I’ve always said measure before sanding or compounding. The vertical door sill is usually the thinnest on most cars. I use that as a benchmark. That car was all over the board. Ballpark primer is usually around 1.0-1.5 mils same for base coat another 1.0-1.5 mils and the clear runs around 2.0+ mils. Bigger issue is most of the UV protection is towards the top of the clear coat layer. Remove too much of that and you’ll be looking at a re-paint inside a couple years. That little gauge works pretty well.Paint gauges aren’t the end all be all tools but they sure help in diagnosing a cars paint.
@ Raplh. Most 2 stage corrections will remove the UV part of the clear. To keep it safe, pick up a Griot's 8mm, finishing polish, foam finishing pad and call it a day. Point being, if this were the case, most pro detail shops wouldn't be in business.
Brewinz you make a good point but not sure I totally agree. Hard to say how much clear is removed with a 2 stage correction. Could be .2 mils or could be a lot more. UV is throughout the entire clear with the majority towards the top. Then there are different quality clears. Just too many variables to say a 2 or 3 stage correction will ruin the UV protection. My point was to educate some of the DIYers so as not to grind away on clear without giving it some thought, similar to what Brian was suggesting. As for most pro detail shops I really don’t know, some I know are very careful about the clear coat others not so much. Also remember once clear is compromised it still takes a couple years for it to cloud up and start flaking.
This is why when I fix paint for people I really try to talk them out of going after all those really deep scratches. Especially on a daily driver. A one or 2 step correction with foam pads is gonna be a 99% improvement and it’s not ripping off a ton of clear coat.
Great info! Thanks for sharing. Just goes to show you can't paint correct blindly. This tool is basically a must to make an informed decision on the best steps to paint correct.
don't forget to calibrate it away from mobile phones, big tvs and non metal tables, as they are interfere with the magnetic fields around and might show you wrong measurements! (also temp and humidity alters the final measurements) . By the way if you measure after the correction without cool down the panel might also show you wrong , Nice video Brian!
Great tutorial Brian! Just got my gauge today and this just perfect to help me get going! Going to be low to mid 60’s herein Amelia Island tomorrow! Thanks and take care.
Woo Hooo! I've been waiting for you to touch on paint thickness gauges! Excellent demo and a great video! Ill be watching for the DelFesko video in the future! Thanks again Brian you RAWK!!! Whoops I forgot to ask...is there an online resource that you know of that has outline templates of different makes and models of cars so we can record the measurements on paper?
Thank you for the demo! Looking forward to seeing the difference with the professional reader. As an enthusiast it’s interesting to see how much is taken off per step.
This means I only get to compound my daily driver once. Thanks for the info. I’ve only used finishing polish on it so far to clean/prep before sealant application.
Funny how the reading was all over the place on different panels, i understand the car was 20yrs old..so it did have a life loll! Thank You so much for tutorial , apx 0.1 mil per compound stages apx.. [ballpark] gives a good idea for daily drivers corections. like you said..Be nice with the clear coat !! ;-)
Thanks again Brian for a educational video you are sharing to us. Please try & review the Optimun Clear Coat Restorer. If ever, someone is going to bring a vehicle for repair. Thanks
Great video Brian, I have been thinking of picking up a paint gauge after burning through when wet sanding a few edges. I would really like to find one of those Delfasco testers....perhaps one that fell off the back of a truck (with the cost for a tester in the thousands). The information you provided in this video is very useful. It would be great if you could include this process in your future wet sanding videos so that we can gain some additional knowledge based on your experience and different situations as they come in. I am a big fan of your work and channel. Doug
Awesome video Brian. I think every "professional" detailer that does paint correction should have a device like this. Know the ins and outs before just attacking the clearcoat. Btw was that a maxshine rotary you were using during the 3 step?
Brain, is there an online source that you are aware of that lists the clear coat thicknesses of most makes and modes of cars that can be used to reference?
so i bought this little gadget and it works like a champ !! now i have a question , did you run into parts that the measurement was not able to display and you get 3 lines across the screen ?? my entire hood and front q-panels it will not measure out , just 3 lines after the beep . no issues on other panel just the front stuff ..
Hi Brian, For people like me with not that much knowledge pertaining to vehicle clearcoat depths and hardnesses, can you suggest a general chart somewhere i can go to to help out? Thanks and great video !
