hydraulic tips can go bad and do what you describe. It could also be the interlock spool in the cover is sticking, if you have the internal valve hydraulics. It could even be the hydraulic hose between the tractor and the coupler. I had a customer with one that had a bubble in the rubber on the inside of one of those hoses. The oil got between the layers and filled that bubble up and it pinched off the oil flow, but only in 1 direction. You could try reversing the hoses and see that helps. Chasing those type of problems down can be a lot of trial and error.
Very helpful video. I recently purchased a 1550 gas w/ loader valve for the loader that was connected to the LH remote. First problem was it was flowing against the restrictors (lever fwd and held fwd w/ a bungie to the fender). Switched that (lever rearward and held w/ bungie) and now float function works and system is quieter. Seems running the loader valve off the remote is sending most of the pumped oil back to tank rather than being available for 2nd remote and hitch. Am I right in thinking that changing to loader valve over to the power beyond setup you detail and adding the bypass plug to the loader valve would provide much more flow to the remotes and hitch? I'm not sure but I think the remote return line goes to tank and doesn't supply anything downstream; can you confirm? THanks!
That system isn't fond of using 2 valves at once. I think the return still has to finish the circuit through the second remote and 3 point before it returns to sump. It loses some of the pressure along the way which doesn't help, and back pressure can open the interlock for the other valve and let that one move without using the lever. I would definitely recommend going with a power beyond setup like we did on this 1650. Not only soes ot free up the remotes for orher functions, but the loader should be faster since the oil doesn't have to go through all of the passages of the tractor remote. Alan uses a rear blade with swing and offset cylinders on this 1650, and it all works great. I have my loader on my 1750 using both the remotes for the loader and it works, but after doing this 1650 I need to do the same to my tractor
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thanks Chris for the detailed response; you hit several of the points I've been concerned about. I think I've ordered everything I need for the change-over; just need some luck with the pipe plugs! Fortunately there's been some good tips in this post which should help. Thanks again
@@ThatOliverGuyChris So I plumbed the power beyond w/ 1/2" hose through the loader valve as in the video. Everything thing worked fine until suddenly (I think after going to high engine rpm) everything downstream of steering quit; no flow evident in loader valve hoses and no remotes or hitch. Maybe steering priority valve stuck? I did use 1/2" pioneer ball couplings in the power beyond lines to and from the loader valve so maybe restriction at high engine rpm? I added the couplings for easy completion of the "loop" if the loader is removed; including the loader valve. Any tips? Also still having a hell of a time with the reservoir return low plug. Have used penetrating oil, heat, beat and so far have only managed to somewhat round out the internal square drive. May have to drill out? Don't want to introduce chips; may try chisel on part of plug that is proud of housing. Thanks; any advice appreciated! John
@@JohnWeihs it could be the priority valve. Before you tear into that, try temporarily removing the pioneer couplers out and join it hose to hose. Sometimes those couplers can go bad and the ball in one side or the other seats and shuts off the flow. Something else you can do, with the tractor off, steer it and lower the loader to get all of the pressure out of the system. Then start it up and see if that got it working again. If it does, I'd say it's the coupler. Relieving the pressure lets the balls come unseated and let it flow again. And now that I think of it some more, you could try taking the coupler halves off and switch sides with them. That might keep the ball from seating. Let me know how it turns out.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I removed the couplings and no improvement. Removed, disassembled and reassembled the priority valve (both spools) and the relief valve and found no issues. Still had steering but nothing else and didn't feel flow through the power beyond loop hose. Decided to top off oil; added my last 3 quarts and it came to life. I could swear it was full before and its was working yesterday until it stopped. If I had coupler restriction could the oil have gone somewhere else? It's not leaking externally. I checked the gearbox through the fill cap and couldn't see high oil level. Glad it's working; I'm going to get either flat face 1/2" couplers or 3/4" couplers and 1/2" NPT adaptors to address restriction but still scratching my head on if the oil went somewhere or I'm loosing it! Thanks for any ideas.
It's a Prince RD522GCGA5A4B6. The ports are all pipe thread, so I used some 45 degree elbows, and a couple of 90s. The fittings you use probably depends on where you mount it. I got the loader valve from Dalton Hydraulic online. They had the best price I could find.
If I could ask a question: I I just got a 1750 gas with a brush hog loader. It uses the Hydralectric levers to run the boom and bucket. The last owner told Me that occasionally the hydraulics lock up and nothing moves. It just did that. I was told a little part #1060068 needs to be replaced when it happens. Is it because I am using the hydralectric controls to run the loader? Any help would be much appreciated. I can't keep having it fail when I need it.. I appreciate Your knowledge of these tractors ,
I have a 1750 with a loader on it and hydra-lectric, and it runs my loader fine, so I don't see that being your problem. I'm guessing you are talking the 106006A relief valve, they are under the top cover of the hydraulic unit. I've never had one pop, but they are there in case of a shock load or spike in hydraulic pressure. Did the loader bounce causing a spike in pressure in the lines? I would think the other circuit would still work, but I haven't experienced one of those reliefs blowing before. They're a single use type of relief, so you'll have to replace at the least 1 bad one, possibly more. The gasket for the cover is a 165836A. If it happened to the previous owner and the reliefs fixed it, that's where I would look. If it is a shock load, there are adjustable restrictors that can be turned in to help keep the loader from bouncing. Adding a power beyond like in this video would be another way to go, and it would free up your hydraulic levers for other functions.
@@ThatOliverGuyChrisThank You for responding! All hydraulics went dead including steering and 3 pt. If I can get it going I will try adding power beyond !
If everything went dead, you've got a different problem. The steering has a priority that makes sure it has pressure before everything else. Does your pto still turn? The shaft that drives that also drives your hydraulic pump. The splines may have stripped on that shaft.
Great video, I really would love to find an Oliver and a loader for handling round bales. I have had a really bad want for a 1555 or 1655 diesel for a few years now. we have to move a lot of 5x6 round bales and the tractor we have now just doesn't do an ideal job. That and Farmalls are not my favorite.
I remember when I was doing this to mine. Both plugs were completely froze in. Tried to impact them out and didn't get them. I had to drill both of mine out and then get an easy out. Complete pain in the ass. Loader is nice though now.
Question just bought a 1655 loader is plumbed into the rear outlets, while using it getting some oil pushing out joystick cap and bucket is super jerky on dump only. Any ideas?
The jerking is caused by the oil returning faster than it is leaving, the oil coming out of the breather might be from the same. I need to make a video on this, but on the top cover of the hydraulics is a restrictor screw that you can turn in to slow that return oil down to smooth out the bucket. It is a flat head screw with a jam nut, and that screws into a large hex head plug. Loosen the jam and turn it in a turn and try it, might take a couple tries to dial it in.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thank you so much, I have dual couplers on that side with valves so I can hook up a implement and shut bucket off. I backed the return valve off over half way and it helped. Glad to know I was on the right page. Will adj like you said to see if I can make it right. Thank you so much
If the steering relief valve is bypassing at idle would that have a similar sound of say stepping on a duck? I have good steering and 3 point but my remotes are not responding well.
