I just wanted to drop a comment to say "Thank you", this tutorial series has been invaluable for helping me rebuild my deck. I really greatly appreciate the time you took in putting these videos together.
I'm currently rebuilding a front deck and I keep referencing your videos. I have notched corner posts on my back deck and couldn't figure out how the previous contractors did it so I could match my front deck and you may be the only video that shows how to do it. Thank you for all the useful info.
Not to mention a 14” band saw does a great job cutting the notch out of the 4x4 rail posts. Nice to see you too my advise and picked up the horizontal oscillating blade.
Notching rail posts weakens the posts and makes for a dangerous and illegal railing. The 3/8 inch lag bolts placed in a line further weakens what is left of the 4X4s. These posts could not handle 1/4th the lateral force that code calls for. This a dangerous structure and NO ONE should emulate shoddy carpentry like this video shows.
Thank you for the good tip and yes its code to put these posts on cause they are very solid. That's how I do my post now. Good work and thank you again
I run those posts all the way up past the lip of the railings - but I liked your cuts - very nice. We have to run post continuous without splicing -according to code in the US. You do nice work sir. You are from the group that FINISHES a job. The folks that complete a job. The finishing touch. Everyone should see the patience and planning in your design - whether or not it's code.
How do you have 45,000 plus views and only 342 likes. What is wrong with people. That like not saying thank you. You deserve better. You video's are great.
I spray can paint my drill bits a bright color so if (when) they drop to the ground I can still find them. Some of the paint does get worn off but most of it remains and is easily seen.
It looks nice, but I would not trust this railing at all, I think you should review the code. Eg rather than just lag screw it in, you should through bolt and use one of these tension ties on the inside upper screw to prevent the boards from pushing out when someone leans on them: DTT ZMAX Galvanized Deck Tension Tie
@@arkanoiddude Only a complete fool would want to cut the 4X4 posts in half right at the area where they NEED TO BE THE STRONGEST!?!?! If done on a second story deck, I would call it reckless endangerment and should be criminal!. It is like sawing half way through a wooden ladder's rungs and telling people to go climb to the second story with it.
@@arkanoiddude Well 4X4 posts split in half at the exact point that they need to be the strongest will split the rest of the way possibly killing someone EVERYWHERE! Only a complete fool would want to notch his 4X4 posts to the strength of a 2X4
I wish people would quit notching deck posts. Not only is it against building codes in most areas, but it's just all around a weak joint and causes rot underneath the notch. I'm currently redoing three large decks I have around my house to make them both legal and actually strong by using a full post along side the outer joists utilizing two tension anchors per post tied in underneath the deck and using 1/2" carriage bolts. Every post I've removed used lags and when I spun them out they all broke a half inch into the wood due to corrosion. Scary! My posts will outlast me and the deck.
Notching a 4x4 halfway will reduce it strength by 70%. If you like the look and you don't pull a permit or you think you don't have an inspection for that that's up to you. Never understood, why do more work (notching) to make it weaker.
he has a tripled up rim in part 8 you can see it way over kill. my building Inspector won't allow outside mounted railing post "have to be boxed" that was a "IBC" code change for CT. stair post have to be on a footing with strong ties and 18" in front of step for a landing
wish I had watched this first. I predrilled my post but not the joist at the smaller size. I had 2 galvanized bolts break half way or almost tight and had to fight like hell to get them out. One broke right at the joist, so there was not recovering it. I was not happy. I don't think my kids have ever heard me swear more. 37 degrees out here and can't get it done because of a dumb mistake.
Thanks for your comment. Breaking bolts or screws is a curse that makes us curse. It's normal, part of the job. Wait and see what happens when you break your thumbnail by accidentally hitting it with a hammer. Darn! Double darn! $%#@!!!
Any reason to not mount the posts on top of the decking? In other words, only cutting out the overhang portion of the decking to fit the post? I’m thinking that will be a little easier for me. 🤔
Thank you for your question. I've done deck posts both ways before, but my Mrs likes the look of this one. The county inspector approved it and this method passed the lateral load test, a little over 200lbs.
