I purchased a Teac A-4010S when I was in Thailand in the early 1970s. I sold it to buy a refrigerator in 1977 when my wife and I were first married. I always regretted it. I found one at an estate sale about 6 years ago. I’m in the process of restoring it and your videos has been invaluable. Thanks you!
Jordan's video was incredible. I still have mine from Vietnam and stored for 40 years. I followed his instructions and revived it as well as all the old tapes I recorded. It was like going back 50 years!
As I started researching the repair of my newly acquired A-4010S, I viewed pretty much every UA-cam video available. I found it interesting how many of them referred to your video as the benchmark, one even went so far as to show your video as they recorded their version. I have watched yours several times, so Thank you from 2022!
Found one about 15years ago. Knew nothing about r2r but cleaned the obvious turned it on and it worked apparently perfect. Pulled out of storage about six months ago, still working. I am anticipating future issues and found this video. GREAT video. Not sure whether to mess with a working unit, but preventive maintenance is probably warranted. Thanks for the video. One of the better ones out there.
Thank you for this servicing video. I bought my 4010S in Frankfurt, Germany when I was in the Army. It was my main source of entertainment as I recorded albums of fellow soldiers and built a large collection that I still have. Now, 50 years later, I want to play those nostalgic tapes of real rock and roll, Doobie Bros, Stones, Grand Funk Railroad and stuff you just can't find in the US. Your instructions answered several questions on setting the 50 or 60 Hz belts on the right pullies, how my pinch roller became so frozen I couldn't get it to work. Other items you covered, I hadn't event thought of and will now redo and do it right. Now, I just need to find your video on how to adjust heads to get the very best quality sound and recording results.
Bought an old 4010S off of Ebay to play with. Both the capstan arm and tape tension arm froze up just as in the video. Removed them with heat as in the video, cleaned and lubed and the mech works great. Pleasantly surprised to find that the audio electronics were working fine after the mech repair and capstan belt replacement. This video was an excellent tool, thanks Jordan if you are still out there!
I purchased a Teac A-4010S in Okinawa in 1969 for $225. I've serviced it myself over the years (Belt, cleaning, lube) and it still works like new! Great video!
Jordan, I purchased a Teac 4010S when I was in Vietnam in 1970. The unit hasn't been working for many years. Will order some belts and your video will make it soooo helpful to service it. Glad you made this video available. Anxious to listen to my old collection of 60's music tapes when I was over there. Subscribed and thanks a million.
This is yet another thank you for making this video. I was able to get my cheap ebay 4010s up and running with your help. I finally have a decent reel to reel player without having to sell a kidney. Your heat gun trick was especially helpful. If you have a beer fund I will gladly contribute!
Thank you for making this process as easy as possible! I purchased a TEAC A-4010s for $20. I ordered a belt and followed your instructions. Everything worked out great that’s to you! Cheers!
What a beautiful tutorial! I now have the courage to do a complete maintenance on a very clean but unused machine I acquired recently. Many, many thanks for a wonderful piece of work!
You are the best. So nice to not have to suffer through annoying music, bad grammar and cheap shortcut solutions like so many other so-called repair videos. If a guy can't formulate a complete sentence, can he really be trusted with his techniques?
Just watched your video Jordan. Such a in-depth video. I am restoring a Teac A-4010 GSL, very similar, but with a few different mechanical twists. Thank you so much for this, you are such a careful and thorough technician.
Thanks. I just today carried my 4010 down from the attic. It's been there 25 years. I bought the TEAC (used) in college in 1974 and used it through 1990, and then put it in the attic - I am going to attempt the refurbishing. The repair work looks intimidating - but wish me luck.
I just picked one up with all the original manuals, box and accessories for $45 at estate sale. I'm going to follow your video and hopefully getting it back on track.
Thank you so much for this video Jordan. I just picked up a non working Teac 4010S. Using your video, I replaced the capstan and counter belts and cleaned and lubed all the mechanicals. I followed your video to the letter, except I didn't have to use heat on the transport.....and when I put power to it, the unit cranked right up! I would have never figured it all out without your help. Thanks again.
This is an awesome video Jordan, thanks so much! I recently picked up this same machine from the original owner's friend who purchased it in Vietnam. Came in the original box with manual and is in wonderful shape cosmetically. I removed the front face plate to find the belt broken. Ordering a belt now and will do the full service watching your excellent video. Thanks again, would have no clue what to do without this!
I PURCHASED this deck from my Local Craigslist and a teac 505 ( tube amp deck ) . when i got theses units home i was about to give up on both of them until i came across your Video , your video is most priceless to anyone that is lucky enough to come across the A-4010 s . my deck was stored for 37 years according to the widow that sold it to me . The deck had all the symptoms that u describe in your video , Anyway i followed all yur steps including the heatgun method , lubed all mechanical points reassembled the unit and the RESULTS WERE NOTHING SHORT OF AMAZING and i cant thank you enough for posting this priceless video , would love to seee a maintainece video for the TEac 505 OR 505 R kEEEP POSTING AND AGAIN THANK YOU
Thank you Jordan! My A-1500u is working once again! Seeing how the pinch roller came off was the deciding thing that lead me to give it a try. My pivot bracket was seized up just like in your video. I did not have a heat gun, but I was successful with some penetration lube. Thanks once again for the excellent instruction, I revived my venerable unit, that has sat dormant for probably 8 years or so. Merry Christmas!!
Love your videos, John P! TEACs are fine machines! Myself, I'm a Norwegian, and favour Tandbergs.. have several old ones and a nice TD20A from 1982, which I bought new
Thanks for your video. Definitely helped me learn about the a-4010sl I got at an estate sale. I guess it was kinda pricey, I paid 96 for it. Like yours, the pinch roller was completely seized, and the belt was obliterated into nothing. Record function wasn't engaging and pots were dirty. It's Never been opened before, nor have I ever had a tape deck, so it was fairly easy to repair, add a belt, clean everything, etc. Played some tapes it came with, it's like opening an audio time capsule. Thanks!
