Great video. Have used koch for a few years, i like h9 and f6. Their very efficient. There is only one issue with pressure, if you use alot or too much pressure your actually pushing the scratches/swirls down further. He is absolutely right though about using a stiffer pad on softer paints. Pads that are too soft dont work well on softer paints as they can cause pad drag and roll over themselves under the machine. Fast arm speed more passes or low arm speed less passes,much of a muchness there, id do slow passes for hard and faster for soft as many soft paints are also sticky so slow arm speed induces the stickiness real quick. Their great products they dont disappoint. Not my number 1 brand but their so much better than many european made compounds/polishes that still smell like petroleum. also dont get caught in the rut of using a compound every time you want to remove defects, many times you really dont need it and wool pads work better with runnier and better lubricating formulas as it reduces abrasive/paint residue clumping on the fibres by moving it around and staying moist unlike the much drier/thicker compounds. Plus the finish is better and less or no marring. Keep the heat under 55-50 celcius (40-45 is my max) and your all good. The softer the paint the faster it heats up. Also most of all, speed/efficiency matters but speed is pointless if the finish you achieve is poor or average. People are paying for finish and the more they pay the the better it must be so its a balance of efficiency and finish quality. Sometimes you get both quickly but there are so many paint types in the world. I dont think i would ever use that much pressure. I love the koch red pad, not as course as rupes old blue but not too light either. Im still learning after all these years, thanks for the content nick
I agree I prefer wool over microfibre. Interesting about the firmer pad! I tied it on soft paint as everything else was leaving haze. And it worked. So I just went with it.
Been using the entire koch range now for years, imo best all round brand on the market, tho honestly I prefer the new Rupes range of compounds. Liking the new videos, keep them coming 👍
@@HawkProDetailing I’m finishing out with either DA fine/yellow or pure on white, and the Rupes range in the U.K. is a heck of a lot cheaper than the Koch compounds. P6 for one steps is definitely unbeatable tho. On a side note have you guys got active foam yet?
After trying Meguiars Compound, Sonax Perfect Finish and a few different type of pads, Koch Chemie H9 and M3 finally - with KCX pads - finally got me to about 85% correction on hard Mercedes paint. Count me as a KCX fan girl. I’m still chewing on those recommended tips for polishing though….but at least I’m clearer on Koch’s numbering conventions. Thank you Nick!
You'll get more confident with pressure and speed and even heat with more experience (Jason rose says get a paint gauge and I think it's a must have). So figuring out how to get cut....getting the experience to *know* when compounding just won't touch a scratch...etc...it comes with time. But polishing can make or break the job even if you remove most defects....Some paints....the really fast hydroplane method with purple pad and m3 works great. Other times I really have to slow it down (it's how the Germans taught it on a rag company livestream) and that nearly always gets me the polishing results I'm looking for. Thanks for always watching the vids 😊
It's not how most people *teach it* but it's my method of choice when compounding. You would be surprised....the paint doesn't get all that hot. I finish a little different than andy though...on some paints the quick arm movements don't work. On some paint I'm astounded at this technique though it works amazing
I have heard nothing but good things about the Koch Chemie line products. However, I like to purchase products made in the USA. Especially in today's environment!
It depends on how aggressive you are with it as well as the heat you’re generating with the speed and pressure. If you apply less pressure and move consistently at a moderate pace, as well as take a minute between runs, the pad will have time to cool down. Gently cleaning off the pads will maintain the integrity of it. Letting them dry completely after washing is best.
M3 is great, as is P3. Haven’t tried H9. P6 dusted for me. I like how you don’t go with the flow. You state what works for you! When the pad doesn’t rotate, doesn’t that create heat?
