Had a neighbor show me this when I was working on a leak. I live a LONG ways from town so couldn't just run in to get parts. Learned this almost twenty-five years ago and been passing it along ever since, thanks for doing the same !
Good idea as another cool trick to have up your sleeve, but after 20 years in old school plumbing it's quicker to file the stop out of the inside on a regular coupling so you can slip it wherever you need it... and use whatever length of pipe is necessary. Just mark things so you know where you need to wind up. BTW, since this video was published there is now a company making both split couplings and split conduit so you can do repairs without removing wires! They are also UL approved for the job.
Used this method. What a great idea. Was able to do a repair with what I had already - no trips to the store. Nice clean look afterwards. Nice and easy - Thank You
This is brilliant!! I can't tell you how many times I've not dug a big enough hole and had a repair piece that was about a 1/2" too long and in the process snapped the pipe trying to crank it in there, or had such a tweaked fitting that it leaked. OMG, this will save me hours of work next time I need to fix a small crack. Thank you so much!!!
It works great, but you need to liberally apply the PVC cement, and work quickly. Be sure to watch and share my GY6 video playlist below. Thanks Chuck! ua-cam.com/video/1o4E2pdEv-s/v-deo.html
My home is 25 miles from Home Depot. I have a 1 1/2" pipe that goes from my 5HP Well pump to my pump house. The backhoe guys broke it a couple years back and I repaired it with one of those push on unions with rubber rings repair fitting. Now it's leaking and I'm going to use your method. 30 years as a pipefitter, this was new to me. Thanks!
Not a big fan of those compression repair fittings. Also check out my PVC video playlist below. Thanks for watching Paul! ua-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT.html
Again, watching your videos are the best. Simply amazing for us DIYers. Practical, simple, cost-effective, and ingenious. Keep-up the great work. I'm a fan for life !! Thanks again.
Thank you for posting this method, I used it with great success in an extremely tight space. I had to watch the video a second time to remember the part about the dish soap lubricant because I ran into trouble performing the 2-1/2" flare. The 1-1/4" flare went fine without soap, but no way could I do the 2-1/2" flare without it. Once I added that critical soap step, all went golden and this custom repair fitting worked awesome - thank you, sir!
Glad it helped! Be sure to watch my PVC testing & tips video playlist below and most importantly SHARE. Thank you ua-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT.html
I was going to subscribe to your channel but saw that I already had! I thought your voice was familiar. Your microwave video saved me about a thousand dollars and way boosted my confidence in fixing appliances. Many thanks.
You're very welcome Mike! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thanks ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
I saw your video and used your method to expand a ¾ inch coupling so it would fit over a ½ inch socket. This saved me many hours of work or calling an irrigation professional. A ½ inch PVC line had broken off just where it was attached to a tee. The tee was on a large PVC pipe (1 ¼ or 1 ½ inch). There was another tee about 6 inches away from this. To make matters worse there were two other large lines in the same trench up against it along with a bunch of wires. Due to the angle of the broken line, it would have been very difficult to remove it from the tee. By gluing the ¾ inch coupling over the socket I was able to easily replace the short line to the affected sprinkler head.
Thank you for sharing such an excellent video! After viewing your part 1 in a few weeks ago, I jumped starting applying it with a few modification because of my special situation. However, I had failed about 5 times from minor water drippings at the end of the coupling being pushed from. I wish I had seen this part 2 video after seeing your part 1. My problems: A 1.5" 90 degree schedule 40 tee for my 32 years old swing pool had a small crack. One end of the the tee is immediately connected to a 45 degree elbow. The pipes are under a pathway concrete; parallel with the other six 1.5-2" pipes. The broken tee and the section needed to be replaced are under and close to the other pipes; the space of a section with the closeby pipe is only about 0.25-0.5" which disallows using an union or an expandable compression fitting. My needs: The repair should be permanent because of the difficulty to access the area. Do not consider any part using o-ring because the pool chlorine will slowly deteriorate it. Appling the modified part 1 method: Since the pipe cannot be be moved upward/downward to slide in the coupling as instructed in your video, Instead of smoothing out the the center stop and the tapering section closed to the stop, I found Spears 429-015NS from SupplyHouse allows to be slided to both fixed ends and then slided toward the broken section. Spears' instruction is to apply primer/cement on the pipes only but not on the coupling which will be solidified before moving. However, after five trials, the fixed end of the coupling still had small drops even under no water pressure. In the beginning I thought it was from insufficient primer/cement applied, especially under the pipe which cannot be seen, and then I change the cement to Oatey one-step cement but still apply primer when it is possible. However, later I found it might not be the case because most of the cement on the pipe were pushed toward the other end by the coupling and leave insufficient cement behind. For a prevention to correct the potential leaking problem, I also cut the coupling into two and slided them into both ends, before installing the coupling, so that I can push them back to the coupling by using PVC cement or JB Weld original epoxy to stop the leak or make addition protection even if no leak. After seeing your part 2 video, I decide not to use this option because I am unsure if this will be a permanent fix. Your part 2 method allows placing cements on both sides: the pipe and coupling, which should avoid the problems I encountered. Problem encountered by applying your part 2 method: Could not slide a pipe into the heated pipe after a few trials which also mentioned in one of the comments for this video. My first problem was trying to slide in directly, but I found I should slide in at an about 12 degree angle to push the heated pipe downward and then rotate upward to slide in, which I am going to try next. The second problem is to judge if the pipe is softened enough. My heat gun has a temperature control between 140-1112F. Since a PVC pipe stats softening from 250F and becomes viscous from 350F, I started from 900F but it seems taking too much time and not softened enough. I will try a higher setting. My other choice is to use a butane torch for steak cooking. Since my longer bell pipe section is about 3" which might take too long to heat and soften it. I will try to heat only the first small section, about 1", for a easier sliding in. After it is slided in, I will heat the rest section to slide in further. Will this work for a 76 years old man?
