UPDATE: It has been over a year with this one repair and the switches have been working as new everything since. Also, Dielectric grease is not a conductive material in its self. But it will not stop electricity from passing between contacts when they touch. So this Dielectric grease acts more like an overall dirt blocking barrier to help the inside of the switch stay cleaner longer.
Agreed. I've already replaced all three of my switches. That black carbon build up that you get in your hopper also builds up on those switches. I sanded the carbon deposits down until it didn't stick anymore. They aren't very good switches. In a pinch, you can take the wires off the back of the switch and use electrical tape to tape the connectors together to close the loop and you can continue your cook until you fix or replace the switch. This has been my only headache with this cooker. I wish Masterbuilt would have recessed the switch plunger below the surface and had a contact built into the doors that went through a hole to depress the plunger. That would have easily protected the switch from the grease and carbon build up that causes these things to fail.
This video into the ‘weeds’ of micro switch maintenance was PERFECT! Definitely a tedious but very effective solution vs throwing them all out and waiting for MB to process an order. THANK YOU!!😎
Fantastic video! Great information! A buddy of mine forwarded me your video... I bypassed all 3 switches, drilled 3 toggles installed next to the CPU.... In the face of my 1050... Now I control the the continuity!😁 Also.... watch the fan....occasionally you'll have a piece of charcoal lodge into the blades. You'll turn your unit on and no fan...switches will work etc...but no fan! Easy fix too...removing the fan is VERY easy... Thank you for this video again!
Good video. My bottom door switch trips after the unit runs for about half hour. The door appears to be warping slightly as it heats up reducing pressure in the bottom corner where the switch is. . The switch needs to be pushed in about 1/16 of an inch more to make contact. Starting doing this after my first cook.
I feel like the switch on the lid bugs me anyway, I don't want my temp regulated when barbecuing with the door open, I like to bbq. Thanks for the video the button on my switch under the lid completely broke and I couldn't get the temp above 500 and now I know why. I am now going to remove the switch and connect the wires underneath bypassing the safety feature!
Brandon, mine only goes up to 500 and will not go above. Did you get an OPEN message. I did not. 4th time I cooked on it. Pretty sad for an 800+ dollar pit...
At ~6:20 you mention that dielectric grease passes current. I want to clarify that dielectric grease is an insulator. Care should be taken to prevent it from getting on the contact surface. Many dielectric grease brands are food safe, so that would be something to look for for those who are worried about food contamination.
You continuously recommend NOT taking the switch apart. Is there a way to clean out the grease/smoke from inside without taking it apart? Looks like there is a small hole on the side of the switch. Mine allows the fan to operate correctly. It's just the display that isn't correct. The app on my phone is able to show the correct temperature. Thanks for figuring out the problem. I was thinking it was the PID controller.
I found the similar issue today, mine was blocked inside, i just connected directly till I find a better replacement. Inside the switch is nothing wrong, except for the enclosure, is somehow squeezeda and this is blocking for the button to go outside/inside, blocking the movement.
Funny you say that. I’m on my second replacement. I haven’t modded the original or my 1st replacement, but I have them. Just bought some dielectric grease to do the mod cause I know the replacement 2 will fail as well.
It sounds like the easy solution from the manufacture is to simply have some silicon or rubber nipple to go over the switch externally to seal it. This would prevent anything getting in there period.
Could very well be. Those decisions are boardroom members only kind of thing. I gave it my best shot and its working fine now. Do you own one of these grills?
@@MXP90DL Yea the 1050. I think the issue is that with the amount of movement in this switch a cover for it would not last long, too much ware. Not sure why they could not have just used a normal momentary vandal proof switch that would have been sealed and thus liquid and dust would not be an issue. It would not stick up as far but nothing that a little part on the switch or on the doors etc could not resolve. My plan is to wire bypass switches so I can override the signal to closed if and when needed. I still like the safety of the automatic switches and control so if they ever break I will try to clean them out and or replace them.
@@zeroibis magnetic reed switch would do nicely. Completely sealed and it would be done. I wanted to do my grease idea first and if it was not successful, then I would have gone this route
@@EdMargaretKettwig Oh man, I think we found the answer: www.grisk.com/images/product_pdfs/roller/rb_roller_ball.pdf Or this might be a better direct replacement. Same action as the current switches except it is now a reed switch and sealed: www.grisk.com/images/product_pdfs/roller/ts20_tamper_plunger.pdf
I wonder how much Dielectric grease is exposed on the plungers after this. There have been times when moving a hefty turkey in the smoker I would accidentally graze the plunger. Not sure how safe/unsafe that type of grease is on food. I am having the same problem though. I wonder if it would have been better if they put the plunger on the lid and not the grill.