Loved your video I'am currently attempting to do the corner post. Post is notched out correctly however I'am having hard time marking out the corner of the deck any suggestions? I find any videos on cutting out the deck corner for a notched post. Thank you!!
Lag screws into the house framing without putting in proximal peering is disaster. Too many aging decks have collapsed injuring or causing fatalities when large groups gather n the deck. Lag screws always loosen secondary to wood movement, moisture changes and vibration secondary to loading from foot traffic. Reinforcement should be identical to flooring framing in the house itself. Rail uprights should be bolted through not lagged and 4x4 or 8 x8 uprights should have a galvanized bottom plate where they sit on concrete to prevent wicking.
Curious if you have ever tried drilling straight through both pieces with the smaller 1/4" for the threads first and then enlarging the hole to 3/8" for the shank? Just don't try it with a spade bit ;-)
I drill with smaller bit all the way first then use larger to widen the through hole. But meh, whatever works. As a side note, Canadian eh? I see Mastercraft. Different areas, different codes.
Thank you for your good question. Lag bolts into end-grain only would be a problem, especially if no railings were there for extra support. Lag bolts into cross-grain and end-grain, no problem, especially with railings.
Dude, you are totally not to code. Notching posts turns a 4x4 into a 2x4, lag screws (undersized at that), no backup blocking, and more, it's a DIY nightmare for building inspectors. Yes, that was the OLD way, please, Please learn how to do it the RIGHT way.
@@BasaPete it's really the notching itself that's a problem. In effect it makes the 4x4 closer to the strength of a 2x4. The newer codes are very focused on resisting lateral outward forces from somebody leaning on the railing from on top of the deck. This video does a good job of showing the options for meeting the new codes for guardrail support attachment ua-cam.com/video/lTRquLcL6Jo/v-deo.html
Thank you for the question. I like sitting the posts on the deck boards, makes for a nice and neat job, but sitting it directly on the beam will work also.
Hey there. I'm in Ontario and my 14' X 20' deck is only approx 12-18" high off ground. Was thinking about a railing just down each end thne turned in 2' on each end on the long side for aesthetics. Would notching the posts be ok for my situation?
@@EYECOMEINPEACE 5x5 would look good. Just make sure that the point of attachment (rim joist or beam) is not a single plank. Double or triple planks would be fine.
@@EYECOMEINPEACE Yeah. Sizing the posts so they will look more uniform to the size of a deck is a good idea. I have a 14 X 24 that's 10ft off the ground. I went with 6 X 6's and they seem to fit the deck pretty well. If they were on a small deck they would look out of place, like over-engineering.
Thank you for your question. It is simple, just remove the old post and copy it the best you can. I've done this many times. If you can keep the old post intact it makes the job much easier.
@@dan5683 Make sure to fasten the butt-ends of the zig-zags to the joists, even if you have to use an extra joist. If not, the butt-ends of the deck boards will curl up. Several of mine curled, so I nailed a piece of 2"x6" under the curled butt-end and forced it down into place with a deck screw.
Cannot notch rail posts its against code...If I did that I would fail inspection every time plus its very unsafe as your essenually using a 2x4 to bear the forces. Looks nice but not code compliant..Read DCA6..
I appreciate what you're saying, and building code DCA 6, page 19, figure 24 backs up your statement. However, there's also a Concentrated Load Test, which states: The top rail of a deck must be capable of holding a horizontal load of 200 lbs of force applied to the mid-span of the railing and on top of a post. I exceeded that force by 25lbs, the railing bend a little, but there was no sound of wood cracking. My only concern is the #8 screws that I used to toenail the railing to the post. I may replace them with #10s.