That's pretty cool. We are not allowed the do that in the state I live in. But it is good information to have in an emergency situation. Thank you for sharing
Glad it was helpful John! Be sure to watch my PVC tips and testing video playlist below and share. Thank you! ua-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT.html
You're welcome Tom! Make a bunch and have them on hand. Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, use supplied Amazon links to support my channel when making purchases(No added cost to you), and share links to my videos with many others on social networking sites. Thank you ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
this works for general purpose applications. however, it will create a weak point where the outer pipe transitions back down to the original diameter. i know because i just replaced a cracked pipe on which the installer had used this method. to be fair, the pipe had been stressed pretty good by growing tree roots and may well have failed eventually anyway.
Just tried this on a buried 1-1/2" sch 40 repair and it worked but, it took very hard pulling to get it to where it should, thought I wouldn't be able to get it there for minute. From this experience I would use a slow setting cement for 1-1/2" and up.
People need to know these tips which aren't shown on YT. These type of videos, along with my appliance repair, and "Free Energy Scam" videos compensate me for all my hard work. If I had to rely on view counts(advertising revenue) from my very good electronics related videos, I'd starve. LOL These videos pay for my electronics related videos.
You're welcome! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, use supplied Amazon links to support my channel when making purchases(No added cost to you), and share links to my videos with many others on social networking sites. Thank you ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Glad you think so Martin! Be sure to check out my PVC video playlist below and share. Thank you ua-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT.html
Thanks! You're welcome. Be sure to check out my wide range of videos for many other helpful videos of interest to you, and most importantly share. ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
what sort of pressure are you talking about in the original pipe? i would have wrapped the heat shrink around the original crack and shrunk it down safe and permanent, i have done that to pipes at my parents place back in 1986 and it is still working fine.
Of course it does. :-) Be sure to rate thumbs up, check out my extensive video playlists for other great videos of interest to you, and share my channel with others. Thanks for watching!
Glad you liked the video! Be sure to watch my PVC testing videos below and share the video links. Thank you ua-cam.com/video/doPXNWC1Iig/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/qHo4heljrSg/v-deo.html&t
As usual, UA-cam “plumbing experts “ assume a lot. So, you want me to buy a heat gun to make a repair that I can do by digging out four feet of the pipe. Ok, but that’s less energy burned which means I don’t get to eat that piece of chocolate cake. 😋 Thanks for the tip.
Glad you enjoyed the video Ken! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others. Thank You
Thanks for the video clear easy t understand. might have to invest in a heat gun...i assume a hair dryer won't do the job? Thanks again. I have a few issues at home that I think I will repair using what you've outlined here. THanks again
So how many of us are going to have a heat gun on hand or be able to supply power to a heat gun everywhere there is a leak. Why was there a different tool used to heat the pipe when the video changed angles
Not a bad idea but using the time to make these fittings, I would instead just dig and expose 1 foot more pipe per side and use the standard slip coupling (with a center stop), install on one side and lift up both pipes 5 inches high and join them together. Much stronger for 20 cents.
It is a great video very impressive but I would highly recommend whoever is using this method only use schedule 40 not scheduled 20 because schedule 20 it's too thin to do it good luck with all your price. It looks easy but practice makes perfect
I'm not clear how to determine the size of the repair/one piece pipe? How much longer is the repair pipe than the cut area on the pipe to be repaired? ( hope that makes sense)
Tried this but am I doing it wrong. I inserted the pipe hot and I leave it untill it cools and it get stuck every time. Even with the soap or grease. Any help?
