Modern MTB Sizing vs Old School: How have things changed? - Hardtail Party
Вставка
- Опубліковано 14 кві 2020
- In this episode we take a look at how mtb bike sizing has changed through the years, along with my recommendation of how to size bikes moving forward. Did you learn something valuable? If so, show your appreciation and support this channel by becoming a Patron today: / hardtailparty
Show your love for hardtails by sporting some Hardtail Party Swag (hats, shirts, hoodies, etc.): shop.spreadshirt.com/hardtail...
My glasses: bit.ly/3aXBeKp
My tire sealant: bit.ly/2ULJirZ
My pedals: amzn.to/2V9DzuK
My dropper: bit.ly/3dXWq4D
My stem: bit.ly/2xUreD2
My wheels: bit.ly/33G0Wjm
What's in my water bottles: bit.ly/2Xbxy3q
Hardtail Party Shirts, Swag, etc: shop.spreadshirt.com/hardtail...
Support the channel and save some money by shopping using these links. Feel free to share these with your friends, but please do not post these discounts anywhere else, or we will all lose these discount codes.
bit.ly/2WbHycF - 20% off at Club Ride using my code "hardtailparty"
bit.ly/2UwrmQq - Ryan Leech Connection: $19 off - coupon code "hardtailparty"
bit.ly/2U8OyFE - Velocirax racks - 5% off using coupon code: "hardtailparty"
bit.ly/3adSvyv - CushCore - 15% off using code: "HTCushparty"
Amazon: amazon.com/shop/hardtailparty
Note: some of my links are affiliate links. That means I get a small commission on purchases made using these links. You don't pay anything extra, but it helps support the channel. If you've learned something from my videos, consider using the affiliate links above. - Спорт
Do you need help deciding which bike to purchase next? I offer a one-on-one bike consultation service through patreon. It's how I put food on the table for my family, and how I'm able to provide custom bike advice for my vieewrs. Become a patron today for access: sign up for the monthly bike consultation tier, and cancel at any time. Most people sign up for a month or two, and we work together to discuss their needs, riding style, etc. to narrow down the list of all the great hardtails out there. When they get the info they need and they no longer have any questions, they cancel. Become a patron today: patreon.com/hardtailparty.
If my videos have saved you time or money, consider supporting this channel via Patreon. For as little as $5/month you can ensure I continue making unbiased content. Support individual content creators over garbage tv or sponsored content disguised as reviews.
I'm just under 5.5 and I'm stuck between small 15 or 17 medium 120 mil travel
Have you come out with a sizing guide yet? I just switched to the new style and I am stuck in between sizes according to the yeti chart. I would purchase the sizing guide if available!
@@matthewa4325 I need to do a course on it. Unfortunately, it really depends on body proportions, terrain, and preference. I need to build it out.
I feel like hardtail party talks about a lot of stuff that big magazines and channels leave untouched, such as sizing procedere and what not. Stuff, that actually is of great importance, but just not as exciting.
Thanks. The purpose of magazines and websites is to sell ads. the purpose of my channel is to educate so people don't buy crap they don't need/want. Unfortunately, there's not much money in education and tackling these less sexy topics.
Very well said. HT PARTY takes an informed consumer's perspective. Most magazines are just extensions of marketing departments.
Even the bike stores won’t even mention it either. I hear a lot of what they don’t like but no reason why. It’s well maybe it’s this tire and the orange frame😂, I look pretty uh...I’m a mechanic/tech and you have to ask why something is the way it is and he touches those whys.
I watched your video on new school riding with elbow forward and chin over stem- OMG, it made all the difference !!!!!!!!!
I like the content you are bringing to the channel, keep it coming bro
Other people have mentioned it, but you are the only channel covering technical stuff like the importance of positioning and how sizing has changed.
Crazy how a few cm can change the feel of the bike. I looked at the geo's for my two bikes and noticed that there was a 30mm difference in stack height which becomes noticeable on the lower stack bike on long rides. I'm learning a lot from your videos. Thanks!!