Good question. You got me to remove the rain cover and look at switch. It is dry, the plunger does not show anything from this repair. Maybe after putting it all back together It had grease all over it. But now with dust, smoke and just the air it is looking normal. Have you watched my out take on this repair where I share more details? If your interested you will see tests I did and more about the grease. ua-cam.com/video/pZTsB6zW4AY/v-deo.html
Do you think the wiring will melt near the hooper and under the control panel over time? And do you have any ideas on how to prevent it from happening with a mod/fix?
Do I think the wiring will melt? No. I have given a think or two at times and have touched a few things to see. The fan for example, I figured it got hot during a cook and was thinking about a backup in case it burnt out. Like a little kid I touched it expecting I would get burnt and nope, it was actually cool. When I examined all the switches I fixed I did not see them running hot. The few wires that are near hot surfaces have a shielding over them and even those are not getting cooked. Our ovens in our houses, and some are self cleaning with high heat must have 6 times the wires as these grills and last a lifetime. I think we are safe and will never see a problem. But hey, sometimes Stuff Happens but these would be real easy fixes I think. Unplugging the power from the controller while its still on Will likely kill the electronics faster. Good question and I can see why you would ask in the way that MB just has many of them hanging loose everywhere.
So I just ordered two spare switches. My theory is I don’t want to pull them out until I need it. But I don’t want to get caught in a situation without a plan. So order new ones and maybe operate on those now and and when the ones in place go out I can just pop them in or maybe I’ll replace them earlier and have the originals as backups
Marc, its good to have a backup plan. My switches failed or to correctly state it became intermittent after about 10 to 14 cooks. I read where a few others also reported that. I think it has a lot to do with how grill was being used. I am sure others got a lot more cooks and maybe some have not seen any issues yet. So when I went to order replacements they were all on backorder. This is where my journey began and I wanted a cure. Your plan sounds good. If you one day are holding a bad switch. Take it apart very slowly infront of your video camera taking special notice on the switch contacts and their placement with each other as to witch side the contacts touch each other. You DO want to reinstall them in this exact manner to work correctly. I have found that I have not had one hiccup with my switches since. Many many cooks and high temp cleanouts have been performed and switches are not showing any flaws. My plan to correct the problem for me has worked well. I am now going into my first winter where it is outside and gets some rain and I will see if it holds up for all that. For me, worse case is that one year it holds up. Best case Is I never have another problem. In any case, the repair is so easy it will no longer matter for me and I do not have backup switches yet. Hey, I like your plan and it looks like your grill will continue to give you many many great cooks. G ary
I actually did! I did it about a month ago with a low voltage rocker switch. I had cleaned and put the dialectic grease in the original plunger switch and it did work for a while. Eventually it became gummed up and stopped working again. I had enough, and replaced both plunger switches. Works great now with the manual switches. No more surprise shutdowns.
So if I don't want to take the switch apart, can I still clean it and/or get grease inside it? I've already had to replace one switch, and I'd love to do something to preserve them for the future.
I think so. Maybe it will not work as long, but rather well enough to work well till it starts to show signs of needing washing again. I did this where I had switch in hand and depressed button and lightly sprayed a little at a time into the body passing plunger and shaking it and repeating. Seemed to remove some gunk. Then putting little dabs on my finger kept mashing the small amounts into body of switch. Reinstalled switch and it worked nicely. I was looking for a longer fix and ended up taking it apart and found that grease had made it to the contacts. FYI If you still have the other switch you are in a interesting area. You can take one of them apart and see if your a natural and can put it back together. I would encourage you to try. You just might find it easy.
After fixing and making that video I have not even had one glitch. Has it been two winters now that it has gone through? 🤔 anyway the original failed in a few months and replacement would have just been tossing money at a problem over and over. I wanted a fix and this seems to have done the job for me beyond my expectations.
I had my 1050 5 week had this to do and they after 4 to 5 week got me one come this is bad that need to fix this switches and fan stop work now this is 5 week old looking bad
I have no idea. We would be fired where I used to work if we ever used it. We worked in customer locations and WD40 is flammable. I have to say I would not try it around anything I was cooking my food on.
