Great video. I have a CW380 with some gremlins. Since they're all made the same, this video was a big help in the understanding and diagnosing of these issues.
The trick that worked for me was putting a very small, spring loaded clamp on the trigger bar at the back of the frame. Look at the bar, almost all of it is inside, the little ear that sticks out is what you're clamping to the body. Putting that little window plate on might also work to hold it in place. Having 1 less thing to be worried about while putting that trigger spring in was the trick. I got the spring in on the first try once I figured to put the clamp on. I can email you a picture if you need, just let me know!
Ashburn....Eh, I wanted to thank you for putting together this thoroughly documented disassembly of these MK Series pistola's. You saved me from making a Polish mistake, which doesn't happen often :). I tried to use a punch to remove the trigger pin & it was like hitting concrete. So, I knew something was up...went onto the tube, found your video & then realized I needed a press. It would have ended very badly had I not watched your video. My MK9 is an older model that wasn't well taken care of by the previous owner & it had a bit of pitting on it, which also affected the trigger pin area. I ended up using a vice with about a 3mm long piece of drill to break her lose. The pressure I put on that pin had to be close to 10-15K pounds per sq in...it was AMAZING! I ended up polishing the gun up to a Mirror & left the slide brushed & the top of the slide & rear with the factor bead blast w/walnut grips (looks Sharp!). The pitting was only present on the frame due to the lower grade of stainless Kahr used...She looks *REAL PERTY* now, gonna sell her on Gunbroker (I don't shoot 9's -project gun) & once I put her up, I'll send you a link to check it out. Again, Thanks Brother...your time is appreciated, just so you know. Peace
@@JoRocket77 You'll need a couple grits of sand paper and depending how rough your finish is, determines how severe of a piece of sand paper you'll be using. I will use a range of papers from 240, 600, 1,000, 2,000, 3,000 & Mother's Aluminium Polishing compound & Happich Simichrome Polish. You'll also need a sheet of glass, marble, formica (something real flat & hard) & a Dremmel tool, which i like to use the hand-held flex-shaft with a round felt polisher. www.walmart.com/ip/MTP-15-3-Hard-3-8-Felt-Polishing-Tip-for-Dremel-422-Rotary-Tool-Mandrel-401-1-8-Clean-Polish-Tool-Jewelry-Stone-Hobby/802242737?athcpid=802242737&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVUB&athieid=v0&athstid=CS004&athguid=da1a36d6-006-174cffaa83d577&athancid=null&athena=true The felt polisher is only used to hold the sand paper I use & I typically only use 600 grit or higher with the dremel tool and a 240 grit if I'm trying to get out mold/cast lines in parts. I use the painter blue tape with a small long strip of the sand paper and tape it to the round felt polisher, as the paper wear out, you can just tear off that section and continue sanding & etc. You want to be careful to go in one direction only when your sanding parts i.e. frames, slides, long parts. Lastly you'll need a cotton buffing wheel for your drill or a bench grinder of sorts and use the Mother's Polishing Compound (or white bar) at the end to get you that mirror finish. If it's not to your satisfaction, apply another coat of mothers and polish again, until happy. www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-buffing-wheel-34743.html www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-8-inch-buffing-wheel-set-46262.html On all my Kahr's I polished the front of the slide ot a mirror, which looks pretty cool....you'd be able to see your reflection in the gun if it was pointed at you :) I used a piece of 240 grit taped flat to a sheet of glass and slowly pulled the slide back until the beadblast marks were gone...I put some oil on sandpaper for the last couple passes of each grit & you'll want to clean off the piece between each sandpaper change up (you don't want any of the rough grit to transfer to the finer grit paper). Then I attached a 600grit to the glass and repeated process, then the 1,000 grit, then 2,000, then the mother's compound on the glass by itself. When completed it will be a mirror polish on the front. Hope this Helps & *WEAR A MASK* those Prop 65 Warningsare there for a reason, sandpaper is nasty stuff and can cause PERMANENT damage to lungs....be aware when you spin this stuff at high rates/vibrating speeds & try to create a negative air pressure to suck away the particulates as you polish. Peace Brother
Good video. Must won't tackle a full disassembly of these, which is too bad, they are quite simple. I took my MK9 fully apart to have it Cerakoted a dark gun metal gray. With the polished slide catch, polished barrel and trigger left stainless it looks real nice. Also replaced the grips with Lakeline black and tan G10 grips and replaced the TruDot original night sights with a set of TruGlo TFX PRO Tritium Night Sights.
Dude, thank you so much for this in depth and well shot video breaking everything down. I’m rehabbing a used K40 that I picked up from a pawn shop and had pretty much figured it out, but it’s always nice to get confirmation. Especially on the one way pins in the frame, and tips for reassembly of the unique parts. I would have been boogered hammering that trigger pin out. As it is, mine is slightly bent, seems a new one is in order anyway. Again, thank you much for putting this informative video together to help others.
