Hey Ironclad RC, Thank you so much for the how to videos you put out; super useful. I've had my Pro Boat Stealthwake for 3 years now. It has been upgraded to brushless electronics and it rips. HOWEVER, I've had a big leaking problem with my boat. I'm new to this channel, and I'm not sure if you own a Stealthwake 23, but I'll give you a rundown on what's going on. The stuffing tube goes through the back of the boat, not under like the blackjack 42. The driveshaft is not a flex shaft, it's a straight metal rod that connects to the drive strut on one end, and the prop is secured by a locknut on the other end. On the outside the black paint seals the driveshaft, preventing it from moving back & forth. On the inside of the boat there is a half triangle shaped piece of foam that keeps the water from getting in. The stuffing tube somehow came loose and water is leaking through the back and around the outside of the stuffing tube while driving the boat, and the piece of foam is soaking wet. Is there a solution to keep the water from leaking through the stuffing tube and into the boat???
Unfortunately I don't own a stealth wake, I'd pressurize the cooling system with a squeeze bottle check for leaks in the cooling lines and water jacket, if there are no leaks you know it's the boat hull or thru hull it self.
Hey big b , could be just my bad eyesight, but it looked like there was zero gap between your drive dog and the strut bushing. You should have about a 3mm gap there. Im shure you know the flex shafts shrink in length under power, and if its to short....snap
Thanks brother.,1/4" doesn't shrink as much as a .130 or .150 cable I was running a 3mm gap, it was actually doing more harm than good, putting more load on the motor bearings (radial loading, could be wrong terminology?) The thrust from the prop pushing the driveline up into the motor loading the front bearing. Thrust washers will solve the problem so your able to leave a gap without loading the motor bearings
Thanks BigB!. On the stuffing tube, it still looks like alot of "pre-installed kink" from the factory, even after you bent it back to fit the strut better. I think it's still a bit much tho' . Have a new tube coming to try to remove a big part of the factory kink. That radius should be smoother, especially with a teflon lined tube. Mark the center of the factory bend before "flexing" it back into a smoother radius, for those that want to try. Make that a bit more gradual with careful manipulation. More speed and free rpms from a smoother transition to the strut housing.. Once this factory stuff cant take it anymore, off to Speedmaster for the HD 3/16 , or, 1/4" drive bits, and a tube inside of a tube configure. A buddy with a CNC will thin the strut to fit. Also going to use a round body Speedmaster strut, and have him cut a thin "flat" on the very bottom for some adjustable lift. The brass tube inside of a brass tube stuff configure is not so bad when you want to change it out. You can remove the green loctite (interference fit loctite) that you glued the inner tube in with, by dead shorting the inner brass liner tube on each end with a car battery and jumper cables, so long as you have enough inner liner tube for the mini/maxy jumper leads to catch the ends. Once it's starts smoking from the dead short,,,yank the inner tube out of the main stuff tube, from whichever end it easier. Don't burn yourself and don't cook your battery off. Might need a rifle cleaning brush to clear the main stuff tube, for the new stuff tube to go back into more easily.
Am a newbie on RC Boats therefore, there are many questions that lingered. One question is: Is it necessary to lubricate the stuffing tube? The stuffing tube OD is 8mm and the shaft (rigid) D is 4mm, no teflon liner. There are bearings on both ends of the stuffing tube. If it does necessary to lubricate the stuffing tube, what lubrication agent is prefered? Automotive grade grease or white lithium grease? Thank you in advance for your answer.
Thanks to your channel. I purchased the BJ42. I did the removal of the flex cable and greased everything, however after I reinstalled the flex cable and connected it to the collet, as I rev up the boat to circulate the grease, the stuffing tube liner becomes visible up to the collet. Should the liner be visible at the collet? I slid it back into the tube but as I rev up it seems to keep slide back up to the collet. How do I fix it?
The Teflon liner shouldn't move that much, I usually use a very small amount of e600 or Marine adhesive of some kind on the Teflon liner, unfortunately you'll need to remove the liner from the stuffing tube. Just so you know, I've run boats for months with a spinning liner with out issue..
Hey bud, bought my first boat about a month ago and then found your channel, any time i have a question i come to your channel and your videos first, that being said you have any tips for tuning a boat for slightly ruff water? Iv got a probaot ul-19 and my tune is close to what i want but i cant get this wierd hop out. I dont want to call it porpoising cause i dosnt look like what people consider porpoiseing, iv messed with my turn fin and my prop shaft angle but i just cant seem to get that little bit more stability i know is there. Much thanks, keep up the kickass vids
Have you tried rudder canter (the bottom of rudder tiped back or forward) usually canted back will lift the bow just a tad for choppy conditions also helps in a turn. Weight distribution is key with a hydro. Also prop sizes will affect the ride of the boat, try different props. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
Love your videos but the older video explaining strut bushing and drive dog placement can be miss leading to the placement in this video. I see now the shaft doesn't shrink as much and therefore doesn't need that extra gap.
