Alchemist Pump Action Blaster Assembly Guide
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 жов 2023
- Blaster files: github.com/Sillybutts/Alchemist
Sellers of hardware and blasters:
OutOfDarts:
- Hardware: outofdarts.com/products/alche...
- Prints: outofdarts.com/products/alche...
outofdarts.com/products/alche...
SilverFoxIndustries:
- Hardware: silverfoxindustries.shop/prod...
- Prints: silverfoxindustries.shop/coll...
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Timestamps at the bottom of the description.
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I will add any frequently asked questions here:
- IF YOU HAVE ISSUES WITH THE BLASTER CATCHING: Remove the small spring from under the trigger. It is meant to make the trigger pull as light as possible, but some people's print tolerances mess with that. By removing the extra spring, the only force on the sear will be from the larger extension spring in the grip. If this does not help, move on to the next step.
- To fix the sear not catching, even without the extra trigger spring: 1, tension the blaster fully. 2, Make sure the sear is printed at 100% infill 8 walls. 3, Make sure the sear isn't bending because of the spring force on it. 4, Consider printing the optional "backup" plunger rod variant which has more tolerance for wonky printers.
- If your bars are slightly misaligned (ie, the pin holes on the two bars don't line up with each other once the blaster is fully assembled), the best way to fix misalignment is: 1, Attach the body bars to the tensioner block. 2, Push the other end of the bars into the endcap until one bar lines up with the pin hole. 3, While keeping the bars in the Endcap, drill out the holes with a 3/16ths inch drill bit. The bit will go through both bars and the print. The drill will get rid of the small misalignments.
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A few small notes:
- The takedown pin will deform the backmost holes in the body bars and in the endcap over time. This is to be expected, and is pretty much unavoidable. Just make sure the blaster stays tensioned each time you swap a spring, and don't over tighten the tensioner bolt.
- Expect Alchemist to hit ~20 FPS lower than a TC with an equivalent barrel and spring. This is caused by the shorter prime length of Alchemist.
- You can also lubricate all the ball bearings to make the blaster even smootherer.
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Timestamps:
Intro: 00:16
Hardware: 00:57
Tensioner Block + Body Bars: 03:18
Plunger: 05:43
Priming Block: 09:23
Ram: 14:27
Detent Block: 18:22
Magwell: 20:36
BarrelShroud Back: 29:50
Grip: 31:53
Lynx Grip: 35:41
Sear + Plunger Tube Area (Part 1): 36:21
Stocks: 37:14
Skeggox: 37:36
SBL1.0/Worker: 42:54
Fixed Stock: 46:13
N-Strike Lug: 47:24
Sear + Plunger Tube Area (Part 2): 48:00
Attach Sear Area to the Grip: 50:32
Final Assembly: Prep: 1:00:34
Final Assembly: Front Shroud + Body Bars: 1:02:6
Final Assembly: Magwell Area + Priming System: 1:03:47
Final Assembly: Back half + plunger: 1:11:33
Final Assembly: Putting the halves together: 1:14:30
Final Assembly: Barrel Installation: 1:19:52
Final Assembly: Optional pump grip: 1:21:44
Final Assembly: Optional SCAR: 1:22:24
All done: 1:22:55 - Ігри
![[REVIEW] The SLAB V4 by Sillybutts (A 3D-printed Nerf Lever Action Blaster)](/img/n.gif)
Just built mine yesterday, this thing is fantastic and over powered. Printed easy, assembly was assembly but other than missing a single hex nut everything went together easy enough. The design of the parts is top notch, I was constantly impressed by how things fit together through the whole build, you used every trick in the book to make this thing as easy to build as possible.
Glad you liked it :)
Sooo good! I had some rattles after final assembly and discovered it was the pins that fit loosely in between the body sections.
I put dabs of super glue on one side of each pin to solve the rattle.
Elastic cord tip. Use a surgical clamp to hold the tension while you are making a knot. It's way easier to do this with both hands.
You can put a short screw in the end. The tension pull it tight. But dont use wood/plastic screws with a sharp threat, they cut the rubber.
That Blaster is a masterpiece, everything fits with no issues.
Thx alot 🙋
Woooow it finally came out. Your content is amazing
Great guide and fantastic blaster, thanks for all the hard work!
Ty :)
Ahhh so awesome! Can't wait to get the filament I need to start printing! 😊
I just finished assembling mine from the OOD hw kit. SIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIILLLLLLLLLLKKKKYYYYYYYYYYYY smooth prime. My daughter can finally prime one of your blasters with one hand 🤣🥰Kudos for your amazing skills and effort to create this beauty. Thanks for your contribution to this awesome new (to me) hobby/sport/community. I am now anxiously waiting for the release of the "Yet To Be Named" Nerf Shell Fed Pistol 🙂
Glad you like it!
someone remind me to watch this on sep 23 cuz im getting this on my bday.
I've got a question about printer settings. My prints are having a lot of interference. I sent you a chat request on discord so we can discuss it more.
Almost done printing this amazing piece of art. Can I ask where you get the two rods for the Worker SBL stock variant? I haven't been able to locate them. Thanks!
You can usually get them at SilverFoxIndustries, but they are out of stock right now silverfoxindustries.shop/products/sbl-retractable-stock
Appreciate it! Thank you
👍
I have a question on the n strike lug. Does this let you attach other stocks to it? If so, what would I search for to make sure I've got the right attachment?
Ideally I'd like to find something I can 3d print
Its for official Nerf stocks. Most of them are too long, but I added it anyway for fun. I think MAYBE the old short retaliator stocks could be short enough to use, but idk.
Do you have any links to the extendable stock hardware that is not included in the hardware kit?
I do not. I believe Silverfox is selling it now. It used to be just through Gavin Fuzzy as an addon to the SBL, or by taking it off of the worker stock.
Does this work for the skeggox adjustable stock?@@Sillybutts
@@blueboy9959 The skeggox adjustable stock hardware is included in the Alchemist HW kit.
@@Sillybutts let’s gooooo!!!!