Five years later and a few CRV gen 1 videos later, I’d say that you should have tried a different shift solenoid even if that one tested ok. I watched Eric the car guy do the same test and put the old one back in with no joy. Same problem. He bought a used part from eBay and fixed the issue for $50 in parts. So do that first before dropping the transmission.
I have a 1999 Buick that had over 100,000 miles on it when I picked it up. The transmission started to slip horribly a few months later. It'd never been serviced. So I serviced it. The filter was totally plugged. Tons of debris. After that first service, it ran perfect for around 1500 miles, then started slipping again just like the first time. So I serviced it again. Again the filter was plugged, It ran perfect for around 1300 miles, then started slipping again, just like the first time. The filter was again plugged, but not as much debris. So I serviced it again and it has run For the last 15,000 miles without any issues. It's now been a year since the last service, and I do want to service it soon just because. . . I've been keeping an eye on the fluid, which is still nice and pink, and zero burning smell. I may have just gotten lucky. I consider myself lucky, as the vehicle is now 20 years old. Basically, if you have a vehicle that's never had a transmission service done, and it starts to slip again after that the first service, service it again. All too often, people will have it serviced that first time, the transmission will start to slip after a couple of thousand miles, and the transmission shop will tell them that they've burned up the transmission because the new fluid allowed lodged debris to plug up important plumming, and burn up the transmission. Tons of money, when all that may be needed is to service a few times.
I had a 99 cr-v the problem with the transmission i had it slipped and flared between 2nd and 3rd as well 3rd and 4th gears it lasted till the transmission failed completely. as the filters inside them are nonservicable i did install an external filter kit from B&M it did help a bit as it uses a standard oil filter as i used a pennzoil PZ 19 and changed the filter every time i changed the oil. as i did check all the solenoids the linear solenoid. they checked out fine. as the failures i had is when i lost all drive to the vehicle and the check engine light came on for it. it just needed a transmission i would of still had it. it only had 127,000 miles when it did let go the B&M filter kit i got from Summit Racing equipment i mounted the filter under the right front wheelwell in a easilly accessable location. when i checked the screens in the solenoids in mine they were all ok it was inside the transmission. but installing the B&M filter did help as allison transmissions they do have spin on oilfilters on them. the 1997-2001 Honda CR-V there is two groups of solenoids a pair on top of the transmission, another pair under a black cover in the wheelwell on the bottom of the transmission, and the one linear Solenoid. i took real good care of my Cr-V till the trans went
yep i used to have a 1999 cr-v EX and had transmission problems. i no longer have the vehicle but the engine on it was healthy. i had to replace several catalytic converters and oxygen sensors as i kept getting a P0420 catalyst efficiency code. was the other problem i had the alternator went bad on it so i converted the harness to run a GM CS130 110 amp alternator on it as i had to fabricate an upper mount for it. when the trans failed on it i just replaced both oxygen sensors was sucked to waste them. the model i had was an EX model nighthawk black pearl. i did install accesories from Honda on it which are now discontinued the cargo cover, hard cover spare tire cover, chrome grille trim, and rear spoiler with LED brake light the roof rack came with it when i owned it. the problem is the rust behind the rear wheels typical for vehicles in the Northeast US. plus the rust on the inside bottom of the doors too. as these vehicles were imported from Japan when they were new. as my 99 cr-v has been replaced by a 2008 Honda CR-V EX East Liberty Ohio built. the engine in the 1999-2001 cr-v its a B20Z2 as it has the chamber on the intake manifold. if i were to get another cr-v like this i will have to get the 1999-2001 EX model that has the 5 speed manual transmission. as some of the LX EX and all SE trims have the 4 speed automatic the SE model is the top of the line it has leather seats, premium audio system, chrome grille trim, body colored bumpers, moulding and hard cover spare tire cover. the neat thing with these 1997-2001 cr-v is the rear cargo floor. take it out unfold the legs you have a nice table as i saved that when i junked my 99 cr-v. the one you got the 1999 cr-v is when Honda did its mid cycle refresh on them. notibly the interior and the engine from the B20B to the B20Z2.