Hey ironclad, thank you for the informative videos! I just got a blackjack 42 and am having an issue that i can’t get past. When i got the boat, i took out the flex shaft and greased it up and installed it. Whenever i have it throttle above like 25%. It would vibrate super violently and loud. It pulled the lining in the stuffing tube up towards the locking collect attached to the motor. I got a brand new flex shaft and stuffing tube. Greased it. Installed it exactly how it should be. Same thing. Violent vibration and looks like it pulls the lining of the stuffing tube up towards the motor out of the stuffing tube a little bit. No idea how to fix this. I have never been able to run the boat. Any thoughts at all would be helpful.
Take the prop off and run the boat with out the prop if it stops the vibration it's the prop (needs to be balanced) if theres still vibration in the drive line pull the Teflon liner apply a little bit of silicone sealant to the outside of the linner reinstall that should keep the Teflon liner in place. Hope this helps
@@IRONCLADRC happens with no prop. Seems obvious to pull that liner out and glue it in. Just did that; thank you. Keep up the good content on the channel, appreciate your work!
I have never seen this piece on any rc boat before, i assume it serves to prevent the water from getting back into the boat. Is it really for that? If not, what is it for?
Big B, watching your videos has put me out front. Thanx for the tt&t!
Hey Ironclad RC, Thank you so much for the how to videos you put out; super useful. I've had my Pro Boat Stealthwake for 3 years now. It has been upgraded to brushless electronics and it rips. HOWEVER, I've had a big leaking problem with my boat. I'm new to this channel, and I'm not sure if you own a Stealthwake 23, but I'll give you a rundown on what's going on. The stuffing tube goes through the back of the boat, not under like the blackjack 42. The driveshaft is not a flex shaft, it's a straight metal rod that connects to the drive strut on one end, and the prop is secured by a locknut on the other end. On the outside the black paint seals the driveshaft, preventing it from moving back & forth. On the inside of the boat there is a half triangle shaped piece of foam that keeps the water from getting in. The stuffing tube somehow came loose and water is leaking through the back and around the outside of the stuffing tube while driving the boat, and the piece of foam is soaking wet. Is there a solution to keep the water from leaking through the stuffing tube and into the boat???
Unfortunately I don't own a stealth wake, I'd pressurize the cooling system with a squeeze bottle check for leaks in the cooling lines and water jacket, if there are no leaks you know it's the boat hull or thru hull it self.
Hey big b , could be just my bad eyesight, but it looked like there was zero gap between your drive dog and the strut bushing. You should have about a 3mm gap there. Im shure you know the flex shafts shrink in length under power, and if its to short....snap
Thanks brother.,1/4" doesn't shrink as much as a .130 or .150 cable I was running a 3mm gap, it was actually doing more harm than good, putting more load on the motor bearings (radial loading, could be wrong terminology?) The thrust from the prop pushing the driveline up into the motor loading the front bearing. Thrust washers will solve the problem so your able to leave a gap without loading the motor bearings
Thanks BigB!. On the stuffing tube, it still looks like alot of "pre-installed kink" from the factory, even after you bent it back to fit the strut better. I think it's still a bit much tho' . Have a new tube coming to try to remove a big part of the factory kink. That radius should be smoother, especially with a teflon lined tube. Mark the center of the factory bend before "flexing" it back into a smoother radius, for those that want to try. Make that a bit more gradual with careful manipulation. More speed and free rpms from a smoother transition to the strut housing.. Once this factory stuff cant take it anymore, off to Speedmaster for the HD 3/16 , or, 1/4" drive bits, and a tube inside of a tube configure. A buddy with a CNC will thin the strut to fit. Also going to use a round body Speedmaster strut, and have him cut a thin "flat" on the very bottom for some adjustable lift.
The brass tube inside of a brass tube stuff configure is not so bad when you want to change it out. You can remove the green loctite (interference fit loctite) that you glued the inner tube in with, by dead shorting the inner brass liner tube on each end with a car battery and jumper cables, so long as you have enough inner liner tube for the mini/maxy jumper leads to catch the ends. Once it's starts smoking from the dead short,,,yank the inner tube out of the main stuff tube, from whichever end it easier. Don't burn yourself and don't cook your battery off. Might need a rifle cleaning brush to clear the main stuff tube, for the new stuff tube to go back into more easily.
