Thanks for the video Matt! I used to change my oil and brakes with my Dad when I was younger and stopped due to his death and time. I just changed my own brakes and I'm very thankful for the video. Have a great day!
Ok . So here We go it's 5pm , was told this is the best video to watch out of all of them . And its time to change brakes on mum's car . Will post results or rants after . Definitely looks like a detailed video .
Just replaced the brakes on my 2011 Hyundai Sonata following the steps outlined in this video. Super super easy! The part that took the longest was actually just getting my car up on stands (I used the jack my car came with). If you have it in your budget, I suggest buying a hydraulic jack from Walmart ($30-50). It would have saved me at least 30 minutes. All-in-all it took just over an hour and cost me $27 for the brake pads, $2 for the brake lubricant packet, and I bought a socket wrench from Walmart that was super helpful for $20. I didn’t get a quote from a mechanic on how much it would cost if they did it, but I can only imagine my $50 was much cheaper. My brakes are working great! Thanks for the video!
Instead of wire, I’ve found that a 1 foot bungee works well to suspend the caliper. Run the.bungee through the caliper housing and hook the ends to the shock spring. No fussing with twisting and untwisting wire.🙂 You can use a screw driver against the old pad to push the piston back before you remove the caliper. This prevents having to collapse the piston before reinstalling the caliper with the new pads in place. Saves time, and also makes the caliper easier to disengage from the rotor. 15.9 to 23.1 ft/lbs. was the proper torque setting for caliper mount bolts on 2015 models. Likely pretty standard for this car model. Good video. Thanks.
Only thing I would add was at the end you should of told them to put the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir and pump your brakes until it is stiff!!! Nice video, thank you!
Yes, replace the cap. As for pumping the brakes, you actually need to take it for a drive and do 2 very slow stops from about 30mph, and then 2 hard stops from 30mph to make sure the pads are seated properly and there are no unwanted vibrations, noises, etc.
@@takeroadslesstraveled6505 Geeze I wish you lived next door. No brake fluid in my car (WTH Jiffy Lube?!?), brakes went soft. Put in brake fluid, hopefully your 2 slows from 30mph and 2 hards from 30mph does the trick.
thanks! great video and also you explained everything to a T. dealership told me 260$ lol got Platinum Wearever from Advanced online for 50$ with a coupon! and did it myself for 50$! saved 210$
I have to thank you for this video. Im no mechanic by any means. but after watching your video, I changed my pads myself and saved a few hundred dollars. That tip with the c-clamp and opening the reservior was smart. I still cant find a good diagram of the jacking points or where to place the jack stands on a sonata. I ended up using my jack at the pinchweld and putting the jack stand next to it and the tire next to it. Took me more than an hour to do one side watching your video over and over. But took me less than 15min to do the other side. Great help! Thanks again for taking the time to do this for people like me!
Cool vid, but I recommend that you grease the caliper guide pins (the pins in the boot on the caliper) - this way the caliper can move freely, and prevent uneven brake wear.
If the grease is lacking, then yes, definitely grease the pins. If they have plenty of grease on them still though there's no need. Good advice though.
Thank you. i followed every step. it helped me out so much. i only had trouble when i opened the brake reservoir when i was pushing the piston in with the C clamp. brake fluid was seeping out so i had to out the cap right away😊
Class A1 job! And that's coming from someone retired from the car repair biz now selling auto parts! Just 1 thing , in the field they are REQUIRED to resurface the rotors. (probably to sell more rotors) I don't like doing that because you end up with thinner rotors. If I'm not getting a vibration while braking I always rough up the rotors with a random sander. If I am , I always replace the rotors. Great vid!
First time changing my own brakes and this was the video that helped me the most, IMO. Thanks a lot for taking the time to make the video. Not a lot of fluff or too much talking, plenty of side tips and proper process discussion. Very helpful! BTW this might be my 2nd comment on UA-cam ever I just wanted to say thanks.