It does create heat, but thats why you'll see andy with those fast arm passes to mitigate against over heating. The Germans teach the h9 compounding with rotary or the red pad, but we know most detailers here use dual action Polishers so I see the logic behind koch chemie USA training people to use DAs. They're also coming out with a new red foam pad that should be more aggressive compared to their current red foam but I didn't want to bog down the video with too much info. I used it with the m3 and got pretty solid results....definitely good enough for most customers...but I'll stick with the purple pad. I'm so crazy I go down to the 3 inch polisher so I can have more control lol so don't look at me for profits I'm just a little crazy about wanting the perfect paint...which is my ego and not helping the business
haha thanks brother i love h9 with a rotary, i tended to use something like rupes coarse da when cutting with a DA but H9 works awesome too, i haven't tried the new h9 i hear it cuts a bit more. i love its long working time with a rotary though
Thanks. Can you do a review of these techniques? Speed 6, quick passes, then the firm foam pad with finishing polish? Sounds very different to what im used to, im interested to see if you can get better results in less time as suggested
The compounding works. So too does the polishing method (but for me it's purple pad and m3). Check out the little pop up videos I spliced in there in the top right hand corner of the video....I believe youtube now puts them as links in the description section so they are easy to find. Watch "break all the rules for perfect paint"
Everyone including rupes and flex says to not use so much pressure and he hammers it, creating only excessive heat, machine overloading and pad wear. No words on that... As I said before in previous videos koch polishes are mediocre. H9 is so temperature and humidity dependant, above 30°C it's unworkable, 105 cuts better and dust less. F6 is a medium and acts like a compound, not so lubricated and dusty. Old trusty menzerna, carpro, scholl concept are way superior. Koch makes great chemicals for their price, but I consider them more in a car wash category not detailing...
I appreciate your comments cause I've seen you chime in before. You're an OG is what I'm guessing? So I really do respect your experience and insight. Where h9 shines for me as a very SOLID product that I understand and therefore can depend upon is with a rotary. It doesn't cut forever but it stays lubricated. And I love M3, I don't know how to polish without it lol it changed my life. I feel like a lot of guys "hammer down" with great success....maybe not taught on youtube, but in the real world...and they get the results they need
@@HawkProDetailing I like to try various products, that's all. Hammering down is sometimes counter productive. Some aspects was mentioned above, but what really cutting is the rotation combined with the oscillation. You need speed 6 for let the machine a tiny bit of spinning, at 4/5 it will stall no matter what. It's like pushing down a rotary, you need to let the machine work, not your arms in my opinion. You just need to counter the natural tendency the pad has to collapse with a little bit of pressure. I'd like you to try carpro reflect/essence on a DA or menzerna 3800 or Scholl s30+ with a rotary, depending on paint softness... Give them a chance 😉 also work them with a yellow rupes or some medium pad
@@HawkProDetailing koch chemie MZR is a HEAVY duty interior plastic and textile cleaner PH13,. I personally love koch chemie FW as solvent based prep. Also keep an eye on P6 is a incredible AIO with almost real one stage deep correction results. Fse also we use often on light/medium water spots. Gsf is great soap but a bit expensive. But for us on Europe we have many bulk options on 5-10 litres canisters.
@@HawkProDetailing also ...inspite i use...very often as a solvent based paint prep i am not sure....if i.... should do it!!!!!!!! ( It is a wax tar ink residue remover). Maybe the expert can answer that axxaxax..... Keep up the great job with your videos sir congratulations
Great video. Have used koch for a few years, i like h9 and f6. Their very efficient. There is only one issue with pressure, if you use alot or too much pressure your actually pushing the scratches/swirls down further. He is absolutely right though about using a stiffer pad on softer paints. Pads that are too soft dont work well on softer paints as they can cause pad drag and roll over themselves under the machine. Fast arm speed more passes or low arm speed less passes,much of a muchness there, id do slow passes for hard and faster for soft as many soft paints are also sticky so slow arm speed induces the stickiness real quick. Their great products they dont disappoint. Not my number 1 brand but their so much better than many european made compounds/polishes that still smell like petroleum. also dont get caught in the rut of using a compound every time you want to remove defects, many times you really dont need it and wool pads work better with runnier and better lubricating formulas as it reduces abrasive/paint residue clumping on the fibres by moving it around and staying moist unlike the much drier/thicker compounds. Plus the finish is better and less or no marring. Keep the heat under 55-50 celcius (40-45 is my max) and your all good. The softer the paint the faster it heats up. Also most of all, speed/efficiency matters but speed is pointless if the finish you achieve is poor or average. People are paying for finish and the more they pay the the better it must be so its a balance of efficiency and finish quality. Sometimes you get both quickly but there are so many paint types in the world. I dont think i would ever use that much pressure. I love the koch red pad, not as course as rupes old blue but not too light either. Im still learning after all these years, thanks for the content nick
Thanks Matthew! Koch is also releasing a new red pad to go with their new h9. I love 3 inch red pad on my 3 inch flex rotary...it's a beast
@@HawkProDetailing awesome. Thanks for the update. I have so many brands of pads for testing its insane.
