Thanks! I used two Milwaukee M18's impact wrenches. One's a high torque and the other is a mid torque low profile. I provided a Amazon link in the description area of this video.
U made dat look so easy i like the way u explain it so very well n easy. Out of all these so call handy man mechanic u was da best from start 2 finish. Good job 😊
I'm convinced, sending mine to the shop tomorrow. Good job but I bet my hub assembly will need lots of heat and a big hammer to remove. I'll spare myself the aggravation and pay a few hundred bucks.
Not trying to be a smart guy, Q: Why did you remove the CV and strut? I've done dozens and that was not required. Also, I recommend to NOT fully remove the 4 bolts for the hub assy, but loosen them out about a 1/4" or so and use a hammer to hit the bolt heads, thus pushing the hub assy out.
Thanks for sharing! I removed outer part of the CV to allow shade tree mechanics/viewers (who don't have a lift, limited tools as well as power tools) easier access to the hub bolts with the axle being out of the way. So yes, you can remove the hub without removing the axle using swivel sockets and high torque power tools.
Get to around 40 mph then steer / lane change to the right which will apply stress to the left front bearing; steering to the left to apply stress to the right. The side that makes noise is the side that needs replacement.
Forgive the stupid question, but what was the reason you put it in neutral when tightening down the axle bolt ? I get the reason for the pry bar but what happens by leaving it in park and doing that ?
Your rotors are probably rust stuck the the center wheel hub ring. Apply penetrating oil and use a block of wood between the rotor and hammer blows to shake it loose.
do wheel bearings make a consistent clunking noise when driving? Im aware of the houling sound it makes that sounds like rugged snow tires when driving but I also get clunking noise. I figured my issue is the wheel bearing because I jacked the front end up and wiggle the tires by grabbing the top and bottom and Its really lose. when grabbing the left and right side of tire there is no noise and nothing moves 🤷🏽♂️
@@hardlymovingpro left and right had minor play also I think I just didn't want the problem to be a wheel bearing problem but yea I ended up replacing both
I recently changed my RH front wheel bearing because of obvious rumbling and grinding noise. Wish I would have simply rotated the tires instead. This is my third and last Maxima. I don't about anyone else, but tire problems seem to be inherent with the Maxima
omg I just replaced both front wheel bearings on my Nissan altima. looked up the average time it takes to complete and everyone was like 2 or 3 hours...... well it took me 2 days 10 hours each day, never again! you can speed through removing the wheel, brake kit, abs sensor within 10 mins but the brake rotors and wheel bearings is where you will spend all day swinging a hammer(didn't have a sledge😭). also to make matters worse my jack that came with car tilt over and the car was on the ground, sofar it sounds like a car fresh off the lot. 🤞
@@hardlymovingpro well I actually didn't see a lot of rust. when I removed the wheel bearing I seen some white chalky stuff where the bearing had set I thought it could of been some glue to keep it in place...... so yea not a lot of rust but when I did remove the wheel bearings it was pitch black on the other side tho
Could a bad wheel hub be causing my car to shake when braking I changed the rotors 2 times and changed the tie rods and news brakes but it still shakes when I brake. Could it be the wheel hub or maybe something else can someone help?
Could be the lower control arm bushings that bolts to the chassis. When the bushings crack or wear out, the control arm moves when both accelerating and braking. If a bad hub or bearing, the wheels will vibrate all the time.
@@hardlymovingpro in my case at slow speeds there’s a growling noise coming from the passenger side, however I have no ABS light on. What could be the issue?
If the CV Axle does get stuck, take a trip over to Harbor Freight (not a sponsor) and get yourself a 5 ton hydraulic, 3 claw puller for about $80. Trust me, it's worth it!! Then buy a normal, manual 3 claw (gear) puller to hold the Axle in so you can get to the bolts in the back of the hub. If you do this, there won't be any need to take off the strut.
anti seize isnt lubricant because its intent is to cure on a not moving surface but be a substrate that prevents contact corrosion and is of minimal adhesion or cohesion. 💡
I don't think it doesn't really matter what the part number is. All you need to know is your car model and the year date of your vehicle. Some wheel bearing hub assemblies are quite compatible with models other than the Nissan Altima.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Saved myself $900. Did the passenger side a couple months ago and did the driver side today. Thank you so much.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Finally a good video on DIY without a life story during the process. Great great great video my man. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video! Helped a lot! I would suggest unbolting the ABS Sensor and removing it prior to removal of the hub assembly.
Glad it helped!
Great video as always! Glad to see you back. Removing the strut bolts is also my preferred method instead of messing with the lower ball joint.
Thanks! Totally agree. Disconnect the strut. Much easier than ball joints.
yeah great video...but I like to leave everything connected. you can actually do it without taking the strut loose.
THANK YOU FOR BEING STRAIGHT TO THE POINT
You bet!