Unfortunatley it does not matter what the top rail can withstand, you cannot notch rail post at the attachment point to deck as you have done, it would fail every time, at one time that was acceptable but not any more ..so its moot that notch makes it a code violation, I am not saying your work is bad it looks great ! I am just saying a Lic contractor doing that for a customer with a building permit would fail inspection and it would be a costly fix ! So not a persona attack at all, you do nice work ! but that is a code violation in this day and age. As for the railing they simpson makes brackets for those and no toe nailing or screwing. All the best !
@@billynolanjr2266 Thank you for bringing up this post notching issue. Certainly, anyone building a deck should first consult with his or her local building inspector. Here where I live we have two building codes: 1st - The National Building Code of Canada, which applies to government, big business, etc… and new residential construction cover by Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation. Under the National Building Code, there is no mention of the post notch, but I assume it is not allowed; they are a very fussy bunch. 2nd - The Local Building Code for Residential Construction not covered by CMHC. Our local building inspectors are more commonsense on some things, but very strict on others. Example: My notch is ok as long as it stands up to the force test, but the gap between the balusters cannot exceed 4", not even by 1/4". Thanks for the heads-up on the Simpson Brackets.
@@BasaPete lol ok your not even in the USA ...Guess it wouldent matter at all, I have no idea what the Canadian building codes are are at different country ! DCA6 wouldent even apply to you in Canada then, Its still a good guide on how to build a deck but isnt legal in canada .
@@billynolanjr2266 Your DCA building standards are very good. Anyone building a new home or even a deck on either side of the border would be adviced to read them. There's a lot of good information there and very detailed.
Thank you for your comment. My posts can withstand 200 lbs of lateral pressure. You can always reinforce the posts with angle iron if you're not comfortable with the notch.
Do not install your guard rail posts like the old fool is demonstrating. It is not code ANYWHERE to notch a rail post and is specifically forbidden in the new International Residential Building Code. 3/8" lag bolts are not code either. The new codes are prescriptive and 3/8 lags are illegal and dangerous. At least 1/2 inch through bolts are required with the 4X4s on the INSIDE of the rim joists also blocked and through bolted to at least one joist as well. This deck rail is a dangerous liability to have on your property.. Don't be stupid. This video should be re-titled "How NOT to install deck rail Posts.
Dangerous and illegal This is a good video for demonstrating what NOT to do. Guard rail posts should NEVER be notched or bolted to the outside of the rim joist. Ridiculously bad advice.
Our local building inspector okayed the railing for residential use. It withstood over 200 lbs of lateral pressure. We have stronger regulations for public use patios, such as restaurants and bars.
@@BasaPete You are lying. The International Residential Building Code specifically prescribes that safety guard rail posts not be attached in this manner...especially the part where you split part of the post away to half its width right at the point where it needs to be the strongest to resist splitting from outward lateral loads .Even if the posts were made of solid oak, bolting them to the outside of the rim joist as you have done will tear the rim away from the rest of the frame and rotate it outwards and down with a 200 pound outward lateral load at the top of the post. Physics in your little town are no different than they are anywhere else. We know that what you describe happened with your supposed building inspector is physically impossible. Now come clean and stop lying.
@@williardbillmore5713 Comments and criticism are welcome on my UA-cam channel, but personal attacks are not. I don't take it kindly to be called a liar. According to our municipality building engineer, and I quote: "Guardrail strength requirements: The International Building Code mandates that guardrails must be able to sustain a 200-pound force at the mid-span between posts, without excessive deflective."
@@BasaPete If you don't like being called out as a liar, then stop lying about this deck passing a building code inspection. You and I both know that it could not and did not.
Whoa - code or not - so much wrong here. Railing posts on top of the decking? Held in with just lag screws? At a span of slightly over 6'? I hope they never have a crowd over and a couple of people are leaning slightly against that railing. It might feel solid to you at the completion of the job, but no way that holds up over time and use.
Thank you for your comment. The original deck railing, similar to this one, lasted 30 years and I used untreated lumber. However, if I had built this deck for public gatherings I would change several things including the railings and steps.