Hey Paul, thx for asking. It's still working fine. Never had to anything too the switches since I did that video. A few weeks ago I did a 3 ribs cook and no problems.
nice. I think I found a little project for myself. I also saw the other video where it said we might not even have to take it apart anymore and can just spray some contact cleaner on them. did you get to experiment with that?
@@paulthammaracksa2756 , no I did not. After packing the switches with Dielectric Grease the switches did not fail for me to test the spray only idea. If you have spray make sure it is non-flammable type.
Wanted to clarify to my recent reply. I misspoke when I told you my fan was not working on my 1050. The problem I had was I wasn't hearing the audible beep when closing the grill lid and did not get a temperature reading on the controller display unless I slammed the lid. Thats when I cleaned the switch with the mass air flow sensor cleaner I had on my shelf. It has been working great since. I have the first manifold cover without the lip and wanted to know if the lip helps with flare-ups? Also are you having any problems with the digital display on your controller? My grill will not power up sometimes when pushing the power button! Please let me know.
Sounds to what I was having. I really hadn't paid attention to switches and sounds till it wasn't working. I may or may not have heard the beeping when hood was used. I did see the OPEN message when hood was down. That got me started. You did a better response than I. I just made the switch move a bunch of times and it started working for a while. You using the spray was a stronger attack for your first response, I like that. So your slamming the lid was more in my softer approach. As for the lip on the cover hood for the manifold, didn't know one was made without lip other than the MB one that came with 1050, if I read that correctly. I am not able to answer your question based on my usage. Have not had flairup yet. The deck I am cooking on is under some upgrades right now and I am being careful to not cook as I did in my backyard. So I am cooking a lot on the second shelf and using catch trays under my cooks. I am releasing my 2nd cleaning video soon without water or chemicals much because of the same reasons. Don't want greasy dirt all over the new trex. ;) As for the controller. Just now when firing up the grill I had to push the red button a few times, slowly, fast, for a longer time before it came on. This has happened a few times and had got me thinking. I have had experience with computers and other low voltage smart things that get twiggy when left plugged in all the time. That has popped up in my noodle a few times but I could not be bothered once I got it started. It was only 45 minutes ago that it happened again. So what popped into my mind this time was I was going to unplug it after this cook and reconnect it only for the next cook. Because it connects bluetooth and wifi I am really thinking the problem is internal and that the little onboard chip is getting locked into one of these communications with a strong handshake and won't let go and when I try and turn it on, it in reality is already on, just not cleared. So starting now unplugging will be part of my shutdown and I'll see how that works for me. Now I have really no clue what the heck is happening with mine, let alone others, but based on my many years of trouble shooting this is where I am at. If this turns out to true then maybe this kind of thought is inside masterbuilt company and they can fix the next unit by software or hardware by doing a internal disconnect or OPEN to let go of signal and let unit go to sleep ready for us the next time. I am updating my patio electrical 120v connection with a bluetooth master to turn on power to bluetooth sound system, voltage for bbq, and lighting with control dimmer so turning off bbq to maybe fix this controller problem will all be behind me then. I'll try and report this kind of thing in one of my future videos in a passing statement on if this works. Great question, best I have had just recently and timely in that it's right where I am. I am not a "Fixer" I just play one on youtube.... 🤪🖐👀 but posting it here opens it up for others to share and maybe someone really knows if this is close or just b.s. Till then, trial and error and just pure luck just might make things better for us all.....
also, if you would like to watch a video I did but did not post public for me testing and exploring for information for reliability on those switches. Did you go to the end of the video and see my video suggestions? One of them in my switch videos will say OUT TAKES, and if you click on that you will be taken into my private video area and can watch me trying to make good decisions on weather or not to post those switch repair suggestions.. Shameless plug to watch another of my videos.... 🥱👍
Len Zeglin I had the same problem as you. Thanks for this video. I took my switch apart and was able to clean it and put the dielectric grease in. It seems to be working fine now.
@@rumrun11 Len, thank you for sharing that you had good success in this rebuild. Since I have used the Dielectric Grease I have not had any switch issues still. So it's still doing it's job here and maybe others here will be encouraged by your reply/update that it's working for you. I would like to see this issue taken care of for everyone, once and for all. Thanks again for conformation post on this topic.