Great video, so clear in it's instruction. Just picked up a 4010S, earlier than this one I think and was baffled at the concept of installing a new belt through that tiny hole in the back. This is so much better and even though my capstan arm is nice and free can clean that up, too. Let's keep these awesome old machines going! A+
I just took possession of my brother's TEAC 2300S which he put in storage after using it for about a year in '77. The pinch-roller is almost frozen, and I've been able to lightly nudge it into place. Time to do real repairs.
Thank you Jordan, for the most informative video, I took mine apart after seeing it. It was the same typical case, belt turned to mush, seized up pinch roller arm. I took apart all of the components, cleaned and oiled them. The screws for the capstan assembly is kind of a chore with all those wires, without the magnetic screwdriver, but made due with tape.Replaced the belt and now it functions very well. I enjoy your other videos a lot too.
An awesome video. I just acquired a 4010s that was purchased in Vietnam in 1969. One thing I wish you could have done up front is to mount the camera and work with both hands.
Many thanks for your video. I recently received a Teac A4010S, I would not have attempted the maintenance and belt replacement without your video. It works perfectly now, thanks!
Nice video sir! I have an A-7010 my brother gave me years ago, and it worked great in 1987 but had a lot of wow and flutter when I tried it about 15 years ago. It's on my "keeper" list for sentimental reasons and will be moving on priority on my to-do list.
500 subs when you posted this and now it's 20k! That's impressive. Anyway, I just bought one of these and will be doing this exact service when my belt comes in. Thank you Jordan!
Really a great common sense approach to repair. I watched it a few times to get my repair right... Replaced the belt and it works fine. The only problem I had was the tape head cover standoff broke off, so now I have to replace it if I can get it out.
So very glad to see your channel back up! I love your informative videos and appreciate your time making them! I have a few Teac's 7010sl, 4010sl, A-2050 Akai 1800sd, and a quad I'm just a beginner but with your helpful knowledge I'm sure I can do it 😉 Thanks again
Thanks. Very helpful for my 4010sl that has been boxed up for over 30 years. Bought it new in Japan in 1971 and just got it out this week. It had every problem you described. Waiting for a belt but otherwise it looks like everything is OK.
Thanks Jordan! Great video! Been pondering the idea of attempting to restore my A-3340 which has been stored for about thirty years. After taking the rear panel off, it looked a bit indimidating. The 3340 is a little more of a "rats-nest" of wiring and circuit boards stuck everywhere as compared to the 4010. But I think with a little more research I might be able to handle this! At least my pinch roller arm assembly is sticky but moves and returns.
Thanks so much Jordan... I'm not sure I can do this kind of work on my 1500W but I will search around for someone that might be able to.. luckily I still have the original book on it.
This is great! I just purchased a Teac A-4010s new (if you will) in an unopened box. I'd like to at lease inspect and do standard maintenance before running it. This video is a HUGE help. Thanks for posting!
Really enjoyed your servicing video....That was excellent. My father has one and I will be working with him to see if he will allow me the opportunity to get that vintage up and going again--I think he would really enjoy that. I have two Teac decks, (X-1000R and Teac X-2000R) that I maintain and really enjoy doing it. I am just glad to see your video and the details needed to keep the A-4010S in operation.....Again, thanks for an excellent video!!!
Hello, my name is Ray, I own a Teac A4010S, I bought it while I was in Vietnam in 1968/69 time frame, I took R&R (rest and relaxation) to Tokyo Japan , about 30 min from Musashino ,where Teac Head office was located, where I purchased my tape deck, and a Sansui 5000 receiver, and a Pioneer turntable, I had a Akia cross head, Sony, sold them all and I almost bought a Crown, but settled on the Teac. This was all Hi tec at the time you could get a much better deal buying straight from the horse’s mouth, don’t’ remember the model number of the turn table, all I remember was it had a clear dust cover and cool wood cabinet, this was in the winter of 1969 when I had sent back to the states. Man I had a kick ass stereo system, me and my “friends” use to party all the time and that Teac was at the heart of it just keep on rock ‘in up until about 1980 is when I retired it back to its original box, About 1977 I had it serviced ,play heads replaced and all the maintenance done, that kept it going until around 1980, I think CD’s were becoming a big deal then and it got shove in the back of the closet, and I took it with me everywhere I moved across the country ,moving from place to place I took it out of the box about a year ago and plugged it in , and it still worked , for about a minute , then it took a dump, with almost all the systems you describe in your video. I had to adjust the spring tension on the shut off arm to compensate for the lack of magnetism of the magnet, there is a little bounce when the arm returns, but not enough to affect the shutoff operation. Well, I was 20 then, I’m 72 now and retired aerospace worker so I have a little time on my hands. I sold everything but the Teac, which I was getting ready to sell it, until I ran across your video, so I think I’m going to order the belts and needed parts and see if I can get this thing working again, So I think I’ll restore the thing. I have 3 Book boxes full of tapes I’ve recorded over the years that would be fun to listen to again, sort of like going back in a time machine, of course they won’t sound quit as crisp as before, but fun just the same. I guess after that It will be a hand me down to grand kids or wind up in a yard sale for 10 bucks. Thanks, I may be asking you all for a little help as I go through this referb. Ray
Hello Jordan I got the output level working I had to demagenetize the heads three times and have full output from pre recorded tapes the only issue now is the relay issue with switching the head I have both channels fine playing forward in reverse playing through left channel and forward right in reverse I am grateful for you ideas and help and your great channel all the best be safe jon
This is amazing, thank you so much. I've been holding on to a old teac like this for years. I replaced the belt when I first acquired it but still had problems, but this video is exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you very much. I bought one when I was overseas with the US Navy during the Viet Nam War. I have a bunch of prerecorded tapes that I bought and also about 32 tapes of stuff we copied from each other. Now I can try to make sure it works. I know I need a left "S meter" cause the needle is broken. One of my concerns over the years was if my tapes stretched cause of being stored in the attic. I'm 73 so I don't know if I'll sell it or keep it. I also have a Pioneer amplifier. I'm pretty sure that still works. You're video has eased my mind.
I purchases a 4010SL in the summer of 1971 at the Bình Thủy, Cần Thơ, Vietnam Air Force PX when I was a 21 year old SP 4 in the US Army. I still Have it but have not used it in decades.
