Even Aquacraft used to offer an add on air dam for their UL-1 Superior hydro, that had a habit of taking off. This was also a simple piece of 1/2" x 1/2" plastic angle that was stuck across the underside of the tunnel with double sided tape & worked well allowing higher speeds to be reached. Quick story with a speed guy a few years back on Offshore Electrics Forum, he built many fast boats inc deep V's & cats & was very successfull. He then built a carbon 26" cat way over powered with either a TP4060 motor or simular sized Neu motor to run on 4s. Boat was blistering fast but would take off ever time on glass water around 83mph, he tried all the normal things like cg adjustment, strut angles, different rudders. Could't stop it lifting at low 80's, I told him to try an air dam made from a piece of 1/4" dowl stuck across the tunnel 2" in from front. With no other changes to the boat on the same water he got 92mph with the boat glued to the water, I think he went on to get around 94mph on 4s.
Great video. Remember that wing in front would act just like an upside-down wing on an airplane. I don't think it would take too much angle to work. Keep it towards the deck so it doesn't scoop water at slow speeds. I'm interested how this works.
You can make a very simple but effective air dam which breaks up the air flow entering the tunnel. Some simply use either a piece of round dowl or a piece of plastic angle hanging down, either method runs right across the tunnel &sits around 2" back from the front of the tunnel. you can either glue this or even tape the dam to the hull. I know someone that even taped a drinking straw across the tunnel because he was having problems with lifting the front at a records meet. He taped the straw on, boat stayed planted & set new record. Dead simple to try by just taping something on 2" in from front of the tunnel.
Big B I like that idea I'm going to try that on my Blackjack 29 ,here's something I've wanted to try is using a plastic prop that I've modified to see if ESC temperatures and motor temperatures will drop ? 🤔 love the channel you showed me a few helpful things that I've used ! Thanks 👍
Great video man I also love working with my hands and your craftsmanship is top notch 👍🏼💪🏼 Liked commented and subscribed brother. Keep the awesome vids commin 👍🏼
Great video Big B I like that idea about the wing. Adding some extra downforce to the front end is definitely a great idea. Some active gyro stabilization to that wing imagine what that could do? "🤔 Horizon" has a sale starting on the 17th. Thanks Big B.
I'm very curious to see where you go with the front canard. I was thinking of making one for my all-wood cat that has a tendency to blow over at high speeds even when it's set up to run wet. My boat is really light; it's 31.5 inches in length and almost a full pound lighter than the ProBoat Veles 29. It's a wide body, which is great for cornering, but the extra width gives the hull a kite-like effect. I was actually thinking of mounting the wing on the front of the deck - not between the sponsons like you're thinking of doing. Front canards (wings) are not legal for sanctioned racing, but who cares. Some may argue that there are more efficient ways to tune the boat without a wing, but again who cares what others think. It's fun to experiment, and if it helps the boat stay planted in the water, then it's a worthwhile mod. Cheers brotha!
I may do the front kanard I may not. If I do it's definitely gonna to be removable. Ose has a motley crew air foil/front winglet that may work on your skatter? www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=hug-motley-lucas Just got back from a speed run. omg what ever I did worked. Lol.
@@IRONCLADRC You did a lot of stuff to your BJ 42. Maybe all that filing you did to the strut paid off. Or it could be something as simple as the water conditions and wind were perfect for running at that time. In either case, I can't wait to see the video.
Just thinking instead of front downforce what about rear up force? Then possibly be able run the strut more upwards to drive the front down? Instead of adding extra drag to bring the front of the boat down you can possibly bring the rear up and nose the front down while making the boat aerodynamically lighter? And be able to run the strut more up to balance it out? Idk just a thought but I like both ideas. But there is something to think about.