I've been having this problem all winter and usually find out when I check the temp and it's dropped to 80°. Why the app doesn't display 'open' warnings or error codes I don't know....seems like amateur development work. Can I bypass (i.e. cut out the lid sensor and close the circuit) and call it a day? I currently have a piece of metal shimmed around the sensor and it's working but I'd like to make it official. TY
Mr D, 1st I am not a expert in all this. I am just a guy who uses past understandings of how some of all this works. That said, I have watched and read where some have done what you just asked. Myself I would not. Mostly because I like what that hood switch actually does. Its a feature I like and have used. If you never plan on cooking with the hood open for more than 2 to 4 minutes I think you will be fine. This is why I went and tried to FIX the problem and be done with it. If you can do basic repairs you should be able to do this yourself. Do you know what that switch does? If you open the hood and leave it open like for cooking burgers or dogs etc the grill will try and hold your temperature without the temps running away. As I did read the owners manual they talk a bit about that. It was not real clear to me so I had to read it a few times till it sank in. I think it will do this for temperatures under 500° . I plan on adding a rotisserie to my grill and the hood could be open for extended times so the switch for the hood will be important. You could buy a new switch and install that, but it will put you into a cycle of doing that. The Dielectric Grease will put an end to replacing and give you piece of mind that it will not fail in the middle of a future cook. Email me at mxp90dl@gmail.com if you have more questions.
I had cleaned and put the dialectic grease in the original plunger switch and it did work for a while. Eventually it became gummed up and stopped working again. I had enough, and replaced both plunger switches. Works great now with the manual switches. No more surprise shutdowns.
UPDATE:
It has been over a year with this one repair and the switches have been working as new everything since. Also, Dielectric grease is not a conductive material in its self. But it will not stop electricity from passing between contacts when they touch. So this Dielectric grease acts more like an overall dirt blocking barrier to help the inside of the switch stay cleaner longer.
Agreed. I've already replaced all three of my switches. That black carbon build up that you get in your hopper also builds up on those switches. I sanded the carbon deposits down until it didn't stick anymore. They aren't very good switches. In a pinch, you can take the wires off the back of the switch and use electrical tape to tape the connectors together to close the loop and you can continue your cook until you fix or replace the switch.
This has been my only headache with this cooker. I wish Masterbuilt would have recessed the switch plunger below the surface and had a contact built into the doors that went through a hole to depress the plunger. That would have easily protected the switch from the grease and carbon build up that causes these things to fail.
This video into the ‘weeds’ of micro switch maintenance was PERFECT! Definitely a tedious but very effective solution vs throwing them all out and waiting for MB to process an order. THANK YOU!!😎
Fantastic video!
Great information!
A buddy of mine forwarded me your video...
I bypassed all 3 switches, drilled 3 toggles installed next to the CPU....
In the face of my 1050...
Now I control the the continuity!😁
Also.... watch the fan....occasionally you'll have a piece of charcoal lodge into the blades.
You'll turn your unit on and no fan...switches will work etc...but no fan!
Easy fix too...removing the fan is VERY easy...
Thank you for this video again!
Good video. My bottom door switch trips after the unit runs for about half hour. The door appears to be warping slightly as it heats up reducing pressure in the bottom corner where the switch is. . The switch needs to be pushed in about 1/16 of an inch more to make contact. Starting doing this after my first cook.
I feel like the switch on the lid bugs me anyway, I don't want my temp regulated when barbecuing with the door open, I like to bbq. Thanks for the video the button on my switch under the lid completely broke and I couldn't get the temp above 500 and now I know why. I am now going to remove the switch and connect the wires underneath bypassing the safety feature!
Brandon, mine only goes up to 500 and will not go above. Did you get an OPEN message. I did not. 4th time I cooked on it. Pretty sad for an 800+ dollar pit...
Man! I having this exact problem now!
It's an easy fix. Hope my 3 videos help. ;)
At ~6:20 you mention that dielectric grease passes current. I want to clarify that dielectric grease is an insulator. Care should be taken to prevent it from getting on the contact surface. Many dielectric grease brands are food safe, so that would be something to look for for those who are worried about food contamination.
Nicely Done!
Hope you saw the electrical spray.
You continuously recommend NOT taking the switch apart. Is there a way to clean out the grease/smoke from inside without taking it apart? Looks like there is a small hole on the side of the switch.
Mine allows the fan to operate correctly. It's just the display that isn't correct. The app on my phone is able to show the correct temperature. Thanks for figuring out the problem. I was thinking it was the PID controller.
