Repair Underground Downspout - Use T Fitting for Drainage, Not Elbow
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 лип 2016
- Shows wrong "U" and correct "T" to in repair an underground downspout missing a "T" fitting and french drain. Don't use a "U" because the "U" will hold the water, not drain it.
Water from the house cannot just sit in the underground downspout "U". It can only drain down into the ground through a "T". The french drain allows the water to disperse evenly. Pop-ups only lets the overflow drain.
The repair is simple.
1.Remove the pop-up and the "U" fitting.
2. Dig a hole for the french drain.
3. Fill with pea stone.
4. Attach the "T" fitting.
5. Replace the pop-up.
See proper construction at www.mrhardware.com/articles-an...
Order from OUR site!
You can order the grates described here - mrhardware.com/store/#!/Under...
Order on Amazon.
amzn.to/3lgE44g - Навчання та стиль
Excellent Video!!
A true professional.
Wow, thanks, Blair and Tim
I've probably watched at least 100 videos on french drains, storm drains and downspouts and not one video has mentioned the end of the run of pipe and what to do if its not cutting through a curb. You seem to really know what you are talking about. Great video. Thanks
Right!? So frustrating. Glad someone had addressed this
I had a strange sensation watching this video. Then I realized what it was. I was listening to a contractor who actually knows what he's talking about. Thank you.
Thank you, I have been building these in my homes for over 15 years and eventually I got a system I like. Blair
Thank you
Finally someone who addresses the end of the downspout drain off system with a great idea
Very good video, Mr. Hardware, and I like how you use a "t" fitting in place of a pop-up drain! It makes a lot of sense and would correct the problem of "standing" water in the pipe. This is what I want to install in my backyard.👍
Mr. Hardware, Not to sound like a know it all but someone has a comment about the pea gravel itself plugging up, this person is absolutely right I know without question pea gravel does plug up very easily just think about how small the holes are through the pea gravel, it does not take much to plug every hole. Always use Drain rock (clean River rock) is absolutely the best the space is huge between each stone compared to pea gravel and of course the special fabric that is made for this exact project will make the drain last indefinitely because the fabric can only get a thin layer of dirt on it whereas the Pea gravel will build a layer of dirt as thick as the Pea gravel is deep, stopping the seeping action completely.
I agree, however now that I line the post hole with landscape fabric the stones hole enough water to last over 10 years. I had to move one and the old hole looked great.
Great video... Old school, high-quality instructor. Thank you!!!
Best video of this type I've ever watched. A true pro!!
This is a solid fix for a chronic problem. I have three of those pop-up emitters and the pipes always retain water.
Thank you so much! A very worthwhile and instructive video! The T fitting, the deep hole and gravel are best !
I love it, man! I got a spec house, bi-level. drains from the gutters out to the street. Except they are probably completely rotted away by now. I will just short-circuit that with a french drain someplace in the yard and the filter at the downspout. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. I learned quite a bit!
"Couldnt put it closer to the sprinkler line huh" - Mr. Hardware.
That earned a follow haha.
Terrific video. Thanks for the detailed explanations.
Mr. Gilbert, Thank you for sharing this video. I just started your project. My backyard has a retention pond, but water is gathering on both sides of my house between the neighbors. I'm using your T-Pea Stone technique to drain both sides of the house towards the retention pond. You're the best!!
Give me a shovel and I'll get standing water off anywhere... Blair
James, how did it work for you? thinking of doing the same thing
@@randyman8984 I did it at the end of both property lines (long sides). It never backs up. I put a mesh in the downspout holes at the top of each gutter. When I pop the top off the T fittings, no leaves! This technique works! You will not be disappointed.
I paid 10s of thousands for complete professionally landscaped yard and this rainwater management system is better than mine installed 10 years ago. Of course techniques always improve. My guys did not use any bedding gravel and for years now each lawn "U" spout remains full with water. I plan tous e this design to improve my drains as next projectd. Here in Carolinas we get flash torrential floods of 3 to 5inch rains in just one weekend (one coming this Thursday from the Gulf) and these systems have to work perfectly. I hever even considered how much water might be backed up in my gutter downspouts!