While I quarantine bike shop this information has been extremely helpful and insightful as I try to upgrade from my almost 20yr old hard tail to something newer and more modern.
Well try 2 go titanium very light
I like the channel, it’s a combination between weekend warrior riding type of riders and riders with children. Meaning riders with lives. It’s great 👍
I am 186 cm and I ride reach 470 on my enduro and DH bikes both and I love it. I also bought dirtjump bike to improve my jump technique and I found the longest one on the market with reach 440 which is really great to feel confident on that short type of bike....Also makes it easy to switch between DJ and endruo/DH bikes I can adjust myself in a minute.
Very good topic and something not covered enough in my opinion. I've returned to mountain biking last year after around 20 years either not riding or on skinny tyres. Although I've always kept an eye on what's going on in MTB I found the new geometry quite hard to figure out made worse by the fact that I seem to fall exactly between small and medium frame size on many manufacturers size charts. In the end I went medium but it took me a while to make up my mind and there never seemed to be much guidance on it.
Oh and yes, it's an hardtail.
The main issue I have with long / modern geo bikes is the increased reach means I have a reduced range of motion because my arms didn’t get any longer . Specifically I can’t push the front wheel as deep into throughs.
Fantastic info! Thanks Steve
So much good information...thanks!!
I loved listening to this! Thanks!!!
Liked and subscribed. I am definitely going to learn from this channel.
a gem of info, thanks!
I am 5'9" and my last frame had a 440mm reach and I used a 50mm stem. it felt HUGE and I could never get used to it after a year. It was actually painful and crash-prone no matter where I put the dropper post, the handlebar positions, and no matter how hard to worked to adapt my stance. I had two professional "fit" sessions with different shops and they made it worse by putting a longer stem on it.
My current frame that replaced it has a much, much shorter reach and I use the same short stem. I fear that with the growing length of bikes these days I literally won't be able to buy another bike that fits my in the future. what's wrong with me?
Brings back memories. I rode Trek and Gary Fisher back in the 80's and 90's. I rode smaller frames back then. "Felt" better since I rode the BMX type bikes. Got accustomed to throwing the bikes around on trails. Hard for me to ride some modern bikes cause it feels like I'm driving a tank. The Yeti SB165 is a good example. Super stable bike going downhill, but I just can't get comfortable on it cause it just feels too big.
I so hear you!!! (68 yrs old)
Schwinn Stingray, 10sp Varsity, Raleigh road & MTBz and now I have a 2012 TREK Gary Fisher and an planning on buying a Commencal Meta TR. Help!!!! I don't know what I am doing - but I ride every day!!!!
Watching this gave me a flashback to getting sized for my ‘98 Trek 8000SL. The salesman did the 1-2” lift thing and that was that! Never mind the laid out 110mm stem ;)
Grea tinfo and Id love to hear more about it. I've ridden mostly old school bikes up untill recently and can forbsure tell a difference with the new geo. I hopped back on my 2015 bike and it felt so small... I cant imagine what my 2009/2004 would feel like now.
Great vid. I always recommend people look at standover height compared to their inseam to make sure they will be able to stand over the frame with ample space and then look at the reach measurement. Reach takes a person demoing a few bikes a few times and comparing different reaches in order find out what they like. But I like your rule of thumb that for more aggressive riding consider going longer reach and for more all day pedaling consider a shorter reach. I also recommend people look at the Effective Top Tube measurement because with steeper Seat Tube Angles and slacker Head Tube Angles and shorter stems, the seated riding positions on some bikes can feel small even though the bike’s wheelbase and reach might be on the longer side. This is something that I think people need to be aware of too. It’s actually one of the reasons I size up, because I don’t like the small cockpit feeling while seated. Finally, the seat post height is simply to determine if they should perhaps get a shorter or longer dropper for the people at the extremes in height- for most in the middle usually the stock sized dropper works well. I agree I hate the general size charts based on height, bc a lot of people (like myself) have either longer torso compared to legs or longer legs compared to torso, and this makes a huge difference in what size will be right for the person. Great vids that I think will help a lot of people. Keep up the good work. Btw- listening to the history lesson got me all nostalgic- man those 90s bikes were crap compared to what we have today but we rode the hell out of em and had fun anyway.