That might be a good approximation of the sound. It should be louder in that area if that's what it is. Is there a load on the 3 point, or is it empty? Both it and the remotes get their oil after that steering valve, so I'd think they would both be bad if the steering relief is the problem
@@ThatOliverGuyChris 3 point has no problems or noise lifting a 72" snow blower. When I hook the shoot cylinder up to the remote and try to move it, it responds very little (less than 1/4" of movement in either direction) and starts "quacking".
Have you checked the restrictors? Also, could be a bad coupler, have you tried it on another cylinder? It sounds to me like the main relief is opening, telling me there's something restricting flow at the remote
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Update: the bypass bolt on the right hand side on the hydraulic housing seems to have been the issue ( the bolt directly behind the bypass valve) After reading the service manual again I found where it mentions single acting cylinders needed this bypass bolt threaded out 5 or 6 turns. My tractor did have a single hose on one side. After threading the bypass bolt in until it felt “firmly seated against the valve” I no longer have the noise and both hydraulic outlets are functioning as they should.
@@highland512 Glad to hear you got it figured out. That is interesting, because I thought turning that bolt out made it so the 3 point wouldn't lift. I'm guessing it wasn't out the 5 or 6 turns the book called for?
Were you able to repair saginaw steering system. I replaced mine with with one I don't like with the smaller steering wheel. I still have the original parts except for that bearing that holds the column in place and would like to put it back in if possible. Who would be able to do this?
To the best of my knowledge, there isn't a way to repair the saginaw unit. There are some special tools required to set it up right, and I don't know of anyone that has the tool. They can be resealed, but getting everything balanced is the trick. I've got a video where I use the original steering wheel and column coupled to a char-lynn steering unit. It works nice.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I could live with that I can't get used to that go kart sized steering wheel, I'll check it out. I just came across your videos today and they are really nice.
Hay I gust want to make shurw that if I am adding a loader to a 1550 I gust do the same thank u did and that there and no other thangs I have to do to it
This is very great information and will help me with a few things. so i have a question.. I lost all hydraulics to hoses 3 point and steering im guessing the pump is done for? any help would be greatly appreciated. also the hydra shifts seems fine and i dont remember but i think i lost pto also.. thanks for any info you our anyone can help me with
Sounds like the splines at the flywheel that drive the liveshaft for pto and hydraulics stripped out. If it's a large frame Oliver like 1750, 1800 or bigger, the snap ring that holds the sealing plug in place may have popped out, letting the live shaft slide back out of the flywheel. I've got videos on pulling the live shaft on the different models, that's where I'd start.
There's a tin cap with a dipstick behind the right side of the seat, so it sounds like you have the right thing. It seals with an oring, maybe someone put an oversized one in at some point, making it tight. You're probably going to have to pry up on it with a small prybar of some kind
Chris: i have a gas 1650 with a farmhand f225 loader (basically the same as a 1610 oliver loader). If i want to run my NH 469 haybine with out having to unhook my loader remotes, is a power beyond setup the answer? I have 2 remotes and just use the 2 regular levers for my loader. I just have one cylinder on the haybine. What would u suggest i do? Currently i unhook the bucket from the remote and use chains to hold the bucket up while i cut hay.
Yes, doing what we did here would free up your remotes. This tractor used to run the loader through the remotes, but he bought a 3 point blade with 2 different swing cylinders. Now he has full use of the loader, both remotes can be used on the scraper blade, and the 3 point works just like normal.
Hey Chris great Tech video!! I have a question about steering. On my one 1800 I replace a leaking saginaw steering motor with a know good one from a 1850. When turning the wheel either way and mostly to the furthest point at low rpm it sounds like the psi relief is going off. Would that be the one by the filter or is the flow divider where that is regulated? Maybe I need to shim one of them more or a week spring? At higher rpms it works fine, I did take the flow divider apart and cleaned it just like you talked about. I found some rtv in the one on my 1600 that made it steer hard. Thanks
The relief in the flow divider can make that noise, and does it at a lower pressure than the main relief by the filter. I would be looking there. It making that noise when you get to the end of the steering is normal. It should be doing it at higher rpm as well, but it might sound different with the higher flow rate. I'd pull that test plug on the flow divider and put a gauge in it to see what kind of pressure you are getting, but over all it doesn't sound too much out of the ordinary.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris ok I can test it. Next time I am on the tractor I will try and put my hand on it when I hear it to see if that's where it's coming from. If it's low pressure then maybe need a new spring? It steers fine and works good.
I once put a New hydraulic pump in a 1555 oliver gas one with no 3 point hitch I believe that it is called a farm hand loader special tractor the steering works extremely good but it has 2 remote valves it will not develop pressure on the quick couplers but it will lift a dump wagon with a one way cylinder just perfect. Is it possible for the steering priority valve to cause a issue like that?
I wouldn't think that would be the priority valve, or even the single acting cylinder wouldn't work. Do you have the 3 point housing without 3 point that looks like the unit in the video, or is it a flatter cover with the remote valves bolted on top?
@@ThatOliverGuyChris it is a basically flat housing with 2 valve remote block I am thinking that the valves could be wore out a bypassing oil could a person put a basic 2 valve control like from Prince and take off the other valves? I had that happen on a g705 mm diesel tractor and I put a different valve and got hydraulic action right away
There are variable restrictors on those valves. It's a screw that has a jam nut on it that sticks out the back side of the valve. If that is turned in to far it can stop the flow on a double acting cylinder, but still let a single acting work if it is connected to the side without the restrictor.
Hey Chris, when using my 1550 wiht loader using the power beyond setup with separate loader valve the main lift function with hold the loader in position w/ loader valve lever in center position but if I pull back to lift and the engine rpm is not high enough the loader will settle (go down). Is there a check function that should be preventing this or is this just how the system is? Thanks in advance. John
It sounds like your hydraulic pump is getting weak. The priority valve makes sure the first 3 or so gallons per minute of flow goes to steering. If the pump is getting worn out, it will generate less than 3 gpm at low rpm and divert all of the oil to the steering. That cuts off the flow to everything else. The loader will still go down because of its weight.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thanks. So if the flow is low or zero beyond the steering requirements then attempting to raise the loader will result in the loader lowering rather than staying in place and not rising? We were moving a cast iron bathtub the other day and once lifted (at higher rpm) then moved w/ the moving tractor at lower rpm (hydraulics in "neutral", flow blocked in both directions) then loader valve was moved to lift while still at the lower rpm and the loader and tub moved lower rather than holding position and not rising. This was a little unnerving but I'm wanting to double confirm that this is what should be expected and there's not a check feature that should intervene. Thanks!