180000 miles is nothing. My 99 CRV transmission just went out today. Just over 318000 miles on the original trans. I can't complain about that. Same symptoms as the comments. 3rd gear hunting and can't find 3rd and then clutch starts to slip.
This is the car i just bought in June for 1000$ Each minor repair we’ve done makes it run smoother and smoother. She’s got 270k miles on it and still going strong
There is another one double head shift solenoid under the single one you removed, or beside it, and it is very. Important on shifting. The first one you removed is a torque converter solenoid, and has nothing to do with shifting, but it is very important on regulating the car power by regulating fluid thought torque converter. I changed mine torque converter sensor and my car got better more power like new.
It's to the side below the linear solenoid, Honda hid it under a metal cover, once you remove the metal covering you'll see it, and if you're still lost like I was it's location to the right of the drain plug for the transmission
Solenoid kicking doesn't mean it is good, like my 99 Honda CR-V transmission solenoid was kicking but it was not working properly, I just put new one and problem solved, the same for my idle air control valve was bad idle fluctuation, and I tested it with 12 volte power source, and it was kicking, but it is bad, I just put new one and problem solved, but you can try waning all of them three solenoid, by applying voltage and spraying theottle cleaning or sensor cleaning through them and see if problem solved or car got a little better.
in this video, i saw you change the linear solenoid and the lock-up solenoid but not the shift solenoid. Its located next to the linear solenoid under a box. Have you tried that one?
have you tried manually shifting. I know it sounds crazy but it worked on an old AMC we had. i'm not talking about, it wont go into 3rd or 4th so you down shift to try to get it in. Start with 1st and work your way through the gears :-)
I test drove one yesterday that shifted very well, from park to reverse and into drive with no clunking. The kickdown while accelerating was also fine, as well as the upshifts. Only little thing I noticed was that in the 2nd to 3rd upshift, after getting into 3rd, revs would jump a little, probably about 500 rpms, and then go back down, but with no perceptible impact. Weirdest thing. I wanna buy it, but I'm not sure about that... Any ideas?
I have a 98 crv. It slams really bad when shifting from park to reverse or 1st tu second. Also I usually have to move off off in 1st gear.. I'm concerned
5:40 is so funny! And that plastic white box, it's to help separate water from the intake incase you do drive a little deeper into a puddle. Supposed to save it from being waterlogged.
I have a 98 CRV with the exact same problem, i also checked the solenoids and flushed the transmission fluid but it still slips. Did you guys find out what actually failed in the transmission?
Thank you for your contribution. My 2001 CRV had AAMCO rebuilt 4 speed automatic installed about 12000 miles ago at 220,000 miles (previous owner). There is now a problem that shows up after about 30 minutes of driving. Doesn't go at all in any gear. Wait a little bit and it's ok. Last time in traffic, I stopped engine and restarted about 3 minutes later and drove off. Oil looks clean with no burnt smell. Any ideas from anyone. Anyone know where I can get details of how the transmission works, photos of the working parts, oil flow, etc.? I'm not finding many details anywhere about this transmission.
Try doing a drain and fill like he suggested in the video. And then after the drain and fill use ATC fluid. Automatic transmission conditioner fluid. ATC fluid will condition the remaining old transmission fluid that was not replaced when you the drain and fill
My 00 crv with 212 , 000 revs way out in 3rd , I was told it was the linear solenoid, I hope mine isn’t roached, when it revs out it is still pulling tho
There isn't some kinda speed control sensor is there? My dakota was doing the same thing and it ended up just being a stupid sensor that cost $250 to get.
All cars are desided that way. Not since Hitlers VW bug were any easy outwise you could leave a car on side of the road and it would be part picked to the dirt. Have to ever considered a Palanquin??
Question: I have a 2001 crv manual. When I try to go into reverse, it takes a few tries. As I let go of the clutch I hear soft grinding. Doesnt sound good. By the 2nd or 3rd try itll go into gear. Any ideas of what that could be a sign of? PS I kept waiting for you to hit the hood rod! LOL
I bought a Honda CR-v for 600 bucks n only issue I had with it was the axaust valve was burnt that's only issue I had with my car n all I need to change with my dad or uncle that worked on this is the cap and rotor and the ball joints upper and lower
my a/t tranny civic fd have 2 filters: 1 internal and the other one external located just below theleft side of the radiator. could it be the same case?