Great video I’m replacing my wheel hub bearings on my 2012 maxima this video was very informative thanks
Glad it helped!
Another great instructional video ! Your the man ! Happy Father's Day. Blessings 🙏
I appreciate that!
Love the edit. Quick 6 min video instead of a half hour one. Exactly what kind of Milwaukee is that? I need that in my life.
Thanks! I used two Milwaukee M18's impact wrenches. One's a high torque and the other is a mid torque low profile. I provided a Amazon link in the description area of this video.
That strut looks new. That reminds me to replace my struts soon. I’m long overdue.
Yes they are. Watch the previous published video.
You are really good at your job. Thanks for sharing.
You bet!
I didn’t release the strut last time I did it! I knew there was an easier way! Thanks!
Live and learn ... and thanks for sharing!
I have never seen someone so brave with antiseize before!! Great job
Thanks!
U made dat look so easy i like the way u explain it so very well n easy. Out of all these so call handy man mechanic u was da best from start 2 finish. Good job 😊
Thanks and glad you liked it!
I'm convinced, sending mine to the shop tomorrow. Good job but I bet my hub assembly will need lots of heat and a big hammer to remove. I'll spare myself the aggravation and pay a few hundred bucks.
I hear ya if you live in the rust belt!
Very well done. I have a 2017 that needs a new hub assembly. Thank you for the content.
You bet!
@@hardlymovingpro I also need a brass drift punch.
Great video. Thanks. No need for brass on the old bearing.
Good for you!
Amazing and super informative video. Super clean, had all the information needed. Btw you have a vid on tie rods thanks
Thanks! Here's a tie rod replacement video on a Honda. Pretty much the same with Nissan: ua-cam.com/video/vFoUmH8ZqDE/v-deo.html
Awesome video!!! Thanks for posting.
Glad you enjoyed it!
EXCELLENT PRESENTATION!
Thank you
Glad you liked it!
GREAT VIDEO NOW I HAVE ALL THE KNOWLEDGE STEP BY STEP....TO DO MINES
Glad it helped!
That was a mean video. Thanks man
You bet!
Thank you so much. Great video and very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Not trying to be a smart guy, Q: Why did you remove the CV and strut? I've done dozens and that was not required. Also, I recommend to NOT fully remove the 4 bolts for the hub assy, but loosen them out about a 1/4" or so and use a hammer to hit the bolt heads, thus pushing the hub assy out.
Thanks for sharing! I removed outer part of the CV to allow shade tree mechanics/viewers (who don't have a lift, limited tools as well as power tools) easier access to the hub bolts with the axle being out of the way. So yes, you can remove the hub without removing the axle using swivel sockets and high torque power tools.
I like removing the stut and cv makes it eaiser tho I put the one bolt from the strut back on to hit the hub out with a hammer mine was seized
Going to save my self $230 doing it myself thanks a ton.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Great job. I wish you can change mine. Good video.
Thanks!
your a bad ass ! thanks for the awesome vid
You bet!
Saved me 500 bucks
Good for you!
Excellent video 👍 👍
Thanks!
Thank you sir, very helpful vid.
You are welcome!
Awesome video !!!!
Thanks!
How do you determine what one is making the noise? Wifes 16 maxima started making hub bearing noise!
Get to around 40 mph then steer / lane change to the right which will apply stress to the left front bearing; steering to the left to apply stress to the right. The side that makes noise is the side that needs replacement.
Dont these cars need alignment after since you remove the camber caster bolts from the strut?
There's no camber and caster adjustment ... only the toe. The strut bolts are not elliptical to allow camber changes.
@hardlymovingpro That's nice to know.
Thank you for the video!! My passenger side 32mm is stuck on and I don’t have power tools, any recommendations? Thank you
A long cheater bar. Keep the wheels on the ground before trying to break it loose.
Great video! Just finished mine. Just curious, did you use a new axle nut or use the same one?
Thanks! I reused the original axle nut.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Forgive the stupid question, but what was the reason you put it in neutral when tightening down the axle bolt ? I get the reason for the pry bar but what happens by leaving it in park and doing that ?
Good question. All that torque to tighten the axle nut can stress the transmission being in park. Not worth taking any chances.
Good job sharing
Thanks for visiting!
I'm about to change my hub tomorrow I was looking for a video to guide me
Let us know how it turns out!
@@hardlymovingpro Sure will
How did the rotor just come off I can't get it off
Your rotors are probably rust stuck the the center wheel hub ring. Apply penetrating oil and use a block of wood between the rotor and hammer blows to shake it loose.
Easy thank you ❤
You bet!
............................ Wow this was a GREAT FUCKING VIDEO.......................... Good Job Buddy, Thank You
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You bet!
do wheel bearings make a consistent clunking noise when driving? Im aware of the houling sound it makes that sounds like rugged snow tires when driving but I also get clunking noise.