@@JohnWeihs that is correct. Your loader valve will hold it, just the same as if the tractor is off. With no flow coming from the tractor, the pressure from the weight of the loader can backflow allowing it to lower. Your loader valve would have to have some kind of check valve to prevent it from lowering without pressure. Most don't. To me it sounds like everything is working like it should, except the pump.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thanks for confirming this Chris. In consideration of safety I'll look into both a check valve for the "raise" side of the circuit and a pump upgrade; it would be better to get no response to a raise command than a lowering response. Any reason to check the hydrualic system pressure? It seems OK at higher flow (rpm) conditions I guess...
The loader valve is from Cross; last year I spoke w/ their tech support on other issues so I expect they can advise on a check option/valve upgrade. I appreciate your helping me think this through; I've got the tractor shop manual but the overall loader system needs to be taken into account and your experience is a great resource for part-timers like me!
I have switched all of my tractors over to universal hydraulic/transmission fluid. It's good enough for the newer, higher pressure systems, and I don't have to worry about old tractors contaminating newer tractors with the oil in the hoses and cylinders of equipment. Plus I only have to keep one type of hydraulic oil on hand. Been doing it for quite some time now with no ill effects.
I get my universal from my local fuel supplier. When our dealership was open, we used AGCO's 821XL. I think most brands of universal hydraulic transmission fluid conform to an industry standard, so Hy-Tran or Hy-gard should be the same, as well as the stuff places like TSC sells. Just don't use any of that cheap stuff in the yellow 5 gallon bucket. Oliver originally recommended a 10 weight hydraulic fluid, and something like that will work as well. It just depends on how concerned you are with cross contamination with newer equipment. It might not be an issue for you.
I use universal hydraulic transmission fluid. It's what modern tractors use for their combination hydraulic/transmissions. Its good stuff, readily available, and prevents contamination between old hydraulic oil and newer stuff.
I never clean the priority valve in place. They are easy to remove, disassemble, clean, and rinse on the work bench. Almost always find bits of silvery material inside. (crushed filter) Not easy to get clean in place.
If you're looking for an Oliver loader, the 1610 is a good match. If you're looking for used, I'd try to get something that was already on an Oliver so you get the correct mounting brackets. If you're looking for new, there's lot of companies out there that make a good loader. When we were selling loaders 20 years ago, they offered mounting brackets for Oliver tractors. Now, I'm not so sure. Maybe some of the viewers can chime in with what they have and recommendations.
I’ve been thinking about purchasing a Oliver 2150. However It does not have a front end loader. I’m having a hard time finding loader arms for the 2150 model. How much would this cost to have done?
Looks for a loader for a White, 2-135/2-155. They use the ssame front tub. As to how much it would cost to have them custom built, I could only guess. Personally, I'd find a local fabrication/weld shop and ask them, it's going to take some work to get it to fit and be strong enough.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thank you for the reply. I recently found the Westendorf WL-42 and thought it ought to fit. As for the cost I was actually meaning the entire procedure done in this video say if I was to pay you. I’m relatively new with tractors and this will be my first purchase.I like what you did with this a lot and would honestly like to mimic it with the 2150. Thanks again✌️
I have a 1650 That the auxiliary hydraulics are back feeding somehow. Everything else works good 3 point & steering. Replaced the valve body to have the same problem. Just wondering if you had any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Their is constant low pressure on one side without actuating the valve in either direction. Once you hook up a cylinder it will kick it in or out immediately. Hit the lever and the hoses will jump but not move the cylinder back. The same one either side!
It’s been a while since I played with it but I want to say when you hit the lever in one direction you would get pressure on on both sides at the same time.
A little of that is the nature of the beast, but yours sounds excessive. There's a pair of screws with a 3/8s jam nut on each side, just under the seat. The one with the smaller flat screw head that screws into a large hex shape is a restrictor. Loosen the jam nut and turn that screw out until it stops. If it is screwed in too far it restricts the flow too much and can cause back pressure. Do implements settle while hooked up to the remotes?
All try and look tomorrow but l replaced that hole top lid with the valve bank and everything on it used. It dose not drift after it moves on its own. Says fixed in the full extended or retracted position.
The 1800 is a different animal. The A and B require the removal of the hydraulic unit to set up power beyond, and so far, I can't find any provision for it in the C series.
Does the rear remotes still work doing this? I’d love to change my 1650 over to this set up. I bought it with a gawky looking pto pump set up on it and it would be so much more useable like this.
Yes, that's the main reason we went this route. He previously had the loader working through the remotes, but needed those for the cylinders on the rear blade he had bought.
That was the best explanation of oliver 50 series hydraulics. That will help alot of people. It took me years of trial and error to figured all that stuff out. 👍👍
I've been trying to figure this out for a year researching online. I couldn't figure out what was right and what was a hack. Not anyone in Florida to go to for help.
it was one of the best explanations of oliver hydraulics that i have seen. thank you for all the content the you put out chris please keep it up!!!
Thank you for watching!
Farmers love hoses with pipe fittings.
Enjoyed the video bro it was very interesting. Controlling 2 functions with 1 stick has been a real game changer over the years. Stay safe
Don't have any Olivers here anymore, but I enjoy these tech videos very much. I know you commented on other ones that these don't get the views, probably the case for most of the public watching, but alot of us do appreciate them very much, please continue with them! Thanks, I am sure they will help alot of us in the future.
I don't plan on stopping them. I find it interesting that the type of videos I started the channel for are typically my least watched. Lately that trend seems to be changing and the repair videos are doing well. I'm really impressed with how well this one has done already.
Beautiful 1650 there. I have one too hope to get it looking that good again. Glad to see someone else added more lights to it like i am on mine just got a set of oem oliver light housings for it.
the hydraulics on mine are no where near as quiet when you deadhead them, mine almost growl, that one is a whine like every other tractor I've ran, until now thought it was just an Oliver thing or the hydraulic pump was just tired. Still has plenty of power, steers easy, and as long as youre not deadheading them theyre reasonably quiet.
That power beyond in the loader valve keeps the back pressure off the seals . should remain leak free for a long time. I've seen guys blow the side out of the valve working the tank line at pressure! Prince is a very good quality valve,you may have to replace linkage on the joystick if it gets a lot of use!
I really like that valve. It can be open or closed center, with power beyond, has a built in adjustable relief valve, float on the one valve, and made in the USA. I took it out and pushed some brush back along a field, and it is so much smoother than using the remotes, and easy to run with the joystick. I'm thinking I need to switch my 1750 to this setup.
Good explanation of the hydraulic system. That tractor will be nice with all those upgrades. When we bought our 2-70 there was a piece of plastic from an oil jug that was plugging the steering.
Years ago when dad got our loader, he used, bent Quicke that was off a Deere. So, dad took it to an industrial welder not too far away and he modified thw mounts to fit the Massey Ferguson and fixed the loader to a state that was probably better then new(the only way to tell his welds from the factory is his welds don't have paint). But he hooked up the hydraulics up a bit goofy so the loader worked fine untill the system warmed up, then it stopped working. So a few phone calls later the dealer that originally sold the tractor said "bring it here, we think we know what's up". So an hour in the shop and a few fittings latter the loader is working perfectly.
