Mercedes SL500 , R230 Accumulator Removal and Installation Front and Rear
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2016
- If your R230 Mercedes SL500 suffers from momentary ABC (Active Body Control) warnings when you go over bumps and you have a stiff suspension, it's likely that you will need to change the Accumulators or Nitrogen balls. relatively quick and simple change, make sure you have Pentosin to flush the system afterwards. This is a similar procedure on the SL500 and SL550.
In the Video I show the AGA Flush tool, but that is not needed. I also show the rear-front accumulator, but that wasn't needed either. The main accumulators were replaced in this video as they suffer the most stress and are prone to failure. Change them every 60k miles or so. It turns out the rear one was blown, after the change, the ride was 100%. - Авто та транспорт
I just finished replacing the two accumulators Dan replaced and have some notes to clarify some things users have been asking and how I dealt with what I ran into.
First, thanks Dan for posting this . It gave me the confidence to do this and save a couple of thousand dollars. It's really not that hard.
Notes:
On the front the video is pretty accurate. I had trouble starting the hydraulic line bolt that goes into the accumulator. I had to loosen the other end of the hose about 1/8 to 1/4 turn at the valve block to get slack in the line. After that it went right in. Also, try not to position your face right under the accumulator when you pull it off. Don't ask.
On the rear, ignore the video about removing the valve block. You need to disconnect the upper most 10mm nut on the bracket; it's the one with the rubber spacer and is perpendicular to the drive shaft. Under the car, about 8 inches from the outer edge is a rubber bracket that holds the four hydraulic lines in place and is wrapped in a two piece steel holder. This holder has one 8mm connector that holds it in place. At first I thought the bolt was accessed from inside the car, but that funky connector is just a custom 8mm nut. Undo it and the bracket pops open and remove half of it. That will let you pull out and then rotate the valve block/accumulator assembly down so you can remove stuff.
Reassembly of the rear is only tricky if you're a weakling like me and can't pull it far enough back to line up the bracket in its holder. I also needed another set of eyes for this step.
There is a pressure relief valve that uses an 11mm line wrench to relieve pressure on both the front and rear. Just have a tube and loosen for a couple of seconds. They point down and look like a brake caliper bleeder nut/bolt thingy. Do this before breaking any line open.
Depending on how you count there are three or four accumulators. The two big ones; one each front and rear. A "center" one in the rear assembly and some consider the pulsation damper an accumulator. I recommend replacing the two big ones and see if your issues go away. If not read up and see if you need to replace the other two or if the valves are your next likely issue. If you're tight on money I guess you could replace one at a time...
I needed to stop work after getting the car back together but before I flushed the fluid. I couldn't get the car off the jack until I added fluid and hit the car height button on the center console. Also noticed then that my car "jumped" up instead of doing the slow raise it did previously, so that's another clue you might need to perform this service.
Also, if you're going to all this work and have the resources, rebuilding the valve bodies would be a good thing to do since you have access to the valve bodies during the service. Get an O-ring set with the springs if you can find one still.
Make sure you keep the open end of the accumulator pointed up so you don't drop fluid everywhere.
Gonna tackle this once it cools down. You've given me the confidence to do this. Thanks!
Great! Have all parts on hand and take your time. Do it when you are not depending on the car for transportation in case you need to get more parts. Good Luck!
Thank you for making this video. It was so helpful.
Glad it helped, thanks!
Great video - thanks! I have an SL500 with 60Kmiles, so I am very interested.
Dan - I found I had to add about a pint of fluid despite no visible leaks. This makes me suspect the accumulators which may fill up with fluid as they fail. I AM VERY PLEASED THAT YOU DID NOT HAVE TO DISCONNECT THE HOSES TO GET OUT THE VALVE UNITS!
That gives me some confidence to tackle this job myself. My complaint is strictly the drop in the rear when parked a few days. No lights or messages yet. Most folks recommend replacing the valve blocks for this. Big, messy job. I'd rather start with the accumulators and go from there if necessary. Thanks again for posting.
I bought the disconnect tools from the dealer and they were not easy to use, I could not disconnect the lines as they are simple hand tools. The shops probably have something the provides more leverage. It's not the recommended way, but I had no choice but to change them without disconnecting the lines. Improved the ride significantly. I no longer have this vehicle, went back to BMW.
Did you forget the pulsation damper behind the front wheel? That is a very important accumulator too. You need two 24mm open ended wrenches to get it off.
I had changed that earlier.
I re-watched your video. Seems like the rear accumulator would be much easier than the front since it swings out. I'm thinking a long handle ratcheting box wrench would make getting that inside bottom nut off much easier. As I said before, I pulled the whole front valve block out to replace the o-rings on the valves and put on a new accumulator while I was at it. Do you still think the front was easier than the rear?
You also mentioned "special tools" to disconnect the hydraulic lines from the valve block, but it doesn't look like you needed to disconnect them. Did you?
