05-15 Tacoma U Joint Replacement
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- Опубліковано 3 січ 2022
- I was running into some vibrations when the engine was under load. The vibrations were not present when my foot was off the gas. Went underneath the truck to inspect the U joints and they were indeed the culprit!
Spicer U Joints: tinyurl.com/54p385ax
(06 Tacoma PreRunner V6 2WD)
Toyota Seal: 90311A0031
Seal Puller: tinyurl.com/2p96kymh
U Joint Press: tinyurl.com/7uhhy5mx
Torque Specs
Driveshaft to Rear Diff: 65 ft.*lbf
Center Support Bearing Bracket: 27 ft.*lbf
Current FRS Setup
Verus Engineering UCW Rear Wing
Verus Engineering Composite Front Splitter
Verus Engineering Air Dam
FT86SpeedFactory UEL Header
Verus Engineering Hood Louvers
Perrin Oil Cooler
Stoptech C43 Big Brake Kit
Hawk HP+ Pads
Verus Engineering Brake Cooling Kit
Apex EC-7R 17x9 +35mm
Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R 245/40/17
Rays Gram Lights 57CR Ceramic White Pearl 17x9 +38
Falken Azenis FK510 245/40/17
Remark R1 Spec Titanium Catback Exhaust
Tomei Front Pipe
Motiv Overpipe
Recaro Profi SPG
Buddy Club Super Low Down Seat Rails
Helix Depo K Shade Tail Lights
17+ Instrument Cluster w/ Digital Display
Gerald Just Projects Cluster Retrofit Kit: tinyurl.com/2p8d6uva
Instagram: / v
I have found a little "trick" to make your life easier when reinstalling a complete driveline that has a carrier bearing. After you insert the front slip yoke into the trans, put the two bolts into the carrier bearing but DO NOT torque them all the way down. Just run them up enough to hold the carrier bearing up. Then reattach the rear yoke flange at the rear differential, & go ahead & torque those 4 bolts to spec. Then come back to the carrier bearing & torque those two bolts to spec.
I do it this way because I found that if I tighten down the carrier bearing bolts first, sometimes the flange yoke at the rear doesn't reach the flange on the differential. There is a gap between the flanges & no amount of pulling & swearing will make them come together. Leaving the carrier bearing bolts a little loose allows those bolts to move in the slots on the carrier bearing, & the front spline slip yoke to move.
Also, when removing the driveshaft, it's best to just loosen the two carrier bearing bolts FIRST. Then when you take the 4 bolts out of the rear flange, there is no need to pound it with a hammer or use a prybar to get it free. Just grab the driveshaft & pull it forward towards the front of the vehicle, & it comes right off.
The pacing of your videos is perfect. You don't blather on too much and you say everything that's important. I really found your video super helpful and I'll be replacing my universal joint today. Thanks!
Perfect! Simple, clear, and exactly what I was looking for to help me change my bad u-joint with some confidence. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Great tutorial. Concise and straightforward.
Very nice! Well worth watching.
Great video and explanation
Thanks exactly the information needed nothing more nothing less Great Video!
Good Stuff Kev!
Well done! Thank you.
I snapped my trans yolk so I have to replace that and I need to swap the u joint. Just hit 200k. But it was fairly rusted in that specific spot. Can’t wait to get under there and get frustrated
Great video!!! Thanks 👍
perfect. thanks for posting. everything on a tacoma is either 8mm or 14 mm
Thanks for sharing! Great info! At 4:15, what is the proper name of that seal?
Men this Texas weather got wishing I can do this indoors 😭right now
I feel your pain!
Thank you for this video! Did you refill trans fluid at all after due to small loss of fluid dueing disconnect?
Do you need to top off the transmission fluid once you get everything put back together?
Awesome!
Thanks!
Thanks bro
Hey brother, quick question abt the NEW U joint you put in … I notice how in the description link you said it was for a 06 Tacoma 2wd … would it matter if it was a 4wd ? Our are the U joint just universal?? … because I don’t want to buy the wrong U joint and have to do the job twice because the parts are wrong lol … plse lmk … I’m in process of getting new U joints … and btw the vid was super helpfull .. !! thank you 🙏🏼
Im chaging the rear leaky transmission seal where they meet up front. I unscrewed the 2 retainer nuts in back. Do i need to unbolt the rear side of the drove shaft before sliding it out. Sorry for the confusion. Thnk u.
Are these the same parts for a 2017 tacoma 4x4
Did you have any oil come out by the pinion seal?
Do you I need to buy the Non-Greaseable or Greaseable Spicer 5-1330X U-Joint Kit 1330/SPL25 Series (OSR)
When's the video where you do FI on the tacoma? Or go bigger...engine swap?
I need to keep that truck as reliable as possible so it can haul my FRS to the track! haha
Do you need to have the vehicle on a lift or will jacks stands suffice?
You can do it on jack stands it'll just be tight.
Ive never done it like this never have i needed that green c clamp tool.
whut u use then?
Nice video. Do you recall how long this took you? Maybe an hour or so?
It certainly took longer than 1 hour. Since I was filming it took a lot longer. Without the filming I'd say this could probably be done in 2-3 hours.
Ive change a transfer case in 45 mins on the side of the road in the rain !
@@squelch6573 nice man
@@KevinVo oh my!, no wonder the dealer in Sioux City wants very close or over 400$ with parts to do this task
Did you replaced with original parts?
They were not OEM parts, but they're made by Spicer.
Is this the same for 4x4?
I cannot get the cup out with pliers😢
Did it fix your noise/vibration?
