Am about to do front brakes on my 92 W250. In your video, you quote socket part # 7158, but that appears to have recessed studs. P/N 7217 has protruding studs which appears to be like the one you are showing. Am I mistaken. About to order parts. Thanks.
This is an old posting I just came up on my UA-cam search. Man of this truck was in Minnesota The soon going to be rotted out body and everything. Curious where you live unless you went and got this truck down south??
I’ve done a lot of bearings on 60’s 50’s 44’s I’ve never used torque specs. Just by feel. I should learn to read. on my current Dana 60 I used stage 8 locking spindle nuts, I’ll never go back to stock there sweet.
The pads I got from my local parts store were junk. They squeal and squeak quite a bit. The rotors were fine though. The ones I linked from Amazon though I'm not sure about the quality I haven't tried them.
In the future when you put those back together put some grease under the heads of those little Allen screws that helps out a lot I have a first GEN dodge and that really helps a lot this is six in a row jim From Kennerdell Pennsylvania
I ended up putting some anti seize on them after I picked up some new stainless allen bolts from my local fastener store! They look way better in stainless too!
A true master mechanic once told me after you clean the bearings natural you look at the rollers on the outside but you look inside of the inner race you look at where the the rollers ride inside yeah that’s where you want to look for pets and things like that you rotated over real slow with a light on one side and you’re looking in the other is a six in a row jim from Kennerdell Pennsylvania by the way that mechanic I was telling you about he was a master at rebuilding Detroit Cummins cat engines transmissions for 18 wheeler‘s differentials he was a true master mechanic and all kind of other things he was good at so anyway take my word for it Bill actually was a true master all right have a good day
Ok. So attempting to put my caliper and pads back on but there is a significant gap between the rotor and caliper bracket. I cannot get the pads in and I feel something isn’t right. It’s not possible I didn’t get everything seated is it!? What am I doing wrong!?
A nice way to get the rear hub seal out is to first slide the hub out and get the front bearing out then re seat the hub, loosely thread the lock nut back on and pull the hub straight off. The nut will prevent the rear bearing from coming off and the bearing will force the seal out of the hub.
This is the style they should've stuck to for the dana 60 on the 2nd gens it is the biggest pain in the ass dealing with the center axle disconnect seal and having to worrying about the intermediate shaft inside the axle with the potential of taking out the seals by the differential along with inserting the outer axle shaft.
@@OvensGarage mine is an 01.5 so at least it already has rear disc's, but I'm pretty sure from 94-02/03. They have a CAD like mine same for the Dana 44 on Jeeps for the front axle. So I had to send the intermediate Shaft through the axle tube and get to it through the actuator housing send it into the diff avoiding the seal through that miniscule housing. There is a bushing as well that the intermediate shaft rides on which is pretty stupid. Then the outer shaft has to go in while trying to avoid damaging the new seal inside the actuator housing.
Also on the meeting surfaces where the hub goes against the rotor you want to lightly scarf that off with a wiz wheel or something don’t remove any material what I mean I’m talking about from the hub itself just slightly clean rust off that way your rotor runs truer six in a row jim Again have a nice day
Am about to do front brakes on my 92 W250. In your video, you quote socket part # 7158, but that appears to have recessed studs. P/N 7217 has protruding studs which appears to be like the one you are showing. Am I mistaken. About to order parts. Thanks.
7158 is the correct one
@@OvensGarage thank you.
This is an old posting I just came up on my UA-cam search.
Man of this truck was in Minnesota The soon going to be rotted out body and everything.
Curious where you live unless you went and got this truck down south??
How do you know what type axle you have on your truck i.e. Dana 60 vs Dana 70, etc.?
It's in the factory service manual
What year is that truck if it is a 1990 1 1992 or a 1993 I've never seen one that took 1 ton 4 by 4 Budd wheel rotors
Just letting you know your a god send for this, thank you
Thanks man, appreciate it!
I’ve done a lot of bearings on 60’s 50’s 44’s I’ve never used torque specs. Just by feel. I should learn to read.
on my current Dana 60 I used stage 8 locking spindle nuts, I’ll never go back to stock there sweet.
Haha 😄 I should learn to do things by feel
Another Great Tutorial. Clear, concise and on point 👍👍👍
Thank you!
Great video - My question is now that it has been a year how do you like the rotors and pads - would you change anything? Thank you for your time.
The pads I got from my local parts store were junk. They squeal and squeak quite a bit. The rotors were fine though. The ones I linked from Amazon though I'm not sure about the quality I haven't tried them.
In the future when you put those back together put some grease under the heads of those little Allen screws that helps out a lot I have a first GEN dodge and that really helps a lot this is six in a row jim From Kennerdell Pennsylvania
I ended up putting some anti seize on them after I picked up some new stainless allen bolts from my local fastener store! They look way better in stainless too!
A true master mechanic once told me after you clean the bearings natural you look at the rollers on the outside but you look inside of the inner race you look at where the the rollers ride inside yeah that’s where you want to look for pets and things like that you rotated over real slow with a light on one side and you’re looking in the other is a six in a row jim from Kennerdell Pennsylvania by the way that mechanic I was telling you about he was a master at rebuilding Detroit Cummins cat engines transmissions for 18 wheeler‘s differentials he was a true master mechanic and all kind of other things he was good at so anyway take my word for it Bill actually was a true master all right have a good day
Thanks for the tip Jim!
Ok. So attempting to put my caliper and pads back on but there is a significant gap between the rotor and caliper bracket. I cannot get the pads in and I feel something isn’t right. It’s not possible I didn’t get everything seated is it!? What am I doing wrong!?
Did you make sure to put that clip in at the bottom of the pad?
@@OvensGarage I’m just stupid and had the caliper bracket and spindle swapped 🤣
@@hooper8935 oh lol
What service manual or mechanical books do you have on first gens
The factory service manual. If you join the 1st gen cummins Facebook group they have digital copies or you can buy them from 1st gen industries
A nice way to get the rear hub seal out is to first slide the hub out and get the front bearing out then re seat the hub, loosely thread the lock nut back on and pull the hub straight off. The nut will prevent the rear bearing from coming off and the bearing will force the seal out of the hub.
Neat idea! Haven't heard that one before.
This is the style they should've stuck to for the dana 60 on the 2nd gens it is the biggest pain in the ass dealing with the center axle disconnect seal and having to worrying about the intermediate shaft inside the axle with the potential of taking out the seals by the differential along with inserting the outer axle shaft.
I didn't realize those trucks were setup like that! Sounds like you could easily damage it that way.
@@OvensGarage mine is an 01.5 so at least it already has rear disc's, but I'm pretty sure from 94-02/03. They have a CAD like mine same for the Dana 44 on Jeeps for the front axle. So I had to send the intermediate Shaft through the axle tube and get to it through the actuator housing send it into the diff avoiding the seal through that miniscule housing. There is a bushing as well that the intermediate shaft rides on which is pretty stupid. Then the outer shaft has to go in while trying to avoid damaging the new seal inside the actuator housing.
Also on the meeting surfaces where the hub goes against the rotor you want to lightly scarf that off with a wiz wheel or something don’t remove any material what I mean I’m talking about from the hub itself just slightly clean rust off that way your rotor runs truer six in a row jim Again have a nice day
Good point, thanks!