Great video ! The Teac I bought of ebay is now up and running,! Mine has a slightly different arm on the left side it unscrews and lifts off instead of staying with the face plate like yours. And yes it is worth the method shown here to everything lubed back and cleaned. It also gets things out of the way so you can heat the shaft of the pinch roller assy.
Awesome video! Definitely helped me get this old A-1200U up and running. Btw, has anyone ever told you that you sound remarkably similar to Hank Hill? Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!
+Jordan Pier Success with the lubrication and belt replacement! Thank you for posting this video! I used my dental hi-speed turbine oil with luer-lock syringe and a luer lock 27 gauge needle to lubricate the motors and other oil-needy parts. But getting where I needed to be to replace the gooey belt was a real challenge. The head cover screw wouldn't separate from the hexnut/screw (inaccessible without tiny wrenches), which was stripped where it connected to the head assembly. I tried ultrasonics and various dental forceps used to remove dental instruments lodged in root canals. No luck. Thankfully, the TEAC id plate was removable from the head cover. Then I was able to hold the hex nut/screw and unscrew the head cover screw. Jeez. That must be one of those insider detail tests that beginners only learn the hard way. Where can we learn about the electronics side of this craft? Testing for failed parts, replacing capacitors, etc? This is such a rewarding experience. Thanks to you and other generous experts, I have resurrected my Dual 521 and now this A-4010S.
Thanks so much for this video! I ended up getting one of these in ruff condition for 20$. Luckily My arm barring was not seized up. I just need a belt replacement. I have never done this before but now I know how. So I will oil everything properly replace the belt and put it back in working order. :D! Thanks again!
Jordan - thanks so much! I inherited a 4010 about a year ago and had new belts (the tape counter belt was very stretched - the capstan belt was simply gone). I was struggling with that middle screw on the capstan plate - I thought there was one but could not see it. Clearly this device was not well designed for such repairs. Your point about cutting the bands holding the wires was the key - I could finally see it well enough to get at it. (Still haven't gotten it back in - going to try with some strong magnets attached to the screwdriver.) It's working - but I still need to find where I put the bag of spare parts that came with it - including the reel turntables. I was also curious about those two screw holding the black plate in place - when I saw that you'd stripped the heads, I decided to go with an impact driver to break them loose - with a small hammer - carefully. Worked. The grease on the capstan roller bracket had also solidified on mine - but I was able to get it separated without a heat gun. Thanks - great video - you saved me sending the 4010 to the e-waste bin!
thanks for your video! i'm repairing this very model. although i did manage to protect the belt while i was replacing it by covering a small portion (about 3") of it with a part of a plastic bag taped around the belt. no grease! that way i didn't have to take the whole thing apart to put on a new belt.
Great video thank you. My belt is gone which I will replace All motors only work in high speed will not go into play mode. Please give me advice, thanks.
Thank you for and excellent job on servicing this reel to reel player I have just acquired one and am ready to service it now that I have an idea what to do and what not to do .....
Hello Jordan I came upon a Teac 4010sl have a tension switch can you explain how that works to me also sometimes when the tape deck is running it will reverse on its own and play the other side can you please explain what i need to get to fix the issue and how i can fix the issue if you can do a video explaining this it would be great thank you I really enjoy your channel all the best and keep the great videos coming have a safe week and a great night and day tomorrow and safe weekend
Jordan, this was EXCELLENT. My ailing uncle bought this model in the late 60s and recently gave to me with several boxes of tapes. Before I even plugged it in I performed the service you demonstrate in the video and prophylactic replacement of the counter belt. Your heat gun method worked very well. Everything seems to be mechanically dreamy, but my right channel only produces a loud hiss from headphone jack, line out of the preamp, and line out of the tape unit (left VU working great, no measurement on the right). Any thought on common causes of the fault? I sprayed and prayed with detox-it, but I'm reaching the end my electronics technical knowledge. Thank you so much in advance, I know it will mean a lot to my uncle to get this equipment working again.
Thank You ! I was just gifted this same Teac 4010s, without the common problems, for the price of a good bottle of bourbon whiskey. It's in mint condition but the meters don't work and I have a weak record levels. Maybe once I've followed your directions that will clean it up. I'll deoxIT. Maybe my record level will come back up ? I have slowing down of the motors after about 5 to 10 minutes. Maybe because of a ageing belt ?
lack of record levels and dysfunctional meters are probably a result of aging electronics in the amplifier box. it might improve the more you use it if the capacitors reform. if the motor is slowing it could be a bad belt, or bad phasing capacitors for the capstan motor, bad motor itself, or loss of power from the transformer. hard to say without having it here
IF you can stall the capstan with your fingers (@ the pinch roller) the belt would be suspect; but with slowing down @ 5-10 minutes, you've got bigger issues: motor run caps probably but be sure to clean the tape path as a build up of oxide from bad tapes (look up Sticky Shed Syndrome) will cause slowing & ultimately stalling & burn out of motors. Clean REC button switches & pots.
I acquired a Teac tca 40 recently. it turned on perfectly, but didn't play. I opened the front per your great instructions and found the capstan belt was broken. in order to change the belt, I had to open the back and fish my hand thru towards the back of the machine to get to those screws to unlock the front frame and service the belt. unfortunately, I bumped a circuit board located above my hand and at the top of the unit, which caused the bracket holding the circuit board to break and now the circuit board isn't connected and the machine doesn't go on. do you know where I can find a new circuit board bracket, so I can reinstall the circuit board to it? thanks for your wonderful help.. and your video is very awesome and explains everything.
Jordan, thanks for the excellent. My A4000S player-same deck as A4010S needs clean/lube (same issues you point out as common) and belts. Unfortunately the previous owner obviously removed the screw for the compliance arm that you said to not remove is missing and I cannot remove the front cover plate. Something in there is hanging up inside the cover in that area. I haven't figured out how to access the area to figure it out. Any suggestions/direction will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much excellent information step by step I've always said if you can make it so simple a layman like myself could walk through a step-by-step process in the end result beautifully running machine my hat's off to you thank you so much for the information....