Use liquid dish soap, apply a thin film on the outside of the pipe used for stretching, once it cools, you should be able to pull or twist it off. The video below is another example. Thanks for watching! ua-cam.com/video/-X1He24pcsE/v-deo.html
Take a coupling .with a knife whiddle the inside center out . mark where to slide to and slide back so you can reline the pvc and glue so the coupling slides back into place and your done
Both good, but these are ideal for a quick repair. You make them and have them on hand. Thanks for watching! Be sure to share the video link with others.
I'm wondering, though, if heating the pipe that much degrades the pvc material, then stretching it out weakens the strength/integrity of pipe even more? I realize most is reinforced by the other pipe being glued inside it, but what about at the point it goes from stretched to original size?
Any suggestion on how to repair a cracked of 4 inch pvc blue pipe burried 4 ft on the ground under a concrete slab without exposing and replacing the whole piipe. Temporarily, we used a carbon steel 6 inch dia. Pipe and fabricated a jacket clamp to cofined the leaks.
He didn’t mention you need slow setting cement otherwise you will not be able to move it. A much easier way is to get flexible pvc pipe. Much quicker and a lot easier
Pipes rarely break under a concrete sidewalk. I may make a video showing how to insert a pipe under a sidewalk for electrical pipes and water. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore That is awesome! However, I still have one question after watching it. After flaring, the wall is stretched thinner. In normal joints the thinner section will be reinforced by the inner pipe wall so it's not a problem, but I do the in-line repair fitting like your other video, part of the thinner wall will not be reinforced by the inner pipe. I suppose that could be the weakest part?
The correct way to do this is the 90 up the pipe and go straight across moving pvc and wiggling it weakens the weld will work for a while but will leak again
As long as the end of the PVC pipe being inserted into the other pipe has a good bevel on it, it will go in. You need to place the beveled end at an angle over the end of the PVC pipe being enlarged, and roll it around to widen the end before trying to insert it. :-)
Thank you! I've tried but still struggling. It's a great idea, don't misunderstand me, but yeah, I've bevelled more the 2nd and 3rd 'round, but I can see it needs a bit more 'touch' and practice. Thanks for your reply. I still give your video a thumbs up!
adamtki I had to slightly bend a 4 inch long piece of 3 inch pvc and I put it in a vegetable steamer and boiled a few cups of water underneath it and it turned into a noodle in about 1 minute.
@@electronicsNmore That's what I figured. Got my pipe reformed as advertised, but it was to tight on pipe, but worked great on any new pipe. Must be dofferent manufacturers
Can not find previous video link. Looked everywhere I know including going to your home page and scrolling through every topic that seems relevant. Don't see the url "in the description below". Moving on. A shame, you seem to have what might be usable tips, but can't start on video 2 when so much seems to be on unreachable video 1. Thanks anyway.
You're right. You have to click the "Show More" link first. Still getting use to looking for those small, non-button looking links. Watched both videos. Really good info. Thanks and subscribing.
The fact that you don't actually show the fitting being put together in an actual scenario leads me to believe that this is harder than you leave it to be... The reason compression fittings and other fixes are available is because you need the room to slide the repair kit back and forth so that it grabs enough of the pipe because if not you'll just get leeks
Great hack, but don't try this with fast set pvc glue! I know the hard way. I was doing this sort of repair this afternoon and was in a hurry (mistake) and without thinking grabbed the wrong glue, the fast glue. OOPS. Now I have even more to cut out and fix. Most of the time I use fast set (red) for those wham bang glue it now jobs because it sets almost immediately, which is PRECISELY WHAT YOU DO NOT WANT IN THIS CASE! The glue has to stay workable long enough for you to reposition the pipe!
It is a good idea but I find that my time is too valuable than to make one of these. It is far faster to spend the money to buy the repair fitting that uses no glue and to get the job done without the worry of the glues starving somewhere along the repair and have to do it over again.
You are probably right but to me, my off time is very valuable to me. I would never just go out and make one to have on my truck for stock, and to hope it is the right size for when I do need it. Like I said, good idea but unless you are way out on the back 40 and too far to go to the hardware store, I'll just pop into HD and pick one up!
@@royallclark6331 I'm curious what you would pick up at HD - a screw-to-tighten compression fitting, or one of those slide couplers? Both of those have O-rings - any concerns of leakage from movement of the pipe due to ground movement from seasonal changes? But even the compression coupling requires some flexing of the existing pipe ends to get it on, especially if there is just a small piece of damaged pipe cut out so the working gap is small.