It's always bugged me that torque on lug nuts is mostly ignored. Glad to hear the mention of torque specs here. This is over looked by most people. Not only is this keeping your wheels on, but the rotors are highly machined and you notice when they warp .01 inch. It matters a lot. Anyways, great video.
Properly torquing the hardware is a big deal for me. Thanks for the compliment. One thing I hate about so many shops, and just one reason i do all I can myself, is due to so many just throwing an air gun or ratchet on bolts and lugs to reinstall them.
Simple job to do, I replaced the pads 3 years ago while the rotors was last year. A somewhat handyman can do this. A lot of car owners are just too lazy or afraid to do this. The dealer will charge you more than $400.00++ for a front brake job. Other garages will charge around $250.00++. As for me I only spent $65.00 for a Raybestos ceramic pads and $80.00 for 2 front rotors only.
Good video. As a home mechanic I find things usually go without a problem. However, one problem which occasionally arises is the pads are too tight for the caliper. This can happen especially with aftermarket brake pads. The cure is to grind a little metal off the pad tab, reducing its length. It has to slide freely. No big deal, but it can flumox a newbie first time it happens.
No, the solution is to remove the old brake hardware where the pads slide and use a file to get rid of the built up rust which are making the pad ears stick. Never, never, never reuse old brake hardware. And never file the pad ears. Buy the brake pad kits with the hardware. They will also come with grease that you will use at the back and front of the hardware. You put a bit of grease between the hardware and holder to prevent future rust and put put grease on the hardware to ease the pads sliding in their groves.
Thanks for the video! My calipers were difficult to remove and the metal plates on the inside pads got a little damaged (they were also rusty). Any tips for how to get the calipers off more easily should someone else run in to the same situation?
Loosen the caliper bolts so there’s a little play and open the master cylinder reservoir cap. use the c-clamp to compress the outer pad and rotor against the inner pad and piston. That will compress the piston a little to make it so you can get the whole caliper off.
I did everything in this video, the only exception is normal brake pads instead of ceramic. Used the grease on the tabs, etc. There’s a grinding noise when I use the brakes now? Is that normal? It’s more than the sensor made before driving. Barely driven it since yet, just back and forth in the driveway after pumping the brakes with cap back on. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Skylar, just saw your comment (9 months late). It is most likely the pad shims (the thin metal pieces that are on the main bracket) that aren’t lined up correctly.
My lil bro was mind blown at how easy and cheap it was when I showed him how to do his first brake job on his jeep. LOL he was like "You mean to tell me that they do the exact same thing we just did. With half the tools and equipment we did, and they charge you like up to $200 for front brakes???" And I was like "Now little brother, you know why I always do all my own repairs/maintenance on all of my vehicles. Given the fact I can actually tackle the job or have all the tools. Lol funny stuff!!!
My dad was the same way with me when I was growing up. Auto maintenance, home repairs, construction... his mindset was to teach me how to do things so I didn't have to pay someone else more. That and the aspect fo having pride in the work I do. Granted, not everyone can do it. as you said, having the knowledge, skill level, and tools to get the job done. And that's where a shop comes in. There are some things I take my vehicle in for. But the vast majority of stuff I do myself and save a bundle of money.
I always re lube my guide pins (sliders) first I clean them off with brake cleaner then re lube. also I would have cleaned the service rust off the rotor and not everything was lubed or greased you did say metal to metal gets greased/lubed the ears on the new pads were never lubed . always remember to put the cap back on the brake fluid and make sure to pump the brake pedal . i have seen guys for get this step at my hyundai dealer
Thanks for the video! Dealership quoted me $240 for a front brake job. Thinking about tackling this myself next weekend. Shouldn't you pack the wheel bearings too while the tires off? Or turning the rotors?
+David Nolen Only if they need it. Just because the tires are off doesn't mean more stuff needs to be done. Rotos only need turned if they are unevenly worn. Otherwise replace them. This would involve removing the caliper frame (2 bolts) as well. As for the bearings, the only time you'd pack them is if replacing the press in bearing which should last you a lot longer than a sets of brake pads.