Swear that the loader was one thing that you wonder what you ever did with out!
From a novice standpoint this is a very informative video. You should be a teacher you made a complicated system easy to understand. Visually it seemed like that bucket wasn’t big enough for the loader.
The loader was originally on their 77, but he moved it to this 1650 when they restored the 77. He want's to get a wider bucket for it.
Careful with those reducers, I've snapped so many of those things. For stubborn plugs, I use a similar method except, I'm using break over bars, no ratchets, no reducers.
Water in the hydraulic oil? Looks milky. You're right about the bucket control, it's backwards but, if he likes it that way...
Oliver's the most easiest, simplest of all tractors to work on. Cheers :)
Watching this reminds me of an event when I was young. Around 1976 my dad worked for a White dealer driving their over the road semi. They had another small semi with a wet line that they used to pull a roll off trailer. This truck was down so they had my dad deliver a couple tractors with his truck pulling the roll off trailer. The problem was his truck did not have a wet line to run the trailer. I was about 10 years old and I went with him. We hooked hoses from the trailer to one of the tractors and used the tractor hydraulics to roll the trailer back. We unloaded the tractors and then hooked the hoses to the other tractor to roll the trailer back on. I was sitting in the seat holding the remote lever while dad was running the levers on the trailer. The reservoir on the tractor I was on got too full and blew off the fill cap and blew oil all over me and all over that tractor. Dad thought it was pretty funny. I didnt think so at the time. lol
If I remember right, the tractor was an oliver 1555
Tat reminds me of when I bought my 2255. I had sold our semi with wet kit, but still had the Landol trailer. I hired a neighbor to haul the trailer and took a long set of hoses we had, coupled up to the 2255 and used it to roll and tilt the trailer and get the tractor loaded. I didn't get an oil bath, though!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Our fault was we used one tractor to roll the trailer off and the other to roll it on so oil from the one over filled the other.
My dad worked for Witmers. It was a White dealer in Columbiana, Ohio. Farm hand Mike , Mike Less on you tube worked there at one time also.
Oops! Funny now, but not at the time. Reminded me of a time I was checking engine oil on jet engines. The quicker we got it done, the sooner we could go back to drinking. I opened the cap on one engine that was still winding down. It was off but still rotating. I took a nice shower with very warm jet engine oil.
Wow this was awesome thank you for taking the time to do this! I run a loader on my 1800FWA but just a plow blade for packing trench silo and snow removal etc. It’s always been off the remotes but want to add power beyond. I never completely understood the entire hydraulic unit until I watched this video thanks again. Very impressive your knowledge on these things Chris. The tractor has always steered hard, I always just thought because I have large tires on the front and it had the steering motor that wasn’t that good. Maybe it’s some thing else
Power beyond is a different setup on the 1800. I was recently trying to help someone with an 1800 C, and I haven't been able to figure that one out. The A and B have provisions, but you have to pull the entire hydraulic unit to put a plug in the housing.
My 1800 FWA steers easy, you might need to shim that relief valve in the priority valve body to get the pressure up.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris it’s funny because I just got back inside. I went out to look at my tractor after watching the video, and yes your right it does look different. I think you are right on the relief valve needing shimmed up. I notice the hydraulics chatter a little when I steer left and right, especially if I steer all the way one direction.
You might want to check the system pressure as well. Alan had someone else put a hydraulic pump in this before he knew me very well, and the system pressure was only 1,100 psi. Once I got that back up to the 2,050 psi the steering was much better. I should have made a video on that, but didn't have the gopro in the shop that day.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris That’s a good idea I will do that. I’m going to get it in the shop this winter. I’ve had a little bit of trouble with engine oil in the radiator, it’s probably time for another head gasket but I really think it needs the block decked. I keep procrastinating on the whole project because if I bring it into the shop I really want to go through and fix everything. It’s hard to justify the time because we don’t use the tractor anymore I do a little bit of work around the yards with it, but it will never have to work hard again. My dream is to completely restore it, as it really is not in very rough condition right now to begin with. Someday..
I am 99% sure the tractor is pretty much original I don’t think anyone has even touched the hydraulics. I suspect if anything the pump could be getting tired like you said in the video. I think the most disassembly that tractor has seen has been engine work over the years.
Happy Thanksgiving Chris. Your videos helped with the sanity this year. Thanks for making them. I love Oliver's .
Happy Thanksgiving!
I love the Oliver green!
Very informative Chris. Our JD 4020 loader tractor that we use to own was set up this way as well. We always called it being plumbed in live. The part that we liked about it was that it kept the hydraulic remotes free for other jobs. I really like the joy stick we have in our New Holland now it is in a very handy spot. I always got a sore bag with the old loader tractor as it had three separate levers to run it and they were at the front of the cab. However they always worked when you pushed on them. The only down side to the joy stick we have now is that it has a computer in it. It went out this spring and it cost $600 for the new one.
I'm seriously considering doing this on my 1750. The ease of use, the smoothness of the valve, plus having the remotes open make it very tempting. The new valve was about $350, most everything else is already there. My loader is a quick attach, so having the hydraulic couplers up front would make it easier to move remove as well. Not that I do that very often. Lol.
Just watched Paul's latest video. I'm kind of surprised you guys don't use the skid steer for more loader chores. We loaned our skid steer out to a customer years ago while their skid steer was in for service. Boy did I learn to appreciate that Gehl during that time!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris We would use it more often if it stayed here full time. Our cousin Matt owns half of it so we get to share the use of it. Someday we need to sell our half out and buy our own.
Ok, that makes sense. I figured it was more about the comfy cab on the blue tractors. 😎
Wonderful video.
Great tutorial which I must watch again..
The plug that was giving you trouble with the ratchet and the pipe, when you had help hit the socket wrench at the same time may help..
Great video... 👍👍
Very smooth operation Chris
Great video Chris. I still have a 1810 loader here that I adapted a Westendorf quick attach system on 40 years ago and replaced the bucket with a John Deere 7' bucket. Also had a set of forks, bale spear, and a bale hugger that I adapted to the quick attach. Seems that I had to plumb my 1855 a little different than you did. If I am not mistaken my 1855 has a closed hyd. system on it.
Yep. I've got a video on adding power beyond to the closed center Olivers, that one is simpler yet.
Great video Chris. Interesting and very informative.
Very good information about hydraulic on Oliver tractor
GREAT VIDEO! Thanks for putting your knowledge out there
Glad it was helpful!
I've been looking for this video for several years, I assume this will also work on a white 2-70. thanx a bunch, great job.
Yes, 2-70 is exactly the same.
love these kind of videos....just ordered me some Herman apparel too
Awesome, thank you!