Notching deck posts goes against IRC code that is observed ALL OVER THE WORLD. Why would anyone want to reduce a 4X4 post to a 2X4 at the exact point where it needs to be the strongest?? These rail posts will never pass code inspection. Splitting guard rail posts like this is the dumbest carpentry tip I have ever witnessed.
I just wanted to drop a comment to say "Thank you", this tutorial series has been invaluable for helping me rebuild my deck. I really greatly appreciate the time you took in putting these videos together.
Thank you for the nice comment.
@Leon thecat thanks. My work on this project grandfathered in this case, so the old way is just fine.
You are an excellent carpenter! Thank you for such a wonderful video with lots of easy to follow tips!
Thank you for your comment.
Very much agreed ... A breath of fresh air
I'm currently rebuilding a front deck and I keep referencing your videos. I have notched corner posts on my back deck and couldn't figure out how the previous contractors did it so I could match my front deck and you may be the only video that shows how to do it. Thank you for all the useful info.
Thank you for your nice comment.
Good luck on your project.
Watching your videos, and we are taking on our deck project Friday! Thanks for making these videos you’ve helped us tremendously!
Thank you for your nice comment.
Not to mention a 14” band saw does a great job cutting the notch out of the 4x4 rail posts. Nice to see you too my advise and picked up the horizontal oscillating blade.
Notching rail posts weakens the posts and makes for a dangerous and illegal railing. The 3/8 inch lag bolts placed in a line further weakens what is left of the 4X4s. These posts could not handle 1/4th the lateral force that code calls for.
This a dangerous structure and NO ONE should emulate shoddy carpentry like this video shows.
Thank you for the good tip and yes its code to put these posts on cause they are very solid. That's how I do my post now. Good work and thank you again
Thank you for your nice comment.
Great way to notch the posts! I'm doing that tomorrow and will try your method. Love the oscillating multitool, too.
Thanks for the comment.
Be sure to check with your local building inspector before notching deck posts.
Thank you for your comment.
Our local building inspector okayed the railing. It withstood over 200 lbs of lateral pressure.
It’s always a pleasure to see expert carpentry
Thank You.
You didn't see it here. No carpenter worth his salt would be caught dead notching railing posts like Basa Pete did in this video.
I run those posts all the way up past the lip of the railings - but I liked your cuts - very nice. We have to run post continuous without splicing -according to code in the US. You do nice work sir. You are from the group that FINISHES a job. The folks that complete a job. The finishing touch. Everyone should see the patience and planning in your design - whether or not it's code.
Thank you for your very nice comment.
Pete, my man. i did ur drilling at a angle trick. works like charm
Thank you for your nice comment.
I like these videos. The editing is well done also.
Thank you for the nice comment.
You can cut out windshields in cars with that blue tool and a different blade. Great video.
Thank you for your comment.
I'd like to see someone remove a windshield with an oscillating saw. I have one that needs removing.
@@BasaPete For experienced glass guys only
nice job and film, I will follow with my deck building
Thank you for your comment.
Good luck with your building project.
Thx for the valued and interesting video.
Thank you for your comment.
You are good on this stuff. Precision work right there.
Thank you very much.
Thanks I was looking for a video like yours! Helps a lot with my project! Much appreciated!
Thank you for your nice comment.
I hope you didn't copy his posts They are dangerous and illegal.
Thank you for the direction.
Thanks, glad I could help.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Great lessons sr
Thank you for your nice comment.
I like your videos help me a lot, I work with carpentry too, but professional just like you are few, I'm learning a lot, continue.
Thank you for your kind comment.
Great video . Thank you
Thank you. You're welcome.
Well done sir.
Thank you.
You’re a master! Great video!
Thank you for your nice compliment.
thanks for the information.
I'm glad it was helpful.
looking good chief !
Thanks.