@@thebordernow Well, for one thing, I'm lucky that I live on the Big Island of Hawai'i and don't have to worry about season changing ground movement.. Earthquakes, that another story ;) .... I do think that there would be a lot of bad feedback by now on those fitting if they had any flaws in them. I would feel better using one of those than jury rigging something up. JMHO... BTW.. I would think that if you are in an area that you needed to worry about movement do to the cold, I would thing that the pipes would (should) be below the frostline and not be of a concern...
for repairing? NOT, because there is no gap to move the tube, so, when you are doing this, the others connection can be damage But for new piping path, YESIs not proffessional worker who want, even if he believe to bePlease go ahead with electronic exeprience
ok I challenge you dude, show us how to repair a fitted pipe, for exemple, an exhaust duct of a sink with your buried pvc pipe method, please show us, just simple as your video. if you have problem I can teach you.
Chemu Kef Hit the road buddy. I have no time for UA-cam Trolls. I don't get paid enough to put up with this nonsense from people like you. :-) One more comment doubting my video, and you're banned. I don't upload bogus videos on this channel.
I like the simple explanation and straightforward repair without deviation to irrelevant issues,great video and solid repair,thank you 👍
Had a neighbor show me this when I was working on a leak. I live a LONG ways from town so couldn't just run in to get parts. Learned this almost twenty-five years ago and been passing it along ever since, thanks for doing the same !
Good idea as another cool trick to have up your sleeve, but after 20 years in old school plumbing it's quicker to file the stop out of the inside on a regular coupling so you can slip it wherever you need it... and use whatever length of pipe is necessary. Just mark things so you know where you need to wind up. BTW, since this video was published there is now a company making both split couplings and split conduit so you can do repairs without removing wires! They are also UL approved for the job.
Used this method. What a great idea. Was able to do a repair with what I had already - no trips to the store. Nice clean look afterwards. Nice and easy - Thank You
This is brilliant!! I can't tell you how many times I've not dug a big enough hole and had a repair piece that was about a 1/2" too long and in the process snapped the pipe trying to crank it in there, or had such a tweaked fitting that it leaked. OMG, this will save me hours of work next time I need to fix a small crack. Thank you so much!!!
It works great, but you need to liberally apply the PVC cement, and work quickly. Be sure to watch and share my GY6 video playlist below. Thanks Chuck!
ua-cam.com/video/1o4E2pdEv-s/v-deo.html
My home is 25 miles from Home Depot. I have a 1 1/2" pipe that goes from my 5HP Well pump to my pump house. The backhoe guys broke it a couple years back and I repaired it with one of those push on unions with rubber rings repair fitting. Now it's leaking and I'm going to use your method. 30 years as a pipefitter, this was new to me. Thanks!
Not a big fan of those compression repair fittings. Also check out my PVC video playlist below. Thanks for watching Paul!
ua-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT.html
Again, watching your videos are the best. Simply amazing for us DIYers. Practical, simple, cost-effective, and ingenious. Keep-up the great work. I'm a fan for life !! Thanks again.
Glad you enjoy them. Be sure to share links to my videos on social networking sites. Thank you!
Thank you for posting this method, I used it with great success in an extremely tight space. I had to watch the video a second time to remember the part about the dish soap lubricant because I ran into trouble performing the 2-1/2" flare. The 1-1/4" flare went fine without soap, but no way could I do the 2-1/2" flare without it. Once I added that critical soap step, all went golden and this custom repair fitting worked awesome - thank you, sir!
Glad it helped! Be sure to watch my PVC testing & tips video playlist below and most importantly SHARE. Thank you
ua-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT.html
I was going to subscribe to your channel but saw that I already had! I thought your voice was familiar. Your microwave video saved me about a thousand dollars and way boosted my confidence in fixing appliances. Many thanks.
This is brilliant. I never knew PVC pipe could be flared like this. About to try it.
edit: So far, so good! Thank you so much for this video.
You're very welcome Mike! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thanks
ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
You are the man.i wish i wouldve seen this before i spent 4 days trying to fix blue underground cts pipe thats hard to find couplings for
Excellent idea. I will pre-make couple of each size and leave them in my tool box.
I saw your video and used your method to expand a ¾ inch coupling so it would fit over a ½ inch socket. This saved me many hours of work or calling an irrigation professional. A ½ inch PVC line had broken off just where it was attached to a tee. The tee was on a large PVC pipe (1 ¼ or 1 ½ inch). There was another tee about 6 inches away from this. To make matters worse there were two other large lines in the same trench up against it along with a bunch of wires. Due to the angle of the broken line, it would have been very difficult to remove it from the tee. By gluing the ¾ inch coupling over the socket I was able to easily replace the short line to the affected sprinkler head.