An automotive machine shop showed me a trick on getting out those stuck pipe plugs. Just heat the plug itself red hot and then allow it cool completely. Then it will come out with your fingers.
Good to know. I have another plug that has been giving me grief that I can try that on. Thanks
Great and informative video. I can't help but think maybe you should put a protective sleeve around that hydraulic line. Something to deflect a potential leak. Would hate to have it spray oil right under your leg. Otherwise great!
Love your videos!
Thank you!
G'day Chris great video and very informative 👍
Thanks Murphy! I haven't seen any videos from you in awhile, hope all is well.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris All is well just been busy but more videos are coming 👍
I like watching u
I learned a lot u
Im rebuilding my power steering under radiator oil all over place grease front wheel. Give me 1750 some love. Thanks i learned a lot from u.
Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching
That is a nice looking tractor.
Alan will be driving the best looking snow service in his town!
It beets my super 55 lol
Great video as always. Thanks
Good content this video helped me out a great deal
Excellent video keep up the great videos 👍👍👍👍
Your the man....
nicely done sir.
Great video Have a 1550 with 1710 loader Dad just used tractor remotes for loader functions back in 1968, I've heard of the power beyond option and have read about it, But your video really simplified it , Our steering isn't what it should be ,if I test pressure and's it's low will I need to add shim's? I worked in a sugar factory for 36 years, When it come's to pipe fitting's try to tighten before you use heat, It works 90 % of time. Keep up the good work, Enjoy learning more about my tractors. My brother and I have a 1550g, 1555g loader special 1650g and a 1850d Wheatland . And several Whites a 2-105, 2-135 , 185, 6175 and a 6195. All but 1650 are used on regular basis, That's the tractor I learned to plow on when 6-7 years old.
I’m just getting my first Oliver tractor. Where can I get a seat like that! Thanks for a great video!
Great video. Question, why didn’t Oliver use a detent on the hydraulic valves? I know on the early series they had the electric system but in the newer series that wasn’t there. I just like being able to raise at the end without holding the lever.
They did have a detent option, but it wasn't as common as the hydra lectric option. The 00 and 50 series hydra lectric worked just like the earlier system on the Supers and 3 digit tractors. So many had the wires snipped off you wouldn't know they were hydra lectric back in the day..
IM NOT THE ONLY ONE WHO USES STREET ELBOWS ON HYDRAULICS!! I NEW IT LOL
Busted! LOL
@@ThatOliverGuyChris had so many know it alls o here tell me they'd blow out lol haven't seen it yet haha
Same here. Only ones I've ever seen break are the ones Oliver put on the 3 point lift cylinder relief valve from the factory. Bad part about that one is you have to pull the hydraulic unit to fix it. Maybe I should start a betting pool on how long before someone points out those street elbows! LOL
I mean how long before someone COMPLAINS about the street elbows. Lol
@@ThatOliverGuyChris hahaha you really should lol
Great video ,sometime could you make a video on transmission calibration on the 6125
I'm thinking mine might be getting new tires in the near future, that is a good reason to recalibrate.
Very nice
nice tractor
Excellent video
Thank you.
Great vid!
Mint as usual
Hey Chris I’m having trouble determining where the restrictor is for the remote hydraulics on my 1650. I have a cultipacker hooked up and when I let it down it does a lot of jumping. I’m sure there is a restrictor like on my white but I don’t know where it is. Any info on that?
Ive got a video that covers that.
ua-cam.com/video/Ue4KmLaJO_k/v-deo.html
Nice explanation. The circuitry applies to a lot of tractors. Wouldn't it be a slick addition to convert that loader to skid steer quick attach?
That's what I did. All I have left to do is run a set of hoses to the front so I can run my grapple.
Alan is a lucky guy lol. That tractor looks and sounds great! Really nice job guys. How much for me to throw mine on a truck headed to Losey’s home for wayward Olivers so you can breathe some new life into it 😄
I guess that would be up to the trucker. LOL. We got lucky on this one only having messed up timing. It starts and runs nice now.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris yes that’s a great running tractor. Alan must really like it. Trust me if something bad ever happened to me where I couldn’t keep my tractor around anymore I would be getting in touch with you to send it your way to a new safe home . Have a great night !
That would make it a Wayward Oliver!
Thanks for taking the time to make a video on 50 series hydraulic systems. I have worked on a few had a basic knowledge of it. You explained it really good. When you replace those gear pumps what brand do you use?
Last one I replaced was the one in Herman, and I was lucky enough to find a nos Vickers pump for that. I go to my Agco dealer or one of the aftermarket places that specialize in Oliver so it's right the first time.
Why would my three point not work after doing this. Pretty sure followed the directions to a t. Loader works great, three point won’t lift now? Always was strong before?? Any help is appreciated
Do your remotes work ok?
I don’t believe so have plugged them in yet. Three point will go down if tractor revs but won’t pick up with me standing on it. Loader works excellent, steering works, think the loader works better than before. Double checked everything and even tried switching hoses around but nothing. Was going to try and take plug back out and bypass power beyond and see if it works???? Always worked before at idle.
I think I figured it out, will let you know
Oh, I so want that valve for my MF. Could we get a part no. please. I enjoy all of your videos. Thanks so much for taking the time.
It's a Prince RD522GCGA5A4B6 Google that and you'll find a few retailers. If you want the power beyond sleeve, that's Prince part number 660312004. (if your Massey is closed center hydraulics, there's a different sleeve for that.)
The closed center sleeve is Prince # 660312005
found it
Prince RD522GCGA5A4B6
thank you sir
Forgot to mention, I’m getting an Oliver 1600.
Visit www.korvesoliver.com they have replacement seat cushions and parts to rebuild the seat suspensions. Don't hesitate to give them a call if you have questions, they are very knowledgeable and helpful
Another awesome video thanks. Your video on the steering column helped me repair my cockshutt 1650. Now I've messed up my hydraulics as I have one set of remotes and I didn't realize they are single acting I hooked up a round baler with two hydraulic hoses , it worked for 7 bales now it wont lift end gate and the pressure wont release I had to drive the coupler apart and remove pressure by driving a hitch pin into coupler. Your video has been the best I've seen about 1650 hydraulics. Any suggestions would be great thanks. Graham
If it worked for 7 bales, the tractor is probably fine. Those hydraulic tips can go bad and do what you describe. It could also be the interlock spool in the cover is sticking, if you have the internal valve hydraulics. It could even be the hydraulic hose between the tractor and the coupler. I had a customer with one that had a bubble in the rubber on the inside of one of those hoses. The oil got between the layers and filled that bubble up and it pinched off the oil flow, but only in 1 direction. You could try reversing the hoses and see that helps. Chasing those type of problems down can be a lot of trial and error.