Thank you for taking the time to show and tell on the 4010. I have one of those and yes they are a great strong machine. I have a Teac A-6300 that I replaced the right VU meter. Problem is that I did not correctly label the wires going to the four studs on the back. Maybe you can help. Color coded wires and which place they go to?
You were a big help with the VM turntable resurrection!! Thanks! Now I am into a Teac A3300SR and cannot get the front face plate off -- nowhere near as nice as the 4010S - no screws on this one. Any ideas?? The pinch roller is frozen - just like your 4010...........thanks, steve
just to clarify: for all those looking for real teaching drive belts CALL TEAC directly. just order a capstan belt for your particular model from their parts department. (323) 727-4840 from 8am to 5pm PST
As someone who owns three different reel decks, and who has attempted the very basics, this is a superb video; easy to understand instructions without excessive "waffle". To make this perfect (for me at least), can you please service a Technics 1506US,, a Studer A810 and a Revox B77. If i may make one observation (it happened to me on the Revox), did you forget to change/repair the tape counter belt? Thanks!
Thank you Jordan for the very informative video. I purchased this deck in 1980 brand new in the box from a friend who bought in 1970 in Vietnam. It has worked flawlessly ever since. Currently, I believe the VU meters may need recalibrating. The right needle moves and the left barely moves....even after playing different tapes. Are there any video resources on how VU meters are recalibrated? Thanks!
I just got one of these at a garage sale for $10. It powers on and lights up but it doesnt spin so im guessing it needs a belt. This video should be helpful. These almost seem simple compared to working on cassette decks.
Excellent tutorial video! I just got one same unit, mine maybe a year earlier (1969) I cleaned up, changed the belts, oiled and fixed the pinch roller assembly. Unfortunately my does not want to start the capstain or the other motor motors either. They are free moving with hand (I oiled them). Power in the unit both VU and power lamp is on. I do not believe you did not changed any Caps?? Could you suggest where should I start to troubleshoot this motor problem? I have the Service Manual also.
I just reply to myself. I made a mistake did not moved the stopping arm after I power up the unit. Stopping arm should move away from the end point in order to start the capstain motor. Now it is working fine. All solenoid and brake etc. Thanks.
Awesome video tutorial. I've been going over this machine and have everything working properly except for a slow rewind, that is slower than normal at first, then almost stops completely. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Jordan
Likely the phasing capacitor for the rewind motor is failing. You can use a ceiling fan capacitor of the same value for replacement. Usually they have a mounting ear to simplify installation
Heigh-Ho, Jordan; I'd like to thank you for the important info. here (i.e. the belt) and to make a few BRIEF remarks... I have been deep in the chassis of my unit, which is serial no. 41747. I saw that you replaced some screws here. I haven't been able to find any that match the peculiar fit of the ones in my set. I haven't been able to match them to any existing metric, I.S.O., etc. standards. This seems like a peculiar proprietary situation. I also had one of the .1 mfd. 400v. P.I.O. caps burst on me, blowing one of the end caps off, steaming off oil vapor and blowing aluminum foil all over behind the face plate. It was truly bizarre... The takeup motor began to rotate, there was arcing, the pinch roller solenoid energized and the capstan rotated ! Only after having removed the face plate and seeing the blown cap did I realize what went amok. In the process of complete electrolytic cap replacement I have found several bad solder connections. I have replaced the germanium and selenium (P/S) rectifiers as well. All voltages seem to be acceptable despite the variation in potential hill. I used polypropylene caps to replace the P.I.O.s and mylar caps as replacements for those on the direction relay PCB. I have, of course, discovered that it's really easy to delaminate the PCB traces and pads in this unit. I just completed work on the transport and am now devising strategies to apply to the amplifier board (48034-1). There... those were "brief remarks", weren't they? I'll continue at a later time. Thanks again for the great servicing video!
Hi, John; I used CDE film capacitors for all of them, including the 1 mfd. on the direction switch cluster terminal board. The CDE part no. (.1 mfd.) is 104MWR400K. The Mouser Electronics part no. is 598-104MWR400K. I used the oscilloscope test to identify the outer-wrap lead of each individual unit (not consistent from one to the next- most caps nowadays do not have a stripe on the end of the outer-wrap lead). You can use a scope or one of the the line-level inputs of your stereo amp. listening for the "hum" when touching the cap. E.G., the outer wrap lead is identified by its connection to the ungrounded high-impedance "center" contact of the RCA connector. I mark 'em with a permanent marker. After having recapped the entire transport (including the 48034-1 amplifier PCB). The sound quality seems to have improved greatly due to the replacement of all the electrolytics. I replaced all the .1 mfd. mylar caps on the relay board and elsewhere as well. Good luck! Dan
I purchased a Teac A-4010S when I was in Thailand in the early 1970s. I sold it to buy a refrigerator in 1977 when my wife and I were first married. I always regretted it. I found one at an estate sale about 6 years ago. I’m in the process of restoring it and your videos has been invaluable. Thanks you!
Wonderful teacA4010s. Maint video thanks❤❤
Jordan's video was incredible. I still have mine from Vietnam and stored for 40 years. I followed his instructions and revived it as well as all the old tapes I recorded. It was like going back 50 years!
As I started researching the repair of my newly acquired A-4010S, I viewed pretty much every UA-cam video available. I found it interesting how many of them referred to your video as the benchmark, one even went so far as to show your video as they recorded their version. I have watched yours several times, so Thank you from 2022!
I have always loved Teac machines - my 1200-U still works since 1972.
Found one about 15years ago. Knew nothing about r2r but cleaned the obvious turned it on and it worked apparently perfect. Pulled out of storage about six months ago, still working. I am anticipating future issues and found this video. GREAT video. Not sure whether to mess with a working unit, but preventive maintenance is probably warranted. Thanks for the video. One of the better ones out there.
Thank you for this servicing video. I bought my 4010S in Frankfurt, Germany when I was in the Army. It was my main source of entertainment as I recorded albums of fellow soldiers and built a large collection that I still have. Now, 50 years later, I want to play those nostalgic tapes of real rock and roll, Doobie Bros, Stones, Grand Funk Railroad and stuff you just can't find in the US. Your instructions answered several questions on setting the 50 or 60 Hz belts on the right pullies, how my pinch roller became so frozen I couldn't get it to work. Other items you covered, I hadn't event thought of and will now redo and do it right. Now, I just need to find your video on how to adjust heads to get the very best quality sound and recording results.
