I’ve been looking for a video like this as I had an ac like this that would run the fan continuously, which I thought was annoying. However, I found another problem with ACs that have their fans run continuously. A hygrometer (part of a digital temperature/humidity display) led me to this discovery which for the longest time puzzled me. While the compressor was running and the room was getting colder, the humidity would decrease. I knew that lower temperature air can hold less water vapor than warmer temps that a decrease in relative humidity meant that the unit was pulling a lot of moisture out of the air. However, as soon as the compressor cut off, the humidity spiked immediately, sometimes by as much as 20%. It took me a while to figure out what was going on, but what was happening is the condensation that had collected on the evaporator coils was getting reevaporated and blown back into the room. If the fan shut down when the compressor stopped it would have had time to drip to the outside. While it is true you waste a tiny bit of (sensible) cooling by not allowing the fan to at least run a few minutes at the end of the compressor cycle. (Also, you waste a little bit of sensible cooling as the reevaporation of this condensate essentially acts like a swamp cooler) it’s doing this at the expense of latent cooling (aka dehumidification). Having your room’s humidity at 45% instead of 65% allows you to set the thermostat a few degrees higher and still be (even more) comfortable. The alternative is also running a dehumidifier but in addition to the extra power usage, a dehumidifier swaps out latent heat for sensible heat, which then means you have to run your ac more…so even more electricity is used. By the way, instead of doing all this I just used a smart plug controlled by a temperature sensor. Also, I haven’t had any issues with it freezing up.
Word to the wise... one of the reasons the fan runs after turning off the compressor is to pull all of the cold from system after each cycle. This ensures you get to make use of all the cooling, but it also helps to ensure the AC doesn't ice over. If you turn off the fan as soon as the compressor turns off, you're not only wasting that last bit of cooling, but you could wind up with an iced-up / blocked unit. Maybe. Might. Your mileage may vary.
I’ve been looking for a video like this as I had an ac like this that would run the fan continuously, which I thought was annoying. However, I found another problem with ACs that have their fans run continuously. A hygrometer (part of a digital temperature/humidity display) led me to this discovery which for the longest time puzzled me. While the compressor was running and the room was getting colder, the humidity would decrease. I knew that lower temperature air can hold less water vapor than warmer temps that a decrease in relative humidity meant that the unit was pulling a lot of moisture out of the air. However, as soon as the compressor cut off, the humidity spiked immediately, sometimes by as much as 20%. It took me a while to figure out what was going on, but what was happening is the condensation that had collected on the evaporator coils was getting reevaporated and blown back into the room. If the fan shut down when the compressor stopped it would have had time to drip to the outside. While it is true you waste a tiny bit of (sensible) cooling by not allowing the fan to at least run a few minutes at the end of the compressor cycle. (Also, you waste a little bit of sensible cooling as the reevaporation of this condensate essentially acts like a swamp cooler) it’s doing this at the expense of latent cooling (aka dehumidification). Having your room’s humidity at 45% instead of 65% allows you to set the thermostat a few degrees higher and still be (even more) comfortable. The alternative is also running a dehumidifier but in addition to the extra power usage, a dehumidifier swaps out latent heat for sensible heat, which then means you have to run your ac more…so even more electricity is used. By the way, instead of doing all this I just used a smart plug controlled by a temperature sensor. Also, I haven’t had any issues with it freezing up.
Hi! I would like to know if the temperature on A/C's display is the temperature of air coming out of vent or the holding temperature? I'm asking this because I own two Frigidaire window A/C units (10,000 BTU & 12,000 BTU) and, in both of them the temperature on the display seem to be the temperature of air coming out of vent... I mean, the higher the set of the temperature, the warmer the air coming out of the vent is! By the way, do you know if Frigidaire window Air Conditioners are inverter A/C's or non-inverter? (I purchased my units about 8 years ago... but they still are in very good condition) Thanks!