Very helpful video. I recently purchased a 1550 gas w/ loader valve for the loader that was connected to the LH remote. First problem was it was flowing against the restrictors (lever fwd and held fwd w/ a bungie to the fender). Switched that (lever rearward and held w/ bungie) and now float function works and system is quieter. Seems running the loader valve off the remote is sending most of the pumped oil back to tank rather than being available for 2nd remote and hitch. Am I right in thinking that changing to loader valve over to the power beyond setup you detail and adding the bypass plug to the loader valve would provide much more flow to the remotes and hitch? I'm not sure but I think the remote return line goes to tank and doesn't supply anything downstream; can you confirm? THanks!
That system isn't fond of using 2 valves at once. I think the return still has to finish the circuit through the second remote and 3 point before it returns to sump. It loses some of the pressure along the way which doesn't help, and back pressure can open the interlock for the other valve and let that one move without using the lever. I would definitely recommend going with a power beyond setup like we did on this 1650. Not only soes ot free up the remotes for orher functions, but the loader should be faster since the oil doesn't have to go through all of the passages of the tractor remote. Alan uses a rear blade with swing and offset cylinders on this 1650, and it all works great. I have my loader on my 1750 using both the remotes for the loader and it works, but after doing this 1650 I need to do the same to my tractor
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thanks Chris for the detailed response; you hit several of the points I've been concerned about. I think I've ordered everything I need for the change-over; just need some luck with the pipe plugs! Fortunately there's been some good tips in this post which should help. Thanks again
@@ThatOliverGuyChris So I plumbed the power beyond w/ 1/2" hose through the loader valve as in the video. Everything thing worked fine until suddenly (I think after going to high engine rpm) everything downstream of steering quit; no flow evident in loader valve hoses and no remotes or hitch. Maybe steering priority valve stuck? I did use 1/2" pioneer ball couplings in the power beyond lines to and from the loader valve so maybe restriction at high engine rpm? I added the couplings for easy completion of the "loop" if the loader is removed; including the loader valve. Any tips? Also still having a hell of a time with the reservoir return low plug. Have used penetrating oil, heat, beat and so far have only managed to somewhat round out the internal square drive. May have to drill out? Don't want to introduce chips; may try chisel on part of plug that is proud of housing. Thanks; any advice appreciated! John
@@JohnWeihs it could be the priority valve. Before you tear into that, try temporarily removing the pioneer couplers out and join it hose to hose. Sometimes those couplers can go bad and the ball in one side or the other seats and shuts off the flow. Something else you can do, with the tractor off, steer it and lower the loader to get all of the pressure out of the system. Then start it up and see if that got it working again. If it does, I'd say it's the coupler. Relieving the pressure lets the balls come unseated and let it flow again. And now that I think of it some more, you could try taking the coupler halves off and switch sides with them. That might keep the ball from seating. Let me know how it turns out.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I removed the couplings and no improvement. Removed, disassembled and reassembled the priority valve (both spools) and the relief valve and found no issues. Still had steering but nothing else and didn't feel flow through the power beyond loop hose. Decided to top off oil; added my last 3 quarts and it came to life. I could swear it was full before and its was working yesterday until it stopped. If I had coupler restriction could the oil have gone somewhere else? It's not leaking externally. I checked the gearbox through the fill cap and couldn't see high oil level. Glad it's working; I'm going to get either flat face 1/2" couplers or 3/4" couplers and 1/2" NPT adaptors to address restriction but still scratching my head on if the oil went somewhere or I'm loosing it! Thanks for any ideas.
What is the part number/model for that loader valve? Also what fittings did you use. I'm about to put a 1610 loader on my 1655. Thanks!
It's a Prince RD522GCGA5A4B6. The ports are all pipe thread, so I used some 45 degree elbows, and a couple of 90s. The fittings you use probably depends on where you mount it. I got the loader valve from Dalton Hydraulic online. They had the best price I could find.
If I could ask a question: I I just got a 1750 gas with a brush hog loader. It uses the Hydralectric levers to run the boom and bucket. The last owner told Me that occasionally the hydraulics lock up and nothing moves. It just did that. I was told a little part #1060068 needs to be replaced when it happens. Is it because I am using the hydralectric controls to run the loader? Any help would be much appreciated. I can't keep having it fail when I need it.. I appreciate Your knowledge of these tractors ,
I have a 1750 with a loader on it and hydra-lectric, and it runs my loader fine, so I don't see that being your problem. I'm guessing you are talking the 106006A relief valve, they are under the top cover of the hydraulic unit. I've never had one pop, but they are there in case of a shock load or spike in hydraulic pressure. Did the loader bounce causing a spike in pressure in the lines? I would think the other circuit would still work, but I haven't experienced one of those reliefs blowing before. They're a single use type of relief, so you'll have to replace at the least 1 bad one, possibly more. The gasket for the cover is a 165836A. If it happened to the previous owner and the reliefs fixed it, that's where I would look. If it is a shock load, there are adjustable restrictors that can be turned in to help keep the loader from bouncing. Adding a power beyond like in this video would be another way to go, and it would free up your hydraulic levers for other functions.
@@ThatOliverGuyChrisThank You for responding! All hydraulics went dead including steering and 3 pt. If I can get it going I will try adding power beyond !
If everything went dead, you've got a different problem. The steering has a priority that makes sure it has pressure before everything else. Does your pto still turn? The shaft that drives that also drives your hydraulic pump. The splines may have stripped on that shaft.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris will check that.
Great video, I really would love to find an Oliver and a loader for handling round bales. I have had a really bad want for a 1555 or 1655 diesel for a few years now. we have to move a lot of 5x6 round bales and the tractor we have now just doesn't do an ideal job. That and Farmalls are not my favorite.
The 1655 has a larger hydraulic pump and shifts easier, that's the way I would go.
I remember when I was doing this to mine. Both plugs were completely froze in. Tried to impact them out and didn't get them. I had to drill both of mine out and then get an easy out. Complete pain in the ass. Loader is nice though now.
Will this work with aftermarket loaders such as great bend or bush hog etc. Thanks
Yes, as long as the loader valve is open center and capable of at least 15 gallons per minute and 2500 psi.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thanks happy 4th
Question just bought a 1655 loader is plumbed into the rear outlets, while using it getting some oil pushing out joystick cap and bucket is super jerky on dump only. Any ideas?
The jerking is caused by the oil returning faster than it is leaving, the oil coming out of the breather might be from the same. I need to make a video on this, but on the top cover of the hydraulics is a restrictor screw that you can turn in to slow that return oil down to smooth out the bucket. It is a flat head screw with a jam nut, and that screws into a large hex head plug. Loosen the jam and turn it in a turn and try it, might take a couple tries to dial it in.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thank you so much, I have dual couplers on that side with valves so I can hook up a implement and shut bucket off. I backed the return valve off over half way and it helped. Glad to know I was on the right page. Will adj like you said to see if I can make it right. Thank you so much
Chris
Would this apply to an 1800 also?
I would like to get it set up to run my 3 point hitch log splitter.