Well done! Very helpful ! Much appreciated.
Absolutely brilliant! Solved my problem. Thank you sir!
Great video, had a same problem and this video helped me to fix it... Thank you
Great idea, using the T. My last system in Illinois daylighted into a ditch, but I'm moving to Florida next. No ditches at the property, so this will come in handy to get the water from the downspout to the swale.
Lately I have been lining the post holes or dry-wells with landscape fabric to reduce soil infiltration into the stone bed.
Can this method be done for sump pump drainage in the yard?
What does this look like? Do you have a picture?
@@chelseystadler2872 I have a video coming out where I used a plastic mesh 'cut to size' furnace filter as a base to set a pump on. I is perfect to pump out a small puddle with out sucking in too much mud or debris.
Mr. Hardware awesome! I can’t wait to see this video. Thank you
I was just going to say that.
Very well explained video, smile at the end is priceless. Thank you!
Thanks, exactly what I was looking for
Love the GREAT tips.
The PVC used was called 'thinwall 4" ' or 'schedule 30'. It fits the Filter and the strainer.
Did you use a 90 degree elbow (or coupler) to run from the gutter out to the T?
its sch 35. you must be talking about genova sch 30 dwv.
Excellent video thank you
I recently upgraded my gutters to 6" gutters. My underground drains were a little problematic, but now, it is beyond ridiculous. I'm guessing from the increase in water the gutters are now pumping?
I will definitely be giving this method a try as my yard now had 8 huge mud holes around it from where the gutter drains end.
Thanks!
Thank you so much! Really helped me a ton
I can watch this clip every year ! Thanks
thanks for posting this. Looks like almost my exact situation.
Very helpful video Those boots are straight off the showroom floor!
Informative video. Thanks.
Very informative video. I have been using the same popup outlet for years to discharge my sump pump water out but it wasn't efficient and failed after over time. I recently installed a french drain across lowest points in backyard and extended my sump pump PVC line with a solid corrugated pipe into a catch basin connected to french drain which would eventually discharge water to a storm drain. I did the same thing for downspouts. Your solution acts like a small catch basin which is sufficient for water coming from a downspout. But installing a larger catch basin with french drain that has access to a storm drain or street outlet would be a permanent solution for all of downspouts.
Access to a storm drain... something we all wish we had.
Great innovation and ideas for thought!
Should you line the hole with Landscaping fabric?
You do very nice work.
I'm impressed that you don't use that corrugated black stuff that just collects debris until it's plugged.
Corrugated pipe won't stay in line. It will sag and rise over time leaving a crappy job with low points that will accumulate debris and clog mid run.
Amen bruther!
Very good.
Hi! Thanks for your video, just installed the drainage system similar to this video, but when it was raining last night & still it is raining very lightly now. So my question is that water is filled half of the T but not coming out & staying still. Maybe flowing slowly down as we have put gravel below the T as you have shown, but should the water stay still in the T?
Thank you.
Great ideas
That strainer is a cool idea. Thanks for that! And I almost didn't watch to the end! :-)
Interesting video
Thank you
Thanks!
We just moved one of my 18 year old tees 5 more feet and the old tee and stone looked great.
looks like that downspout was really loose and moving around. Did you have to add another support lower down to anchor it near your strainer?
Of course the downspout needs to be better attached. I'm pushing the underground side of the job. I'll do an anchor video soon.
Thanks for the informative video. Since I'm unable to do this task myself, do you recommend I hire someone who fixes gutters or someone who can fix the drain? Mine is currently clogged. and requires immediate attention.
I would go for a sewer professional. They will have the cable and ability to pull the dead leaves out of the system.
Thank you for such a great video. I’m in the process of making one of these drains but also had a question on the “T” direction. I saw your earlier clarification on wanting the water to go up but am still slightly confused. In either position up or down won’t the hole with stone fill first? While testing it with my garden hose I noticed when I had it positioned up the lip trapping a small residual amount of water in the pipe even when I stopped the flow. This scared me being in Vermont thinking about freezing and re-freezing, I could see that creating an ice dam eventually. With the T flipped down the pipe drained dry every time. Again, won’t the hole fill first no matter the direction of the T? I’ve also got some serious clay in the area of the drain so I’ve gone about 5’ down and 3’ across. It’s a pretty big hole.... any other thoughts on an area with deep freezes and poorly draining soil?