Most clever incredibly helpful DIY hack I've seen in a while - simple and easy to do with reasonably available tools. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! Be sure to rate thumbs up, look over my extensive video playlists for other great videos of interest to you, and share.
excellent
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to rate thumbs up and share. Thanks
Thank you for sharing such an excellent video!
After viewing your part 1 in a few weeks ago, I jumped starting applying it with a few modification because of my special situation. However, I had failed about 5 times from minor water drippings at the end of the coupling being pushed from. I wish I had seen this part 2 video after seeing your part 1.
My problems: A 1.5" 90 degree schedule 40 tee for my 32 years old swing pool had a small crack. One end of the the tee is immediately connected to a 45 degree elbow. The pipes are under a pathway concrete; parallel with the other six 1.5-2" pipes. The broken tee and the section needed to be replaced are under and close to the other pipes; the space of a section with the closeby pipe is only about 0.25-0.5" which disallows using an union or an expandable compression fitting.
My needs: The repair should be permanent because of the difficulty to access the area. Do not consider any part using o-ring because the pool chlorine will slowly deteriorate it.
Appling the modified part 1 method: Since the pipe cannot be be moved upward/downward to slide in the coupling as instructed in your video, Instead of smoothing out the the center stop and the tapering section closed to the stop, I found Spears 429-015NS from SupplyHouse allows to be slided to both fixed ends and then slided toward the broken section. Spears' instruction is to apply primer/cement on the pipes only but not on the coupling which will be solidified before moving. However, after five trials, the fixed end of the coupling still had small drops even under no water pressure. In the beginning I thought it was from insufficient primer/cement applied, especially under the pipe which cannot be seen, and then I change the cement to Oatey one-step cement but still apply primer when it is possible. However, later I found it might not be the case because most of the cement on the pipe were pushed toward the other end by the coupling and leave insufficient cement behind. For a prevention to correct the potential leaking problem, I also cut the coupling into two and slided them into both ends, before installing the coupling, so that I can push them back to the coupling by using PVC cement or JB Weld original epoxy to stop the leak or make addition protection even if no leak. After seeing your part 2 video, I decide not to use this option because I am unsure if this will be a permanent fix. Your part 2 method allows placing cements on both sides: the pipe and coupling, which should avoid the problems I encountered.
Problem encountered by applying your part 2 method: Could not slide a pipe into the heated pipe after a few trials which also mentioned in one of the comments for this video. My first problem was trying to slide in directly, but I found I should slide in at an about 12 degree angle to push the heated pipe downward and then rotate upward to slide in, which I am going to try next. The second problem is to judge if the pipe is softened enough. My heat gun has a temperature control between 140-1112F. Since a PVC pipe stats softening from 250F and becomes viscous from 350F, I started from 900F but it seems taking too much time and not softened enough. I will try a higher setting. My other choice is to use a butane torch for steak cooking. Since my longer bell pipe section is about 3" which might take too long to heat and soften it. I will try to heat only the first small section, about 1", for a easier sliding in. After it is slided in, I will heat the rest section to slide in further. Will this work for a 76 years old man?
That's pretty cool. We are not allowed the do that in the state I live in. But it is good information to have in an emergency situation. Thank you for sharing
Very clever, filed away for future use, thanks.
Glad it was helpful John! Be sure to watch my PVC tips and testing video playlist below and share. Thank you!
ua-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT.html
Thank you for the tip. Very much appreciated.
Glad you enjoyed the video Pat
Great tip, just what I was looking for to fix my sprinkler system pipe....thanks!
You're welcome Tom! Make a bunch and have them on hand. Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, use supplied Amazon links to support my channel when making purchases(No added cost to you), and share links to my videos with many others on social networking sites. Thank you
ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
this works for general purpose applications. however, it will create a weak point where the outer pipe transitions back down to the original diameter. i know because i just replaced a cracked pipe on which the installer had used this method. to be fair, the pipe had been stressed pretty good by growing tree roots and may well have failed eventually anyway.
TOTAL nonsense. It's clear your installer did a lousy job. The solvent welded connection, when done properly, is STRONGER than the original pipe.
Just tried this on a buried 1-1/2" sch 40 repair and it worked but, it took very hard pulling to get it to where it should, thought I wouldn't be able to get it there for minute. From this experience I would use a slow setting cement for 1-1/2" and up.