Is the plastic wrap supposed to be peeled off the metal test strip for calibration? Please show how far you can polish with Sonax with the thickness gauge
Thank you for the video, I have a question, if you do a compound stage but then not a polish stage, is that a 1 step? Or should u always polish after compounding? Thanks!
Great video, but I am confused. You started at 4.3 mil. With a 1 step, you are at 4.2. Now you go with a 2 step and remove more clear, and with a 3 step, you remove even more. But your starting point is not 4.3 mil on each test, you starting is reduced as you go along. The most positive part of all this, is the PTG, which can be purchased for $140. Even if you own 3-5 cars in a household, and a few polishers, etc., you must have one. If you plan on keeping a vehicle for 10 years, plus - You must protect the clear. How many certified vehicles go through the correcting stage where a lot of clear is removed. I had a PDR friend come over. A 99 vehicles that was repainted had 13 mils of paint, and the roof only 6.5 of paint. They laid it on thick. The 16 Avalon was at around 6.5 mils (pretty impressive for a Toyota, the Mazda also had thick paint, around 5.5-6.5, while the Subaru sports car only had 4.5 on the aluminum hood, and 5.5 around everywhere else. None of the cars (outside painted car) have ever been corrected, maybe a light cleaner polish/wax at most twice a year with light pressure. The cars are washed carefully and detail waxes applied as well. At this point, I will be purchasing a PTG as recommended.
I was wondering if you clean rubber door trim or trim bye window just use apc or onr then if I dress it should I bother buying 303 comes in a shoe shine bottle or just use regular 303 is the same stuff different bottle ?
The safety data sheets show different ingredients for the regular 303 and the one in a shoe shine bottle. I don't know if the protection varies much though.
I'm looking at the Defelsko line of positectors. Do I go with the 200 or the 600? They are expensive for sure. I can afford one, but I'd rather not invest that much capital in one tool. Trying to find a facsimile at a more reasonable price. Thanks
i have a question. Lets say we correct the paint with cut compound and finish and everything is perfect in that paint work but the gauge meter is saying that we have 2,5 thickness. Is it better to put a fresh clear coat 2 layers on the paint corrected areas? Then of course to cut and finish with polysher. Is that good or bad idea?
What is the highest reading from factory paint ? How accurate Is this paint gauge ? I just used it for the first time and it is weird and doesn’t measure the plastic bumpers ? Are you sure it won’t scratch the paint ?
Brian I know different vehicles all vary. Is there a way I can find out what the depth would be at brand new? Would a body shop know. I have an upcoming detail with a correction that has been polished before. Chevy 1500 pick up truck. Any advise?
What's your bottom line measurement in terms of mils? For instance, if a car came in with 3.5mils would you be hesitant to go below that number? I figure that you don't want go below 3 mils but I'm not entirely sure.The roof of my car is 4.1 mils so should i be careful in taking of .1-.2 mils there?
Hello Brian. I just bought the elpidan E 7000 I'm having difficulty calibrating it. I just want it for measuring paint on cars. There is 3 different calibration options. Do I need to all of them or just one?
Brian, Im having a problem with my paint thickness gauge, it cannot read paint thickness on Fe substrate but it works on nFe substrate. Im hoping you can help.
Excellent as always. Being a newbie at this I bought a much more expensive unit that does exactly the same thing. Only if you step up to big bucks do you get a gauge to separate layers. Thanks again for the instruction
Another great informative video! I know technology has come a long way in 30yrs but the guy who did a paint correction and ceramic coating on my 1989 mustang said it had thicker coating then new cars. Could this be true? Mine ranged from over 200 microns to 140 microns. Have know idea if this is good or bad. But he did call me out to my garage to tell me he had to change his approach on my spoiler.
Not the coating, just the factory paint and clear. He may have had a gauge that read different or deeper but took several measurements. If I lived close to PA it’d be at Apex immediately.
Great information! I need to buy one of these but haven’t been sure which one and they can be quite pricey as you know. I have been looking at some made by FLIR they cost between $200-$300. Have you heard of them?
I thought I meassured wrong when I see an average of 3 mills on a brand new 202 KIA Soul. Any idea how thick they put on the clear coat? Almost no space for a nice 2 stage correction.
Devide the reading by 3 or take a mesurement from the door jam then compare with car body although not sur if that gives you the clear thickness or not
@@apexdetail85 yup thx. and i have a following question: if we paint the aluminum or the stainless steel calibration pieces, will the reading still 0.0?