I messed up about the tee, it always flows down. No need to trap water in the line, even though it is pretty hard to freeze water in a 4" pipe only 10% full. We call the 5 x 3 pit w/stone a 'dry well'. I started lining my post holes or 'dry well's w/heavy duty landscape fabric prior to the stone. It will keep soil from infiltrating the stone and making it less porous. One safety is running the drain line further than 10' from the house. Once there is pitch in a lawn away from the house is where I install the tee.
@@MrHardware1 Hi - Can you clarify when you said you "messed up"? Do you that, in the video, you had the T positioned the wrong way, and that from the pipe to the T, it should curve DOWN instead of UP? Thanks!
@@ohaya3596 Yes, the tee should be rolled down to prevent holding any water at all as it drains.
@@MrHardware1 Ok thanks. BTW, your video is STILL timely because my daughter has a new (old) house and we have been checking all the gutter drains and they ALL have elbows like your video showed so we are going to try the T instead. Thanks!
I didn't find one of those angled downspout filters so I used a 9in catch basin that the downspout pours into. It seems to work pretty good. I noticed that the roof granules and scrum settle in the sump part of the basin and can be periodically cleaned out by removing the catch basin grate.
You gotta work with what you can get. They work but do not self clean like the angled ones.
Cleaning the the drain pipe is normal with trees ,I do like the idea of the mini drywell you made at the end , the gutter water will splash off, collecting 95% not sure ?
I so thought he was going to end with "This is the way" lol. Great video though!
I like the Tee idea for additional drainage of end. I use bubblers on three out of four of my downspout drains. I used to have similar leaf filters that would always clog with wet leaves clinging to the filter fins. I have since removed the fins. Anything that does make it down the drain pipe gets blown out once or twice a year during a torrential rain. Have NEVER had a problem otherwise.
Great video, thanks! I am adding a second downspout in my backyard and wanted to use this method. Problem is that it’s a flat yard so I’ll have to dig a slope as I go away from the house. This will cause the tee to be very far the grass line by the time I am done. Question is, can I add an adapter to the top of the tee so that is will eventually sit flush with the lawn?
I usually only pitch the pipe 1" per 10' so it should not be toooo deep. I use a piece of pipe to connect the tee to the strainer at grade level in every situation. Rarely is the yard pitched so well the strainer is right on the tee.
nice
Great video! If I have leaf guards on my gutters, is it necessary to also use the strainer?
Probably not.
In my install I used a 9" catch basin in the line about 3 feet from the down spout. The catch basin handles all debris coming off the roof. I also have gutter guards so the debris is minimal.
I used a pop up but I dug a deep hole below the elbow and filled it with pea stone. I then drilled several holes in the bottom of the pop up elbow so that any standing water could drain to the pea stone and the majority of the water would leave through the pop up.
Its only been in service for a year but it's clean and working perfectly so far.
Any erosion/sink hole issues in the long run using your method?
TheBrownSys
The 10' long run is to prevent water from seeping back to the house. It is a solid pipe so the only erosion or sink hole will be 10' from the dwelling. I have a house on an island with soft soil and my only issue is I have to trim the grass off the strainer once or twice a year since they are over 10 years old.15 seconds w/ a string trimmer.
Thanks for the reply. My concern would be that dropping that much water straight into the ground would eventually create a sink hole but I guess the pea stone is adequate in preventing that. I think I may try this method on a new drain pipe I have to lay on the other side of the house where I won't be able to easily use a popup.
great video, this is exactly what I needed to see as I do not want to use a pop up emitter or catch basin. One question, what is the "sleeve" piece that you are using to connect the 4" cap to the WYE piece?
It is just a short piece of the pipe, that if you don't need to cut the 10' you do need to cut a short piece of in the beginning for this purpose. To connect the t to the strainer can be short or long depending on the grade of your yard. I doesn't matter if you purchased several lengths of pipe for larger systems.