I have a 97 honda civic hatchback. It keeps drinking the antifreeze and I cant find any leaks. Any advice? Also, was driving the other day and car just quit moving. Would start and run but would not move. I replaced 2 transmission solenoids and that didnt help. Any advice?
Thanks so much. Having same problem. I haven’t done much diagnostics on it but I think I’ll just start looking for a new trans since it has 260k miles lol
Good for you. The tranny on my '98 CRV finally died at the 298,600 mile mark...just shy of the 300k mark and two months shy of me owning it for 25 years. I have a used tranny with 181k miles on it sitting in my garage waiting to be installed.
Another video a guy changed synthetic fluid 3 times to flush the internal filter. It fixed it. Maybe you should have gone farther with more changes first.
I have a 1998 honda crv, first is I cannot shift it to "P" then after wards I put it into reverse and shift it "D4" it drive for awhile after a few minutes I heard a thug or something break in my transmission and it got stuck on "D4" I cannot shift it to other gears anymore. I need help....
mine worked well, i drained the trans the second time after 100 miles..then refilled. once i refilled, the thing run like a charm..it was sticking in second gear most of the time...that really sucks..but i love this car 9 years and still strong..
Drain refill drive for a week, then drain and refill for a second time, drive for 200 miles, drain and refill for a 3rd time. If the problem still persist new transmission on the way
Best preview picture.
Indeed.
Five years later and a few CRV gen 1 videos later, I’d say that you should have tried a different shift solenoid even if that one tested ok. I watched Eric the car guy do the same test and put the old one back in with no joy. Same problem. He bought a used part from eBay and fixed the issue for $50 in parts. So do that first before dropping the transmission.
I have a 1999 Buick that had over 100,000 miles on it when I picked it up. The transmission started to slip horribly a few months later. It'd never been serviced.
So I serviced it. The filter was totally plugged. Tons of debris. After that first service, it ran perfect for around 1500 miles, then started slipping again just like the first time.
So I serviced it again. Again the filter was plugged, It ran perfect for around 1300 miles, then started slipping again, just like the first time. The filter was again plugged, but not as much debris.
So I serviced it again and it has run
For the last 15,000 miles without any issues.
It's now been a year since the last service, and I do want to service it soon just because. . .
I've been keeping an eye on the fluid, which is still nice and pink, and zero burning smell.
I may have just gotten lucky. I consider myself lucky, as the vehicle is now 20 years old.
Basically, if you have a vehicle that's never had a transmission service done, and it starts to slip again after that the first service, service it again. All too often, people will have it serviced that first time, the transmission will start to slip after a couple of thousand miles, and the transmission shop will tell them that they've burned up the transmission because the new fluid allowed lodged debris to plug up important plumming, and burn up the transmission. Tons of money, when all that may be needed is to service a few times.
Sean Hollingsworth Thanks for the encouragement
I had a 99 cr-v the problem with the transmission i had it slipped and flared between 2nd and 3rd as well 3rd and 4th gears it lasted till the transmission failed completely. as the filters inside them are nonservicable i did install an external filter kit from B&M it did help a bit as it uses a standard oil filter as i used a pennzoil PZ 19 and changed the filter every time i changed the oil. as i did check all the solenoids the linear solenoid. they checked out fine. as the failures i had is when i lost all drive to the vehicle and the check engine light came on for it. it just needed a transmission i would of still had it. it only had 127,000 miles when it did let go the B&M filter kit i got from Summit Racing equipment i mounted the filter under the right front wheelwell in a easilly accessable location. when i checked the screens in the solenoids in mine they were all ok it was inside the transmission. but installing the B&M filter did help as allison transmissions they do have spin on oilfilters on them. the 1997-2001 Honda CR-V there is two groups of solenoids a pair on top of the transmission, another pair under a black cover in the wheelwell on the bottom of the transmission, and the one linear Solenoid. i took real good care of my Cr-V till the trans went
+Derek Obidowski Thanks for all that information!
