[Lesson] Slab! Tomoa Narasaki's 5 Points!
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- Tomoa Narasaki is well know for the master of coordination and dynamic moves. However, he is also a perfect skilled slab climber. He climbed most of slab problems in World Cups. Here is his tips!!
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Hi, we are Tomoa / Akiyo / Ikedai !!
We want to share the fun climbing world.
Technics, skills and secrets to top your problems!!
We wish you to be more interested in climbing.
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・Narasaki Tomoa
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・Noguchi Akiyo
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・Yudai Ikeda
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◆◆ English subtitle by FreiHeit ◆◆
![[Lesson] Tomoa Narasaki How To Hold Slopers !](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7gXJap42ZP8/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Lesson] Tomoa Narasaki How To Hold Slopers !](/img/tr.png)
![[Maximising Your Reach!] Top 4 Tips by Tomoa Narasaki👨🏻🏫](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DCJr_3gb52E/mqdefault.jpg)
This are the best slab tips I have ever gotten, thank you Tomoa.
And huge thanks to FreiHeit for subtitles! I could never receive this lesson without you
I'm really impressed at how good Tomoa is at teaching. Keep up the great work!
Seriously! Great knowledge sharing.
This video makes me realize how amazing UA-cam is. You can literally get tips from one of the best climbers in the world no matter where or who you are (for free) 🤯
自分の身体の動かし方を言語化出来るのすごいです！
色々と勉強になります！
the last tip is something i have never heard before and now i am even more excited to go try a lot of slab climbs (they're my favorite)! it's the opposite of what i learned as a beginner climber to try and rotate my hips to extend my reach, so it will take a lot of practice, i think! i hope you continue to upload more climbing tips in the future!
👌🏻thanks for the tips, and agreed thank you to FreiHeit for always translating. The translation is so critical so that the videos can reach such a bigger audience.
this channel is climbing gold. I really learn something new with each video.
Thanks Geek Climber for allowing me to discover this channel, it's fantastic ! Those slab climbing tips are amazing !
Amazing video on (almost) every climber's most hated style. And wow do I appreciate the humility of both of you.
It would be great to see Ikedai tries the moves as well
Thank you for this tutorial! This is very helpful. :) Would you consider doing a video on how to handle sloper holds? I've found that slopers are the worst! It would be great if you can share some techniques. :) Thank youuu~
Yes that would be really useful!
Second this. I recently got a lesson on them and it was really helpful - so much of it is about body positioning. Also bringing your elbows in/pulling down on the pinky side of your hand to create more force. A pro lesson would be really cool! In a recent video Miho also mentioned opening your hand in some cases to get more friction.
とてもスラブが苦手だったので参考になりました！！！✨
今回の動画は有料級ですね😊
スラブの面白さを感じ始めてたのですごくタイムリーでした！
「登る時の呼吸の意識」についても触れてもらえると嬉しいです❗️
really insightful
thank you for the subtitles!
Thank you for sharing.
I watched this video this afternoon and tried these skills on a slab problem I felt scary before.
Felt confident and easy to solve it!
Great contents guys. Really helpful and very well explained! Keep sharing!
Daaaaaaaaaamn these are so valuable! Keep up the great work!
Thank you for always providing English subs. These videos are great!
That last tip was especially great! Thank you 🙏
まとまってて分かりやすい！
スラブ登りたくなる素晴らしい動画
WOW. 9:02 was eye opening to see how the pivots all help with fluid movement!
色々なレクチャー動画がyoutubeにありますが、マジで一番tomoa先生のレクチャーはわかりやすい。
それだけ考えながら登っているんだろうな、と感心します。
今後も楽しみにしています、応援しています。
Great tip! I got quite a lot inspiration from you guys. Thank you Tomoa for sharing with us!
字幕ありがとう！ 勉強になりました！あっざす！
Amazing to get such advice from such a world class climber! Thank you! I have been trying to apply the advice and I have one question. I was trying this on some slabs that were very steep a couple of days ago and I think the beta was to use the arms to push down while on the slabs. If you increase the pressure, does that increase grip or make you slip more?
generally, it’ll increase grip, but if you’re pressing down really hard with your arms it’ll take pressure off your feet and make your feet slip
Most helpful climbing video i ever saw. Thanks alot for the subtitles!
Greetings from Germany :)
I really love these videos, they are insightful and to the point. They explain and show what to do, when to do it and why you do it. I also really like how cheerful you are in these videos. Thank you very much!
wow I never realized #5. thanks so much. will pay attention to this next time (:
I wasn’t aware of the 5th one, super helpful! I’ll be sure to pass it on to the people I climb with! Thank you!
スラブが苦手だったので、参考になりました
Thank you for the lesson! Slab climbing is quite scary for beginners ;-; so this is really helpful! ^^
its scary for ALL climbers haha
🗽 Thank you so much, Tomoa 🙏
I learned a lot! Greetings from Austria
.
Please do a lesson on how to climb overhangs 🙏
スラブ好きでよく練習するのですが、骨盤を平行になるように修正するとか
足の向きを変えていくと言うのは意識したことなかったので勉強になりました。
早速意識して練習してみます。
スラブがほんとに何練習して何意識したらいいか分からなかったので参考にさせてもらいます！！！！！
I failed the first tip: don’t be afraid of falling😂. Freaking out when falling
Amazing thank you, I didn't know about the triangle. I will try it today!
レッスンありがとうございます！特に「つま先・膝のえいっ！」はとても勉強になりました！普段登る時は動かす足の角度は考えますが、骨盤重視で逆の足を動かすのは天才ムーブでしょう！早速試してみます！
Thoughtful and analytical. Amazing all the details involved and what you are thinking about while climbing.