Agreed, well said! We still found a way to smile, despite no droppers, no tubeless, and 26" wheels. Bikes are fun.
Very helpful, thanks!
Great subject! When I'm looking for a new bike I always create a geo chart so I can compare measurements like reach, stack and chainstay length. I compare them all to a bike I was really happy with, my '18 Stumpjumper which was an XL. I look for whatever size comes closest to that and then decide where to compromise if need be. Changes in stem length, bar rise, crank length etc... can make a size up or down work but you need to realize how different they will feel. For example, I just bought a Nukeproof Scout in XL based on the fact that it has a reach thats only 5mm longer that my Stumpjumper was but the bike felt pretty bad to me, almost unrideable because the stack was so much lower. I could barely lift the front end over logs. it felt like a straight up XC bike. I installed a set of 80mm rise, Deity Highside bars and it totally transformed the bike and I love it now! Bottom line is you need to know a few measurements that work best for you and the trails you ride most. Understanding the relationship between pedal, handlebar, axle and seat positions is key in setting up a bike to perform well.
Looking forward to your full course!
100% agree!
Great coherent content.
great info... I'm trying to find something budget and likely second hand that is a modern fit. very helpful video
Looking forward to your course. Thanks for sharing. Proper respect.
I'm looking forward to watching your size guides as I do more research to replace my 12 year old specialized hardrock (26' wheel rim break). Currently looking at a giant fathom 29 as the 66° head tube is a little slacker (I a mix of flowy and steep trails here in Eastern Washington St with super steep a weekend away) I'm a little over 6'2 so I was looking at either a large or XL as I'm right between (I'm fairly new to mtb)
I'm into motorcycles but want to get into bikes . Thanks for the info!
I just read an article about how reach numbers between different bikes can be missleading as well. That you have to look at the stack height as well. A bike with a higher stack and shorter reach can be very similar to a bike with longer reach/shorter stack depending on how many spacers you put under your bars and how much rise your bars have. It also touched on how geometry numbers for a hardtail should not be compared to geometry numbers of a full suspension since the numbers are static and on a full suspension you generally run more sag in the rear than the front making everything slacker when riding and opposite for hardtails.
Sounds like a good article, I completely agree.
I'm 5ft 10 on a xl ragely marley aggressive bike for an aggressive size is what I'm gathering
Same
I think it is a matter of our body adaptation to another lenghts and angles. I remember myself when switch from the early 10's bike to 2018 frame. Just a couple of weeks to adapt, yea. After riding this geo for 2 years I found Lee McCormack's article about RAD :> After this I switch back to late 00's bike (they used to be with shorter RAD) and, again, just a couple weeks to adapt with ease. Maan, now I'm a happy man finally with all those sizings.I think, they should add another dimension to any bike specs - center of bb to upper centre of headset - to understand is it ok and I can adapt it with stem and handlebar or not.
Great topic anyway, thank you! ;)
Dropper post changed the game. Made DH style geo possible for trail bikes.
We've had droppers for 10 years, but we're just barely starting to see good geo
hardtail party R&D is slow. It takes years to develop new bikes. Years ago they made droppers for existing bikes that can only fit ~100mm. The geometry slowly changed and so did the dropper lengths.
@@brassmnky33 😂
Hardtail party rules🤘
Great content
Thx for this video
Can't wait for the meta thinking of going that route. But 29r.
I have been shopping for a plus hardtail for a bit now and I have been looking at the geometry charts hard. I first look at components ie: groupset, fork/travel, wheels, and dropper post. Once I have my list of bikes I am interested in, I make a spread sheet which has components and also geometry specs. I have really paid attention to head and seat tube angles, reach, stack, chainstay length, BB drop, and stand over clearance. I have tried to demo the bikes so I can get a feel for how the fit and handle.
Here's how I recommend shopping for bikes: ua-cam.com/video/8iDEG6ibAg8/v-deo.html
This is so helpful, and I am going to repeat part of my response to one of your fans.