Make the repair coupling a little looser, then it will slide easier. Practice makes perfect. :-) Thanks for watching!
open toed flip flops are always a good choice for home repairs
I'm highly proficient with flip-flops. I've been wearing them for 25-30 years.
Love these types of videos, I do recal the one you made on this topic in the past. This reminds me as to why I need to get a heat gun, so THANKS
People need to know these tips which aren't shown on YT. These type of videos, along with my appliance repair, and "Free Energy Scam" videos compensate me for all my hard work. If I had to rely on view counts(advertising revenue) from my very good electronics related videos, I'd starve. LOL These videos pay for my electronics related videos.
Excellent idea
Great and thank you.
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to check out my wide range of videos and share. Thank you
Excellent! Thank you so much for sharing the tip!
You're welcome! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, use supplied Amazon links to support my channel when making purchases(No added cost to you), and share links to my videos with many others on social networking sites. Thank you
ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Great videos on both episodes 1 & 2. Thanks for sharing electronicsNmore!
Glad you like them Rob! Be sure to check out my PVC video playlist below and share. Thank you
ua-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT.html
This is unfreakin believable! Thank you Man!
Glad you liked the video! Be sure to rate thumbs up, check out my extensive video playlists, subscribe, and share my channel with friends. Thanks
Another great trick! 👍 Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Genius!!!
Glad you think so Martin! Be sure to check out my PVC video playlist below and share. Thank you
ua-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT.html
Great info! Thank you
Thanks! You're welcome. Be sure to check out my wide range of videos for many other helpful
videos of interest to you, and most importantly share.
ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Older videos, but still relevant. I just subscribed,thanks.
Thanks for the sub!
excellent video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very useful video.👍👍👍
Glad you think so!
You could also try wrap around heat shrink tubing, works a treat.
That won't last long under pressure. What you see in this video is the best way to make a permanent repair. Thanks for watching
what sort of pressure are you talking about in the original pipe?
i would have wrapped the heat shrink around the original crack and shrunk it down safe and permanent, i have done that to pipes at my parents place back in 1986 and it is still working fine.
Whoa, it really works!
Of course it does. :-) Be sure to rate thumbs up, check out my extensive video playlists for other great videos of interest to you, and share my channel with others. Thanks for watching!
Good idea.
Thanks George! Be sure to share my channel with others.
Great video!! Thank you
Glad you liked it!
Bro you are the man!
Glad you liked the video! Be sure to watch my PVC testing videos below and share the video links. Thank you
ua-cam.com/video/doPXNWC1Iig/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/qHo4heljrSg/v-deo.html&t
More Genius! thanks! Excellent idea!
Cay Rome Be sure to share. :-)
Very Clever! Thanks for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists, rate thumbs up, and share. Thanks
As usual, UA-cam “plumbing experts “ assume a lot. So, you want me to buy a heat gun to make a repair that I can do by digging out four feet of the pipe. Ok, but that’s less energy burned which means I don’t get to eat that piece of chocolate cake. 😋
Thanks for the tip.
love it! Thank you!
Very well done ( How To ) has always.
All my best.
Bobby
So we have to to use the same size pipe.wow.smart move thanks.sir
Yes. You flare the ends.
Great! Love it
Like both videos
Ingenious!
Glad you enjoyed the video Ken! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others. Thank You
, hey man your video is great thank you very much this is extremely helpful.,,👍👍👍👍👍.,
Thanks for watching Jose! Be sure to share my channel with many others.
Fantastic! Thanks for the information. :)
You're welcome! Be sure to rate thumbs up, check out my extensive video playlists, and share my channel with friends. Thanks
I wished I had seen this one after I saw your other one. I am going to be repairing the next one this way. (If there is another leak).
I have many videos that will keep you busy for a long time. :-) Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video clear easy t understand. might have to invest in a heat gun...i assume a hair dryer won't do the job?
Thanks again. I have a few issues at home that I think I will repair using what you've outlined here.
THanks again
By experience, the hair dryer barely shrinks electric insulation tubing, not enough heat.
Plumbing heat torch maybe
This is great information to have. Two thumbs up from me
Thanks Gary! Be sure to check out ,my extensive video playlists(Especially my PVC related videos), and share my channel with others. :-)
Great tip !!
Thanks Tom!
Keep them coming!
As long as viewers share my channel with others and support my channel, there will be many more videos to come. :-) Thanks for watching
So how many of us are going to have a heat gun on hand or be able to supply power to a heat gun everywhere there is a leak.
Why was there a different tool used to heat the pipe when the video changed angles
Nice
thanks for this vid ...
You're welcome. :-)
Is there a specific reason for cutting it far away from the pipe?