Bought an old 4010S off of Ebay to play with. Both the capstan arm and tape tension arm froze up just as in the video. Removed them with heat as in the video, cleaned and lubed and the mech works great. Pleasantly surprised to find that the audio electronics were working fine after the mech repair and capstan belt replacement. This video was an excellent tool, thanks Jordan if you are still out there!
I purchased a Teac A-4010S in Okinawa in 1969 for $225. I've serviced it myself over the years (Belt, cleaning, lube) and it still works like new! Great video!
Jordan, I purchased a Teac 4010S when I was in Vietnam in 1970. The unit hasn't been working for many years. Will order some belts and your video will make it soooo helpful to service it. Glad you made this video available. Anxious to listen to my old collection of 60's music tapes when I was over there. Subscribed and thanks a million.
Funny, I got mine while stationed in Nam in 1971. Small world. Sadly my unit ultimately died. How I miss it.
Also purchased my A1500W while in Vietnam in 1971
This is yet another thank you for making this video. I was able to get my cheap ebay 4010s up and running with your help. I finally have a decent reel to reel player without having to sell a kidney. Your heat gun trick was especially helpful. If you have a beer fund I will gladly contribute!
Thank you for making this process as easy as possible! I purchased a TEAC A-4010s for $20. I ordered a belt and followed your instructions. Everything worked out great that’s to you! Cheers!
Thank you for making this video. Helped me immensely with restoring a TCA40. Great narrative and delivery.
What a beautiful tutorial! I now have the courage to do a complete maintenance on a very clean but unused machine I acquired recently. Many, many thanks for a wonderful piece of work!
You are the best. So nice to not have to suffer through annoying music, bad grammar and cheap shortcut solutions like so many other so-called repair videos. If a guy can't formulate a complete sentence, can he really be trusted with his techniques?
Just watched your video Jordan. Such a in-depth video. I am restoring a Teac A-4010 GSL, very similar, but with a few different mechanical twists. Thank you so much for this, you are such a careful and thorough technician.
Exceptional, great video. I just recovered my 4010s from the attic after 30 years. Needs work!
Thanks. I just today carried my 4010 down from the attic. It's been there 25 years. I bought the TEAC (used) in college in 1974 and used it through 1990, and then put it in the attic - I am going to attempt the refurbishing. The repair work looks intimidating - but wish me luck.
Very good video, I enjoyed watching it.
I just picked one up with all the original manuals, box and accessories for $45 at estate sale. I'm going to follow your video and hopefully getting it back on track.
Thank you so much for this video Jordan. I just picked up a non working Teac 4010S. Using your video, I replaced the capstan and counter belts and cleaned and lubed all the mechanicals. I followed your video to the letter, except I didn't have to use heat on the transport.....and when I put power to it, the unit cranked right up! I would have never figured it all out without your help. Thanks again.
This is an awesome video Jordan, thanks so much! I recently picked up this same machine from the original owner's friend who purchased it in Vietnam. Came in the original box with manual and is in wonderful shape cosmetically. I removed the front face plate to find the belt broken. Ordering a belt now and will do the full service watching your excellent video. Thanks again, would have no clue what to do without this!
I PURCHASED this deck from my Local Craigslist and a teac 505 ( tube amp deck ) . when i got theses units home i was about to give up on both of them until i came across your Video , your video is most priceless to anyone that is lucky enough to come across the A-4010 s . my deck was stored for 37 years according to the widow that sold it to me . The deck had all the symptoms that u describe in your video , Anyway i followed all yur steps including the heatgun method , lubed all mechanical points reassembled the unit and the RESULTS WERE NOTHING SHORT OF AMAZING and i cant thank you enough for posting this priceless video , would love to seee a maintainece video for the TEac 505 OR 505 R
kEEEP POSTING AND AGAIN THANK YOU
Thank you Jordan! My A-1500u is working once again! Seeing how the pinch roller came off was the deciding thing that lead me to give it a try. My pivot bracket was seized up just like in your video. I did not have a heat gun, but I was successful with some penetration lube. Thanks once again for the excellent instruction, I revived my venerable unit, that has sat dormant for probably 8 years or so. Merry Christmas!!
This reel to reel JUST landed on my bench and this video is a godsend! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
Love your videos, John P! TEACs are fine machines! Myself, I'm a Norwegian, and favour Tandbergs.. have several old ones and a nice TD20A from 1982, which I bought new
just picked up one of these at a local antique store for 65$, its my first reel to reel and I can't wait to service it and get it up and running.
Thanks for your video. Definitely helped me learn about the a-4010sl I got at an estate sale. I guess it was kinda pricey, I paid 96 for it.
Like yours, the pinch roller was completely seized, and the belt was obliterated into nothing. Record function wasn't engaging and pots were dirty.
It's Never been opened before, nor have I ever had a tape deck, so it was fairly easy to repair, add a belt, clean everything, etc.
Played some tapes it came with, it's like opening an audio time capsule.
Thanks!
Great video, so clear in it's instruction. Just picked up a 4010S, earlier than this one I think and was baffled at the concept of installing a new belt through that tiny hole in the back. This is so much better and even though my capstan arm is nice and free can clean that up, too. Let's keep these awesome old machines going! A+
I just took possession of my brother's TEAC 2300S which he put in storage after using it for about a year in '77. The pinch-roller is almost frozen, and I've been able to lightly nudge it into place. Time to do real repairs.
Thank you Jordan, for the most informative video, I took mine apart after seeing it. It was the same typical case, belt turned to mush, seized up pinch roller arm. I took apart all of the components, cleaned and oiled them. The screws for the capstan assembly is kind of a chore with all those wires, without the magnetic screwdriver, but made due with tape.Replaced the belt and now it functions very well. I enjoy your other videos a lot too.
An awesome video. I just acquired a 4010s that was purchased in Vietnam in 1969. One thing I wish you could have done up front is to mount the camera and work with both hands.