+Matt Taylor The dealership said they needed to be turned so either they are just trying to get more money out of me or they are telling the truth...wonder which one it is. lol.
+David Nolen Unfortunately dealers usually try to get some extra money for things that aren't truly needed. I hear it all too often from friends who work as mechanics in various dealerships. This is why I never take my vehicles to them.
since brake fluid absorbs moisture, is it really necessary to open the master cylinder to your brake fluid? is there another way of doing this job without opening the brake fluid cap? Thanks Matt.
Jordan, You can just rest the cap on the port if you're worried about moisture. In all reality, unless you have to walk away from the vehicle for an extended length of time, you don't have to worry about moisture absorption. This is a pretty quick job. The reason for removing the cap is to allow the fluid to freely move in the lines while compressing the caliper piston back in. If the cap is in place you risk splitting a line while compressing the piston. You can wait to remove the cap until you're ready to compress the piston, but I just find it easier to remember to do it at the start rather than right at that moment of putting the clamp in place.
Google is always a pretty place to start... it's a pretty new thing so not many know to go there and search for the info they need. I'm just messing with you. What specs are you looking for (size, torque, thread pitch)?
What is that metal shim on the back of the inner pad? I purchased a.c. Delco pads and it appeared to have it on there already and the original one would not fit over the new pad Thank you
Jason Swartz Im not 100% sure, but I think that thin plate is just to prevent unwanted chatter/squeal. You don't need to keep the old ones if your new pad has them. The blue adhesive is there for the same reason. Brakes should be quiet until the pads are near their wearout point. Then the little built-in pad clip starts to squeal, while there is still some pad left. This saves you from metal to rotor contact which would trash your rotors.
+Tony Virata 16 ft/lbs. I never use a torque wrench on them as the spec is so low. Make contact with the bolt then snug it up. You don't want to go too tight or you'll strip the bolt out.
Either the pad may not be fully seated or the rotor has grooving in it and needs changed as well. Or, it’s the shims not being aligned properly and they’re rubbing the rotor.
Your piston is seized. This means a new caliper is needed. You will need to bleed the brake system after putting everything back together once the new caliper is on.
Great job! Keep learning more and more about your vehicle. It truly is amazing how much money you can save by doing these simple maintenance jobs yourself.
Gun Star the process is the exact same. If there are any differences it will only be in bolt size. Otherwise, follow the walkthrough and you’ll be good to go.
Is the 2012 Kia Optima the exact same thing? I read that both sonata and optima are the same mechanically and stuff, can anyone confirm this?Anybody know the torque spec for the wheels? Thanks
Good video, dont agree with the lube points though. The majority of your lube should be going on the brake shims and guide pins. The calliper should be fully serviced as well for longevity.
Fully serviced how? If you're speaking of a full rebuild, then no, it's not needed. If you're talking about greasing the piston, again, no, because doing so properly requires you o remove the seal. As for the lube points, any metal-to-metal contact point needs to be lubed. The guide pins do as well, but only if needed.
If the new pad has the shim plate already then you do not need to use the factory one. However, I stress the fact that you need to make absolutely sure that the new pads do not need the factory shim plate.
Matt Taylor the factory shim plate won't even fit over the pad and it has something that looks very similar to a shim plate already connected to it. thank you so much for the reply greatly appreciate it
jeff hill once you have clamp set up like it shows in the video, tighten down the clamp until the caliper piston is fully pressed back into the piston chamber. Loosen the clamp, remove it and the old pad, and you’re good to put the caliper back on.
My 2000 Hyun. Son. 2.5L tensioner has no 3/8 ratchet hole. You call it a socket hole it is a 3/8 "ratchet" hole. But mine has a square 17 mm raised nub. Use an end wrench to release tension.