Can you recommend a company in Philadelphia, PA that will reroute or replace underground extenstion?
Blair, loved the video. Do you offer installation of inground gutter drains?
Thanks
-Andy
No, we don’t do any outside work. Gilbertscontractors.com is a list of contractors we recommend, however they don’t go outside of our zip code.
Thanks for making these videos. It's really appreciated. I watch the original one which is what I replicated but we have a rain storm going on tonight and I noticed that there is way too much water flowing back through the channel. I'm not sure if it's because I just use the regular t? I noticed your tea looks a little different I saw that one at Home Depot but didn't get it and I also noticed on this video you talk about turning it upside down which is different I'm not sure why it's turned upside down. With this being said the rain is pretty heavy outside and it's definitely coming out through the mirror but it is also flowing back through the channel even though there is P Gravel there. Just wondering if you have any suggestions?
Stephen, the plan is to have the outlet at least 10’ from the house and have enough grade between the outlet and the house so water has to flow away and not back towards the house. The direction of the tee is not super important but I should have it rolling down. I had a brain fart. The stone below the tee is for winter drainage only.
@@MrHardware1 OK thank you and I appreciate the comments I will check slope again but I believe I have greater than 1% slope on a 10 foot run so it should be enough I’m not sure I will double check. With being said, I wonder if I could put a cap on the bottom of the T and then drill a couple of half inch holes for drainage. This would still allow the water to go out through the bottom and not freeze here in Toronto Canada,
@@whymedude88 don’t cap the bottom of the tee. Once the stone below is saturated all the water will flow out the top. If there could be water saturating the soil too close to the basement extend the pipe 5 or more feet away from the house.
Neat . I wondered about the landscape fabric too. Thank you for the update . Now, what about the pitch, and the length .? If you would please , I also was interested in the grate that got installed above ground , that is 45* and inserted into the pipe right underneath the down spout .
I like to pitch the pipe at least 1" per 10 ft from the house to the tee. The 45 degree filter at the downspout works great in keeping leaves out of the underground system. It is available on mrhardware.com. It sits directly on a short piece of 4" sec 30 pvc then directly into an elbow out into the yard. The filter, not the angle is the secret.
Hi. could you please provide a materials list for this project. Thank you
Debbie
Would this work well with a house that has 5 downspouts and 1800 square footage. Downspouts that go out to the road are all clogged up. Looking for alternative fix. About an acre from the road.
I have 5 of these on a house on an island and they still work perfectly. I did have to relocate one tee because I did some grading of earth around the house and I extended it 5' farther away. Drainage away from the tee is important, and not towards the house.
I just installed one of these yesterday but I had the T going downward, heavy rain today and it's draining but slowly, a few hrs later and it was still pretty full.. should I flip the T upward like you did in this video or be patient? Thx
No the tee should flow down, I messed up although water level is raised only 3/4" by installing upside down. Flow in a 4" pipe is not influenced by either installation. Water draining is controlled by the saturation of water in the soil around the base of the tee. It will drain once the ground dries up a little.
Thanks for the video. If the ground gets saturated, the T fills up and starts ponding, will the water start to back up the downspout? My backyard is small, flat and no opportunity to further grade at discharge but would love to take this approach so long as it didn't back up.
I would extend the pipe at least 15’ from the house to reduce or eliminate water from coming back to the house.
As long as it's pitched properly and not being blocked by debris, it's impossible for the water to back up - that's simply gravity and water equilibrium principles at work.
Blair,
Don't you need to place landscape fabric in the hole before you add the pea stone? That way the dirt doesn't foul the pea stone???
Chris, yes pea stone does make for a better job. When I made large drains I cover over the top of the stone around the strainer. This one should last over 15 years w/out the fabric.
Blair,
Thanks for the video. I've followed it and installed 2 of these over the last 2 days at our new home. 2 more to go.
The soil is so hard here with clay and rocks, I was only able to go down 2' in one of the holes with my post hole digger.
On 3 of the 4, I am only able to go 7-8 feet due to the location but I am running them right up to the drainage swale between mine and my neighbor's house.
I hope that is sufficient.