If the prop is running on the surface, then by definition, the strut "bar" will be out of the water. In theory, you should be riding on that flat spot like a water ski with everything else out of the water. This theory is based on glass-smooth water, so take it with a grain of salt. Surface piercing objects have flat trailing edges to allow air into the "gap" created by the wedge rudder/strut/turn fin/whatever as it moves through the water. Air going into that open space creates less drag than moving the already spread apart water molecules back together. That's why surface piercing rudders and blades have flat trailing edges. Everything changes when there's no air to fill in the gaps, so underwater rudders (think NAVIGA, ECO and the like) are shaped like your strut bar example. The only time a flat trailing edge on the strut bar will help you is when it is moving underwater with enough speed to open a gap in the water to fill with air. With the BJ42, that running regime lasts for a tenth of a second and instantly, the strut bar is out of the water and flying through the air. At best, it should only see some occasional spray. Your airfoil cross-section will actually provide better performance for moving through the air, but any real gain will be small. It's the little things that add up, and while on its own, this may not make a huge difference in performance. But when added to all the other "tiny" tweaks, the sum becomes quite substantial. Next, the BJ 42 is a REALLY big boat. You may want to consider a nylon bolt for the rudder bracket in lieu of a zip tie. Zip ties are fine for smaller stuff, but this is another level, and energy goes up directly with mass, and with the square of the speed. When you are Big and Fast (and flipping end over end at 75mph), there's a lot of load going on back there........ And finally, the canard wing is a great idea. Here's a thought: Make it moveable and use a gyro-activated servo to sense a change in attitude and provide the appropriate control input to counteract whatever the boat is experiencing. Do not go thinking of it as a wing, it won't work right with all the other stuff going on aerodynamically. Instead, treat it like a leading edge slat with the concave surface on the down side and close to the hull leading edge at the tunnel with an appropriate gap between them. Search the Internet for drawings of "leading edge slats" to see what I mean.
Every one has there opinion, your probably right doc... but, the strut is in the water more than you'd think especially on this 42. All I know is I just busted my old pb wide open with my new modifications. C'mon. So what ever I did worked 💪
@@IRONCLADRC I said it would help and the theory needs a grain of salt as it assumes a glass-flat surface. But if the strut bottom is slightly above the sponson bottoms, and the sponson bottom is just skimming the surface, how could the strut blade be below the water surface for any appreciable time? Just thinking aloud here..... I don't know the answer. Maybe some slo-mo high speed CLOSE passes???
@@IRONCLADRC What works, works. I'm not the one to tell YOU how to do it. You're doing a great job, so keep it up. I just tend to think aloud; as I said.... The words "What If...." constantly run through my mind.
Like the idea of the canard. You should figure out how to put a micro servo on ch 3 and connect it to the canard so you can adjust on the fly. Seriously! With you skills, it should be a piece of cake.
Idk there may not be enough force but with the water speeding up it may push the front of the prop and help it spin faster. Kinda like spraying a fan blade with a water hose. But again not sure of how much force it will actually apply. ONLY 1 WAY TO FIND OUT!!!
Hey, curious about the zip tie in the rudder. I just lost the little plastic piece that goes there and was wondering if the zip tie in its place is a fix for it or does the little clear plastic piece need to be there for it to function properly?
@@IRONCLADRC Haha okay awesome! I’m glad that’s all that it is. I was worried I lost a major component and had to go buy a whole rudder kit for that piece lol! New to boating so I appreciate the quick response and info on it! Thanks! Great vid by the way! 😁
could you make a video on how you added the second cooling line? just coped a black jack 42 from my local hobby shop sense it was on sale for 510$ saw the 2nd outlet on the rutter and wanted to see what i have to do
HEY THERE ...!!! I just have a quick question...can I use this esc for my vector sr80-pro boat...🤔🤔Boats > Parts > Replacement Parts > Pro Boat > Part# SPMXME1A Spektrum RC 100 Amp Brushless Marine ESC 3S-4S w/IC3🤔🤔thanks and keep up the GREAT WORK on your videos bro...👍👍⚓⚓😁😁
@@IRONCLADRC The esc has revese capabilities but the boat makers say they didn't make it that way because it has a flex shaft and that would make the system not good 😱😱I saw one with reverse no problems...so should I use it for emegency only and very slow as so it won't snap the flex shaft???or just not use the rev at all??? thanks...👍👍
Go to m5 performance. Great video on mounting a canard. Ultra light, adjustable and simple. Another great informative video. Thanks
I just checked out m5. Yes sir he's got loads of great ideas for active & non active kanards. Thanks brother.
Even Aquacraft used to offer an add on air dam for their UL-1 Superior hydro, that had a habit of taking off. This was also a simple piece of 1/2" x 1/2" plastic angle that was stuck across the underside of the tunnel with double sided tape & worked well allowing higher speeds to be reached. Quick story with a speed guy a few years back on Offshore Electrics Forum, he built many fast boats inc deep V's & cats & was very successfull. He then built a carbon 26" cat way over powered with either a TP4060 motor or simular sized Neu motor to run on 4s. Boat was blistering fast but would take off ever time on glass water around 83mph, he tried all the normal things like cg adjustment, strut angles, different rudders. Could't stop it lifting at low 80's, I told him to try an air dam made from a piece of 1/4" dowl stuck across the tunnel 2" in from front. With no other changes to the boat on the same water he got 92mph with the boat glued to the water, I think he went on to get around 94mph on 4s.
Wow 👌 that's a great success story, I'd have to agree brother the dowel, foam in my case actually helped. 94mph on 4s is insane. Wow 👌
Awesome work!