How do I specifically access and replace the cook chamber door switch?
Buy directly on Amazon
I found the similar issue today, mine was blocked inside, i just connected directly till I find a better replacement. Inside the switch is nothing wrong, except for the enclosure, is somehow squeezeda and this is blocking for the button to go outside/inside, blocking the movement.
Masterbuilt needs to make a replaceable silicon boot to cover the top.
It would be so easy for them to do. Till then I hope my Dielectric Grease will do the same job. Go MasterBuilt
But then they wouldn’t make money on the sale of replacement switches.😀
Funny you say that. I’m on my second replacement. I haven’t modded the original or my 1st replacement, but I have them. Just bought some dielectric grease to do the mod cause I know the replacement 2 will fail as well.
It sounds like the easy solution from the manufacture is to simply have some silicon or rubber nipple to go over the switch externally to seal it. This would prevent anything getting in there period.
Could very well be. Those decisions are boardroom members only kind of thing. I gave it my best shot and its working fine now. Do you own one of these grills?
@@MXP90DL Yea the 1050.
I think the issue is that with the amount of movement in this switch a cover for it would not last long, too much ware.
Not sure why they could not have just used a normal momentary vandal proof switch that would have been sealed and thus liquid and dust would not be an issue. It would not stick up as far but nothing that a little part on the switch or on the doors etc could not resolve.
My plan is to wire bypass switches so I can override the signal to closed if and when needed. I still like the safety of the automatic switches and control so if they ever break I will try to clean them out and or replace them.
@@zeroibis magnetic reed switch would do nicely. Completely sealed and it would be done. I wanted to do my grease idea first and if it was not successful, then I would have gone this route
@@EdMargaretKettwig Oh, that is a great idea!
@@EdMargaretKettwig Oh man, I think we found the answer: www.grisk.com/images/product_pdfs/roller/rb_roller_ball.pdf
Or this might be a better direct replacement. Same action as the current switches except it is now a reed switch and sealed: www.grisk.com/images/product_pdfs/roller/ts20_tamper_plunger.pdf
I wonder how much Dielectric grease is exposed on the plungers after this. There have been times when moving a hefty turkey in the smoker I would accidentally graze the plunger. Not sure how safe/unsafe that type of grease is on food. I am having the same problem though. I wonder if it would have been better if they put the plunger on the lid and not the grill.
Good question. You got me to remove the rain cover and look at switch. It is dry, the plunger does not show anything from this repair. Maybe after putting it all back together It had grease all over it. But now with dust, smoke and just the air it is looking normal. Have you watched my out take on this repair where I share more details? If your interested you will see tests I did and more about the grease.
ua-cam.com/video/pZTsB6zW4AY/v-deo.html
@@MXP90DL well done sir. Many thanks for your diligence.
Do you think the wiring will melt near the hooper and under the control panel over time? And do you have any ideas on how to prevent it from happening with a mod/fix?
Do I think the wiring will melt? No. I have given a think or two at times and have touched a few things to see. The fan for example, I figured it got hot during a cook and was thinking about a backup in case it burnt out. Like a little kid I touched it expecting I would get burnt and nope, it was actually cool. When I examined all the switches I fixed I did not see them running hot. The few wires that are near hot surfaces have a shielding over them and even those are not getting cooked. Our ovens in our houses, and some are self cleaning with high heat must have 6 times the wires as these grills and last a lifetime. I think we are safe and will never see a problem. But hey, sometimes Stuff Happens but these would be real easy fixes I think. Unplugging the power from the controller while its still on Will likely kill the electronics faster. Good question and I can see why you would ask in the way that MB just has many of them hanging loose everywhere.
So I just ordered two spare switches. My theory is I don’t want to pull them out until I need it. But I don’t want to get caught in a situation without a plan. So order new ones and maybe operate on those now and and when the ones in place go out I can just pop them in or maybe I’ll replace them earlier and have the originals as backups
Marc, its good to have a backup plan. My switches failed or to correctly state it became intermittent after about 10 to 14 cooks. I read where a few others also reported that. I think it has a lot to do with how grill was being used. I am sure others got a lot more cooks and maybe some have not seen any issues yet.
So when I went to order replacements they were all on backorder. This is where my journey began and I wanted a cure.
