There is a setting on Cura slicer that is called "slicing tolerance", using exclusive will shrink the print to always fit inside the model bounds - that helps a lot :)
I know I’m late to the show but do you think there’s a way to use a cord to get to 150-175 fps? I’m sure past a certain point it just cuts the darts in half down the middle and I’m sure the trigger is a limitation as well as it has to lift the cord out of the shelf to fire. I just picked up one and would love to build it up to a super stock blaster. Thanks.
Have you ever tried to make a 3d printable mag that uses string istead of springs? I have an idea for how one might work, but have absolutely no idea how to implement it.
I've been having a hard time with the grip and mag retention. I have noticed that my mags are just a little loose in the mag well, and they move up and down a little. The spring tension on the darts from the follower pushes the magazine down enough that the pusher often misses the darts, at best going over them and chambering nothing and at worst folding my darts in half. It is worth mentioning that I am using 3D printed mags and worker gen 3 darts instead of gen 3 plus darts, but the exact same mags and darts work flawlessly in my maraca that I printed with the magazine catch/lever. When the grip was fresh off the printer, magazines were so stiff that I could hardly seat them, now they are so loose that they are causing malfunctions unless I hold the magazine up while I am working the action. Do you have any recommendations? I haven't tried printing the grip with PETG yet, only PLA, since I don't have my slicer settings dialed in for PETG, especially for larger prints like the grip. I have problems with the layers separating on smaller PETG prints as it is. Aside from these reliability issues I am happy with the print, and I appreciate your work and willingness to help people in the comments.
I have not tried it with printed mags but the printed mags with drum springs or printed springs are way stiffer than the storebought coil powered mags, so i guess thats why its pushing out easier. as for the retention you might wanna try to either print with pla+ or even petg, just something a bit more elastic than classic PLA. some brands are just insanely hard and prone to material yielding before flexing away
Amazing stuff! For some reason your models are allways too tight for my prints, the pins I just print at 98%, but the sliding is harder to fix. I can't reload without using a hammer and the mag stuck so hard that I had to cut up the handle. Any chance you could offer lower tolerance models on these? I use Cura Slicer. Printing "Outside in" makes the issue slightly better.
there is a setting that will determine if the slicer uses the average, outside or inside for slopes, try that out maybe? The added files would bloat the size to a degree and would add a ton of workload to the already pretty tedious publishing and QA process, so unless many others have that issue i probably do not have time for that sadly. Usually a bit of sanding helps, or printer calibration. are you using a .4 nozzle?
@@bruceleedleleedleleedlelee1127 I understand, will try tweak that. I have two different brands of printers (0.4 nozzle), they both have the same issue, so it is probably the down to the slicer.
Hello just bought the stl files. Do I have to switch the print orientation of any pieces or do i just leave it? And how long should i make the chord? Thank you!
leave it as it is, they are preoriented and do not need support. id say like 50cm of string? its easier if you just take what you need off the spool and cut off afterwards
There is a setting on Cura slicer that is called "slicing tolerance", using exclusive will shrink the print to always fit inside the model bounds - that helps a lot :)
thanks for the research there. i dont use cura anymore
I know I’m late to the show but do you think there’s a way to use a cord to get to 150-175 fps? I’m sure past a certain point it just cuts the darts in half down the middle and I’m sure the trigger is a limitation as well as it has to lift the cord out of the shelf to fire. I just picked up one and would love to build it up to a super stock blaster. Thanks.
Have you ever tried to make a 3d printable mag that uses string istead of springs? I have an idea for how one might work, but have absolutely no idea how to implement it.
this thing is way too powerful when i hit a tarp it makes a gunshot noise
I've been having a hard time with the grip and mag retention. I have noticed that my mags are just a little loose in the mag well, and they move up and down a little. The spring tension on the darts from the follower pushes the magazine down enough that the pusher often misses the darts, at best going over them and chambering nothing and at worst folding my darts in half. It is worth mentioning that I am using 3D printed mags and worker gen 3 darts instead of gen 3 plus darts, but the exact same mags and darts work flawlessly in my maraca that I printed with the magazine catch/lever. When the grip was fresh off the printer, magazines were so stiff that I could hardly seat them, now they are so loose that they are causing malfunctions unless I hold the magazine up while I am working the action. Do you have any recommendations? I haven't tried printing the grip with PETG yet, only PLA, since I don't have my slicer settings dialed in for PETG, especially for larger prints like the grip. I have problems with the layers separating on smaller PETG prints as it is.
Aside from these reliability issues I am happy with the print, and I appreciate your work and willingness to help people in the comments.
I have not tried it with printed mags but the printed mags with drum springs or printed springs are way stiffer than the storebought coil powered mags, so i guess thats why its pushing out easier. as for the retention you might wanna try to either print with pla+ or even petg, just something a bit more elastic than classic PLA. some brands are just insanely hard and prone to material yielding before flexing away
Try to use Foam tape
I kinda want to print one of your designs in tpu when I get a printer just to see what happens.
Amazing stuff!
For some reason your models are allways too tight for my prints, the pins I just print at 98%, but the sliding is harder to fix. I can't reload without using a hammer and the mag stuck so hard that I had to cut up the handle. Any chance you could offer lower tolerance models on these? I use Cura Slicer. Printing "Outside in" makes the issue slightly better.
there is a setting that will determine if the slicer uses the average, outside or inside for slopes, try that out maybe? The added files would bloat the size to a degree and would add a ton of workload to the already pretty tedious publishing and QA process, so unless many others have that issue i probably do not have time for that sadly. Usually a bit of sanding helps, or printer calibration. are you using a .4 nozzle?
@@bruceleedleleedleleedlelee1127 I understand, will try tweak that. I have two different brands of printers (0.4 nozzle), they both have the same issue, so it is probably the down to the slicer.
Geologist? That's rock hammer!
Nope, dental technician, although the two can be close together depending on the oral hygiene of the patient
Looks amazing! How much filament does it use overall and is there an easy way to install a bcar or pcar? Thanks!
id guesstimate at 600g, and no i have not tried out different stabilizers, but it could be added to the muzzle piece
@@bruceleedleleedleleedlelee1127 Awesome thank you! Love your work!
Hello just bought the stl files. Do I have to switch the print orientation of any pieces or do i just leave it? And how long should i make the chord? Thank you!
leave it as it is, they are preoriented and do not need support. id say like 50cm of string? its easier if you just take what you need off the spool and cut off afterwards
@@bruceleedleleedleleedlelee1127
That sounds great! Thank you can’t wait to print.
whats the FPS on one of these?
Depends on the string, can go up to 110
@@bruceleedleleedleleedlelee1127 what kind of string for 110?
@@sunnymiata8347 a very firm 4mm elastic cord, there is no surefire way to get the right cord
Do the primary parts need supports?
Its all support free
@@bruceleedleleedleleedlelee1127 thanks!
how long does this take to print?
about 3 days with no issues