The thermostat should display the set temperature that you want the system to get to, usually when you are adjusting the temperature on it, it will display the temperature you set it at for a few seconds then it will display the actual room temperature. And no I wouldn't say that your Window units are inverter driven. Inverter driven Air conditioning system's use a motor speed control to control the speed of the compressor motor usually by a PWM or Pulse Width Modulation to control the refrigerant flow. Tho you can look up the model numbers on google on your AC units and see the specifications on them and the features they have and if they are inverter based systems
Let’s get this straight.. there are 2 main components in an air conditioner. A compressor and a fan. When just the compressor turns on in a inverter You’d hear a very very very faint high pitch soft weeeee noise.. but its unlikely a inverter if it’s 10 years old.. non-inverter units also make a loud kinda thump then buzzing and sound kinda loud when they run which is the compressor pumping refrigeration through a set of copper coils. A fan then blows air around the cold coils making the air cold.You cannot change the temperature of the air coming out of the unit if it isn’t a inverter. Try a mini split. They are very efficient.. and guess what?? They’re inverter systems. look it up. Inverter systems have a board inside the air conditioner that convert the electricity inside the air conditioner from 120v AC to 24v DC. There is another circuit board that makes the air conditioner variable speed..
Ok so I'm an electrician and also an HVAC guy licensed in both so hows this sound why not just hook up a 24v to 120 volt contactor ( relay) that would control an outlet that the air unit is plugged into way more simple then all of this that your doing however I wonder if when the unit is turned completely off and this would only pertain to a digital unit if it would remember its last settings
Mines digital(LG), if it loses power it doesn't come back on. I'm doing it to connect to an automation system. Though I miss the old analog window unit that it replaced, that thing would freeze your tits off.
Because in many cases like mine the electronic controls are bad but the compressor and fan are fine. So I need to replace the bad board with something better. Also window units get really cold at night. Something weird going on with their design. Probably since the thermostat and its sensor are right up against the evap coils. So I want to be able to control the unit with a regular home thermostat like this guy did.
I’ve been looking for a video like this as I had an ac like this that would run the fan continuously, which I thought was annoying. However, I found another problem with ACs that have their fans run continuously. A hygrometer (part of a digital temperature/humidity display) led me to this discovery which for the longest time puzzled me. While the compressor was running and the room was getting colder, the humidity would decrease. I knew that lower temperature air can hold less water vapor than warmer temps that a decrease in relative humidity meant that the unit was pulling a lot of moisture out of the air. However, as soon as the compressor cut off, the humidity spiked immediately, sometimes by as much as 20%. It took me a while to figure out what was going on, but what was happening is the condensation that had collected on the evaporator coils was getting reevaporated and blown back into the room. If the fan shut down when the compressor stopped it would have had time to drip to the outside.
While it is true you waste a tiny bit of (sensible) cooling by not allowing the fan to at least run a few minutes at the end of the compressor cycle. (Also, you waste a little bit of sensible cooling as the reevaporation of this condensate essentially acts like a swamp cooler) it’s doing this at the expense of latent cooling (aka dehumidification). Having your room’s humidity at 45% instead of 65% allows you to set the thermostat a few degrees higher and still be (even more) comfortable. The alternative is also running a dehumidifier but in addition to the extra power usage, a dehumidifier swaps out latent heat for sensible heat, which then means you have to run your ac more…so even more electricity is used.
By the way, instead of doing all this I just used a smart plug controlled by a temperature sensor. Also, I haven’t had any issues with it freezing up.
Word to the wise... one of the reasons the fan runs after turning off the compressor is to pull all of the cold from system after each cycle. This ensures you get to make use of all the cooling, but it also helps to ensure the AC doesn't ice over. If you turn off the fan as soon as the compressor turns off, you're not only wasting that last bit of cooling, but you could wind up with an iced-up / blocked unit. Maybe. Might. Your mileage may vary.
I’ve been looking for a video like this as I had an ac like this that would run the fan continuously, which I thought was annoying. However, I found another problem with ACs that have their fans run continuously. A hygrometer (part of a digital temperature/humidity display) led me to this discovery which for the longest time puzzled me. While the compressor was running and the room was getting colder, the humidity would decrease. I knew that lower temperature air can hold less water vapor than warmer temps that a decrease in relative humidity meant that the unit was pulling a lot of moisture out of the air. However, as soon as the compressor cut off, the humidity spiked immediately, sometimes by as much as 20%. It took me a while to figure out what was going on, but what was happening is the condensation that had collected on the evaporator coils was getting reevaporated and blown back into the room. If the fan shut down when the compressor stopped it would have had time to drip to the outside.