Your plan sounds good. If you one day are holding a bad switch. Take it apart very slowly infront of your video camera taking special notice on the switch contacts and their placement with each other as to witch side the contacts touch each other. You DO want to reinstall them in this exact manner to work correctly.
I have found that I have not had one hiccup with my switches since. Many many cooks and high temp cleanouts have been performed and switches are not showing any flaws. My plan to correct the problem for me has worked well. I am now going into my first winter where it is outside and gets some rain and I will see if it holds up for all that.
For me, worse case is that one year it holds up. Best case Is I never have another problem. In any case, the repair is so easy it will no longer matter for me and I do not have backup switches yet.
Hey, I like your plan and it looks like your grill will continue to give you many many great cooks.
G ary
@@MXP90DL thanks for that detail and great advice!!!!💪🏾
@@marclemar let me know if you have problems down the road. I'll not leave you on your own.
Cheers
G ary
Had anyone just replaced the sensor switch with a toggle switch? Since the switches are often out of stock.
I actually did!
I did it about a month ago with a low voltage rocker switch.
I had cleaned and put the dialectic grease in the original plunger switch and it did work for a while. Eventually it became gummed up and stopped working again.
I had enough, and replaced both plunger switches.
Works great now with the manual switches. No more surprise shutdowns.
So if I don't want to take the switch apart, can I still clean it and/or get grease inside it? I've already had to replace one switch, and I'd love to do something to preserve them for the future.
I think so. Maybe it will not work as long, but rather well enough to work well till it starts to show signs of needing washing again. I did this where I had switch in hand and depressed button and lightly sprayed a little at a time into the body passing plunger and shaking it and repeating. Seemed to remove some gunk. Then putting little dabs on my finger kept mashing the small amounts into body of switch. Reinstalled switch and it worked nicely. I was looking for a longer fix and ended up taking it apart and found that grease had made it to the contacts. FYI
If you still have the other switch you are in a interesting area. You can take one of them apart and see if your a natural and can put it back together. I would encourage you to try. You just might find it easy.
@@MXP90DL Great. Thanks.
Nice repair
Did the dielectric grease stuff worked great
After fixing and making that video I have not even had one glitch. Has it been two winters now that it has gone through? 🤔 anyway the original failed in a few months and replacement would have just been tossing money at a problem over and over. I wanted a fix and this seems to have done the job for me beyond my expectations.
Abby update on this? Has it still lasted?
I had my 1050 5 week had this to do and they after 4 to 5 week got me one come this is bad that need to fix this switches and fan stop work now this is 5 week old looking bad
Will WD40 work if I spray it into the switch
I have no idea. We would be fired where I used to work if we ever used it. We worked in customer locations and WD40 is flammable. I have to say I would not try it around anything I was cooking my food on.
just curious as to how long this fix worked for you?
Hey Paul, thx for asking. It's still working fine. Never had to anything too the switches since I did that video. A few weeks ago I did a 3 ribs cook and no problems.
nice. I think I found a little project for myself. I also saw the other video where it said we might not even have to take it apart anymore and can just spray some contact cleaner on them. did you get to experiment with that?
@@paulthammaracksa2756 , no I did not. After packing the switches with Dielectric Grease the switches did not fail for me to test the spray only idea. If you have spray make sure it is non-flammable type.
Giving this a shot tomorrow. Super inopportune time for mine to quit 2 days before Thanksgiving I tell ya
@@ZeroHour064 update, it's still working 2 years later and never had to touch those switches again.
Wanted to clarify to my recent reply. I misspoke when I told you my fan was not working on my 1050. The problem I had was I wasn't hearing the audible beep when closing the grill lid and did not get a temperature reading on the controller display unless I slammed the lid. Thats when I cleaned the switch with the mass air flow sensor cleaner I had on my shelf. It has been working great since. I have the first manifold cover without the lip and wanted to know if the lip helps with flare-ups? Also are you having any problems with the digital display on your controller? My grill will not power up sometimes when pushing the power button! Please let me know.
Sounds to what I was having. I really hadn't paid attention to switches and sounds till it wasn't working. I may or may not have heard the beeping when hood was used. I did see the OPEN message when hood was down. That got me started. You did a better response than I. I just made the switch move a bunch of times and it started working for a while. You using the spray was a stronger attack for your first response, I like that. So your slamming the lid was more in my softer approach.