How do you have 45,000 plus views and only 342 likes. What is wrong with people. That like not saying thank you. You deserve better. You video's are great.
Thank you for the kind comment.
I spray can paint my drill bits a bright color so if (when) they drop to the ground I can still find them. Some of the paint does get worn off but most of it remains and is easily seen.
That's a great idea. Thank You.
It looks nice, but I would not trust this railing at all, I think you should review the code. Eg rather than just lag screw it in, you should through bolt and use one of these tension ties on the inside upper screw to prevent the boards from pushing out when someone leans on them: DTT ZMAX Galvanized Deck Tension Tie
Code doesn't allow a 4x4 guard post to be notched.
Always check local codes before building.
@@BasaPete You obviously didn't.
@@williardbillmore5713 Codes aren't the same everywhere.
@@arkanoiddude Only a complete fool would want to cut the 4X4 posts in half right at the area where they NEED TO BE THE STRONGEST!?!?!
If done on a second story deck, I would call it reckless endangerment and should be criminal!.
It is like sawing half way through a wooden ladder's rungs and telling people to go climb to the second story with it.
@@arkanoiddude Well 4X4 posts split in half at the exact point that they need to be the strongest will split the rest of the way possibly killing someone EVERYWHERE!
Only a complete fool would want to notch his 4X4 posts to the strength of a 2X4
I wish people would quit notching deck posts. Not only is it against building codes in most areas, but it's just all around a weak joint and causes rot underneath the notch. I'm currently redoing three large decks I have around my house to make them both legal and actually strong by using a full post along side the outer joists utilizing two tension anchors per post tied in underneath the deck and using 1/2" carriage bolts. Every post I've removed used lags and when I spun them out they all broke a half inch into the wood due to corrosion. Scary! My posts will outlast me and the deck.
Thank you for your comment.
Notching a 4x4 halfway will reduce it strength by 70%.
If you like the look and you don't pull a permit or you think you don't have an inspection for that that's up to you.
Never understood, why do more work (notching) to make it weaker.
Thank you for your comment.
The code here for residential deck posts is to resist 200lbs lateral force. My posts exceed that.
Never notch but it looks good but I need the 4x4 strength ...grandkids climb lol
Thank you for your comment.
I would put the post inside the rim ,then box it in with glue and screws
he has a tripled up rim in part 8 you can see it way over kill. my building Inspector won't allow outside mounted railing post "have to be boxed" that was a "IBC" code change for CT. stair post have to be on a footing with strong ties and 18" in front of step for a landing
@@allenmason1098 This video should come with a warning that the design is not IBC compliant and this advice should never be followed.
No. Do not notch railing posts to go on the outside of the rim joist. This cuts the strength of the post in half.
Thank you for your comment.
Always check your local building codes before starting any building project.
wish I had watched this first. I predrilled my post but not the joist at the smaller size. I had 2 galvanized bolts break half way or almost tight and had to fight like hell to get them out. One broke right at the joist, so there was not recovering it. I was not happy. I don't think my kids have ever heard me swear more. 37 degrees out here and can't get it done because of a dumb mistake.
Thanks for your comment.
Breaking bolts or screws is a curse that makes us curse. It's normal, part of the job. Wait and see what happens when you break your thumbnail by accidentally hitting it with a hammer. Darn! Double darn! $%#@!!!
See you don’t have to have name brand tools to build something nice and have quality work.
Thank you for your nice comment.
Code will not let us notch posts here.
Thank you for your comment.
You should always check local building codes before any building project.
Yep
Nope
Any reason to not mount the posts on top of the decking? In other words, only cutting out the overhang portion of the decking to fit the post? I’m thinking that will be a little easier for me. 🤔
Thank you for your question.
I've done deck posts both ways before, but my Mrs likes the look of this one.
The county inspector approved it and this method passed the lateral load test, a little over 200lbs.
Loved your video I'am currently attempting to do the corner post. Post is notched out correctly however I'am having hard time marking out the corner of the deck any suggestions? I find any videos on cutting out the deck corner for a notched post. Thank you!!