I've been blown away with kcx polishes and pads especially the the pad durability
That's the technique I used when I didn't know what I was doing with a polisher in my hand 🤣
I agree I prefer wool over microfibre. Interesting about the firmer pad! I tied it on soft paint as everything else was leaving haze. And it worked. So I just went with it.
Been using the entire koch range now for years, imo best all round brand on the market, tho honestly I prefer the new Rupes range of compounds. Liking the new videos, keep them coming 👍
Thanks Paul! I go back and forth from h9 (rotary) to rupes DA coarse for dual action compounding...but I can't live without my M3 😁
@@HawkProDetailing I’m finishing out with either DA fine/yellow or pure on white, and the Rupes range in the U.K. is a heck of a lot cheaper than the Koch compounds. P6 for one steps is definitely unbeatable tho. On a side note have you guys got active foam yet?
@@paulhamilton6013 ?
@@HawkProDetailing Koch Chemie active foam, it’s a snowfoam/shampoo, one for you to look forward too 👍
After trying Meguiars Compound, Sonax Perfect Finish and a few different type of pads, Koch Chemie H9 and M3 finally - with KCX pads - finally got me to about 85% correction on hard Mercedes paint. Count me as a KCX fan girl. I’m still chewing on those recommended tips for polishing though….but at least I’m clearer on Koch’s numbering conventions. Thank you Nick!
You'll get more confident with pressure and speed and even heat with more experience (Jason rose says get a paint gauge and I think it's a must have). So figuring out how to get cut....getting the experience to *know* when compounding just won't touch a scratch...etc...it comes with time. But polishing can make or break the job even if you remove most defects....Some paints....the really fast hydroplane method with purple pad and m3 works great. Other times I really have to slow it down (it's how the Germans taught it on a rag company livestream) and that nearly always gets me the polishing results I'm looking for. Thanks for always watching the vids 😊
Would like to see a video on reactions from other pros that do paint correction on this guy method of using high speed and force.
It's not how most people *teach it* but it's my method of choice when compounding. You would be surprised....the paint doesn't get all that hot. I finish a little different than andy though...on some paints the quick arm movements don't work. On some paint I'm astounded at this technique though it works amazing
@@HawkProDetailing would like to see a comparison on a actual car, think that would make a good video 👍🏼
Thank you very much for sharing, I recently heard that PHILISN's products work well. If there is a chance, can you shoot a PHILISN video?
Great video, Nick! Always learning something new from Hawk Pro Detailing!
Thanks man!
I have heard nothing but good things about the Koch Chemie line products. However, I like to purchase products made in the USA. Especially in today's environment!
I admire that. 3d is all made in the USA, have you seen my recent mike Phillips video? He talks about this
@@HawkProDetailing I do use some 3D polishes. Who is Mike Phillips? Mike's Details?
Koch chemie are amazing.. High quality and very fairly priced. 👌
🔥🔥🔥
How long will one pad last ?
It depends on how aggressive you are with it as well as the heat you’re generating with the speed and pressure. If you apply less pressure and move consistently at a moderate pace, as well as take a minute between runs, the pad will have time to cool down. Gently cleaning off the pads will maintain the integrity of it. Letting them dry completely after washing is best.
Would you know if their polishes can be used under the sun?
Using a Tornador to blow out the pads can be too aggressive on foam. Very quick or a brush works well.
I used GS, MZR, GSF , AS, QF, QS and the best sprey wax PW.
Whats your favorite product in the whole line up
@@HawkProDetailing PW and FSE.
Koch chemie doesn't have any wool pads so the one you're using in the video is from what brand?
M3 is great, as is P3. Haven’t tried H9. P6 dusted for me. I like how you don’t go with the flow. You state what works for you! When the pad doesn’t rotate, doesn’t that create heat?
