These are good tips. Also if you're anticipating very cold temps, top up your oil today because it might not actually pour tomorrow morning. I learned to fly in South Dakota in the dead of winter and found when it's really extra cold (like -25F and below), you need to be on you guard for systems behaving abnormally. One morning I set my Piper Cherokee's trim to neutral for the before takeoff checklist, and during initial climb I was arm-wrestling the yoke to keep the pitch up. Turned out the little indicator on the ceiling had a significant lag to catch up to where I had actually set it, which was very nose-down. That same morning, I noticed during preflight that the crankcase breather hose was completely blocked by an icicle that had formed there, and a mechanic used a heat gun to melt it out.
😊 when I fly in winter. I allow 2.5 hours more for preheating the engine and use a small ceramic heater in the cockpit to warm up the instruments. All this prior to preflight.
Here in Wisconsin I wont even try to start my plane without several hours of preheat under 30 degrees. I have a Tannis preheater that heats the oil pan and engine block. What's great about these systems is it only requires an outlet and an extension cord which any FBO or hangar bum on the field will be able to help you out with. There are a few other things you can do: - You can have a custom engine/cowl cover made that will insulate the engine bay. They're basically sleeping bags that fully wrap around. - What TYPE of oil you use matters a lot. You wouldn't use a W100 oil in the winter, you would use something like a 20W50 that does better in variable temps. - There are some more aggressive things you can do if you really need to get going, like starting a small fire under the engine to heat it.. but you're getting into Alaska Bushplane git-er-dun territory.
Fantastic feedback, thank you very much JD. Preheating is such a mystery and it shouldn’t be. Midwesterners know better than anyone how to do it. Would love to learn more about it from the Midwest perspective🙏🙂. Thanks again!
Great video and for us up here in the great white (well not so white at the moment) north, definitely a topic we have to be familiar with if we wanna fly year round. Good points but one more I'll add is keeping the cabin warm, especially if you have traditional mechanical instruments. All those dissimilar metals in your instruments have the same issues of uneven contraction as they do in your engine. I run a small heater in my plane's cabin which also helps keep the battery a little warmer as well.
Turning the prop manually is not a myth. This from the Cessna 172S NAV III POH (version 172SPHBUS-00), under COLD WEATHER OPERATION: "Prior to starting on cold mornings, it is advisable to turn the propeller manually through several engine compression cycles by hand to loosen the oil, so the engine cranks (motors) more easily and uses less battery power. When the propeller is turned manually, turn it in the opposite direction to normal engine rotation for greater safety. Opposite rotation disengages the magneto impulse couplings and prevents possible unwanted ignition." I don't have an opinion on whether you should or shouldn't...just saying it's in the POH.
Another great video, Nate! Great lessons and reminders! Regarding priming, I’ve been told it’s important to give it a few extra seconds to let the gas vaporize into fumes and the vapor is actually what ignites during start.
Maybe a stupid question but our car engines start right up in the cold. Are we destroying them or is it just modern teck that these dinosaurs from the 60s we are flying have not implemented?
Pumping the throttle does the same thing as the primer, only less so. Fuel can run down into the airbox from the primer just as easily as from the accelerator pump. Had this guy with a flying club who thought the engine should be reprimed if it did not start within two or three blades. Using the primer, he flooded that thing and had three induction fires in it before somebody straightened his ass out.
These are good tips. Also if you're anticipating very cold temps, top up your oil today because it might not actually pour tomorrow morning. I learned to fly in South Dakota in the dead of winter and found when it's really extra cold (like -25F and below), you need to be on you guard for systems behaving abnormally. One morning I set my Piper Cherokee's trim to neutral for the before takeoff checklist, and during initial climb I was arm-wrestling the yoke to keep the pitch up. Turned out the little indicator on the ceiling had a significant lag to catch up to where I had actually set it, which was very nose-down. That same morning, I noticed during preflight that the crankcase breather hose was completely blocked by an icicle that had formed there, and a mechanic used a heat gun to melt it out.
That blocked crankcase breather hose would make it run so rough.
😊 when I fly in winter. I allow 2.5 hours more for preheating the engine and use a small ceramic heater in the cockpit to warm up the instruments. All this prior to preflight.
This is FANTASTIC!