Yes, completely gone now.
@@KevinVo awesome. Might try this with my 06 Sequoia. I use it to tow the BRZ to the track and have some weird driveline noise
Do i need to grease the yoke that slide into the transmission?
Nope
Does anyone know the part # for a Spicer U-Joint that is greasable for a 2013 Toyota Tacoma 4 door v6 4x4? Looks like the one showed is for non greasable and for 2wd only.
I just replaced mine on my 2013 tacoma i purchased Part# Spicer 5-1330-1X from Oreilly Auto Parts. Make sure to double check it before you leave the store they have similiar part numbers make sure you check for the grease fitting.
Yo do you need to put grease or atf before the seal and after ?
Most U joints come pre-greased.
@@KevinVo right right but talking about the seal for the trans bro
@@tr4ilblazin ooh my apologies, the OEM seal comes pre-greased.
@@KevinVo kk what bout the spline ? I’m just asking because bout to do this soon man
@@tr4ilblazin spline does not need to be greased.
Your drive shaft is actually supposed to be able to rotate just a little bit. The actual way to check for a bad u-joint is to shake it up and down and side to side.
The whole driveshaft can rotate a bit due to the gear backlash, but there should not be much movement at all where the U joints are like I showed in the video. It's pretty clear to see that the driveshaft had significant play even though the slip yoke was not rotating.
@@KevinVo I commented because the average person is going to grab their driveshaft and think the u-joints are bad because there's some rotation which is supposed to be there. Dat's all🫡
Hello! i have a question but first,,, do you have to grease a new u joint ir do they come ore lubed? I got a duralast,,,,,2008 Tacoma sport 264k miles shuddering and vibrating under seat whenever i hit 2k rpm or hard acceleration but only does this towards the end of a gear or higher rpm,, not at all at low rpm or from a start,,, i was sure it was my front ujoint as i saw the bearing dust stripe on my undercarriage but the shop said no they think its transmission. Ive read alot that a flush fixed this problem and u joints. Do you think i should change it out and this might work and if so do i HAVE to change filter? or does his sound like ujoint? One day i did hear i tiny squeak from ubder the truck when i accelerated further making me think its a u joint. BUT i got the truck at 100k miles and is now 264k and ive NEVER changed the fluid yet (i know dont hate me),, any suggestions? Great channel btw, open to anyone who wants to help thanks!
Since no one has responded to this yet I thought I'd try to help you out. Nearly all new u-joints come pre-greased, however I think it's wise to get a grease gun & lube them once you install them. I personally do not trust that the "pre-grease" is enough, or is of good quality, & I'd rather be sure that they are fully greased by doing it myself. Be sure you use a good quality bearing grease, like Lucas Super Sticky Red or any other quality "name brand" bearing grease.
The shuddering & vibrating under your seat is probably either the front u-joint or the carrier bearing. The carrier bearing is the larger round thing in the middle of the driveshaft, & they are known for having the rubber in them breakdown between 80k to 120k miles. It's easy to check this. Just crawl under the truck & grab the driveshaft on either side of the bearing & try to move it from side to side. If the bearing is good it shouldn't move much, if at all. Also look at the rubber part of it for holes or tears. You see any of those it needs replacing.
164K miles is a LOT to ask an automatic transmission filter to deal with, especially if you don't know if it's been changed out before or not. YES, you should change it out ASAP & refill the trans with fresh quality fluid (Dexron 2 or Dexron 3 type, be sure you check the label on the bottle when buying.) The only time I've ever found a automatic transmission flush to be of any use is when I get a vehicle where the trans fluid is at least medium brown in color. That tells me that there could be some deposits in there that might come loose with a flush. But generally, I find that as long as the trans is till shifting correctly, Just draining the oil fluid, changing the filter & refilling with fresh fluid works just fine.
Tips for changing auto trans fluid & filter in the 2008 Tacoma:
1 There is a drain plug bolt in the pan. It's going to need a new gasket to prevent leaks. DO NOT REUSE THE OLD DRAIN PLUG GASKET. It is a metal crush-washer type & is only intended for a single use. Toyota Part # 35178-30010.
Torque spec for the drain plug is 21 ft/lbs. Do NOT exceed this as you could damage or strip the threads in the pan, & then have to buy a new pan ($100+ dealer part!). If you don't have a torque wrench, just run the drain plug in & tighten with your fingers only until you can't turn it any more, then use a wrench or socket wrench & give it a 1/4 of a turn. Check back on it later after a test drive for leak & snug it up a bit if it leaks.
2. Be sure to totally clean the gasket surfaces on both the trans & the pan for a good seal. Many trans filters come as a kit with a new pan gasket so you don't have to buy the gasket separately.
3. There should be a magnet on the inside of the pan. When you have the pan off, check the magnet for any metal particles. A little bit is normal for the mileage you have. Clean any of this off & totally clean the inside of the pan with parts cleaner or spray brake cleaner, & allow to completely air-dry before reinstalling.
4. Pan Bolt torque spec is 39 INCH pounds, NOT foot pounds. This translates to 3.25 foot pounds. From many years of wrenching I know that this can be easily exceeded using a socket wrench, so take it way easy when putting these bolts back in. I recommend just running them in with just finger pressure, until they stop on their own, & then giving them a little more "turn" to snug them up, like 1/8 of a turn.
Again, if you over do this you can strip out the threads in the bottom of the engine block, or warp the pan to the point where it won't seal.
Hope this helps.
@@The13thSword yep.
Did you buy those girlie earrings where you bought your U-Joints? Asking for a friend!
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