I am 68 yrs old and ride my bike everyday. I began with Old Time balloon tires to Schwinn Stingray to 10sp Varsity to Raleigh road & MTBs and now I have a 2012 TREK Gary Fisher and an planning on buying a Commencal Meta TR. Help!!!! Online bikes are scary but affordable. BUT, I so wish I coukd test ride and what you said about getting comfortavle with the new geometry is so right on. I am going to ride a friend's house tomorrow (masks & disinfectants) and ride his Transition Sentinal. He thinks the Meta TR would be great, but his bike is the closest I can come to test riding one.
So, I really appreciate your videos!!! Thank you. 🤪
I'm 72 and riding a 2013 Trek Superfly (same as a Gary Fisher HiFi Deluxe before Trek bought GF). I'm waiting for delivery of a Fuel EX 9.75 (calling it a 9.75 because I'm upgrading to carbon wheels and seat dropper off of 9.8 plus a full GX rear end with XD hub) It has the new geo and looks similar in geo to the Commencal. Because I appreciate my relationship with my LBS, I'm staying with Trek, or I'd buy a V4 Ripley.
@@dgreensotr
You are 72 years old and you should get the bike you want. My LBS has some bikes they would like to sell me, but told me that they would service whatever bike I got.
The question is:
Have you contacted Ibis and ask if they would set up a deal through your LBS? I have heard of this happening. I mean, which would they rather have happen? That you would buy a competitor's (Trek) bike or that you would buy one of theirs? And the extra bonus for Ibis is that your LBS sees the quality of Ibis and becomes the intermediary for another bike(s) in the future.
Again - You are 72 years old and you should get the bike you want! :)
@@drmoynihan I thought about seeing if my LBS could get the bike but we have a local BS that already sells the brand. My LBS is giving a great deal on the Fuel EX, which I doubt he could give me on the Ripley. Now only if the trails would re-open.
I remember my rigid fork mountain bikes. I also had a Hutch Pro Racer before that. Then RockShox came out in the early 90s.
Nice vids !and the video about geometry is very important! I subs you! So remember me !when you go big :) Cus i see a lot of future in your presenter style !
There's an online brand and they'll post out a blow-up, life-size replica of the bike so the consumer can swing a leg over it. Great for me, as my LBS don't even have a parking lot. Great discussion points, never heard anyone who's just dropped many thousands of pounds or dollars on a bike and said they bought the wrong size haha. Usually, they'll have the odd moment, even an offie and blame the suspension (too many or lack of volume spacers), wheels being too stiff or too flexi, tyres with showroom-shine but not a good compound rubber, and anyone who can't slam their seatpost on the hoof, well, even XC racers are running dropper posts so in my humble opinion, they need educating on THE biggest revelation to MTB even more so than suspension, either end.
Steve, thanks so much for making these videos. This one and others helped me decide on ordering a Pole Taival. Keep up the great work and is there any other way to supporting the channel than patreon? Paypal donation maybe?
Oh man I miss being a kid with my heavy haro and not knowing any better
Great video and thanks for the content and explanation, as a BMX rider that rides mtb sizing is tricky and confusing, even in bmx where the measure of TT doesnt really speak the true picture and often like in mtb different companies use different measurements. I would love it if BMX frames were shown with a Rider Area for sizing, whats your thoughts on this measurement for MTB? Also very interested in your geo lesson as ive been scouring reviews and geo's of bikes to try and find the right hardtail for me (as where i live no real good LBS that stock good brands that do demo's),
I ride some slower, tighter trails and a lot of these longer wheelbase bikes seem like they'd be a bit cumbersome in those situations. Where you ride really needs to be taken into consideration as well. On a side note, the new Following (for example) looks great since the reach is modern, yet the wheelbase is not overly long.
I've been riding for years but soon when I get my new bike it will have my first dropper post, some tips on how to use a dropper post would be very helpful for many riders I'm sure. Thanks!