Many thanks for your video. I recently received a Teac A4010S, I would not have attempted the maintenance and belt replacement without your video. It works perfectly now, thanks!
Nice video sir! I have an A-7010 my brother gave me years ago, and it worked great in 1987 but had a lot of wow and flutter when I tried it about 15 years ago. It's on my "keeper" list for sentimental reasons and will be moving on priority on my to-do list.
500 subs when you posted this and now it's 20k! That's impressive. Anyway, I just bought one of these and will be doing this exact service when my belt comes in. Thank you Jordan!
Thanks for being a viewer!
I watched every minute to the end. No more scary thing to take it apart. Appreciated.
I just wanted to say thanks for posting this video. It helped me get my Teac A-1200U working as the two are so similar in build.
Really a great common sense approach to repair. I watched it a few times to get my repair right... Replaced the belt and it works fine. The only problem I had was the tape head cover standoff broke off, so now I have to replace it if I can get it out.
So very glad to see your channel back up!
I love your informative videos and appreciate your time making them!
I have a few Teac's 7010sl, 4010sl, A-2050
Akai 1800sd, and a quad
I'm just a beginner but with your helpful knowledge I'm sure I can do it 😉
Thanks again
You are amazing. Just picked one of these up for 50 bucks! Also came with the service manual as well
Thanks. Very helpful for my 4010sl that has been boxed up for over 30 years. Bought it new in Japan in 1971 and just got it out this week. It had every problem you described. Waiting for a belt but otherwise it looks like everything is OK.
Thanks Jordan! Great video! Been pondering the idea of attempting to restore my A-3340 which has been stored for about thirty years. After taking the rear panel off, it looked a bit indimidating. The 3340 is a little more of a "rats-nest" of wiring and circuit boards stuck everywhere as compared to the 4010. But I think with a little more research I might be able to handle this! At least my pinch roller arm assembly is sticky but moves and returns.
This is an invaluable video as I work to restore a 4010s that I recently acquired. Thank you for posting it.
Nice work. I love the sound those machines can produce.
Thanks so much Jordan... I'm not sure I can do this kind of work on my 1500W but I will search around for someone that might be able to.. luckily I still have the original book on it.
Very helpful video! Using your instructions I got my supposedly "working" deck to actually work. It sounds great. Thank you!
This is great! I just purchased a Teac A-4010s new (if you will) in an unopened box. I'd like to at lease inspect and do standard maintenance before running it. This video is a HUGE help. Thanks for posting!
Really enjoyed your servicing video....That was excellent. My father has one and I will be working with him to see if he will allow me the opportunity to get that vintage up and going again--I think he would really enjoy that. I have two Teac decks, (X-1000R and Teac X-2000R) that I maintain and really enjoy doing it. I am just glad to see your video and the details needed to keep the A-4010S in operation.....Again, thanks for an excellent video!!!
Thank you for this, man that is a large amount of work...
I cannot thank you enough for this video Mr. Pier.
Hello, my name is Ray, I own a Teac A4010S, I bought it while I was in Vietnam in 1968/69 time frame, I took R&R (rest and relaxation) to Tokyo Japan , about 30 min from Musashino ,where Teac Head office was located, where I purchased my tape deck, and a Sansui 5000 receiver, and a Pioneer turntable, I had a Akia cross head, Sony, sold them all and I almost bought a Crown, but settled on the Teac. This was all Hi tec at the time you could get a much better deal buying straight from the horse’s mouth, don’t’ remember the model number of the turn table, all I remember was it had a clear dust cover and cool wood cabinet, this was in the winter of 1969 when I had sent back to the states. Man I had a kick ass stereo system, me and my “friends” use to party all the time and that Teac was at the heart of it just keep on rock ‘in up until about 1980 is when I retired it back to its original box, About 1977 I had it serviced ,play heads replaced and all the maintenance done, that kept it going until around 1980, I think CD’s were becoming a big deal then and it got shove in the back of the closet, and I took it with me everywhere I moved across the country ,moving from place to place I took it out of the box about a year ago and plugged it in , and it still worked , for about a minute , then it took a dump, with almost all the systems you describe in your video. I had to adjust the spring tension on the shut off arm to compensate for the lack of magnetism of the magnet, there is a little bounce when the arm returns, but not enough to affect the shutoff operation.
Well, I was 20 then, I’m 72 now and retired aerospace worker so I have a little time on my hands. I sold everything but the Teac, which I was getting ready to sell it, until I ran across your video, so I think I’m going to order the belts and needed parts and see if I can get this thing working again, So I think I’ll restore the thing. I have 3 Book boxes full of tapes I’ve recorded over the years that would be fun to listen to again, sort of like going back in a time machine, of course they won’t sound quit as crisp as before, but fun just the same. I guess after that It will be a hand me down to grand kids or wind up in a yard sale for 10 bucks. Thanks, I may be asking you all for a little help as I go through this referb. Ray
Happy to help. Inbox me at vintageavrepair at gmail dot com
What a pleasure to see a workman who loves his work!
This is the exact machine I inherited. This is the video I've been searching for
just picked one up today watching to see how to service
Hello Jordan I got the output level working I had to demagenetize the heads three times and have full output from pre recorded tapes the only issue now is the relay issue with switching the head I have both channels fine playing forward in reverse playing through left channel and forward right in reverse I am grateful for you ideas and help and your great channel all the best be safe jon
This is amazing, thank you so much. I've been holding on to a old teac like this for years. I replaced the belt when I first acquired it but still had problems, but this video is exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you very much. I bought one when I was overseas with the US Navy during the Viet Nam War. I have a bunch of prerecorded tapes that I bought and also about 32 tapes of stuff we copied from each other. Now I can try to make sure it works. I know I need a left "S meter" cause the needle is broken. One of my concerns over the years was if my tapes stretched cause of being stored in the attic. I'm 73 so I don't know if I'll sell it or keep it. I also have a Pioneer amplifier. I'm pretty sure that still works. You're video has eased my mind.
Thank you for this Vid. I was given 4010s now it’s up and running with your help. Thank you.