I figured my issue is the wheel bearing because I jacked the front end up and wiggle the tires by grabbing the top and bottom and Its really lose. when grabbing the left and right side of tire there is no noise and nothing moves 🤷🏽♂️
Up and down movements most likely are ball joints. Clunking could still be bearings.
@@hardlymovingpro left and right had minor play also I think I just didn't want the problem to be a wheel bearing problem but yea I ended up replacing both
What is the hub bearing bolt size?
Sorry ... dont' recall.
I recently changed my RH front wheel bearing because of obvious rumbling and grinding noise. Wish I would have simply rotated the tires instead. This is my third and last Maxima. I don't about anyone else, but tire problems seem to be inherent with the Maxima
Tires can go out-of-round which causes vibration. Don't know about noise. Tire shops have machines to check for roundness
Where do you get the bearing/ hub assembly kit? Or do you have a part number?
Link to parts in the description area of this video.
omg I just replaced both front wheel bearings on my Nissan altima. looked up the average time it takes to complete and everyone was like 2 or 3 hours...... well it took me 2 days 10 hours each day, never again!
you can speed through removing the wheel, brake kit, abs sensor within 10 mins but the brake rotors and wheel bearings is where you will spend all day swinging a hammer(didn't have a sledge😭). also to make matters worse my jack that came with car tilt over and the car was on the ground, sofar it sounds like a car fresh off the lot. 🤞
Rust stuck parts I assume?
@@hardlymovingpro well I actually didn't see a lot of rust. when I removed the wheel bearing I seen some white chalky stuff where the bearing had set I thought it could of been some glue to keep it in place...... so yea not a lot of rust but when I did remove the wheel bearings it was pitch black on the other side tho
The white stuff is aluminum oxidation ... acts just like rust holding parts together.
Punch tool works on the rust stuck wheel bearing?
Wouldn't hurt trying.
Could a bad wheel hub be causing my car to shake when braking I changed the rotors 2 times and changed the tie rods and news brakes but it still shakes when I brake. Could it be the wheel hub or maybe something else can someone help?
Could be the lower control arm bushings that bolts to the chassis. When the bushings crack or wear out, the control arm moves when both accelerating and braking. If a bad hub or bearing, the wheels will vibrate all the time.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks man I appreciate the help
You bet!
Mine is stuck and won't come off. Any suggestions?
Can use a slide hammer attached to a hub adapter.
Do you have the part number for the hydraulic pump. I can’t find it I would like to purchase one
A link to the tool is provided in the description area of this video.
How do you find out if you have a bad bearing?
noise and vibration.
@@hardlymovingpro in my case at slow speeds there’s a growling noise coming from the passenger side, however I have no ABS light on. What could be the issue?
@@irfaanhameed could be bearing or cv axle
If the CV Axle does get stuck, take a trip over to Harbor Freight (not a sponsor) and get yourself a 5 ton hydraulic, 3 claw puller for about $80. Trust me, it's worth it!! Then buy a normal, manual 3 claw (gear) puller to hold the Axle in so you can get to the bolts in the back of the hub. If you do this, there won't be any need to take off the strut.
Thanks for sharing! That's one way of doing it or you can do it another way in this video: ua-cam.com/video/TQswcF5VUSc/v-deo.htmlsi=rN6LJfk5wXB6yIMW
Aren’t you supposed to put wheel bearing grease?
Hub and bearing assembly comes pre-greased from the factory.
Anyone know the size of the 4 bolts holding the hub?? 2010 maxima
17 or 19 mm.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks apreciate it
anti seize isnt lubricant because its intent is to cure on a not moving surface but be a substrate that prevents contact corrosion and is of minimal adhesion or cohesion. 💡
Exactly! Which is why I use it on mounting/contact surfaces to prevent corrosion for future ease of parts replacement.
The four bolts holding the hub bearing are not 21 mm it's smaller
Can't recall. Probably 19 mm.
Answered my question without me asking! Thanks 🙏👍
So 19 mm for the four bolts holding the hub
Hub Bolt 180 foot pounds. Just incase anyone was looking for that spec!
Thank for sharing!
This hub i like to do. Same as the Subarus. I have those u need to press off..
Have fun!
Could you tell me hub bearing number?
Sorry ... don't have.
I don't think it doesn't really matter what the part number is. All you need to know is your car model and the year date of your vehicle. Some wheel bearing hub assemblies are quite compatible with models other than the Nissan Altima.
Guess what guys? There is no law that says I have to personally know any of you to love you so therefore I love ya! Byeeeee
Thanks for sharing!
If my female friends car needs this done I’m sending it out. Remember men it’ll be your fault if you mess it up
True for some people. Risk vs reward ratio.
Great video
Thanks!