THANK you for all the support! Would love to fly with you in 2024! 👊👊👊
Nathan, well done. Please keep it up! The visual demonstration of oil viscosity is wonderful!
Here in Wisconsin I wont even try to start my plane without several hours of preheat under 30 degrees. I have a Tannis preheater that heats the oil pan and engine block. What's great about these systems is it only requires an outlet and an extension cord which any FBO or hangar bum on the field will be able to help you out with.
There are a few other things you can do:
- You can have a custom engine/cowl cover made that will insulate the engine bay. They're basically sleeping bags that fully wrap around.
- What TYPE of oil you use matters a lot. You wouldn't use a W100 oil in the winter, you would use something like a 20W50 that does better in variable temps.
- There are some more aggressive things you can do if you really need to get going, like starting a small fire under the engine to heat it.. but you're getting into Alaska Bushplane git-er-dun territory.
Fantastic feedback, thank you very much JD. Preheating is such a mystery and it shouldn’t be. Midwesterners know better than anyone how to do it. Would love to learn more about it from the Midwest perspective🙏🙂. Thanks again!
Great information Nathan!
Very very much appreciated Dan! Happy New Year!
Great video and for us up here in the great white (well not so white at the moment) north, definitely a topic we have to be familiar with if we wanna fly year round. Good points but one more I'll add is keeping the cabin warm, especially if you have traditional mechanical instruments. All those dissimilar metals in your instruments have the same issues of uneven contraction as they do in your engine. I run a small heater in my plane's cabin which also helps keep the battery a little warmer as well.
Great video! Very topical, I’m an engine preheating advocate. Thanks for sharing!!
Excellent editing, well done!
Turning the prop manually is not a myth.
This from the Cessna 172S NAV III POH (version 172SPHBUS-00), under COLD WEATHER OPERATION:
"Prior to starting on cold mornings, it is advisable to turn the propeller
manually through several engine compression cycles by hand to loosen
the oil, so the engine cranks (motors) more easily and uses less battery
power. When the propeller is turned manually, turn it in the opposite
direction to normal engine rotation for greater safety. Opposite rotation
disengages the magneto impulse couplings and prevents possible
unwanted ignition."
I don't have an opinion on whether you should or shouldn't...just saying it's in the POH.
Another great video, Nate! Great lessons and reminders! Regarding priming, I’ve been told it’s important to give it a few extra seconds to let the gas vaporize into fumes and the vapor is actually what ignites during start.
Thanks for the support! Would love to see what WI winter flying actually looks like someday. (That’s me inviting myself to fly with you 😀)
@@NathanBallardSaferFlying Any time!
Excellent Nathan!
Mike Busch answers "no" to "does pulling the prop through help lubricate a cold engine?" here: ua-cam.com/video/pqyi8fj4ysQ/v-deo.html#t=64m30s
I learn something everytime I watch your videos, well done sir!
Thanks a bunch! Appreciate the MLP community, and especially the excellent excellent podcast!
👍✅👏 Good video Nathan!
Thank you very much for watching and the support 🙌
Very topical! Love how you showed the oil flow, really cool.
2:40 absolutely does not apply to Rotax, but all Rotax owners probably know this.
I know nothing so little about Rotax, looking forward to learning.
@@NathanBallardSaferFlying you're always welcome to fly in my egg when we find ourselves in the same town.
Great video as always!
Appreciate it! 2024, let’s fly! Happy New Year!
What about using synthetic oil for the engine.
Had no idea Jimmy Fallon would be teaching me how to start a cold engine
Hahah not the first time I have heard that 😅
Problems not issues. Issues are magazines and newspapers... TLDR, warm the engine up first in a heated hanger or block heater first.... you're welcome
Maybe a stupid question but our car engines start right up in the cold. Are we destroying them or is it just modern teck that these dinosaurs from the 60s we are flying have not implemented?
Good video
Appreciate it ✅✅✅
Pumping the throttle does the same thing as the primer, only less so. Fuel can run down into the airbox from the primer just as easily as from the accelerator pump. Had this guy with a flying club who thought the engine should be reprimed if it did not start within two or three blades. Using the primer, he flooded that thing and had three induction fires in it before somebody straightened his ass out.
Sorry for smartass comment... But the best advice would be to buy an airplane with modern engine. Something like DA40NG :-)
Why not an Ashless Synthetic oil to fix this conventional oil issue?