Jim Blane, you can disagree, but the truth of the matter is that you SHOULD grease the shim clips. If you don't you will have a much higher chance of getting unwanted noise and premature wear on other brake components. Not only that, but any dirt you might get there is so minimal that it truly makes no difference. Add in that greasing them puts less strain on the caliper piston since the pads can move more freely and smoothly in the shims when they are greased and you see that The benefits out-way the cons and proper maintenance calls for them to be greased.
what hardware are you speaking of? The retainer clips/shims only need replaced if they are warped. Bolts only need replaced if they are bent or stripped.
Wtf is the bullshit about opening the reservoir because of "pressure causing damage to the brake lines" ? How much pressure do you think those lines have to deal with slowing down your vehicle everyday? It's certainly not pushing back the piston that's going to cause any damage.
ferdiscop16, you would be surprised. In every day driving, the piston does not fully retract when you apply and let off your brakes. The piston continually gets moved out of the caliper, keeping your pads in close proximity to the rotor as the pads wear down. When you put new pads in you have to FULLY compress the piston, which puts an immense amount of pressure on the lines, piston seal, and line fittings. This pressure, which is NOT normally sustained by the brake system during normal operation is what causes the potential damage. This is brake systems 101 my friend.
Thanks for the video Matt! I used to change my oil and brakes with my Dad when I was younger and stopped due to his death and time. I just changed my own brakes and I'm very thankful for the video. Have a great day!
Ok . So here We go it's 5pm , was told this is the best video to watch out of all of them .
And its time to change brakes on mum's car .
Will post results or rants after .
Definitely looks like a detailed video .
Just replaced the brakes on my 2011 Hyundai Sonata following the steps outlined in this video. Super super easy! The part that took the longest was actually just getting my car up on stands (I used the jack my car came with). If you have it in your budget, I suggest buying a hydraulic jack from Walmart ($30-50). It would have saved me at least 30 minutes.
All-in-all it took just over an hour and cost me $27 for the brake pads, $2 for the brake lubricant packet, and I bought a socket wrench from Walmart that was super helpful for $20. I didn’t get a quote from a mechanic on how much it would cost if they did it, but I can only imagine my $50 was much cheaper. My brakes are working great!
Thanks for the video!
$27 for the pads?? where
Instead of wire, I’ve found that a 1 foot bungee works well to suspend the caliper. Run the.bungee through the caliper housing and hook the ends to the shock spring. No fussing with twisting and untwisting wire.🙂 You can use a screw driver against the old pad to push the piston back before you remove the caliper. This prevents having to collapse the piston before reinstalling the caliper with the new pads in place. Saves time, and also makes the caliper easier to disengage from the rotor. 15.9 to 23.1 ft/lbs. was the proper torque setting for caliper mount bolts on 2015 models. Likely pretty standard for this car model. Good video. Thanks.
Only thing I would add was at the end you should of told them to put the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir and pump your brakes until it is stiff!!! Nice video, thank you!
Yes, replace the cap. As for pumping the brakes, you actually need to take it for a drive and do 2 very slow stops from about 30mph, and then 2 hard stops from 30mph to make sure the pads are seated properly and there are no unwanted vibrations, noises, etc.
@@takeroadslesstraveled6505 Geeze I wish you lived next door. No brake fluid in my car (WTH Jiffy Lube?!?), brakes went soft. Put in brake fluid, hopefully your 2 slows from 30mph and 2 hards from 30mph does the trick.
Thanks for the reminder!
thanks! great video and also you explained everything to a T. dealership told me 260$ lol got Platinum Wearever from Advanced online for 50$ with a coupon! and did it myself for 50$! saved 210$
Nice step by step video. Saves people a lot of $$ and trips to the dealership. Thanks for taking the time to post.
Thanks Matt! You saved me $350 ($400 quote from local dealership). Also thanks for the torque specs below.