The 1800 is a different animal. I've got a video on it.
ua-cam.com/video/-TeVHmI-FSs/v-deo.html
If the steering relief valve is bypassing at idle would that have a similar sound of say stepping on a duck? I have good steering and 3 point but my remotes are not responding well.
That might be a good approximation of the sound. It should be louder in that area if that's what it is. Is there a load on the 3 point, or is it empty? Both it and the remotes get their oil after that steering valve, so I'd think they would both be bad if the steering relief is the problem
@@ThatOliverGuyChris 3 point has no problems or noise lifting a 72" snow blower. When I hook the shoot cylinder up to the remote and try to move it, it responds very little (less than 1/4" of movement in either direction) and starts "quacking".
Have you checked the restrictors? Also, could be a bad coupler, have you tried it on another cylinder? It sounds to me like the main relief is opening, telling me there's something restricting flow at the remote
@@ThatOliverGuyChris
Update: the bypass bolt on the right hand side on the hydraulic housing seems to have been the issue ( the bolt directly behind the bypass valve) After reading the service manual again I found where it mentions single acting cylinders needed this bypass bolt threaded out 5 or 6 turns. My tractor did have a single hose on one side. After threading the bypass bolt in until it felt “firmly seated against the valve” I no longer have the noise and both hydraulic outlets are functioning as they should.
@@highland512 Glad to hear you got it figured out. That is interesting, because I thought turning that bolt out made it so the 3 point wouldn't lift. I'm guessing it wasn't out the 5 or 6 turns the book called for?
Were you able to repair saginaw steering system. I replaced mine with with one I don't like with the smaller steering wheel. I still have the original parts except for that bearing that holds the column in place and would like to put it back in if possible. Who would be able to do this?
To the best of my knowledge, there isn't a way to repair the saginaw unit. There are some special tools required to set it up right, and I don't know of anyone that has the tool. They can be resealed, but getting everything balanced is the trick. I've got a video where I use the original steering wheel and column coupled to a char-lynn steering unit. It works nice.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I could live with that I can't get used to that go kart sized steering wheel, I'll check it out. I just came across your videos today and they are really nice.
Thanks!
Hay I gust want to make shurw that if I am adding a loader to a 1550 I gust do the same thank u did and that there and no other thangs I have to do to it
Yep, the 1550 is exactly the same.
This is very great information and will help me with a few things.
so i have a question..
I lost all hydraulics to hoses 3 point and steering im guessing the pump is done for?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
also the hydra shifts seems fine
and i dont remember but i think i lost pto also..
thanks for any info you our anyone can help me with
Sounds like the splines at the flywheel that drive the liveshaft for pto and hydraulics stripped out. If it's a large frame Oliver like 1750, 1800 or bigger, the snap ring that holds the sealing plug in place may have popped out, letting the live shaft slide back out of the flywheel. I've got videos on pulling the live shaft on the different models, that's where I'd start.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris
Ok I’ll look at that. It also make a loud screaming sound. I forgot to mention in my question.
Thank you.
My money is on those splines. Shaft removal isn't bad, but the engine has to come out to replace the hub that drives the shaft.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris
Ok it is a 1850
Thank you for the info
Amazing vid,I was just wondering if you can show how to adjust an Oliver 77 carb correctly
I can add that to the list.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I bet that list is getting Loooonnnggg!
It is. Guess I don't have to worry about ideas.
How do you check the rear hyd? oil on a 550, I can’t seem to get the cap off, behind the seat.
There's a tin cap with a dipstick behind the right side of the seat, so it sounds like you have the right thing. It seals with an oring, maybe someone put an oversized one in at some point, making it tight. You're probably going to have to pry up on it with a small prybar of some kind
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Does it just pull up, or twist?
It pulls straight up, but twisting it won't hurt anything. Giving it a twist might help break it loose if the oring is sticking to the cap.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Ok, I was twisting, but not pulling up, figured it was threaded. Thanks!
Chris: i have a gas 1650 with a farmhand f225 loader (basically the same as a 1610 oliver loader). If i want to run my NH 469 haybine with out having to unhook my loader remotes, is a power beyond setup the answer? I have 2 remotes and just use the 2 regular levers for my loader. I just have one cylinder on the haybine. What would u suggest i do? Currently i unhook the bucket from the remote and use chains to hold the bucket up while i cut hay.
Yes, doing what we did here would free up your remotes. This tractor used to run the loader through the remotes, but he bought a 3 point blade with 2 different swing cylinders. Now he has full use of the loader, both remotes can be used on the scraper blade, and the 3 point works just like normal.
Hey Chris great Tech video!! I have a question about steering. On my one 1800 I replace a leaking saginaw steering motor with a know good one from a 1850. When turning the wheel either way and mostly to the furthest point at low rpm it sounds like the psi relief is going off. Would that be the one by the filter or is the flow divider where that is regulated? Maybe I need to shim one of them more or a week spring? At higher rpms it works fine, I did take the flow divider apart and cleaned it just like you talked about. I found some rtv in the one on my 1600 that made it steer hard. Thanks
The relief in the flow divider can make that noise, and does it at a lower pressure than the main relief by the filter. I would be looking there. It making that noise when you get to the end of the steering is normal. It should be doing it at higher rpm as well, but it might sound different with the higher flow rate. I'd pull that test plug on the flow divider and put a gauge in it to see what kind of pressure you are getting, but over all it doesn't sound too much out of the ordinary.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris ok I can test it. Next time I am on the tractor I will try and put my hand on it when I hear it to see if that's where it's coming from. If it's low pressure then maybe need a new spring? It steers fine and works good.
It might be a weak spring.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Ok something to check. What projects do you have for this winter that you want to get done?
@@aaronkaraszewski2749 , Biggest thing is to get that purple 1850 painted and back together. I'd also like to get started on the 1855 FWA.
Go to 7:30 to start the real power beyond addition to tractor and save yourself some time.
I once put a New hydraulic pump in a 1555 oliver gas one with no 3 point hitch I believe that it is called a farm hand loader special tractor the steering works extremely good but it has 2 remote valves it will not develop pressure on the quick couplers but it will lift a dump wagon with a one way cylinder just perfect. Is it possible for the steering priority valve to cause a issue like that?
I wouldn't think that would be the priority valve, or even the single acting cylinder wouldn't work. Do you have the 3 point housing without 3 point that looks like the unit in the video, or is it a flatter cover with the remote valves bolted on top?
