How To Spilce An End Loop In Hollow Core Spectra Fishing Line

Daho Loop Splicing needles have many uses when spectra rigging. Making loops, windows or opening the "weave" these needles are a must. Based on the old Dacron splicing needles, the Reverse Latch Needle creates loops and splices with speed and efficiency.
www.tunafishtac...
Manufacturer: DaHo

[@PanyingPilot]

I will use this method to make end loops for kite line. I appreciate your clear instruction.

[@bson777]

Love this connection for wind ons. Been 100 percent for big bluefin. 0 failures

[@ParagliderServiceUSA]

Great method, this is my new "go to splice" for the end loops on my paraglider's dyneema lines. I love the part about being able to adjust the size of the loop. Of course, our splices are only 10 mm long, so, as secure as this method is all by itself, we still sew a 1" stitch (bonded polyester thread) down the center of the splice.

[@crustybear]

Thinking about the topology of the line in this video made my head explode.

[@brendanwoerner3352]

Drinking game every time he says spectra!

[@patrickkelly8095]

Why create the loop? How does it work?

[@maxscmidt3857]

nice tecnique, but loop to loop is still weaker, especially in a long fight, going thru the guides over and over again than just splicing two hollow lines, hollow and solid or hollow and mono together, I'll use this when I'm fishing with hollowleader that's stronger than my mainline to an swivel, but for other situations it's better and safer to go no-loop-at-all! especially if you're an mad man like me fishing 100lbs of drag stand up, "free hand" and up to 200lbs with a Harness that is tied to something heavy, or with some buddys holding me. A+ for the tecnique, B- for using Loop to Loop.

[@amritsingh5054]

What are fishing for at 100lbs of Drag

[@maxschmidt9461]

@@amritsingh5054 hey, this is my new account, old one got hacked... You can use 100lbs of drag for quiet a few fish, mostly giant sharks, rays and goliath grouper but even for huge tuna(with a thick wire circle hook and even then only for giants or you'll pull hooks, same for marlin) and also when tryin' to get Warsaw and trophy amberjack away from structure you'll need such stoppin' power, in general for all big fish that you have to break and/or pull away from structure you need tA LOT of drag, much more than most fisherman or reels can support, but with the right tackle and technique it's not a problem, just a workout.

[@currenwiggin8982]

@@maxschmidt9461 I'm spooling mg 130, and with his method even still the loop occasionally slips, I'm looking for a wind on leader type of loop that doesn't slip.

[@maxschmidt9461]

@@currenwiggin8982 if you want it 100 safe, do a bit of a longer splice section, either this method or simply insert it the classic way, then take some lighter braid, to make it easier use a netting needle, and simply create a about two inch section of half-hitches over the connection, it should prevent slippage, but even more it will prevent the splice from slowly workin' itself open what sometimes happens.

[@maxschmidt9461]

@@currenwiggin8982 I personally don't use loop to loop, only hollow to hollow splices, I test what the minimum length for my line is (usually 3-4 inches) then take 2-3 times of that for the actual connection. Taper the end of the heavier line and you have 90-99% of the actual line strength. If you're wind on's are much heavier than your mainline, downsize the end to hollow core one size bigger than what's on your reel (by hollow to hollow splices on the end of your WOL that goes to your mainline) taper the end and then splice it to your mainline. If you really want loop to loop go with it, but never ever go past 30-50% line strength, especially in a long fight cause loop to loop tends to slowly get weaker, same for loop to swivel, just put the line through once and use a thimble, at least with mono. I have tested lines to their exhaustion, like 60lb mono at 30pb of drag until it broke, same with other sizes and different braids. The by far strongest, most reliable braid I ever used is the Cortland C-16 hollow core, except for the 80lb, whilch is the same capacity as 100lb JB, but 100 JB is the better choice. The 100lb Cortland is as strong as 130lb JB, thicker than 100lb JB, but much thinner than 130jb. The 130lb Cortland is just, is at all, a touch thicker than 130 JB, but stronger than the 200lb JB. 200lb JB survives even several load cycles at 200lb of drag and is stronger than some other 300lb lines. 300lb JB is stronger than 200lb Cortland, but the 300lb Cortland, which is thinner and much nicer to splice than 300lb JB is almost as strong as 500lb JB.
Hope I could help and I didn't make you loose your eyesight by readin' half a novel 😅

[@brendanwoerner3352]

That is a pain in the ass just go regular splice at that point