Chasing Deathwobble - Part 3: Assembling and (re) installing the fixed front axle - 1923 Ford Hotrod
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2021
- This video is part of the series of the introduction of a new toy (a 1923 Ford Model T "Bucket T" or "T Bucket" hot rod) I picked up and having to do some re-repair work on top of what the previous owner tried to do on the solid tube 4 inch drop axle. The fix involves sleeving with a 0.250" wall tube slug and MIG butt welding and plug welding (rosette welding) the halves back together. Also trying to replace some broken parts like the radius rods aka hairpins aka wishbones to remedy the death wobble. This video specifically is the reassembly and reinstallation of the fixed axle and corresponding components including the new radius rods and hardware.
Stuff from this video:
Chrome vinyl: amzn.to/3ifAaHj
Exhaust clamp: amzn.to/39K1oRN
Chrome shackle kit: amzn.to/3F3Im79
GPS Speedometer: amzn.to/39K0aWH
5/8" heim joints: amzn.to/3AgUCOO
Misalignment Spacers: amzn.to/39NhFW8
An angle finder tool: amzn.to/3CwWrrE
Clevis: www.speedwaymotors.com/Standa...
Radius arms: www.speedwaymotors.com/Chevy-... - Наука та технологія
I watched and I think you fixed the wobble. I'm no expert but I've seen a couple of videos on UA-cam where they were talking about and experiencing a wobble. They realized that they needed to install a panhard rod in the front due to the transverse leaf spring shackles were allowing too much side-to-side movement. But looking at your video looks like you resolved the problem.
Great video. I have a 33 Ford 3-window coupe that desperately needed a front spring swap and you gave me the incentive to get ‘er done. It took the wife and I about 4 hours to complete, but it pretty much went without a hitch. Thanks!
Minilathe sighting! This style of car doesn't really speak to me but I do enjoy this type of project.
It's obvious you are not a gear-head by trade... In a couple instances you chose to go the fast/easy way and not stop and go get the right bolt...removing a leaf spring just because your bolts weren't long enough? Geese! Plus I didn't see you check to make sure the axle was exactly 90 degrees of the frame center...plus when you did the toe I can see it will be way off. You have to put the tires on first and measure from the same tread point front and back. Measuring from the hub area will cause it to be off... a lot. I suggest you ask a lot of questions and watch a lot of videos before you do another project. The death wobble you had before was obviously from the (very) loose spring perch, the castor angle and toe-in/out. "Chrome will get you to the show but not home again" (unless you trailer it). You remind me of me...when I was a lot younger and thought I knew enough....but hey that's how we learn right? We never stop learning. IMO you just need to slow down and have more patience to do it right the first time. Lack of patience is what causes most people to give up on doing things they thought they could do. but if you find that you just don't have the patience for any particular thing then it's better to just walk away and let a pro do it for you. I've seen many street rod projects fail because the owner was in a hurry. I've seen front axles come apart while the owner was driving it...leaving him stuck in the middle of a busy intersection...all because it was done in a hurry with no knowledge of what to look for/ I've seen guys spend thousands of dollars on a new body design just to find out everyone thinks its ugly. All this video did (IMO) is show everyone your lack of knowledge/experience...sorry. "A wise man seeks wisdom, a fool thinks he knows enough".
I know I'm a year late but I'm worried about the lack of lubrication on the spindles and kingpins. I normally grease the hell out of the spindles and kingpins. You are missing a grease fitting on the driver's side kingpin and drove it without greasing - going to wear very fast. I also noticed that the driver's side brake hose is twisted - that could be a point of failure. I like to use anti-seize everywhere. The shackles should be lubricated also. As others have mentioned, the alignment will need to be redone once the wheels are on and on the ground. The difference of 1/8" for the toe-in at the spindles will be significantly more at the edge of the rim where it should be measured. The length of the bolt threads should be at least 1/2" extending out from the nut.
Good work.
You may find it necessary to install a Panhard rod up front.
The 28-41 early Ford front suspension is quite simple but for some reason the spring mounting in made up axles is about an inch narrower than it should be. Ford designed the suspension to have the springs, front or rear, mounted in tension (spread) to make a Panhard rod unnecessary. The spring would be attached to one side with a shackle, then spread to reach the other mount and the shackle installed. This makes the shackles sit level with the ground until the weight of the car is on the spring. Then the shackles drop to a 35 to 45 degree angle.