One other thing I did was purchased a package of the 4" x 10' drain sleeve filter fabric and poured my pea stone into it in the hole, instead of using landscape fabric.
I have a question regarding the height of the 4" strainer.
This is brand new construction and they just finished the final grade and will be installing the sprinkler system and sod in any day now.
Should the bottom of the strainer be even with the grade?
Yes, all my strainers are level with the ground so as not to be a trip hazard or be conspicuous.
@@MrHardware1 Thanks for the response. Just had our first rain since installing. All of the strainers popped out. Any suggestions?
@@jeffsstuff6575 Two things, I cut some of the plastic webs in the strainer to allow for self cleaning and better water flow (as long a a dog or other pet cannot get a leg stuck in the hole) and I drill small holes in the top edge of the strainer and install 1" x #6 stainless screws to secure the strainer to the pvc pipe.
I have gutter guards so all of the leaves and shingle grit stay on top of them. This looks like a great way to run the extensions. Now, I have to sort through the PVC vs. corrugated arguments... Im seeing many proponents of both
The finer mesh guards have come out since I did this video. Atlas and Gutter Glove both look like better systems that are very similar to each other. It’s not on my list but Gilbert’s Hardware is looking for a vender to supply us… It’s tough to get a salesperson, wholesale, to respond. Not enough help I guess.
@@MrHardware1 I'm using something called Raptor. I've had them on since 2019. I took one section off to replace it (a large stick fell and punched a hole in it) and the only stuff I found in the gutter was dust, like silt.
@@GriffinsFanChris yep, it looks like a good product also.
Excellent video. Can you please provide a source (link) for the downspout strainer?
Send me an email or go to mrhardware.com and order one there. We ship every day.
I am thinking about putting this system in along the side of my cement driveway. Do you think this would be ok 3 feet from the driveway? I actually could just run the water from downspout down the driveway but the look is not great.
I have some 24" deep under my driveway, no problems. The main goal is to have the outlet lower than the bottom of the strainer so it drains.
What is the actual name of the PVC T that you use? I can't find that in my local store here. If I knew the actual name of the part I could perhaps order it online. Also where the debris filter is, what kind of PVC 4" piping is used? Thanks for any info.
The PVC used was called 'thinwall 4" ' or 'schedule 30'. It fits the Filter and the strainer.
Does it matter how much you fill the hole with pea stone? I filled my drain up to the bottom of the T fitting and seems to be taking a while to disperse water. Is that normal?
It usually takes a few days depending on the pourousity of the soil.
Why use a sanitary 'T' upside down? It seems like it would keep some water in the line since the water has to climb at the end. Great vid!
That was a momentary lapse of reason... I install them going down. Flashback from the 60's.
Why not use pop up on top of T? The strainer prevents stuff from flushing out more than pop up
Mr. Hardware, if I've buried a French Drain against my house 2 feet down--and the exit hole is on a slight grade (which would be about 2 feet 8 inches below ground)--how am I going to get that water to rise up 2' 8" and out in the ground above? Thanks!
I try not to let customers bury a collector of water next to the house. I want to pitch the earth away from the house and collect it in a drain tile buried 5 to 6' from the building.
You are so deep and close to the house you will need a pump to lift the water up and away.
Good tips, hope you fastened the last leg of that spouting better it was blowing in the wind away from the drain
Everything looked good until you put the grate connection under the downspout.
That will splash everywhere even with light rain. There are better connection methods going to a downspout.
How about this live action shot? ua-cam.com/video/EKQ6bwVilVg/v-deo.html. It looks like less than 5% loss in a heavy rain.
During very heavy raining will the water back up and run out close to the house? It seems like it would since the downspout is not all the way down n the pipe, im just trying to learn because I am trying to fix mine now, im not trying to be negative, I appreciate your video, thanks.
If you feel your roof area is over average raise the strainer up 6" or so, it will buy cushion for the water to be forced out the strainer in the lawn. I have a 30' x 40' roof area dumping into a strainer close to my paver walkway and I lose hardly any water off the strainer during a heavy rain storm.
Great video. How should I proceed if the elbow is glued to the pipe?