I have to thank you for this video. Im no mechanic by any means. but after watching your video, I changed my pads myself and saved a few hundred dollars. That tip with the c-clamp and opening the reservior was smart. I still cant find a good diagram of the jacking points or where to place the jack stands on a sonata. I ended up using my jack at the pinchweld and putting the jack stand next to it and the tire next to it. Took me more than an hour to do one side watching your video over and over. But took me less than 15min to do the other side. Great help! Thanks again for taking the time to do this for people like me!
Thanks for a great video! I just did my front breaks after watching and it was surprisingly easy.
John Sanchez glad it helped!
You're the man. I followed every steps you showed and my brakes are good to go. Thanks so much.
Glad to have helped!
Cool vid, but I recommend that you grease the caliper guide pins (the pins in the boot on the caliper) - this way the caliper can move freely, and prevent uneven brake wear.
If the grease is lacking, then yes, definitely grease the pins. If they have plenty of grease on them still though there's no need. Good advice though.
@@takeroadslesstraveled6505 Yes, but that was something that should be mentioned.
thank you so much for all of these valuable tips that others, often forget. this is more than just basics
Thank you. i followed every step. it helped me out so much. i only had trouble when i opened the brake reservoir when i was pushing the piston in with the C clamp. brake fluid was seeping out so i had to out the cap right away😊
Class A1 job! And that's coming from someone retired from the car repair biz now selling auto parts! Just 1 thing , in the field they are REQUIRED to resurface the rotors. (probably to sell more rotors) I don't like doing that because you end up with thinner rotors. If I'm not getting a vibration while braking I always rough up the rotors with a random sander. If I am , I always replace the rotors. Great vid!
Thanks for the compliments. I'm not a huge fan of resurfacing rotors either, but it is an option if there is enough material left on them.
Nice step by step video. Very thorough. Thanks!
Loved the tip about opening the brake fluid res.
First time changing my own brakes and this was the video that helped me the most, IMO. Thanks a lot for taking the time to make the video. Not a lot of fluff or too much talking, plenty of side tips and proper process discussion. Very helpful! BTW this might be my 2nd comment on UA-cam ever I just wanted to say thanks.
Glad it helped!
I suggest checking out other videos. He did well,but he forgot to explain the torque specs and greasing the pins.
Thanks for a great video and thorough explanation ... I'm a C-clamp and torque wrench away from giving this a go!
Thank you for that video. Now I will be saving money!!!
Thanks mann💯. First time brake changer and was stuff on why it wasn't sliding back on. C clamp it!! 😅
Awesome Video! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. The dealer quoted me $280 to do this.
It really just goes to show you how much money you can save by doing basic maintenance yourself. Glad the video helped!
It's always bugged me that torque on lug nuts is mostly ignored. Glad to hear the mention of torque specs here. This is over looked by most people. Not only is this keeping your wheels on, but the rotors are highly machined and you notice when they warp .01 inch. It matters a lot. Anyways, great video.
Properly torquing the hardware is a big deal for me. Thanks for the compliment. One thing I hate about so many shops, and just one reason i do all I can myself, is due to so many just throwing an air gun or ratchet on bolts and lugs to reinstall them.
Outstanding guide!
This video really helped me out. Thank you so much for sharing.
Great video!! Very helpful!! Thank you
Thank you! So many good suggestions.
Great video, very easy to follow! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Brother this was a life saver🤘🏾
glad it helped!
This is really helpful !!
Thanks for great explain.
Simple job to do, I replaced the pads 3 years ago while the rotors was last year. A somewhat handyman can do this. A lot of car owners are just too lazy or afraid to do this. The dealer will charge you more than $400.00++ for a front brake job. Other garages will charge around $250.00++. As for me I only spent $65.00 for a Raybestos ceramic pads and $80.00 for 2 front rotors only.
GREAT & EXCELLENT!...Easy to comprehend!...Really appreciate your info...5 Stars+++++
Thanks! Glad it helped you out.
thanks for posting...gonna give this a shot over the weekend
Were the rotors eventually changed or was this just a video showing how to change brake pads only ?