Have some questions and a suggestion for something that would be helpful for many I think. It relates to slightly altering geo based on tire sizing between rear and back tires, have you explored this? Suspect you have. The suggestion part is that because you likely have a massive stockpile of tires, for example 29er.s in a particular width, I find there is a lack of info or data bases on tire height, .5 to 1 cm difference would be a huge advantage to know about rather than trying a more extreme mullet operation. Thanks for all of your enthusiasm and sharing of knowledge!
Excellent.
Good info
Great channel! I am getting into mtbing at the moment. Just got a trek roscoe8. It’s a pretty nice bike for my skill level I suppose. You have any thoughts about its sizing(I got a large based on my height at 6feet)? Also any thoughts on it in general (geometry, spec,frame)? I know it lacks a rear thu axle, which is kind of a bummer.
With so many variables it seems the smart decision is to ride before you buy. Specs do not work in isolation, one spec influences so many others.
Then tweak fit slowly over time, after purchase. It usually take me about a year to tweak a good fit.
100% agree. A lot of people look at one or two numbers on a geo chart and make a decision based off that, without understanding how everything else works together. Nothing beats a test ride or two on dirt.
I feel like reach and STA need to be taken together to find a good fit. Steeper seat tube angles need a bigger reach number to avoid feeling compact.
I think you're confusing reach with ett. But I get what you're saying. For example, the salsa has a great distance to the bars when seated, but when I stand the reach feels too short. Ifntge seat tube angle were steeper and the effective top tube lengthened, it would have a longer reach (desirable) and the same seated distance to the bars (desirable). My banshee and middle child have this.
You got that right, modern has been an evolution of taking steps in the right direction, all accumulating to now. Old school is either for retro/nostalgia style or a sign of complacency (laziness in not trying to seek improvement).
Retro has it's values for those who do not like modern riding position. A lot of folks look at hanging their face over the handlebars and just go, nope.
Put my AL Comp down a grass trail to test things a bit, and even though I had more control, I couldn't get past the feeling that I was going to bury my jaw into the mud the whole time. I can do it, I just don't enjoy it in the slightest.
Man I keep learning with each video I watch! I I’ve in a major city but most of the LBS owners and workers are still stuck on the old school way of fitting bikes and size recommendations. I’d understand with entry level hardtails, but not for $3k+ modern bikes. One shop even had a hard time explaining the effect of reach and sizing with their Specialized lineup!
If you keep learning, and this channel is saving you money, consider supporting as a patron (if you're able)
I use a combo of 2 measurements.
1) reach, for standing
2) effective top tube, for when I am seated.
The reasoning is this. I have a min and max reach for me 465-500 with an ideal in the 480-490 range. This is to make sure I am in the position I like for riding. Like you I favor the bigger end for aggressive riding and the smaller end for more relaxed riding. The reason I care about top tube is so I am comfortable seated on a long climb or flat smooth section. With this I also have a max and min 630-670. With this all I care is that it is in that range because between sliding the seat and small stem length changes I can make any bike in that range comfy.
So when sizing I find the size with reach closest to my ideal that still has a top tube somewhere in the right range. If Incant fond both, then that model doesn’t have a size that fits me.
I'm the same way.
How tall are you? I guess close to 190 cm, right?
Flexibility you got it kid....lose it as you age.... I lost a inch of height at seventy haha... still ride the beans outta my insta gator... appreciate it
Some offer leg sizes too, but I have yet to find an answer if you measure all the way up to the ridge, or until you reach your packed stuff. Some videos show more of the latter, but I feel that could be just to be "decent" and not having to move it away to measure all the way. As a big guy I'd be way too scared to shop a bike because of the risk of it being not the right size for me, or it being generally too big and goofy looking, or too small and relative to me goofy looking.
Did I hear "Pole Taival" in this Video?
A review of that bike would be great. (But probably not possible atm.)
You are correct on both accounts. I don't think pole will be able to send one anytime soon. But I'm dying to try one.