I will also cover the Defelsko Positector 200. A bit more...no a hell of a lot more expensive. But less guess work will be involved.
I’ve always said measure before sanding or compounding. The vertical door sill is usually the thinnest on most cars. I use that as a benchmark. That car was all over the board. Ballpark primer is usually around 1.0-1.5 mils same for base coat another 1.0-1.5 mils and the clear runs around 2.0+ mils. Bigger issue is most of the UV protection is towards the top of the clear coat layer. Remove too much of that and you’ll be looking at a re-paint inside a couple years. That little gauge works pretty well.Paint gauges aren’t the end all be all tools but they sure help in diagnosing a cars paint.
Fantastic Post Ralph...I appreciate the feedback.
Apex Detail Likewise Brian you really do great reviews and cover a variety of products and tools. Keep up the great work its appreciated.
@ Raplh. Most 2 stage corrections will remove the UV part of the clear. To keep it safe, pick up a Griot's 8mm, finishing polish, foam finishing pad and call it a day. Point being, if this were the case, most pro detail shops wouldn't be in business.
Brewinz you make a good point but not sure I totally agree. Hard to say how much clear is removed with a 2 stage correction. Could be .2 mils or could be a lot more. UV is throughout the entire clear with the majority towards the top. Then there are different quality clears. Just too many variables to say a 2 or 3 stage correction will ruin the UV protection. My point was to educate some of the DIYers so as not to grind away on clear without giving it some thought, similar to what Brian was suggesting. As for most pro detail shops I really don’t know, some I know are very careful about the clear coat others not so much. Also remember once clear is compromised it still takes a couple years for it to cloud up and start flaking.
The more you teach and share the more I realize how little I know. 🤯
Appreciate your expertise and professionalism.
Brian that was great because it showed the actual amount of removal for different processes.
This is why when I fix paint for people I really try to talk them out of going after all those really deep scratches. Especially on a daily driver. A one or 2 step correction with foam pads is gonna be a 99% improvement and it’s not ripping off a ton of clear coat.
That's what I feel safe doing.
And I feel it yields the best results for the best price
Finally a very informative video on paint depth gauges and how much can get removed during the process. Thanks B great job!
Happy if it helps!!
You always pack tons of great info in your videos! Love it!
Thanks Duke!!
Great info! Thanks for sharing. Just goes to show you can't paint correct blindly. This tool is basically a must to make an informed decision on the best steps to paint correct.
don't forget to calibrate it away from mobile phones, big tvs and non metal tables, as they are interfere with the magnetic fields around and might show you wrong measurements! (also temp and humidity alters the final measurements) . By the way if you measure after the correction without cool down the panel might also show you wrong , Nice video Brian!
Absolutely...great tip.
Great tutorial Brian! Just got my gauge today and this just perfect to help me get going! Going to be low to mid 60’s herein Amelia Island tomorrow! Thanks and take care.
Excellent video with very good information! Thank you for sharing!
My pleasure!!
Woo Hooo! I've been waiting for you to touch on paint thickness gauges! Excellent demo and a great video! Ill be watching for the DelFesko video in the future! Thanks again Brian you RAWK!!!
Whoops I forgot to ask...is there an online resource that you know of that has outline templates of different makes and models of cars so we can record the measurements on paper?
A bunch have attempted to start one...but never got very far with it.
Informative is an understatement. Thank you for all the excellent videos.
Thanks Mike!!
BTW this video was super helpful. I hope u continue stuff like this!
Thank you for the demo! Looking forward to seeing the difference with the professional reader. As an enthusiast it’s interesting to see how much is taken off per step.
Tells you you get one chance to compound or wet sand factory clear.
Another great video. Very informative.
Thanks. 👍
Awesome video and demonstration.!!
Thanks James!! Much appreciated!
This means I only get to compound my daily driver once. Thanks for the info. I’ve only used finishing polish on it so far to clean/prep before sealant application.
Yes...compound or wet sand once.
This is a great tool to have.Now I want to measure my car. I know mine is new but it’s still interesting.Thanks ✊
Indeed. A great tool to add after all essentials are locked in.
Funny how the reading was all over the place on different panels, i understand the car was 20yrs old..so it did have a life loll! Thank You so much for tutorial , apx 0.1 mil per compound stages apx.. [ballpark] gives a good idea for daily drivers corections. like you said..Be nice with the clear coat !! ;-)
It has had a rough life...until now.