It does create heat, but thats why you'll see andy with those fast arm passes to mitigate against over heating. The Germans teach the h9 compounding with rotary or the red pad, but we know most detailers here use dual action Polishers so I see the logic behind koch chemie USA training people to use DAs. They're also coming out with a new red foam pad that should be more aggressive compared to their current red foam but I didn't want to bog down the video with too much info. I used it with the m3 and got pretty solid results....definitely good enough for most customers...but I'll stick with the purple pad. I'm so crazy I go down to the 3 inch polisher so I can have more control lol so don't look at me for profits I'm just a little crazy about wanting the perfect paint...which is my ego and not helping the business
Great video
Did you say you love or didn’t love H9 on a DA lol thanks for the info! i like diy but I love hawk pro !! 🙌
haha thanks brother i love h9 with a rotary, i tended to use something like rupes coarse da when cutting with a DA but H9 works awesome too, i haven't tried the new h9 i hear it cuts a bit more. i love its long working time with a rotary though
Thanks.
Can you do a review of these techniques? Speed 6, quick passes, then the firm foam pad with finishing polish? Sounds very different to what im used to, im interested to see if you can get better results in less time as suggested
The compounding works. So too does the polishing method (but for me it's purple pad and m3). Check out the little pop up videos I spliced in there in the top right hand corner of the video....I believe youtube now puts them as links in the description section so they are easy to find. Watch "break all the rules for perfect paint"
Why does Andy have that nose scrunch of a master snake oil salesman hahahahahhah
Hey nick so the flex polisher you posted is like the rupes 15 mark 3 correct?
Exactly
Koch chemie made great products
Yessir!
When will H902 be available??
Not sure...
Everyone including rupes and flex says to not use so much pressure and he hammers it, creating only excessive heat, machine overloading and pad wear. No words on that... As I said before in previous videos koch polishes are mediocre. H9 is so temperature and humidity dependant, above 30°C it's unworkable, 105 cuts better and dust less. F6 is a medium and acts like a compound, not so lubricated and dusty. Old trusty menzerna, carpro, scholl concept are way superior. Koch makes great chemicals for their price, but I consider them more in a car wash category not detailing...
Someone's mad they didn't get to be in a hawk pro video
@@andycool9918 oh man, I'm not sleeping tonight for that ahaha
I appreciate your comments cause I've seen you chime in before. You're an OG is what I'm guessing? So I really do respect your experience and insight. Where h9 shines for me as a very SOLID product that I understand and therefore can depend upon is with a rotary. It doesn't cut forever but it stays lubricated. And I love M3, I don't know how to polish without it lol it changed my life. I feel like a lot of guys "hammer down" with great success....maybe not taught on youtube, but in the real world...and they get the results they need
@@andycool9918 that’s ridiculous, everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
@@HawkProDetailing I like to try various products, that's all. Hammering down is sometimes counter productive. Some aspects was mentioned above, but what really cutting is the rotation combined with the oscillation. You need speed 6 for let the machine a tiny bit of spinning, at 4/5 it will stall no matter what. It's like pushing down a rotary, you need to let the machine work, not your arms in my opinion. You just need to counter the natural tendency the pad has to collapse with a little bit of pressure. I'd like you to try carpro reflect/essence on a DA or menzerna 3800 or Scholl s30+ with a rotary, depending on paint softness... Give them a chance 😉 also work them with a yellow rupes or some medium pad
Great products but their naming schemes I'm not sure lol
I think their labeling is sexy lol
We love them.in Europe....that have much more great products ..i hope soon avaliable on USA
What else should we look forward to 😁
@@HawkProDetailing koch chemie MZR is a HEAVY duty interior plastic and textile cleaner PH13,. I personally love koch chemie FW as solvent based prep.
Also keep an eye on P6 is a incredible AIO with almost real one stage deep correction results.
Fse also we use often on light/medium water spots. Gsf is great soap but a bit expensive. But for us on Europe we have many bulk options on 5-10 litres canisters.
@@HawkProDetailing also ...inspite i use...very often as a solvent based paint prep i am not sure....if i.... should do it!!!!!!!! ( It is a wax tar ink residue remover). Maybe the expert can answer that axxaxax.....
Keep up the great job with your videos sir congratulations