What if I do not have a C-clamp? Do you have an alternative recommendation to depress the caliper piston without a c-clamp?
it's going to be pretty tough without one. C-Clamps are pretty inexpensive, and they truly are invaluable when you need them.
Thanks Matt. That's the conclusion I came to shortly after looking up the prices.
"make sure you jack at the right spot"
giggity
Good video. As a home mechanic I find things usually go without a problem. However, one problem which occasionally arises is the pads are too tight for the caliper. This can happen especially with aftermarket brake pads. The cure is to grind a little metal off the pad tab, reducing its length. It has to slide freely. No big deal, but it can flumox a newbie first time it happens.
No, the solution is to remove the old brake hardware where the pads slide and use a file to get rid of the built up rust which are making the pad ears stick. Never, never, never reuse old brake hardware. And never file the pad ears. Buy the brake pad kits with the hardware. They will also come with grease that you will use at the back and front of the hardware. You put a bit of grease between the hardware and holder to prevent future rust and put put grease on the hardware to ease the pads sliding in their groves.
@@cutabove9046I noticed that too. He didn't explain greasing the sliding pins either
Thanks for the video! My calipers were difficult to remove and the metal plates on the inside pads got a little damaged (they were also rusty). Any tips for how to get the calipers off more easily should someone else run in to the same situation?
Loosen the caliper bolts so there’s a little play and open the master cylinder reservoir cap. use the c-clamp to compress the outer pad and rotor against the inner pad and piston. That will compress the piston a little to make it so you can get the whole caliper off.
Thank you!
Great information , thanks a bunch.
Glad it helped!
I did everything in this video, the only exception is normal brake pads instead of ceramic. Used the grease on the tabs, etc.
There’s a grinding noise when I use the brakes now? Is that normal? It’s more than the sensor made before driving. Barely driven it since yet, just back and forth in the driveway after pumping the brakes with cap back on.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Skylar, just saw your comment (9 months late). It is most likely the pad shims (the thin metal pieces that are on the main bracket) that aren’t lined up correctly.
Great video
My lil bro was mind blown at how easy and cheap it was when I showed him how to do his first brake job on his jeep. LOL he was like "You mean to tell me that they do the exact same thing we just did. With half the tools and equipment we did, and they charge you like up to $200 for front brakes???" And I was like "Now little brother, you know why I always do all my own repairs/maintenance on all of my vehicles. Given the fact I can actually tackle the job or have all the tools. Lol funny stuff!!!
My dad was the same way with me when I was growing up. Auto maintenance, home repairs, construction... his mindset was to teach me how to do things so I didn't have to pay someone else more. That and the aspect fo having pride in the work I do. Granted, not everyone can do it. as you said, having the knowledge, skill level, and tools to get the job done. And that's where a shop comes in. There are some things I take my vehicle in for. But the vast majority of stuff I do myself and save a bundle of money.
I always re lube my guide pins (sliders) first I clean them off with brake cleaner then re lube. also I would have cleaned the service rust off the rotor and not everything was lubed or greased you did say metal to metal gets greased/lubed the ears on the new pads were never lubed . always remember to put the cap back on the brake fluid and make sure to pump the brake pedal . i have seen guys for get this step at my hyundai dealer
What is the torque spec for the 2 caliper bolts? Thank you.
16 ft/lb for the floating caliper, 19ft/lbs for the frame.
Thanks for the video! Dealership quoted me $240 for a front brake job. Thinking about tackling this myself next weekend.
Shouldn't you pack the wheel bearings too while the tires off? Or turning the rotors?
+David Nolen Only if they need it. Just because the tires are off doesn't mean more stuff needs to be done. Rotos only need turned if they are unevenly worn. Otherwise replace them. This would involve removing the caliper frame (2 bolts) as well. As for the bearings, the only time you'd pack them is if replacing the press in bearing which should last you a lot longer than a sets of brake pads.