Cut the pipe at the elbow and insert the tee, or use a coupling and extend the pipe to discharge farther from the house. Remember the purpose is to keep the basement dry, get the water away from the house.
How did you get the original 90 deg fitting off the pipe? First you were kind of banging it with a shovel, then there was an edit and it was off. What happened in between?
I was struggling, it took 20 clips with the shovel until it brook loose. We need to keep the videos short to keep viewers focused so we cut when I'm losing.
Will the strainer function well in areas that easily flood? I'm in Houston.
Rain water will still come out the strainer even if it is under water. The tee with the stone under it is so the system drains after a rain, in Michigan so it does not freeze, in your area to prevent mosquito breeding.
Can i use this system with a discharge line from a sump pump? Coming off a 2 in pvc ?
Yes we have. A few considerations are how much bigger to make the post hole (french drain), and to insure excess water has a proper path to overflow to once the french drain is saturated.
I directed my dry-well further away from the house so I wouldn't have a swamp in the middle of the yard. I must of did an overkill on my dry-well cuz it took me 9 of those bags to fill it up, I went 3' wide 2' deep.
Is there any concern with the pvc pipe freezing? I've been looking into both pvc and the n12 corrugated dual or triple wall corrugated pipe for when i run my pipes underground in my yard. I live in wisconsin
That is what the pea stone under the tee is for. It drains all winter here in Detroit, for better protection dig the hole deeper and use 2 bags of stone. Blair
I'm talking about the pvc pipe itself. As in the pipe from the downspout to the tee
As long as it has a 1 to 2" pitch from the house to the tee it will self drain into the pea stone. Even in winter, but we only get frost 12 to 18" deep. I have 8 of these, with 3 being 15 years old.
Mr. Hardware thank you I appreciate that. Two more question just so I understand Lol. Sorry i like to learn.. Why should we install the tee upside down like you did with the curve going up? And instead of the downspout screen would a catch basin work to catch any debris? Or are those not smart for colder areas? Thanks again for your replies. Youre awesome
The tee should be installed rolling down, I was experimenting with a house with a large roof area and I was worried about water flow going up out of the strainer. Down is the way to go. The strainer does not miss much water at all. I feel better than a catch basin because the angled strainer clears debris better. Use what is available in your area, this is not science, just fun. Blair
I have quite a bit of clay. I am currently approx 2ft deep. As I was using the hose to clean out it seems like the water is just pooling and filling the hole. Fill with pea gravel and go or dig a bigger hole?
Dig as deep a hole as you can, line it w landscape fabric and then stone it. 2’ isn’t bad but here in the clay pit of Michigan but I have made them almost 4’, but not always…..
@@MrHardware1 thanks!
Hi sir Very good video my 18 month old downspout extension pop-up came off after a long hard rain and when I looked at it, the elbow was full of water. I dont know how to disconnect the buried extension from the downspout because they used some sort of hardware that isnt a screw and I lack the tool (teeny ratchet?) to check and the installer wont come out for a small repair. So I guess I'm asking, if the elbow is full of water, could it just be that the buried extension pipe is full of water because the rain stopped suddenly and there isn't enough down angle to push the rest out (i.e. is it possible the rain was so strong it pushed so much volume fast that the pop up came off but when it stopped, it just sat there and I dont have a problem?)? The reason I asked is that the pop up got pushed off. We have no trees nearby to clog our gutters. Also just curious why you didnt consider relocating the exit away from the sprinkler (not a jab) just wondering
I don’t like using an elbow at the pop up, it doesn’t drain like a tee w/a stone drain below does.
will this system work if I have a downspout in the rear of the house and I drain it in the backyard?
What is important is that water flowing out of the strainer flows away from the house.
Can you angle the hole slightly away from the structure?
Yes, even run it along the house for a while, just be sure the outlet is 8' or more from the house and the water from the drain-tee flows AWAY from the house.
Great idea with the French Drain, going to be doing this myself. One thought, is the filter necessary at the base of the downspout when you already have a gutter guard type filtration on the gutters? I'm thinking no because the two options essentially are performing the same task - keeping the drain system clear of debris.
Not as long as the gutter guard does it's job. And if the system starts to fill w/leaves if your gutter guard fails you can add the debris filter.