@@hardtailparty I think you'd like the Taival. I have one built up with a 150mm Lyrik. So capable. I believe it would compare well with the Banshee Paradox V3 in terms of how it rides. But the size S in the Taival is like a size L in the Paradox. Your comments about sizing between different bikes is spot on too. The Taival in a size S fits me quite similar to my Trek Fuel EX in a size L. The difference in the geometry though, the Taival being more modern, makes them ride a bit different. It surprises me how the Taival actually inspires more confidence when it gets steep. Also worth noting the max tire size you'd fit in the rear when running as 29er is only around 2.5" (Maxxis sizing which runs more like a 2.4" on some other brands). If you search on UA-cam you'll see my friends review of my Taival, he also reviewed the Paradox so some comparisons are made.
Anyway I enjoy your channel and appreciate the content you post. Cheers!
I was looking at the GEO on Salsa timber jack. From what I’ve read the reach and stack are the only differences from a small to large. Correct me if I’m wrong . From seat tube back are all the same.
Seat tube length gets longer with eacch size. But chainstay length stays the same through all sizes. Sadly, most companies do this, especially with hardtails.
I don't like modern sizing at all. I am forced to either purchase a M and install the shortest stem I can find and STILL be too stretched out or purchase a S and feel cramped. I miss the old days. Call me a grumpy old man. BUT!!!! It's a great excuse to purchase a custom frame for my next bike. :-). Great video Steve. Thank you.
I understand your frustration. I've found that if you shop around across other brands, you can usually find a bike with the exact reach you want
Modern geometry (and it's frame sizing) is set up to have the rider leaning more over the handlebars on rough terrain. there are a few reasons folks started doing it, none of which I'm entirely qualified to understand let alone explain. That's where all of the reach is coming from.
Even my cheap and cheerful Schwinn AL Comp has fairly modern Geo. And it took... quite a few moments to feel comfortable with my head out over the bars running over the rougher patches I've tested it on. It's way more controllable then my older bikes where, though, so there's that.
Q: I'm 6'3" and looking to purchase a new MTB but i'm not sure about LG or XL for sizing. Would you recommend sizing up to XL or maxing out at LG?
I‘m a simple man.
I see hardtails and I hit 'like'.
Sounds like a massive minefield, especially when buying used. I’m not really used to the modern geometry bikes, so this has got me wondering just what size I should be looking for as I’m still stuck in the old style sizing and I’m dismissing anything under a large at the moment as I’m quite tall. Sounds like I’m doing all this wrong.
I cant seem to find any basic bike size guides for a xc setup, just ordered a 29er size Large frame (following the company guidelines for height) but it turned out HUGE, have about 1 inch space between topbar and crotch while standing on ground. Any recommendations for what I should consider?
What is your opinion of Cotic? Specifically, the SolarisMax? Opinions or thoughts? I dont usually comment but I have watched your channel for awhile now, thanks for all the information. Party on!
I haven't ridden the solarismax, but id like to. I used to own a soul and thought it was a cool bike.
I just found ur channel and im here to party!! i want to know if u have a video or any advice on how to raise the stack height on a hardtail, i see a lot of video on the angle but non on just the stack? thanks
To raise the effective stack you need a longer atc, more spacers or higher rise bars.
@@hardtailparty ok sorry im fairly new at this atc is for the handle bars? i want to raise the frame at the front, by the bottom of the top tube with just buying longer shocks, thanks
What’s your height if I may ask? I have a commencal meta HT 2020 and i’m planning to change my frame to a Ragley Mmmbop 2020 but i’m torn between choosing medium or large. I am 5’9 and would really love to hear your recommendation.
Great background info. But do you think you should ever have more weight on the bars? I ride to keep as much of my weight through the BB as possible.
Yes, I often have situations where I ride with far more weight on the bars than my bb. See my video on modern technique vs old-school technique.
Hi, me again with the Spec. Fuse :)
Quick question: If I change the chainstay length on my bike, will it affect shifting ? Thanks!
No
My gravel bike was technically measured the same way as BMX bikes are.
I need that hoodie
See my video "why I wear a hoody"
Looking forward for the Commencal Meta HT Review. I have an extra 120mm 29" fork. How do you think it would affect the geo on the Meta?