@@ThatOliverGuyChris it is a basically flat housing with 2 valve remote block I am thinking that the valves could be wore out a bypassing oil could a person put a basic 2 valve control like from Prince and take off the other valves? I had that happen on a g705 mm diesel tractor and I put a different valve and got hydraulic action right away
There are variable restrictors on those valves. It's a screw that has a jam nut on it that sticks out the back side of the valve. If that is turned in to far it can stop the flow on a double acting cylinder, but still let a single acting work if it is connected to the side without the restrictor.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I will have to check it out that makes sense of what could be wrong with the hydraulic system
Hey Chris, when using my 1550 wiht loader using the power beyond setup with separate loader valve the main lift function with hold the loader in position w/ loader valve lever in center position but if I pull back to lift and the engine rpm is not high enough the loader will settle (go down). Is there a check function that should be preventing this or is this just how the system is? Thanks in advance. John
It sounds like your hydraulic pump is getting weak. The priority valve makes sure the first 3 or so gallons per minute of flow goes to steering. If the pump is getting worn out, it will generate less than 3 gpm at low rpm and divert all of the oil to the steering. That cuts off the flow to everything else. The loader will still go down because of its weight.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thanks. So if the flow is low or zero beyond the steering requirements then attempting to raise the loader will result in the loader lowering rather than staying in place and not rising? We were moving a cast iron bathtub the other day and once lifted (at higher rpm) then moved w/ the moving tractor at lower rpm (hydraulics in "neutral", flow blocked in both directions) then loader valve was moved to lift while still at the lower rpm and the loader and tub moved lower rather than holding position and not rising. This was a little unnerving but I'm wanting to double confirm that this is what should be expected and there's not a check feature that should intervene. Thanks!
@@JohnWeihs that is correct. Your loader valve will hold it, just the same as if the tractor is off. With no flow coming from the tractor, the pressure from the weight of the loader can backflow allowing it to lower. Your loader valve would have to have some kind of check valve to prevent it from lowering without pressure. Most don't. To me it sounds like everything is working like it should, except the pump.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thanks for confirming this Chris. In consideration of safety I'll look into both a check valve for the "raise" side of the circuit and a pump upgrade; it would be better to get no response to a raise command than a lowering response. Any reason to check the hydrualic system pressure? It seems OK at higher flow (rpm) conditions I guess...
The loader valve is from Cross; last year I spoke w/ their tech support on other issues so I expect they can advise on a check option/valve upgrade. I appreciate your helping me think this through; I've got the tractor shop manual but the overall loader system needs to be taken into account and your experience is a great resource for part-timers like me!
In your opinion what is the best oil to use in this type of hydraulic system?
I have switched all of my tractors over to universal hydraulic/transmission fluid. It's good enough for the newer, higher pressure systems, and I don't have to worry about old tractors contaminating newer tractors with the oil in the hoses and cylinders of equipment. Plus I only have to keep one type of hydraulic oil on hand. Been doing it for quite some time now with no ill effects.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris any particular brand/ weight
I get my universal from my local fuel supplier. When our dealership was open, we used AGCO's 821XL. I think most brands of universal hydraulic transmission fluid conform to an industry standard, so Hy-Tran or Hy-gard should be the same, as well as the stuff places like TSC sells. Just don't use any of that cheap stuff in the yellow 5 gallon bucket. Oliver originally recommended a 10 weight hydraulic fluid, and something like that will work as well. It just depends on how concerned you are with cross contamination with newer equipment. It might not be an issue for you.
Chris: what modern hydraulic oil would you recommend to use in a 1650 today? I have the owners manual, but obviously that is from 1967.
I use universal hydraulic transmission fluid. It's what modern tractors use for their combination hydraulic/transmissions. Its good stuff, readily available, and prevents contamination between old hydraulic oil and newer stuff.
I never clean the priority valve in place. They are easy to remove, disassemble, clean, and rinse on the work bench. Almost always find bits of silvery material inside. (crushed filter) Not easy to get clean in place.
Man thats a little loader lol
Yeah, it was originally on their 77. He wants to get a wider bucket for it, especially since it will mostly be pushing snow.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris ya for snow itll work good
I have a 1650D. What would recommend for a loader. I have to start from scratch.
@@drbock1000 a 707 leon. Best loader you'll ever own
If you're looking for an Oliver loader, the 1610 is a good match. If you're looking for used, I'd try to get something that was already on an Oliver so you get the correct mounting brackets. If you're looking for new, there's lot of companies out there that make a good loader. When we were selling loaders 20 years ago, they offered mounting brackets for Oliver tractors. Now, I'm not so sure. Maybe some of the viewers can chime in with what they have and recommendations.
Ok , I'm a little confused Are 1650s closed , or , open center ?
They are open center.
I’ve been thinking about purchasing a Oliver 2150. However It does not have a front end loader. I’m having a hard time finding loader arms for the 2150 model. How much would this cost to have done?
Looks for a loader for a White, 2-135/2-155. They use the ssame front tub. As to how much it would cost to have them custom built, I could only guess. Personally, I'd find a local fabrication/weld shop and ask them, it's going to take some work to get it to fit and be strong enough.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thank you for the reply. I recently found the Westendorf WL-42 and thought it ought to fit. As for the cost I was actually meaning the entire procedure done in this video say if I was to pay you. I’m relatively new with tractors and this will be my first purchase.I like what you did with this a lot and would honestly like to mimic it with the 2150. Thanks again✌️
I have a 1650 That the auxiliary hydraulics are back feeding somehow. Everything else works good 3 point & steering. Replaced the valve body to have the same problem. Just wondering if you had any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Can you give me an example of what happens when you use it?
Their is constant low pressure on one side without actuating the valve in either direction.
Once you hook up a cylinder it will kick it in or out immediately. Hit the lever and the hoses will jump but not move the cylinder back. The same one either side!
It’s been a while since I played with it but I want to say when you hit the lever in one direction you would get pressure on on both sides at the same time.
A little of that is the nature of the beast, but yours sounds excessive. There's a pair of screws with a 3/8s jam nut on each side, just under the seat. The one with the smaller flat screw head that screws into a large hex shape is a restrictor. Loosen the jam nut and turn that screw out until it stops. If it is screwed in too far it restricts the flow too much and can cause back pressure. Do implements settle while hooked up to the remotes?
All try and look tomorrow but l replaced that hole top lid with the valve bank and everything on it used. It dose not drift after it moves on its own. Says fixed in the full extended or retracted position.
What about the 1800 .????
The 1800 is a different animal. The A and B require the removal of the hydraulic unit to set up power beyond, and so far, I can't find any provision for it in the C series.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thank you!! Thats what i thought
Does the rear remotes still work doing this? I’d love to change my 1650 over to this set up. I bought it with a gawky looking pto pump set up on it and it would be so much more useable like this.
Yes, that's the main reason we went this route. He previously had the loader working through the remotes, but needed those for the cylinders on the rear blade he had bought.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I can’t tell you how much I appreciate you doing this video. Really helps out.
Glad I can help out.
34 views, 9 likes and I'm still second comment 🙄😎
So close to first!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris can't get much closer without being there 😎😁
Another toy fixed up for better uses of hydraulic.
I liked it so much, I think my 1750 needs the same thing done to it.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris so are you saying this was a demo to make sure you would like lol.
That's a good way to look at it. LOL