Thank you for the video, this is super helpful! Especially tips 1, 3 and 5 I need to work on
You guys are the best!
I am a climbing coach, your instructional videos are a great source of teaching points, well thought out and distilled points.
One point to be aware of for beginner or inflexible climbers is to be wary of whether you are able to drop your heel without moving your hips away to get the angle, if this happens you are again more likely to fall, so find the compromise that works for you.
Thank you sensei Narasaki!
Thanks again for all your tips! 🙏
Great video! Thank you for your advice!
Great video! Sometimes you do want stiff rather than soft shoes for slab, if you're stepping on tiny chips. Soft shoes are better for stepping/walking on volumes, as Tomoa says, since you can press a large surface area of the shoe to the volume. Stiff shoes are better for stepping on tiny footholds and chips, since the stiff shoe won't deform when you step on a tiny hold. It depends on the slab problem! Some are more oriented towards stepping on volumes, and some have tiny foot chips. Some have both!
Applied your tips yesterday, never felt this confident on slabs!! Big thank you from The Netherlands!!
マジで勉強になる。ありがとう
Those unparallel shoes look like they’ve seen a lot
Thank you very much for your lessons!
Great video. Clear and very well explained tips. Thank you!
Thank you for the lesson and for the subtitles !
I climb at Joshua Tree National Park and slab technique is so important because it's so scary on a multi pitch trad climbing! Thanks guys! 👌
These videos are really helpful, it's like climbing theory, thank you!😊
Nice video, really good tips! By the way, 12:00 😂😂
I would add a really important sixth: on a balancy move, since you aim for an end position as close as possible to the wall, start as far as possible from the wall.
Discovered this channel because of Geek Climber!
スラブ苦手で得意な人との違いが分からなかったんですけど、今回の動画で足の意識と距離感を学んでいきます。
あとスローパーも苦手なので、コツなんかあれば教えてください。
レッスンありがとうTomoa 先生！
初心者として、これは素晴らしいです. 今がんばる に 楽しみ
Thank you for the awesome Lesson, You are helping all the beginners out here! Including myself =)
撮影､編集お疲れ様です!!
実践してくれたりするのほんとにわかりやすいです…流石っ!!
知識増える増えるw
落ちるのは怖いから頑張らなくては…まぁやっては無い(やりたい(´；ω；｀)
今回もお疲れ様です！参考になります！
Thanks for english subtitles :)
ボルダリングでは ロ―プクライミング 以上に 落ちるのが 怖いです。特に スラブで ハリボテ があると めっちゃ 怖いです。でも最近 スラブの課題完登できて ちょっと自信がついたところです。最後の 膝やかかとの位置で骨盤を 壁に向かって並行にするという事が とても参考になりました。ありがとうございます。
あと もし良ければ いつか バ―ンドア―の対応の仕方を 教えて頂けると嬉しいです。最近悩んでいるところです。よろしくお願いします🙏
Thank you for the clear instructions (and subtitles). Keep up the good work!
By the way, would you consider collaborating with other pro UA-cam climbers like Magnus Midtbo and Adam Ondra? It would be really fun to see you guys together.
I can't thank enough to the video channel. "maintain your distance with the wall" was the key for me, 2nd was my feeling. From the coordination video to this one, always being reminded of this. With this mindset, now I am able to do some harder routes now. My moves are now less static and a bit more dynamic, so I could reach a little higher and little further. Got my first dyno today, my fear is still there but hopefully i will get there!
踵を下げるとアキレス腱が伸びて痛いんですてけど何か対処法ありますか？！教えてくださいお願いしま〜す
OK I have to ask, what is it about "Heel down"? Why is it weird to say that in Japanese?
足首がとにかく硬く、乗り込みに苦労します...。可動域を広げるようなストレッチなどもあればぜひ教えてください！
スラブ大好きスラバーなクライマーとしては
感覚的に行っていた部分が論理的に説明されていて
めちゃくちゃ参考になる動画だと思いました。
有料どうこうは別として、とても為になる内容でした！ありがとうございますm(_ _)m
スラブが凄く苦手だけど参考にして頑張ってみます！！
ただ恐怖に勝つあたりで心が折れそうだ😂
アンパラレルグリップめちゃくちゃ効くから良いですよね〜、正直靴に登らせてもらってる感が強いですね！笑
that is a CLEAN shirt
ty!!!
オブザベを強くなりたいです~
誰か教えて下さい🥺
nice!
まさかの練マザファッカー
thx.
いいね✕100万個
👏👏💪
👏👏👏👏👏
スラブは、怖がらずに壁にぺったりして、そこで滑ると、顔面とか顎とか怪我しちゃうので、どうしても怖いです(涙)。怪我してる人を見ると、次は自分の番だ！て怖くなります。どうすればいいのか(涙)。
ボルダリング始めてたらまだ10回目ですがスラブの3級は落とせたのですが、スラブ以外の3級に手こずってます😣
UA-camチャンネルに動画載せてあるので良ければアドバイス頂けるとありがたいです🥺🧗🏻
3:39 ... its obvious but a mind fuck.
went into climbing gym second time today, cause of this and it blows the mind. the big toe instead of all toes. this is waaaaaay too unknown. oô
こういう動画、有料チャンネルにしてもいいと思います。お金払いますよｗ
わかった、すらぶやめよなら大丈夫です
cursed video💀
jk i luv slab😛
いちこめ！
は
ぶた
its the first tip thats the hardest