As for the lip on the cover hood for the manifold, didn't know one was made without lip other than the MB one that came with 1050, if I read that correctly. I am not able to answer your question based on my usage. Have not had flairup yet. The deck I am cooking on is under some upgrades right now and I am being careful to not cook as I did in my backyard. So I am cooking a lot on the second shelf and using catch trays under my cooks. I am releasing my 2nd cleaning video soon without water or chemicals much because of the same reasons. Don't want greasy dirt all over the new trex. ;)
As for the controller. Just now when firing up the grill I had to push the red button a few times, slowly, fast, for a longer time before it came on. This has happened a few times and had got me thinking. I have had experience with computers and other low voltage smart things that get twiggy when left plugged in all the time. That has popped up in my noodle a few times but I could not be bothered once I got it started. It was only 45 minutes ago that it happened again. So what popped into my mind this time was I was going to unplug it after this cook and reconnect it only for the next cook. Because it connects bluetooth and wifi I am really thinking the problem is internal and that the little onboard chip is getting locked into one of these communications with a strong handshake and won't let go and when I try and turn it on, it in reality is already on, just not cleared. So starting now unplugging will be part of my shutdown and I'll see how that works for me.
Now I have really no clue what the heck is happening with mine, let alone others, but based on my many years of trouble shooting this is where I am at. If this turns out to true then maybe this kind of thought is inside masterbuilt company and they can fix the next unit by software or hardware by doing a internal disconnect or OPEN to let go of signal and let unit go to sleep ready for us the next time.
I am updating my patio electrical 120v connection with a bluetooth master to turn on power to bluetooth sound system, voltage for bbq, and lighting with control dimmer so turning off bbq to maybe fix this controller problem will all be behind me then. I'll try and report this kind of thing in one of my future videos in a passing statement on if this works.
Great question, best I have had just recently and timely in that it's right where I am. I am not a "Fixer" I just play one on youtube.... 🤪🖐👀 but posting it here opens it up for others to share and maybe someone really knows if this is close or just b.s. Till then, trial and error and just pure luck just might make things better for us all.....
also, if you would like to watch a video I did but did not post public for me testing and exploring for information for reliability on those switches. Did you go to the end of the video and see my video suggestions? One of them in my switch videos will say OUT TAKES, and if you click on that you will be taken into my private video area and can watch me trying to make good decisions on weather or not to post those switch repair suggestions..
Shameless plug to watch another of my videos.... 🥱👍
Len Zeglin I had the same problem as you.
Thanks for this video. I took my switch apart and was able to clean it and put the dielectric grease in. It seems to be working fine now.
@@rumrun11 Len, thank you for sharing that you had good success in this rebuild. Since I have used the Dielectric Grease I have not had any switch issues still. So it's still doing it's job here and maybe others here will be encouraged by your reply/update that it's working for you. I would like to see this issue taken care of for everyone, once and for all.
Thanks again for conformation post on this topic.
I've been having this problem all winter and usually find out when I check the temp and it's dropped to 80°. Why the app doesn't display 'open' warnings or error codes I don't know....seems like amateur development work. Can I bypass (i.e. cut out the lid sensor and close the circuit) and call it a day? I currently have a piece of metal shimmed around the sensor and it's working but I'd like to make it official. TY
Mr D, 1st I am not a expert in all this. I am just a guy who uses past understandings of how some of all this works. That said, I have watched and read where some have done what you just asked. Myself I would not. Mostly because I like what that hood switch actually does. Its a feature I like and have used. If you never plan on cooking with the hood open for more than 2 to 4 minutes I think you will be fine.
This is why I went and tried to FIX the problem and be done with it. If you can do basic repairs you should be able to do this yourself.
Do you know what that switch does? If you open the hood and leave it open like for cooking burgers or dogs etc the grill will try and hold your temperature without the temps running away. As I did read the owners manual they talk a bit about that. It was not real clear to me so I had to read it a few times till it sank in. I think it will do this for temperatures under 500° .
I plan on adding a rotisserie to my grill and the hood could be open for extended times so the switch for the hood will be important.
You could buy a new switch and install that, but it will put you into a cycle of doing that. The Dielectric Grease will put an end to replacing and give you piece of mind that it will not fail in the middle of a future cook. Email me at mxp90dl@gmail.com if you have more questions.
I had cleaned and put the dialectic grease in the original plunger switch and it did work for a while. Eventually it became gummed up and stopped working again.
I had enough, and replaced both plunger switches.
Works great now with the manual switches. No more surprise shutdowns.