Thank you for your comment.
I believe if you continue to watch this video you'll see how to prepare the corner of the deck for the notched post: 03:07
@@BasaPete Ok thank you
FYI....BARK UP! Been doing it for 30 years. Bark Down = Cupping.
Thank you.
Lag screws into the house framing without putting in proximal peering is disaster. Too many aging decks have collapsed injuring or causing fatalities when large groups gather n the deck. Lag screws always loosen secondary to wood movement, moisture changes and vibration secondary to loading from foot traffic. Reinforcement should be identical to flooring framing in the house itself. Rail uprights should be bolted through not lagged and 4x4 or 8 x8 uprights should have a galvanized bottom plate where they sit on concrete to prevent wicking.
Thank you for your advice.
Curious if you have ever tried drilling straight through both pieces with the smaller 1/4" for the threads first and then enlarging the hole to 3/8" for the shank? Just don't try it with a spade bit ;-)
Thanks for the question.
My drill bits aren't long enough to drill through both pieces. But I think it would be better if I could.
Appreciate the reply.
I drill with smaller bit all the way first then use larger to widen the through hole. But meh, whatever works. As a side note, Canadian eh? I see Mastercraft. Different areas, different codes.
Thanks for the comment. My bits aren't long enough to do that for a 4-inch lag bolt. Canadian, yea...
3/8” lag screw into the end-grain of the 1 3/4” of my I’m joist doesn’t seem very strong.
Thank you for your comment.
That corner post greatly exceeds 200 foot-pounds of lateral pressure.
Lag screws into the end grain?
Thank you for your good question.
Lag bolts into end-grain only would be a problem, especially if no railings were there for extra support.
Lag bolts into cross-grain and end-grain, no problem, especially with railings.
Dude, you are totally not to code. Notching posts turns a 4x4 into a 2x4, lag screws (undersized at that), no backup blocking, and more, it's a DIY nightmare for building inspectors. Yes, that was the OLD way, please, Please learn how to do it the RIGHT way.
Thank you for your comment.
Fortunately, here in this county, the old way is still the right way.
Here in Pennsylvania i used to notch all my posts. New codes make it illegal now.
I wonder if a Simpson Strong-Tie 4" angle bracket placed on the deck side of a notched 4X4 post would pass inspection?
@@BasaPete it's really the notching itself that's a problem. In effect it makes the 4x4 closer to the strength of a 2x4. The newer codes are very focused on resisting lateral outward forces from somebody leaning on the railing from on top of the deck. This video does a good job of showing the options for meeting the new codes for guardrail support attachment ua-cam.com/video/lTRquLcL6Jo/v-deo.html
@@majahanson311 Thank you for the video link. It's very helpful.
holy hackabilly!
I don't get the religious connection. Chuckle, chuckle.
Is it better to sit a notched post on the deck floor or beam?
Thank you for the question.
I like sitting the posts on the deck boards, makes for a nice and neat job, but sitting it directly on the beam will work also.
@@BasaPete thank you. I hear both sides but I like the neatness of sitting on the board.
Question. My deck is 16 x 16. Is 8ft to a baluster post to long of a stretch to be structurally safe?
Thanks for the question.
8 feet between posts is not too long, as long as you use strong fasteners.
Thank you. My first deck. Quite a bit of “learning experiences” along the way. Lol.
@@travismarshall658 Good luck, have fun and whatever you do, don't panic. Ha!Ha!
Please make sure you specify code regs for these builds though....
Thanks for your comment.
The problem, there are different codes in different regions, too many to specify.
👍
Hey there. I'm in Ontario and my 14' X 20' deck is only approx 12-18" high off ground. Was thinking about a railing just down each end thne turned in 2' on each end on the long side for aesthetics. Would notching the posts be ok for my situation?
With your deck only 12" - 18" above ground notching shouldn't be a problem. However, you should check with your local building inspector to be sure.