Thanks for this video. It is nice to have some idea about this subject.
I will cover it more in upcoming videos.
Thanks again Brian for a educational video you are sharing to us. Please try & review the Optimun Clear Coat Restorer. If ever, someone is going to bring a vehicle for repair. Thanks
I have it and in the middle of testing it as we speak.
Great video Brian, I have been thinking of picking up a paint gauge after burning through when wet sanding a few edges. I would really like to find one of those Delfasco testers....perhaps one that fell off the back of a truck (with the cost for a tester in the thousands). The information you provided in this video is very useful. It would be great if you could include this process in your future wet sanding videos so that we can gain some additional knowledge based on your experience and different situations as they come in.
I am a big fan of your work and channel.
Doug
Absolutely...I will show how much is removed during the wet sanding process.
this info is gold
Awesome video Brian. I think every "professional" detailer that does paint correction should have a device like this. Know the ins and outs before just attacking the clearcoat. Btw was that a maxshine rotary you were using during the 3 step?
It sure was...a vid showcasing it is now out.
How many mils does a ceramic coating normally add?
Two tenths of a mil on average.
Brain, is there an online source that you are aware of that lists the clear coat thicknesses of most makes and modes of cars that can be used to reference?
There have been many attempts...but I have never come across a finished chart.
w/o knowing the history of car how do u know where u should b besides door jambs?🍻🍻
so i bought this little gadget and it works like a champ !! now i have a question , did you run into parts that the measurement was not able to display and you get 3 lines across the screen ?? my entire hood and front q-panels it will not measure out , just 3 lines after the beep . no issues on other panel just the front stuff ..
Is there a published list of depth ranges for each year, make and model?
A few attempts were made...but never completed...if I had the time, I would make one.
Hi Brian, For people like me with not that much knowledge pertaining to vehicle clearcoat depths and hardnesses, can you suggest a general chart somewhere i can go to to help out? Thanks and great video !
Great video thanks boss
Is the plastic wrap supposed to be peeled off the metal test strip for calibration? Please show how far you can polish with Sonax with the thickness gauge
Thank you for the video, I have a question, if you do a compound stage but then not a polish stage, is that a 1 step? Or should u always polish after compounding? Thanks!
Great video, but I am confused. You started at 4.3 mil. With a 1 step, you are at 4.2. Now you go with a 2 step and remove more clear, and with a 3 step, you remove even more. But your starting point is not 4.3 mil on each test, you starting is reduced as you go along. The most positive part of all this, is the PTG, which can be purchased for $140. Even if you own 3-5 cars in a household, and a few polishers, etc., you must have one. If you plan on keeping a vehicle for 10 years, plus - You must protect the clear. How many certified vehicles go through the correcting stage where a lot of clear is removed.
I had a PDR friend come over. A 99 vehicles that was repainted had 13 mils of paint, and the roof only 6.5 of paint. They laid it on thick. The 16 Avalon was at around 6.5 mils (pretty impressive for a Toyota, the Mazda also had thick paint, around 5.5-6.5, while the Subaru sports car only had 4.5 on the aluminum hood, and 5.5 around everywhere else. None of the cars (outside painted car) have ever been corrected, maybe a light cleaner polish/wax at most twice a year with light pressure. The cars are washed carefully and detail waxes applied as well.
At this point, I will be purchasing a PTG as recommended.
I was wondering if you clean rubber door trim or trim bye window just use apc or onr then if I dress it should I bother buying 303 comes in a shoe shine bottle or just use regular 303 is the same stuff different bottle ?
I would just pick up the regular 303.
The safety data sheets show different ingredients for the regular 303 and the one in a shoe shine bottle. I don't know if the protection varies much though.
Hi Brian, what number on the paint gauge do you not polish? Cheers, DC
great video again buddy. long time coming 4 this video.🍻🍻
Absolutely!!
Great info! Not finished with the Bimmer?
Soon...waiting on a few pieces.
Awesome Brian. Optimum just came out with a clear coat restorer. Review coming soon?
I have it. Testing it as we speak.
Awesome
I'm looking at the Defelsko line of positectors. Do I go with the 200 or the 600? They are expensive for sure.