Just subscribed, your videos are really easy to follow thank you
I purchases a 4010SL in the summer of 1971 at the Bình Thủy, Cần Thơ, Vietnam Air Force PX when I was a 21 year old SP 4 in the US Army. I still Have it but have not used it in decades.
I just verified the belt change on a teac A-1200U is very similar and practically matches this tutorial
Have had two Suzuki bombs explode. Doing a full recap now. This Video is a lifesaver for proper disassembly and reassembly.
Great video ! The Teac I bought of ebay is now up and running,!
Mine has a slightly different arm on the left side it unscrews and lifts off instead of staying with the face plate like yours.
And yes it is worth the method shown here to everything lubed back and cleaned. It also gets things out of the way so you can heat the shaft of the pinch roller assy.
Awesome video! Definitely helped me get this old A-1200U up and running. Btw, has anyone ever told you that you sound remarkably similar to Hank Hill? Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!
I get Seth Rogan alot. This is the first time for Hank hill!
Great and complete! I have a A-1500 W and very similar mechanically. I've lost my wind/rewind constant torque but yet to start on that. Thanks so much
+Jordan Pier Success with the lubrication and belt replacement! Thank you for posting this video! I used my dental hi-speed turbine oil with luer-lock syringe and a luer lock 27 gauge needle to lubricate the motors and other oil-needy parts. But getting where I needed to be to replace the gooey belt was a real challenge.
The head cover screw wouldn't separate from the hexnut/screw (inaccessible without tiny wrenches), which was stripped where it connected to the head assembly. I tried ultrasonics and various dental forceps used to remove dental instruments lodged in root canals. No luck. Thankfully, the TEAC id plate was removable from the head cover. Then I was able to hold the hex nut/screw and unscrew the head cover screw. Jeez. That must be one of those insider detail tests that beginners only learn the hard way.
Where can we learn about the electronics side of this craft? Testing for failed parts, replacing capacitors, etc? This is such a rewarding experience.
Thanks to you and other generous experts, I have resurrected my Dual 521 and now this A-4010S.
Thanks so much for this video! I ended up getting one of these in ruff condition for 20$. Luckily My arm barring was not seized up. I just need a belt replacement. I have never done this before but now I know how. So I will oil everything properly replace the belt and put it back in working order. :D! Thanks again!
Thanks for the video, Jordan. Just finished up on my 4010s...working great now!
Jordan - thanks so much! I inherited a 4010 about a year ago and had new belts (the tape counter belt was very stretched - the capstan belt was simply gone). I was struggling with that middle screw on the capstan plate - I thought there was one but could not see it. Clearly this device was not well designed for such repairs. Your point about cutting the bands holding the wires was the key - I could finally see it well enough to get at it. (Still haven't gotten it back in - going to try with some strong magnets attached to the screwdriver.)
It's working - but I still need to find where I put the bag of spare parts that came with it - including the reel turntables.
I was also curious about those two screw holding the black plate in place - when I saw that you'd stripped the heads, I decided to go with an impact driver to break them loose - with a small hammer - carefully. Worked. The grease on the capstan roller bracket had also solidified on mine - but I was able to get it separated without a heat gun.
Thanks - great video - you saved me sending the 4010 to the e-waste bin!
thanks for your video! i'm repairing this very model. although i did manage to protect the belt while i was replacing it by covering a small portion (about 3") of it with a part of a plastic bag taped around the belt. no grease! that way i didn't have to take the whole thing apart to put on a new belt.
This video helped me replace the belt on my A1200U
Great video thank you.
My belt is gone which I will replace
All motors only work in high speed will not go into play mode.
Please give me advice, thanks.
Wonderful Mastery. Great Job.
Thank you for and excellent job on servicing this reel to reel player I have just acquired one and am ready to service it now that I have an idea what to do and what not to do .....
Hello Jordan I came upon a Teac 4010sl have a tension switch can you explain how that works to me also sometimes when the tape deck is running it will reverse on its own and play the other side can you please explain what i need to get to fix the issue and how i can fix the issue if you can do a video explaining this it would be great thank you I really enjoy your channel all the best and keep the great videos coming have a safe week and a great night and day tomorrow and safe weekend
This is an excellent video, thanks very much! My compliments on filming your work. Cheers!
Jordan, this was EXCELLENT. My ailing uncle bought this model in the late 60s and recently gave to me with several boxes of tapes. Before I even plugged it in I performed the service you demonstrate in the video and prophylactic replacement of the counter belt. Your heat gun method worked very well. Everything seems to be mechanically dreamy, but my right channel only produces a loud hiss from headphone jack, line out of the preamp, and line out of the tape unit (left VU working great, no measurement on the right). Any thought on common causes of the fault? I sprayed and prayed with detox-it, but I'm reaching the end my electronics technical knowledge. Thank you so much in advance, I know it will mean a lot to my uncle to get this equipment working again.
Brilliant video, nice machine. Thanks for posting.
Thank You !
I was just gifted this same Teac 4010s, without the common problems, for the price of a good bottle of bourbon whiskey. It's in mint condition but the meters don't work and I have a weak record levels. Maybe once I've followed your directions that will clean it up. I'll deoxIT. Maybe my record level will come back up ? I have slowing down of the motors after about 5 to 10 minutes. Maybe because of a ageing belt ?
lack of record levels and dysfunctional meters are probably a result of aging electronics in the amplifier box. it might improve the more you use it if the capacitors reform.
if the motor is slowing it could be a bad belt, or bad phasing capacitors for the capstan motor, bad motor itself, or loss of power from the transformer. hard to say without having it here
IF you can stall the capstan with your fingers (@ the pinch roller) the belt would be suspect; but with slowing down @ 5-10 minutes, you've got bigger issues: motor run caps probably but be sure to clean the tape path as a build up of oxide from bad tapes (look up Sticky Shed Syndrome) will cause slowing & ultimately stalling & burn out of motors. Clean REC button switches & pots.
I acquired a Teac tca 40 recently. it turned on perfectly, but didn't play. I opened the front per your great instructions and found the capstan belt was broken. in order to change the belt, I had to open the back and fish my hand thru towards the back of the machine to get to those screws to unlock the front frame and service the belt. unfortunately, I bumped a circuit board located above my hand and at the top of the unit, which caused the bracket holding the circuit board to break and now the circuit board isn't connected and the machine doesn't go on. do you know where I can find a new circuit board bracket, so I can reinstall the circuit board to it? thanks for your wonderful help.. and your video is very awesome and explains everything.