yep i used to have a 1999 cr-v EX and had transmission problems. i no longer have the vehicle but the engine on it was healthy. i had to replace several catalytic converters and oxygen sensors as i kept getting a P0420 catalyst efficiency code. was the other problem i had the alternator went bad on it so i converted the harness to run a GM CS130 110 amp alternator on it as i had to fabricate an upper mount for it. when the trans failed on it i just replaced both oxygen sensors was sucked to waste them. the model i had was an EX model nighthawk black pearl. i did install accesories from Honda on it which are now discontinued the cargo cover, hard cover spare tire cover, chrome grille trim, and rear spoiler with LED brake light the roof rack came with it when i owned it. the problem is the rust behind the rear wheels typical for vehicles in the Northeast US. plus the rust on the inside bottom of the doors too. as these vehicles were imported from Japan when they were new. as my 99 cr-v has been replaced by a 2008 Honda CR-V EX East Liberty Ohio built. the engine in the 1999-2001 cr-v its a B20Z2 as it has the chamber on the intake manifold. if i were to get another cr-v like this i will have to get the 1999-2001 EX model that has the 5 speed manual transmission. as some of the LX EX and all SE trims have the 4 speed automatic the SE model is the top of the line it has leather seats, premium audio system, chrome grille trim, body colored bumpers, moulding and hard cover spare tire cover. the neat thing with these 1997-2001 cr-v is the rear cargo floor. take it out unfold the legs you have a nice table as i saved that when i junked my 99 cr-v. the one you got the 1999 cr-v is when Honda did its mid cycle refresh on them. notibly the interior and the engine from the B20B to the B20Z2.
180000 miles is nothing. My 99 CRV transmission just went out today. Just over 318000 miles on the original trans. I can't complain about that. Same symptoms as the comments. 3rd gear hunting and can't find 3rd and then clutch starts to slip.
This is the car i just bought in June for 1000$ Each minor repair we’ve done makes it run smoother and smoother. She’s got 270k miles on it and still going strong
There is another one double head shift solenoid under the single one you removed, or beside it, and it is very. Important on shifting. The first one you removed is a torque converter solenoid, and has nothing to do with shifting, but it is very important on regulating the car power by regulating fluid thought torque converter. I changed mine torque converter sensor and my car got better more power like new.
Where is the solenoid you're talking about?
It's to the side below the linear solenoid, Honda hid it under a metal cover, once you remove the metal covering you'll see it, and if you're still lost like I was it's location to the right of the drain plug for the transmission
Try taking off the shift solenoid and clean the screens. Then test them with a 12v battery. If they have a crisp clicking sound you're good to go.
3 of them I remember
Solenoid kicking doesn't mean it is good, like my 99 Honda CR-V transmission solenoid was kicking but it was not working properly, I just put new one and problem solved, the same for my idle air control valve was bad idle fluctuation, and I tested it with 12 volte power source, and it was kicking, but it is bad, I just put new one and problem solved, but you can try waning all of them three solenoid, by applying voltage and spraying theottle cleaning or sensor cleaning through them and see if problem solved or car got a little better.
Which solenoid?
in this video, i saw you change the linear solenoid and the lock-up solenoid but not the shift solenoid. Its located next to the linear solenoid under a box. Have you tried that one?
Where these solenoids located at?
have you tried manually shifting. I know it sounds crazy but it worked on an old AMC we had. i'm not talking about, it wont go into 3rd or 4th so you down shift to try to get it in. Start with 1st and work your way through the gears :-)
I have something similar with my 98' automatic. Mine doesn't want to go into 4th, sticks at 5500 RPM. When I let off the gas it shifts very rought.
Same here. I can’t seem to figure out what’s wrong with it.
@@ggromeo8 Mine is fixed, I had to clean the solenoids.
@@adamscorner4783which ones?
"oh, I just ripped my pants on this piece of shit" Tell us how you really feel RoadKing! ....Ripped his pants so bad it turned them into shorts!