@@BasaPete thanks. I have a place nearby where I can get 5x5 posts (actual 5") maybe I'll use those. 6x6 will look too big
@@EYECOMEINPEACE 5x5 would look good. Just make sure that the point of attachment (rim joist or beam) is not a single plank. Double or triple planks would be fine.
@@EYECOMEINPEACE Yeah. Sizing the posts so they will look more uniform to the size of a deck is a good idea. I have a 14 X 24 that's 10ft off the ground. I went with 6 X 6's and they seem to fit the deck pretty well. If they were on a small deck they would look out of place, like over-engineering.
How do you replace old post with a new one
Thank you for your question.
It is simple, just remove the old post and copy it the best you can. I've done this many times. If you can keep the old post intact it makes the job much easier.
@@BasaPete thank you
Just wondering why not mitre the decking going around the house corner. I do like butt joints
Thank you for your question.
My wife likes the look of the zig-zag pattern.
@@BasaPete I’m building a 12x48 and wrapping the corner and going 8x12. I might go for the same zig zag look.
@@dan5683 Make sure to fasten the butt-ends of the zig-zags to the joists, even if you have to use an extra joist. If not, the butt-ends of the deck boards will curl up. Several of mine curled, so I nailed a piece of 2"x6" under the curled butt-end and forced it down into place with a deck screw.
One side is 12’ and one side is 10. How will that work with mitre ? Or would stagger work better?
@@dan5683 12' or 10', it doesn't matter. It will still be a 45 degree angle.
Notching those 4x4s make them like 2x4s...NOT SAFE
Thanks for your comment. Yes, I agree that a 4x4 is much stronger than a 2X4. But according to my 35 years experience, these posts are very safe.
What are you ceiling the cuts with?
Cut-N-Seal, sold at most building supply stores.
Notching posts is no longer permitted in most state codes.
Thanks for the comment.
Reminder to always check your local building codes before starting any project.
The post will not be as strong as one coming from the ground.
Thank you for your comment.
Cannot notch rail posts its against code...If I did that I would fail inspection every time plus its very unsafe as your essenually using a 2x4 to bear the forces. Looks nice but not code compliant..Read DCA6..
I appreciate what you're saying, and building code DCA 6, page 19, figure 24 backs up your statement. However, there's also a Concentrated Load Test, which states: The top rail of a deck must be capable of holding a horizontal load of 200 lbs of force applied to the mid-span of the railing and on top of a post. I exceeded that force by 25lbs, the railing bend a little, but there was no sound of wood cracking. My only concern is the #8 screws that I used to toenail the railing to the post. I may replace them with #10s.
Unfortunatley it does not matter what the top rail can withstand, you cannot notch rail post at the attachment point to deck as you have done, it would fail every time, at one time that was acceptable but not any more ..so its moot that notch makes it a code violation, I am not saying your work is bad it looks great ! I am just saying a Lic contractor doing that for a customer with a building permit would fail inspection and it would be a costly fix ! So not a persona attack at all, you do nice work ! but that is a code violation in this day and age. As for the railing they simpson makes brackets for those and no toe nailing or screwing. All the best !
@@billynolanjr2266 Thank you for bringing up this post notching issue. Certainly, anyone building a deck should first consult with his or her local building inspector. Here where I live we have two building codes:
1st - The National Building Code of Canada, which applies to government, big business, etc… and new residential construction cover by Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation. Under the National Building Code, there is no mention of the post notch, but I assume it is not allowed; they are a very fussy bunch.
2nd - The Local Building Code for Residential Construction not covered by CMHC. Our local building inspectors are more commonsense on some things, but very strict on others. Example: My notch is ok as long as it stands up to the force test, but the gap between the balusters cannot exceed 4", not even by 1/4".
Thanks for the heads-up on the Simpson Brackets.