That spring that hooks at the bottom of the trigger bar and pushes up on it is where it should be. It floats as the bar slides back and forth. I opened my CW9 and P380, and they are in the same position.
So my brand new 25th Anniversary K9 which is much the same gun, had a really grunchy trigger pull. It turns out that the underside of the trigger bar was not smooth and no where near a polish finish so the chatter I felt in the trigger was the peaks on the bottom of the bar as it moved past the curve in the spring that holds it up. So I took it apart and ground it smooth with a very smooth stone dremel bit and then buffed it. It came out easily enough but when I went to put it back together, there was no way to get the trigger bar back in on the trigger side. I too tapped at the trigger pin, which is actually just a pin on the K9, to no avail. Thanks for the video. As a small compensation the easy way to get the trigger back in is to start the pin back in with the trigger in place, stop before it comes through the inner right side of the trigger, This is just enough to hold the trigger in place for you while you hold the bar and align the plastic retainer and spring. A tad easier than your 7 finger method. ;) Put the the spring and plastic retainer in behind the trigger, put the punch in from the left and then continue to press the trigger pin in while aligning the retainer and spring. I will never buy another Kahr pistol in my life. Again, thanks for the video.
I picked up a used K9 Elite, wood grips and all, for $325 out the door that had a broken trigger spring. Replaced it with your help. My trigger pin was easily removed without a press, just an 8 ounce hammer and punch. The trigger bar also looked nasty near the disconnector hump so i replaced that too.
I agree.. as for this guy's ability, "If you don't know what you're doing, Don't do it!" I have a MK40, made it into a multi-caliber, and this video makes a great and simple gun look like a pain, which it is NOT - everything he whined about was done for a purpose he can't comprehend, to his loss..
A man who enjoys his work no matter how complicated the manufacturer made it. I actually sat through most of the video.
Great video. I have a CW380 with some gremlins. Since they're all made the same, this video was a big help in the understanding and diagnosing of these issues.
This video has been helpful more than once when disassembling and reassembling my mk40 and k9.
The trick that worked for me was putting a very small, spring loaded clamp on the trigger bar at the back of the frame. Look at the bar, almost all of it is inside, the little ear that sticks out is what you're clamping to the body. Putting that little window plate on might also work to hold it in place. Having 1 less thing to be worried about while putting that trigger spring in was the trick. I got the spring in on the first try once I figured to put the clamp on. I can email you a picture if you need, just let me know!
I have a second hand CW45 with a broken sear spring. I took the firearm apart but needed reassembly directions. You Sir are a Scholar and a Gentleman.
Ashburn....Eh, I wanted to thank you for putting together this thoroughly documented disassembly of these MK Series pistola's. You saved me from making a Polish mistake, which doesn't happen often :). I tried to use a punch to remove the trigger pin & it was like hitting concrete. So, I knew something was up...went onto the tube, found your video & then realized I needed a press. It would have ended very badly had I not watched your video. My MK9 is an older model that wasn't well taken care of by the previous owner & it had a bit of pitting on it, which also affected the trigger pin area. I ended up using a vice with about a 3mm long piece of drill to break her lose. The pressure I put on that pin had to be close to 10-15K pounds per sq in...it was AMAZING! I ended up polishing the gun up to a Mirror & left the slide brushed & the top of the slide & rear with the factor bead blast w/walnut grips (looks Sharp!). The pitting was only present on the frame due to the lower grade of stainless Kahr used...She looks *REAL PERTY* now, gonna sell her on Gunbroker (I don't shoot 9's -project gun) & once I put her up, I'll send you a link to check it out. Again, Thanks Brother...your time is appreciated, just so you know.
Peace
How do you polish it up to a mirror finish? I tried polishing my MK40 and it looks good, however, i can still see the grain.
@@JoRocket77 You'll need a couple grits of sand paper and depending how rough your finish is, determines how severe of a piece of sand paper you'll be using. I will use a range of papers from 240, 600, 1,000, 2,000, 3,000 & Mother's Aluminium Polishing compound & Happich Simichrome Polish. You'll also need a sheet of glass, marble, formica (something real flat & hard) & a Dremmel tool, which i like to use the hand-held flex-shaft with a round felt polisher.
www.walmart.com/ip/MTP-15-3-Hard-3-8-Felt-Polishing-Tip-for-Dremel-422-Rotary-Tool-Mandrel-401-1-8-Clean-Polish-Tool-Jewelry-Stone-Hobby/802242737?athcpid=802242737&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVUB&athieid=v0&athstid=CS004&athguid=da1a36d6-006-174cffaa83d577&athancid=null&athena=true
The felt polisher is only used to hold the sand paper I use & I typically only use 600 grit or higher with the dremel tool and a 240 grit if I'm trying to get out mold/cast lines in parts. I use the painter blue tape with a small long strip of the sand paper and tape it to the round felt polisher, as the paper wear out, you can just tear off that section and continue sanding & etc.