Thx
Yes, looking back on it, I think the rear wasn't so bad. I did not have to use special tools (as I thought I needed) to disconnect the hydraulic lines. I have since sold the vehicle, so won't be making any more videos on this particular vehicle.
I bought an accumulator and removed the rubber dust cap but there is another white looking plug past the dust cap,will that have to be removed or is that part of the diaphragm?
Normally the diaphragm is black, but I guess it could be another color. If the rim of this white plug is outside of the accumulator, then you can remove it, if it is all within the body of the accumulator, then it's the diaphragm. Hope that helps.
Need help pls! If i change my rear accumilator do i have to take off the battery? How do u bleed the system if i change my accumilator do i need to bleed the system? How
You will need to bleed the system (anytime you break the lines by changing an accumulator) by raising and lowering the vehicle and bleed it per the instructions at the very end of the video. You have to have a decent amount of Pentosin on hand. Drive it around and then re-bleed just to make sure all air is out of the hydraulic system.
Everytime i hit bumb my dash said drive carefully red lights is this a sign of bad acumilator? Thx
Yes, that's what prompted me to change out the accumulators and it fixed the problem before I sold the car.
Hi Dan, my sl500 has whining noise comes from the abc pump, I just changed the abc pump but the noise is still there. The old one has no leak or anything but whenever I get into a bump, it shows red warning light. So do you think that's a accumilator problem?
I no longer have the car, but my warning light went off when I hit a bump and when I changed out the blown accumulator it worked perfectly. The noise thing is strange, make sure you have adequate levels of fluid and there is no blockage in the lines (this is not so easy to determine unless you are willing to blow out sections of line with compressed air. Good Luck.
Hi Khoi,
Sounds like the pulsation dampener is gone, mine has the same issue.
Check out this link for troubleshooting;
mercedes-abc-drive-carefully.blogspot.com.au/2014/08/overview-abc-system-isthe-key-part-of.html
Yes!
I’m getting the red ABC light and yesterday fluid was spewing from the resivour under the hood. Would that be accumulators or something worse?
If you did not overfill it, then something is forcing fluid out like a collapsed shock. The accumulators are probably not the issue if the diaphragm in the accumulator breaks, it actually consumes fluid and you'll have less fluid in your reservoir (not more.) I would look towards the shocks or the pump.
Dan Tsuchiya Thank you that’s what i was afraid of.
bit late to the party here. anyway, ABC light and fluid from reservoir can come from what some call an accumulator "burp". It's when the seal in the accumulator fails and the compressed nitrogen in the accumulator gets injected into the ABC system. Eventually the gas makes it way to the reservoir and forces the dipstick out.
I'm doing a front valve body overhaul at the moment (replacing the O-rings). Your video is timely as I'm hearing more and more that the accumulator should be replaced at around 60k miles. I got a new Corteco accumulator, but the existing one appears good. As you indicated in another post, Corteco is an OEM supplier to Mercedes and the part is made in Germany. I'll keep the "old" one as a spare for the rear if I need it in an emergency.So...why did you sell the SL500?
I purchased a first gen NSX, just wanted something that handled a little better. The R230's are a good value for the money, aside from the suspension maintenance :)
Hey i'm getting ready to do this, do i need to bleed some pressure out or something? Or just simply unscrew and screw the new ones in? On my LX470, i had to relieve the pressure first or else it would just shoot out when i removed the accumulators. Thanks so much for the video to help us out, Mercedes wanted a lot to change this.
There is some pressure in the line, but when you open up once of the lines it's not a big burst, it will leak out, but just have a rag around the fitting and a pan below to catch drips. Open the line at a junction before you remove the accumulator. Good Luck
Thank you for the prompt response. There's only 3 total right, one in the front and two in the rear? Are the rears the same way of getting them out, on another tutorial this dude removed the whole valve block assembly to get the rears out.
Removal of the valve block assembly is the proper route to go, but isn't necessary. I counted a total of three accumulators, but I don't have the car anymore and it could be different depending on years of production.
You never disconnected the lines/hoses in the rear. Is that correct? You did say however at 4:28 you were going to disconnect them. Thanks
@Dan Tsuchiya Dan, I know you sold the car. Was wondering what the smaller rear accumulator function was for. I'll figure it out tho soon enough. This I haven't read yet but will mercedes-abc-drive-carefully.blogspot.com/ BTW 2003 SL55 96,000 and a months worth of work!
Do you know by any chance how many accumulators are on a Mercedes Benz S55 AMG?
See This blog, it explains the system fully: mercedes-abc-drive-carefully.blogspot.com/2014/08/overview-abc-system-isthe-key-part-of.html . I had a total of three accumulators, but I only changed 2/3. I believe the design is the same for pre-2007 cars, so you should have the same number - 3.