I test drove one yesterday that shifted very well, from park to reverse and into drive with no clunking. The kickdown while accelerating was also fine, as well as the upshifts. Only little thing I noticed was that in the 2nd to 3rd upshift, after getting into 3rd, revs would jump a little, probably about 500 rpms, and then go back down, but with no perceptible impact. Weirdest thing. I wanna buy it, but I'm not sure about that... Any ideas?
I have a 98 crv. It slams really bad when shifting from park to reverse or 1st tu second. Also I usually have to move off off in 1st gear.. I'm concerned
I have the same problem. Mine is 98 crv as well.
He really loves his cars.
My car it's a 1999 Honda Civic CRV and is stuck on her skill stuck on transmission how do I go about this
5:40 is so funny! And that plastic white box, it's to help separate water from the intake incase you do drive a little deeper into a puddle. Supposed to save it from being waterlogged.
I have a 98 CRV with the exact same problem, i also checked the solenoids and flushed the transmission fluid but it still slips. Did you guys find out what actually failed in the transmission?
“I just ripped my Pants on this piece of Shit!” 4:33 Awesome
😂
What about the range sensor (aka transmission position sensor)? Could that be the culprit?
With as many CRV's as there are (or were) on the roads, this should be an easy trans. to find.
Yup there's still Soo many of them on the roads here for such an old car
My crv has now down 174,000km . I am now starting to notice when it's cold it's takes long to shift and it's not as smooth
Always warm up your transmission so the silinoids are working properly, once it is warm it should shift nice and smooth
“Ah!”
“What is that”
“Aaah, I just ripped my pants on this piece of shit!”
First gear is stuck on transmission how do I go about fix in it
Love the vids bro
Thanks man!
Thank you for your contribution. My 2001 CRV had AAMCO rebuilt 4 speed automatic installed about 12000 miles ago at 220,000 miles (previous owner). There is now a problem that shows up after about 30 minutes of driving. Doesn't go at all in any gear. Wait a little bit and it's ok. Last time in traffic, I stopped engine and restarted about 3 minutes later and drove off. Oil looks clean with no burnt smell. Any ideas from anyone. Anyone know where I can get details of how the transmission works, photos of the working parts, oil flow, etc.? I'm not finding many details anywhere about this transmission.
Hi Frank, I'm not an automatic trans expert but you could check all the solenoids and sensors, maybe one has an issue once it heats up.
motoforlyfe i have the same issue and i found out the bottom to solenoids are not working like they should the ones under the black cover
Try doing a drain and fill like he suggested in the video. And then after the drain and fill use ATC fluid. Automatic transmission conditioner fluid. ATC fluid will condition the remaining old transmission fluid that was not replaced when you the drain and fill
Ya, runs great……..”put a hole in my pants from the POS”. 😂 your dad is funny
internal failure would be my guess
There is a filter inside the trans ... Trans has to be disassembled to replace . Awesome Honda designe
Where is the tranmission control module ????
Im not that much car guy but thumbnail got me
Torque converter?
"I just ripped my pants in this piss of shit" lmao
So I have a 2001 crv... reverse is strong so is 1 and 2 but in drive it just revs ...how can that be ?
My 00 crv with 212 , 000 revs way out in 3rd , I was told it was the linear solenoid, I hope mine isn’t roached, when it revs out it is still pulling tho
Did you ever find out if it was the linear solenoid?
Where is the liner solenoid located?
My 98 CRV goes into false neutral turn the key off wait 10 seconds start it back up shifts through every gear
There isn't some kinda speed control sensor is there? My dakota was doing the same thing and it ended up just being a stupid sensor that cost $250 to get.
New trans is on its way, we're well beyond the point of replacing sensors :-)
Did you see a kangaroof commercial before watching this video
It helped me. My trans is shot. Thanks.
What did you end up doing?
ben M swapped trans
The rubber band is getting stretched out.
The car looks difficult to work on. What makes and models of cars are easy to work on?
All cars are desided that way. Not since Hitlers VW bug were any easy outwise you could leave a car on side of the road and it would be part picked to the dirt. Have to ever considered a Palanquin??