Can you run the drain pipe all the way out to the street? Is that leagal? Can one drill through the street curbe to have the water out into the street?
I put the tea just shy of the curb so that when the water overflows it comes out on the lawn and then flow into the street. Most cities don’t like you to curb cut because if you’re in a freezing area, the water coming out turns the area into a skating rink, which is hazardous for vehicles and pedestrians.
Would a 3" PVC pipe be sufficient to do its job?
I would downsize only if the roof area was very small or I couldn't get 4". Smaller is of no gain and of little cost savings.
Why not cut that awful blue pipe, or switch it out for white, or black to match the downspout strainer?
That system looks fantastic, and was very informative. Thank you.
I installed this set up but pipe seems to be filled after rain. How long would you say I wait for it to drain prior to being concerned?
It should be gone in 4 days.
Mr. Hardware thanks! I did two and one works great, the other doesn’t seem to drain. May have to dig up and line hole maybe?
@@paulieb334 could be too much clay in your spot. deeper should help... ouch!
Mr Hardware...I have a 100' run starting at 6" deep ending at 24" deep. In this run I have 3 downspouts running into 4" corrugated solid. My question is at the end of the run whether I choose a "T" or a pop up? Will the water rise to the top and flow out? Im worried about the distance and depth of the end run. The closet downspout to the end of the run is about 15 feet away.
I live in Canada with alot of clay soil. I tried just dumping the run into the ground but it wont drain in to the earth in a decent time. Were talking days if at all. This is why im thinking of a solid elbow pvc and up the 24" to the ground level. Before we dug this trench i did test our natural grade and the water ran well. should i be looking at filling in and starting over with a much more gentle slope? If so...how deep should the end of the run be to allow the water flow up through the vertical rise and out at the ground level?
Any help would be appreciated..Thanks..Jim
Jim, I wouldn't change the drain pipe or pitch. A tee or an elbow equals the same rise of water from the bottom of the pipe to the lawn. I'd stay with the tee, I'd be tempted to run the discharge further than 15' from the house. I'd be looking to dig a large pit filled with stone to store excess water that was below surface. 2' x 2' x 2' or deeper. We call that a dry well. I line the pit with landscape fabric before pouring in the stone. Cover the stone with the fabric, 2 layers, then some dirt and the grass. Rain should come out of the strainer once the stone is overcome and flow away from the house. Once the rain stops the pit should weep into the earth in a day or two. You could have better clay than us, but in Detroit it is a problem also.
Blair
@@MrHardware1 Blair...thank you..excellent information. I have come up with this idea and Im going to test it tommorrow. I am going to cap the ground side of the t and seal it tight..essentially making the t a small basin. Im hoping when the water runs it wont take long to fill that small basin and start pouring out the top of the t where i have another cap that ive perforated like a shower drain. This will be at ground level. In the bottom cap i will have a few small drilled holes to allow the leftover water to seep out slowly( hopefully not saturating the soil too quickly creating pooled water). As I've said..our soil doesnt drain very well.
Once the rain stops there will hopefully be very little left in the solid pipe and small t basin...leaving little to seep out through the small drilled holes in the bottom cap.
I was also considering adding a 2x2x2' drywell under the basin too as an extra help to slow drainage into the soil. Some of the ground level water im sure will find its way into the drywell after coming out of the top cap...and..leftover water seeping out after the rain would have somewhere to go to keep the grass dry. Even considering putting a
5 gallon bucket into the ground(as the drywell) to hold that extra seeped water. Drill some small holes in the bottom of it as well. Of course it will be sitting on top of and surrounded by crushed 3/4 gravel clean.
Is there anything you would add or change to this idea?
Jim
The bottom of the tee is not to store water. It is to disperse water the day after the rain. Your downspout can generate 20 or more gallons in a couple of hours of rain. No easy way to store that, just let it run out of the strainer and on the lawn and hopefully away from the house. The french drain below the tee will drain the system the day after the rain stops. Line the french drain w/landscape fabric to keep soil from ruining the stone. Blair
@@MrHardware1 Thanks for the advice...I ended up using the t as a breather and clean out about 5 ft from the end of the the run. My trench runs 120 ft total and slopes from from 8" to 24" deep at the end of run. The last 20 ft i have all gravel. The trench fills up to about 15 ft back from the end and then starts pouring out of the end. I completely filled the trench one day...less than 24 hrs later i was down to 5.5" of water in the pipe...24 hours after that it was less than 1". Im happy with my results.