In 1942-48 the springs were mounted like yours, free of tension, which required the installation of Panhard bars, front and rear, to keep the frame from swinging on the shackles.
Glad you caught the ridiculous too short lock bolts in the kingpin knuckles. The things some people do!
The steering arm on the left spindle for the drag link has a tapered hole to use early Ford tie rod ends. The tapered stud is a good solution to convert to Heim joints. Another available option is a tapered ball stud used on 32-34 Fords to use the old style spring socket tie rod ends.
wow Tim I love that little car. I watched these videos in absolute entertainment. keep up the great work. From your pal Helcat in Australia.
I would have used the clamp fix. THen when anybody asked "It's what holds the front end together". lol Nice repair.
Get u a moon eyes sticker over the weld good idea 👀
There is a reason aircraft and racing parts are never chromed. I put a spring punch right through a beautiful, unused, but older chromed tube structure due to internal corrosion. Hydrogen embrittlement is also often discussed. Many poo-poo such talk but the broken axle and broken shackle bolt might mean something. Looks kinda like there is visible rust on that drag link. Perhaps just from rock chips but I’d go over the whole thing.
Another issue is hydrogen embrittlement. NASCAR and most race danctioning bodies nban chromed wheels. Now that is hard use where cracking is more prone.
I see you have a small block Chevy engine. One suggestion if I may is that not too many people know that if you use an AC Delco PF-932 oil filter, you can add an extra quart of oil to your capacity. PF-932 is a 2-quart version of the standard 1-quart type. It doesn't extend any lower than you oil pan.
hell ya number 1 baby
Apply your vinyl starting in the middle, with a bit of help from the heat gun you'll be able to avoid those wrinkles :-)
They also make chrome paint. The wrap looks bad.
Thank you for sharing your project and your car. I'm interested in the outcome regarding your speed wobble? If I may, I might offer some observations from other, older hot rod projects. Double check your caster angle and toe-in on flat ground, with it ready to drive at ride height. Others have commented on leaf spring lenght, so I won't. Yes. A panhard rod assembly could be of benefit, or you may look into using a "Dead Perch" on the driver's side as an alternative to the shackle?
When you're replacing the steering arms and tie rod. You may try reversing them so the tie rod is behind the axle, running between the radius rods. This could reinstate the "Ackerman angle" to your steering geometry. You might research the info, I you want. I have seen others have to heat and bend the steering arms to allow proper articulation in this configuration. Maybe this is helpful, maybe not?
I do like your car and I hope you're enjoying it. Good luck!
Did a complete Total Performance bucket. Drove like it was on a rail. Sorry you are having trouble.
Nice car man.
12" spokes. Are nice
The shifter has a reverse lock out the adapter for the shifter knob is pushing down on the lock out buy a stock lokar shift knob.
Hi there from the Netherlands, in my opinion there are two major things wrong with your front suspension which could cause deathwobble or other problems. Your Ackerman is wrong, there schould be a lign through steeringarm balljoints, center kingpin which should end up in the middle of your rearaxle and the shrubfactor is not in, or nearly in the centre of your wfrontwheel. Hope this will help you.
A good idea is chrome washers bogger than the Heim joint bearing ID. This retains the Heim joint in case of failure.