* running 27.5+
Stay tuned for my course on geo. It would steepen the ha, steepen the seat angle, and lower the bb
it was Joe
breeze who created the first mountain bike if i am correct
Hello, I am 185 cm and leg inseam 85 cm. What size can you recommend for cube stero 120?
My height is 5'6" what size of frame should i get? I ride trails.
Decided to go forward on a unicycle.
They've got the easiest geo on the planet!
Did you get a remote dropper post with that??
Any chance of doing a trek stache review.
I'd like to do one. I feel like it needs to be updated, the geo is super old school. It's great for long days in the saddle, bikepacking, and exploring, but it wouldn't be my first bike for trail riding due to the geo. It's hard to ride aggressively and feel in control compared to more modern bikes.
1:57 I tried with my bike. Both wheels could only raise 4 cm (1.57 inches). Is this bike standover height to me too high?
Mint 🍃
Who watches this even though they have a full squish
Me. Full squish riders are invited to the party too. There's still a lot to learn that applies to full squish as well.
I had my last bike about two decades ago. :/
There's a pill for that.
This guy knows bike..
Just asking is it okay to have little to no standover clearance? The stack and reach are perfect for me for the frame i bought but it has a high top tube leaving me to have little clearance left
Yes, that's fine. With 29er wheels, we lose stand over.
I’ve been quietly riding my 1997 Stumpjumper... this whole new world is scary. Lol
A lot has changed... But you're going to be thrilled when you try a new frame out.
2004 Gary Fisher Big Sur ... getting back into it and i’m lost. This channel is helping a lot!!
Hi bro my height is 167cm I’m planning to buy specialized epic evo,do you think medium size can fit me?
Could you help advise me on a size please ? Trek is not doing test rides or anything for a while so i will have to buy blind. I’m looking at a roscoe 7. I’m 6’1 with a 32” inseam and 76” wingspan. Any help would be lovely for this soon to be hardtailer.
My advice is to not buy blind. I'd also avoid the Roscoe. It has a weird job sizing and a quick release axle, which can slip out of the frame under hard pedalling. Size is super important so I'd wait until you can't ry the bike you want.
Thank you I appreciate the info!
I got so fatigued on my small 26” mtb and now i got an XL rockhopper 29” and its like nothing. I could of gone with the L size because im just over 6’ 1”
Nice stuff 5 stars. How do I find my optimal reach please?
depends on your trails, riding style, size, etc. I offer bike consulting/advice for my patrons.
I might just take you up on that.
Hey Steve, as modern bike get slacker and bottom bracket gets lower, you have more chances of hitting small obstacles with your pedals. So larger wheels may help- but still. What do you think about shorter crank arms? It may be worth a tech video on this....
I've been trying to find some 165 or even 160mm crank arms to test this exact theory. Good technique can prevent 95% of pedal strikes, but shorter cranks definitely wouldn't hurt.
hardtail party I was even thinking about the effect of going from the standard 175 to 172.5, 170 and only then to even less. Also, How would it effect different riding styles- XC, trail, all-mountain and bike-packing.
We now have bikes that feel uncomfortable 😣 At least to me! I HATE feeling stretched! Where is the comfort in that! Long top tubes? Unfortunately even the xc bikes feel overlong to me! Even sizing down by one size doesn't help! Short stem? Still feels wrong...
It's a different story on my road bike single speed/fixed gear, that geometry actually kinda fits my body more. Even the drop bars, even though I don't consider drops comfortable at all 😅
625mm top tube... Still feeling stretched... I'm 186cm tall, with longer legs and arms,and shorter torso,and I ride 45-48 (currently 47mm) frames! They feel long! Slacked angles? The bikes feel lethargic 😌
The ONLY bike builder who's geometry makes sense to me is,Jeff Jones! I wish I could afford one of even the cheapest of his bikes!
Greetings from Croatia 😎
Hey Steve, do you have any thoughts on Lee McCormick's RAD bike fit measurement? He suggests modern bikes bave gotten way too long and that most people are riding bikes that are too big despite the manufacturer size chart.