I've since installed a flat bottom speed master strut .250 flex 1/4 shaft reduced to 3/16 w/o a liner no issues whatsoever zero..
Hey bro, seems youre enjoying much.
Am a newbie on RC Boats therefore, there are many questions that lingered. One question is: Is it necessary to lubricate the stuffing tube? The stuffing tube OD is 8mm and the shaft (rigid) D is 4mm, no teflon liner. There are bearings on both ends of the stuffing tube. If it does necessary to lubricate the stuffing tube, what lubrication agent is prefered? Automotive grade grease or white lithium grease? Thank you in advance for your answer.
Thank you very much.
Thanks to your channel. I purchased the BJ42. I did the removal of the flex cable and greased everything, however after I reinstalled the flex cable and connected it to the collet, as I rev up the boat to circulate the grease, the stuffing tube liner becomes visible up to the collet. Should the liner be visible at the collet? I slid it back into the tube but as I rev up it seems to keep slide back up to the collet. How do I fix it?
The Teflon liner shouldn't move that much, I usually use a very small amount of e600 or Marine adhesive of some kind on the Teflon liner, unfortunately you'll need to remove the liner from the stuffing tube. Just so you know, I've run boats for months with a spinning liner with out issue..
Hey bud, bought my first boat about a month ago and then found your channel, any time i have a question i come to your channel and your videos first, that being said you have any tips for tuning a boat for slightly ruff water? Iv got a probaot ul-19 and my tune is close to what i want but i cant get this wierd hop out. I dont want to call it porpoising cause i dosnt look like what people consider porpoiseing, iv messed with my turn fin and my prop shaft angle but i just cant seem to get that little bit more stability i know is there.
Much thanks, keep up the kickass vids
Have you tried rudder canter (the bottom of rudder tiped back or forward) usually canted back will lift the bow just a tad for choppy conditions also helps in a turn. Weight distribution is key with a hydro. Also prop sizes will affect the ride of the boat, try different props. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
Love your videos but the older video explaining strut bushing and drive dog placement can be miss leading to the placement in this video. I see now the shaft doesn't shrink as much and therefore doesn't need that extra gap.
Hi do have a video in the gas strut tube set up
No sir I don't sorry brother
Ya buddy 😎 👍
Hey ironclad, thank you for the informative videos! I just got a blackjack 42 and am having an issue that i can’t get past. When i got the boat, i took out the flex shaft and greased it up and installed it. Whenever i have it throttle above like 25%. It would vibrate super violently and loud. It pulled the lining in the stuffing tube up towards the locking collect attached to the motor. I got a brand new flex shaft and stuffing tube. Greased it. Installed it exactly how it should be. Same thing. Violent vibration and looks like it pulls the lining of the stuffing tube up towards the motor out of the stuffing tube a little bit. No idea how to fix this. I have never been able to run the boat. Any thoughts at all would be helpful.
Take the prop off and run the boat with out the prop if it stops the vibration it's the prop (needs to be balanced) if theres still vibration in the drive line pull the Teflon liner apply a little bit of silicone sealant to the outside of the linner reinstall that should keep the Teflon liner in place. Hope this helps
@@IRONCLADRC happens with no prop. Seems obvious to pull that liner out and glue it in. Just did that; thank you. Keep up the good content on the channel, appreciate your work!
@@IRONCLADRC man still not working. I just put a video on my channel showing the problem, do you mind taking a look when you have a some time?
Can you run a boat without the plastic Teflon inner tube
Yes sir you can, best when run with the correct stuffing tube size.
@IRONCLADRC I ask this because my new sonicwake 36 v2 the Teflon tube cam out on the motorcode and shred in little peaces so.i removed it completely.
How long does the ptfe liners last.
I've run upwards 25-30 packs on any given liner. If you keep things greased and oiled, it should last a long while.
What the name of this piece (little box) openned in the begin of the flaxshaft at 0:43 for dont enter water in the boat?
I have never seen this piece on any rc boat before, i assume it serves to prevent the water from getting back into the boat. Is it really for that? If not, what is it for?
Grease catch basically. To prevent driveline lube/gease from Slinging all-over the boat.
I thought you don't use liners?
I don't like using liners, some struts are set up so you gotta run a liner. I'd say my fleet is 50/50 w/ & w/o liners
Whats the dia of the flex shaft
1/4" flex
@@IRONCLADRC tnx😀