+Matt Taylor The dealership said they needed to be turned so either they are just trying to get more money out of me or they are telling the truth...wonder which one it is. lol.
+David Nolen Unfortunately dealers usually try to get some extra money for things that aren't truly needed. I hear it all too often from friends who work as mechanics in various dealerships. This is why I never take my vehicles to them.
Did you get any pulsing not replacing the rotors only the pads?
No pulsing. The rotors were still in great shape so they didn’t need turning either. The rust is just due to living near the ocean.
Great video Matt... thank you bro
Will I need to bleed the brakes after completing???
Short answer, no. Just replacing the pads, and even the rotors, does not expose the system to air pockets.
since brake fluid absorbs moisture, is it really necessary to open the master cylinder to your brake fluid? is there another way of doing this job without opening the brake fluid cap? Thanks Matt.
Jordan, You can just rest the cap on the port if you're worried about moisture. In all reality, unless you have to walk away from the vehicle for an extended length of time, you don't have to worry about moisture absorption. This is a pretty quick job. The reason for removing the cap is to allow the fluid to freely move in the lines while compressing the caliper piston back in. If the cap is in place you risk splitting a line while compressing the piston. You can wait to remove the cap until you're ready to compress the piston, but I just find it easier to remember to do it at the start rather than right at that moment of putting the clamp in place.
+Matt Taylor Awesome, thanks Matt.
Great video thank u
hey bro, that clip didn't fit on the pads my sister got from O'Reilly's. I forced them on and the caliper did go on it, are u sure its needed?
Yes, it is required. Only way it is not is if the new pads already have it on there.
When you’re using the c clamp, does it has to be very hard to spin? I hardly see the piston going in when I’m using a lot of force
It should compress easily. Perhaps the piston is seized or already fully compressed.
What are the specs for the bolts? Do you know them and if not where can we find out?
Google is always a pretty place to start... it's a pretty new thing so not many know to go there and search for the info they need.
I'm just messing with you. What specs are you looking for (size, torque, thread pitch)?
What is that metal shim on the back of the inner pad? I purchased a.c. Delco pads and it appeared to have it on there already and the original one would not fit over the new pad
Thank you
Jason Swartz Im not 100% sure, but I think that thin plate is just to prevent unwanted chatter/squeal. You don't need to keep the old ones if your new pad has them. The blue adhesive is there for the same reason. Brakes should be quiet until the pads are near their wearout point. Then the little built-in pad clip starts to squeal, while there is still some pad left. This saves you from metal to rotor contact which would trash your rotors.
Are the slide pins separate, and have to be unscrewed or do they pull right out? Most brakes I've seen are built into the caliper cover bolts.
And to change the rear brake pads, much different????
Haven't done the rears, but the premise is the same.
You should turn the wheel to the outside to get a better access....
Do you know what the torque specs are for the 14mm caliper bolts?
+Tony Virata 16 ft/lbs. I never use a torque wrench on them as the spec is so low. Make contact with the bolt then snug it up. You don't want to go too tight or you'll strip the bolt out.
+Matt Taylor Thanks!
after changing my front brake pads, the front left is making scraping sound, any idea?
Either the pad may not be fully seated or the rotor has grooving in it and needs changed as well. Or, it’s the shims not being aligned properly and they’re rubbing the rotor.
Piston won't push back in, i unscrewed the pipe line and it won't push back in. What else can I try?
Your piston is seized. This means a new caliper is needed. You will need to bleed the brake system after putting everything back together once the new caliper is on.
What's the torrent on 14 mm
23 lb-ft
I just successfully changed my brakes thanks
Great job! Keep learning more and more about your vehicle. It truly is amazing how much money you can save by doing these simple maintenance jobs yourself.
is this the same for a 2009-2010?
Gun Star the process is the exact same. If there are any differences it will only be in bolt size. Otherwise, follow the walkthrough and you’ll be good to go.
