Installing A Green Line Laser On My Wood-Mizer LT40 # 169
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- The laser in the video is untried by me and I cannot recommend it at this time. Time will tell though.
Link to the Apinex 50mW Green Line Laser
www.apinex.com...
Don't forget the mount.
Click the link below and select 16mm.
www.apinex.com...
Mr.Dave there is already a pre-wired wire for the laser already is ran for you. I already installed a laser on mine but haven’t done a video on it yet. I bought a cheap laser and it’s not powerful enough . I’m going to order a new one when I get a chance . Good job on installing that one. Thanks for sharing
Dave, thanks for making this video. I have been planning to install a laser on my LT35. With your instructions it should be pretty easy.
Good luck. Make sure you get the correct mount for the laser. I ordered the wrong size but Alpina caught the error and gave me the right one.
Dave, I thoroughly enjoyed your video. Keep up the good work. Dave
Well, Dave, thank you.
Dave
That was an illuminating video. I am now thinking I should mount one on mine. Although I have had my mill for two years and I still can’t find where they put the battery on it. I will look forward to seeing yours in action.
Me too! I hope it's before Spring since we got 18" of snow yesterday.
Apinex has a battery "box" for the laser. Part # PS-3. Includes alligator clips and a switch.
Why would anyone want to clip an alligator?
@@TheOldManAndTheSaw Oh my goodness, I won't bother telling you it's warm and sunny here today.
@@TheOldManAndTheSaw I wondered if there might be a battery box version. I would probably want to clip an alligator for the same reason I would clip an crocodile.
@@WilsonForestLands Thanks for the weather report, Dick. Uh.....I mean Michael.
Dave, you might benefit fron one of those new wave digital protractor contraptions like your great great grandpappy wished he had. They cost ~ $30 and the one I have is slightly off by 1/10° at 90° when matched up to a Starrett machinist square ---- negligible for slicing wood. It's better than trying to eyeball a level from the position of a compound angle. As long as the battery is OK they work fine and fit in a long pocket.
When I work with small parts, nuts, bolts, screws, etc., I put a light colored towel on the floor or table under the work area. If I drop anything it doesn't bounce off a hard surface and hide itself from me. Try dropping a small metal screw or nut on a kitchen counter from about 12 inches up and watch what happens. Better yet try it with screws from your eyeglasses.
Ralph, I just dropped a 3/4" piece of black plastic on the floor at my feet. Gone forever.
Thanks for the tips.
Dave
Great job.
Well explained, thanks.
Thank you.
Dave
Great job on the install Dave. I'm relieved that you didn't get suckered into buying one of the expensive "re-badged" chinese lasers that people are retailing in America for $500-$900. It's absurd what vendors think they can get away with. I have a 50mw that I bought off of aliexpress for $25 that I have to mount to our mill. I think the 50mw's should serve us both well in moderate sunlight (don't know about full sun). -Andy
What we need is a 50WATT laser and then we can LASER the boards off. Would that be cool or what?
@@TheOldManAndTheSaw Until you burn your building down using it . . . .
@The Old Man And The Saw it's odd that you say that, I used to work around 3-7kw lasers doing my metalworking the last 20 years. Most people don't realize just how short the focal plane is on a powerful laser, makes it incredibly difficult to make deep cuts. How much snow are you getting here shortly Dave? -Andy
@@cripplecreeksawmill We got about 18" yesterday. At least it was wet, slippery, and heavy.
hi there that will put a whole new light on things , john
Thanks John. Let's hope it works outside in the sun.
Well done. There is a pre-wired power line already fed through the wire chase. The wire is labeled. You just have to find it. I think your method was actually easier.
Now I'm curious John. I'll see if I can find it.
(next time please tell me these secrets before I do the work)
You are forgiven...........this time.
Thanks, Dave.
oh my OCD...lol, thanks, gonna try one myself
The wire for the laser is under the engine ,the cover plate attaches to the mast post. it is folded over and taped to the main harness . I think it is # 27 , the other end is in the control panel taped up by the up down switch. At least that is where mine is I have 2010 LT40 I Put on laser on mine, works very good inside not so good outside on a sunny day, I find green is better. Look in your service manual in electrical diagram for the proper wire numbers, as i may have given you the wrong numbers for your machine. Good luck on sawing.