@@BasaPete lol ok your not even in the USA ...Guess it wouldent matter at all, I have no idea what the Canadian building codes are are at different country ! DCA6 wouldent even apply to you in Canada then, Its still a good guide on how to build a deck but isnt legal in canada .
@@billynolanjr2266 Your DCA building standards are very good. Anyone building a new home or even a deck on either side of the border would be adviced to read them. There's a lot of good information there and very detailed.
3/8, 9/32
your hand is two inches from the blade!
Yes, always be careful when handling power tools.
The post notching method is not an acceptable method of attaching posts.
Thank you for your comment.
Here in our county, notched posts are acceptable as long as they pass the lateral force test of 200 pounds.
Can't believe you took 4x4 post and made it 2x4 post that's essenine. You just weaken the post big time
Thank you for your comment.
My posts can withstand 200 lbs of lateral pressure.
You can always reinforce the posts with angle iron if you're not comfortable with the notch.
Do not install your guard rail posts like the old fool is demonstrating.
It is not code ANYWHERE to notch a rail post and is specifically forbidden in the new International Residential Building Code. 3/8" lag bolts are not code either. The new codes are prescriptive and 3/8 lags are illegal and dangerous. At least 1/2 inch through bolts are required with the 4X4s on the INSIDE of the rim joists also blocked and through bolted to at least one joist as well.
This deck rail is a dangerous liability to have on your property..
Don't be stupid.
This video should be re-titled "How NOT to install deck rail Posts.
Dangerous and illegal This is a good video for demonstrating what NOT to do.
Guard rail posts should NEVER be notched or bolted to the outside of the rim joist.
Ridiculously bad advice.
Our local building inspector okayed the railing for residential use. It withstood over 200 lbs of lateral pressure.
We have stronger regulations for public use patios, such as restaurants and bars.
@@BasaPete You are lying. The International Residential Building Code specifically prescribes that safety guard rail posts not be attached in this manner...especially the part where you split part of the post away to half its width right at the point where it needs to be the strongest to resist splitting from outward lateral loads
.Even if the posts were made of solid oak, bolting them to the outside of the rim joist as you have done will tear the rim away from the rest of the frame and rotate it outwards and down with a 200 pound outward lateral load at the top of the post.
Physics in your little town are no different than they are anywhere else.
We know that what you describe happened with your supposed building inspector is physically impossible.
Now come clean and stop lying.
@@williardbillmore5713 Comments and criticism are welcome on my UA-cam channel, but personal attacks are not. I don't take it kindly to be called a liar.
According to our municipality building engineer, and I quote: "Guardrail strength requirements: The International Building Code mandates that guardrails must be able to sustain a 200-pound force at the mid-span between posts, without excessive deflective."
@@BasaPete If you don't like being called out as a liar, then stop lying about this deck passing a building code inspection.
You and I both know that it could not and did not.
This is a demonstration of very poor substandard and sub code carpentry.
For the sake of safety DO NOT FOLLOW THIS FOOLS ADVICE IT IS DANGEROUS!
Whoa - code or not - so much wrong here. Railing posts on top of the decking? Held in with just lag screws? At a span of slightly over 6'? I hope they never have a crowd over and a couple of people are leaning slightly against that railing. It might feel solid to you at the completion of the job, but no way that holds up over time and use.
Thank you for your comment.
The original deck railing, similar to this one, lasted 30 years and I used untreated lumber.
However, if I had built this deck for public gatherings I would change several things including the railings and steps.
@@BasaPete ua-cam.com/video/lTRquLcL6Jo/v-deo.html
Notching deck posts goes against IRC code that is observed ALL OVER THE WORLD.
Why would anyone want to reduce a 4X4 post to a 2X4 at the exact point where it needs to be the strongest??
These rail posts will never pass code inspection.
Splitting guard rail posts like this is the dumbest carpentry tip I have ever witnessed.
Thank you for your comment.
The code here for residential deck posts is to resist 200lbs lateral force. My posts exceed that.