I prefer to use a large C-frame Vice-Grip to compress caliper pistons.
Great video bro...im just mad how you didn't tell anyone about cleaning up the rust around the brake area.
Well done
Is the 2012 Kia Optima the exact same thing? I read that both sonata and optima are the same mechanically and stuff, can anyone confirm this?Anybody know the torque spec for the wheels?
Thanks
Yes, the Optima and Sonata are mechanically the same. Wheel lug torque is 90ft lbs.
There are pad sets that come complete with repalcement shims and clips. They aren't expensive
Good to know. But if they don't come with that plate, make sure you keep it as it's a must!
Good video, dont agree with the lube points though. The majority of your lube should be going on the brake shims and guide pins. The calliper should be fully serviced as well for longevity.
Fully serviced how? If you're speaking of a full rebuild, then no, it's not needed. If you're talking about greasing the piston, again, no, because doing so properly requires you o remove the seal.
As for the lube points, any metal-to-metal contact point needs to be lubed. The guide pins do as well, but only if needed.
Thanks!!!
WOW!!! What a C-Clamp!!! I bet Jesus used it when he changed the brakes on his car 😉
yeah, it's an old one. Belonged to my great grandfather and it's been passed down through the years.
and make sure you release the e brake if you put it on. 😅 I didn't make that rookie mistake
😂😂😂
I'm working with a 2015 limited
If the new pad has the shim plate already then you do not need to use the factory one. However, I stress the fact that you need to make absolutely sure that the new pads do not need the factory shim plate.
Matt Taylor the factory shim plate won't even fit over the pad and it has something that looks very similar to a shim plate already connected to it.
thank you so much for the reply greatly appreciate it
I’m confused at the c clamp part
jeff hill once you have clamp set up like it shows in the video, tighten down the clamp until the caliper piston is fully pressed back into the piston chamber. Loosen the clamp, remove it and the old pad, and you’re good to put the caliper back on.
My 2000 Hyun. Son. 2.5L tensioner has no 3/8 ratchet hole. You call it a socket hole it is a 3/8 "ratchet" hole. But mine has a square 17 mm raised nub. Use an end wrench to release tension.
I don't advise greasing the slots in the clips, as it attracts dirt, causing more problems than it solves.
Jim Blane, you can disagree, but the truth of the matter is that you SHOULD grease the shim clips. If you don't you will have a much higher chance of getting unwanted noise and premature wear on other brake components. Not only that, but any dirt you might get there is so minimal that it truly makes no difference. Add in that greasing them puts less strain on the caliper piston since the pads can move more freely and smoothly in the shims when they are greased and you see that The benefits out-way the cons and proper maintenance calls for them to be greased.
How important is a brake flush?
Brake fluid can get contaminated over time, but it's rare. It's just a good practice to flush the fluid every 100k.
I wish you would show those important parts which you said were difficult but you ended up skipping that part
Never had any difficult part that I didn't show. What parts are you referring to?
Man I can't believe how much the dealership charges to change pads
We couldn't take a little time and clean off that piston plate. I mean.
Break hardwarw must be changed tooo
what hardware are you speaking of? The retainer clips/shims only need replaced if they are warped. Bolts only need replaced if they are bent or stripped.
Wtf is the bullshit about opening the reservoir because of "pressure causing damage to the brake lines" ? How much pressure do you think those lines have to deal with slowing down your vehicle everyday? It's certainly not pushing back the piston that's going to cause any damage.
ferdiscop16, you would be surprised. In every day driving, the piston does not fully retract when you apply and let off your brakes. The piston continually gets moved out of the caliper, keeping your pads in close proximity to the rotor as the pads wear down. When you put new pads in you have to FULLY compress the piston, which puts an immense amount of pressure on the lines, piston seal, and line fittings. This pressure, which is NOT normally sustained by the brake system during normal operation is what causes the potential damage. This is brake systems 101 my friend.