@@MrHardware1 i realize the T isnt much of a container to hold water. That was kind of the idea...it fills up quick and starts pouring out of the top quickly...not leaving too much water to sit in the trench...but it worked the way I did it as well....it would be easy to change later if need be...the 120 ft trench is dug already...taking oot 5 ft of trench to repair later is a cake walk lol
Hi Mr. Hardware 🙂! Would it be a good idea to use a Tee PVC as a catch basin instead of a regular 6in catch basin?
I’d use a catch basin over the tee. This system is designed to be economical and w/parts that are easy to acquire. Most of my videos are geared in that direction.
@@MrHardware1 Thank you for your reply. Is that because the catch basin has more space & air for water to flow easier?
@@hienkn360 To me it is because it has a larger area to collect debris and usually easier to clean out when full of crud.
@@MrHardware1 That makes sense. I appreciate your help, thank you! 👍🏻
I've never had any success using drywells in Georgia-Carolina clay. It holds water in a way very similar to silicone. I'm not sure this would make sense as a solution to freezing. Why wouldn't the water be able to leave via the primary drain path? Is it to be assumed that the primary drain is frozen solid?
I attempt to teach installers to locate the outlet at a grade that drains away from the house. The ‘French drain’ I install below the tee is to prevent winter freezing not absorb a roof full of water. I’m sorry for your problem, how far are your tee’s from the foundation? We are in solid clay in Michigan also.
@@MrHardware1 I've never had any success using drywells in Georgia-Carolina clay. It holds water in a way very similar to silicone. I'm not sure this would make sense as a solution to freezing. Why wouldn't the water be able to leave via the primary drain path? Is it to be assumed that the primary drain is frozen solid?
In Michigan the winters are harsh enough to freeze water right at the tee in the ground. The French drain underneath is to prevent the water from standing very long in that tee area so it cannot freeze. Yes 99% of the water is supposed to go to the pipe hit the T come out the strainer and flow away from the house. Usually I like it to be at least 10 feet from the house so I prevent any damage to my foundations.
Now that end where you put the tee is kinda close to the house won't that water flow back into the basement over time and cause more issues? Should be further from the house
Typically they are at least 10’ from the house. If there is a grade issue where water is trapped and could flow back towards the house I go longer.
@@MrHardware1 under ground water flows to the point of least resistance I'd go as far as possible from the house
I’m a total amateur but I just installed one of these systems only a few days ago. Where do I get rocks like that? From what I can see the area closest to the house has dried up but the outlet is full of water like you mentioned. I ran a perforated pipe wrapped in landscape fabrics which seems to be working well but to keep the area from getting soaked, how much space needs to be filled with those rock?
I only use solid pipe until I'm 10' or so from the house. Then perf pipe is fine but I want water away from the building. Any stone is fine, pea stone up to cobble stone all afford the water surface area to soak into the soil. Line the hole with landscape fabric to reduce soil infiltration into the stone.
Mr. Hardware Thank you for the quick response. I’ll get on that today.
Worked like a charm! My grass may be dead but the water has cleared up! Thank you @Mr. Hardware
Where do you get the green strainer?
A good hardware or landscape supply.
My dirt is like 99% clay. What adjustments should I make for this?
Our area is all clay also. Dig a little deeper hole and use more pea stone.
You need to use a soil separator fabric and then fill with stone. Otherwise, the soil will eventually fill in between all the stone and it'll plug up.
Thanks, we started doing that last year, however a 7 year-old strainer-tee assembly I dug up to move 5' farther had great looking stone below the tee. Blair
is the bottom of the T that faces the hole open or closed?
It is open to a hole filled with stone to allow it to drain over a day or 2 after the rain stops. Mainly to reduce breeding for mosquitos and from freezing in the north.