You want to be careful to go in one direction only when your sanding parts i.e. frames, slides, long parts.
Lastly you'll need a cotton buffing wheel for your drill or a bench grinder of sorts and use the Mother's Polishing Compound (or white bar) at the end to get you that mirror finish. If it's not to your satisfaction, apply another coat of mothers and polish again, until happy.
www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-buffing-wheel-34743.html
www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-8-inch-buffing-wheel-set-46262.html
On all my Kahr's I polished the front of the slide ot a mirror, which looks pretty cool....you'd be able to see your reflection in the gun if it was pointed at you :) I used a piece of 240 grit taped flat to a sheet of glass and slowly pulled the slide back until the beadblast marks were gone...I put some oil on sandpaper for the last couple passes of each grit & you'll want to clean off the piece between each sandpaper change up (you don't want any of the rough grit to transfer to the finer grit paper). Then I attached a 600grit to the glass and repeated process, then the 1,000 grit, then 2,000, then the mother's compound on the glass by itself. When completed it will be a mirror polish on the front.
Hope this Helps & *WEAR A MASK* those Prop 65 Warningsare there for a reason, sandpaper is nasty stuff and can cause PERMANENT damage to lungs....be aware when you spin this stuff at high rates/vibrating speeds & try to create a negative air pressure to suck away the particulates as you polish.
Peace Brother
Good video. Must won't tackle a full disassembly of these, which is too bad, they are quite simple. I took my MK9 fully apart to have it Cerakoted a dark gun metal gray. With the polished slide catch, polished barrel and trigger left stainless it looks real nice. Also replaced the grips with Lakeline black and tan G10 grips and replaced the TruDot original night sights with a set of TruGlo TFX PRO Tritium Night Sights.
Dude, thank you so much for this in depth and well shot video breaking everything down. I’m rehabbing a used K40 that I picked up from a pawn shop and had pretty much figured it out, but it’s always nice to get confirmation. Especially on the one way pins in the frame, and tips for reassembly of the unique parts. I would have been boogered hammering that trigger pin out. As it is, mine is slightly bent, seems a new one is in order anyway. Again, thank you much for putting this informative video together to help others.
That spring that hooks at the bottom of the trigger bar and pushes up on it is where it should be. It floats as the bar slides back and forth. I opened my CW9 and P380, and they are in the same position.
So my brand new 25th Anniversary K9 which is much the same gun, had a really grunchy trigger pull. It turns out that the underside of the trigger bar was not smooth and no where near a polish finish so the chatter I felt in the trigger was the peaks on the bottom of the bar as it moved past the curve in the spring that holds it up. So I took it apart and ground it smooth with a very smooth stone dremel bit and then buffed it. It came out easily enough but when I went to put it back together, there was no way to get the trigger bar back in on the trigger side. I too tapped at the trigger pin, which is actually just a pin on the K9, to no avail. Thanks for the video. As a small compensation the easy way to get the trigger back in is to start the pin back in with the trigger in place, stop before it comes through the inner right side of the trigger, This is just enough to hold the trigger in place for you while you hold the bar and align the plastic retainer and spring. A tad easier than your 7 finger method. ;) Put the the spring and plastic retainer in behind the trigger, put the punch in from the left and then continue to press the trigger pin in while aligning the retainer and spring. I will never buy another Kahr pistol in my life. Again, thanks for the video.
I picked up a used K9 Elite, wood grips and all, for $325 out the door that had a broken trigger spring. Replaced it with your help. My trigger pin was easily removed without a press, just an 8 ounce hammer and punch. The trigger bar also looked nasty near the disconnector hump so i replaced that too.
Another great, detailed video. Thank you!
If you have a polymer frame you won’t have the sear pin going all the way through so you have to remove the transfer bar and get it out with a magnet.
I kind of like the theory of reassembly that if it's not lined up...just whack it with a hammer... :}
Ive been trying to get the trigger for my pm9 together for 4 days. Ive been trying for about 20 hours total
Have the right tools and knowledge of breakdown next time!!
There are much better videos on this!! Horrible letting parts fly!!
Much better on a MK40 disassembly and reassembly? Where?
I agree.. as for this guy's ability, "If you don't know what you're doing, Don't do it!" I have a MK40, made it into a multi-caliber, and this video makes a great and simple gun look like a pain, which it is NOT - everything he whined about was done for a purpose he can't comprehend, to his loss..