The you bolts are not long enough you need threads above the top of the nut and don't use the old nuts ,new lock nuts is a must on the front for safety
The reason that the shackles are angled down to far is not because the spring is too long (a standard 26”) it is because whoever “repaired” the axel the first time cut out a section to get the broken haves squared to each other. Then you also took out more material to square up the ends again. So now the distance between the brackets is narrower causing the spring to now be to long. The axel is also narrower than stock. What needs to be done other than buying a new axel is to cut it back apart. Find out what the distance between the axel plates is correct. Take that measurement and subtract what the distance between axel plates is now. That will give you the size of 2” by 1/4” wall tube spacer to put between the axel half’s. Use a internal sleeve as you did before but also add a external sleeve to cover the repair and extend it at least 2x the axel diameter from each joint ie: 2” axel is 4” past each weld joint plus the spacer length. So if the spacer is 1” you would need a 9” external sleeve (4”+1”+4”). 1/2 the axel wall thickness is fine so that would be 2.250” X .125” wall external sleeve. For looks you can cut a design on the ends of the sleeve like flames or a chevron pattern. If the sleeve is to long and covering the to be welded center section cut it to the maximum length to leave the to be welded section clear to be welded. Also leave enough room for grinding the weld down for the sleeve to slide over. You can also use stainless steel for the outer sleeve polished to match the chrome axel. Do a heavy pinstripe over the welds to finish it off. All that said you also need a welder that is capable of welding 1/4” otherwise it may look like a good weld but it isn’t at all. And if going the stainless outer sleeve if you’re not used to welding stainless to carbon steel then get a professional welder to do it. I would use a professional to do the welding as it is the front end and is carrying 1/2 the weight of the car. Anyhoo just my thoughts and ideas on fixing it. The way it is with the spring shackles at almost 90* is going to be dangerous as will be slamming metal to metal and have no suspension at all. All that weight is riding on those shackle bolts and ongoing direct impact will not end well. Remember you twisted one of those shackle bolts off wit a 3/8” ratchet. Good luck have fun and stay safe.
There are rubber biscuits for between the leaves to not squeeze and scratch the chrome on that front spring
I hope those brake calipers pull the car up OK, they look very light on to me,I would be going to a Willwood caliper to improve braking.
Your stud may have broken from "galling," which is due to excessive friction. Use a thread lubricant. Also, your spring is a little too long. Your shackles should hang at about 45 degrees.
Wow
Based on a tube axle(repaired no less) with hair pins, the stiffer the spring, and therefore the less movement allowed, the better - for front end longevity.
Pending what state y are in there are brackets to mount a front license plate to cover the axle issue , tilt the plate back towards the radiator to not restrict air flow
I'd use the clamp and then use it to hold a horn
It's been a little while. I hope that death wobble didn't get ya.
The like was for the lathe alone
Don’t heat the vinyl with the clear protector on it. Peel the protection, heat & stretch then apply
Could you show how you did the front end alignment?
Thanks for sharing! While I have built a number of Pony cars and road race cars I am staring my first T based build. The experts tell me a front axle with the tie rod behind the axle will drive better. Is there a reason for a tie rod up front?? Thanks
The reason the tie rod is out front is because the previous owner was too lazy to do it right. You have to use DROPPED steering arms so the tie rod doesn't hit the frame. If you also hit a bump. there goes your geometry. with a bent tie rod
There should be a straight line through the centers of the king pin the steering arm tie rod hole and the rear axel housing. It’s called the Ackerman (spelling?) angle. Set up with it your car will steer in a circle without it the car will steer in a ever increasing spiral. You’d start out in a let’s say 20 foot radius after a few revolutions it be a 30 foot radius and so on. Having the tie rod in front makes for a foul driving car. But lots of guys like the way it looks and that’s more important than functionality to them. Hot rodding is not about exact science it’s about doing your thing your way and not always the “correct way” just best to err on the safe side when possible.
Hey, enjoy all your videos. But for some reason the carriage lock video from years ago won't play, says unavailable. Any reason why? Definitely want to watch it again before I try the upgrade myself. Thanks man!
Oh strange. I'm not sure but I'll take a look
@@TimNummy thank you!
I would never trust those cut u- bolts, not enough threads for the lock nut to work
I keep an eye on them. The back side has more thread than the front.
What type of wheels are you using?
What size tires are on the front wheels
Should have moved your gage to the other side in case there is a slight misalignment/ twist to the axle
Please tell me what name tire and size u have on the front
new front axel 300, that sander at least 175 plus welding and dissambly. big mistake.
IMHO all nylocks on suspension should be replaced with new nylock nuts. Nylocks are supposed to be one use nuts meaning once installed then removed they should be replaced. Cheap insurance
Don't think it was cross threaded. I think it was speedway Chinese junk. I've got some good stuff from them and I've got some really inferior JUNK from them.
i ain;t riding in that car.
Amen
The Acumen is way off.
Dude. your shackles are at the wrong angle They should be at a 45 degree + or -. your spring is a little too long. also your Ackerman is still wrong.you bought the wrong steering arms.Speedway will show you this in their catalog
no locktite? you stay away from my t. i want to live.locktite boy locktite is cheap
Squeak
You tube
Where are you?
Lost interest in this?