Great Video 👍
I like the idea of the front air dam but could you move the batteries farther forward still?
Great video. Remember that wing in front would act just like an upside-down wing on an airplane. I don't think it would take too much angle to work. Keep it towards the deck so it doesn't scoop water at slow speeds. I'm interested how this works.
Thanks for the input, I agree closer to the deck may be better thanks again 👍
You can make a very simple but effective air dam which breaks up the air flow entering the tunnel. Some simply use either a piece of round dowl or a piece of plastic angle hanging down, either method runs right across the tunnel &sits around 2" back from the front of the tunnel. you can either glue this or even tape the dam to the hull. I know someone that even taped a drinking straw across the tunnel because he was having problems with lifting the front at a records meet. He taped the straw on, boat stayed planted & set new record. Dead simple to try by just taping something on 2" in from front of the tunnel.
I actually tried something kinda similar in my next video, sorta hard to explain, it's in tomorrow's upload. Thanks for the tips though very helpful..
Big B I like that idea I'm going to try that on my Blackjack 29 ,here's something I've wanted to try is using a plastic prop that I've modified to see if ESC temperatures and motor temperatures will drop ? 🤔 love the channel you showed me a few helpful things that I've used ! Thanks 👍
Yes sir your on the right track. Plastic props is a great way to feel out any particular prop size on any particular boat.
Great video man
I also love working with my hands and your craftsmanship is top notch 👍🏼💪🏼 Liked commented and subscribed brother. Keep the awesome vids commin 👍🏼
Thanks for the support I definitely appreciate it
Great video Big B I like that idea about the wing. Adding some extra downforce to the front end is definitely a great idea. Some active gyro stabilization to that wing imagine what that could do? "🤔 Horizon" has a sale starting on the 17th. Thanks Big B.
I'm very curious to see where you go with the front canard. I was thinking of making one for my all-wood cat that has a tendency to blow over at high speeds even when it's set up to run wet. My boat is really light; it's 31.5 inches in length and almost a full pound lighter than the ProBoat Veles 29. It's a wide body, which is great for cornering, but the extra width gives the hull a kite-like effect. I was actually thinking of mounting the wing on the front of the deck - not between the sponsons like you're thinking of doing. Front canards (wings) are not legal for sanctioned racing, but who cares. Some may argue that there are more efficient ways to tune the boat without a wing, but again who cares what others think. It's fun to experiment, and if it helps the boat stay planted in the water, then it's a worthwhile mod. Cheers brotha!
I may do the front kanard I may not. If I do it's definitely gonna to be removable. Ose has a motley crew air foil/front winglet that may work on your skatter?
www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=hug-motley-lucas
Just got back from a speed run. omg what ever I did worked. Lol.
@@IRONCLADRC You did a lot of stuff to your BJ 42. Maybe all that filing you did to the strut paid off. Or it could be something as simple as the water conditions and wind were perfect for running at that time. In either case, I can't wait to see the video.
Also I thought you were talking about how you made that on a 3-D printer at first lol
Oh man I wish I could design a strut like that. 👍
Just thinking instead of front downforce what about rear up force? Then possibly be able run the strut more upwards to drive the front down? Instead of adding extra drag to bring the front of the boat down you can possibly bring the rear up and nose the front down while making the boat aerodynamically lighter? And be able to run the strut more up to balance it out? Idk just a thought but I like both ideas. But there is something to think about.
Looks awesome. Your going all out What would be better Frima 160 or OSE 150
For what boat? Well I guess it doesn't matter I'd go with the firma. She's a power house
It would add a small amount of weight. But adding servo to a front fin would allow you to fine tune it on the go. And would just be cool to see.
Wonder if a single micro servo would hold the winglet in place?
If the prop is running on the surface, then by definition, the strut "bar" will be out of the water. In theory, you should be riding on that flat spot like a water ski with everything else out of the water. This theory is based on glass-smooth water, so take it with a grain of salt. Surface piercing objects have flat trailing edges to allow air into the "gap" created by the wedge rudder/strut/turn fin/whatever as it moves through the water. Air going into that open space creates less drag than moving the already spread apart water molecules back together. That's why surface piercing rudders and blades have flat trailing edges. Everything changes when there's no air to fill in the gaps, so underwater rudders (think NAVIGA, ECO and the like) are shaped like your strut bar example.
The only time a flat trailing edge on the strut bar will help you is when it is moving underwater with enough speed to open a gap in the water to fill with air. With the BJ42, that running regime lasts for a tenth of a second and instantly, the strut bar is out of the water and flying through the air. At best, it should only see some occasional spray. Your airfoil cross-section will actually provide better performance for moving through the air, but any real gain will be small.