Excellent instruction, clear and good steps.
This is an amazing resource! Thank you for posting this.
I have an 4300, nice solid deck!
Jordan, thanks for the excellent. My A4000S player-same deck as A4010S needs clean/lube (same issues you point out as common) and belts. Unfortunately the previous owner obviously removed the screw for the compliance arm that you said to not remove is missing and I cannot remove the front cover plate. Something in there is hanging up inside the cover in that area. I haven't figured out how to access the area to figure it out. Any suggestions/direction will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much excellent information step by step I've always said if you can make it so simple a layman like myself could walk through a step-by-step process in the end result beautifully running machine my hat's off to you thank you so much for the information....
Thank you for taking the time to show and tell on the 4010. I have one of those and yes they are a great strong machine. I have a Teac A-6300 that I replaced the right VU meter. Problem is that I did not correctly label the wires going to the four studs on the back. Maybe you can help. Color coded wires and which place they go to?
You were a big help with the VM turntable resurrection!! Thanks! Now I am into a Teac A3300SR and cannot get the front face plate off -- nowhere near as nice as the 4010S - no screws on this one. Any ideas?? The pinch roller is frozen - just like your 4010...........thanks, steve
A3300 pinch roller bearing is accessed from the rear. See my video on the a2300 for how to deal with it.
just to clarify: for all those looking for real teaching drive belts CALL TEAC directly. just order a capstan belt for your particular model from their parts department.
(323) 727-4840 from 8am to 5pm PST
*teac that is...
As someone who owns three different reel decks, and who has attempted the very basics, this is a superb video; easy to understand instructions without excessive "waffle".
To make this perfect (for me at least), can you please service a Technics 1506US,, a Studer A810 and a Revox B77.
If i may make one observation (it happened to me on the Revox), did you forget to change/repair the tape counter belt?
Thanks!
Fantastic instructions on 4010 S. 2-21-24
Thank you Jordan for the very informative video. I purchased this deck in 1980 brand new in the box from a friend who bought in 1970 in Vietnam. It has worked flawlessly ever since. Currently, I believe the VU meters may need recalibrating. The right needle moves and the left barely moves....even after playing different tapes. Are there any video resources on how VU meters are recalibrated? Thanks!
Excellent video, just what I was looking for. Thank you!
Excellent repair video--very well done.
Thanks!
snot is cold good video -- love those decks
I just got one of these at a garage sale for $10. It powers on and lights up but it doesnt spin so im guessing it needs a belt. This video should be helpful. These almost seem simple compared to working on cassette decks.
Very thorough. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent tutorial video! I just got one same unit, mine maybe a year earlier (1969) I cleaned up, changed the belts, oiled and fixed the pinch roller assembly. Unfortunately my does not want to start the capstain or the other motor motors either. They are free moving with hand (I oiled them). Power in the unit both VU and power lamp is on. I do not believe you did not changed any Caps?? Could you suggest where should I start to troubleshoot this motor problem? I have the Service Manual also.
I just reply to myself. I made a mistake did not moved the stopping arm after I power up the unit. Stopping arm should move away from the end point in order to start the capstain motor. Now it is working fine. All solenoid and brake etc. Thanks.
I was thinking of refurbishing my Teac A-2340sx, but not so sure now. So many parts!
lucky for you a 2340 video is in the works!
Looking forward to it! TY
Very similar to A-4300. Find vid for that. MUCH easier than 4010
Awesome video tutorial. I've been going over this machine and have everything working properly except for a slow rewind, that is slower than normal at first, then almost stops completely. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Jordan
Likely the phasing capacitor for the rewind motor is failing. You can use a ceiling fan capacitor of the same value for replacement. Usually they have a mounting ear to simplify installation
@@JordanPier Thank you
Heigh-Ho, Jordan; I'd like to thank you for the important info. here (i.e. the belt) and to make a few BRIEF remarks... I have been deep in the chassis of my unit, which is serial no. 41747. I saw that you replaced some screws here. I haven't been able to find any that match the peculiar fit of the ones in my set. I haven't been able to match them to any existing metric, I.S.O., etc. standards. This seems like a peculiar proprietary situation. I also had one of the .1 mfd. 400v. P.I.O. caps burst on me, blowing one of the end caps off, steaming off oil vapor and blowing aluminum foil all over behind the face plate. It was truly bizarre... The takeup motor began to rotate, there was arcing, the pinch roller solenoid energized and the capstan rotated ! Only after having removed the face plate and seeing the blown cap did I realize what went amok. In the process of complete electrolytic cap replacement I have found several bad solder connections. I have replaced the germanium and selenium (P/S) rectifiers as well. All voltages seem to be acceptable despite the variation in potential hill. I used polypropylene caps to replace the P.I.O.s and mylar caps as replacements for those on the direction relay PCB. I have, of course, discovered that it's really easy to delaminate the PCB traces and pads in this unit. I just completed work on the transport and am now devising strategies to apply to the amplifier board (48034-1). There... those were "brief remarks", weren't they? I'll continue at a later time. Thanks again for the great servicing video!
Hi, John; I used CDE film capacitors for all of them, including the 1 mfd. on the direction switch cluster terminal board. The CDE part no. (.1 mfd.) is 104MWR400K. The Mouser Electronics part no. is 598-104MWR400K. I used the oscilloscope test to identify the outer-wrap lead of each individual unit (not consistent from one to the next- most caps nowadays do not have a stripe on the end of the outer-wrap lead). You can use a scope or one of the the line-level inputs of your stereo amp. listening for the "hum" when touching the cap. E.G., the outer wrap lead is identified by its connection to the ungrounded high-impedance "center" contact of the RCA connector. I mark 'em with a permanent marker. After having recapped the entire transport (including the 48034-1 amplifier PCB). The sound quality seems to have improved greatly due to the replacement of all the electrolytics. I replaced all the .1 mfd. mylar caps on the relay board and elsewhere as well. Good luck! Dan