While it is true you waste a tiny bit of (sensible) cooling by not allowing the fan to at least run a few minutes at the end of the compressor cycle. (Also, you waste a little bit of sensible cooling as the reevaporation of this condensate essentially acts like a swamp cooler) it’s doing this at the expense of latent cooling (aka dehumidification). Having your room’s humidity at 45% instead of 65% allows you to set the thermostat a few degrees higher and still be (even more) comfortable. The alternative is also running a dehumidifier but in addition to the extra power usage, a dehumidifier swaps out latent heat for sensible heat, which then means you have to run your ac more…so even more electricity is used.
By the way, instead of doing all this I just used a smart plug controlled by a temperature sensor. Also, I haven’t had any issues with it freezing up.
Your evaporator will ice up if the fan stops running. It’s made to draw in warm room air to defrost itself.
That was exactly what I was looking for. Not only will this save my current ac but probably another one that I have that has a bad control board
Hi! I would like to know if the temperature on A/C's display is the temperature of air coming out of vent or the holding temperature? I'm asking this because I own two Frigidaire window A/C units (10,000 BTU & 12,000 BTU) and, in both of them the temperature on the display seem to be the temperature of air coming out of vent... I mean, the higher the set of the temperature, the warmer the air coming out of the vent is!
By the way, do you know if Frigidaire window Air Conditioners are inverter A/C's or non-inverter? (I purchased my units about 8 years ago... but they still are in very good condition)
Thanks!
The thermostat should display the set temperature that you want the system to get to, usually when you are adjusting the temperature on it, it will display the temperature you set it at for a few seconds then it will display the actual room temperature. And no I wouldn't say that your Window units are inverter driven. Inverter driven Air conditioning system's use a motor speed control to control the speed of the compressor motor usually by a PWM or Pulse Width Modulation to control the refrigerant flow. Tho you can look up the model numbers on google on your AC units and see the specifications on them and the features they have and if they are inverter based systems
Let’s get this straight.. there are 2 main components in an air conditioner. A compressor and a fan. When just the compressor turns on in a inverter You’d hear a very very very faint high pitch soft weeeee noise.. but its unlikely a inverter if it’s 10 years old.. non-inverter units also make a loud kinda thump then buzzing and sound kinda loud when they run which is the compressor pumping refrigeration through a set of copper coils. A fan then blows air around the cold coils making the air cold.You cannot change the temperature of the air coming out of the unit if it isn’t a inverter. Try a mini split. They are very efficient.. and guess what?? They’re inverter systems. look it up. Inverter systems have a board inside the air conditioner that convert the electricity inside the air conditioner from 120v AC to 24v DC. There is another circuit board that makes the air conditioner variable speed..
I put nest thermostat removed all motherboard and old controls added just 2 part contactor and 120 transformer now control from my phone
This might work but your facts are all out of wack
You dont even have to open the ac up to do this
Finally the only video I could find that shows how to wire it directly into the ac and not and extension cord
Ok so I'm an electrician and also an HVAC guy licensed in both so hows this sound why not just hook up a 24v to 120 volt contactor ( relay) that would control an outlet that the air unit is plugged into way more simple then all of this that your doing however I wonder if when the unit is turned completely off and this would only pertain to a digital unit if it would remember its last settings
Mines digital(LG), if it loses power it doesn't come back on. I'm doing it to connect to an automation system. Though I miss the old analog window unit that it replaced, that thing would freeze your tits off.
Because in many cases like mine the electronic controls are bad but the compressor and fan are fine. So I need to replace the bad board with something better. Also window units get really cold at night. Something weird going on with their design. Probably since the thermostat and its sensor are right up against the evap coils. So I want to be able to control the unit with a regular home thermostat like this guy did.