It's the little things that add up, and while on its own, this may not make a huge difference in performance. But when added to all the other "tiny" tweaks, the sum becomes quite substantial.
Next, the BJ 42 is a REALLY big boat. You may want to consider a nylon bolt for the rudder bracket in lieu of a zip tie. Zip ties are fine for smaller stuff, but this is another level, and energy goes up directly with mass, and with the square of the speed. When you are Big and Fast (and flipping end over end at 75mph), there's a lot of load going on back there........
And finally, the canard wing is a great idea. Here's a thought: Make it moveable and use a gyro-activated servo to sense a change in attitude and provide the appropriate control input to counteract whatever the boat is experiencing. Do not go thinking of it as a wing, it won't work right with all the other stuff going on aerodynamically. Instead, treat it like a leading edge slat with the concave surface on the down side and close to the hull leading edge at the tunnel with an appropriate gap between them. Search the Internet for drawings of "leading edge slats" to see what I mean.
Every one has there opinion, your probably right doc... but, the strut is in the water more than you'd think especially on this 42. All I know is I just busted my old pb wide open with my new modifications. C'mon. So what ever I did worked 💪
@@IRONCLADRC I said it would help and the theory needs a grain of salt as it assumes a glass-flat surface. But if the strut bottom is slightly above the sponson bottoms, and the sponson bottom is just skimming the surface, how could the strut blade be below the water surface for any appreciable time? Just thinking aloud here..... I don't know the answer. Maybe some slo-mo high speed CLOSE passes???
I understand what your say doc. On the 42 I'm running my strut deeper than what you think, quite a bit deeper.
@@IRONCLADRC What works, works. I'm not the one to tell YOU how to do it. You're doing a great job, so keep it up. I just tend to think aloud; as I said.... The words "What If...." constantly run through my mind.
I'm curious about the front wing
Like the idea of the canard. You should figure out how to put a micro servo on ch 3 and connect it to the canard so you can adjust on the fly. Seriously! With you skills, it should be a piece of cake.
I'm seriously considering it shoot I've got everything I need laying around the shop. Hmmmm. We will see
@@IRONCLADRC hmmm, I’m noodling it. Not sure where to place the servo. In the sponson? Brain in overload, no smoke 😂
Idk there may not be enough force but with the water speeding up it may push the front of the prop and help it spin faster. Kinda like spraying a fan blade with a water hose. But again not sure of how much force it will actually apply. ONLY 1 WAY TO FIND OUT!!!
Hey, curious about the zip tie in the rudder.
I just lost the little plastic piece that goes there and was wondering if the zip tie in its place is a fix for it or does the little clear plastic piece need to be there for it to function properly?
I've used everything from zip ties, weed Wacker line, and antenna tubes as breakaways, lol.
@@IRONCLADRC Haha okay awesome! I’m glad that’s all that it is.
I was worried I lost a major component and had to go buy a whole rudder kit for that piece lol!
New to boating so I appreciate the quick response and info on it! Thanks! Great vid by the way! 😁
could you make a video on how you added the second cooling line? just coped a black jack 42 from my local hobby shop sense it was on sale for 510$ saw the 2nd outlet on the rutter and wanted to see what i have to do
I will try brother
@@IRONCLADRC thanks man love your videos btw!
On the sonic wake you should look into rcboatbitz at their dual trim tab set up just got mine and ran the boat they are awsome
Those are some nice looking trimtabs from rcbb they should Give ya a bit of extra tuning? I'll definitely give them a thought. Thanks
HEY THERE ...!!! I just have a quick question...can I use this esc for my vector sr80-pro boat...🤔🤔Boats > Parts > Replacement Parts > Pro Boat > Part# SPMXME1A
Spektrum RC 100 Amp Brushless Marine ESC 3S-4S w/IC3🤔🤔thanks and keep up the GREAT WORK on your videos bro...👍👍⚓⚓😁😁
Yea I don't see why not? It should work fine!
@@IRONCLADRC The esc has revese capabilities but the boat makers say they didn't make it that way because it has a flex shaft and that would make the system not good 😱😱I saw one with reverse no problems...so should I use it for emegency only and very slow as so it won't snap the flex shaft???or just not use the rev at all??? thanks...👍👍
You’re just like me, when I start with my 42 I can’t stop, I get hooked on if
Glad I'm not the only one. Lol. I was starting to think that I may have to start going to AAA OR (BAA)
@@IRONCLADRC it’s just something about it, every time I reach my goal I want more and then it’s like a domino effect hahaha
Vietnam
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