Question:
I have a 2001 crv manual. When I try to go into reverse, it takes a few tries. As I let go of the clutch I hear soft grinding. Doesnt sound good. By the 2nd or 3rd try itll go into gear.
Any ideas of what that could be a sign of?
PS I kept waiting for you to hit the hood rod! LOL
Truthguy73 the soft grinding might the throw out bearing I had that on my manual CRV, not sure about reverse though
row through your gears before you go into reverse
I have a 2001 Honda CR-V and I came across this code P0730 which is incorrect gear ratio. Ima try to have the mechanic to diagnose the car
Did you ever get it figured out? Mine did the same
@@9571kent I think the engine was starting to go out but at the same time it was running bad valve or bad engine lol
My 2009 Honda CR-V has a vibrating sound when I go 30 to 40 miles per hour what can it be?
Your tires
I bought a Honda CR-v for 600 bucks n only issue I had with it was the axaust valve was burnt that's only issue I had with my car n all I need to change with my dad or uncle that worked on this is the cap and rotor and the ball joints upper and lower
@Jeff Johnson I bought one for 300 with bad valves the dude said it ran and drove great LMAO
You have the updated intake i believe
Love this video
Thanks Gregory!
I would of run and changed it 3 times. With Dextron 3 and the put the dw fluid in it last time ..all would be well
The correct way. 12 qts honda atf. Drain fill drive 10 miles repeat. Never ever clean the screens.
It's a filter not a filder
my a/t tranny civic fd have 2 filters: 1 internal and the other one external located just below theleft side of the radiator. could it be the same case?
did you fix this? how did you fixed it?
I have a 97 honda civic hatchback. It keeps drinking the antifreeze and I cant find any leaks. Any advice?
Also, was driving the other day and car just quit moving. Would start and run but would not move. I replaced 2 transmission solenoids and that didnt help. Any advice?
Blown headgasket if it drinks coolant.
Check your water pump
My Honda was doing that it was a radiator cap
So why did you call this "TRANSMISSION DIAGNOSIS", again? 😃
Shift solenoid can go bad. Just replace it. 3 of them.
My car has the same problem with the 3 gears. How do you fix it?
Did you fix it?
I thought the thumbnail was fake but guess I was wrong..
How if my crv is late to pikup
Thanks so much. Having same problem. I haven’t done much diagnostics on it but I think I’ll just start looking for a new trans since it has 260k miles lol
My 2000 crv has 369,xxx miles in it and it just happened!
Good for you. The tranny on my '98 CRV finally died at the 298,600 mile mark...just shy of the 300k mark and two months shy of me owning it for 25 years. I have a used tranny with 181k miles on it sitting in my garage waiting to be installed.
It's to catch water before it goes into the air intake 😂
Another video a guy changed synthetic fluid 3 times to flush the internal filter. It fixed it. Maybe you should have gone farther with more changes first.
1997 whatever gear i put it in just won't move
Did you end up fixing it
Good video
I have a 98 crv and I have to manually shift it and it only has 2nd and 4th gear but tries to go into others at times. Would that be the solenoid?
I have a 1998 honda crv, first is I cannot shift it to "P" then after wards I put it into reverse and shift it "D4" it drive for awhile after a few minutes I heard a thug or something break in my transmission and it got stuck on "D4" I cannot shift it to other gears anymore. I need help....
you really dont need to bring down the transmission, just drain and refill with synthetic like twice to clean the filter in the trans and its cool...
+BILGRAM KWENDO We tried that, didn't have much luck ☺
mine worked well, i drained the trans the second time after 100 miles..then refilled. once i refilled, the thing run like a charm..it was sticking in second gear most of the time...that really sucks..but i love this car 9 years and still strong..
Thank you for helping Honda family...
motoforlyfe a bit late, but check ur transmission control module if ure still having issues
Drain refill drive for a week, then drain and refill for a second time, drive for 200 miles, drain and refill for a 3rd time. If the problem still persist new transmission on the way
Put the over drive on then turn it off
You really didn't "find out" anything. Lol
What fix it same problem
Check diff
Manual swap!!!!
Soilnoid
Tps
First