Thanks for the info.
I'll forgive you for not telling me this before I started.
This time.
Thank you for taking the time to comment.
Where does the second wire from the converter connect?
@@jordanwichser8037 The other wire on my laser is ground , just hook it to any place on the steel frame.
Hey Dave, i messaged you some months ago about installing a laser on my sawmill. Im wondering if you have had any problems with your mill since you installed your laser. I recently received my new LT40 and installed a laser on it using the same process as you and the H bridge has now went bad for the second time. Im not sure if it has anything to do with the laser. It ran fine last week even with the laser on. Thanks buddy
I apologize for any delays in getting back to you. Sometimes I don't get comments and, sometimes, I see a comment that disappears (forever) before I can respond.
Sorry but I don't know what an "H bridge" is. What I used was a cheap 12VDC to 3VDC power supply (converter) I got on Amazon. For 12 volt power I connected the wire to a spare, fused, terminal in the control station. I also decided to run a separate 2 conductor cable from the control station to the laser because that's the way I did it in my old job.
I have had ZERO issues with the laser since installation.................well.............except my dust chute cut the cable once. My email is tomats100 at gmail.
Dave
Where did you get the yellow cable and the transformer? Also, how did you connect to the 12v battery? I enjoy watching your videos. Thanks a lot
Thank you for the comment. I'll try to answer the questions so that it makes sense.
Everything should be available at automationdirect.com. You can also try Amazon.
1. The cable is an M12 sensor cable with male and female connectors. They are available with 2-5 wires; you need at least 2 wires. You will need to determine the length of the cable (the cables are available in lengths of 2-30 meters).
2. At the control station you will need a female bulkhead fitting for the cable (above) to plug into. These usually have 5 pins. You would use pin 1 for DC power and pin 3 for DC common (ground).
3. The DC to DC converter takes 12VDC in and converts it to a lower voltage. The output can be between 3.5 and 5 VDC to make it easier to find a converter.
4. There was a spare circuit breaker in the control head that I used for my 12VDC power source.
I'm thinking I should do an update video on this that shows more detail.
Good luck.
Dave
Thank you for the directions sir. I do have another question. As far as the sensor cable goes, can I use a solid cable running from the control box to the laser that doesn't have the male and female connector?
@@danielgreenwood3998 I used a multiconductor cable because that's the "proper" way of doing it. I recently saw a video where someone connected the laser "ground" wire to the mill frame and then ran a single power wire from the power source; just like auto wiring. It's cheaper and easier.
Good luck.
Dave (not sir)
Dave what is the right size bracket to order 16mm?
Here is the link to the BRH mount (available in many sizes). When there select 16mm.
www.apinex.com/ret2/brhan.html
Dave what's the advantage of these lasers everyone's installing on their mill's?
Ever heard of an "ironing board flitch"? You get them when your blade isn't low enough on the non-straight log and it exits the log part way down. The piece looks like an ironing board and is a total waste of time, fuel, blade wear etc. Watch some of my videos and you'll see what I mean.
With a properly aimed line laser you can see the blade's path BEFORE you start the cut and then you can make adjustments so that you get a full cut.
I hope this answers your question.
Dave
you didn't show it working after the installation !!!
There's a very good explanation. I haven't used the mill since.
THAT sucks. I may have to wait until spring.
That'll suck more.
It's also not necessary 😕
Sorry but I don't understand. What isn't necessary?
Dave
@@TheOldManAndTheSaw adding a laser, like the led lights that make my Harley Davidson glow, it's just fancy window dressing, nice but not necessary "/
@@TheOldManAndTheSaw I plan on removing the led lights from my Harley ")
@@cancelchannel3394 The laser is used to align the blade height with the desired cut path. This is VERY helpful in accurate milling.
I can use the money it cost to purchase more important equipment, like a winch to pull the logs up on the bunks, a peavy to roll the log over, a cant hook, things that are a major necessity "/