There are two one in front and one rear. I am having both replaced at my mechanic now. 750.00
Hi, Any link available for the flush tool?
www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-active-body-control-flush-kit-aga-tools-0031846101, no longer have the vehicle, don't know if this is what you're looking for.
hi dan, are you 100% sure these corteco spheres are O.E for mercedes, i was led to believe it`s either febi or lemforder?
thanks
jerry
Febi (Belstein), Lemforder, and Corteco are all technically aftermarket manufacturers and they produce various parts for the OEM's. I was told by a Mercedes mechanic and what I have read online that the Corteco's are to OEM specs. If you find them from Febi and Lemforder, I am sure they will be fine, those are also great companies. The replacement solved my issue with my SL before I sold it.
when did Corteco become an oem supplier?
Through some replies, I see that Corteco is an aftermarket supplier of OEM quality parts. I believe the OEM accumulators were contracted to Febi-Bilstein.
I have a question. Where the third accumulator is located? Thank you fo answer...
There's usually one just before the pump, it's like the return line reservoir (like a pressure regulator) and is usually located right section of the car. If you follow the line back from the pump you'll find it. mbworld.org/forums/cl-class-w215/531451-location-rear-valve-block-please.html
@@SirFixAlotAutos Thanks
Hi Dan, How did you determinee that the 3rd one did not need changing?
It was trial and error, since the second one that just forward of the left rear wheel well was clearly blown (diaphragm punctured) I was "hoping" that was the culprit and buttoned it up and drove the car, it worked. I no longer have the car, but in these, I think they go one at a time. The right way to do it is to change them all as eventually, they will fail.
@@SirFixAlotAutos Thanks. Got the front one done yesterday. That the front bottom nut on the rear one is "a little hard to get to" is a bit of an understatement (LOL!). No idea how I'd get that nut back on the stud and the thread started, if/when I get it off. Any suggestions on how you accomplished it?
What tool did you use to remove the middle or the three lines to get to the 10mm nuts on the bottom?
Thank you
I used a 1/4" ratchet with extensions. I believe using a swivel head adapter inline on the ratchet extension helped get into the tighter spaces. Outside of sockets, box/open ended wrenches and screwdrivers, I didn't have to use any special tools. It's super tight in there and does take time to remove/install.
Dan Tsuchiya Thanks for the quick reply
So you did not have to remove one or any of the lines to get to the nuts? Because I thought in the video you mentioned you would have to remove the lines to get to the nuts
@@derick3482 Originally I thought that's what I needed to do but it turns out I was able to get to the fasteners without disconnecting a line (thank goodness) and swung the unit out to change the accumulator. At that point, you have to undo the lines, but it's momentary until you get the new accumulator in.
The frame plate supporting the accumulator and lines gets a little bent, but you just bend it back upon installation. Good Luck!
So how would you remove them
Even if it’s temporary
They’re not hex nuts
@@derick3482 At the accumulator, they should be detachable with normal tools. The lines themselves have line fittings, I did not touch those as I did not have a hydraulic hose crimping tool.
Hi fm Moscow, thanks fr video, how i see the accumulators are not original, can you say what kind you have install? Name, part number , thank you
Corteco is the brand. www.google.com/search?q=Corteco+2203270115&oq=Corteco+2203270115&aqs=chrome..69i57.4469j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Corteco makes the replacement for the different accumulators. Febi also makes an alternative. If you order the accumulators from the Dealer, I believe they will source Corteco. Good Luck!
Dan Tsuchiya thank you bro!
Interesting as I thought an accumulator was to hold pressure on the suspension to avoid leakdown when the car isn't running
jim dandy that would be the abc “valve block”. It is four solenoids. Mercedes doesn’t service them they just take them out and replace. Very expensive. There are kits on the market now and videos here that explain how to rebuild. I did both of mine on my CL600
GOD BLESS YOU ALWAYS! AMEN!. If the spark plug is dirty with oil on the thread, would it be good to change the cap of the valve gasket cap, in My BMW?
x5 E53 3.0 6L Gasoline, is from 2002.
Thanks Very Much.
You are commenting in the wrong video as this is for a Mercedes. To answer your question, the oil on the threads is probably from oil leaking down from the valve cover gasket, just clean that up with a towel and then determine later where it's coming from. It's doubtful it's coming from the cap, unless the rubber gasket is missing
Do not excuse me, I understand that your video belongs to a Mercedes Benz, What happens is that I am looking for your videos of European vehicles, since I see few of the BMW X5 and I like to talk to you, since I have solved many problems, in which I thank you very much for this way.
GOD BLESS YOU ALWAYS! AMEN!. Good afternoon. I explain to you that I found the fault that causes vibration in my BMW x5, is that the cardan shaft support is broken, I realized when changing the fuel filter, I am glad to have communication with you, it made me methodical, my area It is Industrial Mechanics, and your knowledge helps me, Thank you very much.
You didnt show anything from the front
Yeah, the front one I completed before the video, it's behind that panel in the wheel well that I show at the beginning. The real problem was the one just behind the door (rear wheel-well.) No longer have the car (and will never own one again) so no way of showing this.
@@SirFixAlotAutos was is that bad? :-) i own one as well .. i feel your pain .. but the car is really nice to drive ..
@@hcbotje you just can't be scared of it breaking and it's a wonderful car!!