Not a bad idea but using the time to make these fittings, I would instead just dig and expose 1 foot more pipe per side and use the standard slip coupling (with a center stop), install on one side and lift up both pipes 5 inches high and join them together. Much stronger for 20 cents.
Disagree. Again. :-)
It is a great video very impressive but I would highly recommend whoever is using this method only use schedule 40 not scheduled 20 because schedule 20 it's too thin to do it good luck with all your price. It looks easy but practice makes perfect
I'm not clear how to determine the size of the repair/one piece pipe? How much longer is the repair pipe than the cut area on the pipe to be repaired? ( hope that makes sense)
3" longer than the section cut out. 2" flared on one size, and 1" the other.
Tried this but am I doing it wrong. I inserted the pipe hot and I leave it untill it cools and it get stuck every time. Even with the soap or grease. Any help?
Use liquid dish soap, apply a thin film on the outside of the pipe used for stretching, once it cools, you should be able to pull or twist it off. The video below is another example. Thanks for watching!
ua-cam.com/video/-X1He24pcsE/v-deo.html
Take a coupling .with a knife whiddle the inside center out . mark where to slide to and slide back so you can reline the pvc and glue so the coupling slides back into place and your done
I have another video showing that. :-)
Good
Yep
I know that there are limited options but does sliding back screw the glue ?
No, there's plenty to be distributed, and the pressure used in the water line is low (Usually 40 - 80 PSI)
Great idea. so which way is better? this way or the first way you showed? is one stronger than the other? thx
Both good, but these are ideal for a quick repair. You make them and have them on hand. Thanks for watching! Be sure to share the video link with others.
I'm wondering, though, if heating the pipe that much degrades the pvc material, then stretching it out weakens the strength/integrity of pipe even more? I realize most is reinforced by the other pipe being glued inside it, but what about at the point it goes from stretched to original size?
No, the factory heats the ends of 10' lengths of PVC pipe to flare them.
Any suggestion on how to repair a cracked of 4 inch pvc blue pipe burried 4 ft on the ground under a concrete slab without exposing and replacing the whole piipe. Temporarily, we used a carbon steel 6 inch dia. Pipe and fabricated a jacket clamp to cofined the leaks.
The big blue pipe that has the bell ends with a large o-ring?
@@electronicsNmore yes
@@electronicsNmore yes. 4 inch blue pipe with bell end and large o ring.
He didn’t mention you need slow setting cement otherwise you will not be able to move it. A much easier way is to get flexible pvc pipe. Much quicker and a lot easier
Regular set no problem.
Yes he did. Please reference the 6min mark. : )
very good, Do you have one to replace water pipe under sidewalk?
Pipes rarely break under a concrete sidewalk. I may make a video showing how to insert a pipe under a sidewalk for electrical pipes and water. Thanks for watching!
Can you pressure-test these flared joints? I was told the heat will weaken the pipe.
Already did. Look in my pvc tips video playlist. :-)
@@electronicsNmore That is awesome! However, I still have one question after watching it. After flaring, the wall is stretched thinner. In normal joints the thinner section will be reinforced by the inner pipe wall so it's not a problem, but I do the in-line repair fitting like your other video, part of the thinner wall will not be reinforced by the inner pipe. I suppose that could be the weakest part?
The correct way to do this is the 90 up the pipe and go straight across moving pvc and wiggling it weakens the weld will work for a while but will leak again
Wrong. LOL. The (4) 90's method is a bad idea. You're creating a lot of friction loss.
does the heating method work with CPVC?
Both soften, but CPVC at a higher temp.
Notice the most difficult part is omitted; actually getting one pipe STARTED inside the other! I think it's going to take a bit more practice.
As long as the end of the PVC pipe being inserted into the other pipe has a good bevel on it, it will go in. You need to place the beveled end at an angle over the end of the PVC pipe being enlarged, and roll it around to widen the end before trying to insert it. :-)
Thank you! I've tried but still struggling. It's a great idea, don't misunderstand me, but yeah, I've bevelled more the 2nd and 3rd 'round, but I can see it needs a bit more 'touch' and practice. Thanks for your reply. I still give your video a thumbs up!
*****
I do this all the time, it does take practice. Make sure the end if soft enough.
Can you dip it in boiling water or does it need to be hotter?
212 degrees F is likely not hot enough.
adamtki I had to slightly bend a 4 inch long piece of 3 inch pvc and I put it in a vegetable steamer and boiled a few cups of water underneath it and it turned into a noodle in about 1 minute.
Dude it leaks, just buy a slip fit and a coupling. Save time and time
If it leaks, clearly you did it wrong. LOL Go buy something that wont last as long as my repair.