I really respect Lee, he's a great coach, but I completely disagree with RAD sizing.
@@hardtailparty that's helpful to hear. Based on his sizing, modern size L and XL for many brands should basically be obsolete and it had me scratching my head.
Bro I need your help changing from a ragley mmmbop 2020 to a commencal 29. Medium Ragley. But commencal says size small based on my reach preference.. say wuhhh
Due to the large volume of requests I get each day for this info, I do all my consulting via patreon: patreon.com/hardtailparty
For me Stand Over height is irrelevant!
The most important measurements i look for is
1. Reach
2. Head angle
3. Seat tube angle
4. chainstay length
5. Max seatpost insertion.
I'm 5'8! on paper every bike company recommends a Medium but i ride Large. The reason?
Most Mediums don't have a 460-470 reach which is where i feel most comfortable and not cramped. Yes i could ride a Medium but not on a 40mm stem. My ideal reach is 470mm with a 40mm stem that is my sweet spot. Im comfortable, no back pain, don't feel cramped, the front wheel doesnt lift on me when climbing, still playful, and its stable at high speeds.
Also being able to slam the dropper down to the collar is also a must for me.
The best advice i can give anyone is that when you find a bike that is perfect for you study that Geometry!!
I'm pretty confused with all the bike standarts, as well with geometry. What would be a advice for mtb beginner. I didn't develop/prefer any technic on my old bike. So I think going for the modern geometry bike and developing skills on that would be best, also for the future, when every bike would be "modern"
My old bike was 2001 Balfa 2 step Fr which I bought used for 200$, now I don't have any, so looking for new trail hardtail
Loving your channel and keep up with great content
I recommend a clinic as soon as you can.
@@hardtailparty?
@@adamlukas3967 a coaching session with an mtb coach. They can help you develop good technique right off the bat.
If you're looking for advice on which bike to buy, that's a feature I save for my patrons.
@@hardtailparty Thanks, I don't want a specific bike choice advice, rather if I should care about geometry or buy a new with modern one (slacker, longer reach, steeper seat tube) as I don't prefer specific geometry
@@adamlukas3967 depends on where you ride and what you want out of your bike.
Great video. Curious, would a 2015 Santa Cruz bike be considered a having modern geo.?
Depends on the model.
@@hardtailparty nomad 3
It's fairly modern. Reach is a tad short but other then that it's modern
@@hardtailparty thanks. Much appreciated
Funny to hear about Specialized leading the way, since they were so late to the game of stretching bikes out. Too bad, since my old Stumpjumper is going to be my fun bike for a while yet, whereas I'm in the market for a more endurance-oriented hardtail, as the Stumpy is a bit of a dog for long rides, and I'll probably end-up with yet another old-school geometry bike.
On this similar topic.. Can you explain what the difference is between a progressive frame and linear frame design??
This video, is fantastic... I've a better understanding of what "reach" means now... This makes do much more sense... Ha 🚴🏾♂️🤙🏾💪🏾🤘🏾
Progressive vs linear applies to the suspension curve of a full suspension. We don't have to worry about that with a hardtail. I could do an entirely different course on fill suspension characteristics and what they mean, but that's going to have to wait a while.
@@hardtailparty gotcha... Well always learning!!🤘🏾
Would an alternative approach to knowing all this stuff just be to test out a lot of different bikes and take the one you feel best on? Or would a test ride not be enough to make good judgement?
I always suggest riding as many bikes as possible and picking your favorite, but a lot of people just buy online sight unseen these days
hardtail party oh wow, couldn’t imagine doing that. Thnx for responding btw, really appreciate it!
How can I make my XC hard tail more trail friendly? 2019 Specialized Chisel expert 1x, 100mm fork.
Longer-travel fork, dropper, wider bars, bigger tires, maybe angle-set headset.
At a quick glance chunkier tyres and larger brake rotors
Don't seek to make your bike more trail friendly, make your skills more trail friendly ;)
🤯🔥🤙👏👏👏
wow