I can afford one, but I'd rather not invest that much capital in one tool. Trying to find a facsimile at a more reasonable price. Thanks
i have a question. Lets say we correct the paint with cut compound and finish and everything is perfect in that paint work but the gauge meter is saying that we have 2,5 thickness. Is it better to put a fresh clear coat 2 layers on the paint corrected areas? Then of course to cut and finish with polysher. Is that good or bad idea?
What is the highest reading from factory paint ? How accurate Is this paint gauge ? I just used it for the first time and it is weird and doesn’t measure the plastic bumpers ? Are you sure it won’t scratch the paint ?
Brian I know different vehicles all vary. Is there a way I can find out what the depth would be at brand new? Would a body shop know. I have an upcoming detail with a correction that has been polished before. Chevy 1500 pick up truck. Any advise?
Great vid... what rotary were you using at the end?
MaxShine M550
What's your bottom line measurement in terms of mils? For instance, if a car came in with 3.5mils would you be hesitant to go below that number? I figure that you don't want go below 3 mils but I'm not entirely sure.The roof of my car is 4.1 mils so should i be careful in taking of .1-.2 mils there?
Hello Brian. I just bought the elpidan E 7000 I'm having difficulty calibrating it. I just want it for measuring paint on cars. There is 3 different calibration options. Do I need to all of them or just one?
Brian, Im having a problem with my paint thickness gauge, it cannot read paint thickness on Fe substrate but it works on nFe substrate. Im hoping you can help.
Do you find the tool paint thickness gauge being useful in the Autobody repair industry? Thoughts on this? I’ve never seen one before
How could the panel measure 1.6? I’m having trouble calibrating
Excellent as always. Being a newbie at this I bought a much more expensive unit that does exactly the same thing. Only if you step up to big bucks do you get a gauge to separate layers. Thanks again for the instruction
Yeah...its a shame it is so pricey.
Do you reccomend this gauge for someone getting into car detailing?
Like in carpentry, measure twice cut once 😆
Hahaha....exactly!!
Another great vid! Just a quick question, is that the new maxshine mini-rotary polisher? How do you find it? Any possible review for the unit?
It is....Just published a video on it. Solid unit.
Good Stuff!!
Thanks!
Brian, with this tool could you another video comparing sanding grits?
Absolutely, I will do them once I showcase the Defelsko.
Another great informative video! I know technology has come a long way in 30yrs but the guy who did a paint correction and ceramic coating on my 1989 mustang said it had thicker coating then new cars. Could this be true? Mine ranged from over 200 microns to 140 microns. Have know idea if this is good or bad. But he did call me out to my garage to tell me he had to change his approach on my spoiler.
question first...is that reading for the clear and coating together?
Not the coating, just the factory paint and clear. He may have had a gauge that read different or deeper but took several measurements. If I lived close to PA it’d be at Apex immediately.
Hi what would be a normal reading of a Saab 9 5 2011? Thanks
Great information! I need to buy one of these but haven’t been sure which one and they can be quite pricey as you know. I have been looking at some made by FLIR they cost between $200-$300. Have you heard of them?
Defelsko makes a fantastic meter as well...but you will pay handsomely for it.
The panel was soft or hard clear coat?
Moderate...GM compact.
Can this work in single stage paint?
I thought I meassured wrong when I see an average of 3 mills on a brand new 202 KIA Soul. Any idea how thick they put on the clear coat? Almost no space for a nice 2 stage correction.
Devide the reading by 3 or take a mesurement from the door jam then compare with car body although not sur if that gives you the clear thickness or not
Exactly what I am looking for, thx!
To put it a nut shell...this can help you keep track of the amount of clear is being removed during correction.
@@apexdetail85 yup thx.
and i have a following question:
if we paint the aluminum or the stainless steel calibration pieces, will the reading still 0.0?
Did I see the Maxshine pro rotary you were using there Sir
You sure did!!
Apex Detail is there a review coming? I have been eye balling it for my first rotary
Apex Detail never mind just saw that you put out that video today
Has anyone tested the 40 to 60 dollar units??
Link is not working can you fix?
Will this work on a single stage metal paint?
As long as the base material is steel or aluminium it will give you the readings of all layers
I'm not sure if i'd call $150 "affordable". Lots of gauges for far less that can do what this does.
Anyone have a new link to this machine or one like it.
Still working on the 323ci?
Almost finished.
Fucking kidding me? 140 dollars?