What's the dish soap for?
Allows easy removal after thermoforming.
@@electronicsNmore That's what I figured. Got my pipe reformed as advertised, but it was to tight on pipe, but worked great on any new pipe. Must be dofferent manufacturers
you need to make a video on working concrete, so who ever poured your sidewalk could do a better job...................................JS*
The best file for this job is a rough cut 3/8 inch rat tail file.
I prefer a small 1/2 round.
I actually find this method weakens the joint.
Nonsense.
Can not find previous video link. Looked everywhere I know including going to your home page and scrolling through every topic that seems relevant. Don't see the url "in the description below". Moving on. A shame, you seem to have what might be usable tips, but can't start on video 2 when so much seems to be on unreachable video 1. Thanks anyway.
What? The link is CLEARLY posted in the video description area. I just tested it.
You're right. You have to click the "Show More" link first. Still getting use to looking for those small, non-button looking links. Watched both videos. Really good info. Thanks and subscribing.
Time consuming. Just go buy the repair coupling and be done
Frank gman I make these is 3 minutes. If you can find them ready made, great buy them.
One question. Is the dish soap used as non stick between pipes?
Yes. :-)
deepcritik lube
The fact that you don't actually show the fitting being put together in an actual scenario leads me to believe that this is harder than you leave it to be... The reason compression fittings and other fixes are available is because you need the room to slide the repair kit back and forth so that it grabs enough of the pipe because if not you'll just get leeks
What I made in this video installs fairly easily.
Someone should manufacture these
They may already have these at plumbing supply houses.Thanks for watching!
I think I have seen them on a dealer's website.
I just didn't have enough strength to do the sliding. lol
When you heat form, make sure the male end is coated with liquid dish soap, and make sure the PVC is soft enough,
Great hack, but don't try this with fast set pvc glue! I know the hard way. I was doing this sort of repair this afternoon and was in a hurry (mistake) and without thinking grabbed the wrong glue, the fast glue. OOPS. Now I have even more to cut out and fix. Most of the time I use fast set (red) for those wham bang glue it now jobs because it sets almost immediately, which is PRECISELY WHAT YOU DO NOT WANT IN THIS CASE! The glue has to stay workable long enough for you to reposition the pipe!
You'll never get it done using fast set. LOL Only regular or slow set.
In both insertions you didn't show the initiating of the insertion. Come on now.
More free energy scam video please :)
It is a good idea but I find that my time is too valuable than to make one of these. It is far faster to spend the money to buy the repair fitting that uses no glue and to get the job done without the worry of the glues starving somewhere along the repair and have to do it over again.
But you have time to sit around, watch tv, and do many other things? LOL What I made in this video is far superior to what you can buy in the store.
You are probably right but to me, my off time is very valuable to me. I would never just go out and make one to have on my truck for stock, and to hope it is the right size for when I do need it. Like I said, good idea but unless you are way out on the back 40 and too far to go to the hardware store, I'll just pop into HD and pick one up!
@@royallclark6331 I'm curious what you would pick up at HD - a screw-to-tighten compression fitting, or one of those slide couplers? Both of those have O-rings - any concerns of leakage from movement of the pipe due to ground movement from seasonal changes?
But even the compression coupling requires some flexing of the existing pipe ends to get it on, especially if there is just a small piece of damaged pipe cut out so the working gap is small.
@@thebordernow Well, for one thing, I'm lucky that I live on the Big Island of Hawai'i and don't have to worry about season changing ground movement.. Earthquakes, that another story ;) .... I do think that there would be a lot of bad feedback by now on those fitting if they had any flaws in them. I would feel better using one of those than jury rigging something up. JMHO... BTW.. I would think that if you are in an area that you needed to worry about movement do to the cold, I would thing that the pipes would (should) be below the frostline and not be of a concern...
for repairing? NOT, because there is no gap to move the tube, so, when you are doing this, the others connection can be damage But for new piping path, YESIs not proffessional worker who want, even if he believe to bePlease go ahead with electronic exeprience
Sir, you have no idea what you're talking about. LOL. I use this method all the time. I suggest you watch my videos, because you'll learn plenty.
ok I challenge you dude, show us how to repair a fitted pipe, for exemple, an exhaust duct of a sink with your buried pvc pipe method, please show us, just simple as your video. if you have problem I can teach you.
Chemu Kef
Hit the road buddy. I have no time for UA-cam Trolls. I don't get paid enough to put up with this nonsense from people like you. :-) One more comment doubting my video, and you're banned. I don't upload bogus videos on this channel.
Talk is easy, show it or shut up.
If you watched my 1st video, you'd see how it's done.